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Experimental Photography

Ryan Goldsmith

Out of focus imagery

For these images I have purposely ensured that the images have been out of focus to see what kind of effect I got. This was done quite simply by setting the camera up for the correct lighting with the ISO and aperture set correctly, then I changed the camera from auto focus to manual focus. The camera being set to manual focus allows me to have full control of the amount of blur and the severity of the lack of focus. I think that if done correctly this can work well and result in a pleasing effect.

I think that the use of lights in out of focus photography can work extremely well and give you a nice effect. This results in a bokeh effect. This is something used which enables you to obtain a softness to your images which there might not have been previously without the light.

This is my favorite image because of the simplicity of it. There are very few colours in it but I’m still able to get this nice effect from the ones that are there. I feel that this is the most interesting image with regards to the experimental subject (out of focus) as this is an extremely over the top and in your face example of it.

Capturing movementThese three images are all examples of how you can use different techniques to capture movement within a still image. These were achieved by firstly setting the camera to TV and then selecting the shutter speed. I then need to ensure that I have the correct aperture and ISO so that my image is exposed correctly. For the top image once I had everything set up I used a shutter speed of around 2 seconds once I had pressed to capture the image I zoomed in and out with the barrel which created this effect. For the second image I used a slightly longer exposure time of around 3 ½ seconds, I then took the image keeping the camera as still as possible to avoid any camera shake from the hand and to ensure that any objects that were stationary at the time of capture remained so and the objects that were moving were shown. For the third image I used an exposure time of around 2 seconds again but this time when I took the photograph I ensured that I purposefully moved the camera in an extreme manner to ensure that I got movement straight from the camera rather than from subjects within the image, this created an unusual effect and one which is completely different to the rest of the images.

Stationary subject.

Moving subject

I feel that this image is my strongest by far as it shows clearly what I was trying to achieve, it has captured both a still and moving object in the same image. The ghostly effect you get from seeing the steps of someone that is no longer there is such an unusual concept within any other type of photography as the aim is usually to have an image completely still and in focus.

Using reflectionThe reflection task was probably the most simple of the three as far as the camera settings go. You could simply set the camera to auto and start taking images. I chose to set mine up manually and choose the ISO, aperture, shutter speed etc. as I like to have control over the images that I create. The hardest part of the reflection task was trying to find new and interesting ways of using reflections to create imagery, this means that you have to be creative and resourceful with what you have at your disposal, hence the image using the reflective screen of the mobile phone.

Canted angle within the image giving a different feel to it.

The same woman is in the image twice, obvious and apparent use of reflection.

Lots of information in the reflective surface compared to the non-reflected image.

Strong and clear reflected image with good detail within it, i.e. lines, colours etc.

Joiners and photomontagesThese joiners and photomontages are simple and easy to make. You have to ensure that all of your settings on your camera are correct and also that when you take your shots that they are in focus and properly exposed, this could mean taking a few practice shots just to make sure. When you take the images for these you have to get close to the subject taking photos which cover the subject in its entirety going from left to right then working your way down ensuring that you are as close to the same distance away from the subject in every image. Once you have the photos that you need you need to go into Photoshop – file – automate – photomerge. you then deselect the option of it blending the images together and then select the photos you need and Photoshop will put them together for you. It is then up to you to add effects like strokes, drop shadows etc. to get the desired outcome.

I feel that this is the strongest image because of the way that it has been put together, I think that it is more aesthetically pleasing to look at as a joiner/photomontage. I feel that this is slightly less regimented than the other two joiners and allows for a better flow of the image.

These look as though they are three dimensional shapes that have been placed one on top of the other much like Hockney did with his polaroid imagery.