Fashion Brand Analysis

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US Retail Sales SoarBacked by strong domestic demand

n contrast to various markets suchIas China, Japan or Europe that

areshowing stagnant growth, the US is re-emerging from the global financial crisis it faced a few years ago and getting on its feet faster and stronger.This positive change is being seen in retail sales and in April 2016 the sales at most retailers jumped more than anticipated, clearly indicating that the US economy is on its road to recovery. As per Commerce Department figures, purchases climbed 1.3 per cent,the biggest gain since March 2015, whereas the median forecast of 82

economists surveyed by Bloomberg predicted a 0.8 per cent gain. Data further hints at steady build-up inflation pressures, with import prices recording their largest increase in just over four years in May as a push from a strong dollar and lower oil prices fades. Also, another report by the Labour Department reveals that the import prices have increased1.4 per cent, the largest rise since March 2012, after advancing 0.7 per cent in April. Michael Feroli, an Economist at JP Morgan reveals, “As has been the case in the prior

two years, the modest first quarter disappointment in consumer spending now appears to be a short-livedsoft patch.”This increase is led by healthier household finances that reflect reduced borrowing and increased saving which in turn is helping consumers to withstand rising gas prices and moderate job growth. The positive growth is showcased as 11 out of 13 major retail categories showed increase, including automobile, grocery stores, online merchant, etc. whose sale rose most in almost two

Despite a slowdown in job creation and rising gasoline prices, US retail sales are constantly on an increase as Americans are spending more money, spurring economic growth. As growth

in various other markets continue to remain slow, all eyes are back on the US as it rises to the top of the fashion industry’s list of happening markets.

RE TAILERS EYE US DUE TO E C O N O M I C RECOVER Y

US economy is on its road to recovery. As per Commerce Department’sfigures, purchases climbed 1.3per cent, the biggest gain since March 2015.

WORLD WRAP



SUSTAINABILITY

The Better Work Vietnam, a partnership programmebetween the International Labor Organization (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC), has launched a new Labor Law application for smartphone, to improve labour standards in the Vietnamese apparel industry.Currently available in both English and Vietnamese, the app gives users’ access to the 4th editionof the Labor Law Guide, together with a range of other interesting features both for factory personnel and industry partners.Apart from this the app also contains an interactive quiz to test a person’s knowledge of the law,

not only help factories to better understand the law and ensure compliance, but also educate outside users on the situation of factories and the compliance challenges faced in the industry.

“We hope the app will be a valuable reference for factory managers, HR officers and compliance staff, as well as buyers and vendors with sourcing interests in Vietnam,” informs Better Work Vietnam.

as well as a ‘Frequently Asked Questions’ section featuring some of the most common legal questions asked by factories. By bringing Vietnamese law to employers and workers’ fingertips, the app will

Since last year the Swedish apparel retailer KappAhl has increased the proportion of its sustainable fashion range to 38 per cent from 24 per cent, which is up by 60 per cent. According to the retailer’s sustainability commitments all its cotton garments will be sustainablyproduced by 2020. Currently, all its cotton clothing in its men’s shirts and children’s collection Kaxs and the whole baby collection, Newbie is sustainably manufactured.“Our ambitious sustainability work has produced results. The goal is for our share of sustainable fashion to continue increasing every year. More sustainable garments in the customers’ closet, is a priority for KappAhl and is the only possible way forward to create a sustainable business as sustainability and profitabilityare two sides of the same coin,” reveals Danny Feltmann, CEO, KappAhl.

‘Better Work' launches Labor Law app in Vietnam

Levi's and Evrnu partner for breakthrough environment-friendly jeans

KappAhl increases its range of sustainable fashion

of cotton and eliminating waste by breathing new life into usedclothing. The first prototype, in the form of a pair of iconic Levi’s 511 jeans, represents a future where textile waste would be reduced considerably and cotton garments could be continually regenerated to create a more sustainable world.“As a company, we still drive for profitable growth; but it is

Recently, the textile technology start-up Evrnu and global jeanswear brand Levi’s Strauss & Co. have announced the creation of the world’s first jeans made from regenerated post-consumer cotton waste. Using a patent- pending recycling technology, discarded consumer waste has been converted into a renewable fibre resulting in the extended life

responsible, not negligent growth. By encouraging better garment care practices and long-term ownership, along sustainable technologies like Evrnu, we hope to resolve some of the tension that obviously exists betweengrowth and sustainability, confirms Paul Dillinger, Vice-President of product innovation, Levi Strauss& Co. Further Stacy Flynn, CEO of Evrnu, adds, “In addition to 100per cent post-consumer cotton, we can also breakdown pre-consumer garment waste, cut waste and shoddy/short staple cotton as well.We have tremendous amounts of feedstock from various cotton waste sources across the globe.Our technology has been designed with the goal of breaking down the most difficult fibres and blends, so we can make sure everything else can be broken down as well.”

Currently available in both English and Vietnamese, the app gives users’ access to the 4th edition ofthe Labor Law Guide, together with a range of other interesting features.

