Fashion History (1890-1950) · Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s....
Transcript of Fashion History (1890-1950) · Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the 1890s....
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Fashion Trends
Where do fashion trends come from?
Pucci Dress 1960’s Pucci Collection Fall 2016
Where do fashion trends come from?
1960s 2012
Where do fashion trends come from?
From movies….
Where do fashion trends come from?
From movies….
2012
Fashion HIstory
1890-1940
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Fashion History • Trends move very quickly starting in the
1890s. • Trends repeat every 20-30 years
Historical Influence- 1890s • Victorian Era: a period of peace, prosperity
and refined manners • Age of Optimism • Ragtime (Jazz and Rhythm) • Civil War was a large influence (1861-1865)
The Gibson Girl • Artist Charles Dana
Gibson sketched young women, and became known as the Gibson Girls.
• They were published in newspapers and set the standard for the All-American Girl
Fashion in the 1890s • Focus was on the
exaggerated hourglass silhouette. • Shoulders were wide,
waists were cinched in, and the hip was increased.
Key Pieces of Fashion • Corset: a garment worn to
hold and shape the torso. • Bustle: skirt-like piece that
were worn to support the drapery of a woman’s dress.
More about the Corset • Severely damages the internal structure! • Some waists went as small as 18” around.
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Men’s Fashion • Matching Coat and vest with contrasting
trousers
Movies representing this era • Finding Neverland • Moulin Rouge (1952) • Sherlock Holmes • Holes
Historical Influence-1900s • Industrial Revolution Era • Automobiles and Electricity were invented • Edwardian Era: a time of peace and plenty. The
upper classes embrace leisure sports, so more mobile and flexible were needed.
Fashion in the 1900s • The S-Curve Silhouette: the silhouette
softened into the S-Shaped Curve. – Softer shoulders, less restrictive corsets and no
bustle.
Key Pieces of Fashion • Duster Coat: Men and
women wore these to protect their clothing when driving/riding in cars • Shirtwaist: A blouse with
buttons down the front
Key pieces of Fashion • Leg O’Mutton Sleeves:
lots of material at the top, tapered at the wrist
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Men’s Fashion • Formal Morning Dress with Top Hats • Or 3 piece “lounge” suit with bowler hats
Movies representing this era • Moulin Rouge (2001) • Meet Me in St. Louis • Saving Mr. Banks • Mary Poppins
Historical Influence 1910s • World War 1 (1914-1918) – Fashion came to a standstill because patriotism
was at an all time high • Women’s Movement – Women demanded the right to vote, wear make-up,
cut their hair short, and wear skirts above the ankle
Fashion in the 1910s • Decade starts out with the inverted
triangle silhouette • Towards the end of WWI: Barrel Silhouette or
Tonneau look comes in • Baggy dress/jacket combination that made
women look large and droopy in the chest
Key Pieces of Fashion • Hobble Skirt: Paul Poiret (french designer)
broke the new rule of freedom. – Hemline was narrow so women could only take
very tiny steps – Very short lived
Key Pieces of Fashion • Bathing Suit: Introduced by Annette Kellerman. • Bloomers: because of the bicycle, Amelia
Bloomer designed a practical outfit. Loose trousers gathered at the ankle. Later they were shortened to under the knee.
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Men’s Fashion • Huge military influence-trench coats
Movies Representing this Era • Titanic • Lady and the Tramp • Tuck Everlasting
Historical Influences- 1920s • “Roaring 20’s”-marked by a general feeling of
discontinuity-modern times and a break in tradition. • Age of Jazz-Dancing rose in popularity • Prohibition • Women’s right to vote-causing a more progressive
woman
Fashions in the 1920s • Silhouette: tubular or rectangle silhouette • Dropped waistline • FYI: the brassiere (BRA) was introduced but
was used to flatten the figure, not to uplift or enhance.
