Fibre to garments overview

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AN OVERVIEW OF PROCESSES INVOLVED IN THE CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO GARMENTS Prof. R. B. CHAVAN Former Professor, I I T Delhi, Consultant, Mahatma Gandhi Inst. of Rural Ind. Wardha E-mail [email protected]

Transcript of Fibre to garments overview

Page 1: Fibre  to garments overview

AN OVERVIEW OF PROCESSES INVOLVED IN THE CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO GARMENTS

Prof. R. B. CHAVAN

Former Professor, I I T Delhi,

Consultant,

Mahatma Gandhi Inst. of Rural Ind.

Wardha

E-mail [email protected]

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CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES

Natural Synthetic Regenerated

Vegetable Animal

Polyester Viscose Rayon

Cotton Silk Nylon

Jute Wool Acrylic

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Natural fibres

• Cellulosic fibres1. Seed hairs: Cotton, Kapok

2. Bast fibres: Flax, Ramie, Hemp, Jute, Sunn, Kenaf

3. Leaf fibres: Abaca, Pineapple, Sisal (Agave), Palm

4. Fruit: Coir

Mineral: Asbestos

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Natural Protein fibres

• Animal hair fibres• Wool (Sheep)• Speciality hair fibres: Alpaca, Camel, Cashmere, Mohair

(Angora Goat), • Fur fibres: Mink, Muskrat, Rabbit

• Animal Secretion• Silk fibre: Mulberry, Tussar, Moga, Erie• Spider silk

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Regenerated natural fibres

• Rayon • Cuprammonium• Viscose: Regular, high tenacity, high wet modulus,

hollow fibres, polynosic, lyocell • Acetate: Secondary acetate, Tri acetate• Regenerated Protein: Casein, Zein, Peanut, Soyabean• Miscellaneous: alginate

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Synthetic fibres

• Condensation polymers• Polyamide• Nylon 6, 66, 11• Aramide : Quiana, Kevlar, Nomex• Polyester• Aromatic: Polyethylene terephthalate (PET)• Aliphatic Poly lactic acid (PLA)• Addition polymers• Acrylic, modacrylic• Olehene fibres: Polyethylene, polypropelene• Saran• Vinal• Vinyon

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Fibre Yarn Fabric

Garment or other ready made forms.

STEPS INVOLVED IN CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO GARMENT

MAJOR STEPS

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TYPES OF YARN

1. STAPLE YARN

2. FILAMENT YARN

STAPLE YARN

COTTON

WOOL

JUTE

ACRYLIC

CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO YARN

FILAMENT YARN

SILK

SYNTHETIC

DIRECT YARN PRODUCTION FROM RAW MATERIALS

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CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO STAPLE YARN

EXAMPLE COTTON

PRE-SPINNING PROCESSES

SPINNING PROCESS

PRE-SPINNING PROCESSES

GINNING

BALE FORMATION

TRANSPORTATION TO TEXTILE MILLS

OPENING

LAP MAKING

CARDING

SLIVER MAKING

ROVING MAKING

PRINCIPLE

STRETCHING OF FIBRES

ARRANGING THE FIBRES PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER

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PR-SPINNING MACHINES

GINNING

BALE MAKING

OPENER

LAP MAKING

CARDING

DRAWING FRAME

SPEED FRAME SPINNING MACHINES

SMALL SCALE SPINNING

CHARKHA

LARGE SCALE SPINNING

RING SPINNING MACHINE

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WEAVING

CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC

INTERLACEMENT OF YARN IN SPECIFIC WAY IN TWO DIRECTION (WIDTH WISE AND LENGTHWISE)

LENGTH DIRECTION WARP

WIDTH DIRECTION WEFT

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WEAVING MACHINES

LOOMS

MANUALLY OPERATED LOOMS

ELECTRICALY OPERATED LOOMS

MANUAL LOOMS KNOWN AS HANDLOOMS

FRAME LOOM

PIT LOOM

SEMI-AUTOMATIC LOOMS

ELECTRICALLY OPERATED LOOMS

KNOWN AS POWER LOOMS

DIFFERENT TYPES LIKE

SIMPLE POWERLOOM

AIR JET LOOM

RAPIER LOOM

WATER JET LOOM

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LOOMS FOR PRODUCING DESIGNED FABRIC

