Flora y Fauna de Zapallar

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    A NATURAL TREASURE

    THE ZAPALLAR FOREST

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    Aleander on Holdt, 1809

    Frierich Gerg Weitsch

    Charles Darn

    I FoRmERLyAdmIREdHUmboLdT,I NoWALmoSTAdoRE HIm.Charles Darn, letter written in 1832

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    Althugh the each ha their uniue stles an ifferent

    persnalities, the explrers Alexaner Vn Hult an

    Charles darwin represent tw inuential gures f science.bth were gifte with the ailit an willingness t unerstan

    the natural wrl. overcing enrus challenges in their

    vages, the reache prfun an revlutinar cnclusins

    regaring the cnnectivit f natural phenena. darwin

    cnsiere Hult ne f the greatest scientic explrers

    f his tie, an freuentl referre t hi in his jurnals an

    persnal letters. Hults explratin f the lanscape,

    as well as his writing stle, inspire darwin t eark n his

    vage n the beagle. He als prvie hi with the asic

    guielines n what an hw t serve an recr his nings.

    Hult an darwin were naturalists whse inuence can

    e seen thrughut the scpe f science. It is interesting that

    each f their respective wrks have, as their rigin, a vage f

    iscver that tk place uring their uth.

    Hult is ften cnsiere the father f eclg. He was the

    rst t take n the stu f the relatinship etween rganiss

    an their envirnent. Hults travels were well thught

    ut an prepare while darwin encuntere an unexpecte

    challenges an setacks. In these vages, the cast f Chile was

    f ke iprtance fr prviing evience that supprte their

    future theries aut the links etween species istriutin an

    natural phenena. Hult was ne f the rst naturalistst relate the earths phsical phenena t species istriutin

    when he state:

    In the stu f phsical phenena we n the nlest

    an st relevant result t e a knwlege f the chain

    f life, which all natural frces are intercnnecte an

    utuall epenent.

    The Peruvian current was nae after Hult, wh escrie

    its extrarinar iprtance fr castal ecsstes f Suth

    Aerica. This cean current is the ain suject f a fascinating

    letter Hult wrte t Charles darwin in 1839:

    I wul have like t talk t u re aut the cl water

    cean current that rers the cast, n which I pnere

    s ften, ecause I elieve it ies the cliate f the

    cast. A cl water river runs f r the Sutheast an hits

    the cast f Chile ging twars the suth an nrth f the

    Chns alng the Peruvian cast.

    TwO SOuTHERN ExPEDiTiONSA VISIoNARy ANd HIS mENToR

    07

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    The Hult current appeare illins f ears ag, when,

    wing inertia arun Antarctica, the curse f these waters

    suffere a nal isruptin. As the Suth Aerican cntinent

    eerge, a eep rige egan t fr n the cean tt alng

    the Pacic cast f Suth Aerica that ene up eviating

    the current nrthwars reaching the Galapags Islans. The

    arine tt that rers the cntinent has an epth

    variatins, which generates a cnvectin actin that serves as

    a ule current, enaling the Hult current t e self-

    sustaine. When the current nall reaches the Galapags, it

    turns westwars, an ens up scattering its waters thrughut

    the Plnesian Islans.

    The cliate f the regin f Valparais is inuence the

    current, which als ecisivel affects the cliate f the entire

    Chilean castline. man specialize haitats thrughut Chile

    we their existence t this phenenn.

    A COLD wATER RivERTHE HUmboLdT CURRENT

    Las Docas each, Reon of valparaso Pht: Rrig mraga Z.

    USAr

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    uPwELLiNgSA CoNSTANT SoURCE oF NoURISHmENT

    Upwellings are ascening currents that carr water fr the

    epth f the cean t the surface. The teperature an salinit

    f cean waters have an essential effect n its ensit an create

    ense water ies in specic places. These waters are rich in

    nutrients, aking the sink t the tt f the cean, t e

    then extene twars ther latitues cean currents. In 1839,

    Hult utline an explanatr echanis aut the rise f

    eep cean r water - the upwellings - which wul asicall

    explain the wa the Hult current perates n the western

    cast f Suth Aerica.

