Final Content Dress Designing for Women V2.docx

8/18/2019 Final Content Dress Designing for Women V2.docx

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Contents

Topic 1: Knowing basics of stitching.............................................................3

Temporary Stitch..............................................................................................3

Permanent Stitch.............................................................................................. 4

Topic 2: Basic Embroidery Stitches...............................................................8

Introduction to Embroidery...............................................................................8

Types of Embroidery Stitches...........................................................................8

Topic 3: Knowledge in Sewing Machine and Maintenance......................10

Parts of Sewing achine.................................................................................10

!ommon achine Prob"ems...........................................................................11

Topic : Stitching and its !e"nement # Tools and E$%ipments.............1#

Important Terms for !utting $ Tai"oring..........................................................1#

Too"s and E%uipment......................................................................................1&

Topic &: Body Meas%rement.........................................................................'0

ethod of !orrect easuring.........................................................................'0

Precautions to be ta(en before easurement................................................'0

easuring !hart.............................................................................................''

Topic ': (rinciples of )rafting Method.......................................................'4

)rafting ethods............................................................................................'4

Termino"ogy used in )rafting..........................................................................'4

Topic *: (rinciples of (aper (atterns..........................................................'4Introduction....................................................................................................'4

*ene+ts of Paper Pattern................................................................................ '4

Precautions whi"e ma(ing Paper Pattern.........................................................'4

Topic +: ,%ndamentals methods of C%tting and Stitch............................'#

Instructions for sewing................................................................................... '#

Topic -: Sewing of (etticoat.........................................................................'&

ethod........................................................................................................... '&

)rafting of (etticoat..................................................................................'&Topic 1.: Sewing of /ehnga..........................................................................',

ethod........................................................................................................... ',

)rafting of -ehnga..........................................................................................',

Topic 11: )i0erent Type of ec (attern...................................................'

)emonstration with Picture............................................................................'

Topic 12: Sewing of K%rta.............................................................................30

ethod........................................................................................................... 30

)rafting of /urta.............................................................................................31


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Topic 13: Sewing of Salwar...........................................................................3'

ethod........................................................................................................... 3'

)rafting of Sa"war...........................................................................................33

Topic 1: Sewing of Blo%se...........................................................................34

ethod........................................................................................................... 34

Topic 1&: Sewing of Blo%se...........................................................................3&

ethod........................................................................................................... 3&

)ra+ng of !ho"icut *"ouse.............................................................................. 3,

Topic 1': Bag Maing.....................................................................................38

ethod of a(ing *ag....................................................................................38

)rafting of *ag............................................................................................... 38

Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 1: Knowing basics of stitchingTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (ractical


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Content: Types of Stitching4ntrod%ction: To stitch a bea%tif%l garment 5ario%s steps ha5e to be %ndertaetaing meas%rements and c%tting the cloth accordingly8 we need to stitch thepieces together with the help of di0erent types of stitches6 7ttaching two pieces of cloth together with the help of a needle and thread8 by taing the t

needle %p and down thro%gh two pieces of cloth is what forms a stitch6 Carbe taen to thread only a re$%isite amo%nt of thread thro%gh the needle sdoes not tangle at the time of forming stitches6 /ie any other profession8 also has some basic r%les and tenets following which is an absol%te mfollowing are some of these r%les:4t is necessary to ha5e nowledge abo%t basic stitches before proceeding to ca garment beca%se:

a To mae c%t pieces of fabric into a garment one has to attach them with thestitches lie basting6

b There are 5ario%s types of fabric a5ailable in the maret today6 To be able to of them s%ccessf%lly8 we need to hold them together temporarily6 ,or e6g6 ylosils etc6

7t times the basic stitches are %sed to gi5e a neat "nish to the garment lie h

Types of Stitching:

Temporary Stitch: Temporary stitches are those that are %sed to loosely attpieces of cloth to ens%re that pieces "t together8 darts are appearing at tpoints6 These stitches are opened o%t after stitching the garment6 These alsoeep pieces in places while being These are of 5ario%s types8 lie:

1 Basting stitch: This is %sed to pieces of cloth together6 This

eep slippery material in a stratogether while stitching6

Method: Basting is done %sing a single thread6 7fter threading the needleappropriate length of thread8 the needle is taen in and o%t of the two piecesat some distance8 thro%gho%t the re$%ired length1a6 E5en basting: 7ll stitches are of e$%al length6 This is achie5ed by taing a$%antity of thread for the %pward as well as downward stitch8 at e$%al distanc1b6 ne5en basting: 7ll the stitches are at 5arying distance b%t of the samei6e6 the length of thread taen for %pward and downward stitch is the samdi0erent distance from each other61c6 ;ig


