rowing up a third-generation Nevadan on my family’s ranch in northwest Nevada, I never knew that a place like Gold Butte even existed in my home state. I was fortunate enough to discover the area -- in southern Nevada outside of Mesquite -- over the last few years through my work with NWP. I have escorted volunteers and supporters to the area to explore and camp.

My first visit to Gold Butte was in the dark of night. We arrived late after driving nine hours from Reno, and I pitched my tent as quickly as I could as a desert storm descended on the area. The next morning is one I won’t forget. I awoke at dawn, poked my head out of the tent and smelled the

scent of recent rain on the dry Mojave landscape. I looked out to see the

undulating lines and wonderful colors of the rock formations at Whitney Pockets, colors I knew from

my childhood Crayola box of crayons:

m e l o n , sa lmon,

goldenrod, carnation pink

and burnt sienna. I was immediately struck

by the pure beauty of the area – mysterious pocketed

rock outcroppings, Joshua trees that are larger

than life even though they grow just one-half

inch a year, mesquite trees, an abundance of

wildflowers and the petroglyphs – ah, the array of ancient carvings by

the people who had walked the same area thousands of years before me. It

is such a splendid feeling to be walking around and discover Gold Butte’s carvings

like children discovering eggs at Easter.

My initial love and respect for the region of Gold Butte has only grown as I have visited the region with others. It is a joy to see the area through the lens of new visitors who I bring out there. I’ve heard their sharp intake of breath as they view the plants and petroglyphs for the first time, or find a particular bird or lizard on the rocks. Growing up in Nevada, I understand how it takes time for people to appreciate the beauty of the state; it does not take folks long to fall in love with Gold Butte.

The Nevada Wilderness Project staff knows how important it is to introduce spectacular parts of the state to people, what we call “faces to places.” By experiencing the region, others can also understand why the area is worthy of protection. Future generations of Nevadans deserve to make the same wonderful discoveries at Gold Butte as we have. Mackenzie Banta is NWP’s Development Director.

Please help us speak up for Gold Butte by calling or writing to Nevada’s Congressional Delegation and

telling them that you want to see Gold Butte protected. Another powerful voice for protection is writing a letter to the editor of your local newspaper describing your wish to protect this magnificent area.Learn more on our website: www.wildnevada.org

Gold Butte at Dawn by Mackenzie Banta

Congressman John Porter2470 St. Rose Pkwy, Ste 204,Henderson, NV 89074 (702)387-4941

Congresswoman Berkley2340 Paseo del Prado, Ste D-106,Las Vegas, NV 89102 (702)220-9823

Congressman Heller600 Las Vegas Blvd, Ste 680,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)255-1651

Senator Reid333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8016,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-5020

Senator Ensign333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8203,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-6605

• $35 • $50 • $100 • $250 • $500 • Other:

Name

Address

City

State

Zip

E-mail

Phone

Please make checks payable to: Nevada Wilderness Project

Send your contribution and information to:Nevada Wilderness Project8550 White Fir StreetReno, NV 89523

Or you may donate securely online at www.wildnevada.orgThank you.

I would like to make a contribution of (please check one):

Fall 2008 NewsletterPlease Join Us

Contact Us

Reno Office: Las Vegas Office: 8550 White Fir Street 4220 S. Maryland Pkwy., Ste. 213-AReno, NV 89523 Las Vegas, NV 89119 Tel: 775.746.7850 Tel: 702.369.1871

NEVADA WILDERNESS PROJECT www.wildnevada.org

The 2009 Wild Men of Wild Nevada calendar is here!12 months, 12 wilderness areas, 12 wild men.Need we say more? You can buy the calendar for $20 on our website at www.wildnevada.org.Proceeds benefit NWP.

old Butte is an incredible landscape of biological and geological wonder. Located due south of Mesquite in northeastern Clark County, the area represents one of southern Nevada’s most threatened habitats. Fire, the spread of invasive weeds, cultural vandalism and irresponsible off-road vehicle use have conspired in the last decade to severely deteriorate this special landscape.

Members of the Nevada Wilderness Project and our coalition partners will remember that we proposed roughly 350,000 acres for wilderness protection in the 2002 Clark County public lands bill. That bill became law in October 2002, with a mere 28,000 acres designated as wilderness. While the total area protected was a disappointment to conservationists and archaeology buffs, there emerged a sense—within the BLM, Park Service and among citizens throughout Nevada—that Gold Butte would require more protection in the not too distant future.

The “not too distant future” is here. St. George and Mesquite have boomed, and the unfettered growth of Las Vegas has driven more recreationists into Gold Butte than ever before. This is inevitable, and even good. The more people who see the area and understand what’s happening, the better.

But Gold Butte does not have the management direction and funding mechanisms that accompany a National Conservation Area (NCA) with wilderness, and the BLM is simply overwhelmed by on-the-ground conditions. They daily fight a losing battle with the off-roaders and archaeo-looters who pillage the landscape in the absence of strong management and law enforcement.

This year, conditions have worsened so dramatically that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition (NWP, Campaign for America’s Wilderness, The Wilderness Society, Friends of Nevada Wilderness, Sierra Club and Red Rock Audubon Society) has teamed up with Mesquite-based stewardship group Friends of Gold Butte to propose a National Conservation Area with wilderness. We have submitted a proposal to the Congressional delegation, and we have hopes that we can still see protection pass in Congress this year.

In recent months Gold Butte has been prominently featured in local and national news as we’ve ratcheted up efforts to protect the area. Opposition to these efforts is limited to local communities who believe there is too much federal interference and that protection can happen without a National Conservation Area and wilderness. We believe that the financial resources to manage Gold Butte are essential to providing interpretive signage, educational materials and a law enforcement presence that can stop the destruction.

We are encouraged by what we learned from a poll of Clark County residents that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition and Friends of Gold Butte commissioned last May. The results confirmed what you already know--Gold Butte is a top priority for protection among Clark County residents. Some key findings include: • 66% of Clark County residents favor protectingadditional lands as wilderness. •89%agreethat“giventhecurrent rateofpopulationgrowth and development in southern Nevada it is important that we do everything we can to protect our natural, cultural and archeological resources.” • 65% agree that“irresponsible off-road vehicle use is a major problem in southern Nevada and is damaging important natural resources and important wildlife habitat.”

