Estimating and Installation Manual - Willamette Graystone

Diamond®

Estimating andInstallation Manual

Highland Stone® •

Jumper Accessory Unit

Anchor Wall Systemsis a proud member

of the ALCA.

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Diamond®

Highland Stone®

Estimating andInstallation Manual

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-5

Product Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-7

Installation Instructions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-23

Special Applications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24-25

Estimating Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26-28

Quantity Estimator Tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29-30

Estimating Worksheet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31-32

Glossary of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Frequently Asked Questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

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Retaining wall products from Anchor Wall Systems offer the choice to add color, shape, pattern andtexture to any landscape. You can transform gentle slopes into more interesting landscaping features and help tame steep, problem hillsides or slopes into an attractive, usable part of the landscape.

Today’s consumers are having retaining walls installed to improve their properties and increase the valueof their homes. According to a recent Anchor Wall Systems survey, three in four consumers said retainingwalls increased the value of their property as much as 15 percent! More and more homeowners areoutdoor-oriented and are installing raised patios and putting greens, ponds, waterfalls, pools, spas, andeven outdoor kitchens. They get the majority of their ideas from seeing the landscaping projects of family,friends or neighbors.

For commercial landscaping, there are two major forces driving the need for retaining walls. First, the needfor buildable land space, which retaining walls help achieve during site development (e.g., eliminating aslope for additional building or parking space). Equally important is commercial landscaping that involveslawns and gardens for hotels, office buildings, schools, hospitals and parks. This type of landscaping ischosen by the building owners to further the prestige of the building or company as well as provide leisureand recreational spaces for employees, customers and other users of the property.

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HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

This guide is designed to provide information for product quantity, cost estimating and installation purposes. Actual projectconditions vary, so final wall design, including the design ofgeosynthetic reinforcement, must be performed by a professionalengineer.

If you require additional installation information, request the Anchor Highland Stone Installation and Special Applicationsvideo, which demonstrates basic wall construction as well asspecial wall applications, including inside and outside 90º cornersand inside and outside radii; steps; cap replacement; terracedwalls; water applications; fences and guard rails.

To obtain a copy of the Anchor Highland Stone video, contactyour local Anchor Wall Systems dealer or manufacturer, or contact Anchor Wall Systems at 1-877-295-5415.

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THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF RETAINING WALLS: GRAVITY WALLS AND REINFORCED WALLS

A gravity wall, or non-reinforced wall, relies on the weightand batter of the retaining wall to resist the loads imposed onthe structure by the retaining soil. Diamond units andHighland Stone units can be used to build gravity walls up to4 feet (1.2m) tall.

A reinforced wall is designed by a qualified engineer usinggeosynthetic reinforcement. Reinforced walls are usuallygreater than 4 feet (1.2m) tall and have special loading conditions present like slopes or surcharges.

With products from Anchor Wall Systems, there's no need for mechanical attachments or mortar because of the patentedrear lip that ensures quick, accurate installation and align-ment.

1. Ask questions to understand your customer’s needs,

make recommendations, and present a written bid and

plan that’s agreed on prior to proceeding.

2. For walls taller than 4 feet (1.2m) or site conditions in

clay or poor soils, meet with a wall design engineer to

discuss the design of the walls, and review soil types,

drainage and the geosynthetic reinforcement needed.

3. Prepare a drawing of the site with the wall location,

lengths and elevations.

4. Understand the site soils. Ideal soils are sand and gravel.

Clay soils may require the involvement of an engineer.

Organic soils should NOT be used as fill behind the wall.

5. Plan the drainage to avoid erosion or buildup of water

behind the wall. For example, where will water drain

through the wall? Where will downspouts expel? Will

there be an underground sprinkler system?

6. Confirm the location of underground utilities.

7. Obtain all necessary building permits.

8. Follow the guidelines for job site safety established by

your state’s Department of Labor. Take special precau-

tions for OSHA requirements, which include maintaining

safe slopes.

9. Document the scope of the project, including changes

made during construction. Use photos, which are excel-

lent in assisting with questions once construction is

complete and you’ve moved on to new projects.

GOOD BUSINESS TIPS FOR INSTALLERS:

TIP: Connect with other installers and improveyour business – join ALCA.

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CHOICE: YOU CREATE WHATEVER YOU WANT WITH DESIGN FLEXIBILITY, SHAPES AND COLORS

Retaining wall products from Anchor Wall Systems are available in a number of different sizes and styles suitablefor your various projects. There are a variety of warm, earthtone hues and natural, rock-like textures to choose from.

Like planning the entire project, it’s worth investing a littletime and thought into the colors chosen for retaining walland paving stone products. Use these tips to help yourcustomers find the right look that complements theirlandscape.

• Consider the color of the house or buildings and existingsurroundings and choose colors and textures that comple-ment them.

• If you choose colors for your retaining walls that are an exact match to the home or building, separate the two with plantings to add contrast and break up themonotony.

• Use contrasting colors that match different aspects of the home or building. For example, if the building is light colored with a dark roof, choosing a dark-colored retaining wall might complement nicely.

• Blend the color and texture to the architectural stylepresent. A brick exterior might be complemented nicelyby a straight-faced wall; brighter colors or beveled facestyles work well with contemporary architecture.

• When using concrete paving stones, contrast the color to the walls. If you have a dark paving stone patio,choose a lighter, complementary color for the wall.

