4OntheTrail

EXTREME TREKKING IN THE CAMERON HIGHLANDS AND PULAU TIOMAN

SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKEExploring West Malaysia’s impenetrabile montane rainforests

searching for beautiful, rare and occasionally dangerous faunaHEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

EXTREME TREKKING IN THE CAMERON HIGHLANDS AND PULAU TIOMAN

SECRET REALM OF THE DRAGON SNAKEExploring West Malaysia’s impenetrable montane rainforests

searching for beautiful, rare and occasionally dangerous fauna

5

he four feet long, wrist-thicksnake lies motionless, elegantlydraped on a half-rotten, moss-coveredtree stump, its heavy, muscular bodywreathed in glorious gold, pale greenand velvety black. A large adultWagler’s pit viper, probably apregnant female: a strikingly beautifulspecies whose apparent, deceivinglethargy conceals the capability ofinflicting highly venomous, lightning-fast bites. Drops of water glisten on itsbroadly banded back, every pearlybead a miniature rainbow in the sun’srays which scythe through therainforest canopy, cutting through theall-pervading wisps of mist. Stunned,frozed in admiration, we silently watchits incredibly massive, broadlytriangular head hesitantly uncoil andrise towards us, its small, grey-greenbeady eyes watching us intently, thelong black forked tongue slowlydarting forward, tasting the still,moisture-filled air. Mesmerized, Islowly draw my camera lens evercloser to its dragon-snake face, tryingto find a precarious balance on themuddy, slippery, mossy slope.Squinting through the viewfinder of myNikon I can clearly see its heat-sensingpits, located between its cold eyes andits backward-turned nostrils. I know itcan sense my body warmth throughthese, its primeval mind scanning with

utmost accuracy an infrared image ofmy body parts. The first third of its thickbody compressed in a spring-poweredfigure-S, the diamond-shaped broad,deep head - covered in sharply ridgedscales - is now focusing on my ever-so-slow approach, the forked tongue’sflickering getting testier, faster,broader. I know the signs and I hug mycamera closer, precariously hiding myface and exposed knuckles behind theheavy cardboard shield which ringsthe 105mm macro lens and which Ihave built for exactly this purpose - toprotect my vulnerable fingers from itsheat sensors. As I reach the invisibleborder separating me from the hugepit viper, imperceptibly inching closerand closer to get a sharper portrait, thesnake suddenly lunges forward,heavily, its bright white mouth innerlinings flashing briefly in the forest’sdamp perennial twilight, its longcurved unsheated fangs erected. Evenknowing this was coming - a half-hear ted, sluggish attempt atintimidating the intruder rather than afully-fledged, violent, lighting-fastvenomous defensive bite - my heartskips a beat as I almost lose my footingon the muddy, squishing ground,backing off with a half -gasp ofenthusiastic awe. Contented with itsgenuinely impressive show of powerand grace, the snake coils up slowly

T TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI

continued on page 7 ›

A female Wagler's or Temple PitViper Tropidolaemus wagleri, a tropical arboreal venomouscrotalid, rears up in a threatdisplay on a trail of the Cameron Highlands, West Malaysia.

6

Left top, an adult Red Mountain raceror Bamboo Rat snake Oreocrypthophisporphyracea sub. laticincta, a verycolorful and active terrestrial colubridrestricted to the cool montane rainforestsof Southeast Asia. Left bottom, a TwinSpotted or Himalayan Flying frogRhacophorus bipunctatus, a small speciesfound in the same habitat. Right, a bright red and very tiny mushroomphotographed in the montane rainforestof the Cameron Highlands.

7

again, but its massive, threatening headis now fully alert, constantly turning tofollow our clumsy movements as wesurround it in a surreal, trance-likeballet. The dragon is awake. We knowthere will be no more bluffs from now on.

OF SNAKES, SLOPES AND SCONES

We have been trekking for hours on theslippery, muddy, heavily forested andvery steep slopes of these peaks, the

perennially drenched and surprisinglycool untouched mountains on theCameron Highlands, a popular holidayretreat of Peninsular Malaysia.Relatively close to crowded, highlydeveloped Kuala Lumpur, this is a much-loved weekend destination for those citydwellers wishing to flee the oppressiveheat of the surrounding lowlands, forMalaysians wishing to spend theirholidays in an occasionally ridiculouspseudo-European and theme-park likehill station (replete with fake Tudor

A Twin Spotted orHimalayan Flying frogRhacophorus bipunctatus,a small and rather colorfulspecies often encounteredin the cool, water-soakedmontane rainforests of Southeast Asia.