The rest of this newsletter is devoted to the splendors of Gold Butte—its history, hiking opportunities and ecological wonders. Read on and enjoy. And please take time to visit our website at www.wildnevada.org. You can read more about the Gold Butte proposal submitted to Nevada’s Congressional delegation, browse through the recent media coverage of Gold Butte and find contact information for members of Congress. Contact them and tell them that Gold Butte deserves protection. The time is now. John Wallin is NWP’s Director.

Gold Butte: In the NewsBecause the Time is NOW

by John Wallin

G

G

The Nevada Wilderness

Project is committed

to saving spectacular,

rugged and imperiled

public lands in Nevada as

permanent wilderness,

the strongest protection

possible.

Explore Gold Butte on Your Own Two Feet

magine surviving off the land of the harsh Mojave Desert – 75, 150 or even 2,000 years ago. A visit to Gold Butte can take you back to these eras and leave you with an unforgettable appreciation of how human beings have interacted with this astounding landscape. A diversity of artifacts, sandstone etchings and abandoned home sites are scattered across the Gold Butte landscape, intermixed with remnants left by pioneers as well as modern people.

The Gold Butte complex is considered a Traditional Lifeway by the Moapa Band of Paiutes and recognized by the Bureau of Land Management for its special cultural resources. Archaeologists speculate that Gold Butte contains some 2,000 cultural sites. Cross-country hikes, like those described in the article on the next page over, easily lead to such sites.

For example, while hiking you’ll come across rock shelters used long ago, yet they look just recently abandoned. Surrounding these habitation sites, you may see a garbage pile known as a midden. Middens are filled with chips from stone tool making, ash from fires, pottery and bone. Close by, you may find a large ring of white rock surrounding an indentation in the earth. These are roasting pits, or agave ovens, used to cook the base of the carbohydrate-rich agave plant and other staple foods. Smooth grinding stones, a metate, and a hand tool, the mano, may also be found if the site has been left undisturbed by earlier visitors.

Many historic sites are found on top of prehistoric sites. Whitney Pockets--an area of beautiful sandstone formations--is the most popular picnicking and camping spot in Gold Butte. Within the sandstone formations sits a dam built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the depression era. The dam formed a “pocket” to contain water for cattle and a water line runs to a nearby stone trough. There are also storage areas built into the sandstone alcoves. However, if you look closely, you’ll also see much earlier rock shelters, petroglyphs, middens and roasting pits left by the Native Americans who lived there long before European settlement.

n Gold Butte, an area comprised of approximately 500,000 acres in extreme southeastern Nevada, at least 17 species of lizards can be found living in the region’s varied landscape. One of the most fascinating lizards there—or anywhere in the world—is the Gila monster.

The Gila monster (Heloderma suspectum) is the largest lizard in the U.S., weighing up to four pounds and reaching 22 inches in length. It is one of only two venomous lizards in the world, and its bite can prove fatal to humans. The other, a close relative called the beaded lizard, is found in Mexico. In Nevada, Gila monsters are found only in the extreme southern part of the state, and Gold Butte is an area with exceptional habitat where this animal prospers.

This lizard is visually stunning and quite unusual. Surprisingly, their reddish-orange blotchy pattern on a black background makes them well camouflaged against the gorgeous red rock outcroppings scattered throughout the Gold Butte region. In fact, you might walk right by one among the red sands and rocks of the area, especially if it remains stationary.

If you were looking for a Gila monster in Gold Butte, you would want to concentrate your search during the spring or when the summer monsoon rains arrive. In the hottest months, they tend to be active at night, which makes them much harder to see. Gila monsters take advantage of spring and monsoonal showers that leave them with plenty of available water. Spring is also when these lizards mate and do the majority of their feeding for the year. As carnivores, Gila monsters are adept at finding bird and rodent nests, and they feed on eggs, newly hatched birds or newborn rodents. They have been known to feed on newborn cottontails, reportedly eating four of them in one sitting. Because these food resources in the Gold Butte region come during a brief pulse in the year, Gila monsters have evolved to thrive by exerting the majority of their efforts toward survival during this time.

Another interesting adaptation of this lizard is its ability to survive long periods with no food, and it does this by storing surplus fat in its tail. During the colder winter months when feeding opportunities are scarce, the Gila monster will draw on this fat storage to provide energy for survival. A healthy Gila monster is one with a pudgy tail, and the volume of its tail is a good measure of the animal’s overall condition.

In Gold Butte, you might expect to find a Gila monster in any of the beautifully colored rock areas, although they also wander extensively within about a 100-acre “home range.” After rains, they may be found in drainages or near tenajas–water holes found in rock outcrops and canyons throughout Gold Butte–where they will sit for minutes at a time drinking as much as 15 percent of their body weight

Falling Man Site ~ Easy Hike

Brace yourself for awe. When people say, “Gold Butte is rich in cultural resources,” the Falling Man site makes this sentence a drastic understatement. Paths lead you up and over sandstone formations that seem to be from another world. Trails are scattered throughout the area but there is no one right route. Let curios-ity be your guide and you’ll discover Native American rock art, or petroglyphs, around every corner. Follow “Leave No Trace” rules and do not touch the petro-glyphs; oils from your hands will damage the art that has existed for thousands of years. (Another option for an easy hike is to explore the historic mining town site of Gold Butte.)

Paradise Valley ~ Moderate Hike

Simply put, Paradise Valley lives up to its name. While hiking in the dry wash, you’ll see vibrantly colored limestone and sandstone formations, spring wildflow-ers and -- since this is paradise -- a vivid blue ski with hawks soaring overhead. The beautiful wildflowers are today’s silver lining to the 2005 Tramp Wildfire that burned part of the valley. Much of the ground is cov-ered by a living crust known as cryptobiotic soil, and it is important to stay in the dry washes, ridges and existing trails to keep this sensitive crust intact. You can leave another vehicle or bike at one end of the trail to make this a seven-mile, one-way hike. Or for a longer day, make a loop out of it by climbing up and back on Tramp Ridge. (Another moderate hike option is Lime Canyon.)

