Fabrics Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02. Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting.
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Transcript of Fabrics Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02. Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting.
FabricsFabrics
Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02
Fabric Construction: Fabric Construction: Weaving and KnittingWeaving and Knitting
Woven FabricsWoven Fabrics
Interlacing 2 Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at sets of yarns at right angles to right angles to each othereach other
Plain WeavePlain Weave Simplest of all Simplest of all
weavesweaves Most commonMost common Over, under; Over, under;
over, underover, under **broadcloth, **broadcloth,
gingham, poplingingham, poplin muslin, and muslin, and
many othersmany others
Twill WeaveTwill Weave
Diagonal Diagonal weaveweave
**denim, **denim, gabardinegabardine
**firm, heavy **firm, heavy weaveweave
Satin WeaveSatin Weave
Shiny, reflects Shiny, reflects lightlight
Smooth and Smooth and slipperyslippery
Frays a lotFrays a lot **lustrous **lustrous
appearanceappearance
Leno WeaveLeno Weave
Pairs of threads Pairs of threads crossed overcrossed over
Looks “open”Looks “open” Fruit bags, Fruit bags,
mosquito nettingmosquito netting
Pile WeavePile Weave
Raised surfaceRaised surface Loopy or furryLoopy or furry VelvetVelvet CorduroyCorduroy
KnitsKnits
Weft – one yarnWeft – one yarn Warp – several Warp – several
yarnsyarns Purl – looks the Purl – looks the
same on both same on both sidessides
Purl Knit
Warp Knit
Weft Knit
Weft Knit**Weft Knit**
Uses one yarnUses one yarn **Single knit, **Single knit,
ribbed and jerseyribbed and jersey
Double KnitDouble Knit
2 yarns and 2 2 yarns and 2 sets of needlessets of needles
Heavier and Heavier and sturdiersturdier
Doesn’t run or Doesn’t run or ravelravel
Ribbed KnitRibbed Knit
Vertical ribs on Vertical ribs on front and backfront and back
Neck and wrist Neck and wrist bands on bands on sweaterssweaters
Jersey KnitJersey Knit
Most common Most common knitknit
Plain, single knitPlain, single knit T-shirtsT-shirts
Tricot KnitTricot Knit Very fine vertical Very fine vertical
wales on the right wales on the right sideside
Stable knit – lies Stable knit – lies flatflat
Doesn’t run or Doesn’t run or ravelravel
Lingerie, Lingerie, underwearunderwear
Very fast to weaveVery fast to weave
Raschel KnitRaschel Knit
Uses extra Uses extra yarn to create yarn to create a patterna pattern
Non-wovenNon-woven
Leather, lace, Leather, lace, felt, disposable felt, disposable fabricsfabrics
Heat, moistureHeat, moisture Adhesive, Adhesive,
bondingbonding Yarns and layersYarns and layers
Non-wovenNon-woven
Interlocking Interlocking fibersfibers
Don’t fray or Don’t fray or ravelravel
FlexibleFlexible Might tear easilyMight tear easily
FeltingFelting
Hot washing and Hot washing and drying wooldrying wool
ShrinksShrinks Soft and fluffySoft and fluffy
InterfacingInterfacing
Very light to very Very light to very heavy and stiffheavy and stiff
Padding Padding (quilting)(quilting)
Fusible or sew-inFusible or sew-in
Fabric FinishesFabric Finishes
Special treatments applied to improve Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or a fabric’s appearance, texture or performanceperformance
““Gray Goods”Gray Goods”
Before any color Before any color or finish is added or finish is added to the product.to the product.
BleachingBleaching
Used to Used to remove remove impurities in impurities in fabric to ensure fabric to ensure a “true dye.”a “true dye.”
Yarn DyedYarn Dyed
Yarns are dyed Yarns are dyed before weaving or before weaving or knitting.knitting.
Good for plaids, Good for plaids, checks, and checks, and stripes. **stripes. **
Fiber Dyed **Fiber Dyed **
AKA “Stock AKA “Stock Dyeing”Dyeing”
Natural fibers Natural fibers dyed before spun dyed before spun into yarninto yarn
Uniform color Uniform color and good color and good color fastnessfastness
Piece Dyed**Piece Dyed**
Fabric dyed Fabric dyed after weaving after weaving or knittingor knitting
Garment DyedGarment Dyed
Fabric is cut Fabric is cut and sewnand sewn
Entire garment Entire garment or item is dyedor item is dyed
Printing TechniquesPrinting Techniques
Color is Color is transferred transferred to surface of to surface of fabric to fabric to form a form a patternpattern
RollerRoller
Printing pres Printing pres with circular with circular rollersrollers
One for One for each coloreach color
Rotary ScreenRotary Screen
Fast, Fast, inexpensiveinexpensive
3500 yards 3500 yards per hourper hour
Good for large Good for large designs**designs**
Texture and Performance FinishesTexture and Performance Finishes
Improves Improves surface feel of surface feel of fabricfabric
Improve Improve comfort and comfort and wear abilitywear ability
NappingNapping
Raised, Fuzzy Raised, Fuzzy FabricFabric
SizingSizing
Extra body and Extra body and weightweight
Adds StarchAdds Starch
WeightingWeighting
A textured finish applied to make the A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it garment stiffer and heavier looking than it isis
Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really isthan it really is