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    http://trj.sagepub.com/content/82/12/1244The online version of this article can be found at:

    DOI: 10.1177/0040517512438124

    2012 82: 1244 originally published online 7 March 2012Textile Research JournalMourad Krifa

    and finenessber length distribution variability in cotton bale classification: Interactions among length, maturit

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    Original article

    Fiber length distribution variability incotton bale classification: Interactionsamong length, maturity and fineness

    Mourad Krifa

    Abstract

    Proper classification and bale selection are prerequisites to success in a modern cotton spinning operation. Currently, forcrops where automatic High Volume Instrument (HVI) classification is the norm, fiber selection is done based on HVIdata which does not include adequate characterization of fiber length distribution. This research evaluates the effective-ness of current cotton fiber classification and selection procedures in controlling for variability in fiber length distribution

    and presents a new approach to adequately clustering cotton bales into homogenous groups based on empirical lengthdistributions. The results show that using the common HVI parameters to group the bales produces categories withuncontrolled length distribution variability. Differences in distribution patterns appeared related to the potential for baleswith the same micronaire levels to differ significantly in maturity and thus in propensity to break.

    Keywords

    cotton classification, fiber selection, length distribution, cluster analysis, cotton variability

    Cotton fiber traits are determined by complex interac-tions among genetic, environmental and processing

    conditions. Because of these interactions, fiber proper-

    ties vary significantly at multiple levels, that is, between

    fields, between individual plants within fields, and even

    within single plants and on the same seed.13 Thus, the

    major challenge in cotton processing is to convert a

    highly variable raw material into a uniform product

    with quality that remains consistent over long produc-

    tion cycles. To address this challenge, it is critical that

    all the important fiber properties be adequately mea-

    sured, and that accepted cotton bale classing based on

    those measurements be made. Accordingly, cotton clas-

    sing has historically had a vital impact not only on the

    economics of cotton production and marketing, but

    also on the efficiency and the ultimate profitability of

    the textile manufacturing operation. In fact, decision

    making in the cotton industry is often, if not always,

    based on categorizing or clustering cotton bales into

    relatively homogeneous quality groups using measured

    fiber properties.

    Cotton classing has considerably changed with prog-

    ress in fiber quality measurement technology over sev-

    eral decades. Early graders manually and visually

    classified cotton according to grade, staple length andcharacter.4 The development of technology that

    enabled automatic and rapid measurement of micro-

    naire, color, then length, strength and trash, led to

    the current classification system based on High

    Volume Instruments or HVI.5 With the widespread

    adoption of quality measurement and classification

    technology and thus the availability of fiber informa-

    tion, cotton bale selection and laydown arrangement

    systems have evolved from the reliance on skills and

    experience of spinners to highly sophisticated informa-

    tion management and engineered decision-making

    tools.6

    In order to optimally use this information in fiber

    selection, significant research efforts have been

    Department of Textiles and Apparel, The University of Texas at Austin,

    USA

    Corresponding author:

    Mourad Krifa, Department of Textiles and Apparel, The University of

    Texas at Austin, 1 University Station A2700, Austin, Texas 78712, USA

    Email: [email protected]

    Textile Research Journal

    82(12) 12441254

    ! The Author(s) 2012

    Reprints and permissions:

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    DOI: 10.1177/0040517512438124

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    accomplished and various approaches have been devel-

    oped over decades. For instance, the concept of

    Engineered Fiber Selection or EFS was first developed

    by Cotton Incorporated in the late seventies.79 El

    Mogahzy10 proposed a linear programming approach

    to optimize cotton purchase and planning decisions,

    and to control warehouse inventory based on HVIdata. Later research went beyond purchase and inven-

