Fashion History (1890-1950) · Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s....

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1/30/18 1 Fashion Trends Where do fashion trends come from? Pucci Dress 1960’s Pucci Collection Fall 2016 Where do fashion trends come from? 1960s 2012 Where do fashion trends come from? From movies. Where do fashion trends come from? From movies. 2012 Fashion HIstory 1890-1940

Transcript of Fashion History (1890-1950) · Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s....

Page 1: Fashion History (1890-1950) · Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s. • Trends repeat every 20-30 years Historical Influence- 1890s • Victorian Era:

1/30/18

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Fashion Trends

Where do fashion trends come from?

Pucci Dress 1960’s Pucci Collection Fall 2016

Where do fashion trends come from?

1960s 2012

Where do fashion trends come from?

From movies….

Where do fashion trends come from?

From movies….

2012

Fashion HIstory

1890-1940

Page 2: Fashion History (1890-1950) · Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s. • Trends repeat every 20-30 years Historical Influence- 1890s • Victorian Era:

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Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the

1890s. • Trends repeat every 20-30 years

Historical Influence- 1890s • Victorian Era: a period of peace, prosperity

and refined manners • Age of Optimism • Ragtime (Jazz and Rhythm) • Civil War was a large influence (1861-1865)

The Gibson Girl • Artist Charles Dana

Gibson sketched young women, and became known as the Gibson Girls.

• They were published in newspapers and set the standard for the All-American Girl

Fashion in the 1890s • Focus was on the

exaggerated hourglass silhouette. • Shoulders were wide,

waists were cinched in, and the hip was increased.

Key Pieces of Fashion • Corset: a garment worn to

hold and shape the torso. • Bustle: skirt-like piece that

were worn to support the drapery of a woman’s dress.

More about the Corset • Severely damages the internal structure! • Some waists went as small as 18” around.

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Men’s Fashion • Matching Coat and vest with contrasting

trousers

Movies representing this era • Finding Neverland • Moulin Rouge (1952) • Sherlock Holmes • Holes

Historical Influence-1900s • Industrial Revolution Era • Automobiles and Electricity were invented • Edwardian Era: a time of peace and plenty. The

upper classes embrace leisure sports, so more mobile and flexible were needed.

Fashion in the 1900s • The S-Curve Silhouette: the silhouette

softened into the S-Shaped Curve. – Softer shoulders, less restrictive corsets and no

bustle.

Key Pieces of Fashion • Duster Coat: Men and

women wore these to protect their clothing when driving/riding in cars • Shirtwaist: A blouse with

buttons down the front

Key pieces of Fashion • Leg O’Mutton Sleeves:

lots of material at the top, tapered at the wrist

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Men’s Fashion • Formal Morning Dress with Top Hats • Or 3 piece “lounge” suit with bowler hats

Movies representing this era • Moulin Rouge (2001) • Meet Me in St. Louis • Saving Mr. Banks • Mary Poppins

Historical Influence 1910s • World War 1 (1914-1918) – Fashion came to a standstill because patriotism

was at an all time high • Women’s Movement – Women demanded the right to vote, wear make-up,

cut their hair short, and wear skirts above the ankle

Fashion in the 1910s • Decade starts out with the inverted

triangle silhouette • Towards the end of WWI: Barrel Silhouette or

Tonneau look comes in • Baggy dress/jacket combination that made

women look large and droopy in the chest

Key Pieces of Fashion • Hobble Skirt: Paul Poiret (french designer)

broke the new rule of freedom. – Hemline was narrow so women could only take

very tiny steps – Very short lived

Key Pieces of Fashion • Bathing Suit: Introduced by Annette Kellerman. • Bloomers: because of the bicycle, Amelia

Bloomer designed a practical outfit. Loose trousers gathered at the ankle. Later they were shortened to under the knee.

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Men’s Fashion • Huge military influence-trench coats

Movies Representing this Era • Titanic • Lady and the Tramp • Tuck Everlasting

Historical Influences- 1920s •  “Roaring 20’s”-marked by a general feeling of

discontinuity-modern times and a break in tradition. • Age of Jazz-Dancing rose in popularity • Prohibition • Women’s right to vote-causing a more progressive

woman

Fashions in the 1920s • Silhouette: tubular or rectangle silhouette • Dropped waistline • FYI: the brassiere (BRA) was introduced but

was used to flatten the figure, not to uplift or enhance.

