Fancy Yarn Technology for superior flexibility - Marzoli€¦ · 3 2HIG MA RKETP M ONLC ILL...

Fancy YarnTechnology for superior flexibility

2

MARZOLI TECHNOLOGY FOR | FANCY YARN

Fancy Yarn / Market Potential & the Slub Effects

Market potential & Marzoli’s competence

For several years fancy yarns have been essential components of modern fashion and have been gaining more importance in the clothing sector, in furnishing and draperies. As demand for complex fabrics with distinguishing characteristics increases, so will the demand for fancy yarns.

Fancy yarn for fashionable fabric

Thanks to modern spinning plants, yarn regularity has reached very high levels, allowing to create even and homogeneous fabrics. Some applications, however, require a certain irregularity to give fabrics a sense of movement and a unique look. Slubbing devices create intentional defects in the yarn, in order to produce

these effects. These fabrics, often created by fashion designers, provide a higher contribution margin when compared with traditional fabrics, so more and more spinners are including fancy yarns in their product range by employing new and more advanced integrated slubbing devices.

Rising demand for denim fabric

Demand for denim fabrics has grown sharply and denim has gone from a basic, simple and durable fabricfor work clothing in the ‘70s and ‘80s to a fashion fabric with exclusive designs used for all occasions.World production in the last 10 yearshas increased by over 50% and it is

estimated that each year a pair of jeans is sold for every inhabitant of the planet. Moreover with increasing global population and middle classes, the demand for denim fabric will likely grow also in the coming years, even at a higher rate.

Marzoli slubbing device

Marzoli was the first manufacturer to introduce a fully integrated fancy yarn device on its spinning frames.The close cooperation between Marzoli and some of its customers, who are world-wide leaders in the production of denim fabrics, has led to the continuous improvement of Marzoli’s slubbing device which today represents state of the art technology for yarn slubbing.

Worldwide denim production capacity

Billion meters

7

6.5

6

5.5

5

4.5

4

3.5

3

19951990 2000 2005 2010 2015

HIGH MARKET POTENTIALHIGHER CONTRIBUTION MARGINSFOR SPINNERSRISING DEMAND FOR FANCY YARNSSTATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGYFOR YARN SLUBBING

3


Slub effects

There are four basic slub effects: slub, multi-count, multi-twist, and reverse slub. The various combinations among these four can create infinite yarn and fabric designs.

The slub effect

The slub effect is obtained through continuous variations of the main draft. With Marzoli’s system to create a slub is as simple as setting its length in millimeters, its thickness (multiplier) as a percentage of the base yarn and its pause (distance between one slub and the next) in millimeters.Usually slubs have lengths between 30 and 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called “malfile’”, i.e. smalland frequent slubs that create aneffect of natural irregularity. Thanks to last generation electronics, high efficiency motors and special acceleration ramps (less than 0.1 seconds), Marzoli’s slubbing device is capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without compromising yarn quality and strength.(image 01)

The multi-count effect

The multi-count effect is obtained through prolonged variations of the maindraft. The result is a yarn that has different counts but constant twist.(image 02)

ANY SLUB EFFECTEASY SETTING OF THE SLUBBING DEVICESLUBS SHORTER THAN 20mmANY TYPE OF VISUAL EFFECT ON THE FABRIC

image 02

image 01

The multi-twist effect

The multi-twist effect does not entail count variations in the yarn: it only entails twist variations. The twist differential changes the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing. This creates interesting light and dark areas in the yarn and fabric.(image 03)

Multicount & Multitwist combination

Usually the multicount and the multitwist effects are used together as their combination entails very interesting effects on the fabric. The yarn, in this

case, does not have a constant count nor a constant twist: for each count a different desired twist, based on a selected constant “α”, is applied. The combination of the multicount and multitwist effects is obtained through a variation of the main draft to modify the count and a variation of the first cylinder speed to modify the twist.

The reverse slub effect

Reverse slub is obtained through continuous variations of the main draft that, unlike the slub effect, are negative and reduce the yarn thickness.

image 03

4


Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device

Brief history of Denim

The origins of the denim fabric go back to the beginning of the 1400. In those times Italian and French weavers were competing to produce a heavy and strong fabric with the unique characteristic of having a white weft and a blue warp yarn died with indigo, which is a vegetable substance derived from the plant indigofera tintoria native of India.The French fabric was named “denim” after

Leading-edge slubbing technology

Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device was the first integrated device available on the marketand, since its birth in 1999, it has been the world leader among integrated slubbing devices. Its market success (over 300,000 installed spindles) has been due to:

• Great flexibility. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device can produce any type of slub effect and all their combinations

(e.g. slub-on-slub, etc.). Its state-of-the-art technology allows to

produce slubs with length below 20 mm and make up to 20 slubs per meter.