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garment is stitched6 This is %sed when yo% cannot %se a pencil or chal8 to mcloth6 Sewed in a 5ery loose manner8 one stitch is small8 and the ne=t one lar%s%ally made with a do%ble thread8 b%t is always made on a do%ble layered clstitches are ad9oining to each other6 Made in a loose manner8 the needle is tafrom a determined distance and then again inserted in the same position a

the second stitch taen with a certain looseness in the thread6

3. )iagonal Stitch: )iagonal bastseries of horioats of threatop layer of fabric6 This stitchoften %sed in tailoring to hollayers together ?not along a line@6 The stitches control the sh

fabric d%ring pressing8 "tting and constr%ction6

(ermanent Stitch

16 Aemming: sed on almostgarment6 Can be replaced by r%nning stitch also8 b%t to enh

bea%ty of a garment8 hemming is %sed as a most important stitch6 This iin5isible on the right side of the garment and as 5ery small stitches on thside6

Method: 7s single thread is p%t in the needle and a 5ery small margin of thetaen or a single strand taen from the t%rned in s%rface6 The needle isthro%gh the single strand and thro%gh the s%rface of the cloth to gi5e a ne

and "nishing to%ch6 sed on slee5es8 nec8 sirts etc6


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'. Bac Stitch: sed to attpieces of cloth together8 byhandmade stitch6 4t has besince the time when the

was not yet in in5ented6 This isto ha5e greater >e=ibility andstrong6 This stitch can alsoeasily on a bias clothimportant %se is on

pa9amas8 the stitch is di0erent from its right and wrong side6

Method: 7 crease is created on the edge of the two pieces of cloth that nee 9oined together6 7 small margin is taen on top and bottom and small stitchclose together6

3. B%tton Aole: f %tmost importance in the tailoring trade8 as it is %sed on atypes of garments ladies8 menDs and children6 There is a need to eep an somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taing o06 Most

openings are closed with the help of b%ttonhole stitches6 The b%tton hole imade on the top portion6 The b%ttonhole stitch is %sed to "nish the b%ttonis made on two or more layers of cloth6 The b%tton hole has a slight c%r5eside nown as the fan and an edge on the other nown as the bar6

Method: ,irst choose the distance between each b%tton hole6 Then eepdiameter of the b%tton in mind8 %se the tip of a scissor to c%t holes in the cens%re that no8 loose strands come o%t "nish the edge with a temporar7lways c%t the b%tton hole in the direction of the grain line6 Then %sing thread "nish the edge with a b%ttonhole stitch eeping a little e=tra tensiofanD side to mae a ind of chain stitch is then pressed down once the b%tto"nished6

4. Eyelets: 7 hoo and eye is %sed as an o%tFofFsight clos%re on garmentsd%ty hoo and eyes are %sed on the waistband of tro%sers6 This clos%re

and pro5ides a strong sec%re hold6 Smaller hoo and eyes are %sed on gar


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pre5ent gaps s%ch as at the top of a


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Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 2: Basic Embroidery StitchesTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: Chain8 Stem8 Blanet and Aerring Bone

4ntrod%ction to Embroidery:• Aoops are made of metal8 plastic or wood8 and come in di0erent sioss6 The smaller the si


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3. Blanet Stitch: The blanet stitch is a stitch %sed to reinforce the edge of thic

materials6 )epending on circ%mstances8 it may also be called a whip stitch ora crochet stitch6 4t is de"ned as H7

decorati5e stitch %sed to "nishan %nhemmed blanet6 The stitchcan be seen on both sides of theblanet6HI

4. Aerring Bone: 4t is a stitching pattern consisting of col%mns of short parallel lines8with all the lines in one col%mn sloping one way and all the lines in the ne=tcol%mn sloping the other way so as to resemble the bones in a "sh8 for e=ample as%sed in the wea5e of cloth6

Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 3: Knowledge in Sewing Machine and MaintenanceTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (ractical

Content: (arts of Machine with )iagram

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blanket_stitch#cite_note-1https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blanket_stitch#cite_note-1


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Parts of Sewing achine

It is important for the beginner to (now and recogni2e the dierent parts of the sewing

7rm The hori2onta" upper part of the head which has the mechanism

hand"ing upper thread and driing the need"e.Bac Stitch/e5er

5 "eer "ocated at the "ower right hand side of the machine and its bafunction is to form the stitches in reerse direction.