TO ADVERTISEContact Rani Mahendru+91-11-47390000 (512)[email protected]

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ith global apparel retail salesW touted to cross US $ 1.4

trillion by the end of 2016, the sourcingoptions for apparel retailers have never been so diverse. Even as the fraternity makes peace with China’s mounting wages, the paceat which Bangladesh has developed and Vietnam is being developed is

enthralling. India has been struggling to stay competitive and though small run, design-oriented programmesare coming to the country; it is not enough to sustain the industry and its growth path. Meanwhile, the wage bomb is ticking for all destinations and even in both Bangladesh and Vietnam, where the economy is improving, the opportunities in other sectors will soon start weaningaway the workforce from apparel

factories to other emerging sectors. Simultaneously, Ethiopia has emerged as the hot and actively pursued manufacturing destination.

ETHIOPIA, AN ATTRACTIVE INVESTMENT…

Ethiopia is said to be a place where one can go for fibre to factory, and cheap plentiful labour at US $ 21a month, inexpensive power, and a Free Trade Agreement with US augment the country’s business case; top it up with vast land, ripe for cultivation of cotton which will serve as a source of raw material.The biggest challenges that remain, however, are the production inefficiencies and lack of a competent local sourcing network rather than the widespread perception of beinga corrupt nation and not being as dexterous as Asians.Though the export is a mere US$ 60 million at present, the companies that have established their presence in Ethiopia are building capacities which will translate to exponential growth. Despite the fact that thereis no comparison between Ethiopia and Myanmar, Ethiopia is considered the first choice destination to set up a factory.In spite of some striking flaws in Ethiopia’s politics, economy and infrastructure, as far as the production of garments for theWestern markets is concerned, there’s a feeling that the country has a great future. Many sourcing specialists who have explored the global opportunities agree that today Ethiopia is the place

The campaign for ‘Make in India’ is only getting louder, but does it in anyway impact or influence the garment industry, and more importantly, is there anything in the recent ‘special package’ for the garment industry that could encourage fresh investments in this industry that too in tier 2 and tier 3 cities, where the labour is located…, not many have an answer to that! While many feel that the spirit and intent of the policy is really good and it is now up to the industry to derive the value. As it stands today, fresh investments have to be seen in the context of options available to manufacturers on a global basis, and since the apparel trade is no longer centric to one manufacturing base, companies are setting up factories in different places, both within and outside the country, to get mileage from location strengths.

Foundation stone was laid by Santosh Kumar Gangwar, former Union Textiles Minister, for Apparel and Garment Making Centres in each of the seven states in the North Eastern Region. Work on the centres has commenced and is nearing completion in some states

Does ‘Make in India’ have the punch to attract investments in apparel manufacturing?

• North-East, the focus for Government• Industry feels the region is not ready for garment

manufacturing

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fter the recent announcement of aA‘special package’ for the

apparelexport industry by the Ministry of Textiles, stakeholders in made-ups and home textiles segment are also lobbying for a similar package. The move was clearly noticed ata recent event of Texprocil (The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council) in Mumbai, where a study report “Textile Industry as a vehicle of job creation for inclusive growth” by Texprocil and Ernst & Young was released.According to the report, India has already lost market share in EU in 37 items including home textiles to Pakistan in the year 2015-16. With a tariff disadvantage of 9.6% to 12% on home textiles, severalimporters in EU opt to import from Pakistan and Bangladesh rather than from India, thereby causing a huge loss of businessto Indian exporters in this high-volume market. In this scenario, home textiles segment really needs support, argued the officials of Texprocil. The report further

says that home textiles is also equally labour-intensive as garments. The process is the same, adding value after cutting the fabric and using trims in the manufacturing of finished products. On the other hand, SIMA (The Southern India Textile Mills’ Association) too demanded for the same.The industry can expect some positive outcome as Rashmi Verma, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, assured the gathering during the event that a special packagefor employment generation & promotion of made-ups & home textiles will be included in the forthcoming Textile Policy.The study says that home textiles industry equally suffers the tariff disadvantage of9.6 per cent to 16 per cent in countries like EU and Canada, thereby losing business to other competing countries and hence the home textiles segment should be treated at par with apparel segment of the value chain. R K Dalmia, Chairman, Texprocil, who is also Senior President of Century Textiles, (Division at Century Textiles &

Industries Ltd.) stated that this study was done by conducting primary research in various production centres and also by one-on-one meetings with manufacturersand exporters of fabric and home textiles in small, medium and large scale sectors. He emphasized that the present apparel special package benefit should be extended to home textiles sector immediately so that the two packages are implemented simultaneously. This will not only lead to substantial increase in employment in rural India but also augment export of home textiles products.Anurag Malik, Partner EY (Skill Development) adds that in reality, manufacture of products such as bed linen is more labour-intensive than garments because of requirement of twice the manpower per piece for handling the large size of the products. Pending the finalization of EU-India FTA, to check the sliding business volumes with EU, in particular home textiles, it is appropriate to treatall the ‘cut and sew’ products (including