• Quality of the yarn. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device does not create any weak point on the yarn thanks to special acceleration and deceleration curves.

• Perfect integration with the MDS1 spinning frame. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device works in perfect symbiosis without interfering with the performance

of the machine.

Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device Features

• fully integrated system;

• high performances and productivity;

• user-friendly and simple HMI, with values in mm and percentages;

• great versatility and flexibility;

• motors acceleration and deceleration ramps up to 10 ms, with sinusoidal shapes to produce yarn without weak points;

• automatic visualization of the graph related to the present slub recipe in order to check the right execution;

• automatic control of the slubs characteristics with warning in case of not workable parameters;

• minimum slub length below 20 mm with a multiplier of 1.80;

• multiplier up to 5 times the nominal count;

• up to 20 slubs per meter;

• slub formation without changing the front roller speed, for a perfect distribution of the twist on the yarn;

• 500 lines for 500 different slubs in a single recipe;

• automatic generation of the recipes inserting only the minimum and maximum parameters with a reading choice between “random”, “cycle” and “Mcch” system;

• up to 10,000 different recipes saved in the machine;

• connection to YarNet production management platform for the production of slub recipes on a remote PC;

• with the system “Draw your slub” it is possible to draw the shape of the slub

on the panel.

the city of Nimes where it was produced and sewn. In Italy it was named “bleu de Genes”, which means blue of Genoa, the city where it was produced and gave the name to the blue-jeans.In the mid Nineteenth century, a German tailor by the name of Straub used the Genoese fabric for the first time to produce a pair of strong and hard-wearing work

trousers for the workers of the many mines that were being opened in the United States.In a short time those strong and distinctive pants, with double stitching and metal rivets used to strengthen the pockets, became popular all over the world.Today they are the single most diffused item of clothing.

(Fashion Magazine, may 2011)

LEADING-EDGE TECHNOLOGYGREAT FLEXIBILITY - ANY TYPE OF SLUBSLUB LENGTH BELOW 20mmUP TO 20 SLUBS PER METERNO WEAK POINTS IN THE YARNPERFECT INTEGRATION WITH THE MDS1 SPINNING FRAME

5


Fully integrated system & high performance

Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device does not require any mechanical modificationto the spinning frame. Twist and draft variations are accomplished by simply modifying the speed on the independent motors that are already installed on the spinning frame. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device is therefore capable of producing fancy yarns of infinite forms and designs

500

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 m

1

-50

%Mass diagramIPI: -50/+100/+200%

150

0

1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.9 2 m-50


150

0

2 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3 m-50


150

0

3 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4 m-50


150

0

4 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 4.9 5 m-50


without requiring any modification to the spinning frame.With Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device, all slub options have unmatched performances. Moreover, thanks to independent drafting motors, high performance electronics, and acceleration ramps up to 0.1 seconds,it is possible to obtain slubs smaller than 20 mm with up to 20 slubs per meter.

NO MECHANICAL MODIFICATION TO THE SPINNING FRAMEINFINITE SLUB FORMS AND DESIGNSUNMATCHED PERFORMANCES

6


User-friendly interface

One of the distinguishing characteristics of Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device is its ease of use and simple settings. By using a touch screen, users canquickly enter all data needed to createany fancy yarn recipe.Slub recipes can also be easily transferred among different machines using a USB flash drive. Alternatively, thanks to YarNet platform the operator can insert the slub recipe on a remote PC and send it to the machine.

Slub combinations

• S (Slub)• MC (Multicount)• MT (Multitwist)• MC + MT• MC + S• MT + S• MC + MT + S• RS (Reverse slub)• RS + MC• RS + MT• RS + MC + MT• SOS + MC• SOS + MT• SOS + MC + MT

High Flexibility for any slub effect

Unlike other less performing slubbing accessories, Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device can produce all four slub effects and also combine them for an extensive rangeof designs. Its versatility, ease of use and performance have helped the Marzoli’s integrated slubbing device to gain market shares in segments that for a long time were exclusively dominated by specialized accessories.

