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    REPRINTS AVAILABLE

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    BERG 2010

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    The Design Journal VOLUME 13, ISSUE 3

    PP 291312

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    DOI:10.2

    752/146069210X12766130824894

    Evaluative Criteriaof Denim Jeans: ACross-national Study

    of Functional andAesthetic Aspects

    Osmud RahmanRyerson University, Canada

    Yan JiangZhejiang Sci-Tech University, China

    Wing-sun LiuThe Hong Kong Polytechnic University, China

    ABSTRACT The purpose of this study is to

    explore and investigate the functional and

    aesthetic attributes of denim jeans and the

    perceptions and behaviours generated within

    the youth market. In order to understand the

    varied considerations a consumer makes

    in her purchasing decisions, and within a

    cross-national context, the countries of

    China and Canada were selected for the

    current study. The sample consisted of 247

    Chinese women and 380 Canadian women.

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    +

    The results indicate that Chinese respondents were

    more concerned with the functional characteristics

    of denim jeans, whereas their Canadian counterparts

    focused heavily on their aesthetic appeal. It is also

    evident that social conformity played a significant

    role in the consumption of denim jeans amongthe Chinese, while self-expression/personal

    enhancement was more important to the Canadian

    consumers. The findings of this study provide

    insight and implications for fashion practitioners on

    future product design and development, and further

    research on this topic is recommended.

    KEYWORDS: clothing evaluation, function, aesthetic, cross-national

    study

    Introduction

    Consumers often choose a product based on multipleattributes such as function and aesthetics. The functionalattributes of a product can satisfy consumer need through

    problem solving and prevention, whereas aesthetic attributes cangenerate experiential pleasures through its ownership, interaction,viewing and consumption.

    The functional or practical design of clothing can enhance con-sumer usage and provide multiple benefits to the wearers such asprotection, warmth, comfort and ease of movement. Many con-sumers do not seek benefits of a higher level (that is, aesthetic andexperiential) until their basic or essential level of needs is first met.For example, many consumers will not consider buying a pair oftrousers with a malfunctioning zipper regardless of its style.

    Aesthetic design does not merely offer variants to existing stylesin the marketplace but also novelty, distinctiveness and pleasure

    to the consumer. It carries and conveys meaningful messagesabout the users, serving as a significant non-verbal communicatorof a consumers taste, lifestyle and values. According to a studyconducted by Bruce and Whitehead (1988), 60% of respondentsindicated that design was the most important determinant of newproduct performance.

    Thus, product design (both functional and aesthetic) could playa vital role in a products overall success. It directly affects the con-sumers perceived values and satisfaction of a product. As Chitturiet al(2008) asserted, failing to meet a utilitarian expectation evokesanger, failing to meet a hedonic expectation evokes dissatisfaction.

    Focus and Objectives

    Consumers with diverse cultural values may view or judge a pro-duct from different perspectives. Crozier (1994) suggests that the

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    overall appeal of a product is greatly influenced by socio-cultural,socio-economic, historical and technological factors. For example,Chinese consumers may perceive a pair of Levis 501 jeans asexotic and modern, whereas American consumers may view themas authentic and classic. Therefore, it is important for multinational

    enterprises (MNEs) and global design teams to understand whatconstitutes a consumers buying motivations within a global/cross-cultural context, in order to maximize successful retail outcomes.

    With this perspective, the Peoples Republic of China (hereafterreferred to as China) and Canada were selected for this studybecause of the significant differences in their social, cultural andeconomical conditions (Hofstede, 1984). In order to understand thesimilarities and differences in consumer perception and behaviour,the following questions were raised to guide and direct the present

    study. What roles do product attributes and design features play onclothing consumption within a cross-cultural context? What typeof design features may evoke cognitive and affective responsesamong the youth from two different nations/cultures? Do Chineseconsumers perceive the same product values as their Canadiancounterparts?

    In light of the preceding questions, denim jeans were chosento examine and address the functional usage, aesthetic form andsymbolic design features of a product. The focus of this study wasplaced on intrinsic product cues rather than the extrinsic cues.

    Therefore, the investigation of the salient effects of price, brandname or country of origin was beyond the scope of this researchand will not be addressed in the present study. The objective of thiscross-national study was to identify and examine the differences andpeculiarities of young consumers perceptions toward denim jeansfrom two different nations China and Canada.