    tory management to integrate bale picking for laydown

    mix selection.11 The various bale picking schemes in use

    today are based on correctly and efficiently clustering

    the population of bales into homogeneous groups with

    respect to selected fiber characteristics. Those proper-

    ties are limited to the major parameters available

    through HVI testing (i.e. micronaire, length, strength,

    and sometimes other characteristics such as color).12

    Micronaire is typically considered as a primary crite-

    rion in view of the major problems such as fabric barre

    or color shade differences that inconsistent micronaire

    can entail.13 Staple length is often the next essential

    criterion when mixing laydowns; although in more gen-

    eral terms, fiber properties may vary in importance

    according to technology and end use. Since the estab-

    lishment in 1991 of 100% classification by HVI in all

    USDA classing offices, and over the following decade,

    the widespread adoption of HVI by spinning mills the

    world over,14 little has changed in the fundamentals of

    the classing system. In an attempt to simplify the selec-

    tion process by aggregating multiple criteria, complex

    indices such as the fiber quality index (FQI), the spin-

    ning consistency index (SCI), or the premium/discount

    index (PDI) have been developed based on combina-tions of fiber properties and on regression models.1517

    Those indices often depend on the range of bales

    used to develop the equations and are not readily gen-

    eralizable to characterize the complex multivariate

    nature of cotton fiber quality. In addition, those indices

    consist of linear combinations of the same HVI param-

    eters discussed above and thus, fundamentally, they

    convey the same set of information with the same

    shortcomings.

    In particular, despite intensive research and develop-

    ment efforts, classing data still fails to include meaning-

    ful and reliable measurements of some fiber properties

    now at the forefront of concerns for spinners, namely,

    neps18 and short fibers or more generally fiber length

    distribution.19,20 To evaluate those properties, spinners

    depend on measurement methods with testing speeds

    not compatible with those of HVIs. The Advanced

    Fiber Information System, or USTER AFIS, is one

    such method where fibers are individualized using an

    aeromechanical opener/separator, then individually

    conveyed through a set of optical sensors which gener-

    ate electrical signals proportional to fiber length and

    other dimensions.21,22

    Thus, the criteria used as input to control the blends

    that feed the spinning mill are exclusively based on HVI

    measurements, while the spinners quality concerns at

    the output of the mixing line are increasingly geared

    toward parameters that cannot be measured using

    HVIs, namely neps, short fiber content or fiber length

    distribution.19,23,24

    More generally and beyond fiberlength, the intrinsic variability of all fiber properties

    (within cottons/bales) is not taken into account

    during fiber selection and laydown arrangement. In

    practice, each bale is identified by the average values

    of its HVI fiber characteristics. Information about

    within-bale variability or about distributions of individ-

    ual fiber characteristics is usually unavailable at the

    laydown constitution stage.

    The absence of this information from HVI classing

    data means that critical fiber properties are not taken

    into account in the fiber selection and laydown consti-

    tution process. This may lead to unpredictable changes

    in within-laydown variability which can be rather det-

    rimental,25 unless the current procedures would allow

    an indirect control of this variability. For instance, if

    those properties can be predicted using HVI parame-

    ters, the current fiber selection practices may have the

    potential to control for their variability in the laydown.

    However, this assumption remains to be verified

    because it is unclear whether controlling micronaire,

    length, length uniformity and bundle strength is suffi-

    cient to control variability in properties such as fiber

    length distribution. Indeed, fiber length distribution

    patterns typically show complex features and are there-

    fore difficult to classify using parameters such as meanvalues.19,24 The research reported in this paper aims at

    testing the aforementioned assumption with a focus on

    fiber length distribution. We examine the performance

    of HVI parameters as criteria for clustering cottons into

    homogenous distribution patterns and present a new

    approach to classifying cotton bales using empirical dis-

    tributions of fiber properties.

    Materials and methods

    A total of 172 commercial US upland cotton bales with

    a wide range of fiber properties were included in this

    study. To ensure the representativeness of the fiber

    property measurements, each bale was divided into 10

    layers and fiber samples were collected from each layer

    for testing on HVI (High Volume Instrument, four rep-

    lications for micronaire, four for color, and 10 for

    length and strength) and AFIS (Advanced Fiber

    Information System, three replications of 3000 fibers

    each). All testing was done after proper conditioning

    (65% RH, 21C). Testing instrument calibration was

    checked daily using standard cottons and proper daily

    maintenance and monitoring procedures ensured

    Krifa 1245

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    reliability of all instruments.26 Table 1 contains a sum-

    mary of the properties of the selected cottons and

    shows the wide range achieved in all variables. In addi-

    tion to the summary parameters, empirical histograms

    for length, fineness and maturity were retrieved from

    the AFIS test. Averages per bale for all HVI and AFIS

    parameters, as well as for length distribution histo-

    grams were derived to fully characterize each bale.

