Fine Cooking - Breakfast Recipes

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    Taunton Product #052048www.finecooking.com

    Breakfast

    HOW TO MAKE

    The Perfect OTHEBEST

    OF

    French toast

    chocolatesandwiches!p. 93

    Easy Ideas forBusy Mornings

    88Delicious Recipesfor everyones favoriteanytimemeal!

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    recipe ad

    Getting the mostfrom our recipes

    How to follow a

    recipe

    Beforeyoustart,read

    therecipefrombegin-

    ningtoendsothereare

    nosurprises.

    Beforeactuallystarting

    tocookorbake,gather

    allthenecessaryingre-

    dientsandequipment.

    Preparetheingredients

    accordingtothedirec-

    tionsintheingredient

    list(seeWatchthose

    modifiersatrightfor

    moreonthis).

    Fordetermining

    doneness,alwaysrely

    firstontherecipes

    sensorydescriptor,such

    ascookuntilgolden

    brown.Considerany

    timesgiveninarecipe

    merelyasaguidefor

    whentostartchecking

    fordoneness.

    ingredients

    Unlessotherwisenoted,

    assumethat:

    butterisunsalted.

    eggsarelarge

    (about2oz.each).

    flourisunbleached

    all-purpose(dontsift

    unlessdirectedto).

    sugariswhitegranulated.

    freshherbs,greens,and

    lettucesarewashedanddried.

    garlic,onions,andfresh

    gingerarepeeled.

    watcH tHose

    modifiers

    Arecipeingredientlist

    containswordssuchas

    dicedandchopped

    thattellyouhowto

    prepareeachingredient

    fortherecipe,butwhat

    youmaynotrealizeisthat

    theplacementofthese

    preparationmodifiers

    intheingredientlineisas

    importantasthemodifier

    itself.Take,forexample,

    thefollowingtwosimilar

    linesthatyoumayseeina

    recipeingredientlist:

    1 cup rice, cooked

    1 cup cooked rice

    Thefirstlineistellingyou

    totake1cupofriceand

    cookit;thesecondline

    iscallingfor1cupofrice

    thathasalreadybeen

    cooked.Thedifference

    betweenthetwoisabout

    2cupsofcookedrice,

    andthatcanmakeabig

    differenceintheoutcome

    ofarecipe.

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    The allure of cooking in cast iron goes beyond its

    glossy good looks. Cast iron heats up slowly, but it holds

    heat well. Because its thick, cast iron heats evenly, with-

    out hot spots, which suits it or cooking at high heat.

    And well-seasoned cast iron is truly stickproo and easy

    to clean.

    But cast iron does have a reputation, mostly by those

    who havent cooked with it, o being fnicky. Most prob-

    lems arise rom not seasoning the pan correctly or rom

    not maintaining the fnish, both o which are actually

    easy to do. Heres a primer on how cast iron works and

    how to care or it to ensure years o pleasurable use.

    Season it right

    New cast-iron pans need to be seasoned with oil to

    keep oods rom sticking. For the initial seasoning, most

    manuacturers recommend coating the pan with a bit o

    shortening and baking or an hour or more. Heres how:

    Heat the oven to 350F. Meanwhile, heat your pan on

    the stovetop until hot. With a thick wad o paper towels,

    spread 1 to 2 teaspoons lard, bacon grease, or solid

    vegetable shortening all over the inside and outside o the

    pan. Apply a very thin coating o attoo much grease

    and youll end up with a gummy residue in your pan.

    Put the pan upside down on the center rack o the

    oven or 1 hours. (Slide a baking sheet or piece o alu-

    minum oil onto the rack beneath the pan to catch anydrips.) Turn o the heat and let the pan sit in the oven

    until cool. The pan wont be deep black right away but

    will develop a dark patina with regular use.

    Preserve the patina

    Once the pan is seasoned, its quite simple to maintain.

    Some say that washing cast iron destroys the season-

    ing; these olks preer to just wipe the pan clean, using

    coarse salt as an abrasive or cooked-on residue. From

    our experience, though, thats oten not enough. So we

    wash cast iron with soap and water and immediately

    towel it dry. Next, set it on a burner on medium heat

    until the pan is hot and completely dry. While the pan

    is still hot, use a paper towel to spread a thin coating ovegetable oil on the interior. With this extra attention,

    cast iron stays perectly seasoned and dry.

    breakfast b

    Cast-Iron CookwareFrom sausage to eggs to pancakes, a cast-iron skillet is essential

    to making great breakfast food. Heres how to care for it.

    Cast-iron coo

    is inexpensiv

    cooks well, a

    last for gener

    f inecook ing .com 1 3

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    equipment

    Juice It UpThe easiest way to get your daily fruit is by drinking it.

    Heres a look at how to make the freshest juice.

    The intense flavor o resh juice, whether squeezed rom a

    peach or a Bellini or rom a lemon or a salad dressing makes

    a world o diference. The world o equipment to help you get

    at a ruit or vegetables juice is complex, ranging rom one-

    piece manual reamers to involved electric countertop models.

    Deciding what to buy depends on how oten you need juice,

    and how much. I you like to drink reshly squeezed juice

    every day, youll want a diferent juicing method than i you

    just need a teaspoonul or so or recipes once in a while.

    Heres your guide to the diferent types o juicers and how

    to buy one that suits your needs.

    fuit factTo gt th most juic,

    softn citus fuit bypssing down on it

    with you palm andolling it back and foth

    along a counttop.This wakns cll walls

    and maks it asi toxtact th juic.

    14 B r e T 2 0 1 1

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    18 B R E A K F A S T 2 0 1 1

    sparkling pomegranatecocktailOne bottle of sparkling wine is enough to mak

    about six cocktails. You can easily double or

    triple this recipe.

    Serves 6

    1 cup plus 2 Tbs. unsweetened pure

    pomegranate juice(such as Pom brand), chilled

    3 Tbs. sugar syrup (recipe below), chilled

    1 750ml bottle dry sparkling wine or

    Champagne, chilled

    In a small pitcher, stir the pomegranate juice

    and sugar syrup. Fill each flute about one-thir

    full with the pomegranate mixture. Top with th

    sparkling wine, dividing it evenly among the flu

    Serve immediately.

    sugar syrupYields a scant cup, enough to make about

    15 cocktails

    cup granulat ed sugar

    cup wate r

    In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water

    to a boil over high heat, stirring until the sugar

    dissolved. Boil for 1 minute. Let cool and then

    refrigerate until ready to use.masala chaiIf you find typical coffeehouse chai overpowering, try

    this version of the well-known Indian spiced tea. Its

    judicious use of spices results in a kinder, gentler drink.

    Yields 3 cups; serves 4

    1 Tbs. loose black tea, such asEnglish Breakfast or Darjeeling

    6 green cardamom pods, gently

    crushed

    5 whole cloves

    1 small cinnamon stick (about

    1 inches long)

    tsp. black pepper corns

    cup whole milk

    2 Tbs. granulated sugar; more to taste

    In a small saucepan, bring 3 cups water to a boil.

    Remove from the heat and add the tea, cardamom,

    cloves, cinnamon, and peppercorns. Let steep uncov-ered for 4 minutes, stirring once or twice. Pour through

    a fine strainer set over a bowl, rinse the saucepan, and

    pour the tea back into the pan. Add the milk and sugar

    and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add more sugar to

    taste. Reheat if necessary over low heat, but dont boil.

    Serve hot.

    BREAKFAST DRINKS

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    28 B f 2 0 1 1

    Bread Basket

    his classic yeast bread, rich

    and golden with butter and

    eggs, is a breakast staple.

    Yields 6 three-inch brioches

    tte

    lb. 2 oz. (4 cups)unbleached all-purpose flour

    1/3 cup gran ulated sugar

    oz. (4 tsp.) activedry yeast, preferablyRed Star brand

    oz. (2 tsp.) table salt,plus a pinch for theegg wash

    4 large eggs, at roomtemperature, plus 2 largeeggs and large egg yolkfor the egg wash

    4 oz. ( cup) whole milk, at

    room temperature

    8 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter,cut into 6 pieces, slightlysoftened; more for thepans

    M

    In a stand mixer itted with the

    paddle attachment, mix the

    lour, sugar, yeast, and salt on

    low speed until well combined.

    dd 4 o the eggs and the milk

    and continue mixing on low

    speed to combine. s soon

    as the dough starts to clump

    together, remove the paddle

    attachment and attach the

    dough hook. (here will still be

    unmixed egg and lour in the

    bowl.) Mix on medium speed

    or 2 minutes. Using a plastic

    dough scraper or strong

    plastic spatula, scrape the

    bowl and hook. Continue to

    mix until the dough is irm and

    elastic, about 2 minutes more.

    he dough may stick to the

    hook at this point, but thats

    O. crape the dough o the

    hook again.