    The Antarctic waters f the Hult current cntain an

    extrarinaril rich ensit f planktn, transfring these

    waters int ne f the st iprtant shing gruns n the

    planet, thus aking the currents waters an iprtant ecnic

    resurce fr Chile, Ecuar an Peru.

    JPL

    /NASA

    bll KelpDurvillaea antarctica

    Pht: Karl yunis K.

    11

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    A bOuNTiFuL OCEANoRIGIN oF bIoLoGICAL RICHNESS ANd dIVERSITy

    one f the st ilgicall rich areas f the Chilean cean is

    lcate etween Valparais an Ls mlles. This is ue ainl

    t the inuence f the Hult current an t the utstaning

    tpgraph f the cean r an the castline in this part f

    Chile. The ain water ies an the irectin in which the

    currents w have a raatic inuence n the istriutin f the

    varius arine species.

    A ra range f li ving an nn-living cean resurces interrelate

    in varius ecsstes alng this cast. The waters, which are

    rich in inerals an rganic atter, allw the existence f a

    iverse arra f arine life.

    The Hult current als rings with it the fgs that cnense

    ver the sea an castal hills. A few natural arriers alng the

    central cast f Chile allw these rning ists t precipitate.

    The terrestrial cunities f the castal hills f the Valparais

    regin f Chile als we their existence t the Hult current,

    since it allws fr the cnensatin f the sea ist against the

    steep slpes f the Castal muntain range.bottle-nosed Dolphn Tursiops truncatusPht: Rrig mraga Z.

    13

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    FOgNURTURING THE FoREST

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    Prevailing wins fr the Pacic cean ve twars the cast,

    precipitating as the pass ver the cler waters f the Hult

    current, thus prucing a ense laer f fg knwn as the

    Caanchaca. These air asses, laen with isture are frce

    t ascen ver the castal terrain, which causes the t cl

    at an altitue f apprxiatel 400 eters ave sea level. This

    phenenn creates a icrcliate in the high castal hills f

    Zapallar ue t an arupt interrupti n f the theral inversin levels

    as the hit the castal cliffs, resulting in cnensatin thrugh

    the frests fg-catching effect. This pruces precipitatin

    siilar in vlue t thse f the Suthern teperate rainfrest

    regins, an wul explain wh ense frests are fun at higher

    elevatins. Fg is ifferent t rain water in that it cntains nitrgen

    cpuns, sulfur, carn an, f curse, sea salt, prucing

    relict frests with hrphilus characteristics plant species with

    a ttal epenence n the sea-ist.

    15

    KarlyunisK.

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    SofaAranet

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    19

    THE RELiCT FORESTA WITNESS oF CHANGE

    In spite f scarce precipitatin, the evelpent an survival

    f the castal frests f Chiles meiterranean ecregin is

    pssile thanks t the cntriutin f isture cntent fr fg.

    Castal ist lwn the win is trappe the vegetatin in

    iense uantities, fring large rps n the fliage, which

    then escen t the frest r. This interrelatin etween the

    fliage an the sea ist is what sustains the frest f Zapallar

    an the assciate ilgical i versit.

    This uniue ecsste cntains species that ppulate vast

    areas f this ecregin when rainfall was far re aunant. The

    successin f glaciatins that tk place uring the Pleistcene

    an Plicene separate the frests f Zapallar, Santa Ins in

    Pichiangui, an Alts e Talina in Fra Jrge, fr the rest f

    the frests f the Chilean suthern zne. These frests are ta

    a living renant f what a vast frest ecsste use t lk like

    in the central parts f Chile thusans f ears ag. Ang the

    tree species that have survive fr pre-glacial ties are the

    olivill (Aextoxicon punctatu), the Canel (driys winteri), the

    Petra (myrceugenia exsucca), an varius fern species. These

    plants fre the tanical funatin f the priar frest

    that suseuentl unerwent clnizatin certain xerphle

    species like the Peu (Crataegus onogyna), the bellt

    (beilschieia iersii), an certain mrtaceae.