Virgin Peak ~ Hard Hike

Gold Butte’s most viewed and impressive forma-tions are the Virgin Mountains. You can summit Virgin Peak at 8,000 feet by hiking five miles one way on the southeast ridge. You’ll gain 3,500 feet, enter the re-freshing mountain environment and, while huffing for oxygen on the way up, see a change in vegetation. At the peak, enjoy the panoramic view of the surround-ing landscapes. And if you’re game for an adventure, look for a secret aspen grove on the northeast side of the mountain. (For another summit option, check out Billy Goat Peak.)

Gold Butte is named for a mining town established in the early 1900s.Itwasonceabustlingtentcityof1,000people,completewith mail delivery three times a week. Sure enough, the area went bust, and Gold Butte was reduced to housing the legends of a few colorful characters such as Bill Garrett, Art Coleman and “Crazy Eddie” Bounsall. Left behind at the old town site are the platforms of a few tents, old mining equipment and colorful local stories. The opportunity to step back in the past—into many pasts—is an incredible gift. Gold Butte belongs to all Americans, and every visitor must take responsibility for ensuring it is left intact for coming generations. Always follow Leave No Trace practices; for more information on desert etiquette, visit www.friendsofgoldbutte.org. Nancy Hall is NWP’s Gold Butte Organizer.

Join Friends of Gold Butte for a presentation of the area’s mining history, with local historian John Lear.

The presentation is Tue., Oct. 21, 7 pm, (6-7 pm social hour) at the Falcon Ridge Realty Showcase, Mesquite; with a follow-up field trip to Gold Butte on Oct. 25. For more information, contact Nancy Hall at friendsofgoldbutte@gmail.org, or 702-346-3723.

in a single sitting. They are known for their unusual posturing while drinking; they will lap water for a few moments then lift their head and shoulders quite high in an upward pointing position for another moment before returning to a prone position for drinking.

The Gila monster is listed as “Near Threatened” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. This status is due to likely significant decline for the species because of habitat loss throughout much of its range. The population and building boom in the desert southwest has had huge negative impacts on the Gila monster, to the point that conservation efforts are underway to help successfully relocate animals that are considered nuisance wildlife in urban areas, such as Phoenix, AZ.

The strange and incredible Gila monster is one of the many unique and wonderful animals and plants to be found in the Gold Butte region. Unfortunately, the Gila monster’s existence is under threat from a lack of public lands oversight in the Gold Butte area, along with all the other plants, wildlife, historical, and cultural resources that make this place so special. Gold Butte desperately needs, and deserves, stronger conservation protection than it currently has so things like Gila monsters will be there for people to enjoy in perpetuity. Conservation of Gold Butte will bring conservation to the Gila monster. John Tull is NWP’s Conservation Director

Human History in Gold Butte by Nancy Hall by John Tull by Nick DobricGila Monsters: Giants of Gold Butte

Over the summer, CBS Channel 8’s news show Las Vegas Now reported on the problem of ancient sites—like those at Gold Butte--being destroyed by vandals. The story mentioned destruction of petroglyphs by people defacing the rock walls and damage caused by people on off-road ve-hicles who either intentionally or accidently drive over burial sites. The story also provided information for people wanting to help by becoming site stewards for important sites. To volunteer, contact the Nevada Histori-cal Preservation Office at 702-895-4862. You can watch the news story on our blog: http://weethump.wordpress.com/

The best way to fully experience the marvels of Gold Butte is on foot. The area’s quiet valleys, rich cultural resources and high peaks all offer outstanding wilderness experiences. Below is a sampling of hiking in Gold Butte – descriptions of three hikes we hope will inspire you to get out there and see for yourself why Gold Butte is worth protecting. The area has no facilities for visitors, so come prepared. The weather is similar to that of Mesquite or Las Vegas, but can vary depending on elevation.

For more information and detailed directions, contact Nick Dobric, NWP’s Southern Nevada Outreach Director, at 702-369-1871 or nick.dobric@wildnevada.org. Check the calendar on our website, www.wildnevada.org to learn about opportunities to go on free guided hikes, or read about past trips at our blog, www.weethump.wordpress.com

I I

rowing up a third-generation Nevadan on my family’s ranch in northwest Nevada, I never knew that a place like Gold Butte even existed in my home state. I was fortunate enough to discover the area -- in southern Nevada outside of Mesquite -- over the last few years through my work with NWP. I have escorted volunteers and supporters to the area to explore and camp.

My first visit to Gold Butte was in the dark of night. We arrived late after driving nine hours from Reno, and I pitched my tent as quickly as I could as a desert storm descended on the area. The next morning is one I won’t forget. I awoke at dawn, poked my head out of the tent and smelled the

scent of recent rain on the dry Mojave landscape. I looked out to see the

undulating lines and wonderful colors of the rock formations at Whitney Pockets, colors I knew from

my childhood Crayola box of crayons:

m e l o n , sa lmon,

goldenrod, carnation pink

and burnt sienna. I was immediately struck

by the pure beauty of the area – mysterious pocketed

rock outcroppings, Joshua trees that are larger

than life even though they grow just one-half

inch a year, mesquite trees, an abundance of

wildflowers and the petroglyphs – ah, the array of ancient carvings by

the people who had walked the same area thousands of years before me. It

is such a splendid feeling to be walking around and discover Gold Butte’s carvings

like children discovering eggs at Easter.

My initial love and respect for the region of Gold Butte has only grown as I have visited the region with others. It is a joy to see the area through the lens of new visitors who I bring out there. I’ve heard their sharp intake of breath as they view the plants and petroglyphs for the first time, or find a particular bird or lizard on the rocks. Growing up in Nevada, I understand how it takes time for people to appreciate the beauty of the state; it does not take folks long to fall in love with Gold Butte.

The Nevada Wilderness Project staff knows how important it is to introduce spectacular parts of the state to people, what we call “faces to places.” By experiencing the region, others can also understand why the area is worthy of protection. Future generations of Nevadans deserve to make the same wonderful discoveries at Gold Butte as we have. Mackenzie Banta is NWP’s Development Director.