    Relevant Literature

    Functional and Aesthetic Values

    The acceptance of a clothing item is greatly related to variousproduct attributes such as fit, colour, fabric, style and designfeatures. In recent years, a substantial amount of literature has beendevoted to the study of product form and aesthetic appearance fromdifferent perspectives (see Bloch et al, 2003; Eckman and Wagner,1995; Workman and Caldwell, 2007). However, there has been littleresearch examining the perceptions of young consumers with regardto the aesthetic and functional aspects of apparel products within across-cultural context.

    Many earlier researchers, such as Gersak (2002), propose thatapparel products can be divided into categories with distinctivefunctional and aesthetic behavioural characteristics. Functionalcharacteristics of clothing refer to properties such as usage andperformance, comfort, durability and ease of care. Aesthetic

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    characteristics refer to the products visual appeal (Lewalski, 1988)and aesthetic experience (Csikszentmihalyi and Robinson, 1990).Many researchers support the notion that aesthetic and functionalelements have always coexisted within a product (Holbrook, 1995;Morganosky, 1984, 1987), regardless of the product type. For in-

    stance, some physical features of a garment such as cargo pocketscan be designed for aesthetic decoration as well as functional usage.

    Aesthetic design is inherently related to the physical form of aproduct, while aesthetic experience comprises the multi-sensorypleasures it induces. As individuals wear and interact with clothing,their involvement creates various concrete benefits as well asexperiential pleasures. The concrete benefits are usually observablewithout actual consumption or usage, such as colour value (dark/light), fabric texture (coarse/fine), or pocket size (big/small). However,

    experiential pleasures may only be available or better understoodduring the consumption stage or during its actual usage generatingvarious pleasures such as stimulation of the senses, expression ofemotions and creation of symbolic content (Fiore and Kimle, 1997).

    Furthermore, a product with a strong and distinctive form orappearance could be easily categorized within an individualslong-term memory. If the need for certain types of product arise,consumers are more likely to prefer ones that convey appropriatemeaning and project a strong resonance for the viewer. For example,a silk dress with elaborate embroidery may portray a high societal

    status, low-rise skinny jeans may display a feminine or sexual image,distressed garments may suggest a sense of vintage or nostalgia,and baggy pants worn with an oversized athletic jersey shirt maybe associated with hip-hop culture. Different product appearancesgenerate different functions, meanings and inferences (Berkowitz,1987; Bloch, 1995). Thus, the appearance of a garment reaches outto consumers in many ways that affect first impressions, purchaseintent and satisfaction playing an important role between theinteraction of the wearer and the perceived responses of the viewers.

    Cross-cultural Differences and Hypotheses

    Development

    Economic Variance

    China has undergone tremendous change since the launchof Economic Reform in 1979. The economy has shifted from aclosed market to an open market system, and total retail saleshave grown about 13% a year over the past decade (McKinseyQuarterly, 2006). Despite the rapid economic growth, the disposable

    income of Chinese consumers is still relatively low in comparison totheir Canadian counterparts. In 2005, the average annual incomeof Chinese urban dwellers was 18,405 yuan (about US $2,687)(National Bureau of Statistics of China, 2006), while their counterpartsin Canada earned $26,500 (about US $24,539) (Statistics Canada,

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    2008). Due to the income variance, Chinese consumers are relativelycautious about their spending, and are more concerned with thequality of a product. The notion of best value for money plays acritical role in buying decisions. According to Levy (1996), 88% ofChinese consumers made his/her purchase decisions based on

    factual information more so than just on emotional responses.

    The Social Self and Private Self

    Other than the impact of personal income, the needs and aspirationsof young Chinese consumers are constantly shaped and influencedby their values and beliefs. On one hand, they are strongly influencedby traditional values such as family, patriotism, saving face, inter-dependence, modesty, perseverance and frugality (Lin, 2001;Wong and Ahuvia, 1998). On the other hand, they are experiencing

    changes to their value system, influenced by Western culture andvalues of individualism and personal liberty (Sun and Collins, 2002).Thus, it is not uncommon to see both traditional values and Westernideology coexist among the young in these contemporary times.

    Although young Chinese consumers have become more recept-ive to Western culture and foreign products, there is still more focusplaced on the social self rather than the private self (Anderson andHe, 1998). Many prior studies have reported that social status andthe concept of face (mianzi) still plays a pivotal role in Chineseconsumer culture, and individuals live under constant pressure to

    maintain or preserve their face in the public eye. As such, facecould make Chinese consumers slower to accept new innovative orcutting-edge styles.