    It was recentl iscvere that the olivill is the nl species

    in its fail, inicating that ther eers f the Aextxicn

    fail existe in the past; hence the olivill is a living fssil that

    pral evlve in the central regin f Chile.KarlyunisK.

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    01

    CATCHiNg THE FOgAdAPTATIoN FoR SURVIVAL

    oasis fg-frest ecsstes nl exist in a few select lcatins

    in the wrl. These uniue an fragile haitats cntain ra an

    fauna with high levels f eneis. The castal frest f Zapallar

    cntains trees with large canpies an entwine ranches,

    allwing isture t e trappe fliage an ss cvere

    ark. The water rplets slie wn the trunks an leaves an

    fall t the grun, where the nutrient rich water is use a

    ultitue f plants that live within this frest ecsste.

    KarlyunisK.

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    These ist frest ecsstes shelter a ense unerstre

    cntaining an aunance f vines an large variet f wering

    species, an f the eneic t Chile. The presence f epiphtes

    cvering tree trunks is ne f the ain ifferences etween the

    castal fg frest an ther rier tpes f frest haitat fun in

    the meiterranean ecregin f Chile.

    The Zapallar frest prvies sustenance an shelter fr iverse

    species f insects, irs, aals, an aphiians. Althugh

    there is n evience f its presence nwaas, a rare aphiian,

    knwn as darwins Frg (Rhinoera arwinii), existe in the

    frest f Zapallar, an is nw presue lcall extinct. Speciensf this eleatic species f the teperate rainfrests f the

    suthern regin f Chile were cllecte in 1861 an nw elng t

    the Haurg museu.

    THE uNDERSTOREyA mINUTE TREASURE

    KarlyunisK.

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    01

    The particular ecsste that survives in these ist frests f

    central Chile is the ieal haitat fr a iversit f extrarinar

    species f ra an fauna. Ang the irs that currentl well

    in castal frests, there are an which are characteristic f the

    Valivian frest fun in suthern Chile, ipling that th are ver

    siilar as regars their feeing stcks, insects an wil fruits.

    Several ntale an enangere irs fun in Zapallar inclue,

    the Thrn-Taile Raait (Spinicaua spinicaua), the des murs

    Wiretail (Sylviorthorhynchus esursii), the Trcaza r Chilean

    Pigen (Zenaia auriculata), an the Rufus-Legge owl (Strix

    rupes).

    The mare e la Culera (Acanthinera cuingi), ne f the

    wrls largest eetles, can als e fun in these ws.

    The Hult penguin (Spheniscus huolti), a species fun

    nl within the waters f the Hult current, inhaits the casts

    f Chile an Peru. Surrune cacti, the istinct characteristic

    f the Hult Penguin is that it nests an repruces in ht

    meiterranean cliate far fr the Antarctic ice. The igrate t

    the suth uring the El Ni phenenn, when war waters

    ivert the Hult current, frcing the t aann their

    repructive clnies in Peru an the nrth f Chile in search

    f f fun in iprtant cln sites in central Chile, this factexeplies the iprtance f these suthern repructive sites

    fr their survival. one such site is the Islan f the Penguins

    lcate in frnt f Cachagua each.

    FLORA AND FAuNAUNIqUE SPECIES

    Holdt Penn

    Spheniscus humboldtiPht: Rrig mraga Z.

    24

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    In 1920, Feeric Jhw escrie at least six plant species which

    are nw lcall extinct in Zapallar. Ta, ang the species n the

    enangere list we n the bellt el Nrte, a species eneic

    t the zne an which has een eclare a Chilean Natural

    mnuent. The ecrease in istriutin an genetic iversit f

    ault speciens, alng with external factrs such as the reval

    f rganic atter fr the frest r, estructin f vegetatin,

    ersin, cpetitin fr intruce species an vergrazing,

    have weakene the recver f this iprtant tree species. The

    frest f Zapallar is ne f the few places where u can n the

    Nrthern bellt in Chile. It is istriute unevenl inhaiting

    itpes that are re hui ue t the presence f grun water

    an castal fg.