Bed The "ower portion of the machine i.e. stands under which the mechanifor hand"ing "ower thread inc"uding the shutt"e and feed are mounted.

Bobbin 5 sma"" meta" spoo" that ho"ds the "ower thread supp"y.BobbinCase

The meta" case that ho"ds the bobbin. It has the tension spring tcontro"s the pressure on the bobbin thread.

Bobbininder

It is a simp"e mechanism for winding the thread on the bobbin and"ocated at the right hand side near the whee".

,eed )og 5 sma"" meta" deice under the presser foot which has teeth which carrthe materia" a"ong as it is stitched. It moes the materia" forward6 by ostitch "ength6 after each stitch has been drawn.

Aandheel

7ande" is "ocated on the right side of the machine. It is drien by handbe"t in the domestic machine and with the he"p of be"t in the industrmachine. It contro"s the moement of the need"e bar and dries tmachine.

Aand /ifter To "ift the presser foot by hand.Aead The upper part of the machine aboe the stand. It is a comp"ete sew

machine without the bed.Knee /ifter To "ife the presser foot by (nee.eedle Bar 5 bar at the end of which the need"e is attached.(an It is the meta" pan under the head that catches oi"6 "int6 bro(en threads.

(resser,oot

5 foot which is used to ho"d the fabric whi"e stitching. It is detachab"e adierent types of foot are aai"ab"e for dierent functions e.g. 2ipper fop"astic foot.

(resser,oot /ifter

5 "eer attached to the presser bar to "ift up $ down the presser foot.

Sh%ttle 5 deice that carries the need"e thread around the bobbin and forms t"oc( on the "oc( stitch.


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Stitch!eg%lator

The "ength of the stitches is determined by graduation mar(s on tstitch regu"ating screw. 5s you increase the numbers on regu"ator tnumber of stitches per inch increases i.e. the si2e of the stitchdecreases and iceersa.

Tension

!eg%lator

It is a mechanism which contro"s the tension of upper thread and t

%ua"ity of stitches. The tension of the thread is ad9usted with the he"pspring and nut which contro"s the pressure on the disc.

ThreadStand orSpool (in

It is a meta" rod +tted either on top or on side of the stand to ho"d tthread spoo".

ThreadTae p/e5er

5 bar:"eer which is "ocated aboe the tension regu"ator. It moes up adown. It has a ho"e through which the thread passes. It feeds threadthe need"e and it a"so tightens "oop formed and "oc(s it.

Throat(late

5 semicircu"ar disc with a ho"e to a""ow need"e to pass through it and ahas mar(ing in some cases which are used as guide"ines whi"e stitching

!ommon achine Prob"ems

The trainee needs to understand the common prob"ems that may be there whi"e seshou"d be ab"e to rectify these as they are common and irritating and s"ow down thprocess. 5 person operating the machine shou"d be ab"e to rectify these and so"e the p

1. *obbin

1a. )oes not wind a(e sure the thread is wrapped around the bobbin in proper !hec( to see if bobbin has been p"aced proper"y in the winder. The rubber ring mighout and needs to be rep"aced.

1b. ;inds uneen"y The thread may not be inserted in the thread guide.


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worn out.

'd. Shows feed mar( on the underside Presser foot pressure may be too heay.need to put tissue paper between the fabric and the feed The feed may be damagtoo high.

'e. >abric is damaged or ho"es around the stitches =eed"e may be b"unt or too wrong type for the fabric !hec( for the nic( in the throat p"ate6 foot or feed

3. achine

3a. otor does not run !ord is not p"ugged ?@ Power stitch o or /nee ?@ foot acmay be 9ammed or improper"y attached to power source.

3b. otor runs but hand whee" does not turn Thread or "int may be caught or tangbobbin case area.

3c. otor runs6 hand whee" turns6 but need"e does not moe The need"e may hdisengaged for bobbin winding and not tightened bac( to sewing position. If need"e tightened but sti"" does not moe6 the motor be"t is s"ipping because it is "oose or wor

3d. otor6 hand whee" and need"e moes but fabric does not feed a(e sure the pris down or !hec( the stitch "ength regu"ator ?@ The pressure regu"ator may at the "epressure. If fabric is heay6 more pressure may be necessary for fabric to feed ?@ dog may be in the "owered or AdownB position

3e. otor6 hand whee"6 need"e and fabric moes but no stitch is formed

•

Thread may hae come out of the need

• =eed"e may be threaded in the wrong direction

• =eed"e may be inserted bac(ward or may not be pushed a"" the way up into the c

• =eed"e may be the wrong "ength for the machine

• achine may be threaded incorrect"y

• *obbin may be empty

• *obbin and : or case may be inserted incorrect"y

• The timing of the machine might be o

3f. @uns s"uggish"y

• *obbin winder may sti"" be engaged

• /nee or foot contro" might be improper"y positioned

• achine may be in need of oi"ing and : or c"eaning


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3g. @uns noisi"y

• achine probab"y needs oi"ing and : or c"eaning

• The need"e cou"d be bent and hitting against foot or throat p"ate

• *obbin and : or case may not be tight enough

• *obbin may be a"most out of thread.