Please help us speak up for Gold Butte by calling or writing to Nevada’s Congressional Delegation and

telling them that you want to see Gold Butte protected. Another powerful voice for protection is writing a letter to the editor of your local newspaper describing your wish to protect this magnificent area.Learn more on our website: www.wildnevada.org

Gold Butte at Dawn by Mackenzie Banta

Congressman John Porter2470 St. Rose Pkwy, Ste 204,Henderson, NV 89074 (702)387-4941

Congresswoman Berkley2340 Paseo del Prado, Ste D-106,Las Vegas, NV 89102 (702)220-9823

Congressman Heller600 Las Vegas Blvd, Ste 680,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)255-1651

Senator Reid333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8016,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-5020

Senator Ensign333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8203,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-6605

• $35 • $50 • $100 • $250 • $500 • Other:

Name

Address

City

State

Zip

E-mail

Phone

Please make checks payable to: Nevada Wilderness Project

Send your contribution and information to:Nevada Wilderness Project8550 White Fir StreetReno, NV 89523

Or you may donate securely online at www.wildnevada.orgThank you.

I would like to make a contribution of (please check one):

Fall 2008 NewsletterPlease Join Us

Contact Us

Reno Office: Las Vegas Office: 8550 White Fir Street 4220 S. Maryland Pkwy., Ste. 213-AReno, NV 89523 Las Vegas, NV 89119 Tel: 775.746.7850 Tel: 702.369.1871

NEVADA WILDERNESS PROJECT www.wildnevada.org

The 2009 Wild Men of Wild Nevada calendar is here!12 months, 12 wilderness areas, 12 wild men.Need we say more? You can buy the calendar for $20 on our website at www.wildnevada.org.Proceeds benefit NWP.

old Butte is an incredible landscape of biological and geological wonder. Located due south of Mesquite in northeastern Clark County, the area represents one of southern Nevada’s most threatened habitats. Fire, the spread of invasive weeds, cultural vandalism and irresponsible off-road vehicle use have conspired in the last decade to severely deteriorate this special landscape.

Members of the Nevada Wilderness Project and our coalition partners will remember that we proposed roughly 350,000 acres for wilderness protection in the 2002 Clark County public lands bill. That bill became law in October 2002, with a mere 28,000 acres designated as wilderness. While the total area protected was a disappointment to conservationists and archaeology buffs, there emerged a sense—within the BLM, Park Service and among citizens throughout Nevada—that Gold Butte would require more protection in the not too distant future.

The “not too distant future” is here. St. George and Mesquite have boomed, and the unfettered growth of Las Vegas has driven more recreationists into Gold Butte than ever before. This is inevitable, and even good. The more people who see the area and understand what’s happening, the better.

But Gold Butte does not have the management direction and funding mechanisms that accompany a National Conservation Area (NCA) with wilderness, and the BLM is simply overwhelmed by on-the-ground conditions. They daily fight a losing battle with the off-roaders and archaeo-looters who pillage the landscape in the absence of strong management and law enforcement.

This year, conditions have worsened so dramatically that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition (NWP, Campaign for America’s Wilderness, The Wilderness Society, Friends of Nevada Wilderness, Sierra Club and Red Rock Audubon Society) has teamed up with Mesquite-based stewardship group Friends of Gold Butte to propose a National Conservation Area with wilderness. We have submitted a proposal to the Congressional delegation, and we have hopes that we can still see protection pass in Congress this year.

In recent months Gold Butte has been prominently featured in local and national news as we’ve ratcheted up efforts to protect the area. Opposition to these efforts is limited to local communities who believe there is too much federal interference and that protection can happen without a National Conservation Area and wilderness. We believe that the financial resources to manage Gold Butte are essential to providing interpretive signage, educational materials and a law enforcement presence that can stop the destruction.

We are encouraged by what we learned from a poll of Clark County residents that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition and Friends of Gold Butte commissioned last May. The results confirmed what you already know--Gold Butte is a top priority for protection among Clark County residents. Some key findings include: • 66% of Clark County residents favor protectingadditional lands as wilderness. •89%agreethat“giventhecurrent rateofpopulationgrowth and development in southern Nevada it is important that we do everything we can to protect our natural, cultural and archeological resources.” • 65% agree that“irresponsible off-road vehicle use is a major problem in southern Nevada and is damaging important natural resources and important wildlife habitat.”

The rest of this newsletter is devoted to the splendors of Gold Butte—its history, hiking opportunities and ecological wonders. Read on and enjoy. And please take time to visit our website at www.wildnevada.org. You can read more about the Gold Butte proposal submitted to Nevada’s Congressional delegation, browse through the recent media coverage of Gold Butte and find contact information for members of Congress. Contact them and tell them that Gold Butte deserves protection. The time is now. John Wallin is NWP’s Director.

Gold Butte: In the NewsBecause the Time is NOW

by John Wallin

G

G

The Nevada Wilderness

Project is committed

to saving spectacular,

rugged and imperiled

public lands in Nevada as

permanent wilderness,

the strongest protection

possible.

Explore Gold Butte on Your Own Two Feet

magine surviving off the land of the harsh Mojave Desert – 75, 150 or even 2,000 years ago. A visit to Gold Butte can take you back to these eras and leave you with an unforgettable appreciation of how human beings have interacted with this astounding landscape. A diversity of artifacts, sandstone etchings and abandoned home sites are scattered across the Gold Butte landscape, intermixed with remnants left by pioneers as well as modern people.

The Gold Butte complex is considered a Traditional Lifeway by the Moapa Band of Paiutes and recognized by the Bureau of Land Management for its special cultural resources. Archaeologists speculate that Gold Butte contains some 2,000 cultural sites. Cross-country hikes, like those described in the article on the next page over, easily lead to such sites.

For example, while hiking you’ll come across rock shelters used long ago, yet they look just recently abandoned. Surrounding these habitation sites, you may see a garbage pile known as a midden. Middens are filled with chips from stone tool making, ash from fires, pottery and bone. Close by, you may find a large ring of white rock surrounding an indentation in the earth. These are roasting pits, or agave ovens, used to cook the base of the carbohydrate-rich agave plant and other staple foods. Smooth grinding stones, a metate, and a hand tool, the mano, may also be found if the site has been left undisturbed by earlier visitors.