    Using the data collected, we evaluated bale classifica-

    tion using clustering techniques based on three sets of

    criteria:

    1. The usual HVI parameters using average values per

    bale; the parameters considered were micronaire,

    Upper Half Mean Length (UHML), length unifor-

    mity index, and bundle strength (this corresponds to

    the set of criteria used in common practice).

    2. AFIS length parameters using average values per

    bale of the mean length by number (Ln), the 5th

    length percentile, as well as dispersion parameters,

    namely length CV% by number (LnCV%), and

    short fiber content (SFCn%).

    3. Empirical histograms of individual fiber length using

    the average histogram per bale. Clustering the bales

    based on the empirical distribution is considered the

    reference ranking in this analysis since the criteria

    used constitute the most complete information avail-

    able about individual fiber properties, which should

    yield the highest possible homogeneity within quality

    groups.

    With each of the sets of criteria above as dimensions,

    we used the k-Means clustering algorithm available in

    the STATISTICA Data Miner program27 to classify

    the bales into homogenous groups by minimizing the

    within-group distances in the respective criteria taken

    simultaneously. The analysis was conducted using the

    Generalized EM and K-Means Cluster Analysis tool

    which allows for an a-priori unknown number of clus-

    ters (k) and estimates k from the data using the v-foldcross-validation algorithm.27 Thus, the analysis gener-

    ates an estimate of the number of clusters (k) from the

    data, then partitions the observations into the k clusters

    that minimize the distances or dissimilarities between

    observations within clusters, and maximize the distance

    between clusters. Each cluster is characterized by its

    centroid (the vector of means for the continuous vari-

    ables or criteria27). The dissimilarities between clusters

    and between observations within clusters are estimated

    using the squared Euclidean distance between centroids

    or, respectively, between each observation and its clus-

    ter centroid in the multidimensional space constituted

    by the classification criteria. For instance, in the cluster

    analysis using HVI properties as criteria, micronaire,

    UHML, uniformity and strength constitute a four-

    dimensional space.

    The number of clusters was estimated based on the

    empirical histogram data. With each set of classification

    criteria, length distribution data of the bales partitioned

    into groups was used to estimate a length distribution

    centroid, and then squared Euclidean distance between

    each bale and the corresponding cluster centroid was

    calculated to estimate the dissimilarity in length distri-

    bution patterns within clusters. Likewise, the centroid

    distributions were used to calculate the distancesbetween clusters.

    Results and discussions

    As mentioned above, the classification of the bales

    using the empirical histograms of the fiber length dis-

    tributions was considered the reference ranking in this

    analysis. To derive this classification, the frequencies

    observed for each length bin were used as classification

    criteria in the k-means cluster analysis. The number of

    clusters estimated using the cross-validation algorithm

    as discussed above was five. Thus, both HVI and AFIS

    data were used to cluster the bales into five homoge-

    nous quality groups. We first examine the reference

    classification obtained with the individual fiber length

    distributions, then discuss the clusters derived with the

    commonly used HVI properties.

    Bale classification using empirical histograms

    of individual fiber length

    Figure 1 depicts the observed probability density traces

    of the individual bales classified into homogenous

    Table 1. Main fiber properties of the selected bales (HVI and

    AFIS measurements on raw cotton)

    Fiber properties Min. Max. Average

    HVI

    Micronaire 2.3 5.1 4.0

    Upper Half Mean Length(UHML, mm)

    24.2 31.4 28.3

    Length uniformity (%) 78.0 85.1 81.8

    Strength (g/tex) 21.7 35.5 29.1

    AFIS

    Mean length by number (Ln, mm) 14.5 22.4 18.8

    Short Fiber Content by number

    (SFCn, %)

    19.7 45.1 29.5

    Upper Quartile Length by weight

    (UQLw, mm)

    28.3 37.8 33.6

    Maturity ratio (MR) 0.73 0.95 0.86

    Fineness (mtex) 142 184 163

    1246 Textile Research Journal 82(12)

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    groups using the k-means cluster analysis with length

    histograms as classification criteria. The density traces

    for the individual bales are shown in fine gray lines. The

    density trace shown in bold broken line represents the

    centroid for the corresponding cluster. The broken ver-

    tical line at x 30 mm was added to emphasize the

    relative positioning of the five clusters on the length

    axis.