    With the mixer on medium-low speed, add hal o the

    butter, a ew pieces at a time.

    crape down the bowl and

    dough hook, and remove the

    dough hook. Give the dough a

    ew kneads by hand in the

    bowl, repeatedly olding the

    dough over on itsel, to help

    incorporate the butter.

    eattach the dough hook a

    add the remaining butter, a

    pieces at a time, mixing on

    medium-low speed. Once a

    o the butter has been add

    increase the mixer speed t

    medium and mix or 4

    minutes. crape the dough

    hook and the sides and

    bottom o the bowl. Mix aga

    until the dough is smooth, s

    and shiny, about 4 minutes

    more. Youll hear the dough

    slap against the sides o the

    bowl when its ready. (I you

    kitchen is warm, the dough

    may seem too loose at this

    point. esist the urge to ad

    extra lour, or the brioche mbe tough.)

    L RS

    Use a plastic dough scrape

    or a spatula to turn the dou

    out onto a clean, very lightl

    loured work surace. he

    dough will be very moist.

    nead it by hand a ew time

    and then orm it into a ball

    by olding the sides into the

    middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 ocl

    flip the dough over, place

    your palms on either side o

    the dough, and tuck it undeitsel, turning the dough as

    you tuck to orm a loose ba

    with a smooth top . ranse

    the dough, smooth side up, t

    clean large bowl. Cover loose

    with plastic and let the dough

    in a warm, drat-ree spot unt

    doubled in size, about 1 hour

    L RS

    Use the dough scraper or

    spatula to turn the dough o

    smooth top down, onto a v

    lightly loured work surace

    gain, orm it into a ball byolding the sides into the

    middle at 12, 3, 6, and 9 ocl

    flip the dough over, place

    your palms on either side o

    the dough, and tuck it unde

    itsel, turning the dough as y

    tuck to orm a loose ball wit

    a smooth top. ranser the

    bake aheadBrioches reheat well, so any that arenot eaten within a day or two can bereheated in a 325f oven until theoutside is crisp, about 7 minutes orsmall brioches or 15 minutes or large.Wrap cooled brioches well and storeat room temperature or up to twodays, or reeze or up to ive weeks.haw, wrapped, at room temperature.

    authentic brioche

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    . m 3

    ottage cheese is the secret to these delectable

    flaky buns.

    Yields 12 buns

    Cooking spray

    FOR THE DOUGH

    3 cup cottage cheese (4% milk fat)

    / cup butt ermi lk

    cup granulated sugar

    2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

    1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

    9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purposeflour; more for rolling

    1 Tbs. baking powder

    tsp. table salt

    tsp. baking soda

    FOR THE FILLING

    3 oz. (1 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted

    / cup packed light or dark brown sugar

    1 tsp. ground cinnamon

    tsp. ground allspice

    tsp. ground cloves

    1 cup (4 oz.) chopped pecans

    FOR THE GLAZE

    2 oz. (scant / cup) confectione rs sugar

    2 to Tbs. cold whole or low-fat milk

    1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

    Heat the oven to 400. rease the sides and botto of

    a 9- or 0-inch springfor pan with cooking spray.

    MAE THE DOUGH

    n a food processor, cobine the cottage cheese, butter-ilk, sugar, elted butter, and vanilla. Process until

    sooth, about 0 seconds. Add the flour, baking powder,

    salt, and baking soda and pulse in shor t bursts just until

    the dough clups together (dont overprocess). The

    dough will be soft and oist.

    Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and

    knead it with floured hands 4 or 5 ties until sooth. With

    a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 2x5-inch rectangle.

    MAE THE FILLING

    Brush the dough with the elted butter, leaving a 1-inch

    border unbuttered around the edges. n a ediu bowl,

    cobine the brown sugar, cinnaon, allspice, and cloves.

    Sprinkle the ixture over the buttered area of the dough

    and pat gently into the surface. Sprinkle the nuts over thesugar ixture.

    Starting at a long edge, roll up the dough jelly-roll style.

    Pinch the sea to seal, and leave the ends open.

    With a sharp knife, cut the roll into 2 equal pieces. Set

    the pieces, cut side up, in the prepared pan; they should

    fill the pan and touch slightly, but dont worry if there are

    sall gaps.

    fastest-ever cinnamon buns

    Bake until golden brown and fir to the touch, 20 to28 inutes. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool for

    5 inutes. Run a spatula around the inside edge of the

    pan and reove the springfor ring. Transfer the rolls to

    a serving plate.

    MAE THE GLAZE

    n a sall bowl, ix the confectioners sugar, 2 Tbs. ilk,

    and vanilla to ake a sooth glaze. t should have a thick

    but pourable consistency, so add up to Tbs. ore ilk

    if necessary. Drizzle the glaze over the rolls. Let stand for

    5 inutes and serve.

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    Leek and Morel Strata, p. 46

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    38 b r e a k f a s t 2 0 1 1

    brunch for a crowd

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    . 39

    waffle success Takecenterstage

    People like to watch waffles being made, sodont be shy about cooking the waffles whileyou and your guests have cocktails or coffee.eep the waffles warm until its time to eat by

    spreading themdont stackdirectly on arack in a 200 oven.

    BepatientAlways let your waffle iron heat up until a fewdrops of water flicked on the surface sizzle.Dont be tempted to rush batter onto an ironthats not preheated, or you wont getmaximum browning and flavor.

    Staylooserease the waffle iron between waffles byapplying a light coating of nonstick cooking sprayor brushing on a light coating of vegetable oil.

    Sneakapeekf the ready light or alarm on your waffle makercorresponds to a level of doneness you like, great.f not, dont be afraid to lift the lid after a coupleminutes. You can always leave the waffle in longerif its too pale, or crisp it further in the oven.

    crme rachewhipped creamRich and tangy crme frache adds a

    wonderful zing to whipped cream. This

    can be made a day ahead.Yieldsabout3cups

    4 oz.(1cup)crmefrache(soldinthespecialtycheesesectionofsomesupermarkets)

    3 Tbs.granulatedsugar

    cupcoldheavycream

    Inalargebowl,whisk the crme frache

    with the sugar until smooth. n a sepa-

    rate large bowl, whip the cream with

    an electric hand-held or stand mixer

    until the cream just barely reaches the

    firm-peak stage (it should hold a peak

    when the beater is pulled away, but

    it shouldnt be grainy). With a rubber

    spatula, gently fold half of the whipped

    cream into the crme frache and then

    gently fold in the remaining half. over

    and refrigerate until ready to serve;

    whisk a few times before serving.

    berry compoteSweet-tart berries are the per fect complement

    to the toasted hazelnuts in the waffles.

    Yieldsabout3cups

    2 tsp.cornstarch Tbs.fruitbrandyorwater

    2 0-oz.packagesfrozenmixedberries(or4 heapingcups),thawed,withtheirjuices

    cupgranulatedsugar

    Finelygratedzestfromlemon

    tsp.groundallspice

    tsp.groundcinnamon

    Inasmallbowl,dissolve the cornstarch in the

    brandy or water. Set aside. ombine the thawed

    berries and their juices, sugar, lemon zest, allspice,

    and cinnamon in a medium saucepan and bring

    to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often until

    the sugar dissolves. When bubbles appear on the

    side of the pan, just before the fruit reaches a full

    boil, quickly stir in the cornstarch mixture. Let the

    fruit boil for only 1 minute to cook the cornstarch;

    overcooking will make the fruit disintegrate. Remove

    from the heat. The compote will thicken further

    as it cools. ake the compote a day or two ahead

    and refrigerate until needed. The compote may be

    served at room temperature or slightly warm.

    hazelnut wafesThe finely ground hazelnuts that go into

    this batter add a nice nuttiness to the

    finished waffles. You can top them with

    maple syrup, but berries and whipped

    cream (below) will give them a more

    festive feel.

    Yields61cupsbatter,enoughfor

    about2standardwaffles

    3 oz.(/cup)hazelnuts,toasted andskinned

    9 oz.(2cups)unbleached all-purposeflour

    2 oz.(/cup)cakeflour

    Tbs.bakingpowder

    1 tsp.bakingsoda

    tsp.tablesalt

    2 cupsbuttermilk

    1 cupvegetableoil

    4 largeeg gs / cupgranulatedsugar

    1 tsp.purevanillaextract

    Vegetableoilornonstick cookingsprayforthewaffleiron

    Warmmaplesyrupandbutter, forserving

    Witharotarygrater, finely grind the

    hazelnuts. (r process the hazelnuts

    with 2 Tbs. of the flour in a food

    processor until finely ground.)

    Inalargebowl,whisk the ground

    hazelnuts, all-purpose and cake flours,

    baking powder, baking soda, and table

    salt until well combined. n another

    bowl, whisk the buttermilk, oil, eggs,

    sugar, and vanilla until well combined.

    With a very open whisk or a rubber

    spatula, lightly stir the wet ingredients

    into the dry ingredients until just

    combined (small lumps in the batter

    are fine).

    Letthebatterrest for at least

    20 minutes (and up to 2 hours in

    the refrigerator). ook the waffles

    according to your waffle iron

    manufacturers instructions. n aBelgian waffle maker, the waffles have

    a tender interior; in a standard waffle

    maker, theyll be crisper.