3h. ;i"" not stitch in reerse

• If machine is ery o"d6 it may not hae this capabi"ity

• If it is a recent mode"6 chec( the stitch contro". If may be set for Astretch s

Abuttonho"eB6 sometimes these stitches cannot be reersed manua""y.

4. =eed"e

4a. Cnthreads

• InsuDcient thread may hae been pu""ed through the need"e before the seam wa

• achine may be out of top thread

4b. *rea(s

•


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• Pressure on the presser foot cou"d be either too "ight or too heay for the fabric

• There cou"d be "int or other c"og between the teeth of the feed dog

#b. 7ae "oops between them

• If the "oops are "arge6 the machine is improper"y threaded

• If "oops are sma"" tensions are unba"anced

• *obbin may be wound uneen"y

• There may not be enough pressure to ho"d the fabric taut during stitch formation

&. Thread

&a. =eed"e thread brea(s

• Csua""y this is caused by the need"e being inserted bac(ward or threaded bac(wa

• Thread may be caught in the spoo" notch or it cou"d be wrapped around the spind

• There may be a rough or burred p"ace on a thread guide

• The need"e may be b"unt

• =eed"e may not be a"" the way up into the c"amp

• =eed"e may be too +ne for the thread6 causing it to frayoften the case buttonho"e twist

&b. *obbin thread brea(s

• *obbin case may not be threaded proper"y and : or the case not inserted proper"y

• *obbin may be too fu""

• !hec( for dirt or c"og in the bobbin case

•

*obbin tension may be too tight

&c. *obbin thread cannot be raised through ho"e in throat p"ate

• *obbin case may be improper"y threaded.

• It may not hae been proper"y inserted


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Trade: )ress )esigning for omen

Topic : Stitching and its !e"nement # Tools and E$%ipmentsTeaching (edagogy: TheoryContent: Terminology in C%tting

4mportant Terms for C%tting # Tailoring

16 )art: itho%t spoiling the shape of the garment8 and in order to gi5e a perfect "t8a small amo%nt of cloth is folded and stitched with a single strand till the other end6This process is called p%tting a dart6 4t is %sed at 5ario%s places on the garment lieb%st dart8 waist dart etc6 to gi5e "tting or f%llness to shape6

26 ,ish )art: This is p%t at the bac in lower body garments lie shorts8 tro%sers8slacs6 4ts shape is lie a "sh8 hence the name6 4t taes an ang%lar shape after being

p%t straight for some distance6

36 (leats: 7 fold taen from the inside of a garment and held in place by a stitch isnown as a pleat6 These are of many types lie straight pleats8 in5erted pleats etc6These are %sed either as a design element or to pro5ide f%llness or "tting6


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4. T%cs: ,olding the cloth a little from the right side and stitching in a straight line isnown as p%tting a t%c6 This is also %sed to enhance the bea%ty of the garment orto pro5ide a better "t6 4f these stitched lines appear of the thicness of a pin then

they are nown as pin t%cs6

#. ,rills: 7 circ%lar r%Je is created from a circ%lar piece of fabric rather than astraight strip6 To mae circ%lar r%Jes8 the %se of a paper pattern is recommended6Thread a needle with a thread that is at least one foot longer than the length yo%need to gather down to6 ,or e=ample8 if yo% need to gather a length of ribbon to +inches ?2.63 cm@ long8 yo% will need at least 2. inches ?&.6+ cm@ of thread6 Tie anot on the end of yo%r thread6

Tools and E$%ipment

16 (encil # Sharpener: ecessary for pattern maing6

26 Tracing heel: Transfers m%slin pattern to paper and paper pattern to fabric6


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36 Straight Meter Scale : ,or meas%re Meas%ring on fabric6

6 Eraser: onFd%st eraser6&6 Maring Chal: sed for maring fabric6

'6 (aper Scissors : To c%t paper patterns

,. ,abric Scissors : To c%t fabrics


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8. Scale : ,or maing the patterns. Meas%ring Tape: ,or meas%ring form or "g%re6