    The plots generated for the five groups show distinct

    patterns across clusters with relatively homogenous dis-

    tribution shapes within clusters. Therefore, using the

    k-means clustering approach and the observed length

    distribution data, it was possible to automatically and

    quickly classify a sizeable number of cotton bales into

    groups with homogenous distribution patterns.

    Observed cotton fiber length distribution patterns

    result from a combination of intrinsic (genetic and envi-

    ronmental) and processing factors. Mechanical damage

    in cotton fiber processing, both shifts the fiber length

    distribution and alters its shape. As a result of these

    interactions, the distributions exhibit complex, often

    bimodal, patterns which depend on the degree of fiber

    0

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    Probab

    ility

    0 10 20 30 40 50 60

    Length (mm)

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    Probability

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    Probability

    Length (mm)

    (c)

    (b)

    (d)(a)

    (e)

    Individual bales

    Cluster centroids

    X = 30 mm

    Figure 1. Probability density traces of the 172 bales categorized into five clusters using empirical length histograms.

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    damage undergone by the cotton.19,24,28 With such

    complex shapes, the summary statistics typically used

    to describe fiber length (means, percentiles, short fiber

    content. . .) are not representative of the distribution,

    and cannot be used to classify cottons into groups

    with similar distribution patterns. Thus, the common

    way to compare and classify samples with varied

    degrees of fiber damage into groups with similar distri-

    bution shapes is to visually examine the empirical

    length histograms. However, this can only be done

    with a limited number of samples and cannot be prac-

    tically applied when dealing with hundreds or thou-

    sands of bales to constitute laydowns, or when

    analyzing hundreds of samples to select genotypes in

    breeding programs. The approach we show above over-

    comes this problem and allows the automatic and quick

    classification of a large number of samples into groups

    with similar distribution patterns.

    The distribution groups, shown in Figure 1, differ in

    both shape and position on the length axis, which, as

    indicated above, corresponds to both intrinsic and pro-

    cess-related sources of variability. We have sorted the

    five groups on Figure 1 (from A to E) by order of

    increasing fiber damage according to the characteristic

    distribution shapes.19 In particular, clusters A, B, and C

    (Figure 1) show a clear bimodal shape with a peak in

    the range of very short fibers (x< 5 mm), and another

    distinct peak in the length categories between 20 and

    30 mm. This pattern is characteristic of an intermediate

    stage of fiber breakage process typically seen in raw

    cotton that underwent some degree of mechanical

    aggressiveness in ginning and lint cleaning.19,28

    Clusters D and E (Figure 1) on the other hand, still

    exhibit the peak at x

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    significantly in HVI fiber properties, with exception

    made of the fact that clusters A and B have equal

    fiber strength values. Those two clusters, seen above

    as having a distribution pattern characteristic of low-

    intermediate degree of fiber damage, appear to be con-stituted of the strongest bales (average strength is

    30.2 g/tex), and are characterized by the two highest

    micronaire levels, respectively 4.2 and 4.6 (Figure 2).

    At the other end of the spectrum, cluster E shows the

    lowest micronaire (2.9) and strength (24.6 g/tex), and as

    discussed above, the length distribution pattern with

    the most advanced fiber damage level. Overall, the dif-

    ferent distribution shapes seen across the five groups of

    bales correspond to different degrees of damage that

    can be caused by variations in upstream processing

    conditions (mechanical aggressiveness in ginning and

    lint cleaning) or variations in the cottons propensity

    to break, which was shown to depend on fiber maturity

    and strength.19,24 For instance, the distribution shape

    seen in cluster E (Figure 1) is distinctive of immature-

    weak cotton that reached a degree of extensive fiber

    damage even at the bale stage. Therefore, the k-means

    clustering approach using observed length distributions

    allowed the classification of the tested cotton bale pop-

    ulation into homogenous groups. The various distribu-

    tion patterns observed for those groups appear to be

    representative of varying degrees of fiber damage.