8

caulk-and-beams little straw-roofedhamlets everywhere) and an all-inclusivetour location where Western tourists areherded by bus to hurriedly swallow tea,scones and strawberry jam amongcarefully tended rose lawns. The absurdabundance of temperate-climate fruitsand vegetables in the CameronHighlands has given rise to aninordinate amount of farms and touristattractions - we cannot forget thewonderfully inventive billboard invitingvisitors to a greenhouse and its “Self-plucking Strawberries”...Now thatwould be interesting! The landscape isstunningly beautiful, with dramatic,ever-changing skies looming overtender green, rolling hills which areterraced with tea cultivations andintersped with deep stretches of thicklyforested slopes and ravines. What mostvisitors do not know - and really do notcare about - is that in fact the CameronHighlands still feature exceptionally

large areas of connected, untouched,unspoilt wilderness, encompassing allhabitats from dry lowland to montanerainforest to mossy elfin (or cloud)forest: a scenic environment which is allbut inaccessible to most - except itsnative inhabitants - and which boasts anabsolutely amazing biodiversity.Intrigued by the little information wecould get from the Internet, we had anunexpected stroke of luck when wecontacted our guide for the trip - young,literate and enthusiastic herpetologistHans Kam, who - despite hissurprisingly Germanic first name - is infact an ethnic Chinese hailing fromKuala Lumpur and a veritable mine oftried-and-tested knowledge regardingthe Camerons and their reptilepopulations. A frequent visitor andindependent explorer of the largelyuntapped wilderness of the area, Hanshas built over time an exceptionallyuseful network of relationships with

continued on page 10 ›

Steep, mist-cloaked and almost impenetrable: the pristine montanerainforest of the Cameron Highlands.

A mysterious world of steep valleys and mist-cloaked forests

9

A juvenile, yellow-phase specimen of the

Oriental WhipsnakeAhaetulla prasina, a mildly-venomous,

rear-fanged colubrid. Its large eyes with their

keyhole-shaped pupilallow frontal, binocular

view to better grasp fast-moving lizard prey in

thickly forested habitats.

10

local collectors and forest dwellers,which allow him to take his clients offthe beaten track in search of the rare,spectacular species which are soabundant and yet so frustratinglyreclusive in this forbidding environment.Hans also authors and maintains theenthusiastically opinionated butnevertheless very informative websitewww.naturemalaysia.com which is anabsolute must for those interested inexploring the area or simply wishing toknow more about it and its fauna.

MISTY MOUNTAINS AND RUGGEDRAINFORESTS

We had been repeatedly alerted inadvance by Hans about theoccasionally steep and very wetconditions prevailing when trekking offthe beaten track in the CameronHighlands, but we were neverthelesssurprised and occasionally impeded bythe extreme ruggedness of the terrain,which is to be visited at night andduring the rainy season for the bestchances of success – not an easyendeavour when carrying 15 kgs ofcamera equipment on one’s back. Aswe all know snakes, lizards and insectsare more plentiful and easier toencounter during the monsoon season,but in the Cameron Highlands thismeans dealing on a daily basis withtruly torrential downpours, lowtemperatures (we measured 12°C at

night with temperatures in their 30sduring the day), faintly marked or non-existent forest trails trasformed intosticky, glutinous traps of ankle-deepmud, the onslaught of leeches and ageneral state of physical misery whichis compounded by the lack of heatingin the local hotels. Add to this the factthat the average night trek may lastfrom four to six hours, taking place on80° slopes with only roots or twigs forhandholds, through thick thornyshrubbery or by wading up stonystreambeds, often having to deal withfallen tree trunks, slippery footholdsand running, ice-cold water up to one’smid-calf and you’ll soon realize - as wedid - that this is neither easy norcomfortable. In fact, much to ourdismay and humiliation, on a fewmemorable occasions we had to giveup our planned itinerary when halfwaythrough and opt for something moremanageable. Footwear and clothesmolding - if not downright rotting -overnight, the occasional messy leechbite and all-too-frequent falls head-over-heels in mud, over buttress roots anddown steep slopes or forest floorravines were - however embarassing -a small price to be gladly paid for theamazing encounters we had: thanks toHans’ unique proficieny in the field wewere able to find and photograph anumber of species we had onlydreamed of until then, and which areall but invisible to anyone visiting theforest by himself.