AFTER ‘SPECIAL PACKAGE’ FOR APPARELS, HOME TEXTILES SEGMENT HOPES FOR SAME

H2F

(L-R) Anurag Malik, Partner EY (Skill Development); Ujwal Lahoti, Vice Chairman – Texprocil; R K Dalmia, Chairman, Texprocil; Rashmi Verma, Textiles Secretary; Kavita Gupta, Textiles Commissioner; and Manikam Ramaswami, immediate past Chairman, Texprocil during the event

‘SPECIAL PACKAGE’ FOR APPAREL INDUSTRY HAS CREATED A POSITIVE SENTIMENT IN THE ENTIRE SUPPLY CHAIN AND HOME TEXTILES COMPANIES TOO ARE POSITIVE.

TO ADVERTISEContact Rani Mahendru+91-11-47390000 (512)[email protected]

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hether it’s a delicate blushWor a bright fuchsia

orsomething in-between – designers are all about pink, this Resort season. Salmon pink is the sweetest colour for Resort 2017, best paired with a more sour side shade like mustard, Roksanda Illincic’s choice. Gucci, too, gave their sugary hues some edge with a smattering of bold accessories. This quintessentially feminine colour was incorporated in outfits, unapologetically, from head totoe at Boss and Lela Rose, using pleats and frills, respectively.Valentino went for a brighter pink when the pants, polo neck knit and embellished coat were concocted. Bottega Veneta chose a shiny fabric and dusty rosefor their skirt suits and it was Altuzarra who put the pink knit dress on the map.

ResortMoving 2017

away from athleisureLook ahead not that far into the distance and you’ll see that next Summer’s fashion trends arealready breaking. Designers have presented their Resort collections, telling us what clothes we would want to wear when this Winter’s over, but next Spring hasn’t quite started. Over the years, Resort collections have become more and more important to consumers, as they stay ona retailer’s shelves the longest. What they may be seeing a lot less is of, however, athleisure – a trend that has had massive popularity for the past few cycles. Meanwhile, trends like bomber jackets, slip dresses, cold shoulders and wide-leg pants are still going strong. From sporty jackets to logos, here are the standout fashion trends from the Resort 2017 collections.

Everything pinkBOTTEGA VENETA >> LELA ROSE

>>

<< ALTUZARRA

<< VALENTINO

DIRECTIONS BY



he 1980s logo revival was carriedTout with pride with one

clearstatement displayed on the front of a T-shirt or sweater or dress. Marc Jacobs drew on the loudest parts of the era for his Resort collection – crimped hair, neon colours and MTVlogos. Marc’s disco-ready sweatshirts were the in-between-season hero pieces. Many designers made sureto stamp their signatures and logos on clothes, rendering the simplest of garments, ultra-cool. MSGM used it on panelled sporty T-shirts; Gucci and Chanel did the same but with a more vacation vibe to the looks. Moschino infused their brand name logo in the midst of colourful prints on dresses, whereas, Givenchy kept things monochrome and clean so the logo is in complete focus.

Logo maniaGIVENCHY >>

MSGM >>

<< CHANEL

<< MOSCHINO

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN >>

DIOR >>

<< ANNA SUI

<< CALVIN KLEIN

his Resort season, everything’sTrevolving around roses

andother flowers, too. Florals were small but graphic interpretations werethe biggest hit for most collections where it was less chintz and more flower power. Designers covered dresses, skirts, jumpsuits and tops in tiny floral motifs, prints and patterns, giving a gardenlike aura to the garments. Prada not only put micro florals on their midi-lengthdresses but also the shower caps that complimented the clothes perfectly. Dior and Calvin Klein also used tiny flowers on 1920s style midi dresses in flowing fabrics. Anna Sui opted for a sheer floral dress with a Victorianneckline but the most intriguing piece was by Alexander McQueen who created a panelled dress with frills and more.

Micro florals

DIRECTIONS BY



ombers, macs, parkas – take yourBpick from the most

practical ofouterwear options for 2017. Louis Vuitton’s sport-themed Rio show was packed with full of posh bombers, while Givenchy, Coach, Sacai and more presented decorative takeson the same. While it certainly isn’t a new trend, we couldn’t gowithout name-checking the bomber. Embellished versions have been going strong for a few seasons, and at this point every designer and their sister labels are offering their own versions. According to this Resort season, the bomber is here to stay, and it’s ready for the eveningwear – embroidered, sequined at Gucci, laced up at Giamba, metallic at Marc Jacobs or otherwise armed with a feminine, elegant touch when paired with skirts and dresses.