Flappers • Young women’s fashion was both a trend
and social statement, breaking away from rigid Victorian way of life • Labeled ‘flappers’ by older generations • No corsets, knee length dresses (exposing
legs and arms) shorter hairstyle
Thinking Woman • College educated • Opposite of the flapper • Dress was emancipated but not extreme
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Key Pieces of Fashion • Costume Jewelry-long
pearl necklaces, large gem stones, bangles etc. • Cloche Hats-
resembled a helmet.
Men’s Fashion • Trousers creased with wider hemlines • Introduction of the modern two piece suit • Wingtip shoes
Movies Representing this Era • The Great Gatsby • Thoroughly Modern Millie • Singing in the Rain • It’s a Wonderful Life • The Princess and the Frog
Historical Influences-1930s • Depression Era: Good times ended with the
crash of the stock market.
Designers • Coco Chanel: made a hit in fashion using
black and navy in simple frill-free designs. She said, “Each frill discarded makes one look younger.” • Fashion had to change because of lack of
supplies
Fashion in the 1930s • Elongated Hourglass silhouette: long and
slim with flared hem (think mermaid) • Hemlines were dropped back down to the
ankle, waistline was restored
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Key Pieces of Fashion • Bias cut dresses: it revolutionized
the silhouette. It emphasized the natural curves of a woman through drape and fabric choice • Hand-me-downs became popular
(reuse everything!)
Key Pieces in Fashion • Flour Sack Clothing: Flour sacks became
the material for clothing. Fun Fact: When they realized
women were using their sacks to make clothes for their child, the
mills started using f lowered fabric for their sacks. The label was
designed to wash out.
Men’s Fashion • Double breasted suit • Padded shoulders • Glen Plaid Fabric
Movies Representing this Era • Annie • Cinderella Man • The Legend of Bagger Vance • The Sound of Music
Historical Influences-1940s • World War II (1939-1945): Fashion industry
in Europe was closed down by the war, so the U.S. was left to it’s own designers for fashion direction • Rationing • New York Gains Importance
Fashion in 1940s • Inverted Triangle Silhouette • Women began to wear pants (practical dress for
work in industry.) Pant then became popular as a comfortable casual fashion
• Fashion was very manly and very sensible tweed. Shoulders were square, wide and padded
• Suit dresses were very popular
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War Restrictions • Fashion was restricted • Stockings were expensive
and usually not available. Women in this picture are shown painting their legs to appear to have nylons on.
More Restrictions • L85-law which restricted the manufacture of
clothing – Ruffles were forbidden – Only one pocket per blouse or shirt – Hems could be no deeper than 2 inches and the
widest part of the hem of a dress could not exceed 72 inches
Key Pieces in Fashion • Convertible Suit (mix and match pieces): • Slacks: Women’s pants
Men’s Fashion • Bomber Jacket: Military and
Airplane influence • Eisenhower Jacket: Made
famous by Pres. Eisenhower • Several things were removed:
cuffs, vest, pant suits, patch pockets, cloth belts, and pleats.
Movies Representing this Era • A League of Their Own • Bedknobs and Broomsticks • Pearl Harbor • The Notebook
Historical Influence-1950s • Baby Boom-a lot of children were born after
the war! • Rock and Roll became very popular music • Cold War
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The New Look-Christian Dior • In 1947 Christian Dior (a French designer)
launched “The New Look” • It gave women a more softer, feminine
look and curve. • The look was stylish, elegant and reflected
the opposite of wartime restrictions.
The New Look Cont. • Waists were cinched in again and yards and
yards of fabric were used. The bustline was accented
Fashion in the 1950s • Hourglass Silhouette-accented the lower half of
the body (baby boom hips!!) • Teen Fashion: Poodle skirts, bobby socks, sweater
sets, saddle shoes, capris • Hairstyles included the ponytail and the beehive
Men’s Fashion • Cardigan Sweaters • Hats • Flannel Suits (Charcoal Gray, Navy, Brown) • Greasers: Jeans, T-Shirt, Leather Jacket
and Converse • Chino’s button down shirt and loafers
Movies Representing this Era • Grease • Pleasantville • Mona Lisa Smile