DOBBY LOOM

JACQUARD LOOM

AVAILABLE BOTH IN MANUAL AND ELECTRICAL CATEGORY

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KNITTING

INTERLACEMENT OF SINGLE YARN

WARP DIRECTION: WARP KNITTING

WEFT DIRECTION: WEFT KNITTING

MACHINES

WARP KNITTING MACHINES

WEFT KNITTING MACHINES

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CHEMICAL PROCESSING

VALUE ADDITION THROUGH

PREPARATORY PROCESSES

DYEING

PRINTING

FINISHING

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PREPARATORY PROCESSES

DESIZING

SCOURING

BLEACHING

MERCERIZATION

Purpose

To removeNatural and added impuritiesTo improve the appearance of fabricTo impart certain desirable propertiesTo make it suitable for subsequent processes like dyeing, printing finishing

CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN

YARN FORM

FABRIC FORM

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DYEING

TO IMPART COLOUR UNIFORMLY

ALONG THE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF FABRIC

UNIFORMLY ON THE BACK AND FACE OF FABRIC

DYEING CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN

FIBRE FORM

YARN FORM

FABIC FORM

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MACHINES USED FOR DYEING

FIBRE DYEING MACHINES

YARN DYEING MACHINES

HANK DYEING MACHINES

CHEESE DYEING MACHINES

CONE DYEING MACHINES

FABRIC DYEING

JIGGER DYEING MACHINES

PADDING MANGLE

WINCH DYEING MACHINE

JET DYEING MACHINES

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PRINTING

DYEING IN THE LOCALIZED FORM

APPLICATION OF COLOUR IN THE FORM OF DESIGN

ONE OR MORE THAN ONE COLOUR CAN BE APPLIED IN THE DESIGN

KNOWN AS

SINGLE COLOUR DESIGN

MULTI COLOUR DESIGN

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DIFFERNCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING

DYEING• UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND

WIDTH OF FABRIC• USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE.• NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT

AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC• AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY• DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMI-

CONTINUOUS METHOD.• FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM.• DYEING IN FIBRE, YARN, FABRIC, GARMENT FORM

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PRINTING• LOCALLIZED DYEING• COLOUR IS APPLIED LOCALLY IN THE FORM OF

DESIGN/PATTERN• LOW VISCOSITY MEDIUM WOULD SPREAD THE

COLOUR BY CAPILLARY ACTION, DOES NOT MAINTAIN THE SHARPNESS OF THE DESIGN.

• AQUEOUS MEDIUM OF HIGH VISCOSITY, PREVENT THE COLOUR SPREADING.

• FABRIC PRINTING IN OPEN WIDTH FORM ONLY• FABRIC PRINTING IS MOST COMMON

COMPARED TO YARN AND GARMENT PRINTING, EXCEPTION T-SHIRT PRINTING

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PRINTING STUDYSTYLES OF PRINTING

DIRECT STYLE• PRINTING OF SINGLE OR MULTICOLOURS ON

WHITE OR PALE SHADE DYED FABRICRESIST STYLE• PREVENTION OF COLOUR FIXATION AT THE

PRINTED PORTION• WHITE RESIST: WHITE PRINT AGAINST COLOURED

BACKGROUND• COLOUR RESIST: COLOUR PRINT AGAINST

COLOURE BACKGROUNDDISCHARGE STYLE• DESTRUCTION OF COLOUR AT THE PRINTED

PORTION• WHITE DISCHARGE• COLOUR DISCHARGE

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METHODS OF PRINTING• BLOCK PRINTING• STENCIL PRINTING• ROLLER PRINTING

• SCREEN PRINTING• MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING• AUTOMATIC FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING• ROTORY SCREEN PRINTING• TRANSFER PRINTING• XEROX PRINTING• INKJET/DIGITAL PRINTING• PRINT LIKE EFFECT• TIE-DYE AND BATIK

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FINISHING

PURPOSE

TO IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF FABRIC

FEEL OF FABRIC

IMPART CERTAIN DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO FABRIC LIKE

WATER REPELLENT PROPERTY FOR RAIN COATS

WRINKLE FREE PROPERTY TO SHIRTING AND TRAUSER FABRIC

FLAME RETARDANT PROPERTY TO CURTAINS

TREATMENT CARRIED OUT MAINLY IN THE FABRIC FORM

CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN THE GARMENT FORM ALSO

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TYPES OF FINISHING AGENTS

1. WATER REPELLENT FINISH

2. FLAME REATARDANT FINISH

3. WRINKLE FREE FINISHES

4. ANTISTATIC FINISH

5. SOIL REPRELLENT FINISH

6. ANTI-BACTERIAL FINSIH

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• WEAVING USING COLOURED YARN

• KNITTING USING COLOURED YARN

• APPLIQUE OR PATCH WORK

• EMBROIDERY

OTHER METHODS FOR PRINT LIKE EFFECTS