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    g . m 45

    A strata is like an talian quiche, but instead of

    an involved pastry crust, leftover bread fors

    the e custard base. As with a bread puddin,

    asseble this dish ahead of tie and refrier-ate it unbaked for up to 2 days. ts up to you

    whether or not to tri the bread cruststhey

    ive the strata a heartier texture.

    Serves 8

    2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more for the pan

    lb. asparagus, ends snapped off, cutinto 1-inch pieces

    Kosher salt and freshly ground black

    pepper

    1 oz. oyster mushrooms (or shiitake orwhite mushrooms), stemmed and

    thinly sliced

    6 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced,whites and greens separated (2 Tbs.

    whites, 1 cup greens)

    9 large eggs, beaten

    23 cups milk (preferably whole)

    large loaf (about lb.) rustic white bread

    (like ciabatta), cut into -inch cubes

    1 lb. thinly sliced deli ham, cut into-inch strips

    cups grated extra-sharp Cheddar

    (about 8 oz.)

    Melt the butter in a lare (12-inch) skillet over

    ediu-hih heat. Add the asparaus, sprinkle

    with tsp. each salt and pepper, and cook,

    stirrin occasionally, until the spears start to

    brown and soften, about 3 inutes. Add the

    ushroos and scallion whites and cook, stirrin

    occasionally, until the ushroos soften and

    cook throuh, about 2 inutes. Reove fro the

    heat and let cool for a couple of inutes.

    Butter a 9x13-inch bakin dish. Whisk the es

    with the ilk and tsp. each salt and pepper.

    Spread the bread in a sinle layer on the bot-

    to of the bakin dish. Top with half of the e

    ixture and then cover with half of the ha,

    cheese, and asparaus ixture, and sprinkle

    with half the scallion reens. Repeat with the

    reainin e ixture, ha, cheese, aspara-

    us ixture, and scallions. over with plastic,

    pressin down so the bread is copletely sub-

    ered in the e ixture, and refrierate for atleast 4 hours and up to 2 days before bakin.

    Position a rackin the center of the oven and

    heat the oven to 350. Let the strata sit at

    roo teperature while the oven heats. Bake

    until the custard sets and the top browns,

    about 30 inutes. Loosely cover with foil

    and bake for another 20 inutes. Let cool for

    10 inutes before cuttin.

    asparagus, ham, andmushroom strata

    apple, sage, andfennel breakfastsausageThese sausaes are full of flavor with

    the addition of sauted apple and

    crushed fennel seeds.

    Yields 6 21-inch patties; serves 8

    Tbs. vegetable oil; more as needed

    2 tart cooking apples (5 oz. total),such as Granny Smith or Pink Lady,

    peeled, cored, and cut into -inchdice

    bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly

    sliced, white and green parts divided

    2 lb. ground pork (avoid pork labeledextra tender, if possible)

    1 cup loosely packed fresh sage leaves,finely chopped

    1 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar

    or lightly chopped

    Table salt and freshly groundblack pepper

    Heat the oven to 200. n a 10-inch

    skillet, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over ediu

    heat. Add the apples and the scal-

    lion whites. ook, stirrin occasionally

    until the apples soften and just bein

    to brown, 5 to 8 inutes. Let cool for

    10 inutes. n a lare bowl, cobine tapple ixture with the pork, scallion

    reens, sae, fennel seeds, 1 tsp. salt,

    and tsp. pepper. mix with your hand

    until well cobined, but dont copa

    the ixture. gently shape into 16 pat-

    ties, about 3 inches in diaeter and

    inch thick.

    In a 2-inch heavy skillet, or a rill

    pan, heat the reainin 2 Tbs. oil over

    ediu-low to ediu heat. ook

    the sausaes (in batches so theyre

    not crowded) until nicely browned an

    cooked throuh, about 5 inutes per

    side. Add ore oil only if needed afte

    each batch, and adjust the heat to pre

    vent overbrownin.

    This twist on baels and lox ets a

    flavor boost fro orane zest and

    coriander.

    Yields 8

    firm-ripe medium avocados,cut into medium dice

    2 medium scallions, thinly

    sliced

    / cup chopped fresh cilantr o;whole leaves for garnish

    2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. fresh lime juice

    to 1 tsp. finely chopped

    jalapeo

    Kosher salt

    4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

    tsp. toasted coriander seeds,

    coarsely ground

    1 tsp. (scant) finely gratedorange zest

    lb. thinly sliced cold-smoked

    salmon, cut into 1-inch-wide

    strips

    8 slices sourdough bread

    (each 61 inches longand 1 inch thick),

    toasted very crisp

    2 medium cloves garlic,halved

    In a large bowl, ently ix (dont

    ash) the avocado, scallion,

    chopped cilantro, lie juice,

    jalapeo, and tsp. salt. n

    another ediu bowl, ix the oil,

    coriander, and orane zest. Toss

    the salon with the oil ixture.Rub the toasts lihtly with the cut

    sides of the arlic clove. Portion

    the avocado ixture aon the

    toasts. Pile the salon strips on

    top. garnish with the cilantro

    leaves and serve iediately so

    the toast stays crisp.

    open-faced smoked salmon andavocado sandwiches

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    c . c 5

    smoky black bean and cheddarburritos with spinach

    ake the bean mixture the night before. n the morning,

    just spread it on the tortilla, roll it, and hit the road.

    Serves 4

    4 burrito-size (9- to 10-inch) flour tortillas

    15 grape tomatoes (about 1 pint), quartered lengthwise

    2 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more as needed

    cup chopped fresh cilantro

    Kosher salt

    2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

    cup raw pepitas (optional)

    1 tsp. seeded and minced chipotle plus 1 tsp. adobosauce (from a can of chipotles en adobo)

    3 tsp. ground cumin

    1 19-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed

    cup grated sharp Cheddar

    1 oz. baby spinach (about 1 c ups)

    to cup sour cream (optional)

    Heat the oven to 250. Wrap the tortillas in aluminum

    foil and warm in the oven.

    Meanwhile, in a small bowl toss the tomatoes with 1 Tbs.

    of the lime juie, about 1 Tbs. of the ilantro, and a

    generous pinh of salt. Set aside. f using the pepitas, heat

    1 Tbs. of the olive oil and the pepitas in a 12-inh skillet

    over medium heat. cook, stirring frequently, until theyre

    puffed and some are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using

    a slotted spoon, transfer the pepitas to a plate lined with

    a paper towel. Sprinkle with a generous pinh of salt and

    toss.

    Return the pan to medium heat. Add the remaining

    1 Tbs. olive oil (or, if not using pepitas, heat the 2 Tbs. oil).

    Add the hipotle, adobo saue, and umin. Stir to blendinto the oil, and then add the beans and 2 Tbs. water to

    the pan, stirring to blend. Simmer until warmed through,

    about 2 minutes. Redue heat to low. ash about half of

    the beans with a fork. Stir in the cheddar and the remain-

    ing 2 Tbs. ilantro and 1 Tbs. lime juie. Season to taste

    with salt. f the beans seem too thik, add 1 to 2 Tbs. water

    to thin to a soft, spreadable onsisteny.

    Working with one tortilla at a time, spread about a

    quarter of the beans along the bottom third of a tortilla.

    Top with a quarter of the spinah, and sprinkle with about

    a quarter of the tomatoes and pepitas (if using). f you

    like, add a little lime juie and sour ream on top. old the

    bottom edge over the filling, fold in the sides, and roll up

    the burrito.

    french-style grilled hamand gruyreorget take-out breakfast sandwihes: This grilled ham

    and heese gets a twist from Dijon mustard and tarragon

    Serves 4

    6 oz. coarsely grated Gruyre

    2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon (or 1 tsp. dried)

    4 tsp. salted butter, at room temperature

    8 -inch-thick slices egg bread, such as challahor brioche

    2 Tbs. Dijon mustard; more for serving

    4 thin slices (about lb. total) Black Forest ham

    In a small bowl, mix the heese and tarragon. Butter all

    the bread slies on one side only. Put four slies, buttere

    side down, on a utting board. Distribute the heese ove

    the bread and top with the ham, folding the ham slies

    if theyre large. Spread about 1 tsp. mustard on the

    unbuttered side of the remaining bread slies and set

    them, mustard side down, on top.Heat a large nonstick pan or griddle over medium-high

    heat for 2 minutes. Put as many sandwihes as will fit in

    the pan or on the griddle without rowding, over, and

    ook until the heese has just begun to melt and the

    bread is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove the lid

    and turn the sandwihes, pressing eah one firmly with a

    spatula to flatten it slightly. cook the sandwihes unov-

    ered until the bottom is golden brown, about 1 minute.

    Turn them one more and press with the spatula again

    to rerisp the bread, about 30 seonds. cut in half and

    serve immediately, with more mustard on the side.