Many historic sites are found on top of prehistoric sites. Whitney Pockets--an area of beautiful sandstone formations--is the most popular picnicking and camping spot in Gold Butte. Within the sandstone formations sits a dam built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the depression era. The dam formed a “pocket” to contain water for cattle and a water line runs to a nearby stone trough. There are also storage areas built into the sandstone alcoves. However, if you look closely, you’ll also see much earlier rock shelters, petroglyphs, middens and roasting pits left by the Native Americans who lived there long before European settlement.

n Gold Butte, an area comprised of approximately 500,000 acres in extreme southeastern Nevada, at least 17 species of lizards can be found living in the region’s varied landscape. One of the most fascinating lizards there—or anywhere in the world—is the Gila monster.

The Gila monster (Heloderma suspectum) is the largest lizard in the U.S., weighing up to four pounds and reaching 22 inches in length. It is one of only two venomous lizards in the world, and its bite can prove fatal to humans. The other, a close relative called the beaded lizard, is found in Mexico. In Nevada, Gila monsters are found only in the extreme southern part of the state, and Gold Butte is an area with exceptional habitat where this animal prospers.

This lizard is visually stunning and quite unusual. Surprisingly, their reddish-orange blotchy pattern on a black background makes them well camouflaged against the gorgeous red rock outcroppings scattered throughout the Gold Butte region. In fact, you might walk right by one among the red sands and rocks of the area, especially if it remains stationary.

If you were looking for a Gila monster in Gold Butte, you would want to concentrate your search during the spring or when the summer monsoon rains arrive. In the hottest months, they tend to be active at night, which makes them much harder to see. Gila monsters take advantage of spring and monsoonal showers that leave them with plenty of available water. Spring is also when these lizards mate and do the majority of their feeding for the year. As carnivores, Gila monsters are adept at finding bird and rodent nests, and they feed on eggs, newly hatched birds or newborn rodents. They have been known to feed on newborn cottontails, reportedly eating four of them in one sitting. Because these food resources in the Gold Butte region come during a brief pulse in the year, Gila monsters have evolved to thrive by exerting the majority of their efforts toward survival during this time.

Another interesting adaptation of this lizard is its ability to survive long periods with no food, and it does this by storing surplus fat in its tail. During the colder winter months when feeding opportunities are scarce, the Gila monster will draw on this fat storage to provide energy for survival. A healthy Gila monster is one with a pudgy tail, and the volume of its tail is a good measure of the animal’s overall condition.

In Gold Butte, you might expect to find a Gila monster in any of the beautifully colored rock areas, although they also wander extensively within about a 100-acre “home range.” After rains, they may be found in drainages or near tenajas–water holes found in rock outcrops and canyons throughout Gold Butte–where they will sit for minutes at a time drinking as much as 15 percent of their body weight

Falling Man Site ~ Easy Hike

Brace yourself for awe. When people say, “Gold Butte is rich in cultural resources,” the Falling Man site makes this sentence a drastic understatement. Paths lead you up and over sandstone formations that seem to be from another world. Trails are scattered throughout the area but there is no one right route. Let curios-ity be your guide and you’ll discover Native American rock art, or petroglyphs, around every corner. Follow “Leave No Trace” rules and do not touch the petro-glyphs; oils from your hands will damage the art that has existed for thousands of years. (Another option for an easy hike is to explore the historic mining town site of Gold Butte.)

Paradise Valley ~ Moderate Hike

Simply put, Paradise Valley lives up to its name. While hiking in the dry wash, you’ll see vibrantly colored limestone and sandstone formations, spring wildflow-ers and -- since this is paradise -- a vivid blue ski with hawks soaring overhead. The beautiful wildflowers are today’s silver lining to the 2005 Tramp Wildfire that burned part of the valley. Much of the ground is cov-ered by a living crust known as cryptobiotic soil, and it is important to stay in the dry washes, ridges and existing trails to keep this sensitive crust intact. You can leave another vehicle or bike at one end of the trail to make this a seven-mile, one-way hike. Or for a longer day, make a loop out of it by climbing up and back on Tramp Ridge. (Another moderate hike option is Lime Canyon.)

Virgin Peak ~ Hard Hike

Gold Butte’s most viewed and impressive forma-tions are the Virgin Mountains. You can summit Virgin Peak at 8,000 feet by hiking five miles one way on the southeast ridge. You’ll gain 3,500 feet, enter the re-freshing mountain environment and, while huffing for oxygen on the way up, see a change in vegetation. At the peak, enjoy the panoramic view of the surround-ing landscapes. And if you’re game for an adventure, look for a secret aspen grove on the northeast side of the mountain. (For another summit option, check out Billy Goat Peak.)

Gold Butte is named for a mining town established in the early 1900s.Itwasonceabustlingtentcityof1,000people,completewith mail delivery three times a week. Sure enough, the area went bust, and Gold Butte was reduced to housing the legends of a few colorful characters such as Bill Garrett, Art Coleman and “Crazy Eddie” Bounsall. Left behind at the old town site are the platforms of a few tents, old mining equipment and colorful local stories. The opportunity to step back in the past—into many pasts—is an incredible gift. Gold Butte belongs to all Americans, and every visitor must take responsibility for ensuring it is left intact for coming generations. Always follow Leave No Trace practices; for more information on desert etiquette, visit www.friendsofgoldbutte.org. Nancy Hall is NWP’s Gold Butte Organizer.

Join Friends of Gold Butte for a presentation of the area’s mining history, with local historian John Lear.

The presentation is Tue., Oct. 21, 7 pm, (6-7 pm social hour) at the Falcon Ridge Realty Showcase, Mesquite; with a follow-up field trip to Gold Butte on Oct. 25. For more information, contact Nancy Hall at friendsofgoldbutte@gmail.org, or 702-346-3723.

in a single sitting. They are known for their unusual posturing while drinking; they will lap water for a few moments then lift their head and shoulders quite high in an upward pointing position for another moment before returning to a prone position for drinking.

The Gila monster is listed as “Near Threatened” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. This status is due to likely significant decline for the species because of habitat loss throughout much of its range. The population and building boom in the desert southwest has had huge negative impacts on the Gila monster, to the point that conservation efforts are underway to help successfully relocate animals that are considered nuisance wildlife in urban areas, such as Phoenix, AZ.

