• Course Name : • Course Code : 1976• Topic Name : Different Type of Faults on Textile

Manufacturing.

Submission By Submission To Md. A.B. SiddiqueMd. Motasim Billa Junior Faculty R-HABHIT

Rajshahi-HABHIT

FABRIC FAULTS

3

WOVEN FABRIC FAULTS

4

1. STARTING MARK WARP YARN HEALD SHAFT

FIG: LEVELLING STATE OF WARP YARN IN LOOM

FIG: SHEDDING STATE OF WARP YARN

REASON: THE MAIN REASON OF STARTING MARK IS THE EXTENSION OF WARP YARN DUE TO THE TENSION THAT CREATS ON IT.

REMEDIES:TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO MOVE THE BACK REST IN THE BACKWARD POSITION.

5

2. LOOSE WARP IN FABRIC

REASONS:a. IF THE TENSION OF WARP

YARN IS LOW IN WARPING, THEN THIS FAULT APPEARS.

b. IF THE BEAM CONTAIN BROKEN WARP YARN.

REMIDIES:c. THE WARP TENSION IN

WARPING SHOULD BE EQUAL AND UNIFORM.

d. WE HAVE TO MOTIVATE THE WORKER TO TAKE CARE OF THE FABRIC.

6

3. DOUBLE END

REASON: a. AFTER SIZING IF THE TWO ENDS OF WARP

STICKS TOGATHER. AND IF THE WORKER DON’T OBSERVE THAT PROPERLY THAN THOSE ENDS CAN GO TOGATHER THROUGH THE SAME HEALD EYE AND CAN CREATE THIS PROBLEM.

REMEDIE: WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CARE FULL

ABOUT THIS MATTERS.

7

BROKEN WARP

REASON:IF A WARP YARN BREAKS AND IF THE DROPPER DON’T FALL ON THE DROPPER BAR , THEN THIS FAULT ARISE.

REMEDIES:1. OPERATOR SHOULD WALK AROUND THE

MACHINE TO OBSERVE THIS SORTS OF PROBLEM.

2. IF THE PROBLEM IS IN THE DROPPER BAR THEN, WE HAVE TO CHANGE THAT BAR.

8

TIGHT END

REASON:IF THE TENSION OF A WARP YARN IS MORE THAN THE OTHER ENDS PRESENT IN THE LOOM THEN THIS PROBLEM ARISE. THIS OVER TENSION PRODUCED ON WARP DURING WARPING AND WEAVING.

REMEDIES:TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO FIND THESE ENDS AND HAVE TO ADJUST THE TENSION.

9

FLOAT OF WARPREASON :IF SOMEONE PULL THE FABRIC TOWARDS THE CLOTH ROLLER INTENTIONALY OR UNTENTIONALY THEN WE CAN HAVE THIS FAULT.

REMEDIES:WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL ABOUT THE BUTTON WHICH CAUSES THE FABRIC TO COME FORWARD.

10

WRONG END COLOUR

REASON:IT HAPPENS DUE TO THE WRONG DRAWING OF COLOUR YARN.

REMEDIES:

1. WORKER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL DURING DOING THE JOB OF DRWING.

2. AFTER FINDING THE FAULTS WE HAVE TO REMOVE THE FAULTY COLOUR YARN AND PLACE A CORRECT COLOUR YARN.

11

BROKEN PICK

REASONS:1. IF THE SPEED OF THE MACHINE IS TOO

HIGH, THEN BEAT FORCE OF THE REED TO WEFT YARN WILL BE TOO HIGH.

2. IF THE PRESSURE OF THE RELAY NOZZLE AND ELCA IS TOO HIGH.

REMEDIES:2. WE HAVE TO REDUCE SPEED OF THE

MACHINE.

2. WE HAVE TO REDUCE THE PREESURE OF RELAY NOZZLE OR ELCA.

12

MISS PICK

REASONS: IF A WORKER START A

STOPPED MACHINE WITHOUT PICKING THE BROKEN WEFT FROM THE SHED THEN THIS TYPE OF FAULT ARISE.

REMEDY: WE HAVE TO MOTIVATE THE

WORKER TO DO JOB PROPERLY DURING TIME OF PICK FINDING.

13

DOUBLE PICK

REASON:IF THE CUTTER DON’T WORK PROPERLY.

REMEDY:THE ANGLE OF THE CUTTER SHOULD BE CHANGED OR IT’S BLADE SHOULD BE CHANGED.

14

SNARL OR LOOSE WEFT

REASON:IT HAPPENS DUE TO THE MALFUNCTIONING OF THE PFT OR DUE TO LOOSENESS OF THE FILLING YARN ORTHE WRONG ALIGNMENT OF PRE-WINDER TO FIXED NOZZLE.