    In Western societies such as Canada, the inner private self ismore significant in regulating consumer behaviour. A consumerspreferences, tastes and personal values play an important role onproduct evaluation and purchase decisions. In general, Canadianconsumers do not seek approval from others when they consumeclothing, but rather judge a product based on their personal needs

    and aspirations. Thus, there are no considerations given to thenotion of face and social conformity being accepted by certainsocial groups is not a major purpose of life.

    Collectivism and Individualism

    A substantial amount of literature has examined the global notionof collectivism and individualism (Berry et al, 1992; Oyserman andLee, 2008). According to Hofstede (1984), Chinese society is highin collectivism, whereas Canadian society is high in individualism. Ina collectivistic society, consumers tend to pay more attention to thesocio-cultural aspects of tradition and conformity. These consumersdo not want to take the risk of social disapproval for displayingan advanced or unique fashion image. They will use clothing toassociate themselves to their desired in-group members andwould rather conform to the acceptable social norm and follow the

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    current fashion trends. For example, denim jeans that are bleached,torn or distressed are unlikely to be accepted by consumers in acollectivist society, since they connote old, used and disorderliness.However, in an individualistic society, distinctiveness and innovationis encouraged, more concern is placed on the attainment of an

    individuals goal and open personal expression. Therefore, torn anddistressed jeans would be more acceptable since individualisticconsumers are more focused on their personal wants, experientialneeds and rights (Roth, 1995).

    Hypotheses

    Based on the preceding discussions, we proposed the followingresearch hypotheses:

    H1: Young Chinese consumers are relatively more concerned with thefunctional aspects of denim jeans than their Canadian counterparts.H2: Young Chinese consumers are relatively less concerned with theaesthetic appeal of denim jeans than their Canadian counterparts.H3: Young Chinese consumers are less willing to take risks on newor atypical styles than their Canadian counterparts.H4: Social conformity plays a critical role for young Chinese con-sumers, while individual expression is a major factor for youngCanadian consumers in the evaluation and consumption of denim

    jeans.

    Questionnaire and Participating Subjects

    A self-administered survey was designed and developed for thisstudy. In order to understand participants perceptions and prefer-ences towards specific features of denim jeans, a questionnairecontaining product-related behaviour measures and demographicquestions was used. Visual stimuli were also incorporated in thisstudy to offer a more realistic examination of denim jeans. Asindicated in Table 1, visual stimulus was deliberately not adopted for

    the colour and fabric attributes; the reason being that visual stimuluswas not an effective instrument to measure respondents colourpreferences. For example, dark-coloured denim consists of manydifferent shades/treatments (such as raw denim, dark indigo, rinsedenim, and eight- or twelve-dip indigo), and it was not appropriate toselect one shade of blue to represent the whole range of this darkercolour value. In a similar vein, visual stimulus was also unnecessaryfor analysing fabric attributes because it could not offer interactionand tactile information (for example, weight and softness) to therespondents.

    From our literature review (as shown in Appendix I), nine productcues (brand name, price, country of origin, style, quality, fit, comfort,colour and fabric) and seven specific design features (silhouette, legopening, waistline/rise, pockets, back pocket embellishment, fabricand colour) of denim jeans were identified. Each design feature

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    consisted of two to six variations (see Table 1 for description of thevariations).

    Additionally, several open-ended questions were used to discoverthe underlying motivations associated with consumer preferences(see Appendix II). This allowed respondents to use their own

    words in explaining motives, expressing viewpoints and describingexperiences associated with denim jeans. For instance, if they likedor disliked ultra-low-rise jeans, a brief explanation for their reasonscould be included. The open-ended questions were analysed bymeans of content analysis, and closed items were analysed usingthe statistical package SPSS.

    This questionnaire was developed in English for Canadian re-spondents, and the back-translation method was used to preparethe Chinese version for use in China (Brislin, 1986). Prior to the

    pre-test, visual stimuli were assessed by five judges two fashiondesigners and three fashion professors. This validation process wasemployed to avoid errors or misunderstandings. The survey was thenpre-tested on a sample of fifteen female students in each country toidentify any potential problems and ambiguities, and correspondingamendments were made before the actual questionnaire wasadministered.

    Results and Discussions

    Subjects for this study were a convenient sample of female collegestudents from Hangzhou, China and Toronto, Canada. In total,usable data from 247 and 380 participants was collected in Chinaand Canada respectively. The subjects from these two countrieswere similar in age, with the vast majority falling between eighteenand twenty-four years old (as indicated in Table 2). The average

    Table 1 Description of visual stimuli and number of variations.