1.6 il (ins : To eep fabrics in place

11.C%tting Table: To c%t fabric %sing c%tting table6

126 (attern (aper: To draw pattern %sing this paper6


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Basic Sewing Tools:

Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic &: Body Meas%rementTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: Body Meas%rement and its (reca%tions


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Method of Correct Meas%ring: The "tting of any cloth depends on right "tting6 ntilthe c%stomerDs proper meas%rement are not taen in note boo8 the same will be notbe c%t as his hisher si


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the waist6Sho%lder to

waist length

?front@

This meas%re is taen on the front8 o5erN the sho%lder

?e=actly at the base of the nec@8 going down 5ertically

along the front8 passing it o5er the prominent part of the

b%st and to the point where the lace is tied aro%nd the

waist6B%st Aeight 4t is taen on the front8 o5erN the sho%lder8 e=actly at the

base of the nec8 going down 5ertically to the tip of the

b%st67rm /ength 4t is taen along the folded arm8 from the sho%lder or base

of the arm8 to the prominent bone of the wrist ?c%0s@6Elbow /ength 4t is taen from the sho%lder to the tip of the elbow67ro%nd arm 4t is taen on the wider part of the arm8 going aro%nd it

completely67ro%nd hip 4t is to be taen tightly on the most prominent part of the

gl%te%s or hip6Meas%rementaro%nd half hipheight

!ight on the half of the pre5io%s hip height meas%rement8the hip is to be meas%red aro%nd6

Total leg length 4t is to be taen on the side8 from the lace aro%nd the waistdown to the anle6 The tape meas%re sho%ld be close to thebody especially on the hip6

4nside leglength

4t is taen on the front8 from the light between the legs?crotch@8 along the inside of the leg and down to the anle6

7ro%nd the leg 4t is taen on the middle of the leg8 on the thicer part andaro%nd it6

/ength of nee 4t is to be taen on the side8 from the lace aro%nd the waistand down to the nee8 eeping the tape close to the bodyespecially at the hip6

Total height (erson m%st be witho%t shoes6 4t is taen from the highestpart of the head and down to the >oor6