REMEDIES: 1. THE DEGREE OF THE PFT HAVE TO BE

PERFECT.2. THE PRESSURE OF THE MAIN VALVE,

RELAY VALVE AND RELAY NOZZLE SHOULD BE PERFECT.

3. THE ALIGNMENT OF THE PREWINDER SHOULD UNIFORM AND STRAIGHT.

15

WEFT BAR

REASONS:IF COUNT OF YARN VARY FROM CONE TO CONE OR WITHIN THE CONE THEN A BAR OF WEFT WILL APPEARED IN FABRIC AFTER WEAVING.

REMEDY:TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE NEED TO BUY YARN WITH UNIFORM THICKNESS.

16

BALL

REASON:IF THE WARP IS TOO MUCH HAIRY . THEN THE REED WILL CREATE BALL IN WARP YARN IN- BETWEEN HEALD SHAFT AND REED . IF THE BALL IS SMALL ENOUGH TO PASS TROUGH THE DENT OF REED THEN THEY WILL FORM THE BALL IN FABRIC.REMEDY: TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WE HAVE TO CHANGE THE REED, OR REDUCE THE TENSION OF THE WRAP YARN.

17

HOLES

1. IF WE TRY TO CUT THE BALLS OF THE FABRIC WHICH MAKES THE LOOK OF THE FABRIC POOR THEN IT WILL BE CUT ALONG WITH THE WARP. THIS WILL CREATE HOLE IN THE FABRIC. THIS HOLES BECOME BIGGER AFTER THE FINISHING PROCESS. 2. IT CAN BE HAPPEN DUE TO THE CLASH BETWEEN FABRIC AND SHARP EDGE OF MACHINE PARTS.

REMEDIES: 1. IF WE CONTROL THE BALL WE

CAN CONTROL HOLE. 2. WORKER HAVE TO CAREFULL

DURING THE TRANSPORTATION OF FABRIC FROM ONE FLOOR TO ANOTHER TO AVOID SHARP POINT TINGLE WITH FABRIC.

18

OIL SPOT

REASON:OIL SPOT ON THE FABRICS ARE CAUSED BY TOO MUCH OILING ON LOOM PARTS FROM OTHER SOURCES.

REMEDY:THIS STAINS ARE REMOVED SCOURING.

19

TEMPLE MARK

REASON:IF THE PLACEMENT OF RING IN THE TEMPLE BAR IS WRONG OR THE PRESSURE OF TEMPLE TO THE FABRIC IS TOO HIGH.

REMEDY:THE SETTING OF TEMPLE SHOULD BE PERFECT. AND THE BRISTLE SHOULD BE SHARP AND EASY GOING.

20

TEMPLE PIERCED HOLE

REASON:IF THE RING OF THE TEMPLE IS DAMAGED THEN WE WILL HAVE THIS FAULT.

REMEDY:THE BRISTLE OF THE TEMPLE SHOULD BE SHARP AND EASY GOING.

21

CUT, TORN SELVEDGE

REASON:IF THE CUTTER DON’T CUT THE EDGE THE OF THE FABRIC PROPERLY OR IF THE WEAVE IN THE EDGE OF THE FABRIC IS NOT PROPER. THEN WE WILL HAVE THIS FAULT.

REMEDIES:1. WE CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM BY

CHANGING THE BLADE OF THE CUTTER.

2. BY CHANGING THE DEGREE OF THE CUTTER.

3. BY APPLYING SUITABLE WEAVE SYSTEM IN THE EDGE OF THE FABRIC.

22

REED MARK

REASON:IF THE DENT OF THE REED IS DAMAGED THEN WE WILL HAVE THIS KIND OF FAULTS.

REMEDY:THE REED HAVE TO BE CHANGED

23

SLUB

REASON:IF THE YARN CONTAIN UNEXPECTED SLUB IN IT, THEN THOSE SLUB WILL BE APPEARED IN THE FABRIC AS A FAULT.

REMEDY:THE QUALITY CONTROLER HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFULL ABOUT THE ABOUT QUALITY OF THE YARN.

KNOTS

SHUTTLE TRAP

26

HolesA fabric imperfection in which one or several yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening.