ANCHOR HIGHLAND STONE® AND ANCHOR DIAMOND® PRODUCTS AND SPECIFICATIONS

Anchor Diamond®The leading choice for building gravity walls up to 4' (1.2m) high. (Walls higher than 4' (1.2m) should be designed by an engineer.) The Diamond unit is easyto install and use in creating interesting retainingwalls. Choose straight or beveled face styles.

Straight UnitNominal Dimensions: 6" x 171⁄4" x 12" (150mm x 435mm x 300mm)Weight*: 72 lbs. (33 kg)Coverage .72 sq. ft. (.065m2)Setback 11⁄8” (28mm)10.6˚ Batter

Beveled UnitNominal Dimensions: 6" x 157⁄8" x 12" (150mm x 400mm x 300mm)Weight*: 68 lbs. (31 kg)Coverage .67 sq. ft. (.06m2)Setback 11⁄8” (28mm)10.6˚ Batter

Anchor Highland Stone®Designed with attractive earth tone colors anda rough-hewn texture to achieve the look andfeel of natural stone. A system that is easy todesign and install, Anchor Highland Stone canreach heights of 4' (1.2m) without reinforcement.Walls higher than 4' (1.2m) should be designedby an engineer.

Accessory Units

Large UnitNominal Dimensions: 6" x 18" x 12"(150mm x 450mm x 300mm)Weight*: 73 lbs. (33 kg)Coverage .75 sq. ft. (.07m2)Setback 11⁄8” (28mm)10.6˚ Batter

Medium UnitNominal Dimensions: 6" x 12" x 12"(150mm x 300mm x 300mm)Weight: 59 lbs. (27 kg)Coverage .50 sq. ft. (.045m2)Setback 11⁄8” (28mm)10.6˚ Batter

Small UnitNominal Dimensions: 6" x 6" x 12"(150mm x 150mm x 300mm)Weight: 30 lbs. (14 kg)Coverage .25 sq. ft. (.0225m2)Setback 11⁄8” (28mm)10.6˚ Batter

* Partial Core

Note: Nominal Dimensions. Actual dimensions and weight may vary from thesenominal dimensions due to variations resulting from the manufacturing process.Specifications may change without notice. See your Anchor representative fordetails, color options, block dimensions and additional information.

Dimensions may vary by region.

Gravity wall height includes a buried base course.

General InformationCompressive strength: 3,500 psiAbsorption rate: 7% maxMaterial Composition: high-quality, zero-slump concrete

Cap UnitNominal Dimensions: 3" x 171⁄4" x 10"(75mm x 435mm x 250mm)Weight: 32 lbs. (15 kg)(For use with Diamond and Highland Stone.)

Step UnitNominal Dimensions: 6" x 16" x 12"(150mm x 400mm x 300mm)Weight: 85 lbs. (39 kg)(For use with Diamond and Highland Stone.)

Highland Stone Jumper UnitNominal Dimensions: 12" x 6" x 131⁄4"(300mm x 150mm x 333mm)Weight: 48 lbs. (22 kg)Coverage .50 sq. ft. (.045m2)(For use with Highland Stone.)

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Step 1

Stake Out the Wall

• Have a surveyor stake out the wall’s placement. Verify the locations with the project supervisor.

Excavation

• Excavate for the leveling pad to the lines and grades shown on the approved plans and excavateenough soil behind the wall for the reinforcement material. The trench for the leveling pad should be a minimum width of 24" (600mm) and 12" (300mm) deep. See diagram 1.

Step 2

Leveling Pad

• An aggregate leveling pad is made of a good compactible base material of 3/4 inch (19mm) minuswith fines.

• The pad must extend 6" (150mm) in front and behind the first course of block, and be at least 6"(150mm) deep.

• Compact the aggregate and make sure it's level. See diagram 2.

Step 3

Base Course

• The most important step in the construction process. Bury your base course of block.

• Run a string line along the back of the block to align the wall units.

• Use the right tools: a shovel, a level, and a rubber mallet.

• Begin laying block at the lowest elevation of the wall.

• Remove the rear lip of the block so that it will lie flat on the leveling pad.

• Place the blocks side by side, flush against each other, and make sure the blocks are in full contact with the leveling pad.

• Level front to back and side to side. If the wall site is on an incline, don’t slope the blocks; step themup so they remain consistently level.

• Check the blocks for proper alignment before moving onto the next step.

• For Highland Stone, we recommend using the largest unit, the 18" (450mm) wide unit, for the basecourse.

Step 4

Anchor Diamond®Next Lift Construction:

• Clean any debris off the top of the blocks.

• Place the second course of blocks on the base course while maintaining running bond and pull eachblock forward as far as possible to ensure the correct setback. See diagram 3.

• Backfill with drainage aggregate directly behind the block and add soil fill behind the aggregate.

• Compact the backfill before the next course is laid.

• Get to know the other contractors to make sure they don't drive heavy equipment near the wall.

• Self propelled compaction equipment should not be used within 4' (1.2m) of the wall units.

• You’ll need partial units to stay on bond. A masonry saw is recommended for partial units. Rememberto use the appropriate protective equipment like safety glasses when cutting units. Minimum cuttingis required. Just use another size of a Highland Stone unit.

To add jumper unit, see page 12.