MalaysianDead Leaf mantisDeroplatyslobata, apraying mantisof Southeast Asiawhich isexquisitelycamouflaged tolook like a dead,dry leaf. Surelyone of thenatural world'smost stunningexamples ofcamouflage andmimicry, it is oneof the manyfascinatingspecies found in the CameronHighlands.

continued on page 38 ›

11

Spectacular, prehistoric-looking three-meter tall Giant ferns are a visual, unmistakable landmark of the upper reaches of the Cameron Highlands.

12

The Mountain Horned lizard Acanthosaurus armata - a small, colorful and very spiky agamid - is restricted to the cool, water-soaked montane rainforesthabitats of Southeast Asia.

13

The Cameron Highlands Pit Viper Trimeresurus nebularisis an arboreal, highly venomous crotalid. This recentlydescribed, endemic species is found in very cool mountain rainforest environments and its distribution is exclusively restricted to the Cameron Highlands of West Malaysia.

14

Antonella busies herself shooting a beautiful specimen of theCameron Highlands Pit Viper Trimeresurus nebularis, a recentlydescribed, endemic,arboreal and highly venomous crotalid.These mostly nocturnal snakes can be quite active at surprisingly low ambient temperatures - as low as 12°C.

15

The scenic panoramas of the

Cameron Highlands areoften blessed withdramatic, swirling

cloudscapes - a greatbonus for photographers

and videographers.

Cameron HighlandsCLICK ON THE IMAGE AND WATCH

A SHORT VIDEO ON SOME OF

THE CAMERON HIGHLANDS’MOST SPECTACULAR NATURAL

HIGHLIGHTS

ANIMA MUNDI

ON

16

A Malaysian Jungle Nymph or Green NymphWalking Stick Heteropteryx dilatata, one of the world's largest and heaviest insects. Large specimens such as this may reach a lengthof 20 centimeters and a weight of over 65 grams.

17

Tender green tea plantations against a bright blue sky - a typical panorama of the CameronHighlands of Peninsular Malaysia. Even if such man-made habitats are often rich in interesting reptile, amphibian and insect species, access to most tea plantations - which are privatelyowned - is normally severely restricted.

The finelystructured leaves of Giant ferns - endlesslyrepeating analmost abstractpattern - offerinteresting texturesand details to the naturephotographer.

18

19

Left, the softlyrolling landscapeof tea plantations.Right, a striking adult of theOrientalWhipsnakeAhaetulla prasina,a mildly-venomous,rear-fangedcolubrid, with its chequered skin showingbetween the brightgreen scales in a typically colorfulthreat display.

20

The MalaysianOrchid MantisHymenopus coronatusis a small prayingmantis which mimicsto perfectionPhalaenopsis orchidflowers (picturedabove and commonlyfound in its naturalhabitat) to trick itsinsect prey.

21

At their highestelevations the

Cameron Highlandsoften offer unrivalled

scenic views, withsteep forest-covered

mountainsidesshrouded in

swirling, dramaticclouds.

Dramatic landscapes of swirling clouds cloaking virgin rainforests

22From left to right, a Malaysian Dead Leaf mantis Deroplatys desiccata,

a praying mantis of Southeast Asia which looks exactly like a dead, dry leaf; a Malayan Water monitor Varanus salvator, a large, imposing and very agile semiaquatic monitor lizard extensively found throughout Southeast Asia;and finally a Malaysian Horned frog or Long-nosed frog Megophrys nasuta,perfectly camouflaged among dead leaves and forest litter.

23

Kuhl's Flying gecko Ptychozoon kuhlii, showing

the extensive webbing which enables this species to glide for some

distance if threatened. Its cryptic livery mimics to near-perfection the tree

bark on which this gecko is found.

24

A large, beautifullypatterned adult Wagler’sPit Viper Tropidolaemuswagleri lies in ambush,draped on a small branchby a forest waterfall.