SIMPLE AND IMMEDIATE SETTINGHIGH FLEXIBILITYANY SLUB EFFECT

7


No thin or weak points

One of the main challenges of fancy yarns is the formation of thin and weak points at the end of the slubs due to the motor deceleration. Thin and weak points enhance the number of yarn breakages during weaving operations and thus increase the number of defects on the fabric and reduce the efficiency of the machines.

With Marzoli Facy Yarn Device, thin and weak points are avoided thanks to the special curves, developed by Marzoli, for the acceleration and deceleration of the drafting cylinders.

NO WEAK POINTS IN THE YARNHIGHER RESISTANCEFEWER DEFECTS ON THE FABRICSHIGHER EFFICIENCY IN WEAVINGSUCCESSFUL SUPPLY TO SEVERAL INDUSTRY LEADERS ALL OVER THE WORLD

Marzoli’s curve

Normal curve

Marzoli’s world reference

Since its launch on the market in 1999, Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device has been supplied successfully all over the world to several industry leaders.

TRC Candiani Italy

Ital Denim Italy

Manifattura di Cene Italy

Berto Italy

Gruppo Tavex Morocco

Raymond India

Spentex India

Sara Spintex India

Gruppo Cone USA

Parkdale USA

Glen Raven USA

Canatiba Brazil

Vicunha Brazil

Cedro Brazil

Cotam Group Turkmenistan

Engine Group Turkmenistan

Sirikcioglu Turkey

Bossa Turkey

Kipas Denim Turkey

Maritas Turkey

Gap Turkey

Phong Phu Vietnam

Riaz Pakistan

DNM Egypt

Denim de l’Ile Mauritius

Argon Spinning Bangladesh

Square Texcom Bangladesh

8


Fancy Yarn / Draw Your Slub

The patented Marzoli system to edit fancy yarn recipes

In competitor devices the slub recipe is created through a table where the three parameters, length of the slub, multiplier and length of the pause, are manually edited.With the innovative and patented Marzoli system, the slub is drawn in a dedicated editor.

The “Draw Your Slub” system works as follows:

• the operator draws the slub through the dedicated editor;

• the operator gives an identification number to the new slub;

• the new slub (identification number) is recalled into the slub table.

The editor is very simple to use:by making a double click on the panel, the operator creates single points that are then connected with lines. The line shows the trend of the multiplier, i.e. the diameter of the slub (y) as a function of the length of the slub (x).Once the editing is over, the operator gives an identification number to the slub. Then, the operator recalls the identification number in the slub table and inserts the length and the pause of the slub.

length pause

mul

tiplie

r

“DRAW YOUR SLUB” APPLICATIONEASY EDITING OF SLUBSFAST DESIGN OF ANY TYPE OF SLUB

9


Example of drawn slub

Through the editor we create a slub witha saw tooth shape. We give to this drawing the identification number “5”.

We close the editor and we go back to the slub table. In the slub table we create a slub (Slub 1): we recall the slub shape identified with number 5 (ID#), we set 200 mm as slub length and 400 mm as pause length. Then, we create a second slub (Slub 2): we recall the slub shape identified with number 5 (ID#), we set 100 mm as slub length and 150 mm as pause length.

Slub 1 and 2 have the same shape (saw tooth) but different lengths, the first one 200 mm, the second one 100 mm. This is because at the slub drawing identified with number 5 have been applied two different lengths (line 1 and 2). It is possible to eliminate the pause in order to obtain a completely drawn yarn: it is sufficient to set 0 mm as pause length.

This system gives spinners enormous advantages: the most important one is that all kinds of slub drawings and shapes are achievable.In traditional systems (competitors) the slub can only have one constant diameter according to the set multiplier, while with Marzoli system the diameter may vary infinite times on every single slub. Moreover, in traditional systems the acceleration and deceleration ramps, that influence the visual effect of the yarn, are pre-setted. With Marzoli system acceleration and deceleration ramps are completely settable, also for every single slub.

An additional advantage is that with this system spinners may gradually change the count on long portions of yarn: they may create “incremental multicount” with a single and simple drawing inserting only the desired length. With the “old” system hundreds of program lines were required.