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    52 2 0 1 1

    lab pies are like giant Pop-arts designed

    to feed a crowd. s the pie cools, the filling

    made with apricots both fresh and dried

    firms up enough that the slices can be eaten

    out of hand.

    Yields large pie; serves 0

    FOR THE DOUGH

    5 oz. (3 1/ cups) unb leached all-p urpose flour

    3 Tbs. granulated sugar

    tsp. kosher salt

    9 oz. ( cup plus 2 Tbs.) cold unsaltedbutter, cut into 8 pieces

    oz. (3 Tbs.) cold vegetable shortening,cut into 3 pieces

    FOR THE FILLING

    0 oz. (about 2 cups) dried apricots,coarsely chopped

    / cup granulated sugar

    / cup dry white wine1/ cup oran ge juice

    2 oz. fresh apricots (about 6 small),pitted and sliced

    tsp. fresh lemon juice

    3 oz. ( cup) sliced almonds, toasted

    Tbs. brandy

    tsp. pure almond extract

    FOR AS SEMBLY

    large egg yolk

    2 oz. ( cup) confectioners sugar, sifted

    Tbs. heavy cream or whole milk

    tsp. pure vanilla extract

    MAE THE DOUGH

    Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food proces-

    sor. dd the butter and vegetable shortening

    and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse

    meal, 10 to 12 pulses. prinkle /3 cup cold water

    over the mixture and pulse until the dough just

    starts to come together, 8 to 10 pulses more. If

    the mixture seems dry, add more water 1 tsp. at

    a time. Do not overprocess.

    Turn the dough out onto a clean work

    surface, and gather it into a rectangle thats

    about 8 by 12 inches. latten slightly, wrap in

    plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours

    and up to days.

    MAE THE FILLING

    In a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan, combine

    the dried apricots, sugar, wine, orange juice,

    and /3 cup water. immer over medium-low

    heat, stirring often, until the apricots are very

    tender and can be mashed with a wooden

    spoon, 40 to 45 minutes. dd more water if

    the apricots are still not soft after most of the

    liquid has evaporated. he mixture should get

    thick and syrupy; dont let it scorch. dd the

    fresh apricots and lemon juice and cook, stir-

    ring often, until very soft, about 10 minutes.

    Mash the mixture with a wooden spoon or

    potato masher so that it has a thick, jam-like

    consistency. emove from the heat.

    Stir cup of the almonds, the brandy, and

    almond extract into the apricot mixture. Cool

    to room temperature and set aside. (he fill-

    ing can be made, covered, and refrigerated up

    to 2 days ahead.)

    ASSEMBLE AND BAE THE IE

    Position a rack in the center of the oven and

    heat the oven to 75. Line a large rimmed

    baking sheet with parchment. In a small bowl,

    beat the egg yolk with 1 tsp. water.

    On a lightly floured surface with a lightly

    floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a /-inch-

    thick, 12x18-inch rectangle. e sure to loosen

    the dough several times and reflour under-

    neath so that it doesnt stick. rim the dough

    into an 11x16-inch rectangle and transfer it

    to the baking sheet. urn the baking sheet

    so that a long side faces you, and brush the

    edges of the dough with the egg wash. pread

    the apricot filling evenly over the bottom half

    of the dough, leaving a -inch border. old the

    top half of the dough over the filling, pressing

    along the edges to secure the sides. Press

    lightly along the edges with the back of a fork

    to seal. rush egg wash all over the top of the

    dough. Using a paring knife, cut 5 small steam

    vents in the dough at about -inch intervals.

    Bake until the pie is golden-brown, 55 min-utes. ransfer to a rack to cool completely.

    In a small bowl, mix the confectioners sug

    cream, and vanilla extract to form a smoot

    glaze thats just fluid enough to drizzle. Wi

    spoon, drizzle the glaze over the top of the

    and immediately sprinkle with the remain-

    ing cup almonds. llow to set for at least

    2 hours before serving.

    When ready to serve, use a serrated knife

    cut the pie. he pie is best eaten the day it

    made, but it will keep for 1day, well wrappe

    at room temperature.

    brandied apricot-almond slab pie

    seal righto seal the filled pie, press a forkdown gently, just enough to createa good bond (and a pretty crimpedeffect), but not so hard that itpushes through to the second layer

    of dough or pierces it, which maycause the filling to leak.

    on the go

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    f . m 53

    leftover brieAlthough brie is tradition-ally spread on crackers orbread, its also a deliciousingredient in savory cook-ing. Try olding letover brieinto ashed potatoes,risotto, or polenta, whereit will add sharp richness

    just be sure to reove therind irst.

    Reove the rind ro the brie while the

    cheese is still cold. for a eaty lavor

    and texture, choose a thinly sliced ha

    steak rather than deli ha. Look or a

    ha steak thats labeled ha in natural

    juices.

    Serves 4

    1 large baguette (about 1 lb),cut into 4 pieces

    7 oz. brie, most of the rind trimmedoff, thinly sliced

    2 Tbs. unsalted butter

    1 medium Granny Smith apples,

    peeled (optional), cored, andcut into -inch-thick wedges

    (about 1 cups)

    lb. ham steak, thinly sliced on the

    diagonal2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard

    1 Tbs. honey

    1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

    Position a rackin the center o the oven

    and heat the oven to 425f. Split the

    baguette pieces lengthwise, open the

    up like a book, and top one side with the

    brie. Set on a baking sheet lined with

    parchent or aluinu oil and bake

    until the cheese elts and the bread

    lightly browns, about 5 inutes.

    Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large

    (12-inch) heavy skillet over ediu-high

    heat. Add the apples and cook, tossing

    every inute or so, until they start to

    soten and brown in places, 3 to 4 in-

    utes. Add the ha and cook, tossing

    gently, until it wars. Reove ro the

    heat and gently toss with the ustard,

    honey, and thye until the ha and

    apples are evenly coated. Using tongs,distribute the ha ixture into the war

    pieces o baguette, secure with 2 tooth-

    picks, cut in hal, and serve.

    oven-toasted ham, brie, and apple sandwiches

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    54 2 0 1 1

    on the go

    chinese pork andmushroom wrapshis sian take on a soft burrito can be eaten out

    hand, hot or cold. Its a great way to use up pork lo

    leftovers.

    Serves 6 to 8

    6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage

    (about 3 lb.)

    Kosher salt

    2 Tbs. hoisin sauce (we like Koon Chun or LeeKum Kee brands), plus cup for serving

    Tbs. soy sauce

    2 tsp. Asian sesame oil

    tsp. rice vinegar

    Tbs. canola or peanut oil

    2 cups matchstick-cut already cooked roastedpork loin(about lb.)

    bunch scallions, trimmed, whites and light gre

    parts thinly sliced and green parts cut into 2-ipieces (keep separate)

    lb. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and

    thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

    2 large eggs, beaten

    2 tsp. minced fresh ginger

    2 tsp. minced garlic

    6 to 8 medium (about 8-inch diameter) flour

    tortillas, warmed

    Put the cabbage in a colander over the sink and t

    with tsp. salt. Let sit for 10 minutes. ransfer to

    baking sheet lined with paper towels and pat dry.

    In a small bowl, mix 2 bs. of the hoisin sauce wit

    the soy sauce, sesame oil, and vinegar. et aside.

    In a 2-inch heavy-duty nonstick skillet, heat 1 b

    of the canola oil over medium-high heat untilshimmering. dd the pork, sprinkle lightly with sal

    and cook, stirring, until it starts to brown around

    the edges, about 3 minutes. ransfer to a large

    plate. dd another 1 bs. oil to the pan and once i

    shimmering, add the scallion whites, the mushroo

    and tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, unt

    they brown and soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Push the

    mushroom mixture to one side of the pan and ad

    the eggs. Cook, scrambling and breaking up with a

    wooden spoon or spatula into small pieces, until j

    set, about 1 minute. ransfer the contents of the

    skillet to the plate with the pork.

    Heat the remaining1 bs. oil and add the scallion

    greens, cabbage, ginger, and garlic. Cook, stirring

    occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. dd

    the reserved hoisin mixture and the pork mixture

    the cabbage and stir to distribute the hoisin. Coo

    stirring occasionally, for 1 minute to meld the flav

    pread about 1 bs. of the hoisin down the cente

    of a tortilla, arrange a generous amount of the po

    mixture over the hoisin, and wrap in the tortilla,

    burrito-style.

    watermelon, tomato,and feta saladPop this into a plastic container and pack a fork for a fruit-

    filled start to your day.

    Serves 6 to 8

    2 large yellow tomatoes (about 1 lb.), cored and cut into3-inch pieces

    lb. seedless watermelon, trimmed of rind and cut into

    3-inch pieces

    2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint

    6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

    Tbs. red wine vinegar

    1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

    Kosher salt

    8 oz. feta, cut into 3-inch pieces

    Coarse sea salt (optional)

    In a large serving bowl, combine the tomatoes, water-

    melon, and mint. In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, red

    pepper flakes, and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Pour over the tomatomixture and toss well. Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes at

    room temperature. old in the feta and toss well.