25A pair of displaying males of the Larut Rice Frogs

Microhyla annectans, observed at night at a temperature of 12°C in the Cameron Highlands.Despite the cold, several couples of this exceptionallytiny amphibian were observed actively mating and breeding in a roadside rain puddle.

A Larut Rice Frog sitting onAntonella’s thumb shows theexceedingly tiny size of this species.Microhylids enjoy a circumtropicaldistribution, being the most commongroup of frogs in Madagascar andPapua New Guinea.

26Bell's Anglehead lizard

Gonocephalus belli, a large and very colorful agamid inhabitingthe undisturbed rainforests of Thailand, Malaysia and Borneo.

27A juvenile specimen of the Red Mountain racer or

Bamboo Rat snake Oreocrypthophis porphyracea sub.laticincta clearly shows its distinctive red and orangebanded livery, which will turn uniformly candy-red once it will reach adulthood. This colorful and active colubridspecies is restricted to the cool montane habitats of Southeast Asia.

28

Clockwise from topleft: Siamese Pit viperTrimeresurus wiroti,a colorful and highlyvenomous semi-arborealor terrestrial crotalidfound in lowland andsubmontane rainforestsof Thailand and WestMalaysia. Top right,Green Crested lizardBronchocela cristatella,a common inhabitant ofprimary and secondaryrainforests in SoutheastAsia. Bottom right,Common or Dusky Mockviper Psammodynastespulverulentus, aterrestrial, nocturnal,rear-fanged, mildlyvenomous snake foundthoughout SoutheastAsia. Bottom left,Common Malayan racerElaphe flavolineatus,a large, fast andaggressive terrestrial orsemi-arboreal colubridfound in the lowlandforests of WestMalaysia, Borneo andIndonesia. All photoswere taken in theCameron Highlands.

29

Pied Mossy Frog Theloderma asperum,a small and rarely observed species found in montane rainforests throughout Southeast Asia.When seen from above (above) this slow-moving species mimics with surprising accuracy anunpalatable bird dropping to avoid predation.

30

Left, a Giant Leafinsect Phylliumgiganteum, alarge nocturnalPhasmid ofSoutheast Asiawhich mimics withstunning accuracya set of leaves.This fascinatingspecies is one ofthe natural world'smost strikingexamples ofmimicry andcamouflage. Right,a Twin Spotted orHimalayan Flyingfrog Rhacophorusbipunctatus, asmall speciestypically found inthe cool montanerainforests ofSoutheast Asia.

31

A Malaysian OrchidMantis Hymenopus

coronatus, a small prayingmantis which mimics

with jaw-dropping accuracy the Phalaenopsis orchid

flowers found in its foresthabitat. The Cameron

Highlands offer very goodchances of finding thesegraceful, rarely-spotted

insects in the wild,especially during the rainy season.

32A Malayan Crested lizard Gonocephalus grandis,

an imposing and spectacularly colorful agamid foundin undisturbed rainforest habitats throughout Southeast Asia. This beautiful male allowed a closeapproach when found in a very cold drizzle.

33

Giant Leaf insect Phyllium

giganteum, a largenocturnal Phasmid of Southeast Asia

which looks exactlylike a set of leaves.

Notice howperfectly even

the leaves’veining is reproduced! A large female such as the onepictured can be

over10 cms long.

34

Giant Forest or Green-Eyed geckoGekko smithi,a large andpugnacious geckorestricted to pristine,undisturbed forest habitats of Southeast Asia. Bites from thisbeautiful but shy and uncommon species can be quite painful.

35

Stunning mountain views of pristine, impenetrable cloud forests

The stunning cloud or elfin forest viewfrom the top of Gunung Brinchang, one of the highest elevations of theCameron Highlands. Sadly, habitat

alteration and human encroachment canalready be clearly seen in the distance.

36

Giant Rhino beetle Chalcosomacaucasus, one of the world'slargest beetles and proportionallyone of the world's strongestanimals. Large males such as this one can make truly spectacular camera subjects.

37

Basking in the sun under the ominous clouds of an approaching storm

A beautiful Wagler's or Temple Pit ViperTropidolaemus wagleri, an arboreal

crotalid which is still relatively common inthe Camerons. This massive individual wasfound basking in the sun by a forest road -

with the dark, rain-laden clouds of a stormysky in the background adding a dramatic,

welcome touch to the scene.