Slub 1

200mm

3x2x1x

100mm 150mm400mm

Slub 2Pause 1 Pause 2

10


The End2end production management platform: YarNet

Production monitoring

YarNet allows to monitor the entire spinning plant thanks to a multi-window screen. Each window displays real-time production data (count, twist, speed, production volumes, etc.), machines operating conditions (energy consumption, alarms,...) and, thanks to colored progress bars, machines statuses (red=alarm, blue=doffing, yellow=wait, green=run, etc.). This grants a clear overview of the whole plant and allows to immediately identify out-of-control operations, whose causes can then be studied.

Moreover, by juxtaposing production and consumption data, the customer can identify the best tradeoff between efficiency and production and adjust machines speed accordingly (Power Management System).

Production management

Thanks to YarNet, users can download, modify and send production recipes from their computer. Once a production recipe has been sent to a machine, the user can decide to start the new lot production automatically after the next doffing or to send a signal on the machine panel.In this case, the operator at the machine will decide if and when to start the production of the new lot.

During the editing of the recipe, the software analyzes the mechanical reduction of each motor and calculatesthe maximum and minimum tolerance values for each parameter.While the operator inserts the parameter values, the system continuously update and verifies the feasibility of the inserted data. If a parameter value exceeds its tolerance values, the interface warns

YarNet is Marzoli’s highly innovative production management software which allows the user to easily monitor and manage from his/her computer each& every machine of the spinning mill. Thanks to the simple and logical

EASY & FAST CONTROL OF EVERY STAGEOF THE SPINNING PROCESSIMPROVED SPEED OF RESPONSEIN PRODUCTION OPERATIONSPOWER MANAGEMENT (BEST TRADEOFF BETWEEN EFFICIENCY & PRODUCTION)EASY MANAGEMENT OF PRODUCTION RECIPESSoftware Platform / YarNet

structure of YarNet, with no complicated and useless functions, the customer can have a clear overview of the entire spinning plant and reach a highly improved speed of response in production operations. Furthermore, when the

customer must insert a new production recipe, he can do that while sittingin his office instead of standing in frontof the idle machine: this highly reduces the chances of mistakes and machine downtimes.

11


the user by highlighting the field in red.All the advantages of YarNet (lower chances of mistakes in the production recipe, lower downtimes of the machines and, last but not least, higher comfort of the customer) are even more evident with fancy yarn production: thanks to YarNet, the operator can create long and complex production recipes sitting in front of his computer in his office/laboratory instead of standing in front of the touch screen of the idle spinning frame; he can save a potentially unlimited number of production recipes in his computer so that he can recall them and save time during lot changes; he can easily identify mistakes in the recipes before the start of their production as YarNet highlights in red the fields where non-workable parameters have been inserted, it creates graphs that showcase the features of the inserted slub yarn and provides a preview of the related black table. All these features allow the customer to reduce the design lead time of slub yarns, the time required to insert new recipes and to easily spot defects in the yarn design. In other words, YarNet substantially contributes to the achievement of higher standards of efficiency, productivity and flexibility that are key competitive drivers in modern spinning mills and whose importance will grow in the near future.

NO MISTAKES IN PRODUCTION RECIPESLOWER SPINNING FRAME DOWNTIMESGREATER COMFORT FOR THE CUSTOMERREDUCED LEAD-TIME FOR SLUB EDITING

Marzoli Machines Textile srlVia Sant’Alberto, 10 25036 Palazzolo sull’Oglio (BS)ItalyTel. +39 030 73091Fax +39 030 [email protected]

666D

ENI0

915E

02/

17

www.marzoli.comA Camozzi Group Company

MIX

CO

MU

NIC

AZ

ION

E -

MI

Marzoli International, Inc. 100 Corporate Dr., Suite MSpartanburg, SC 29303U.S.A.Tel. +1 864 599 7100Fax +1 864 599 [email protected]

Marzoli premises

Sales & service network

Sales affiliates

Legend

MARZOLI MACHINES TEXTILE SRLItaly

MARZOLI INTERNATIONAL, INC.USA

MTMMShed No 6, Bangalore Main RoadSIDCO Industrial Estate HosurTaluk Krishnagiri District,635126, Tamil NaduIndiaTel. +91 4344 400111

MTMMIndia

Fancy Yarn Technology for superior flexibility - Marzoli€¦ · 3 2HIG MA RKETP M ONLC ILL...

Documents

Transcript of Fancy Yarn Technology for superior flexibility - Marzoli€¦ · 3 2HIG MA RKETP M ONLC ILL...