Step 4A

Anchor Highland Stone®Next Lift Construction:

• Follow instructions as noted above.

• You can install the Anchor Highland Stone system using any combination of units. See diagram 4.

• Keep the wall bond by placing units in a staggered relationship to the course beneath.

• The chart above shows a base course of all 18" (450mm) wide units. This straight wall features a patternof 18" (450mm), 6" (150mm), and 12" (300mm) units in a repeating sequence.

Step 4B

• For best results, use a filter fabric, which should be placed directly behind the wall extending from thebottom of the base course to the middle of the top course. This will minimize material coming throughthe rough-hewn face texture of the Highland Stone. See diagram 5.

Wall InstallationAnchor Wall Systems offers you a choice of

products, colors and textures.

If you've installed Diamond® before, you'll

find that installation of the Anchor Highland

Stone® is amazingly similar (and just as

quick, efficient and accurate). The following

installation instructions feature a single

rear-lip product, the Diamond, but the

techniques outlined are for either product.

Where there are variations, we've added the

appropriate information.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Diagram 5

18" 18" 18" 18" 18" 18"

6"

8"

16"

12"

8"

4"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6"

BASE COURSE

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Step 5

Drainage Design

• Each project is unique. The grades on your site will determine what level to install the drain tile.

• Place the drain tile as low as possible behind the wall so water drains down and away from the wallinto a storm drain, or to an area lower than the wall. See diagram 6.

• Fill in the area behind the blocks with drainage aggregate, at least 12" (300mm) from the wall.

• Each project is unique. You may need to place and backfill several courses to achieve the properdrainage level.

• For best results, cover the drain tile with a geotextile sock which acts as a filter. The drain tile outletpipes should be spaced not more than every 75' (25m) and at low points of the wall. In order for thedrainage aggregate to function properly, it must keep clear of regular soil fill.

Step 6

Compaction

• Shovel the in-fill soil behind the drainage aggregate and compact the in-fill with a hand-operatedcompactor. See diagram 6 and 7.

• Make sure the aggregate is level with or slightly below the top of the base course.

• Place soil in front of base course and compact. Base course should be buried.

Step 7

Reinforcement (if required)

• Check your Wall Construction plan for which courses will need reinforcement.

• Clean any debris off the top layer of blocks.

• Measure and cut the reinforcement to the design length in the plans.

• The reinforcement has a design strength direction, which must be laid perpendicular to the wall.

• Place the front edge of the material on the top course, 2" (50mm) from the face of the block.

• Apply the next course of blocks to secure it in place.

• To keep it from wrinkling, pull the reinforcement taut and pin the back edge in place with stakes or staples.

• Add drainage aggregate behind the blocks then add the in-fill soil and compact it. See diagram 7.

• Know how your choice of reinforcement works! The strength direction of the reinforcement must be placed perpendicular to the wall.

• Remember – place the front edge of the reinforcement on top of the block, making sure it’s within 2" (50mm) of the face of the block. Correct placement ensures that you maximize the connectionstrength and keep the batter consistent.

• A minimum of 6" (150mm) of backfill is required prior to operating vehicles on the reinforcement. And remember, avoid sudden turning or braking. See diagram 8.

Step 8

Finish Grade and Surface Drainage

• Protect your wall with a finished grade at the top and bottom.

• To ensure proper water drainage away from the wall, use 6" (150mm) of soil with low permeability.This will minimize water seeping into the soil and drainage aggregate behind the wall.

Step 9

Site Cleaning & Restoration

• Brush off the wall and pick up any debris left from the construction process.

• Notify the job superintendent in writing that the construction of the wall is complete and the projectis ready for final inspection and acceptance.

• Following these Best Practices for construction will ensure the success of your Anchor Wall Systemsretaining wall.

• Planting vegetation in front and on top of the wall will help reduce the chance of erosion.

Diagram 6

Diagram 7

Diagram 8

PASO 1Replantee el muro con estacas • Haga replantear la colocación del muro con un agrimensor o

topógrafo. Verifique las ubicaciones con el supervisor delproyecto.

Excavación• Excave para la base de nivelación hasta las líneas y rasantes

indicadas en los planos aprobados, y excave suficiente suelodetrás del muro para el material de refuerzo. La zanja para labase de nivelación tendrá un ancho mínimo de 24 pulgadas(600 mm), y 12 pulgadas (300 mm) de profundidad.

PASO 2Base de nivelación• Una base de nivelación de agregado se hace con un buen

material de base compactable de 3/4 pulg. (19 mm), sin elagregado fino.

• La base debe extenderse 6 pulgadas (150 mm) por delante y pordetrás de la primera hilada de bloques, y tener como mínimo 6pulgadas (150 mm) de profundidad.

• Compacte el agregado y asegúrese de que esté nivelado.PASO 3Hilada de base• Este es el paso más importante en el proceso de construcción.

La hilada de base de bloques debe quedar bajo tierra.• Haga pasar una línea o cordel de elevación a lo largo de la parte

de atrás de los bloques para alinear las unidades del muro.• Use las herramientas adecuadas: una pala, un nivel y un mazo

de caucho.• Comience a colocar los bloques en el punto más bajo de

elevación del muro.• Quite el labio posterior de los bloques para que se asienten

sobre la base de nivelación.• Coloque los bloques uno junto al otro, cada uno al ras con el

otro, y asegúrese de que hagan buen contacto con la base denivelación.