38

Pulau TiomanCLICK ON THE IMAGE AND WATCH

A SHORT VIDEO ON SOME OF

PULAU TIOMAN’ MOSTSPECTACULAR NATURAL

HIGHLIGHTS

ANIMA MUNDI

ON

Fully satisfied - and rather humbled - bytwo very energetic weeks spentexploring the verdant but almostimpenetrable Cameron Highlands, wethen drove all the way down to the eastcoast of mainland Malaysia to board aferry to our next destination, thecelebrated Pulau Tioman - an idyllicand steeply mountainous island in theSouth China Sea which boasts animpressive herpetofauna with a veryhigh incidence of endemisms. Almostdeserted during the monsoon by thebudget tourists and backpackers whichcrowd it during the dry season (andwhich represent the main source ofincome for its meagre residentpopulation besides fishing), Tiomanwelcomes visitors landing on its shoreswith its tall, craggy, heavily forestedand rather forbidding profile,reminding one of the movie classicKing Kong’s fabled Skull Island.Sparsely populated along thecoastline (an almost ininterruptedsequence of cheap tourist bungalowsand seafood restaurants rings it alongits sandy beaches, but luckily the

mountainous inside is still heavilyforested, almost impenetrable andtotally undeveloped), the island iscrossed by a single, twisting and verysteep tarmac road. It also offers severalforest walking trails of varying difficulty- ideal hunting grounds for our nightlyexplorations in search of interestingherpetofauna. Besides featuring a highnumber of rare or endemic species(including an incredible and onlyrecently described turquoise blue pitviper, which sadly we did not finddespite all our efforts), the island ispopulated by an ungodly number ofhuge Water and Savannah monitors -these impressive, two-meter longlizards are literally everywhere (butusually not easily approached). Theisland climate of sea-mount Tioman isobviously very different from thatencountered in the higher altitudes ofthe Cameron Highlands, and while theamount of rain we faced during ourpermanence there was equallystaggering, the average temperatureswere much higher, as was the numberof mosquitoes: despite being

Oriental Whipsnake Ahaetullaprasina, a mildly-venomous, rear-fanged colubrid. This juvenilespecimen - still in its yellowphase - was found by anovergrown forest trail in Pulau Tioman.

SHADES OF KONG!

continued on page 41 ›

Crab-eating or Long-tailed macaque Macaca fascicularis are very common on Pulau Tioman, where they are represented by an endemic insular subspecies. When encountered in large troops these monkeys can occasionally be bothersome and aggressive - especially if they are used to being fed by tourists.

39

An idyllic forest river forms a cascade ofquiet pools fringed with palms in Pulau Tioman.

Despite being rather small and mountainous,the island abounds with such enchanting views.

A tropical idyll of forest streams and palm tree landscapes

40

41

occasionally rather steep, the foresttrails are much more easily negotiatedthan the non-existent ones of theCamerons, and our daily and nightlytreks on the island were both verypleasant and fruitful, even if the uniquefeeling of remoteness we hadexperienced in the cooler Highlandswas somewhat missing. Make nomistake, however - seriously exploringthe island can be similarly exhausting,as forests are very thick, slopes areoccasionally steep and slippery,several half - forgotten trai ls areovergrown and in disuse and the highdegree of humidity can prove trulystifling to the unaccustomed.

A TREASURE TROVE OF RARE SPECIES

It should be obvious by now this was ahighly specialized trip, which focusedalmost entirely on reptiles and insects,with a very special emphasis onmacrophotography and rainforestexploration - certainly not everybody’scup of tea, even if the results of suchendeavours can be both stunning andunique. Trips like this require a degree

The Many-linedSun skink Mabuyamultifasciatais another insularendemic subspeciesexclusively found in Pulau Tioman.Skinks and geckoesare exceedinglycommon on theisland’s forest floor.