    Because of the close relationship between fiber

    damage and maturity and strength,19,24 clustering the

    cotton bales into homogenous groups according to

    length distribution patterns shows the potential of

    effectively discriminating between cottons with differing

    micronaire and strength levels.

    Parametric classification using HVI and AFIS statistics

    In addition to the classification discussed above, both

    HVI and AFIS parameters were used to cluster the

    bales into five homogenous quality groups. HVI classi-

    fication constituted bale clusters based on micronaire,

    UHML, length uniformity index, and bundle strength.

    AFIS classification was based on four length parame-

    ters by number (mean length, length CV%, length 5th

    percentile, and short fiber content19). The clustering

    technique was similar to above; the analysis constituted

    five groups that minimized the within-group and max-

    imized the between-group variability in the selected

    classification criteria.

    Table 2 summarizes mean values of micronaire,

    UHML (mm), length uniformity index (%) and

    strength (g/tex) for the five bale groupings constituted

    based on the four HVI criteria. The clusters are shown

    in Table 2 by increasing micronaire value. The cluster

    mean values and associated standard deviations

    showed significant differences between clusters in each

    of the four HVI fiber properties.

    Table 3. Cluster means for AFIS mean length by number (Ln), length CV%, and length 5 th percentile

    (Pc5.0)

    Cluster Ln (mm) LnCV(%) SFCn(%)

    Pc5.0

    (mm)

    Number

    of cases

    Percentage

    (%)

    AF-1 16.09 56.0 38.0 30.2 18 10.5

    AF-2 17.69 52.6 31.5 31.5 25 14.5

    AF-3 18.55 55.3 31.8 34.3 56 32.6

    AF-4 19.77 47.6 23.9 32.8 31 18.0

    AF-5 20.45 51.6 26.0 35.9 42 24.4

    Table 2. Cluster means for micronaire, staple length (mm), length uniformity index (%), and bundle strength

    (g/tex)

    Cluster Micronaire

    UHM length

    (mm)

    Uniformity

    index (%)

    Strength

    (g/tex)

    Number

    of bales

    Percentage

    (%)

    HVI-1 2.7 26.8 79.3 24.4 9 5.2

    HVI-2 3.5 28.8 81.3 27.8 42 24.4HVI-3 3.8 25.4 80.5 26.0 13 7.6

    HVI-4 4.1 29.9 82.9 30.9 52 30.2

    HVI-5 4.5 27.6 82.0 29.3 56 32.6

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    Table 3 summarizes the data observed for each of

    the five clusters obtained with the four AFIS length

    parameters. Overall, the clusters exhibit sizably differ-

    ent mean values in each criterion with the exception

    made of the comparable short fiber content in the

    groups labeled AF-2 and AF-3.

    We now examine the three classifications obtained

    above and compare the performance of each set of cri-

    teria in adequately grouping the bales, that is, in pro-

    ducing distinct and homogenous clusters that minimize

    the within-group variability and maximize the between-

    group variability.

    Classification performance

    As mentioned in the methods section, the dissimilarity

    of the distribution patterns within clusters was esti-

    mated using the squared Euclidean distances between

    the length distributions of individual bales and the cor-

    responding cluster centroid. Respectively, the dissimi-

    larity of the distribution patterns between clusters was

    estimated using the squared Euclidean distances

    between cluster centroids. This was done for each of

    the three classifications discussed above, namely, the

    classification based on the empirical histograms and

    the two parametric classifications based on HVI and

    AFIS parameters. The squared Euclidean distance

    results were used to calculate the ratio of total

    between-cluster over the total within-cluster variability

    of distribution patterns for each of the three classifica-

    tions. Based on the discussion above, this ratio mea-

    sures the classification performance because the higher

    it is, the more distinct and homogenous the clusters are.

    Figure 3 shows the ratios so obtained for the three

    classifications.

    It is apparent that as expected, the criteria based on

    the empirical histograms produce the classification with

    the highest ratio. The classification based on AFIS

    parameters produces the middle ratio while the one

    based on HVI parameters produces the lowest ratio.

    This indicates that as we move from the empirical his-

    togram to the parameters used in the industry to clas-

    sify cotton bales, the probability to obtain balecategories with heterogeneous distribution patterns

    increases.