• Nivele el frente con la parte de atrás, y un lado con el otro. Si elterreno del muro está sobre una pendiente, no incline losbloques; escalónelos para que mantengan un nivel uniforme.

• Compruebe que los bloques estén bien alineados antes decontinuar con el paso siguiente.

• Para Highland Stone, recomendamos usar la unidad másgrande, la de 18 pulgadas (450 mm) de ancho, para la hilada debase.

PASO 4Anchor Diamond® — Construcción de la siguiente tirada:• Limpie todo residuo de la parte superior de los bloques.• Coloque la segunda hilada de bloques sobre la hilada de base

mientras mantiene una adhesión ininterrumpida y tire de cadabloque hacia adelante, tanto como sea posible, para asegurarsede que se reasiente bien.

• Rellene con agregado para desagüe directamente detrás de losbloques y añada tierra de relleno detrás del agregado.

• Compacte el relleno antes de colocar la siguiente hilada.• Relaciónese con los demás contratistas y asegúrese de que no

pasen conduciendo equipos pesados cerca del muro.• Los equipos de compactado autopropulsados no deberán usarse

a menos de 4 pies (1.2 m) de distancia de las unidades del muro.• Necesitará unidades parciales para conservar la adhesión. Para

las unidades parciales, se recomienda usar una sierra demampostería. Al cortar las unidades, recuerde usar el equipo deprotección adecuado, como anteojos de seguridad. Se necesitahacer un mínimo de cortes. Sencillamente utilice unidadesHighland Stone de otro tamaño.

PASO 4A Anchor Highland Stone® — Construcción de la siguiente tirada: • Siga las instrucciones indicadas anteriormente.• Puede instalar el sistema Anchor Highland Stone con cualquier

combinación de unidades.• Para conservar la adhesión del muro, coloque las unidades en

forma alternada con respecto a la hilada inferior.• El gráfico (de abajo, a la izquierda) ilustra una hilada de base de

unidades de 18 pulgadas (450 mm) de ancho. Este muro recto se caracteriza por unpatrón de unidades de 18 pulg. (450 mm), 6 pulg. (150 mm) y12 pulg. (300 mm), en una secuencia de repetición.Para obtener el mejor resultado, utilice un tejido de filtrar, quese colocará directamente detrás del muro, extendiéndose desdela parte inferior de la hilada de base hasta la mitad de la hiladasuperior.

PASO 5Diseño del desagüe• Cada proyecto es único en sí mismo. Las rasantes del terreno

determinarán a qué nivel instalar las losas de desagüe.• Coloque las losas de desagüe tan bajas como sea posible detrás

del muro, para que el agua corra hacia abajo y en sentidocontrario al muro, hacia un desagüe pluvial, o hacia un sectormás bajo que el muro.

• Rellene el área detrás de los bloques con agregado paradesagüe, como mínimo hasta 12 pulgadas (300 mm) del muro.

• Cada proyecto es único en sí mismo. Es posible que necesitecolocar y rellenar varias hiladas hasta lograr el nivel de desagüeadecuado.

• Para obtener el mejor resultado, cubra las losas de desagüe conun tejido geotextil que hace las veces de filtro. Los tubos desalida de las losas de desagüe se espaciarán a no más de 75 pies(25 m) entre sí, y en puntos inferiores del muro. A fin de que elagregado para desagüe funcione bien, no debe mezclarse contierra de relleno común.

PASO 6Compactado• Acumule tierra de relleno con pala detrás del agregado para

desagüe, y apisone la tierra de relleno con un compactadormanual.

• Asegúrese de que el agregado esté a nivel con la parte superiorde la hilada de base o ligeramente debajo de la misma.

• Coloque tierra delante de la hilada de base y compáctela. Lahilada de base deberá quedar bajo tierra.

PASO 7Material de refuerzo (si es necesario)• Consulte el plano de construcción del muro para determinar las

hiladas que necesitarán material de refuerzo.• Limpie todo residuo de la hilada superior de bloques.• Mida y corte el material de refuerzo según la longitud del

diseño de los planos.• El refuerzo tiene una dirección de fuerza propia del diseño, la

cual debe aplicarse perpendicularmente al muro.• Coloque el borde frontal del material sobre la hilada superior, 2

pulgadas (50 mm) sobre la cara de los bloques.• Aplique la siguiente hilada de bloques para asegurar el material

en su lugar.• Para evitar que se arrugue, estire el tirante de refuerzo y sujete

el borde de atrás en su lugar con estacas o grapas.• Añada agregado para desagüe detrás de los bloques; añada la

tierra de relleno y compáctela.• ¡Sepa cómo funciona el material de refuerzo que escogió! La

dirección de la fuerza del refuerzo debe aplicarseperpendicularmente al muro.

• Recuerde: Coloque el borde frontal del refuerzo sobre la partesuperior de los bloques, asegurándose de que queden 2 pulgadas(50 mm) sobre la cara de los bloques. La colocación correctaasegurará que aproveche al máximo la fuerza de conexión ymantenga una inclinación uniforme.

• Se necesita un mínimo de 6 pulgadas (150 mm) de relleno antesde conducir vehículos sobre el refuerzo. Asimismo, tengapresente evitar giros o frenadas repentinos.