Evening bomber

GUCCI >>

VALENTINO >>

<< GIAMBA

<< MARC JACOBS

DELPOZO >>

MONSE >>

<< CAROLINA HERRERA

<< ADEAM

here’s never been a better timeTto play with proportion than

now.From oversized sleeves to extremely flared pants, these are the most balanced, yet out-of-order looksof the season. Bell sleeves, flared trousers and huge peplums distorted the silhouettes for the designers.Delpoo and Carolina Herrera went for oversized trousers, cropped and wide-legged, respectively whilecinching the waist for an exaggerated effect, giving a peplum look to the tops. Ellery opted for a pair ofextra wide-legged trousers too, but went a step ahead by choosing bell sleeves. Monse’s version included a supersized cargo pants and Adeam redefined relaxed silhouettes with a sweatshirt on top of a loose grey dress.

Out of proportion

DIRECTIONS BY



aking inspiration from previousTSpring/Summer fashion

trends oflong on long silhouettes, designers have transferred the same into their Resort 2017 seasonal collectionsas well. Ensuring that the dress is matched with distinct pant styles, the makers keep an eye on every single detailing. The emergence of this ‘dress- over-pants’ fashion also proves that the ’90s mania from the summers has not yet died; making us witness runways full of layered separates. The layered look has been a popular trend in recent years, and this season, trendsetters are taking it a bold step further with the dress-over-pants.Speaking of dresses, the interpretation of a dress-over-pants isn’t just for mini dresses. Midi dress with skinny jeans, or slim-fitting trousers, a knee-length dress with cropped denim, etc. are major versions as well. As what is trending now, designers are choosing longer hems that sit just above the knee or midi lengths for a street style edge. Neutral shades like black, white, camel, khaki, navy, or grey are the most utilized colours for this trend.Long shirt-dress in solid neutral worn over skinnies is extra-sophisticated with an even longer coat.Opting for the dress-over-pants fashion means you have to think of the proportion. Designers and

exporters put a major concentration on this point while working on this trend. A mini or short dress that hits around mid-thigh is paired withslim-cut trousers to create a balanced silhouette. Another silhouette catching maximum popularity is the maxi dress with streamlined pants. Vijay Sanon, Proprietor, A.P. Handicrafts says, “A maxi with very high slit that extends above the waistline is the best choice for creating flow and lighter effect.”Jil Sander, Peter Som, and Chanel championed the skirts-over-pants trend on the Spring runways, and now designers like ALC, Cedric Charlier, Ellery and Osmantook the look to the Resort collections as well. The dresses of varied lengths are paired with jeans, culottes, leggings, pyjama pants, etc. Some designers are also making conscious efforts to make matching sets out of this trend to continue with the head-to-toe fashion trend from previous seasons.

Dress-over-jeansSpeaking of proportion, skinny jeans or jeggings make the best match for most dresses. Other slim-fit trousers such as linen pants, cigarette pants, crop pants, even yoga pants look neat with mini-dresses, midis or dresses with asymmetrical hemlines.

Dress & Trouser Combo receives a fun and bolder-than-ever avatar for Spring ’17…

Dress-over-pantsFashion or Faux Pas!

Dress-over-pants…, seems like a complete out of the box concept, but is gaining immense popularity with designers lately. The recently concluded Resort 2017 runways shed light over this trend as being one of the top fashion styles. As an ideal transitional piece, long and lean silhouettes have continued being major fashion influencers since the last few seasons, and dress-over-pants is the next level of this long on long silhouette trend. Tunics, midis, maxis, long dresses with slits were always the unrecognized heroes oftraditional dressing, but with extended overlapping between summer and winter, these styles have paired with varied types of trousers giving out an experimental look which is popular with the buyers as well. Aware of the trend, exporters in India are also running parallel and are developing dresses with pants in distinct ways…

FASHION BUSINESS

Edun



Dress-over-culottesCulottes in different lengths and varied guises are entering the industry to suit the sartorial styles of women…, and if the trend is demanding getting layered with dresses, then why not? Cendric Charlier showcased denim adaptations of wide-legged calf length pants with flowy sheer tunics, whereas, BCBG Max Azria and Carven presented formal looking wide hem cropped culottes in heavy weight taffeta and pinstriped fabrics with ruffled dress. Culottes are officially termed as the ‘must-have’ pants for incorporating with dresses. Aditi Talwar, Assistant Merchandiser, Orient Craft India, discussing the variations in their collections said, “Culottes are being developed for the season with matching dresses. The fit has loosened a little bit to come in line with dress hem.Dress-over-pyjama pantsDress-over-trousers variant, seen at Hermès in cool cream, as frayed

fatigues at Chanel, and in silky guise at Dries Van Noten. Kenzo’s oversized coat was almost swamped by mega- wide palazzos – an oversized sweater would be a worthy substitute. Team a long dress with loose trousers and an even lengthier vest, seems to be the message. Following suite, this summer, most of the casual wear collections are inspired by nightwear, makingthe complete look very cosy and comfortable. Alberta Ferretti featured linen trenches and pyjama-like pants with long dresses, and Calvin Klein’s loose pyjama pants in black and white have paved the way for teaming softer versions with maxi gowns. While Alexander Wang cashed in on the innocent look with flowing pyjamas and asymmetric slip dress, Karen Walker added prints and drawstrings to give a college feel in their designs tapping a younger teen market.