42

of physical fitness, the willingness toaccept and tolerate the occasionaldifficulty or failure, a tolerance for badweather, perennially damp conditionsand physical discomfort, and last butnot least a strong motivation. For us ithas been a spectacular experienceand we greatly enjoyed every minuteof it - we got what we were looking for,and even more than we expected,thanks to our guide’s field experience,enthusiasm and total dedication tomake the trip a successful one. Despitethe perennially damp conditions, ourcamera equipment - both our NikonD300s and all our Nikon strobes -performed faultlessly, and our Applelaptop did not miss a beat. The finalcount of “firsts” or simply exceptionalsightings - between the CameronHighlands and Pulau Tioman - hasbeen stunning for us, numbering -among others - spectacular specimens

of the endemic Camerons pit viper,Wirot’s or Siamese pit viper, OrientalWhip snake, Mock viper, Wagler’s orTemple viper, White-bellied Rat snake,Common Malayan racer, RedMountain racer, Dog-faced Watersnake, Banded Coral snake andReticulate python among snakes,Malayan Crested lizard, GreenCrested lizard, Mountain Hornedlizard, Robinson’s Anglehead lizardand Bell’s Anglehead lizard amongagamids, Twin-spotted Flying frog,Malayan Horned frog and Pied Mossyfrog among amphibians plus GiantRhino beetle, Giant Leaf insect, GiantStick (or Forest Nymph) insect and theotherworldly Dead Leaf Mantis andOrchid Mantis to name only a few ofthe insects. We only missed finding aKing Cobra, which is apparentlyplentiful in Tioman - it’s going to be agood excuse to go back soon! .

Top left, KeeledRat snake Ptyascarinatus, a largeand aggressivecolubrid of SEAsia’s lowlandforests. Above,Reticulate pythonPython reticulatus,the world’s longestconstrictor and apowerful predator.Left, Banded Coralsnake Calliophisintestinalis sub.lineata, a deadlyvenomous elapidshowing brightaposematiccoloration. Notethe raised andupturned tip of thetail, showing brightorange ventrals in a typical threatdisplay.

43

A small brook runs among scattered

boulders in the lowlandand sub-montane

dipterocarp and palmrainforest: a typical snake

habitat in Pulau Tioman.

Boulder-strewn brooks quietly murmuring in the forest’s perennial twilight

44A beautiful Reticulate python Python reticulatus lies elegantly

draped on a treefork in the hot, stifling rainforest of Pulau Tioman. This powerful constrictor of Southeast Asia’s forests is still relatively common and may occasionally prove dangerous to humans given

the large size - up to a length of 8 meters - it can attain.Its spectacularly-marked livery provides surprisingly efficient

camouflage in the sun-dappled forest environment.

45

A Dog-faced Water snake Cerberusrynchops hunts for frogs, tadpoles and fish,lying half-submerged in a fast-running,clear mountain stream in Pulau Tioman.

46

A portrait inreptilian elegance,a Malayan Watermonitor Varanussalvator basks on a granite boulderby a forest streamin Pulau Tioman.Notice its deeply-forked tongue tiptesting the air in thepresence of anintruder - despitetheir size thesemonitors are verywary and very fast,and are not easilyapproached.

A graceful portrait of supreme reptilian elegance

47

COUNTRY OF DESTINATION: MALAYSIAROUTE: Your flight will land at KLIA (Kuala LumpurInternational Airport), one of the world’s most beautifuland modern airports. From there it’s a day-long tortuouscar drive to the Cameron Highlands, where you’llprobably stay in Brinchang or Tanah Rata. If you wantto visit Tioman first, you’ll have to drive instead all theway down to the peninsular eastern coast to theharbour town of Mersing, spend the night there andcatch the ferry to the island the following morning. It’sa long and very tiring drive - we recommend going tothe Camerons first.

MEANS OF TRANSPORT: Visitors can rent a car inKuala Lumpur and drive themselves around but we donot recommend this at all - save yourself the trouble andhave the trip organized by a local guide who isthoroughly conversant with the routes and the bestwildlife viewing spots. Once in the Highlands there will

be some daily driving to get from your hotel to thejungle trails starting points, and then lots of hardwalking in steep, slippery, inhospitable terrain. InTioman it is walking and nothing else - to the point ofexhaustion if doing things seriously.

CURRENCY: It’s advisable to change one’s owncurrency in the local one (Ringgit Malaysia or RM)upon arrival in KL to save loss of valuable timelooking for local bank branches later on.