    Ta, the rphlg f the bellt fruit prevents its natural

    ispersal. Se scientists elieve that in prehistric ties it was

    sprea extinct ega fauna such as egatheres, astns,

    an pre-histric hrses that fe n its fruit.

    Anther eneic species f central Chiles castal frests

    is the passinwer (Passiora pinnatistipula). In Chile, this

    agnicentl eautiful vine a nl e fun in Pichianguis

    Santa Ins hills, as well as in the frests f Zapallar, preferringareas where the frest canp is re pen. The passira is the

    nl Chilean species f trpical rigin, with an eile err siilar

    t that f the passin fruit.

    Passora Passifora pinnatistipula Pht: Karl yunis K.

    27

    belloto del NorteBeilschmiedia miersiiPht: Karl yunis K.

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    01

    In the r znes, an species f plants have evelpe the sae

    characteristics f plants assciate with siilar meiterranean

    ecsstes thrughut the wrl, prucing leaves an trunks

    cvere with a laer f wax that prevent ehratin. T he tpical

    ara f the Zapallar frest ces ainl fr the perfue f

    the Peu an bl trees. This perfue can e fun in the

    ils an waxes in their leaves, which help t liit ehratin.

    It is ecause f this feature that the general frest tpe f the

    Zapallar area is knwn as a castal esclerphlic frest. The

    ter esclerphlic ces fr the Greek ters scler (har)

    an phlln (leaf). These r haitats are als clnize therr-ste plants such as the Chagual,(Puya chilensis), the Tes

    Cacti (Chloris chilensis), the bl (Peuus olus), an the

    mlle (Schinus latifolius).

    Eriosyce subgibbosa

    Pht: Karl yunis K.

    28

    Cysthanchesgrandiora

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    man plants aapt t rughts string water in their stes (cacti)

    r within thick, esh leaves (succulents like the Csthanches).

    Cysthanches grandiora

    Pht: Karl yunis K.

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    Orchd

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    Anther wa t survive a rught is t stre isture in succulent

    rts, as rchis an alstrerias , r in unergrun stes

    (uls), as the native wilwers aaucas r auiles . The

    presence f these kins f aaptatins in lcal ra is a sign f

    the presence f a meiterranean cliate, eaning cl, rain

    winters, an ht, r suers. Such cnitins frce plants t

    epl their grwth an wering in earl springtie in rer t

    fen ff i-suer rughts.

    It is in this seasn f plent, wering an renewal that the

    Zapallar frest eces vital fr varius species f igratingirs such as the Giant Huingir. This eautiful ir, the

    largest huingir in the wrl, is thught t igrate efre

    the winter nths t the blivian ungas.

    OrchdChloraea lamellata

    Pht: Karl yunis K.

    AacaRhodophiala chilensis Pht: Karl yunis K.

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    gant Hnrd

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    01

    Patagona gigas

    Pht: Rrig mraga Z.

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    ChnnoL t f li

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    The Chungung r Lntra felina is the nl species f the Lntra

    genus fun exclusivel in arine haitats. It uses castlines that

    exten apprxiatel 30 eters inlan an 100 t 150 eters ut

    t sea. This anial inhaits arine areas expse t strng ties

    an wins. It prefers rck casts that cntain caverns that reain

    ave sea level at high tie, an epens n large seawee es

    that ffer an aunant an vast iversit f pre species such as

    ussels, clas an sea urchins. The Zapallar a ffers an ieal

    haitat fr the Chungung, which can ften e seen alng the

    rck shres.In rer t eat the shellsh n which it ainl fees, the Chungung

    takes a stne, swis n its ack, an uses its paws t reak pen

    the shells hitting the with the stne.

    Lontra felina

    Pht: Rrig mraga Z.

