Fabric Inspection
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Fabric Inspection
Jimmy K.C. Lam
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
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Fabric Inspection
• Why, when and where• Inspection Systems
o Four-Point Systemo Ten-Point System
• Inspection Condition• Sampling• Acceptance Level
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Fabric Inspection (I)When, why, where
• Producer likes to know the quality of his products (says quality for 500,000 yds fabric)
• Buyer wants to assure the product quality he ordered.
• 10% check will give buyer some ideas of his product quality
• 25% check maybe necessary for new supplier
• 3% check maybe enough for a proven record supplier
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Fabric Inspection (II)
• Fabric inspection must be selected randomly
• The fabric sample must be selected from different place, different lot and different time
• Inspector must use a packing list and select different bales on different place
• The samples should be selected from early, middle and late production.
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Inspection Standards
• Ten Point Systemo Oldest and most used in woven finished
fabric• Four point System
o Widely adopted and used in knitted fabric• The Graniteville’78 System
o major and minor types, used in garment pieces
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Ten Point System
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Ten Point System
• The earliest inspection system and is designed to identify defects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defect
• Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors Institute and National Federation of Textiles
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Ten Points System(Woven)
• Warp Defectso 10-36 inches 10 pointso 5-10 inches 5 pointso 1-5 inches 3 pointso up to 1 inch 1 point
• Weft Defectso Full width 10 pointso 5 inches to half width 5 pointso 1-5 inches 3 pointso up to 1 inch 1 point
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Ten Point System
• Standards for examination of finished goods (woven mainly)
• Penalties to be assigned for imperfection of warp and weft defects
• Grading is designed to apply to every imperfection according to size, regardless of type.
• For print cloth, any piece of grey which contains less than 50% more penalty points than yardage may be passed for printed fabric.
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Ten Point System(Note)
• No one yard should be penalized more than 10 points
• Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece makes it “second”
• A combination of both warp and weft defects when occurring in one yarn should not be penalized more than 10 points
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Ten Point SystemGrading
• “First Quality”o A piece is graded as “first” if the total quality points
do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg. 100 yard piece got the penalized of 70.
• “Second Quality”o A piece is graded a “second” if the total
penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece.
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Four Point System
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Four Point System
• It was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers
• It got the biggest support for American Society for Quality Control.
• It was endorsed by federal government for military inspection and American Apparel Manufacturers Association
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Four Point SystemsKnitted Fabric
• Grading of fabric quality according to penalty points
• Penalty points are based on the length of defects measured in inch.
• Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric and is based on fabric width of 64-66 inches (knitted fabric)
• Four penalty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inches in width
• The quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty points per 100 yarn length
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Four Point Systems(others)
• All products sold must be have the following properties:
• Grey Goods:o constructiono blendo widtho weight
• Finished Goods• Buyer must inform seller on any
particular condition of goods
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Calculation
• Points per 100 square yards = o (Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in
inches X yards examined)• e.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got
100 penalty points,fabric width is 72 inches, the points per 100 square yards is : o (100X3600)/(72X100) =50
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The Graniteville ‘78 System
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Graniteville’78 System
• It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading.
• The system divided defects into major and minor types
• The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the goods to second quality
• The minor defect was one may or may not have caused garment to second, depending on its location in the end use item
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78 System Point
• Penalty Point Assignment of Graniteville’78
• Defect Length Penalty Pointso 9” 1o 9”-18” 2o 18”-27” 3o 27”-36” 4
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78 Points- Notes• The principle was established in garment
cutting piece, which the short length defects (less than 9”) will normally be removed.
• The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9”) and put less weight on 1-10” defects such as slubs
• The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance.
• The system tend to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.
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