Dress-trouser setUsing prints as a medium to define their matching tops and bottoms, Antonio Marras garnished his dress and a pair of flared trousers with pleated floral print. On the other hand, Emilio Pucci prepared an array of stripes in assorted colours to showcase the popular patchwork-effect. The collection mesmerized us in a kaleidoscope of colours that moved in vertical bands from shoulders to feet. Taking calligraphy art too seriously, Kenzo adorned his dress and trousers with white on black African inspired elements. Rupa Dutt, Vice-President, Lady London elaborated on the trend, “Dress-trousers sets are in demand, continuing from the summer season with matching pants. The upper could be a long T-shirt, mini dress or a maxi with a slit.”

FASHION BUSINESS

Apiece Apart

Tunics teamed with straight pants, jeggings, and funky tights have turned into all-in-ones. Christopher Kane and Alexander Wang opted for elegant maxi versions in silk with a slit with denims underneath. Shalini Singh, Assistant Merchandiser, Joyline,a buying house dealing with brands across US and Europe, avers, “High- low asymmetric hems gave a new twist to the dresses and were latermore accentuated by slim fit trousers.” Rebecca Taylor layered her printed body-con dress with a patched denim version keeping the look casual, whereas, Suno went for cropped denim culottes with an off-shoulder checked dress. Altuzarra Apiece Apart

Cushnie et Ochs



Maria Grazia Chiuri has been confirmed as the new Artistic Director at Christian Dior, replacing Raf Simons who departed the label in October 2015. Chiuri, who is Dior’s first female Artistic Director, previously headed up the women’s wear collections at Valentino alongside her co-designer Pierpaolo Piccioli since 2008. Chiuri is to start next week as Artistic Director of women’s haute couture, ready-to- wear and accessory collections with her first show slated for September30. “It is a great honour to be joining the house of Dior,” said Chiuri ina statement.

Burberry has appointed Marco Gobbetti as CEO, and who joins the house from Céline where he iscurrently working as Chairman and CEO, a position he has held since 2008. Christopher Bailey, who has been CEO – in addition to being Chief Creative Officer – since Angela Ahrendts left in 2014, has been appointed to the role of President. “I am very excited that Marco Gobbetti is joining us as Chief Executive Officer and as a partner to me,” saidBailey in a statement, adding, “Marco brings incredible experience and skills in luxury and retail with him that will be invaluable to us...”

Maria Grazia Chiuri now with Dior

Burberry appoints new CEO

Kanye West has embarked on a new project with Adidas in what thesportswear label is calling “the most significant partnership ever created between an athletic brand and a non-athlete”. The collaborators have created Adidas + Kanye West, “aYeezy-branded entity creating footwear, apparel and accessories for all genders across street and sport”. Createdby the in-house team with West’s direction, the new line will have a focus on performance-related designs. “In the past two years Adidas and Yeezy have given a glimpse into our future. This partnership illustrates that anyone with a dream can dream without limitations,” said West.

Kanye's new partnership with Adidas

This season is all about thepeasant blouse, which is a must- have, especially for the young contemporary market. With a strong bearing on bohemian looks, design details include full sleeves, keyhole or high necks and tie or ruffle front details. Joie and Tommy Hilfiger madetheir case-in-point with the tie front detail in shades

of white, where one went for a simple version; the other chose a romantic print, diaphanous fabric and a plunging neckline. Sleeves were the focal point for others like Temperley London who played around with soft ruffles and Gucci leftno stone unturned when it came to colours and embellishment on their tops.

FASHION FILE

Colour Story

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FASHION RESOURCE



The fusing of categories has become something of a prevailing fashion trend in the decade that we’re in.The amalgamation of men’s wear and women’s wear is dominating the catwalks; the rise of athleisure and sportswear has resulted in luxe interpretations becoming widely deemed as acceptable attire; and loungewear and nightwear have been introduced and adopted as suitable daywear options. The latter is where Three Graces London comes in. Inspired by thick, cotton vintage gowns, the brand now has a bona fide ready-to-wear offering to meet demand. “We are told that customers, in addition to buying our pieces as nightwear,are also purchasing many of our dresses to wear on holidays as eveningwear and as beach cover- ups,” said Catherine Johnson, Founder of the label..

Tiffany & Co has appointed Reed Krakoff to collaborate on a new accessories and homewares collection. The American designer, who suspended his eponymous label last March, will work alongside the famous jeweller’s Design Director, Francesca Amfitheatrof, in creating his new designs.“I grew up with Tiffany; it’s a brand that has a lot of strong emotional attachments and has an emotional attachment. To be able to contribute to the heritage and history of a global brand that combines design, quality and craftsmanship is really rare today and I thinkTiffany is a leader in that. To be part of that is really exciting to me,” Reed said.

