Preparation & Evaluation of

Face PowderSubject: Certificate Program in Cosmetics Technology

A Presentation by : Pallavi Kataria & Deep ShahGuide : Miss Payal Shah

Introduction

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Defining the Core: ‘Powder’

▪ A powder is a dry, bulk solid composed of a large number of very fine particles that may flow freely when shaken or tilted.

▪ Examples include : Flour, ground coffee, powdered milk, cosmetic powders, gunpowder, powdered sugar, volcanic ash, and pharmaceuticals..

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A Pharmaceutical View

▪ Pharmaceutical Industries are focused on following

area when it comes to Powder Formulation.

• Nasal powders

• Powder for injection

• Oral powder

• Extemporaneous powders applied to the skin.

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Introduction to the topic: ‘Face Powder’

▪ Face powder is an indispensable article of a lady’s cosmetic range.

▪ A face powder is basically a cosmetic product which has as its prime function the ability to complement skin color by imparting a velvet finish to it.

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Feminine Possession

▪ A survey on FMCG Industries in India has reflected Talcum Powder as most popular cosmetic product in India worth 3.5 billion INR.

▪ The market is yet growing at 10-12% per annum.

▪ Awareness is very high at 80% with penetration of 45.4% in Urban area and 25.2% in Rural area.

▪ Ponds dominates talcum market with 70% shares followed by Johnson & Johnson, which has 15% market share.

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A Survey shows that…

Male

Female

%Used by

Category

Percentage

Male 11

Female 89

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Ideal Properties

▪ Should produce a smooth finish to the facial skin

▪ Masking small visible imperfection of the face & shine due to moisture

or grease from perspiration or secretion of sebaceous and sweat glands.

▪ Must produce a lasting effect , so that frequent application is

unnecessary.

▪ Should make face pleasant to look and touch.

▪ Must adhere to skin

▪ Degree of opacity can vary from opaque (clown make-up) to almost

transparent.

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Ideal Characteristics (when applied)

▪ Covering Power

▪ Slip

▪ Adhesiveness

▪ Absorbency

▪ Bloom

▪ Coloring

▪ Perfuming

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Ideal Functions

▪ There are different reasons for including face powders in one’s makeup routine.

▪ The type and brand of powder will depend on the desired cosmetic effect.

▪ Some face powders are formulated to address different conditions.

o Shine control

o UV light protection

o Improve skin tone

o Cover up imperfections

o Improve skin condition

Types of ‘Face Powder’

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Depends on Nature of Skin

Type of Skin Type of Powder

Characteristics

Dry Light • Slight Covering Power• Contain large Quantity of Talc

Normal or Moderately Oily

Medium • Comparatively higher covering power• Lesser talc and balanced by zinc oxide

Very Oily Heavy

• High Covering Power• Lower quantity of talc and High quantity

of zinc oxide.

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Depends on Texture

▪ Loose ▪ Powder particles are finer and tend to set makeup better

than pressed powder. Finely milled texture means the powder is easier to layer.

▪ Loose powder is applied with a brush or a puff. This makes it less portable and more difficult to apply on the go.

▪ Pressed▪ Pressed powder comes in cake form, providing better and

longer-lasting coverage.

▪ Pressed powder is applied with a dense puff or makeup sponge, simplifying application whenever needed.

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Depends on Texture

▪ Translucent ▪ Translucent powder is unpigmented, sheer powder used mainly to

control oily zones.

▪ Translucent powder can be pressed or loose powder.

▪ Tinted▪ Tinted powder is pigmented and is usually worn without foundation.

▪ Tinted powder can be pressed or loose powder.

Formulation

Key Ingredients

o The ingredients in face powders vary depending on the desired effect on the skin.

o Here are the most common ingredients used in formulating pressed and loose face powders.

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Ingredient Category Use

Talc Base/Mineral Naturally occurring mineral added in safe amount.

Mica Covering Agent

It helps the powder to stay on the skin longer.

Kaolin Slip/Absorbent

Enhance coverage while reducing the sheen provided by talc.

Magnesium Stearate Adhesive

Improves the consistency of face powders, ensuring a smooth

application

Calcium Carbonate Absorbent Absorbs moisture to minimize

oiliness and create a matte finish.

Inorganic & Organic

PigmentsColorant Added to the formula to create the

desired tint.

Triclosan Perfumes Enhance the intrinsic appeal.

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General Preparation

▪ The preparation of powder is simple as it is simply a matter of dry mixing of finely powdered materials.

▪ Add perfume with a part of absorbent materials like calcium carbonate or with magnesium carbonate and keep it aside for some time.

▪ Mix the color with part of the talc properly and add the other powders and then the perfume mixture.

▪ Mix and sieve the powder mixture using a silk mesh or an old washed nylon cloth.

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Compact Face Powder

▪ Is a dry powder which has been compressed into a cake and is usually applied with a powder puff.

▪ Introduced in 1930 in America.

▪ Very popular because of its ease of application and storage convenience.

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Color Effect

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Shades Available

Methods of Preparation

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World Wide Accepted : ‘3’

▪Wet method▪Dry method▪Damp method

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Dry Method

▪ Materials and binders are compressed by simple pressure in special presses.

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Wet Method

▪ Basic materials , colors and binders are kneaded into a paste with water, pressed into mould and air dried slowly.

▪ Not much used as it can produce cracks.

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Damp Method

▪ Base powder, color and perfume are mixed uniformly.

▪ Mixture is then wetted down with liquid binders like aqueous mucilage and blended until the proper plasticity of the mass is attained.

▪ Powder is then screened and compressed by machine and dried at elevated temp.

▪ Widely accepted and commercially used method.

Manufacturing

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Industrial Manufacturing Process: ‘Face Powder’

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Equipment Used

Jaw Crusher

Grinder

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Equipment Used

Mixer

Mechanical Press

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Pharmaceutical View: ‘Spray Drying’

Evaluation

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Parameters

▪ Determination of Matter insoluble in boiling water

▪ Test for solubility of colors (Reflux with Water + Rectified

spirit)

▪ Determination of fineness (Sieving from 150 micron sieve

with water)

▪ Determination of pH of aqueous Suspension (pH Meter)

▪ Determination of Moisture & Volatile Matter (Air dried in

Porcelain Dish)

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A Study Result. . .

JPRHC : Journal of Pharmaceutical Research & Healthcare

Top Brands

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Exclusives

Mica, Zinc Stearate, Magnesium Myristate, Lauroyl Lysine, Caffeine, Bentonite & Talc.

Talc, Mica, Dimethicone, Sodium Dehydroacetate ,Propylp

araben , Methylparaben, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide.

Talc, Zinc Stearate, Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Boron

Nitride, Dimethicone,Sodium Dehydroacetate, Iron Oxides. 

Octinoxate 4.9%, Dimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, nylon-12, Polyethylene

Talc, Magnesium Carbonate, Aluminum Starch, Coumarin, Limonene, Alcohol, Oxides

Talc, Perfume, Aqua, Rosa centifolia, Benzyl Salicylate, Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben

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References

▪ http://www.cosmetic-ingredients.net

▪ An article by dr.Shahid.S.Chaudhary, National institute of unani medicine, Bangalore

▪ http://www.wikipedia.org

▪ A Survey report by Journal of Pharmaceutical Research & Healthcare

▪ An article on FMCG in India by fmcg-in-india.asp

▪ http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/aba/loose-face-powders.php

▪ Images by Google