    To scrutinize this observation in more depth, we

    examine the detail of the distances obtained for the

    individual bales partitioned into the five clusters using

    HVI parameters. The results of this analysis are shown

    on Figure 4 where both individual values (upper plot)

    and standard deviations (lower plot) of the squared

    Euclidean distances are plotted against the five HVI

    groups (HVI-1 to -5).

    The results in Figure 4 show a high dispersion of the

    Euclidean distance for the clusters with high micronaire

    levels (cluster HVI-5 and to some extent cluster HVI-4

    which has two bales with extreme length distribution

    dissimilarity in comparison to the cluster centroid).

    These results indicate that the clustering of the bales

    based on HVI parameters resulted in some groups of

    bales with relatively heterogeneous length distribution

    patterns. The heterogeneity within groupings appears

    to be higher for the categories with high micronaire

    levels.

    The practical implication of the observation made

    above is that in constituting the spinning laydowns

    Figure 4. Variability chart for length distribution pattern dis-similarity within HVI clusters (squared Euclidean distance).

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    0.5

    Empirical histogramAFIS (Ln)HVI

    DistanceRatio(between/withinclusters)

    Figure 3. Between-/within-cluster ratio of Euclidian distance

    (distribution dissimilarity) based on the three sets of criteria.

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    based solely on HVI data, bales with dissimilar length

    distribution patterns could be substituted for each

    other (being from the same category) and could there-

    fore result in variability between laydowns that remains

    unaccounted for. In the particular case of the popula-

    tion we tested, bales within the 4.1 and 4.5 micronaire

    categories (see Table 2) could be considered essentially

    identical because of having similar HVI properties,

    but may represent significant variability in length

    distribution. An illustrative example of this variability

    in each of the two groups of bales is shown in Figure 5.

    For each group, we plotted length distribution den-

    sity traces for two bales showing high Euclidean dis-

    tance from the clusters centroid (shown in broken bold

    line).

    In both cases shown in Figure 5, the distribution

    patterns are different and exhibit distinct shape features

    that typically correspond to cottons with different

    degrees of fiber damage, (i.e. different propensities to

    break and/or processing history).19 Those bales were

    classified in different clusters when using the empirical

    histograms as criteria but were attributed to the same

    groups when HVI parameters were used as criteria.

    This result is indicative of the fact that the four majorHVI fiber properties are not sufficient to predict length

    distribution patterns since cotton bales having similar

    HVI measurements may have very distinct length

    distributions.

    The bales depicted in Figure 5 are just examples

    among about 39 bales (or 23% of all tested bales)

    that appeared to be misclassified based on HVI data.

    In order to identify the factors impacting this misclas-

    sification, we examined the combinations of fiber prop-

    erties of pairs of bales that had comparable HVI

    properties but exhibited significantly different distribu-

    tion patterns (similar to the cases illustrated in

    Figure 5). A particular emphasis was placed on those

    fiber characteristics that are known to impact the cot-

    tons propensity to break and thus length distribution

    pattern, which include fiber maturity.19,24

    Figure 6 depicts the relationship between micronaire

    and the two fiber maturity parameters measured using

    the AFIS (i.e. the immature fiber content (IFC %) and

    maturity ratio) for the bale clusters exhibiting misclas-

    sified bales with HVI. The pairs of bales with similar

    HVI properties but distinct length distribution patterns

    are represented using two different point markers

    depending on the distributions positioning relative to

    the respective clusters centroid. Bales with distribu-tions at the left of the centroid, that is those having

    degraded length with relatively extensive fiber damage

    (e.g. bales #30 and #12 in Figure 5), are shown in bold

    dark dots. Bales with distribution at the right of the

    centroid (i.e. with a lower degree of fiber damage),

    are shown with asterisk point markers. Two curves

    (dotted lines) were added to the scatter plots to outline

    each of the two groups of bales. The rest of the bales

    are shown in gray circle markers.