    Design features/

    physical attributes

    Visual

    stimuli

    Number of

    variations

    Description

    Silhouette 4 Loose, straight, slim, Stretch (form fitting)

    Leg openings 4 Tapered leg, boot-cut, flared leg, wide legWaistline/rise 4 Ultra-low-rise, low-rise, regular, high-rise

    Pocket: Back pocket

    Coin pocket

    2 Important, not important

    2 Important, not important

    Back pocket

    embellishment

    6 Six different designs from current brands:

    a. Rock & Republic (simple design)

    b. True Religion (simple design)

    c. Seven for All Mankind (fancy design)

    d. Citizen of Humanity (fancy design)

    e. Antik Denim (simple design)

    f. Paige Premium Denim (fancy design)Fabric 3 Stretch, non-stretch, doesnt matter

    Colour 5 Light blue, blue, dark blue, black, other

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    were more focused on the aesthetic aspects of denim jeans (fit andstyle). It is important to point out that the fit attribute can oftengenerate both functional benefits (that is, ease of movement) andaesthetic values (that is, visual appeal, trendiness). According toLiechty et al(2000), a good fit is based on three factors balance,room for movement and appearance. Nevertheless, it is evident thatthe hypotheses H1 and H2 were partially supported.

    Specific Design Features

    Respondents were asked to view the visual stimuli and rate theirfavourite waistline, fit, leg opening, and colour on a four-point Likertscale ranging from the most favourite (=4) to the least favourite(=1); and to give explanations for their preference of specific designfeatures (Table 4).

    According to the present study, Chinese respondents favouredthe regular waistline jeans, whereas their Canadian counterpartswere significantly in favour of the low-rise style. In terms of the most

    unfavourable or least desirable waistline, Chinese and Canadianrespondents cited ultra-low-rise and high-rise respectively.

    It is evident that Chinese consumer preference for the regularwaistline jeans was based on its moderate style and functionalattributes (comfort and ease of movement). In addition, they alsorated low-rise and ultra-low-rise jeans relatively low as comparedwith their Canadian counterparts. Some Chinese respondentsperceived low-rise jeans as fashionable, trendy and youthfulwhile others expressed that they were too revealing, indecentand inappropriate. In particular, the ultra-low-rise jeans seemedaesthetically unpleasing to many respondents. However, we are notimplying that Chinese consumers are conservative or insensitiveto fashion trends. Rather, they appear to be more cautious in theirresponse towards new trends and cutting-edge styles. In general,the Chinese choose to present themselves in a socially acceptable

    Table 3 Rankings of product cues importance.

    China Canada

    Product attribute Rank Mean S.D.* n Rank Mean S.D.* n

    Comfort 1 7.82 1.62 245 4 6.41 2.12 369Fit 2 7.74 1.78 242 1 7.81 1.62 371

    Quality 3 7.72 2.07 242 3 6.43 2.07 368

    Style 4 7.59 1.78 239 2 7.29 1.78 370

    Colour 5 6.94 2.11 241 6 5.30 2.11 368

    Fabric 6 6.81 2.22 241 7 4.65 2.22 365

    Price 7 6.39 2.16 240 5 5.99 2.16 369

    Brand 8 3.16 2.27 232 8 3.42 2.27 370

    Country of origin 9 1.84 1.61 231 9 1.81 1.61 369

    * S.D., standard deviation.

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    Table 4 Preferences of specific design features.

    Design elements Variations

    Waistline

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Regular

    nf215,X

    =3.36; [1]

    n=287,X=2.60; [2]

    Low-rise

    n=201,X

    =3.12; [2]

    n=346,X=3.67; [1]

    High-rise

    n=176,X

    =2.01; [3]

    n=270,X=1.35; [4]

    Ultra-low-rise

    n=177,X

    =1.48; [4]

    n=284,X=2.40; [3]

    Fit/silhouette

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Slim

    n=221,X

    =3.38; [1]

    n=334,X

    =2.95; [2]

    Straight

    n=216,X

    =2.89; [2]

    n=327,X

    =2.59; [3]

    Loose

    n=202,X

    =2.41; [3]

    n=324,X

    =1.81; [4]

    Form-fitting (stretch)

    n=207,X

    =2.14; [4]

    n=339,X

    =3.04; [1]

    Leg opening

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Flared

    n=233,X

    =3.48; [1]

    n=361,X

    =2.82; [2]