    Serve, sprinkled lightly with the coarse sea salt, if using

    (use about tsp.it adds a bit of texture); this salad can

    sit for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.

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    58 2 0 1 1

    on the go

    tuffed with ham and cheese,

    these croissants are a decadent

    take on the traditional breakfast

    sandwich.

    Yils 15

    Fr the dgh

    1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) unblacall-pupos flou; mo foollin

    5 oz. ( cup plus 2 tbs.) colwa

    5 oz. ( cup plus 2 tbs.) colwol milk

    2 oz. ( cup plus 2 tbs.)anula sua

    1 oz. (3 tbs.) sof unsalbu

    1 tbs. plus scan sp.insan yas

    2 sp. abl sal

    Fr the tter Yer

    10 oz. (1 cups) col unsalbu

    Fr the egg h d Fg

    1 la

    lb. slic am

    lb. inly slic Ca oguy

    MKe the dgh

    Combine all of the dough ingredi-

    ents in the bowl of a stand mixer

    fitted with the dough hook. Mix on

    low speed for 3 minutes, scrap-

    ing the sides of the bowl once if

    necessary. Mix on medium speed

    for 3 minutes. ransfer the dough

    to a lightly floured 10-inch pie pan

    or a dinner plate. Lightly flour the

    top of the dough and wrap well

    with plastic so it doesnt dry out.

    efrigerate overnight.

    MKe the tter Yer

    he next day, cut the cold butter

    lengthwise into -inch-thick

    slabs. rrange the slabs on a

    piece of parchment or waxedpaper to form a 5- to 6-inch

    square, cutting the butter cross-

    wise as necessary to fit. op with

    another piece of parchment or

    waxed paper. With a rolling pin,

    pound the butter with light, even

    strokes. s the pieces begin to

    adhere, use more force. Pound

    the butter until its about 7

    inches square and then trim the

    edges of the butter. Put the trim-

    mings on top of the square and

    pound them in lightly with the

    rolling pin. efrigerate while you

    roll out the dough.

    Mte the dgh

    Unwrap and lay the dough on a

    lightly floured work surface. oll

    into a 10-inch square. rush

    excess flour off the dough.

    emove the butter from the

    refrigeratorit should be pliable

    but cold. If not, refrigerate a bit

    longer. Unwrap and place the

    butter on the dough so that the

    points of the butter square are

    centered along the sides of the

    dough. old one flap of dough

    over the butter toward you,

    stretching it slightly so that the

    point just reaches the center

    of the butter. epeat with the

    other flaps. hen press the edges

    together to completely seal the

    butter inside the dough. ( com-

    plete seal ensures butter wont

    escape.)

    ily flou op and bottom

    of the dough. With the rolling

    pin, firmly press the dough to

    elongate it slightly and then begin

    rolling instead of pressing, focus-

    ing on lengthening rather thanwidening the dough and keeping

    the edges straight . oll the dough

    until its 8x24 inches. If the ends

    lose their square shape, gently

    reshape the corners with your

    hands. rush any flour off the

    dough. Pick up one short end of

    the dough and fold it back over

    the dough, leaving one-third of

    the other end of dough exposed.

    rush the flour off and then fold

    the exposed dough over the

    folded side. Put the dough on a

    baking sheet, cover with plasticwrap, and freeze for 20 minutes

    to relax and chill the dough.

    rpa ollinand folding,

    this time rolling in the direction

    of the two open ends until the

    dough is about 8x24 inches.

    old the dough in thirds again,

    brushing off excess flour and

    turning under any rounded edges

    layer for flavorhinly sliced ham and sliced orgrated cheesea good Cheddar orGruyre is bestmake the classiccroissant deliciously savory.

    ham and cheese croissants

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    . m 6

    individual cinnamon cofee cakeswith chocolate-cherry-almond swirlf you want to bake these fresh for special overnight guests, start the

    dough the day before and get up early the next day to finish in tie

    for a leisurely breakfast. The cakes also freeze like a drea. Wrap

    unglazed cooled cakes well in plastic wrap and freeze for up to aonth. Defrost the overnight (or for a few hours) in the refrigerator

    and war the in a low oven before heading out the door.

    Svs 8

    Fr e dg

    1 cup wam whol milk (about 05F)

    1 tsp. activ ast

    /3 cup plus 2 tsp. anulat sua

    9 oz. (2 cups) all-pupos flou

    1 tsp. tabl salt

    tsp. oun cinnamon

    2 la s, lihtl batn

    5 oz. (0 bs.) v soft unsalt butt

    1 cup slic almons, toast

    Fr e Fg

    lb. smiswt chocolat

    6 oz. (about cup) i chis

    cup slic almons, toast

    /3 cup anulat sua

    1 tsp. oun cinnamon

    la , spaat

    1 tsp. whol milk

    Fr e ge

    cup confctions sua

    4 to 5 tsp. ston bw coff

    dy eFre g, e e dg

    n the bowl of a stand ixer, gently whisk the war ilk with the y

    to cobine. Sprinkle with 2 tsp. of the sugar. Let the yeast proof u

    air pockets float up, aking the ixture look spongy, 5 to 10 inu

    th mainindough ingredients and ix with the paddle

    attachent on ediu-low speed until the dough coes toget

    and then continue ixing for 6 inutes to knead the dough, scra

    the sides of the bowl once or twice. The dough should be loose a

    see ore like a tacky batter.

    mmiatl scap th ouh into a greased bowl thats at leas

    twice the doughs size, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrige

    overnight.

    e e Fg

    The next orning, put the chocolate in a food processor and pu

    chop coarsely. Add the dried cherries, alonds, sugar, and cinna

    and pulse until quite fine. Add the egg white and process just unt

    the ingredients for a rough paste. (over the leftover yolk and

    refrigerate.)

    SSee e red

    rease 8 cups of a 12-cup uffin pan. Scrape the chilled dough

    liberally floured surface. Using a well-floured rolling pin, gently ro

    dough into a rectangle about 12x8 inches. Work quickly; the war

    the dough gets, the harder it is to handle. Spread the filling by han

    over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border on all four sides. ts all rig

    if its a bit uneven. Starting with a long side, roll the dough into a lo

    shape. f the dough sticks to the work surface, use a bench knife

    spatula to lift it.

    ush th xcss flou fro the top and sides of the dough roll.

    a sharp knife, tri the ends of the roll just enough to expose the

    of filling. Discard the triings. ut the roll into 8 equal slices (e

    about 1 to 2 inches wide). Set each slice, spiral side up, in a grea

    uffin cup, brushing the flour fro the botto of each piece as

    go. Press very gently to be sure each piece reaches the botto o

    cup. Pour a few Tbs. of water into the epty, ungreased cups.

    Cov th ouh with a clean, dap dishtowel or an oversize pla

    storage container (to ake a little greenhouse) and let rise unt

    and billowy, 1 to 2 hours.

    anwhil, heat the oven to 350. make an egg wash by ixing

    reserved egg yolk with the tsp. ilk. Just before baking, brush t

    dough with the egg wash. Bake until puffed and deep golden, 20 t

    25 inutes. Let cool for 10 to 15 inutes. arefully siphon or dra

    water fro the extra cups and wipe dry. Loosen under the edge o

    cakes caps with the tip of a paring knife. f the cakes grew togeth

    during baking, cut between the to separate. Turn onto a cooling

    e d y e ge

    n a cup, ix the confectioners sugar and coffee to ake a soo

    paste. t should be thick but still pourable. Drizzle over the cakes

    they have cooled slightly.

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    Creamy Coconut Oatmeal with Dried Peaches

    and Candied Coconut Pecans, p. 71

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    Quick start

    66 k f 2 0 1 1

    baked eggs withchives and creamhese eggs are surprisingly easy:

    heyre ready in about 10 minutes.

    Serves 2

    2 tsp. unsalted butter,softened

    4 large eggs

    Kosher salt and freshlyground black pepper

    1 tsp. chopped fresh

    chives

    2 Tbs. heavy cream

    Position a rackin the center o

    the oven and heat the oven to

    425f. utter two 6-inch gratin

    dishes with 1 tsp. butter each.

    Crack2 eggs into each gratin

    dish. eason with a pinch o salt

    and pepper and sprinle with the

    chives. Drizzle 1 bs. cream in

    each dish, starting over the yols

    and woring around the dish.

    ae until the eggs are bubbly

    and browned on the edges

    but not quite set in the middle,

    5 minutes. (for irmer eggs, baean additional 1 minute .)

    Heat the broiler on high. roil the

    eggs, still on the center rac o

    the oven, until the center is just

    set, about 2 minutes. emove

    rom the oven immediatelythe

    eggs will continue to set.

    candied baconhis maple syrup-coated, brown sugar-

    crusted bacon is the perect salty-sweet

    marriage.

    Serves 2

    6 slices thick-cut bacon

    2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. pure maple syrup

    1 Tbs. light brown sugar

    Position a rackin the center o the oven

    and heat the oven to 425f. rrange the

    bacon slices on a rimmed baing sheet.