Tiffany & Co confirms Reed Krakoff

Three Graces London: New nightwear label

FASHION RESOURCE



Starting off as just a functional viability in a garment, the regular ribbons, laces, cords, buttons and zippers can nowbe seen as surface ornamentation in assortment of designs and patterns. Driven by innovation, these value-added accessories are ruling the fashion shows and are predicted to continue impressing the world by their innovative design concepts and applications inthe upcoming seasons as well. Dheeraj Pajni, Senior Merchandiser, Kimo Clothing Design Concept Pvt. Ltd. says, “Laces, ribbons, drawstrings, cords– dangling loosely along sleeves, at the neck or up the back, are the design detail of choice this season. As a result, clothes look a little undone, with dangling cords and have plenty of subversive attitudes.”Delpozo showcased garments with simple pragmatic touches like cuffs and collars, embellished to the hilt with couture-level beading, snapped off so that blouses could be more easily cleaned, and crop tops came knitted out with built-in boning and concealedhook-and-eye closures for ease of wear. On the other hand, Hervé Léger by Max Azria used zippers to control dress silhouettes creating conceal-and-reveal apertures (zip down for a fitted skirt, zip up for flare) and ruffles within the

dress. The recently concluded Resort 2017 runways showcased a wide variety of ways, fasteners were shown retaining their functionality but at the same time when high on aesthetics.Button ClosuresEdun, emphasizing the continuation of ideas from previous seasons that worked well, presented knits with fringed hems, artisan-carved buttons. Edun added a touch of tradition in its collection by adding organic cotton canvas from South Africa, the striped pullovers from Madagascar, and hand- carved mother-of-pearl buttons by a Kenyan artisan. Vaguely ’80s blouseswith funnel necks straddled the runway with buttons running from chin to wrist, allowing a window onto the shoulders for cocktail hour at Theory. Meanwhile,Ohlin rounded out his line-up with denim, rendered in a superlight wash, andsilk separates, including a pastel pink bell-sleeve blouse and an asymmetrical sleeveless top with a ruffled hemline and iridescent buttons. Anima Singh, Assistant Designer, Sult Exports, discussing about buttons used as closures but still being fashionable says, “We box pleat the fabric and

Traditional garment fasteners become trendy value additions in S/S ’17…

Fabulous Fasteners!

Fasteners have always been a major part of garmenting. Buttons, zippers, lace ups, ribbons are some of the fasteners which have helped in putting a garment together since the very beginning. With fasteners getting more and more attention and being visible on the surface, designers each season try and induce something new to these trims. A garment is incomplete till the time it is not finished with fasteners or closures; interestingly in the quest of being creative, trims have become a crucial design element as well. We have talked about, how trims are used involving aesthetic placements to be used as value addition, but now the fasteners are gaining popularity by being used vividly while continuing to being used as a closure only. Moving ahead from the simple ribbons, laces, cords, buttons and zippers from last year, the Summer and Fall of 2017 will bring with it fasteners which will impress fashion enthusiasts in the upcoming seasons…

Rebecca Taylor

VALUE ADDITION

Tibi



place the buttons within the in-fold, so that the design is only partially visible, but is appealing. Now studdedand shank buttons are being used as a replacement to normal buttons. We use iridescent buttons for pocket closures and sometimes get 3-D buttons or placate closures. The Russian market that we work in does not experiment so much, but they require very fancy trims, therefore we mostly work on shapes and textures of buttons.”Lace Up TiesLace up ties is basically a lacing technique where the fabric ends are decorated with grommets and then the lacing are passed through to create interlaced closures. Apiece Apart’s latest collection reiterated most of the signatures that they have worked so hard to establish in the past few years – versatile knitwear, denim and tailoring, and relaxed separates and dresses infused with a southwestern aesthetic and a sense of romance, complete with lace up ties. Cushnieet Ochs’s strongest looks were the high-waisted flares and palazzo pants paired with taut tops, which despite their simplicity, vis-à-vis silhouette, didn’t lack compelling detail

and were complete with lace up ties on the neckline and sleeves. Put together in a line, to join at the ends and create a peek-a-boo effect, lace up tie shave entered spring collections as well. “We are putting together lace up ties on a lot of blouses and top styles. Here lace upties are not only being used as fasteners but are put together as necklines and back detailing as well,” said Niraj Pugalia, CEO, Silver Apparels, talking about his latest collections.Toggle FastenersToggle fastenings are often made of wood, buffalo horn, metal or plastic. In contrast to the disc-shaped button, the toggleis usually long and narrow. The duffel coat features four toggle fastenings, sometimes known as “walrus teeth”. The toggle fastenings insert through loops of rope or leather to help fasten the frontof the coat. A person wearing gloves is able to fasten and unfasten these toggle fasteners. Designers like Apiece Apart utilized toggle fasteners in places where they were used as fasteners and also aesthetic elements. Goonjan Kumar, Designer, JJ Expo Impo, discussing about toggle fasteners said, “Toggle closures are garnished on the seams,

where the slit is created by unfastening the closures. The hoops and loops are used in decorating the hem of the tops and blouses as well whereas the button is placed on the top hem of the bottom wear, so that the fastening makes the top and bottom into one garment and the unfastening makes those separates.”Frog ClosuresInspired from military clothing articles, a frog closure is an ornamental braiding for fastening the front of a garment that consists of a button and a loop through which it passes. The purpose of frogsis to provide a closure for a garment while decorating it at the same time. Tops with a mandarin collar often use frogs at the shoulder and down the front to keep the two sections of the front closed. Frogs are usually meant to be a design detail that “stands out”. The same frog closures were seen in collectionsof varied designers in the Resort 2017. Jenny Peckham showcased a range of garments taking inspiration from India. She mixed classic sequins with flower- shaped palettes and paisley motifs that added a playful feel. A perfect closure was put to these garments by inclusion of frog closures.