    Boot-cut

    n=219,X

    =3.01; [2]

    n=367,X

    =3.37; [1]

    Tapered

    n=210,X

    =1.96; [3]

    n=354,X

    =2.29; [3]

    Wide

    n=210,X

    =1.65; [4]

    n=356,X

    =1.60; [4]

    Back pocket

    embellishment

    Respondents

    preference:

    Chinese n=236

    Canadian n=380

    a. Rock & b. True c. Antik d. Seven e. Citizen f. Paige

    Republic Religion

    34.4%; [1] 21%; [2] 19.3%; [3] 8.8%; [4] 8.0%; [5] 7.6%; [6]

    24.5%; [1] 20%; [2] 9.1%; [5] 19.7%; [3] 18.4%; [4] 7.6%; [6]

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    Back pocket

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Important: n=195, 79.9%

    Important: n=321, 84.5%

    Not important: n=49, 20.1%

    Not important: n=51, 13.4%

    Coin pocket

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Important: n=118, 48.4%

    Important: n=85, 22.4%

    Not important: n=126, 51.6%

    Not important: n=282, 76.8%

    Colour

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Dark blue

    n=221,X

    =3.00; [1]

    n=365,X

    =3.45; [1]

    Blue

    n=218,X

    =2.8; [2]

    n=363,X

    =2.86; [2]

    Light blue

    n=221,X

    =2.78; [3]

    n=358,X

    =2.20; [3]

    Black

    n=209,X

    =2.21; [4]

    n=359,X

    =1.82; [4]

    Fabric stretch

    Chinese

    Canadian

    Stretch

    n=100, 41.0%

    n=215, 56.6%

    Non-stretch

    n=68, 27.9%

    n=51, 13.4%

    Dont care

    n=76, 31.1%

    n=108, 28.4%

    Design elements Variations

    context; yet, they also like being fashionable and stylish. This be-comes an ongoing struggle between standing out and blendingin for many consumers. In this particular cultural context, socialconformity obviously played a critical role in the evaluation andconsumption of denim jeans for young Chinese consumers, andhypotheses H3 and H4 were supported.

    On the other side, the Canadian respondents frequently describedlow-rise jeans as stylish, trendy, attractive, appealing and mostflattering. Body image also played an important part with manyrespondents, who reported that low-rise jeans could accentuate orenhance their body figure to look slimmer, elongate the torso andshow the body silhouette better. Other than the aesthetic percep-tions of low-rise jeans, some respondents also expressed that thelow-rise jeans were psychologically sexy, making them feel morephysically desirable or attractive when wearing these style of jeans.

    Additionally, the majority of the Canadians preferred form-fittingand slim-fit jeans for similar reasons. They found both models/silhouettes to be fashionable, aesthetically pleasing, comfortable andsexy. According to this finding, hypothesis H4 was also supported.

    In terms of pocket features, both Chinese and Canadian re-spondents reported that they preferred denim jeans with backpockets but not necessarily with the coin pocket (as shown in Table4). Although no significant differences were found, more Canadianrespondents (n=282; 76.8%) reported that the coin pocket wasinsignificant while their Chinese counterparts (n=126; 51.6%) viewedthe coin pocket as an important feature due to its authenticity ororiginality. They extended that a pair of typical denim jeans shouldconsist of five pockets two scoop pockets at the front, one coinpocket and two back pockets. This finding is in line with Triandis(1989, 1990). His study explained that individuals in more rigid,

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    structured or tight cultures (Eastern societies) prefer predictability,certainty and security, whereas individuals from independent orloose cultures (Western societies) prefer creativity and diversity(1989). Therefore, this particular finding supported hypothesis H3as well.

    Additionally, respondents were asked to view and select theirfavourite back pocket embellishment from six variations. All the em-bellishments were chosen from current premium denim jeans brandswith different designs ranging from simple to fancy. The results ofthis study indicated that our respondents preferred simple designs(a: Rock & Republic and b: True Religion) to the fancy or complexdesigns (Table 5). Fancy embellishments on the back pocket weredisliked because it was perceived that they would draw additionalattention to the hips area.

    In order to discover whether the respondents could recognizethe brand solely by these design embellishments, they were askedto identify the brand name prior to making their choices. The resultsshowed that only a small number of respondents (Chinese, n=10;Canadian, n=35) attempted to answer this particular question; andtwo pocket embellishments (True Religion and Seven for all Mankind)were identified correctly by five Canadian respondents. In otherwords, the majority of the respondents failed to recognize the brandname. Thus, it is believed that the choices for favourite design werebased on aesthetic and personal taste rather than brand preference.