    Drizzle both sides with the maple syrupand then sprinle both sides evenly with

    the brown sugar. ae until browned and

    crisp, 20 to 22 minutes.

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    c . c 79

    aple syrup brings a bit of breakfast flavor

    to any meal.

    Serves 2

    4 thin (-inch) boneless center-cutpork chops

    1 cup all-purpose flour

    3 cup homemade or lower-salt chicken

    broth or water

    2 Tbs. dark rum

    Tbs. pure maple syrup, preferably

    grade B

    Kosher salt and freshly ground blackpepper

    2 Tbs. olive oil; more if needed

    Tbs. minced fresh ginger

    medium clove garlic, finely chopped

    Tbs. unsalted butter

    Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro

    Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint

    Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels.

    Put the flour on a plate. combine the broth

    or water, rum, and maple syrup in a measur-

    ing up or small bowl; set aside. enerously

    season the pork hops on both sides with

    salt and pepper. Dredge the hops in the

    flour and shake off the exess.

    Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat for

    1 minute. Add the oil, and when its hot, set

    the hops in the pan (if they wont fit without

    rowding, ook them in bathes). cook until

    one side is light golden, about 2 minutes.

    Turn the piees and ook until the other

    side is light golden and the meat is ooked

    through but still moist, another 1 to 2 min-

    utes. (Beause the meat is so thin, it ant

    get more than light golden on eah side

    without beoming overooked and dry.)

    Transfer the hops to a plate and repeat

    with the remaining hops, if neessary.

    Add the ginger and garli to the pan and stir

    onstantly until they begin to turn golden,

    5 to 10 seonds, and then immediately add

    the maple-rum mixture to the pan. Use a

    wooden spoon or spatula to srape up the

    browned bits and help them dissolve. Boil

    until the saue has redued by about two-thirds and is niely sauy, 3 to 4 minutes.

    ff the heat, add the butter, swirling the

    pan vigorously (or whisking) as it melts so it

    emulsifies the saue. Season to taste with

    salt and pepper. Spoon the saue over the

    pork and then sprinkle on the ilantro and

    mint. Serve right away.

    pork chops with maple-ginger pan sauce

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    80 k 2 0 1 1

    braised sausages withbalsamic-glazed onionand grapesausage and grapes are a classic Italian pai

    he addition of balsamic vinegar and caram

    ized onions turns this into a quic, warming

    braise. Piercing the sausages with the tines

    a for will allow them to release some of the

    juices and infuse the broth.

    Serves 4

    3 Tbs. olive oil

    8 links sweet Italian sausage (about2 lb.), pricked with a fork

    1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced

    (about 2 cups)

    Kosher salt

    cup homemade or lower-salt

    chicken broth

    2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar

    20 seedless red grapes, halved

    2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano

    In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat 1 bs. of th

    over medium heat until its shimmering. d

    the sausages and coo, turning every coup

    minutes, until theyre browned all over, abo

    8 minutes. ransfer to a large plate.

    Add the remaining 2 Tbs. oil and the onion

    to the pot, sprinle with tsp. salt, and coo,

    stirring occasionally, until the onion softens

    completely and starts to turn light brown, abo

    7 minutes. dd the chicen broth and balsam

    vinegar and scrape the bottom of the pot wit

    wooden spoon to incorporate any browned b

    educe to a gentle simmer (medium low or lo

    depending on your stovetop). dd the sausa

    and grapes, cover the pot with the lid ajar, and

    coo, stirring occasionally, until the sausages

    cooed through (slice into one to chec), abo

    25 minutes. erve sprinled with the oregano

    storing linksMost sausage will hold inthe refrigerator for three

    or four days after open-ing. or longer storage,pac a couple of lins ina zip-top bag and freezefor up to three months.When ready to use, thawin the refrigerator.

    tomato andmozzarella omeletPaired with a green salad and

    baguette, this omelet maes a

    satisfying dinner.

    Yields 1 omelet; serves 1

    2 tsp. olive oil

    2 Tbs. minced onion

    tsp. minced garlic

    Kosher salt

    cup chopped and drained

    canned tomatoes

    1 oil-packed sun-dried tomato,

    minced (to yield 1 tsp.)

    Freshly ground black pepper

    2 large or extra-large eggs

    5 leaves fresh basil, very thinlysliced (to yield 1 Tbs.)

    1 tsp. unsalted butter

    1 thin slice mozzarella, cut in half

    1 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

    1 Tbs. good-quality store-bought

    basil pesto

    In a medium skillet, heat 1 tsp.

    of the oil over medium heat. dd

    the onion; coo, stirring, until

    tender and translucent, about 5

    minutes, adding the garlic and 2

    pinches of salt halfway through.

    aise the heat to medium high.

    Coo, stirring, until golden, another

    1 to 2 minutes. tir in the canned

    tomatoes; simmer until the liquidhas evaporated, about 2 minutes.

    dd the sun-dried tomatoes, sev-

    eral grinds of pepper, and a pinch

    of salt if needed. You should have

    about cup filling; set aside 1 tsp.

    for garnish.

    In a medium bowl, whis the eggs,

    basil, 1 bs. water, 2 pinches of salt,

    and 4 grinds of pepper until the

    yols and whites are well combined

    but not foamy. In an 8-inch heavy-

    duty nonstic sillet over medium-

    high heat, heat the remaining 1 tsp.

    oil and then add the butter. wirl to

    coat the pan.

    When the butter melts, pour the

    eggs into the pan. With a heatproof

    spatula, scramble the eggs using

    small, circular scribbling motions

    until soft curds start to form, 30 to

    50 seconds. s the mixture firms,

    spread it over the bottom of thepan; swipe the sides as needed.

    top woring the curds to let the

    omelet begin to firm and let it sit

    about 30 seconds. (If you lie your

    eggs well done, let it go a bit longer.)

    dd the mozzarellaevenly, leaving

    a scant margin around the omelets

    edge. dd the tomato filling and

    use your spatula to gently press

    them into the curds to incorporate

    the filling into the omelet.

    With the spatula, lift one-third

    of the omelet and fold it over the

    center lie a business letter. ilt

    the pan toward the plate to slide

    the omelet so one-third of it hangs

    over the pans edge. Invert the pan,

    using the spatula to help support

    the omelet so that it flips neatly

    over itself as it slides out of the pan.

    Garnish with the Parmigiano, the

    pesto, and the reserved filling.

    breakfast for dinner

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    breakfast for dinner

    steak and eggsrancherosThis beefed-up version of the Mexican

    breakfast dish huevos rancheros (ranch-

    style eggs) makes a hearty dinner.

    Serves 2

    tiny clove garlic

    Kosher salt

    small tomato, cut into small dice

    avocado, cut into small dice

    1 cup homemade or store-bought

    salsa, drained

    1 fresh jalapeo, minced

    2 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

    Freshly ground black pepper

    Tbs. vegetable oil

    2 6-inch corn tortillas

    2 large eggs

    4 to 5 oz. sliced leftover steak (about

    four -inch-thick slices), warmed in

    the microwave or in a skillet

    1 cup crumbled feta

    Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle the gar-

    lic with a generous pinch of salt and mash

    it into a paste with the side of a chefs knife.

    In a small bowl, combine the garlic with

    the tomato, avocado, salsa, jalapeo, and

    1 Tbs. of the cilantro. Season to taste with

    salt and pepper.

    Have ready two dinner plates and a stack

    of paper towels. Heat the oil in a 10-inch

    nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.

    Using tongs, fry the tortillas one at a time

    until just golden and slightly crisp, about30 seconds per side, and transfer to the

    paper towels. Reduce the heat to medium

    low and let the skillet cool down a bit.

    Meanwhile, blot the excess oil from the

    tortillas with the paper towels. Sprinkle

    each tortilla with a pinch of salt. Put one

    tortilla on each plate.

    Crack the eggs into the skillet. Season with

    salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the

    yolks edges have just begun to set, 2 to

    3 minutes. (The eggs should cook gently,

    so lower the heat if needed.)

    While the eggs are cooking, divide half

    the salsa between the tortillas. Divide the

    steak between the tortillas and top with

    the remaining salsa. Separate the eggs

    with the edge of a spatula, if needed. Slide

    one egg onto each tortilla. Sprinkle with

    the remaining 1 Tbs. cilantro and the feta.

    Serve immediately.

    pan-friedsouthwestern hashButtery fingerling potatoes and a

    healthy punch of spice wake up this

    hash. This techniqueparboiling th

    potatoes and then sauting them a

    the onions and peppers separately

    ensures that the potatoes have a so

    interior and crisp exterior.