Jill Stuart Suno No. 21

VALUE ADDITION



n a significant, but surprising turnIof events, high profile and

vocalSmriti Irani has replaced Santosh Kumar Gangwar as the Union Textiles Minister. While the industry rejoices, the media has branded the moveas a demotion, underplaying the importance of the Ministry and the need for having a strong Minister at the helm. One of India’s leadingdailies, the Hindustan Times writes, “Smriti Irani’s shift from the high- profile HRD Ministry to the distinctly unglamorous Textiles Ministry came as a clear indication that PM Modi wanted his ministers to keep a low profile.” The newspaper’s headline reads, ‘Smriti Irani moved to low- profile Textiles Ministry’. Another daily, the Times of India, reacting on the news writes, ‘Stunning rise and a sudden demotion’; its lead news too reads, ‘Shocker: Smriti shunted from HRD to textiles’, and so stated other newspapers too…Smriti Irani, known for her aggressiveness and quick actions, is just what the industry needed after

Santosh Kumar Gangwar, who was soft spoken and submissive in public domain. Ashok Rajani, Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council expressing his delight at the appointment, told to Apparel Online, “The mainstream media projected the Textiles Ministry in a very wrong way, which is indeed sad and only shows their ‘ignorance’. We are pleasedwith the appointment as she is intelligent, young and will surely be able to help the Textiles Industry which is one of the most important pillars of the economy. Moreover, the recently announced package ofRs. 6,000 crore (US $ 923 million) for the apparel export industry shows that Prime Minister is concerned for the Textiles and Apparel Industry.”Smriti Irani is also trending on Twitter. Deepak Mohindra, Editor- in-Chief, Apparel Online tweeted, “Whoever says that Tex Ind is trivial and insignificant, is naive. It only needed Ministers like #Smriti Irani, expect max jobs and revenue. With#Smriti Irani now the textiles lead,

Smriti Irani and Ajay Tamta greeting each other in the former’s chamber, on the joining of MoT

I am sure something good is in for the#textiles sector…”Shishir Jaipuria, Chairman, FICCI Textiles Committee tweeted, “As the industry is undergoing a tough phase, we believe that Smriti Irani’s leadership will help overcome the challenges.” Even Dr. A. Sakthivel, President, TEA, congratulated the new Minister; he also requestedher to announce the guidelines and procedures to be followed under the recently announced ‘Special Package’ for garment sector.After taking the charge, the Minister while addressing the industry and media said, “The textiles sector has a lot of unrealized potential in terms of skilling and employment, and that it can play a very important role inscaling up the ‘Make in India’ vision of the Prime Minister. Besides improving the skills of the people already engaged in the sector, I would also take steps to bring more youngsters into the field.” She also added that the much-awaited new National Textile Policy “will soon see the light of the day”.

India’s Textiles Minister ‘changed’Sadly the mindset of media and politicians

‘unchanged’

ESSENTIALSAjay Tamta, a Lok Sabha MP from Almora constituency, Uttarakhand, also took charge as Minister of State (Ministry of Textiles). He has also served as aCabinet Minister in the Government of Uttarakhand.

INDIA CANVAS

“Everyone talks of ‘Make in India’, but no one knows what benefits they are going to get. It has to be taken to the people; you need to highlight the benefits.”– R Selvan, Executive Director, Mehalap48



INDIA CANVAS

Showing solidarity with the country, Panipat-based home furnishing exporters and other industries decided to boycott China fornot supporting India’s entry to NSG (Nuclear Suppliers Group). Handloom Exports Manufacturers’ Association (HEMA) and the Haryana Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Panipat chapter are leading the boycott. HEMA claims to have more than 1,000 members in Panipat, the city with an annual turnover of US $ 4,615 million(Rs. 30,000 crore) per annum in domestic and international markets of textile industry, has become a major textile hub. Not only thatthe exporters have also decided that they will not attend the “ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016” to be held in Shanghai in October 2016. Talking to Apparel Online, Ramesh Verma, President, HEMA said, “Our step is very significant asit will motivate other industries across the nation to avoid Chinese product be it machinery or any kind of raw material. We are sure that boycott of China will not impactany of our fellow industrialists. As far as this particular ITMA ASIA + CITME 2016 is concerned, we have the option of European machines rather than to go for Chinese.”