The strange and incredible Gila monster is one of the many unique and wonderful animals and plants to be found in the Gold Butte region. Unfortunately, the Gila monster’s existence is under threat from a lack of public lands oversight in the Gold Butte area, along with all the other plants, wildlife, historical, and cultural resources that make this place so special. Gold Butte desperately needs, and deserves, stronger conservation protection than it currently has so things like Gila monsters will be there for people to enjoy in perpetuity. Conservation of Gold Butte will bring conservation to the Gila monster. John Tull is NWP’s Conservation Director

Human History in Gold Butte by Nancy Hall by John Tull by Nick DobricGila Monsters: Giants of Gold Butte

Over the summer, CBS Channel 8’s news show Las Vegas Now reported on the problem of ancient sites—like those at Gold Butte--being destroyed by vandals. The story mentioned destruction of petroglyphs by people defacing the rock walls and damage caused by people on off-road ve-hicles who either intentionally or accidently drive over burial sites. The story also provided information for people wanting to help by becoming site stewards for important sites. To volunteer, contact the Nevada Histori-cal Preservation Office at 702-895-4862. You can watch the news story on our blog: http://weethump.wordpress.com/

The best way to fully experience the marvels of Gold Butte is on foot. The area’s quiet valleys, rich cultural resources and high peaks all offer outstanding wilderness experiences. Below is a sampling of hiking in Gold Butte – descriptions of three hikes we hope will inspire you to get out there and see for yourself why Gold Butte is worth protecting. The area has no facilities for visitors, so come prepared. The weather is similar to that of Mesquite or Las Vegas, but can vary depending on elevation.

For more information and detailed directions, contact Nick Dobric, NWP’s Southern Nevada Outreach Director, at 702-369-1871 or nick.dobric@wildnevada.org. Check the calendar on our website, www.wildnevada.org to learn about opportunities to go on free guided hikes, or read about past trips at our blog, www.weethump.wordpress.com

I I

Explore Gold Butte on Your Own Two Feet

magine surviving off the land of the harsh Mojave Desert – 75, 150 or even 2,000 years ago. A visit to Gold Butte can take you back to these eras and leave you with an unforgettable appreciation of how human beings have interacted with this astounding landscape. A diversity of artifacts, sandstone etchings and abandoned home sites are scattered across the Gold Butte landscape, intermixed with remnants left by pioneers as well as modern people.

The Gold Butte complex is considered a Traditional Lifeway by the Moapa Band of Paiutes and recognized by the Bureau of Land Management for its special cultural resources. Archaeologists speculate that Gold Butte contains some 2,000 cultural sites. Cross-country hikes, like those described in the article on the next page over, easily lead to such sites.

For example, while hiking you’ll come across rock shelters used long ago, yet they look just recently abandoned. Surrounding these habitation sites, you may see a garbage pile known as a midden. Middens are filled with chips from stone tool making, ash from fires, pottery and bone. Close by, you may find a large ring of white rock surrounding an indentation in the earth. These are roasting pits, or agave ovens, used to cook the base of the carbohydrate-rich agave plant and other staple foods. Smooth grinding stones, a metate, and a hand tool, the mano, may also be found if the site has been left undisturbed by earlier visitors.

Many historic sites are found on top of prehistoric sites. Whitney Pockets--an area of beautiful sandstone formations--is the most popular picnicking and camping spot in Gold Butte. Within the sandstone formations sits a dam built by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the depression era. The dam formed a “pocket” to contain water for cattle and a water line runs to a nearby stone trough. There are also storage areas built into the sandstone alcoves. However, if you look closely, you’ll also see much earlier rock shelters, petroglyphs, middens and roasting pits left by the Native Americans who lived there long before European settlement.

n Gold Butte, an area comprised of approximately 500,000 acres in extreme southeastern Nevada, at least 17 species of lizards can be found living in the region’s varied landscape. One of the most fascinating lizards there—or anywhere in the world—is the Gila monster.

The Gila monster (Heloderma suspectum) is the largest lizard in the U.S., weighing up to four pounds and reaching 22 inches in length. It is one of only two venomous lizards in the world, and its bite can prove fatal to humans. The other, a close relative called the beaded lizard, is found in Mexico. In Nevada, Gila monsters are found only in the extreme southern part of the state, and Gold Butte is an area with exceptional habitat where this animal prospers.

This lizard is visually stunning and quite unusual. Surprisingly, their reddish-orange blotchy pattern on a black background makes them well camouflaged against the gorgeous red rock outcroppings scattered throughout the Gold Butte region. In fact, you might walk right by one among the red sands and rocks of the area, especially if it remains stationary.

If you were looking for a Gila monster in Gold Butte, you would want to concentrate your search during the spring or when the summer monsoon rains arrive. In the hottest months, they tend to be active at night, which makes them much harder to see. Gila monsters take advantage of spring and monsoonal showers that leave them with plenty of available water. Spring is also when these lizards mate and do the majority of their feeding for the year. As carnivores, Gila monsters are adept at finding bird and rodent nests, and they feed on eggs, newly hatched birds or newborn rodents. They have been known to feed on newborn cottontails, reportedly eating four of them in one sitting. Because these food resources in the Gold Butte region come during a brief pulse in the year, Gila monsters have evolved to thrive by exerting the majority of their efforts toward survival during this time.

Another interesting adaptation of this lizard is its ability to survive long periods with no food, and it does this by storing surplus fat in its tail. During the colder winter months when feeding opportunities are scarce, the Gila monster will draw on this fat storage to provide energy for survival. A healthy Gila monster is one with a pudgy tail, and the volume of its tail is a good measure of the animal’s overall condition.

In Gold Butte, you might expect to find a Gila monster in any of the beautifully colored rock areas, although they also wander extensively within about a 100-acre “home range.” After rains, they may be found in drainages or near tenajas–water holes found in rock outcrops and canyons throughout Gold Butte–where they will sit for minutes at a time drinking as much as 15 percent of their body weight

Falling Man Site ~ Easy Hike

Brace yourself for awe. When people say, “Gold Butte is rich in cultural resources,” the Falling Man site makes this sentence a drastic understatement. Paths lead you up and over sandstone formations that seem to be from another world. Trails are scattered throughout the area but there is no one right route. Let curios-ity be your guide and you’ll discover Native American rock art, or petroglyphs, around every corner. Follow “Leave No Trace” rules and do not touch the petro-glyphs; oils from your hands will damage the art that has existed for thousands of years. (Another option for an easy hike is to explore the historic mining town site of Gold Butte.)