    Serves 4 to 6

    1 lb. fingerling potatoes, cut into

    -inch pieces

    Kosher salt

    3 cup canola oil

    large yellow onion, finely diced

    (about cup)

    large red bell pepper, cut into1-inch dice (about cup)

    medium green bell pepper, cut

    into 1-inch dice (about cup)

    tsp. chili powder

    tsp. fresh oregano

    Freshly ground black pepper

    Put the potatoes in a -quart sauc

    pan, cover with cold water by a cou

    of inches, stir in 1 Tbs. salt, and bring

    a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, an

    cook until the potatoes are tender b

    still firm, about 10 minutes. Drain we

    In a 2-inch heavy skillet, heat 3 Tb

    of the oil over medium-high heat un

    the oil is shimmering. Lower the hea

    to medium, add the potatoes, sprin

    with tsp. salt, and cook, stirring

    occasionally, until they brown and s

    to crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to

    large plate.

    Raise the heat to medium high, po

    the remaining oil into the skillet, add

    onion and bell pepper, sprinkle with

    tsp. salt, and cook, tossing occasion

    until they brown and become some

    what tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in

    the chili powder, oregano, and tsp

    pepper, and cook, tossing, for 30 se

    onds so the spices become fragran

    Add the potatoes and cook, tossing

    until they heat through and pick up t

    flavors of the vegetables and spicesabout 2 minutes. Taste and season

    salt and pepper if needed, and serv

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    c k . c 8

    toasted bread

    with chocolate

    Sometimes, all you want is something sweetbefore bed. Adding a drizzle of olive oil and a

    pinh of salt is a sophistiated touh.

    Serves 8

    8 1-inch-thick slices good bread, such asa rustic peasant bread or a real baguette

    Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

    for drizzling

    4 oz. best-quality bittersweet chocolate,very coarsely chopped (scant cup)

    Sea salt, kosher salt, or any specialty salt

    Position a rack4 inhes from the broiler element

    and heat the broiler to high. Put the bread on a

    baing sheet and toast until light golden on bothsides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drizzle the bread

    with olive oil. Distribute the hoolate evenly on

    top of the bread. Turn off the broiler and return

    the bread to the oven until the residual heat

    melts the hoolate, about 1 minute. Smooth the

    hoolate with a table nife, if you want. Sprinle

    a pinh of salt on eah slie and serve.

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    88 2 0 1 1

    Instead of pork chops for breakfast, a small tenderloin

    topped with fruit and vegetables is a satisfying dish.

    Serves 2 to 3

    1 medium sweet potato (about 11 oz.), unpeeled

    1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz.), peeled

    1 Golden Delicious apple, unpeeled

    1 small pork tenderloin (about 1 lb.)

    Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

    3 Tbs. unsalted butter

    3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

    1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finelychopped or grated

    4 Tbs. cider vinegar

    2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

    Cut the sweet potato, onion, and apple into -inch cubes

    or pieces and set each aside separately. lice the pork into

    12 to 14 medallions about 3 to 1 inch thick (dont worry if

    theyre not all even). eason them with 1 tsp. salt and a little

    pepper and set aside.

    In a large straight-sided skillet, melt 1 bs. each of the but-

    ter and oil over medium heat. dd the sweet potato pieces

    in one layer and season with about 3 tsp. salt and a little

    pepper. aut them until theyre brown and crusty on most

    sides, about 10 minutes. (Dont stir often; let them sit in the

    pan for 2 or minutes on each side before flipping with a

    metal spatula.) Carefully add bs. water to the pan, and,

    as it sizzles, cover the pan briefly (about 1 minute) to let the

    potato steam. Uncover, stir, and transfer to a bowl.

    Turn the heat to medium high, heat another 1 bs. each but-

    ter and oil in the pan, and add the onion and apple. eason

    with tsp. salt. aut, stirring occasionally, until the onion

    is soft and both the onion and apple are nicely browned

    around the edges (the bottom of the pan will be brown), 6

    to 8 minutes. tir in the ginger, saut briefly, and pour 2 bs.

    cider vinegar and 2 bs. water into the pan. emove the

    pan from the heat and stir to scrape up the browned bits.

    ransfer the contents of the pan to the bowl with the sweet

    potatoes.

    Put the pan back over medium-high heat and add the

    remaining 1 bs. butter and 1 bs. oil. s soon as the butter

    sizzles loudly, add the pork medallions in one layer. Cook for

    2 minutes (theyll be lightly browned), turn over, and cook

    for another 2 minutes. ransfer the pork to a plate. Carefully

    pour in the remaining 2 bs. cider vinegar and 2 bs. water,remove the pan briefly from the heat, and scrape up the

    browned bits. eturn the sweet potato mixture to the pan

    over the heat and stir until heated through. Put several pork

    slices in the middle of each of 2 or warm plates. old the

    parsley, if using, into the sweet potato mixture and evenly

    mound it on top of the pork.

    pork, sweet potato, and apple saut

    midnight cravings

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    n n g . 89

    f youd like to make this pasta for four people,

    double the recipe, but trasfer the pasta back

    ito the pot used for cooki it ad the toss it

    with the es ad cheese.

    Serves 2

    Kosher salt

    1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

    4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced

    inch thick and cut into 1x-inchrectangles

    Freshly ground black pepper

    cup diced red onion

    2 large eggs, chilled

    lb. imported dried spaghetti

    cup lightly packed, freshly gratedParmigiano-Reggiano

    Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil

    over hih heat.

    In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil overmedium heat. Add the pacetta or uaciale ad

    tsp. pepper ad cook, stirri occasioally, util

    olde ad beii to crisp, about 5 miutes.

    (f the meat is browi too quickly, reduce

    the heat to medium low.) Add the oio ad

    cotiue to cook util its soft ad olde ad the

    meat is crisp, about aother 5 miutes.

    Remove the pan from the heat ad carefully

    spoo off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add

    1 Tbs. water to the pa ad scrape ay browed

    bits from the bottom.

    In a small bowl, beat the es util smooth ad

    set aside.

    Cook the spaghetti i the boili water accordi

    to packae directios util its just shy of al dete.

    Reserve cup of the cooki water ad drai the

    spahetti. Trasfer the spahetti to the skillet, set

    it over medium heat, ad toss with tos to coat

    the spahetti with the fat ad fiish cooki to al

    dete, about 1 miute. f the pasta is too dry or

    starts to stick to the bottom of the pa, add 1 or

    2 tsp. of the pasta water. You wat the bottom of

    the pa to be just barely wet. f the pa is too dry,

    the es will scramble whe you add them.

    Remove the skillet from the heat ad pour

    the es over the pasta, tossi quickly ad

    cotiuously util the es thicke ad tur to

    the cosistecy of a thi custard, 30 secods

    to 1 miute. (Tossi costatly is importat,as it prevets the es from scrambli.) The

    sauce should be smooth ad creamy, ad it

    should cli to the pasta. Add a little more pasta

    water if ecessary to loose the sauce. Stir i

    the Parmiiao ad seaso to taste with salt ad

    pepper (you may ot eed additioal salt, as

    both uaciale ad pacetta ca be very salty).

    Serve immediately.

    spaghetti alla carbonara

    carbonara tricks

    Add eouh pasta water to prevetthe bottom of the pa from becom-i dry; the es will scramble i adry pa.

    Pour the es over the pasta adkeep tossi util the es thickeito a custard-like cosistecy.

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    Serve this cake drizzled with a little heavy

    cream or crme frache. The cake will keep for

    a day, covered, at room temperature; if you

    keep it longer, the moisture from the plums

    will start to soften the streusel.

    Yid n 8-inc-qa cak;

    v 8 9

    For the streusel

    21 z. ( cp) nbacd a-pp f

    1 cp packd dak bwn ga

    / p. k a

    Pinc ( ab /6 p. ) f gn d cada mm

    z. (3 tb.) nad b, md; m

    a ndd

    For the Ce

    1 b. ( cp) cd nad b, c in

    ma pic; m fnd f p

    z. ( cp) nbacd a-ppf; m f pan

    2 ag gg

    cp ganad ga

    1 cp packd dak ig bwn ga

    1 cp w mik

    p. p vania xac

    p. baking pwd

    p. ab a

    p. gnd cadamm

    3 fim-ip mdim pm, ac pidand qad

    Me the streusel

    Put the flour, sugar, salt, and cardamom i

    small bowl and stir with a fork until thorou

    combined. Drizzle the melted butter ove

    the mixture and stir with the fork until themixture resembles a clumpy dough. Using

    your fingers, break the mixture into pistac

    size clumps and large crumbs. (If the stre

    is sandy and wont clump, add a little mor

    melted butter, 1 tsp. at a time.) Refrigerate

    streusel while you prepare the cake batte

    Me the Ce

    Position a rack in the center of the oven a

    heat the oven to 375F. Lightly butter and

    flour an 8x8x2-inch straight-sided cake p

    Ba gg igy in a small bowl. Whis

    the granulated sugar, brown sugar, milk, a

    vanilla until well blended. Set aside.