ACCOMODATION: Pick your choice from beautiful,top-class hotels to very cheap little hostels for locals.We suggest to stay in upper or middle-levelaccomodation as coming back from a physicallydemanding jungle trek one is often exhausted, coldand soaking wet, so a reasonable degree of comfortis very appreciated. Keep in mind that hotels in the

Camerons - despite the prevailing cool and wet climate- do not offer room heating. In Tioman the same applies- one can choose from the luxurious Tioman BerjayaResort to a zillion cheap and rather dingy beachfronthuts. We choose the former – the dampness and theheat were enough without having to deal with themosquitoes and the rats, plus we want our expensivecamera equipment to be safe when we are not there.

FOOD: Absolutely wonderful - there’s an enormous,mouth-watering variety to choose from asMalaysians love eating out. We recommend beingadventurous and trying a few of the roadside ethnicChinese eateries which abound in Brinchang - theycertainly look intimidating and not too clean (don’tlook at the kitchen!), but we always had spectacularfood and were never sick. Being helped by your tourguide is a must here - language problems and

At-a-glance travel guide

USEFUL TIPS FOR YOUR EXPEDITIONSOME SIMPLE, COMMON SENSE, FIELD-TESTED ADVICE AND INFORMATION TO MAKE THE BEST OUT OF YOUR TRIP AND TO AVOID HASSLES, WORRIES AND PROBLEMS

48

choosing exotic dishes in the small restaurants forlocals can be pretty daunting. Plus you’ll pay a lotmore if you’re on your own.

LANGUAGE: Malay and English everywhere, butoutside of the big towns - when dealing with countryfolk or the aboriginal Orang Asli - problems mightoccur if you don’t speak Chinese or a local dialect.Having an experienced bilingual local guide with youis strongly advised, especially when venturing beyondthe normal tourist circuit - as you’ll be doing.

WORRIES: Mosquitoes and other rainforest pests cancarry diseases or provoke severe allergic reactions, soit’s always better to use repellants. Leeches areomnipresent, messy and in the thousands, but luckilyharmless. Forest hiking can be seriously dangerous, sowatch your feet as it’s all too easy to sprain an ankle orworse. Any small wounds or scratches suffered in theforest must immediately be disinfected and kept understrict observation to avoid serious consequences. Withluck, one will be dealing with potentially lethal venomous

snakes, so a degree of caution is highly recommendedat all times. These are pristine, untouched highlandrainforests where very dangerous animals are still found- so never, repeat never, go hiking on your own.

HEALTH: There’s always the possibility of catchingmalaria or dengue or something else but equallyunpleasant, and one has to be fatalistic with such thingswhen going to the forest in the tropics. Food isreasonably safe if just cooked and sizzling hot -particularly in Chinese restaurants - but avoid drinkingtap water and fresh uncooked vegetables. The lack ofheating in the hotels of the Camerons can beuncomfortable (the five-star ones have fireplaces), andpeople unused to damp conditions can certainly catcha bad cold there. Tioman is very hot and humid andmosquitoes are prevalent on the island during the wetseason, especially inside the forest.

CLIMATE: Strictly tropical - both montane (as in theCamerons, very warm during the day but with coldnights) and lowland (as in Tioman, which is very warm

24 hours a day). During the wet season - which is thebest time to find reptiles and insects - torrentialdownpours can be expected on a daily basis, oftenlasting several hours and causing dangerous floods.

BESIDES: Besides fascinating wildlife and stunningnatural landscapes, the area - as most of Malaysia ingeneral - has very little to offer regarding art or culture.Towns of the Cameron Highlands - such as Brinchangor Tanah Rata - are little more than artificial tourist trapsreplete with hundreds of restaurants, coffee-shops andvarious eateries surrounded by slightly grotesque,embarassing recreations of Tudor England which arehowever much loved by the local tourists. If your interestlies in strawberry farms or vegetable street markets thenyou’ll be having the time of your life, but do not expectto see much or anything at all in the way of art, cultureor even traditional ways of life. Tioman is even worse,as it lives off seasonal tourists and it hibernates the wetseason away when nobody comes. Nothing there, noteven traditional village life or local folklore - in factit’s a rather closed, not too friendly community. .

Stunning landscapes, great wildlife and wonderful food