Paradise Valley ~ Moderate Hike

Simply put, Paradise Valley lives up to its name. While hiking in the dry wash, you’ll see vibrantly colored limestone and sandstone formations, spring wildflow-ers and -- since this is paradise -- a vivid blue ski with hawks soaring overhead. The beautiful wildflowers are today’s silver lining to the 2005 Tramp Wildfire that burned part of the valley. Much of the ground is cov-ered by a living crust known as cryptobiotic soil, and it is important to stay in the dry washes, ridges and existing trails to keep this sensitive crust intact. You can leave another vehicle or bike at one end of the trail to make this a seven-mile, one-way hike. Or for a longer day, make a loop out of it by climbing up and back on Tramp Ridge. (Another moderate hike option is Lime Canyon.)

Virgin Peak ~ Hard Hike

Gold Butte’s most viewed and impressive forma-tions are the Virgin Mountains. You can summit Virgin Peak at 8,000 feet by hiking five miles one way on the southeast ridge. You’ll gain 3,500 feet, enter the re-freshing mountain environment and, while huffing for oxygen on the way up, see a change in vegetation. At the peak, enjoy the panoramic view of the surround-ing landscapes. And if you’re game for an adventure, look for a secret aspen grove on the northeast side of the mountain. (For another summit option, check out Billy Goat Peak.)

Gold Butte is named for a mining town established in the early 1900s.Itwasonceabustlingtentcityof1,000people,completewith mail delivery three times a week. Sure enough, the area went bust, and Gold Butte was reduced to housing the legends of a few colorful characters such as Bill Garrett, Art Coleman and “Crazy Eddie” Bounsall. Left behind at the old town site are the platforms of a few tents, old mining equipment and colorful local stories. The opportunity to step back in the past—into many pasts—is an incredible gift. Gold Butte belongs to all Americans, and every visitor must take responsibility for ensuring it is left intact for coming generations. Always follow Leave No Trace practices; for more information on desert etiquette, visit www.friendsofgoldbutte.org. Nancy Hall is NWP’s Gold Butte Organizer.

Join Friends of Gold Butte for a presentation of the area’s mining history, with local historian John Lear.

The presentation is Tue., Oct. 21, 7 pm, (6-7 pm social hour) at the Falcon Ridge Realty Showcase, Mesquite; with a follow-up field trip to Gold Butte on Oct. 25. For more information, contact Nancy Hall at friendsofgoldbutte@gmail.org, or 702-346-3723.

in a single sitting. They are known for their unusual posturing while drinking; they will lap water for a few moments then lift their head and shoulders quite high in an upward pointing position for another moment before returning to a prone position for drinking.

The Gila monster is listed as “Near Threatened” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. This status is due to likely significant decline for the species because of habitat loss throughout much of its range. The population and building boom in the desert southwest has had huge negative impacts on the Gila monster, to the point that conservation efforts are underway to help successfully relocate animals that are considered nuisance wildlife in urban areas, such as Phoenix, AZ.

The strange and incredible Gila monster is one of the many unique and wonderful animals and plants to be found in the Gold Butte region. Unfortunately, the Gila monster’s existence is under threat from a lack of public lands oversight in the Gold Butte area, along with all the other plants, wildlife, historical, and cultural resources that make this place so special. Gold Butte desperately needs, and deserves, stronger conservation protection than it currently has so things like Gila monsters will be there for people to enjoy in perpetuity. Conservation of Gold Butte will bring conservation to the Gila monster. John Tull is NWP’s Conservation Director

Human History in Gold Butte by Nancy Hall by John Tull by Nick DobricGila Monsters: Giants of Gold Butte

Over the summer, CBS Channel 8’s news show Las Vegas Now reported on the problem of ancient sites—like those at Gold Butte--being destroyed by vandals. The story mentioned destruction of petroglyphs by people defacing the rock walls and damage caused by people on off-road ve-hicles who either intentionally or accidently drive over burial sites. The story also provided information for people wanting to help by becoming site stewards for important sites. To volunteer, contact the Nevada Histori-cal Preservation Office at 702-895-4862. You can watch the news story on our blog: http://weethump.wordpress.com/

The best way to fully experience the marvels of Gold Butte is on foot. The area’s quiet valleys, rich cultural resources and high peaks all offer outstanding wilderness experiences. Below is a sampling of hiking in Gold Butte – descriptions of three hikes we hope will inspire you to get out there and see for yourself why Gold Butte is worth protecting. The area has no facilities for visitors, so come prepared. The weather is similar to that of Mesquite or Las Vegas, but can vary depending on elevation.

For more information and detailed directions, contact Nick Dobric, NWP’s Southern Nevada Outreach Director, at 702-369-1871 or nick.dobric@wildnevada.org. Check the calendar on our website, www.wildnevada.org to learn about opportunities to go on free guided hikes, or read about past trips at our blog, www.weethump.wordpress.com

I I

rowing up a third-generation Nevadan on my family’s ranch in northwest Nevada, I never knew that a place like Gold Butte even existed in my home state. I was fortunate enough to discover the area -- in southern Nevada outside of Mesquite -- over the last few years through my work with NWP. I have escorted volunteers and supporters to the area to explore and camp.

My first visit to Gold Butte was in the dark of night. We arrived late after driving nine hours from Reno, and I pitched my tent as quickly as I could as a desert storm descended on the area. The next morning is one I won’t forget. I awoke at dawn, poked my head out of the tent and smelled the

scent of recent rain on the dry Mojave landscape. I looked out to see the

undulating lines and wonderful colors of the rock formations at Whitney Pockets, colors I knew from

my childhood Crayola box of crayons:

m e l o n , sa lmon,

goldenrod, carnation pink

and burnt sienna. I was immediately struck

by the pure beauty of the area – mysterious pocketed

rock outcroppings, Joshua trees that are larger

than life even though they grow just one-half

inch a year, mesquite trees, an abundance of

wildflowers and the petroglyphs – ah, the array of ancient carvings by

the people who had walked the same area thousands of years before me. It

is such a splendid feeling to be walking around and discover Gold Butte’s carvings

like children discovering eggs at Easter.