    In a ag bw, whisk the flour, baking powdtable salt, and cardamom until well blended

    Add the butter pieces and cut them into the

    flour with a pastry blender until the mixture

    resembles a very coarse meal strewn with

    pieces of butter the size of small peas and o

    flakes. Add the egg mixture to the flour. Wit

    a wooden spoon, fold and stir until you have

    thick batter speckled with visible lumps of

    butter, 45 seconds to 1 minute.

    scap ba into the prepared pan an

    spread it evenly. Break up the streusel mixtu

    with your fingers and sprinkle half of it evenl

    over the batter. Arrange the plum quarters s

    side down on the batter, with each piece at 45-degree angle to the sides of the pan. Spr

    the remaining streusel evenly over the cake

    Bak for 20 minutes and then rotate the

    Continue baking until the top of the cake

    golden brown and a toothpick inserted in

    center comes out with a few moist crumb

    clinging to it, another 15 to 20 minutes. Le

    the cake cool in its pan on a rack for at lea

    an hour before cutting. Serve warm or at

    room temperature.

    plum cofee cake with brown sugarand cardamom streusel

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    Deep-Fried Bacon and Eggs with Lemon and Egg Vinaigrette, p. 104

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    96 b k 2 0 1 1

    special occasions

    Puff pastrys light and airy texture comined

    with dense, earthy mushroom slices maes

    this a standout reafast addition.

    Svs 8

    Fr he Shr S1 bs. oliv oil

    1 bs. unsaltd butt

    1 lb. mixd fs musooms (ty 4 oz.siitak and 6 oz. ac cmini and witmusooms), wasd, timmd, andslicd inc tick

    2 clovs galic, mincd

    Kos salt and fsly gound blackppp

    2 bs. coppd fs flat-laf pasly

    Coppd fs bs, suc as tym, sag,and civs (optional)

    Fr he r

    1 st fozn puff pasty

    Flou, fo dusting

    1 gg, batn

    13 oz. ( cup) finly gatd Fontina

    S he ShrS

    Heat the oil and utter in a 12-inch saut pan

    or sillet over medium heat until the utter

    foams. dd the mushrooms and garlic. he

    mushrooms will quicly asor all the fat

    in the pan. prinle with tsp. salt and stir

    until the mushrooms start to release their

    moisture and egin to shrin, 2 to 3 minutes.

    Increase the heat to medium high so that

    you hear a steady sizzle; stir occasionally. In

    aout 5 minutes, when the liquid evaporatesand the mushrooms start to rown, give just

    an occasional sweep with the spoon (aout

    once a minute) to let the mushrooms rown

    nicely, cooing them another 2 to 4 minutes.

    esist the inclination to stir too often. urn off

    the heat and toss in the parsley and pepper

    to taste, adding more salt if needed. dd the

    other hers if using and set aside to cool.

    Ke he r

    Meanwhile, thaw the puff pastry at room

    temperature until pliale, 30 to 45 minutes.

    Position a ackin the center of the ovenand heat the oven to 425. Lightly dust a

    wor surface with flour. Unfold the pastrysheet and roll it into a rectangle thats aout

    10x15 inches and aout /6 inch thic. lide

    it onto a aing sheet lined with parchment.

    With the exception of aout an inch order

    around the rectangle, pric the pastry all over

    with a for. With a pastry rush, rush the

    eaten egg over the order (you wont need

    mushroom-fontina tart

    all of it). bae until the pastry egins to puff

    and the surface feels dry, aout 5 minutes.

    Scatt t musoom saut onto the

    pastry, leaving an inch or so of the orderuncovered. bae until the crust order is

    puffed and deeply golden rown, aout

    10 minutes. catter the cheese over the

    mushrooms and continue aing until

    the cheese melts, another 2 to 3 minutes.

    Let cool riefly on a rac efore slicing

    and serving.

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    f . 10

    hollandaise sauceHeres the trick to making this

    simple sauce: Whisk it over

    simmering water so the egg yolks

    cook gently and dont curdle.

    Yields about 1 cups

    4 large egg yolks

    2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

    tsp. Dijon mustard (optional)

    6 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter,

    melted

    Pinch of cayenne or a fewdrops

    of hot pepper sauce

    Kosher salt

    Position a largeheatproof bowl

    over a pot o barely simmering

    water, making sure the bottom o

    the bowl doesnt touch the water.

    n the bowl, whisk the yolks,lemon juice, and mustard (i

    using) until well combined.

    radually whisk in the butter in a

    thin stream and keep whisking

    until the sauce is thick enough or

    the whisk to leave tracks that

    hold or a couple o seconds, 1 to

    2 minutes. the sauce is too

    thick, whisk in a ew drops o hot

    water to thin it. Whisk in the

    cayenne or hot sauce and

    season to taste with salt. eep

    the sauce warm in its bowl set

    over the simmering water,

    whisking occasionally, until ready

    to use.

    start slowlyWhen whisking in the meltedbutter, start with a thin streamand slowly add it, to keep thesauce creamy.

    passionfruit andcitrus salad withcoconut meringues

    You can make this rereshing des-

    sert in minutes. Serve it with coconut

    meringues or a estive touch.

    Serves 4

    2 kiwis, peeled and sliced

    2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced

    2 blood oranges, peeled and sliced

    ripe star fruit, sliced

    /8 fresh pineapple, sliced/3 cup fresh orange juice

    2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

    tsp. sugar, preferably superfine;

    more to taste

    4 passionfruit

    Candied orange zest, for garnish(optional)

    Coconut meringues (recipe at right)

    In a large bowl, combine the slices o

    kiwi, mango, blood orange, star ruit,

    and pineapple. n a small bowl, stir the

    orange juice, lime juice, and sugar and

    pour this mixture over the ruit. Split the

    passionruit and either spoon the pulpand seeds over the sliced ruit, or strain

    the pulp to remove the seeds and then

    pour over the ruit. arnish with candied

    orange zest, i using. Serve with coconut

    meringues.

    coconut meringuesThese meringues can be made 1 day

    ahead o time and stored in an airtight

    container until ready to serve.

    Yields about 2 pieces,

    depending on size

    1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

    large egg whites

    6 Tbs. granulated sugar

    tsp. pure vanilla extract

    Position a rackin the center o the oven

    and heat the oven to 300f. Spread

    cup o the coconut lakes on a baking

    sheet. Bake until golden, about 5 min-

    utes. Lower oven to 200f.

    In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until

    they orm sot peaks. Slowly sprinkle in

    the sugar while beating until the whites

    are sti and glossy. fold in the vanilla and

    the remaining untoasted coconut.

    Use a pastry bagwith a large tip to

    pipe the meringue into shapes onto

    an ungreased or parchment-lined

    baking sheet. Sprinkle with the toasted

    coconut and bake or 1 hour. Turn o

    the oven and let the meringues dry in

    the oven until crisp, about 2 hours. Let

    the meringues cool completely beore

    removing them rom the sheet.

    get creativePipe the meringue into any shapeyou wish, rom kisses to logs.

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    Fh gg a t fo poaching

    technique

    A poply poached egg, pp. 12, 76, and 104, will hold togth and tnd, not tough. On tic to poaching thm? U fh gg.Th thic whit of a fh gg poach autifully without cat-

    ing all that m in th wat.

    test kitchen

    112 b r e A k F A s T 2 0 1 1

    sinning hazlnutTo in th hazlnut fo th waffleson p. 39, pad th nut in a ingllay on a aing ht and toat in a

    375F ovn until th in a motlyplit and th nut a light goldn

    own (th in will loo da) andfagant, aout 10 minut. Dont ov-

    toat o th nut will com itt.Wap th hot nut in a clan dihtowl

    and lt thm it fo 5 to 10 minut.Thn vigoouly u th nut againt

    thmlv in th towl to movmot of th in. Ty to gt at lat

    half of th in off. Thi may ta a lot

    of uing, o pitnt.

    technique

    How to capd fom avanilla anFo th vanilla an in th AppleBrown-Butter Jalousie on p. 57,hold th an at on nd and, uing apaing nif, plit th an lngthwi

    in half (if only half a an i calld fo,cut th whol an in half cowi

    fo plitting jut on of th halv).Thn lid th ac of th nif down

    th opnd o cut nd of th an andcap out th d.

    tip

    technique

    Youll pl, co, and thn dicth pa fo th Winter FruitSalad on p. 42. To co th pa,fit pl and cut it in half. Thn,

    u a mlon all to coop outth d and fiou co.

    Coing pa

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    ReciecaloRies(kcal)

    Fatcal(kcal)

    Rotein(g)

    caRb(g)

    totalFat (g)

    sat Fat(g)

    Mo noFat (g)

    olyFat (g)

    chol(Mg)

    sodiuM(Mg)

    Fib(g)

    bReakFast basics, p. 10

    Buttermilk Pancakes (per pancake) 110 30 3 16 3.5 1.5 1 0 30 170 0

    bReakFast dRinks, p. 16

    Masala Chai 50 15 1 8 1.5 1 0 0 5 20 0

    Sparkling Pomegranate Cocktail (based on 6 servings) 130 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 5 0

    Classic Strawberry-Banana Smoothie 110 5 2 25 0.5 0 0 0 0 20 3

    Orange Slush (