PASO 8Rasante de acabado y desagüe de superficie• Proteja el muro con una rasante acabada en la parte superior e

inferior.• Para asegurar un desagüe adecuado en sentido contrario al

muro, aplique 6 pulgadas (150 mm) de tierra con pocapermeabilidad. Eso reducirá la filtración del agua a la tierra y elagregado para desagüe detrás del muro.

PASO 9Limpieza y restauración del terreno• Limpie el muro con cepillo y recoja todo residuo propio del

proceso de construcción.• Notifique por escrito al director de la obra que ha finalizado la

construcción del muro y que el proyecto está listo para lainspección y aceptación final.

• Seguir las mejores prácticas de la construcción asegurará eléxito del muro de retención de Anchor Wall Systems.

• Cultivar plantas delante y detrás del muro contribuirá a reducirlas posibilidades de erosión.

18" 18" 18" 18" 18"

6"

8"

16"

12"

8"

4"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

12" 18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12"

18" 6" 12" 18" 6" 12" 18"

BASE COURSE

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Guía deinstalaciónAnchor Wall Systems (Sistemas de murode anclaje) es una empresa líder en materia de diseño y otorgamiento delicencias para sistemas de muro de retención de hormigón armado patentados. Los Anchor Wall Systems nonecesitan pernos ni mortero, y requierenpoco mantenimiento. La presente información proporciona instruccionespaso a paso para erigir muros de retención con el producto Anchor WallSystems. La belleza y el rendimiento de larga duración del muro Anchor Wall Systems dependen de la precisión y la atención con que usted se desempeñe durante la construcción.

SPANISH/ESPANOL~

PASSO 1Marcar a Localização da Parede com Estacas • Solicite a um especialista que proceda à marcação da

localização da parede com estacas. Verifique as localizaçõescom o supervisor do projecto.

Escavação• Execute a escavação para o suporte de nivelamento de acordo

com as linhas e graduações incluídas nos planos aprovados eescave solo suficiente por detrás da parede para o material dereforço. A vala para o suporte de nivelamento deve ter, nomínimo, 600 mm de largura e 300 mm de profundidade.

PASSO 2Suporte de Nivelamento• Um suporte de nivelamento agregado é constituído por um bom

material de base compactável com 19 mm ou menos commateriais não granulados.

• O suporte deve prolongar-se 150 mm para a frente e para trásda primeira fileira de blocos e ter pelo menos 150 mm deprofundidade.

• Compacte o agregado e certifique-se de que está nivelado.PASSO 3Fileira Base • Este é o passo mais importante no processo de construção.

Enterre a fileira base de blocos.• Passe um fio ao longo da parte de trás do bloco para alinhar as

unidades da parede.• Utilize as ferramentas correctas: uma pá, um nível e um maço

de borracha.• Comece a colocar os blocos na elevação mais baixa da parede.• Retire a borda traseira do bloco de modo a que fique totalmente

apoiado no suporte de nivelamento.• Coloque os blocos lado a lado, nivelados entre si, e certifique-se

de que os blocos estão totalmente em contacto com o suporte denivelamento.

• Nivele a frente com a traseira e um lado com o outro. Se o localda parede se situar num declive, não incline os blocos; coloque-os uns sobre os outros de modo a que se mantenham nivelados.

• Verifique que os blocos estão correctamente alinhados antes deavançar para o próximo passo.

• Para Highland Stone, recomendamos a utilização da unidademaior, a unidade com 18" (450 mm) de largura, para a fileira debase.

PASSO 4Construção da Fileira Seguinte de Anchor Diamond®:• Limpe quaisquer detritos de cima dos blocos.• Coloque a segunda fileira de blocos sobre a fileira de base,

mantendo simultaneamente o travamento e puxando cadabloco para a frente o mais que puder de modo a garantir ainstalação correcta.

• Preencha a parte de trás com agregado de drenagemdirectamente por detrás do bloco e acrescente enchimento deterra por detrás do agregado.

• Compacte o enchimento posterior antes de assentar a fileiraseguinte.

• Contacte os outros empreiteiros de modo a certificar-se de queestes não passarão equipamento pesado próximo da parede.

• Equipamento de compactação de propulsão automática nãodeve ser utilizado a menos de 1,2 m das unidades de parede.

• Irá precisar de unidades parciais para manter o travamento.Recomendamos a utilização de uma serra de pedreiro para asunidades parciais. Quando cortar as unidades, não se esqueça deenvergar equipamento de protecção adequado, como óculos desegurança. Apenas é necessário um mínimo de corte. Bastautilizar outro tamanho de uma unidade Highland Stone.

PASSO 4A Construção da Fileira Seguinte de Anchor Highland Stone®: • Siga as instruções indicadas acima.• Pode instalar o sistema Anchor Highland Stone utilizando

qualquer combinação de unidades.• Mantenha o travamento da parede colocando unidades de

forma desencontrada com a fileira anterior.• O esquema apresentado (no fundo à esquerda) mostra uma fileira

base de unidades de 18" (450 mm) de largura. Esta parede direitaapresenta um padrão de unidades de 18" (450 mm), 6" (150 mm)e 12" (300 mm) numa sequência repetida. Para obter os melhoresresultados, utilize um tecido filtrante, que deverá ser colocadoimediatamente atrás da parede desde o fundo da primeira fileiraaté ao meio da fileira superior.