Flappers • Young women’s fashion was both a trend

and social statement, breaking away from rigid Victorian way of life • Labeled ‘flappers’ by older generations • No corsets, knee length dresses (exposing

legs and arms) shorter hairstyle

Thinking Woman • College educated • Opposite of the flapper • Dress was emancipated but not extreme

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Key Pieces of Fashion • Costume Jewelry-long

pearl necklaces, large gem stones, bangles etc. • Cloche Hats-

resembled a helmet.

Men’s Fashion • Trousers creased with wider hemlines • Introduction of the modern two piece suit • Wingtip shoes

Movies Representing this Era • The Great Gatsby • Thoroughly Modern Millie • Singing in the Rain • It’s a Wonderful Life • The Princess and the Frog

Historical Influences-1930s • Depression Era: Good times ended with the

crash of the stock market.

Designers • Coco Chanel: made a hit in fashion using

black and navy in simple frill-free designs. She said, “Each frill discarded makes one look younger.” • Fashion had to change because of lack of

supplies

Fashion in the 1930s • Elongated Hourglass silhouette: long and

slim with flared hem (think mermaid) • Hemlines were dropped back down to the

ankle, waistline was restored

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Key Pieces of Fashion • Bias cut dresses: it revolutionized

the silhouette. It emphasized the natural curves of a woman through drape and fabric choice • Hand-me-downs became popular

(reuse everything!)

Key Pieces in Fashion • Flour Sack Clothing: Flour sacks became

the material for clothing. Fun Fact: When they realized

women were using their sacks to make clothes for their child, the

mills started using f lowered fabric for their sacks. The label was

designed to wash out.

Men’s Fashion • Double breasted suit • Padded shoulders • Glen Plaid Fabric

Movies Representing this Era • Annie • Cinderella Man • The Legend of Bagger Vance • The Sound of Music

Historical Influences-1940s • World War II (1939-1945): Fashion industry

in Europe was closed down by the war, so the U.S. was left to it’s own designers for fashion direction • Rationing • New York Gains Importance

Fashion in 1940s •  Inverted Triangle Silhouette • Women began to wear pants (practical dress for

work in industry.) Pant then became popular as a comfortable casual fashion

• Fashion was very manly and very sensible tweed. Shoulders were square, wide and padded

• Suit dresses were very popular

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War Restrictions • Fashion was restricted • Stockings were expensive

and usually not available. Women in this picture are shown painting their legs to appear to have nylons on.

More Restrictions • L85-law which restricted the manufacture of

clothing – Ruffles were forbidden – Only one pocket per blouse or shirt – Hems could be no deeper than 2 inches and the

widest part of the hem of a dress could not exceed 72 inches

Key Pieces in Fashion • Convertible Suit (mix and match pieces): • Slacks: Women’s pants

Men’s Fashion • Bomber Jacket: Military and

Airplane influence • Eisenhower Jacket: Made

famous by Pres. Eisenhower • Several things were removed:

cuffs, vest, pant suits, patch pockets, cloth belts, and pleats.

Movies Representing this Era • A League of Their Own • Bedknobs and Broomsticks • Pearl Harbor • The Notebook

Historical Influence-1950s • Baby Boom-a lot of children were born after

the war! • Rock and Roll became very popular music • Cold War

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The New Look-Christian Dior • In 1947 Christian Dior (a French designer)

launched “The New Look” • It gave women a more softer, feminine

look and curve. • The look was stylish, elegant and reflected

the opposite of wartime restrictions.

The New Look Cont. • Waists were cinched in again and yards and

yards of fabric were used. The bustline was accented

Fashion in the 1950s • Hourglass Silhouette-accented the lower half of

the body (baby boom hips!!) • Teen Fashion: Poodle skirts, bobby socks, sweater

sets, saddle shoes, capris • Hairstyles included the ponytail and the beehive

Men’s Fashion • Cardigan Sweaters • Hats • Flannel Suits (Charcoal Gray, Navy, Brown) • Greasers: Jeans, T-Shirt, Leather Jacket

and Converse • Chino’s button down shirt and loafers

Movies Representing this Era • Grease • Pleasantville • Mona Lisa Smile