    37

    THE PLACE

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    In 1846, Francisc Javier ovalle acuire the Catapilc estate via

    a fail auctin. back then, the estate aste the sae surface

    that Zapallar Cunt has ta. ovalle was arrie t Isael Vicua

    Aguirre, the elest aughter f the estates frer wner, lieral

    plitician an Presient f Chile, Francisc Ran Vicua.

    The new wner cntriute great nais an prgress t the

    estate, uiling the Catapilc a, ang an ther wrks. The

    reservir was the rst f its kin in Suth Aerica, an enale

    the irrigatin f large tracks f farlan. T transprt the ever-increasing pructin f grains ut f the zne, ovalle purchase

    a sall steaship an uilt a ule-trail cnnecting the rete

    cve f Zapallar t agricultural lans lcate several iles inlan,

    transfring Zapallar a int a sall prt use exclusivel fr the

    estates pructin.

    one f thse ras, esigne in 1860 the Geran engineer

    Ter Schit, was laele El Sell. It egan in the farlans

    f Catapilc, near the reservir, cntinuing ue West thrugh the

    area knwn as La Ceniza, till it reache Zapallar a. This trail

    was use fr an ears as a transprt rute eans f rves

    f ules that crsse Zapallar frest, up until then, an unspile

    wilerness. Cal was later extracte fr the frest slw-urning the w f the frest in large rick vens, an an hills

    that surrune the each were swn, thus replacing fragile native

    haitat with agricultural els.

    one f the wners 14 ffspring, n olegari ovalle Vicua,

    was Zapallars funer. Since his earl chilh, olegari ha

    fallen in lve with the Catapilc Estate. Upn the eath f his

    parents, he inherite an iprtant part f the riginal estate

    calle Cachagua. After a trip t Eurpe, olegari ecie t

    estalish a castal resrt twn an selecte the eautiful cvef Zapallar fr this twnship. Up until then, Zapallar ha nl

    een enje his fail an the estate wrkers. His riginal

    esign, which still exists, sprang fr his in. His riginal

    plan preserve the ravines, cnserving the as pulic parkwas

    an estalishe walking paths in these areas s that the huses

    f the twnship ha access t the seasie an eaches.

    The rst suerhuse was uilt in 1892, an the fllwing ear

    an failies f Geran rigin, incluing olegaris acuaintance

    dr. Feeric Jhw, ecae the rst resients. All f these fun ingfailies were instantl ewitche the eaut f the new village.

    It was in this peri that the prfun frienship etween olegari

    an Feeric egan.

    THE PLACEZAPALLAR

    Hstorc Zapallar, crca 1896 Gariel Rrguez - Zapallar Cunt Archive

    Don Federco Joho and others lean for an ecrson on horseack

    Gariel Rrguez - Zapallar Cunt Archive

    3938

    EARLy CONSERvATiONiSTS

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    EARLy CONSERvATiONiSTSTWo FRIENdS, A VISIoNARy ANd HIS TEACHER

    Feeric Jhw vn bielher was rn in Geran in 1859,

    an later hire the Gvernent f Chilean Presient Js

    manuel balacea in 1888, ue t his excellence as a teacher

    f cheistr, tan an zlg. Feeric was a wise naturalist,

    an a renwne prfessr an scientist. Chile is i nete t hi

    fr the creatin f the Peaggical Institute, which ffere its

    teachings t hunres f future prfessrs, as well as executing

    a vast prtfli f valuale scientic research.

    The frienship f these tw en an their share lve fr

    Zapallar gave rise t the rst cnservatin initiative invlving theagnicent frest f Zapallar. Wrrie the visile evastatin

    f the surruning hills, olegari aske Feeric what cul

    e ne t restre the natural lanscape. Jhw tl hi t

    nthing at all, save fr taking his hers awa fr the, s that

    the natural vegetatin cul urish.

    once olegari passe awa, Feeric eicate an iprtant

    part f his last ears t an exhaustive research f the Cachagua

    Estates ra, a task that later ecae his psthuus wrk:

    Flra e las plantas vasculares e Zapallar (diversit f

    Vascular Plants in Zapallar.) The k was re-eite in 2007, with

    the help f his gransn, dr. Juan Carls Jhw. Ta there is a

    new generatin f cnservatinists an resients inspire the

    wrk olegari an Feeric. The frests f Zapallar, their raan fauna, are a natural treasure that an aspire t preserve.