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Meas%ring Chart

16 ChildrenDs Meas%ring Chart

7ge

Chest

aist Aip

Sho%lder ec

Slee5es

Sho%lder toaist

,roc/ength

ic er/ength

/egging/ength

1year

1+H'cm

1+H'cm

1+H'cm

+H2.cm

-H23cm

1.H2&cm

*H1+cm

1&HF1'H3+F1cm

+H 2.cm

1'HF1+H1F'cm

1F2year

2.H&1cm

2.H&1cm

2.H&1cm

+6&H22cm

-6&H2&cm

11H2+cm

*6&O1-cm

1'OF1+H1F'cm

-H 23cm

1+HF2.H'F&1cm


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3Fyear

22H&'cm

22H&'cm

22H&'cm

-H23cm

1.H2&cm

12H31 cm

+H21cm

2.HF22H&1F&'cm

1.H2&cm

2.HF22H&1F&'cm

&F'year

2H'1cm

22H&'cm

2H'1cm

1.H2&cm

11H2+cm

1H3'cm

-H23cm

2H'.cm

12H31cm

22HF2H&'F'1cm

*F+year

2'H''cm

23H&+cm

2+H*1cm

11H2+cm

116&H2-cm

1*H3cm

1.H2&cm

2'H''cm

13H33cm

2'HF2+H''F*1cm

-F1.year

2*H'+cm

2H'1cm

3.H*-cm

12H31cm

126&H32cm

1-H+cm

116&H2-cm

2+H*1cm

1H3*cm

2+HF3.H*1F*'cm

11F12year

2+H*1cm

2HF2&H'1F'*cm

32H+1cm

13H33cm

13H33cm

21H&cm

13H33cm

3.H**cm

16&H3*cm

3.HF32H*'F+1cm

26 omenDs Meas%ring Chart

7geChest

aist Aip

Sho%lder ec

Slee5es

Sho%lder toaist

,roc/ength

Blo%se/ength

13F

1years

3.H*'cm

2&H'cm

33H+cm

13H33cm

13H33cm

21H&cm

13H33cm

32HF3H +1F+' cm

136&H3&cm

1&F1'years

32H+1cm

2'H''cm

3&H+-cm

136&H3&cm

136&H3&cm

22H&'cm

136&H3&cm

3&H+-cm

136&H3&cm

1*F1+years

33H+cm

2'6&H'*cm

3'H-1cm

136&H3&cm

136&H3&cm

22H&'cm

136&H3&cm

3'H-1cm

1H3'cm

1-F2.years

3H+'cm

2*H'-cm

3*H-cm

1H3'cm

1H3'cm

22H&'cm

1H3'cm

3*H-cm

1H3'cm

21F22years

3&H++cm

2*6&H*.cm

3+H-*cm

1H3'cm

1H3'cm

226&H&+cm

16&H3*cm

3+H-*cm

16&H3*cm

23F2years

3'H-1cm

2+H*1cm

.H1.2cm

1H3'cm

1H3'cm

23H&+cm

1&H3+cm

.H1.2cm

1&H3+cm


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Topic ': (rinciples of )rafting MethodTeaching (edagogy: TheoryContent: Terminology %sed in )rafting)rafting Methods: 4n order to %nderstand the drafts gi5en in this content boo8information is written below to draw drafts con5eniently6 The lines in drafting arebasis for drafts6 These lines does not change6

Terminology %sed in )rafting:

1. ChestPCA: sed for children and men'. Breast ! B%stP B: sed for women3. aistP

4. AipPA: sed for women and children#. SeatPS: sed for men&. ecP,. )art to )artP ) to )8. Sho%lder to )artP S to ). at%ral aistP 610.Slee5e /engthPS6/t11.Slee5e BottomPS6B1'.KneeP Knee13.BottomPB14.,%ll /engthP,6 /t


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Topic *: (rinciples of (aper (atternsTeaching (edagogy: TheoryContent: Bene"ts of (aper (attern # (reca%tions4ntrod%ction: (attern of a garment is the bl%e print on the basis of the fabric is c%t6The patterns can be prepared %sing strong brown papers8 newspapers for ro%ghdrafts8 strong white paper which is a5ailable in a 5ariety of weights and widths8tracing paper or b%tter paper may be %sed to de5elop patterns6 7 basic pattern of agarment can be prepared by one of these two methods: F by drafting F by drapingfabric on a model or person concerned )rafting may be de"ned as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision8 on the basis of bodymeas%rements6 The basic pattern de5eloped on paper may be modi"ed to de5eloppatterns for 5aried styles6 This is also called as >at pattern designing6 This issometimes called as the third type of preparing patterns that is rather imprecise6The basic pattern is also referred to as sloper8 bloc8 and master or fo%ndationpattern6

Bene"ts of (aper (attern

1. Sa5es time'. 4denti"es mistae3. Maing design4. ,easible layo%t#. Keep pattern paper permanently&. Correct (aper c%t

(reca%tions while maing (aper (attern

1. (aper pattern sho%ld be in f%ll scale'. (aper pattern sho%ld be made on ro%gh side of paper3. ote boo sho%ld be ept in front while maing pattern4. (attern sho%ld be made in clear and sharp line#. (attern sho%ld be made from sharp chalpencil&. Erase wrong lines with the help of r%bber,. 4nspection sho%ld be done before drafting8. !echec yo%r drafting. (aper pattern sho%ld be folded


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Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic +: ,%ndamentals methods of C%tting and Stitch

Teaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: ,%ndamentals methods of C%tting and Stitch*efore going for cutting of any fabric6 there are some precautions which needs to be ta(en careof for better %ua"ity and +nishing. >o""owing points shou"d be considered whi"e cutting of fabric

1. Pre assessment of fabric before cutting'. >abric re"ated inspection

'a. !hec( fabric'b. Printed fabric'c. Pi"e fabric

3. ar( on opposite side of fabric from cha"(:penci"4. Paper pattern re"ated

#. *a"ance mar(&. Scissors

Instructions for sewing

1. ar( )arts6 p"eats6 turning with the he"p of tracing whee" on other parts of the fabric'. ?n )arts and p"eats6 use basting stitch for facing and design to understand whether it has

been done right or wrong3. Prepare design +rst and then stitch shou"ders4. 5fter shou"der6 sew nec(#. 5fter nec(6 go for s"eees and remaining parts&. !hec( machines stitch on waste fabric,. Cse of iron simu"taneous"y on darts6 p"eats6 poc(et for better +nishing8. !ut thread together for better +nishing. Cse scissor for cutting thread


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Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic -: Sewing of (etticoatTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (ractical

Content: Sewing of (etticoat ?+ paneled@7 petticoat or %ndersirt is an article of clothingQ speci"cally an %ndergarment to beworn %nder a sirt or a dress6 The petticoat is a separate garment hanging from thewaist

Method:

1. Meas%re the top of the petticoat ?waist line@and c%t a waist band 7BC) 'N wide and lengthe$%al to the top of the petticoat R 4N6

'. ,old N on ends 7FC and BF) of the waist bandand stitch6

3. ,old N along 7FB and CF) and crease4. pen the side 7FB and attach it to the petticoat

top from inside6

#. Keep right side of the band and the wrongside of the petticoat together and stitch onthe crease made earlier6

'6 ,old the band length wise stitch the edge CF) to

the waist line so that the fold 9%st co5ers the

machine stitching at the waist line6

)rafting of (etticoat:

Meas%rement:

aist: 2+NAip: 3'N/ength: .N

Trade: )esigning for omenTopic 1.: Sewing of /ehngaTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (ractical

Content: Sewing of /ehnga with M%g9i


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Material !e$%ired

Cotton or any fancy fabricF 6&m

Meas%rements

a. !o%nd hip

b. !o%nd waist

c. ,%ll length

Method

1. 7PBC is f%ll length F'N ?2N for belt6 N for m%g9i@6

'. )i5ide ro%nd waist into + e$%al parts6

3. C) P E P 112th of the hip R 1N

4. ), P ,%ll lengthF'H8 E P ,%ll length F'H

Belt

1. 4 P KM P is 2N on fold6

'. 4K P M is waist2 R1N on fold6

M%g9i

1. C%t + pieces of fabric on bias grain then 9oin them with ,rench seam6

Then 9oin these pieces to the hem line of lehnga with the help of piping on both thesides6

)rafting of /ehnga


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Topic 11: )i0erent Type of ec (attern


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Teaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: )i0erent Type of ec (attern)emonstration with (ict%re:

Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 12: Sewing of K%rtaTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (ractical

Content: Sewing of K%rta ?(lain@


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Materials !e$%ired

7ny cotton or cotton 5ariant which has a comfortable feel8

appro=imately 2 m6

Meas%rements

a. 7cross sho%lder

b. Chest

c. /ength re$%ired

Method ,ront

1. )raw a 5ertical line from point 7 to B i6e6 the total length of the

%rta6

'. n the line 7B mar C from 7 i6e6 1th of chest 1N

3. n the same line8 mar ) from point 7 i6e6 1'th of chest6

4. ,rom point 7 mar A on the line 7B i6e6 the waist le5el and A/ is e$%al to 1th of

waist R 1N

#. A to E is on the same line and is *H ?chest F2H@

&. ET is e$%al to 1th of hip R 1N

,. ,rom point 7 go 1N down for the sho%lder drop to point U6

8. 74 is e$%al to 112th of chest6

. oin 4(8 it is also parallel to 7)6

10.U is half of sho%lder meas%rement

11. oin 4

1'.,rom point C mar point K across hori


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4. )istance from 71 to 7 is &N which is also e$%al to 7 and 726

#. oin B1 to 8 71 and B18 B2 and 8 72 and B26

&. C1 and C2 are mid points of B1 and B26

,. Similarly )1 and )2 are mid points of C1B1 and C2B26

8. oin these points with a slight c%r5e as shown in the g%re6The armhole of the front bloc will always be deeper in the c%r5e than the bac6

)rafting of K%rta:

Trade : )ress )esigning for omenTopic 13: Sewing of SalwarTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (ractical

Content: Sewing of Salwar with Belt


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Material !e$%ired

Cotton fabric that is well8 appro=imately 26& m

Meas%rements

a. Aip

b. /ength of Salwar

c. Bottom pening

Method Belt

1. ,rom point mar 7 which is 1'th of hip R 1N

'. 7gain from point mar C8 this is 12 of hip R &N6

3. oin CB and 7 ?CBP7@ and ?7BPC@

,ront

1. ,rom point A mar / at a distance of +D6

'. ,rom / mar K which will be the total length desired

/ength of the belt6

3. /K P A4

4. /A P K4

Side (anel

1. ,rom point ) mar E which is 13rd of hip R 2N Belt6

'. ,rom ) mar U is 12 of width of fabric6

3. U, wo%ld be e$%al in length as A46

4. ,W is 1N6 (CA7

#. ,rom point M mar 8 this is -N6

&. ,rom point ( mar L8 this is -6*&N6

,. ML P 1N6

Constr%ction

1. Mar the fabric on fold6

'. Keeping the sel5edge on the straight grain8 c%t the length6


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3. 7ccording to the gi5en meas%rements mar the Belt6