    It can be seen from Figure 6 that the two groups

    correspond to pairs of bales having two levels of matu-

    rity for the same micronaire values. The samples with

    degraded length distributions are those that have a

    higher IFC% and a lower maturity ratio, while the

    bales with a lower degree of damage have a lower

    IFC% and a higher maturity ratio for the same micro-

    naire levels. It appears therefore that the misclassifica-

    tion of some of the bales based on HVI parameters is

    related to the fact that bales having the same micro-

    naire may correspond to different maturity levels, given

    the nature of micronaire as a complex measure of both

    maturity and fineness. Thus bales having the same

    micronaire (i.e. classified in the same HVI categories),

    0

    0.01

    0.02

    0.03

    0.04

    0.05

    0.06

    0.07

    0.08

    0.09

    Probability

    Bale#12

    Bale#121

    Cluster centroid

    0

    0.01

    0.02

    0.03

    0.04

    0.05

    0.06

    0.07

    0.08

    0.09

    0 20 40 60

    Probability

    Length (mm)

    Bale#30

    Bale#75

    Cluster centroid

    (a)

    (b)

    Figure 5. Length distribution pattern variability within clusters

    HVI-4 (a) and HVI-5 (b).

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    but having different maturity levels will ultimately lead

    to the high variability in fiber length distribution as

    illustrated in Figure 5.

    Conclusions

    In order to test the effectiveness of current cotton fiber

    classification and selection procedures in controlling for

    variability in fiber length distribution, k-means cluster

    analysis was used to classify a broad range of 172 com-

    mercial cotton bales into homogenous quality groups

    based on three sets of classification criteria. The first set

    of criteria consisted of the major HVI parameters com-

    monly used in commercial classification and in fiber

    selection in spinning operations; the parameters consid-

    ered were micronaire, UHML (mm), length uniformity

    index (%) and bundle strength (g/tex). Another set of

    criteria consisted of fiber length parameters provided by

    the AFIS. In addition to those parametric criteria, a

    new approach based on empirical histograms of fiber

    length distribution was also used. Using this new

    approach, it was possible to quickly classify a sizable

    number of cotton bales into groups with homogenous

    length distribution patterns which appeared representa-

    tive of varying degrees of fiber damage. Because of the

    impact of fiber maturity and strength on the propensity

    to break, clustering the bales based on length distribu-

    tion patterns resulted in groups with different micro-

    naire and strength levels.

    A comparative analysis of the three approaches

    revealed that when classification was done using HVI

    properties only, approximately 23% of the bales

    appeared misclassified, (i.e. cottons with significantly

    different length distributions were attributed to the

    5

    6

    7

    8

    9

    10

    11

    12

    13

    ImmatureFiberContent(IFC%)

    Bales with length distributions left of centroid

    Bales with length distributions right of centroid

    3.6 3.8 4.0 4.2 4.4 4.6 4.8 5.0

    Micronaire

    0.78

    0.80

    0.82

    0.84

    0.86

    0.88

    0.90

    0.92

    0.94

    0.96

    Maturityratio

    (b)

    (a)

    Figure 6. Relationship between micronaire and maturity parameters; (a) Immature Fiber Content (IFC%), and (b) Maturity ratio.

    Bales showing extreme length distribution patterns within clusters are shown in distinct point markers.

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    same categories), which could result in undesirable lay-

    down variability in critical properties such as short fiber

    content. The examination of the interactions among

    fiber properties indicated that the misclassification of

    those bales based on HVI parameters is related to the

    nature of micronaire as a complex measure of both

    maturity and fineness. Therefore, bales having thesame micronaire may correspond to different maturity

    levels, and given the link between maturity and fiber

    damage, this can result in significant variability in

    fiber length distribution. This result underscores the

    need for, and the potential usefulness of high volume

    measurement tools that could provide separate deter-

    mination of maturity and fineness. The availability of

    such methods could prevent bale misclassifications

    resulting from misinterpretation of micronaire values

    and thus ensure better control of the variability in

    fiber length distribution. This research continues in

    order to quantify the potential impact of this variability

    on processing performance and, ultimately, on yarn

    quality, as well as to identify combinations of classifi-

    cation criteria that could help minimize variability

    within bale categories.

    Acknowledgements

    This research was funded, in part, by the Food and Fibers

    Research Grant Program administered by the Texas

    Department of Agriculture (grant number FF-d1011-7) and

    by Cotton Inc., Texas State Support (grant number 11

    813TX).

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