    The Chinese and Canadian samples were also asked to choosetheir favourite leg opening, fabric and colour. According to the findingsof this study, no significant differences were found. A vast majority ofboth samples preferred flared and boot-cut, stretch denim fabric anddark blue colour for their jeans.

    Conclusion

    Functional Benefits and Aesthetic Experience

    The specific design of a pair of jeans can generate and elicit avaried range of psychological, aesthetic and behavioural responses.Manipulation, modification or elimination of any single design elementcould affect the overall perceived value of a product. Accordingto the results of this study, the functional or instrumental valuesof denim jeans were deemed to be of vital importance to manyChinese consumers. In other words, these functionally orientedconsumers were more likely to value needs over wants, practicalityover creativity and convenience over appearance. For example,many respondents have indicated that regular fit and stretch denim

    jeans offer ease of movement, comfort and superior quality, andthese reasons have increased their perceived value and expectedlifespan for the product. Therefore, fashion practitioners should payattention to material selection, product quality and fit engineering inorder to meet the needs of young Chinese consumers.

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    In contrast, Canadian consumers were more concerned with theirindividual self rather than the social self; and therefore, aestheticvalues played a significant role in jeans evaluation and consump-tion. Selection of their favourite jeans was based on fit, style andquality. The fit/silhouette attribute especially assisted consumers in

    assessing and understanding the importance of the product andself-congruency. As the most important cue, it enhanced physi-cal pleasure and functional usage, as well as generated strongeraesthetic values and psychological benefits. In other words, if a pairof jeans did not fit body type, enhance self-image, nor provide expe-riential pleasure, these consumers were unlikely to buy the product.

    A substantial number of Canadian consumers agreed that the low-rise skinny jeans could accentuate desired body parts, camouflageperceived figure faults, and make the wearer appear more appealing,

    sexually attractive and desirable. As Auty and Elliot (1998) pointout in their study of denim jeans, It is more important to fulfil thesymbolic needs of consumers because their functional needs in thiscase are to a large extent dependent on their symbolic ones. In otherwords, if the jeans do not satisfy a consumers image requirements,they will not be perceived to be well cut or comfortable either.

    Conformity and Individuality

    A consumers prior knowledge and experience with denim jeanscould affect her perceptions and understanding of the product

    quality and performance (Kahmann and Henze, 2002). In manycases, consumers may infer the functional usage and benefits basedon product features and characteristics. In other words, distinctiveand specific design features are more likely to be retrieved frommemory and used as a guideline or yardstick to predict and evaluatethe benefits (both cognitive and affective) of a product.

    According to the results of our study, moderate styles (that is,regular waistline and slim fit) with unified and prototypical designfeatures in dark blue colour were more acceptable to the Chinese

    youth market. The reasonable explanation is that consumers incollectivistic societies tend to pay considerable attention to thesocio-cultural aspects of tradition and conformity. Individuals useclothing to reinforce social membership and to avoid rejection by theirpeers. In other words, the desire to conform is an important criterionin purchase decisions. Many Chinese consumers will not take therisk of social disapproval for unusual, progressive or cutting-edgefashion styles. In this respect, this may explain the preference forregular waistline and slim-fit jeans rather than the ultra-low-rise andform-fitting style by the Chinese respondents. In a similar vein, amodification or disruption of a unified design (that is, removal of coinpocket or back pockets) could exert a negative effect on consumerswho are following a cultural norm. As Schtte and Ciarlante (1998)assert, Chinese tend to choose the middle-of-the-road style orbrand rather than one that would make them stand out.

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    In short, social and functional benefits were more prominent inthe minds of Chinese consumers; and it appears that many Chineseconsumers would prefer a product that offers a socially acceptablestatus, good quality and functional value.

    For their Canadian counterparts, psychological and aesthetic

    values were more critical; their concerns being placed on the privateself and aesthetic experience. As part of an individualistic society,Canadian consumers tend to use clothing to build identity, expressindividual self and enhance outward appearance. They are morefocused on their personal needs, wants and rights rather than withsocial comparisons, norms, or prestige. Wheeler et al(1989) pointout that the Chinese place stress on harmonious interactions withothers, whereas Westerners focus on the expression of private self.