4. Seam allowance is incl%ded6

#. C%t the fabric and attach the side seams with at fell seam6

&. nce the legs are attached8 attach the belt eeping right side together and nish it

with ,lat ,ell6

,. The %pper side of the belt will be folded twice and the edge will be sec%red with a

top stitch and insert a draw string6

)rafting of Salwar


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T5 Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 1: Sewing of Blo%seTeaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: Sewing of Blo%se ?Simple with Belt@

ntrod%ction: There are many 5arieties of Sari blo%ses ranging from those with Xlee5es to the slee5eless and the blo%se length can also 5ary from 5ery short to waist

ength6 Since the Sari blo%se is a tight "tting garment it is 5ery critical to tae the

meas%rements caref%lly and get a good c%stom "t6 E=plained here is the basic

method of drafting a sari blo%se6

Meas%rement:

1. Chest'. ,%ll length of blo%se3. Sho%lder4. Slee5e length#. Slee5e ro%nd

&. ,ront ro%nd,. aist ro%nd

Method:

• ,ront 7 to BP front length R N6

• 7 to C P sho%lder R YN

• n the line 7FB mar ) s%ch that 7F) PY chest F1YN or 1N6

• 7F) is called scye depth6 4t 5aries with chest meas%rement6 4t can be

calc%lated %sing the chest meas%rement6 4t can also be meas%red directly on

the body6 4t is meas%red from the nape of the nec downwards to a line that

9oins armpits6

Bac:

• 7FB P,%ll length of the blo%se R1N

• 7F) is scye depth P same as scye depth of front the blo%se6

• )raw perpendic%lars from 78) and B6 7FCP sho%lder R YN

• Mar )FEPY chest R1N6 Mar , s%ch that BF, P )FE6 4F ,PN 6oin EF46


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Slee5es:

• 7FBP slee5e length R N6

• KF7 P1Hfor folding6 ,rom the points B 8 7 and K draw perpendic%lars6

• B FC is as 7F) P scye depth of the body taen while drawing body draft R H to

1

Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 1&: Sewing of Blo%se


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Teaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: Sewing of Blo%se ?Cholic%t@ateria" @e%uired

>abric 1m

7oo(s

Meas%rement!e$%ired

. -ength c.!hes

t

.5crossshou"der d.

;ais

t

ethod >ront

. ar( point ?F6 which is the "ength of b"ouse.

. ?* is the 1:&th of chest G 1B.

. *7 is 1:4th of chest G1B.

. ?E is 1:1'th of chest.

. ?) is 1B.

. )H is 1:' of across shou"der.

. !S is e%ua" to 1:1'th of chest.

. E> is 1:&th of chest 1B.

. ?! is 1:&th of chest.

0.oin >!.

1.ar( point T on *7 "ine which is ha"f of across shou"der.

'.5I is 1:4th of waist G1.#B.

3.F5 is 1.#B.

4.F@ is 3B.

#.FI1 J 5 is 1:4th of chest G 1B

&.oin 7 with I with straight "ine.

,.5/ is 1:1'th of chest and dart width is 1B.

8.IP is '.#B.

.KP is 3:4 A

0.- is apeL point.

1.- is 1B. 5nd T= is 1.#B.

'.oin H76 >=P 6P/@ with >rench cure.

*ac(

. CM is the "ength of b"ouse.

. CN is 1:&th of chest G 1O.

. ;C is 1B6 ;< is ha"f of across shou"der.

. CF1 is 1:1'th of chest.

. CE1 is 1:1'th of chest

. N71 is 1:4th of chestG1:'B.

. oin E1<

. M1 is 1:4th of waist G1.#B.

. MM1 is 1:1'th of chest G1:'B.

0.;1 is apeL point.


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1.oin rench cure.

'.oin 71 1 with straight "ine.

*e"t

. ?1 !1 is 1:1'th of chest.

. *1 is midpoint of ?1 !1

. !1 51 is 1:4th of waist.

)rafting of !ho"icut *"ouse

Trade: )ress )esigning for omenTopic 1': Bag Maing


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Teaching (edagogy: Theory and (racticalContent: Bag Maing ?Tote Bag@

Method of Maing Bag: ,irst we c%t all the red fabric pieces6 7 total of + pieces:

• pieces of ''cm = 3 cm ?2&8-+″ = 181+″@ to mae the handles ?each handle is

made by 9oining 2 of this pieces and sewing them together@

• 2 pieces to reinforce the handles of the bag6 3&cm = 2cm ?138*+″ = .8*-″@

• (l%s 2 e=tra pieces of the main part to mae the lining

)rafting of Bag:

Final Content Dress Designing for Women V2.docx

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Transcript of Final Content Dress Designing for Women V2.docx