27

28

29

30

31

32

Weaving Faults

Bad Piecing

Cork Screw Yarn

Yarn Faults

Unduly thick piecing in yarn caused by over End piecingEFFECT More end breaks in subsequent processIncrease in hard wasteCAUSESWrong method of piecing and over end piecingTwisting the ends instead of knottingRECTIFICATION Tenters to be trained in proper methods of piecingSeparators to be providedExcessive end breaks in spinning to be avoided

It is a double yarn which one yarn is straight and other is coiled over itEFFECT Breaks during windingCauses streaks in the fabricCAUSESFeeding of two ends (instead of one ) in ring frameLashing -in ends in ring frameRECTIFICATION Tenters are to be trained in piecing methods(or) practicesPneumafil ducts to be kept clean and properly set

34

HAIRINESSProtrusion of fibre ends from the main yarn structureEFFECT More end breaks in windingUneven fabric surfaceBeads formation in the fabric in the case of polyester/cotton blendsCAUSESUse of cottons differing widely in the properties in the same mixingUse of worn rings and lighter travellarsMaintaining low relative humidity, closer roller settings and very high spindle speedsRECTIFICATION Use of travellars of correct size and shape and rings in good condition to be ensuredPeriodic replacement of travellars and suitableRoller settings to be maintainedOptimum relative humidity to be maintained in the spinning roomWide variation in the properties of cottons used in the mixing to be avoided

Presence of black specks of broken seeds, leaf bits and trash in yarnEFFECT Damaged fabric appearanceProduction of specks during dyeingNeedle breaks during knittingPoor performance during winding

CAUSESIneffective cleaning in Blow room and cardsUse of cottons with high trash and too many seed coat fragments

RECTIFICATION Cleaning efficiency of blow room and cards to be improvedOptimum humidity in the departments to be ensured

KITTY YARN

35

CRACKERS

FOREIGN MATTERS

Very small snarl-like places in the yarn which disappear when pulled with enough tension or Yarn with spring –likeshapeEFFECT More breaks in windingMore noticable in polyester and cotton blendedyarnsCAUSESMixing of cottons of widely differing staple lengthCloser roller settingsEccentric top and bottom rollersNon optimum temperature and relative humidity in the spiinning shedOver spinning of cottons

RECTIFICATION Optimum top roller pressure to be maintainedMixing of cottons varying widely in fibre length to be avoidedUse of optimum roller settingsUse of properly buffed rollers free from eccentricity to be ensured

Metallic parts, jute flannel and other similar foreign matters spun along with yarnEFFECT Breaks during windingFormation of holes and stains in clothDamaged fabric appearance

CAUSESImproper handling of travellersImproper preparation of mixings

RECTIFICATION Removal of foreign matters(such as jute fibres,colour cloth bits) to be ensured during preparation of mixingInstallation of permanent magnets at properPlaces in blow room lines to be ensured

36

NEPS

OIL STAINED YARN

Yarn containing rolled fibre mass, which can be clearly seen on black board at close distance; measurable on Uster imperfection Indicator.EFFECT Damaged fabric appearanceShade variation in the dyed fabricsAn abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place is called slubsCAUSESAccumalation of fly and fluff on the machine partsPoor carding.Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecingImproperly clothed top roller clearers.RECTIFICATION Machine surfaces to be maintained clean.Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured.Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.

Yarn stained with oilEFFECT Damaged fabric appearanceOccurrence of black spot in fabricCAUSESCareless oil in the moving parts,over head pulleys etcPiecings made with oily or dirty fingersCareless material handlingsRECTIFICATION Appropriate material handling procedures to be followedOilers to trained in proper method of lubricationClean containers to be utilised for material transportation

37

OILY SLUBSlub in the yarn stained with oilEFFECT More end breaks in the ensuring processDamaged fabric appearanceShade variation in dyed fabrics

CAUSESAccumulation of oily fluff on machinery partsPoor methods of lubrication in preparatory processesNegligence in segregating the oily waste from process waste

RECTIFICATION Yarn contact surfaces to be kept cleanOilers to be trained in correct procedures of lubricationProper segregation of oily waste from process waste

An abnormally thick place or lump in yarn showing less twist at that place.

EFFECT More end breaks in the next process.Damaged fabric appearance.Shade variation in dyed fabrics.

CAUSESAccumulation of fly and fluff on the machine parts.Poor carding.Defective ring frame drafting and bad piecingImproperly clothed top roller clearers.

RECTIFICATION Machine surfaces to be maintained clean.Proper functioning of pnemafil/roller clearers to be ensured.Broken teeth gear wheel to be avoided and proper meshing to be ensured.Better fiber individualisation at cards to be achieved.Optimum top roller pressure &back zoneSetting at ring frame to be maintained.