PASSO 5Projecto de Drenagem• Cada projecto é único. As graduações no seu local determinarão

o nível a que deverá ser instalada a conduta de drenagem.• Coloque a conduta de drenagem tão baixo quanto possível na

parte de trás da parede de modo a que a água seja drenada eafastada da parede para uma valeta de escoamento de águas, oupara um local mais baixo do que a parede.

• Encha a área atrás dos blocos com agregado de drenagem, pelomenos 300 mm afastado da parede.

• Cada projecto é único. Pode ter que colocar e encher a partetraseira de várias fileiras com terra de modo a conseguir o nívelde drenagem adequado.

• Para obter os melhores resultados, cubra a conduta dedrenagem com um saco geotêxtil que actua como um filtro. Oscanos de escoamento da conduta de drenagem não deverãoestar afastados mais de 25 m e em locais baixos da parede. Paraque o agregado de drenagem funcione correctamente, deveráestar afastado do enchimento de terra normal.

PASSO 6Compactação• Com uma pá, coloque a terra de enchimento atrás do agregado

de drenagem e comprima o enchimento com um compactadormanual.

• Certifique-se de que o agregado está nivelado com o cimo ouligeiramente abaixo do cimo da fileira de base.

• Coloque terra na frente da fileira de base e compacte. A fileirade base deverá ficar enterrada.

PASSO 7Reforço (se necessário)• Verifique no plano de Construção da Parede quais as fileiras que

necessitam de reforço.• Limpe quaisquer detritos da fileira superior de blocos.• Meça e corte o reforço conforme o comprimento projectado nos

planos.• O reforço tem uma direcção de resistência projectada, que

deverá ser disposta de forma perpendicular à parede.• Coloque a extremidade dianteira do material sobre a fileira

superior, 50 mm afastada da face do bloco.• Aplique a fileira de blocos seguinte para o manter no lugar.• Para evitar que enrugue, estique bem o reforço e fixe a

extremidade de trás no lugar com grampos ou agrafos.• Adicione agregado de drenagem atrás dos blocos, depois

adicione a terra de enchimento e compacte-a.• Saiba como funciona a sua escolha de reforço! A direcção de

resistência do reforço deve ser disposta de forma perpendicularà parede.

• Não se esqueça: coloque a extremidade da frente do reforço no cimo do bloco, certificando-se de que está amenos de 50 mm da face do bloco. Uma colocação correctagarante que maximiza a resistência de ligação e mantém aconsistência da inclinação.

• É necessário um mínimo de 150 mm de enchimento posteriorantes de trabalhar com veículos no reforço. E não esqueça, eviteviragens ou travagens bruscas.

PASSO 8Terminar a Graduação e a Drenagem de Superfície• Proteja a sua parede com uma graduação de acabamento nas

partes superior e inferior.• A fim de assegurar uma drenagem adequada da água, utilize

150 mm de terra com baixa permeabilidade. Isto minimizará ainfiltração de água na terra e no agregado de drenagem atrás da parede.

PASSO 9Limpeza da Área e Reabilitação• Escove a parede e recolha quaisquer detritos resultantes do

processo de construção.• Notifique por escrito o supervisor da construção

de que a construção da parede está pronta e que o projecto estápronto para inspecção e aceitação final.

• Se seguir estas Boas Práticas de Construção, garantirá o sucessoda sua parede de retenção da Anchor Wall Systems.

• Plantar vegetação nas partes dianteira e superior da paredeajudará a reduzir as possibilidades de desgaste.

11

Guia deInstalação

A Anchor Wall Systems é líder na concepção e licenciamento de

sistemas patenteados de paredes deretenção em cimento. Os "Anchor WallSystems" não têm grampos, argamassa

e são de fácil manutenção. Esta informação oferece instruções passo a

passo para a instalação de paredes de retenção utilizando o produto da Anchor Wall Systems.

A beleza e desempenho duradouros da sua parede Anchor Wall Systemsdepende da precisão e cuidado que

tiver durante o processo de instalação.

PORTUGUESE/PORTUGESE

INSTALLATION• For best results and ease of installation,

install jumper units on top of an 18"-wide Anchor Highland Stone unit. See diagram 1.

• Standard placement is to set back thejumper unit approximately one inchfrom the face of the 18"-wide block onthe lower course.

• Apply a concrete adhesive to secure thejumper unit.

• Continue placement of Anchor HighlandStone units.

• For best results, place an 18"-wideAnchor Highland Stone unit on top ofthe jumper unit. See diagram 2.

INSTALLATION WITH REINFORCEMENT• Check your wall construction plan for

which courses will need reinforcement.

• Clean any debris off the top layer of blocks. Measure and cut the reinforcement to the design length in the plan. The reinforcement has adesign strength direction, which mustbe laid perpendicular to the wall.

• Place the front edge of the reinforce-ment on the block, 2" (50mm) from the face of the block. Place the jumperunit on the reinforcement.

• Apply the next course of block to secure it in place.

• If reinforcement is required in the center of the jumper unit, cut the reinforcement and position around the jumper unit. See diagram 3.

Anchor Highland Stone®

Jumper Unit Installation

12

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Estimating the number of jumper units is easy. See page 31.