    Final NotesIt is important to point out that due to the differences in socio-culturalcontexts, the general acceptance of fashionable clothing may varyacross nations or societies. With these perspectives, multinationalfashion companies should produce products with a mixed assort-ment of design features and merchandise categories that cater todifferent needs and wants across diverse market segments. Wealso suggest that an incremental design approach (slow evolutionarychanges) may be more appropriate and effective in a collectivisticmarket than a radical design approach (image of extreme individuality)

    that would entail rapid or revolutionary changes over a short periodof time.

    Nevertheless, we should be cautious with this notion becausecultural values and beliefs are not static. They erode and evolvethrough time and globalization. Marketers should constantly monitorand identify the tastes and desires of young consumers whilefashion designers and practitioners must pay attention to both thefunctional and aesthetic features of the products they design. Iffashion enterprises want to be successful in todays Chinese and

    Canadian milieu, they must discover what product attributes couldtrigger particular cognitive and affective responses among youngconsumers.

    Limitations

    It is important to understand how denim jeans shape todays con-sumer identity, subjectivity and behaviour. Likewise, it is also criticalto understand how and why individuals seek meaning and valuewithin a pair of denim jeans. We believe this research study providesinsights to international fashion companies and practitioners forfuture product design innovation and marketing strategies.

    However, as with most studies, there are a number of limita-tions to this current research. Firstly, the effects of product cuesmay not be perceived consistently or equally across all apparelcategories. Although denim jeans are widely accepted by young

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    consumers globally, further research should be conducted on otherapparel products to better understand consumer perception andpreferences. Secondly, consumer response toward product designand specific features may vary across diverse consumer markets.

    Validity and reliability could be higher if this study were conducted

    across multiple collectivistic and individualistic societies. Thirdly,different demographic groups and geographic location could beincluded. Consumers may have different needs and desires whenbelonging to different age groups and socio-cultural environments.

    Therefore, more research is needed to further substantiate thevalidity and extend the concept of this study.

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    Biographies

    Osmud Rahman is an Assistant Professor and Program Directorfor Fashion Communication in the School of Fashion, RyersonUniversity, Toronto. He teaches both Fashion Design and Fashion

    Communication programs. His works have appeared in variousinternational conferences and journals such as The EuropeanAcademy of Design Conference, The World Texti le Inst ituteConference,Journal of Fashion Marketing and ManagementandInternational Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education.His research interests are consumer behaviour, fashion design,fashion culture and branding. He is currently involved in a researchstudy of consumer behaviours and perceptions of both high- andlow-involvement products in a cross-cultural context.

    YanJiang is an Associate Professor at the Fashion School ofZhejiang Sci-Tech University, China. The strong cultural orientation inthe fashion market of China has become a mainstay in her researchinterest.

    Dr Wing-sun Liu is a Lecturer at the Hong Kong PolytechnicUniversity. His research interest lies in the areas of symbolic meaningof consumption, fashion, postmodernism, consumption culture anddesign. The titles of some of his recent studies are: Consumption

    of Pain, Lolitas, Perfumes, Louis Vuitton in a Government-AidedHousing Project.

    Addresses for Correspondence

    Osmud Rahman, School of Fashion, Ryerson University, 350 VictoriaStreet, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 2K3.

    Tel: +1 416 979 5000 ext. 6911Fax: +1 416 979 5227Email: [email protected]

    Yan Jiang, School of Fashion, Sci-Tech University, Xiasha UniversityTown, Hangzhou, China, 310018.Tel: + 86 571 8684 3078Fax: + 86 571 8684 3481Email: [email protected]

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    Appendix I Prior research studies on apparel product cues.

    Author Year Journal* Country Sample size/

    subject

    Product Product cue

    May and

    Koester

    1985 HERJ USA n=490 (276

    Juniors: 912;

    145 Intermediates:

    1315; 69 Seniors:

    1619)

    Clothing Fit, style, quality construction,

    price, care, colour, brand,

    coordinate with other clothes,

    latest fashion

    Kawabata

    and Rabolt

    1999 JCSHE USA and

    Japan

    n=186 (US female

    college students)

    n=278 (Japanese

    female college

    students)

    Clothing Fit, style/design, quality, price,

    care/maintenance, colour,

    fashion, brand name, durability,

    country-of-origin, fibre content

    DeLong

    et al.