    This prject is citte t the estalishent f scientic an

    technical research eneting the cnservatin f the Zapallar

    frest, an fsters the participatin f experts capale f sustaining

    effrts aie at awakening in chilren, ungsters, an aults an

    awareness, respect an harnius cexistence with ur naturalwrl. Actins such as aviing ver-grazing, as Feeric Jhw

    suggeste ver a hunre ears ag, as well as restring native

    haitat, cntrlling extic species, i pleenting ersin cntrl,

    preventing frest res, esigning an aintaining apprpriate

    hiking trails an fstering an unerstaning f the value f the

    lcal lanscape, can ensure that future generatins enj urshare treasure. It is ur hpe that ur cllective actins will

    enale the Zapallar frest cnservatin prject t serve as an

    exaple f effective private lan cnservatin in Chile.

    Olearo Oalle and Federco Joho

    Archive f Juan Carls Jhw an the Zapallar Cunt Archive

    Zapallar n the old das Gariel Rrguez - the Zapallar Cunt Archive

    4140

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    bibLiOgRAPHy

    CAST AwAy THE EviL iDEA

    OF bECOmiNg A POmPOuS viLLA

    uNDER NO CiRCumSTANCE ACCEPT THiS

    TO PuRSuE bEAuTy TiLL TuRNiNg ugLy

    LET THE NEwCOmER ALwAyS SEE

    THiS mOuNTAiN CORNER

    wHOSE FEET ARE bATHED by THE SEA

    wHOSE HAiR iS mADE OF FORESTS

    AND LET iT bE wHAT iS AND wAS

    PART bOAT, PART REFugE.

    Javier Prez ovalle, 1930

    42

  • 8/12/2019 Flora y Fauna de Zapallar

    23/23

    The forests of Zapallar, Cachaa, and Cataplco ake p the ost alale resere of

    nate ora n Chles central coastlne. Ther ast oderst constttes a loal patron

    classed as a oderst hotspot Conseraton internatonal (mers), and ths adopted

    the Chlean goernent as one of ts prort stes for doestc conseratonst efforts.

    Corporacn bosqes de Zapallar as to nole nehors and ftre eneratons n the care

    and preseraton of these alale eaples of medterranean ecosstes, orkn ratefll

    and respectfll th ts oners and enjon the enets that the zones olocal and scenc

    oderst offers ts ctzens.

    its rst oard s ade p Jan Carlos Joho, Dense Astoreca, Lsa

    Ezarre, Rodro Crz, Jos mel Torrco, Federco Rneln and Deo Larran.

    The pulicatin f this k was ae pssile thanks t thespnsrship f The Nature Cnservanc, Crpracin Paruespara Chile an Crpracin bsues e Zapallar.

    Tet rtten Karl yunis Kretscher, Juan Carls Jhw,Feeric Ringeling an Victria AlnsDesn, prodcton and prntn: Caren mntt an Cca LnTranslaton: macarena Palins an Karl yunis KretscherCorreccn de estlo:Eugenia FernnezPrnted oGRAmA

    2009 The Nature CnservancPrinte in Chile-ISbN 978-956-332-086-2

    .osqesdezapallar.cl

    Thank u t dr. Juan Carls Jhw, Feeric Ringeling, Js Antni Varas an the cunit f Zapallar fr their supprt in the preservatin f their natural treasure.Crpracin bsues e Zapallar seeks t invlve neighrs an future generatins in caring fr an preserving this valuale meiterranean ecsste in Chile, wrkingwith gratitue an respect in cnjunctin with the lanwners.