JUMPER UNIT PLACEMENT DESIGNS• There is no required pattern for the Anchor Highland Stone jumper unit. You can achieve different

looks by increasing or decreasing the number of jumper units.

Following are some helpful patterns.

Jumper unit every 12 square feet.




13

IDEA!Place two jumper units side by side

for a unique look. Follow the diagram for a jumper unit every 12 square feet, but place two units rather than one.

Step 1

Proper installation of any Anchor retaining wall requires that running bondbe maintained. Running bond occurs when the blocks are centered over thevertical joints of the previous course. This adds to wall stability and makesyour wall system aesthetically beautiful.

Step 2

Any wall that is not perfectly straight will eventually run off bond. Whenthis happens, skip a block position and place the next block into the nextplace where it is back on bond. Measure the remaining gap and cut a blockto fit.

Tip: It may be possible to run the off bond block into the soil bank to avoidcutting of partial units.

Step 3

Once the partial unit is in place, adhere with a concrete adhesive. Partialunits should not be less than 5" (125mm) and should not be placed directlyon top of each other. If the gap is larger than the length of one block, dividethe measurement by two and put two partial units in place.

Running Bond

14

Step 1

Always start capping from the lowest elevation. Caps are trapezoidal in shapeand must be laid alternatively short and long cap faces to achieve a straightline. If your wall elevation changes, caps can be stacked where the wall steps up. Begin laying caps at the elevation change and work your way backtoward the previous step up. Split a cap unit to create a rough face on theexposed side. Place the half unit directly on top of the capped portion of thewall with all three split faces exposed. On a 90° corner wall, the corner capsneed to be saw cut to achieve a 45° mitered corner. After layout is completeand caps are saw cut or split to size, carefully adhere with a concrete adhesive.For capping inside and outside radius curves, lay the cap units side by sidewithout alternating long and short cap faces.

Tip: To determine the minimum number of caps needed on an average straightwall, measure the length of the wall. Multiply the length of the wall by 12"and divide by 14.5. If you are working in metric, multiply the length of yourwall in meters by 1000 and divide by 340. Additional caps will be needed forelevation changes and radius curves.

Cap Units

15

Step 1

Lay out the base course according to your wall design.

Step 2

Add the second course of steps, staggering them from the previous course to maintain running bond. Remember, it is very important to backfill and compact behind and along the sides of each course of step units. Place step units so the face of the step overlaps the previous course by 1.5" to 2" (35-50mm). Adhere the front of the step units to the preceding course with a concrete adhesive. Place and compact soil fill prior to installing thenext course.

Step 3

Build the second course of your wall. Place a standard block near the secondcourse of steps, maintaining running bond with the base course. Measure andcut a block to fit the space remaining between the step unit and the secondcourse of your wall. Place the unit in the wall, making sure that both the vertical edges fit tight against both the step and standard unit. Remove therear lip on the blocks when necessary, and angle the blocks flush with the face of the previous course. Adhere in place with a concrete adhesive. Thisprocedure will help maintain a uniform step width throughout construction.Complete the second course of the wall. Repeat these steps following properconstructions until the wall is finished.

Tip: Drain tile can be placed behind the lowest step units at grade. An alterna-tive would be to place the drain tile behind each wall adjacent to the steps.

Steps

16

Step 1

Independent Terraced Walls

For each wall to be independent of the other, they must be built using a 2:1ratio — the upper wall must be built a distance away from the lower wall ofat least twice the height of the lower wall. In addition, the upper wall mustalso be equal to or less than the height of the lower wall. Exceptions to thisgeneral rule include weak soil conditions or where slopes exist above, belowor between wall locations. For example, if the lower terrace is 3' (1m) tallthe distance between the upper terrace must be 6' (2m).

Step 2

Proper drainage is vital to maintaining stable, long lasting terraced walls.Drain tile must be installed so that the water is directed around or under thelower wall (never place the drain tile outlet for the upper wall above orbehind the lower wall).

Step 3

Dependent Walls

When the distance between the lower and upper walls is less than twice theheight of the lower wall, the walls become structurally dependent on eachother. In this situation, it is important to take global stability into account,incorporating additional reinforcement and longer layers into the wall plan.In addition, structurally dependent walls require even more excavation, backfill and time, so plan ahead. Be sure to check the wall plan for specificrequirements. For structually dependent walls consult with a qualified segmental retaining wall engineer.

Terraces

17

Step 1

To build an outside 90° corner,begin by placing a half unit at thecorner. Remove the locator lip sothat the block lays flat. Then laythe rest of the base course work-ing from the corner block out.

Step 2

Begin the second course withanother half unit. Place the second and third blocks on eitherside of the corner unit. Once thecorner unit is in position, adhereblock in place with a concreteadhesive. Continue to alternatethe corner unit orientation witheach course and always use a concrete adhesive.

Step 3

Use split units** as necessary tomaintain running bond.

** To split a block, use a hydraulic splitter or split manually by using a hammer and chisel to score the block on all sides. Pound the chisel on thesame line until the block splits. If partial unit sides are not exposed, use acircular cut-off saw with a masonry blade to achieve a tighter fit.

Step 1

To create an inside 90° corner, begin by placing a block at the corner. Then laya second block perpendicular to the first and continue laying out the rest ofthe base course working from the corner out. Make sure to construct the basecourse according to standard site prep and installation procedures describedearlier.