    2002 CTRJ South

    Korea and

    USA

    n=34 (Korean

    university students)

    n=32 (US

    university students)

    Jeans Colour, style/design, brand name,

    fit of rise, tactile quality, details,

    price, fabric quality, comfort, fit

    Herbst and

    Burger

    2002 JFECS South

    Africa

    n=213 (81 male

    and 132 female

    high school

    students)

    Jeans Brand, style (cut/fit), place of

    purchase (store), price

    Hsu and

    Burns

    2002 CTRJ Taiwan

    and USA

    n=203 (119

    Taiwanese and

    84 US college

    women)

    Clothing Size/fit, comfort, style,

    coordination with other clothing,

    colour, appropriateness for

    campus wear, quality, fabric,

    price, pleasing to others,brand name, and location of

    manufacturer

    Zhang et al. 2002 JFMM China n=3,534

    respondents

    Casual wear Fit, comfort, style, colour,

    workmanship, price, permeability,

    fabric softness, trendiness,

    durability, easy care, brand, fibre

    content, warmth, fabric thickness

    Kwan et al 2004 JMWBR China n=161 (female

    university students)

    Casual wear Adaptability to different

    occasions, brand, colour, colour-

    fastness, comfort, country-of-origin, durability, easy for care,

    enhancement of self image,

    fashionability, fibre content, fit,

    price, rarity, sex appropriateness,

    store image, style, uniqueness,

    ventilation and workmanship

    Wing-sun Liu, Institute of Textiles & Clothing, Hong Kong PolytechnicUniversity, Hung Hom, Hong Kong.

    Tel: + 852 2766 6444Fax: + 852 2773 1432Email: [email protected]

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    Forney et al 2005 JFMM USA n=739 surveys

    (female

    consumers)

    Casual

    apparel

    &casual home

    furnishings

    Image, quality, design/beauty and

    colour/style

    Swinker

    and Hines

    2006 IJCS USA n=146 (93%

    female and 7%

    male college

    students)

    Clothing Style/fit, price, fashionability,

    colour, fabric feels, design

    features, brand name, wrinkle

    properties, durability, dimensional

    stability of fabric, pilling

    Wang and

    Heitmeyer

    2006 IJCS Taiwan n=485 (344 female

    and 141 male

    consumers)

    Apparel Care instruction, brand

    name, quality, fibre content,

    comfort, colour, attractiveness,

    fashionableness, good fit, goodprice, ease of care, suitability,

    appropriate for occasion, overall

    attitude

    Wu and

    DeLong

    2006 JFMM China n=219 (shoppers

    wearing jeans)

    Jeans Comfort, fit/shape, design/

    cut, fashion, quality, durability,

    casualness, good, price, fabric,

    care, style, workmanship, brand,

    character, versatility, country-of-

    brand-origin, authenticity/classic,

    various feelings

    * Abbreviations of cited journals: CTRJ, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal; HERJ, Home Economic Research

    Journal(now Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal); IJCS, International Journal of Consumer Studies;

    JCSHE,Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics(now International Journal of Consumer Studies); JFECS,

    Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Studies; JFMM,Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management; JMWBR,

    Journal of Management & World Business Research.

    Author Year Journal* Country Sample size/

    subject

    Product Product cue

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    Evaluative Criteria of Denim Jeans

    Appendix II Open-ended questions.

    Is it important to have back pockets on denim jeans?

    YesNo Why?

    Is it important to have coin pocket on denim jeans?

    YesNo Why?

    What do you prefer?

    a. Stretch denim

    b. Non-stretch denim

    c. Doesnt matter

    Why?

    Why?

    Why?

    What is your favourite waistline? Please rate the following items on the scale of 1 to 4.

    (4=most favourite, 1=least favourite)

    a. Ultra-low-rise

    b. Low-risec. Regular

    d. High-rise

    Why?

    Why?Why?

    Why?

    What is your favourite fit? Please rate the following items on the scale of 1 to 4.

    (4=most favourite, 1=least favourite)

    a. Loose

    b. Straight

    c. Slim

    d. Stretch

    Why?

    Why?

    Why?

    Why?

    What type of leg opening do you prefer? Rate the following items on the scale of 1 to 4. (4=most

    favourite, 1=least favourite)

    a. Boot-cut

    b. Flared leg

    c. Tapered leg

    d. Wide leg

    Why?

    Why?

    Why?

    Why?

    What is your favourite colour? Please rate the following items on the scale of 1 to 4.

    (4=most favourite, 1=least favourite)

    a. Dark blueb. Blue

    c. Light blue

    d. Black

    e. Other

    Why?Why?

    Why?

    Why?

    Why?