Prestigious Pearl Academy, a Delhi-based fashion institute with centres in Noida, Mumbaiand Jaipur, refused to get ‘notice of closure’ from the UGC. According to a report by a leading Indian daily Hindustan Times, in a notice to Pearl Academy, the UGC says that Pearl Academy is not authorized to grant any degree either in a standalone mode orin collaboration with any foreign university. The Commission’s order follows mounting complaints against private institutes tyingup with foreign universities to offer degrees, which is not legally allowed in India. It said the

Academy is not a “university”, according to a 1956 Law that governs India’s higher education system. The Academy is awarding joint degrees with Nottingham Trent University (NTU) of Britain. However, the Academy states that it is not doing anything wrong. When Apparel Online asked Sharad Mehra, CEO of Pearl Academyon how the Academy is issuing degrees when it is not ‘approved’ from UGC, he said, “We are not issuing degrees; degrees are of Nottingham Trent University.”Later in a statement, the Academy said, “Pearl Academy has not

received any ‘notice of closure’ from the UGC and is working with the relevant authorities on the misleading report which has caused immense grief to our students, staff and faculty.As an institution with over 20 years of experience and a strong track-record of quality and strong student outcomes, Pearl Academy stands committed to its students, staff and faculty.As stated repeatedly – the institution does not awarddegrees. Any degree awarded is directly by the Nottingham Trent University which is one of the institution’s partners.”

‘Boycott of China will not impact Panipat

Pearl Academy refuses to get ‘notice of closure' from the UGC

If all goes well and according to plan of SGCCI (Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerceand Industry) and SGPTA (South Gujarat Textile Processors’ Association) promoted Pinjrat project – 25 kilometers from Surat– can fetch huge investments. Counting it as a dream project,B. S. Agarwal, President, SGCCI told, “As all units will be new here, per unit investment will be at least Rs. 500 crore, so total investment will be really huge. It is an ideal place for all kinds of units, beit weaving, processing or even garmenting, because it is near to sea. So there will be no issue of water scarcity; besides it is aGovernment land, and there will be no issue of acquisition also.”He further added that the development of this area will add value to nearby villages, and so he doesn’t foresee any

with top industrialists of Surat,” he added. Jitendra P. Vakharia, President of SGTPA added that it is too early to say anything about Chinese companies. “We are more concerned about environmentclearance as our process house will invest heavily in infrastructure.”

kind of opposition by locals. “Though there is no time-frame or deadline for the project, since it is planned as most important step for the region; the Government’s permission for land is already in discussion stage. Soon we will meet the Textiles Minister along

Pinjrat, dream project of SGCCI can fetch huge investments

Ramesh Verma, President, HEMA

B. S. Agarwal, President, SGCCI

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Apparel imports by the US see downturn in first five monthsJ a n u a r y - M a y 2 0 1 6 The US import of apparel has been slow since the starting of the year, but post-March the imports have moved into the negative zone. This downward movement has impact on exports from all major centres, and India could register only 2.57% growth in volumes and 1.97% gains in value in the period Jan.-May 2016. The average UVR for India was US $ 3.52, which was higher than US average of US $ 3.02, during the review period.

EXPORT STATISTICS

Global Apparel Imports by the US: Jan.-May 2016

Value Decrease2.13

%Volume Increase0.49

%

[The information has been extractedfrom US custom site and further analyzed.]

US $ 3.10

US $ 3.02

876543210

2015

2016Year

Aver

age

UVR

(per

kg

of fa

bric

eq

uiva

lent

)

Total apparel exports to the US by India and its competitors — Jan.-May ’16

Countries Jan.-May ’15 Jan.-May ’16 % Change

Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value

India 479.45 1698.28 491.774 1731.764 2.57 1.97

Bangladesh 771.87 2222.65 804.167 2264.161 4.18 1.87

China 3734.39 9967.86 3761.067 9575.184 0.71 -3.94

Pakistan 243.53 568.59 222.421 499.887 -8.67 -12.08

Sri Lanka 205.08 849.45 205.289 861.994 0.10 1.48

Vietnam 1264.37 4024.28 1327.541 4188.045 5.00 4.07

Qty & value in mn M2 & US $

% ChangeQty Value Qty Value Qty Value

Cotton 4847.01 16262.30 4712.231 15342.914

-2.78 -5.65

Wool 42.75 835.94 42.392 792.097 -0.84 -5.25

MMF 5181.39 13879.49 5358.927 14134.109

3.43 1.83

Silk & Veg 165.99 780.36 173.534 812.092 4.54 4.07

Total 10237.14 31758.09 10287.08 31081.21 0.49 -2.13Qty & value in mn M2 & US $

Total global apparel imports by the US — Jan.-May ’16

Type of Apparel Jan.-May ’15 Jan.-May ’16

Percentagedecrease in

UVR2.58%

5.65%Cotton

5.25%Wool1.83

%MMF

4.07%Silk & Veg

Change in Values

2.78%Cotton

0.84%Wool3.43

%MMF

4.54%Silk & Veg

Change in Volumes



52 A

ppar

el O

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e In

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Fashion Brand Analysis

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