My initial love and respect for the region of Gold Butte has only grown as I have visited the region with others. It is a joy to see the area through the lens of new visitors who I bring out there. I’ve heard their sharp intake of breath as they view the plants and petroglyphs for the first time, or find a particular bird or lizard on the rocks. Growing up in Nevada, I understand how it takes time for people to appreciate the beauty of the state; it does not take folks long to fall in love with Gold Butte.

The Nevada Wilderness Project staff knows how important it is to introduce spectacular parts of the state to people, what we call “faces to places.” By experiencing the region, others can also understand why the area is worthy of protection. Future generations of Nevadans deserve to make the same wonderful discoveries at Gold Butte as we have. Mackenzie Banta is NWP’s Development Director.

Please help us speak up for Gold Butte by calling or writing to Nevada’s Congressional Delegation and

telling them that you want to see Gold Butte protected. Another powerful voice for protection is writing a letter to the editor of your local newspaper describing your wish to protect this magnificent area.Learn more on our website: www.wildnevada.org

Gold Butte at Dawn by Mackenzie Banta

Congressman John Porter2470 St. Rose Pkwy, Ste 204,Henderson, NV 89074 (702)387-4941

Congresswoman Berkley2340 Paseo del Prado, Ste D-106,Las Vegas, NV 89102 (702)220-9823

Congressman Heller600 Las Vegas Blvd, Ste 680,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)255-1651

Senator Reid333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8016,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-5020

Senator Ensign333 Las Vegas Blvd South, Ste 8203,Las Vegas, NV 89101 (702)388-6605

• $35 • $50 • $100 • $250 • $500 • Other:

Name

Address

City

State

Zip

E-mail

Phone

Please make checks payable to: Nevada Wilderness Project

Send your contribution and information to:Nevada Wilderness Project8550 White Fir StreetReno, NV 89523

Or you may donate securely online at www.wildnevada.orgThank you.

I would like to make a contribution of (please check one):

Fall 2008 NewsletterPlease Join Us

Contact Us

Reno Office: Las Vegas Office: 8550 White Fir Street 4220 S. Maryland Pkwy., Ste. 213-AReno, NV 89523 Las Vegas, NV 89119 Tel: 775.746.7850 Tel: 702.369.1871

NEVADA WILDERNESS PROJECT www.wildnevada.org

The 2009 Wild Men of Wild Nevada calendar is here!12 months, 12 wilderness areas, 12 wild men.Need we say more? You can buy the calendar for $20 on our website at www.wildnevada.org.Proceeds benefit NWP.

old Butte is an incredible landscape of biological and geological wonder. Located due south of Mesquite in northeastern Clark County, the area represents one of southern Nevada’s most threatened habitats. Fire, the spread of invasive weeds, cultural vandalism and irresponsible off-road vehicle use have conspired in the last decade to severely deteriorate this special landscape.

Members of the Nevada Wilderness Project and our coalition partners will remember that we proposed roughly 350,000 acres for wilderness protection in the 2002 Clark County public lands bill. That bill became law in October 2002, with a mere 28,000 acres designated as wilderness. While the total area protected was a disappointment to conservationists and archaeology buffs, there emerged a sense—within the BLM, Park Service and among citizens throughout Nevada—that Gold Butte would require more protection in the not too distant future.

The “not too distant future” is here. St. George and Mesquite have boomed, and the unfettered growth of Las Vegas has driven more recreationists into Gold Butte than ever before. This is inevitable, and even good. The more people who see the area and understand what’s happening, the better.

But Gold Butte does not have the management direction and funding mechanisms that accompany a National Conservation Area (NCA) with wilderness, and the BLM is simply overwhelmed by on-the-ground conditions. They daily fight a losing battle with the off-roaders and archaeo-looters who pillage the landscape in the absence of strong management and law enforcement.

This year, conditions have worsened so dramatically that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition (NWP, Campaign for America’s Wilderness, The Wilderness Society, Friends of Nevada Wilderness, Sierra Club and Red Rock Audubon Society) has teamed up with Mesquite-based stewardship group Friends of Gold Butte to propose a National Conservation Area with wilderness. We have submitted a proposal to the Congressional delegation, and we have hopes that we can still see protection pass in Congress this year.

In recent months Gold Butte has been prominently featured in local and national news as we’ve ratcheted up efforts to protect the area. Opposition to these efforts is limited to local communities who believe there is too much federal interference and that protection can happen without a National Conservation Area and wilderness. We believe that the financial resources to manage Gold Butte are essential to providing interpretive signage, educational materials and a law enforcement presence that can stop the destruction.

We are encouraged by what we learned from a poll of Clark County residents that the Nevada Wilderness Coalition and Friends of Gold Butte commissioned last May. The results confirmed what you already know--Gold Butte is a top priority for protection among Clark County residents. Some key findings include: • 66% of Clark County residents favor protectingadditional lands as wilderness. •89%agreethat“giventhecurrent rateofpopulationgrowth and development in southern Nevada it is important that we do everything we can to protect our natural, cultural and archeological resources.” • 65% agree that“irresponsible off-road vehicle use is a major problem in southern Nevada and is damaging important natural resources and important wildlife habitat.”

The rest of this newsletter is devoted to the splendors of Gold Butte—its history, hiking opportunities and ecological wonders. Read on and enjoy. And please take time to visit our website at www.wildnevada.org. You can read more about the Gold Butte proposal submitted to Nevada’s Congressional delegation, browse through the recent media coverage of Gold Butte and find contact information for members of Congress. Contact them and tell them that Gold Butte deserves protection. The time is now. John Wallin is NWP’s Director.

Gold Butte: In the NewsBecause the Time is NOW

by John Wallin

G

G

The Nevada Wilderness

Project is committed

to saving spectacular,

rugged and imperiled

public lands in Nevada as

permanent wilderness,

the strongest protection

possible.