SLUBS

38

SNARL Yarn with kinks(twisted onto itself)due to insuffcient tension after twisting

EFFECT Entanglement with adjacent ends causing a breakDamaged fabric appearanceShade variation in dyed fabricsImproper meshing of gear wheelsMixing of cottons varying widely in fiber lengths and use of immature cottons

CAUSESHigher than normal twist in the yarnPresence of too many long thin places in the yarn

RECTIFICATION Optimum twist to be used for the type of cotton processedDrafting parameters to minimise thin places in the yarn to be adoptedThe yarn to be conditionedCorrect tension weights and slub catcher settings to be employed at winding

39

SPUN IN FLY THICK AND THIN PLACES

40

Garment Faults

41

Prepared By : Motasim BillaID: 127201047(session 2012-2013)Department : Textile Technology Email: motasims152@yahoo.comBlog : www. motasims152.blogspot.com (visit)

Prepared By :

42

Garment defects:

Any abnormality in the Garment that hinders its acceptability by the consumer ,is

called Garment defect. These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these

are caused by the sewing lines.

Garment defects

43

Garment defects can be separated into three categories:

1. Fabric defects:These are defects that are found in the fabric; mostly these are not caused by the sewing lines. E.g. running shade, selvedge-to-selvedge shade, holes, staining mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub , hairiness etc.

2. Workmanship and handling defects: These are defects that are directly caused by production section, this would include both the cutting and sewing section. Buyer’s approved samples must be referred to maintain perfect workmanship.

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

Garment defect categories

44

Remedies:

1. Machine feed mechanism must be better quality

2. Sewing thread must be selected properly

3. Thread tension must be kept in limit

Seam Puckering: refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after

laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance.

Seam Puckering

Causes: This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc.

45

Drop stitch/Skipped stitch: Irregular stitching along the seam.

Remedies:1. Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped.2. Placing of needle properly.3. The tension of thread should be adjusted.4. Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.5. The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.

Drop stitch/Skipped stitch

Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.

46

Wavy/staggered stitching: Stitches are not straight.

Remedies:

1. Needle to be changed

2. Needle size and thread size should be changed

3. Feed mechanism to be changed

Causes: It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces, faulty feed mechanism, needle deflection or wrong needle etc.

Wavy/staggered stitching

47

Open seam or broken seam: Portion of the garment that has not been covered by sewing thread.

Remedies:

1. Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.

2. Proper handling of the parts of garments

Causes: This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments , improper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc.

Open seam or broken seam

48

Broken Stitch: Non-continuous sewing thread.

Remedies:

1. Proper machine usage

2. proper trimming

Broken Stitch

Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or machine usage.

49

Uncut/ loose thread: Extra thread or loose thread on seam line.

Remedies: 1. Garments finishing should be checked properly.

Uncut/ loose thread

Causes: It appears due to improper trimming or finishing.

50

Holes: Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other side.

Remedy:Better inspection of fabric and cut piece. Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not up to standard are not put into line and production is wasted. Replace not standard cut pieces with usable ones before input.

Cause:Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side, either by improper trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric.

Holes

51

Shading Variations within different parts: Seams appear to be lighter or darker than the other seams surrounding it.

Remedies: After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number.

Causes: It arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.

Shading Variations within different parts

52

Seams not aligned at crossing of seams: Seams are not lined up at intersection of seams.

Remedy: When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production must be informed and the operator must re-trained in the proper usage of the machine.

Seams not aligned at crossing of seams

Cause: Defects generally come about either from improper handling of the cut piece.

53

Others: Misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section.

Others

54

Sizing defects: (Difference in measurement of various parts of garments), wrong placement of pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints , measurement discrepancy- all these problems come from pattern section.

Poor ironing: if not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.

misaligned buttons and holes ,unfinished buttonhole, missing buttons, wrong placement of labels, hang tag, wrong folding or poor folding , improper packing into cartons – all these defects come from finishing section.

Others

55

Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels, sewing thread, screen print, embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining, button and any kind of trims.Defects are given below:

1. Unmatched color of thread2. Broken button and zipper tape3. Short zippers 4. Faulty zippers5. Wrong labels6. Improper size of the labels7. Printing mistake of labels and cartons 8. Broken poly bag 9. Wrong hanger10. Improper embroideries and prints. Etc.

Remedy: This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the garments should be checked properly (In line inspection) and the booking of trims &accessories must be given as like as artwork.

Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

56

3. Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:These defects include color, size and placement of trims such as labels,

sewing thread, screen print , embroidery designs, zipper, hangtag, lining , button and any kind of trims.

Defects are also classified (as per extent of defect) into Critical, Major and Minor defects.

1.Critical defects are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects (0%).

2. Major defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain percentage (3%) depending on buyers

requirements3. Minor defects are serious defects that are not allowed over a certain

percentage (5%) depending on buyers requirements

Trims, accessories and embellishment defects:

57

Rajshahi Haji Abul Hossain Institute of Technology