Step 2

On the second course, place all blocks on bond along one side of the corner.Once the second course of one wall is established, begin the second course ofthe adjacent wall.

Split units** may be required on this wall to maintain running bond.

** To split a block, use a hydraulic splitter or split manually by using a hammerand chisel to score the block on all sides. Pound the chisel on the same lineuntil the block splits. If partial unit sides are not exposed, use a circular cut-off saw with a masonry blade to achieve a tighter fit.

Step 3

Block placement in the corner should alternate direction with each succeedingcourse.

Outside 90˚ Corners

Inside 90˚ Corners

18

Step 1

To install reinforcement on an inside 90° corner, begin by checking your wall plan to determine reinforcement lengths and elevations. Cut your reinforcement to the lengths identified in your wall plan, paying attention to the reinforcement strength direction. Next, determine the proper placementof the reinforcement by dividing the total proposed height of the wall by 4.This represents the distance that reinforcement should extend beyond thefront of the adjoining wall. Measure this distance from the front of the adjoining wall and begin your grid placement here. Make sure the grid isplaced within 2" (50mm) of the face of the wall and runs along the back of the adjoining wall.

Example: If your overall wall height is 8' (2.4m), the reinforcementextension would be 2' (600mm).

Step 2

The next section of reinforcement on the adjoiningwall can then beplaced using the same formula to determine placement in front of adjoiningwall. The reinforcement should not overlap and should lie flush with previouslyplaced sections. Once reinforcement is in place, the next courses of block canbe installed. Alternate the reinforcement extension on each course where reinforcement is required.

Step 1

Begin by checking your wall plan to determine reinforcement lengths and elevations. Lay a section of reinforcement near the corner of the wall, ensuringthat it’s placed within 2" (50mm) of the face of the block and running alongthe back of the adjoining wall.

Step 2

Lay the next course of block, backfill and compact. When installing the nextsection of reinforcement, place within 2" (50mm) of the face of the blockand running along the back of the adjacent wall. Alternate the reinforcementextension on each course where reinforcement is required.

Reinforcement–Outside 90˚ Corners

Reinforcement–Inside 90˚ Corners

19

Step 1

When building an outside radius curve, begin by calculating the radius of your topcourse. This will be the smallest radius in the wall and must not be less than theminimum for the block system you are using*. Drive a stake into the ground at thedesired center of the curve. Attach a string and rotate it in a circle around the staketo mark the radius in the soil. Align the back of the block with the radius curve andensure level placement from side to side and front to back. Outside curves withbeveled units have a minimum radius of 2' (600mm). Outside curves with straightunits have a minimum radius of 4' (1.2m). When calculating a radius add a minimum1 1/4" (30mm) for the setback of each course. Partial units may be required tomaintain a running bond. For the Highland Stone, the minimum radius is 4' (2.4m).

Step 2

For each course, make sure the lip of each block is in contact with the back of theunits below to ensure structural stability. The set back of the block will cause theradius of each course to gradually decrease and eventually affect the running bondof the wall. To maintain proper running bond, use partial units as needed. Once asplit unit is cut to size, adhere in place with a concrete adhesive.

Step 1

Check your wall plan to determine the radius of your base course. This will be thesmallest radius in the wall and must not be less than the minimum for the block system you are using. Begin by driving a stake into the ground at the desired centerof the curve. Attach a string and rotate it in a circle around the stake to mark the radius in the soil. Align each block face with the radius curve and ensure level placement from side to side and front to back. Inside curves with beveled units havea minimum radius of 4' (1.2m). Inside curves with straight units have a minimumradius of 8' (2.4m). When calculating a radius add 1 1/4" (30mm) for the setback of each course. Partial units may be required to maintain running bond. For theHighland Stone, the minimum radius is 8' (2.4m).

Step 2

For the second course, make sure the lip of each block is in contact with the back ofthe units below to ensure structural stability. The set back of the block will cause theradius of each course to gradually increase and eventually affect the running bond ofthe wall. To maintain proper running bond, use partial units as needed. Once a partialunit is cut to size, adhere in place with a concrete adhesive.

Outside Curves

Inside Curves

20

Inside Radius Outside Radius

4' (1.2m)radius minimum on bottomcourse

2' (600mm)radius minimumon top course

BUILDING A RADIUSMinimum Inside Radius: Diamond Beveled Face = 4' (1.2m)Diamond Straight Face = 8' (2.4m)Highland Stone = 8' (2.4m)Minimum Inside Radius is on the bottom course.

Minimum Outside Radius: Diamond Beveled Face = 2' (600mm)Diamond Straight Face = 4' (1.2m)Highland Stone = 4' (1.2m) Minimum Outside Radius is on the top course.(Diamond beveled face units shown)

Step 1

Cut reinforcement to the required lengths as specified in your wall plan. Lay segments of reinforcement within 2" (50mm) of the face of the wall,making sure that the strength direction of each section is perpendicular to the wall face.

Step 2

Place the next course of blocks, marking the backs of blocks to identify the middle of unreinforced areas. Backfill and compact. Center subsequentsections of reinforcement on the marked blocks to ensure full reinforcementcoverage. Repeat this procedure throughout the construction of the radiuscurve when reinforcement is required.

Step 1

Cut reinforcement to the required lengths as specified in your wall plan. Lay sections of the reinforcement within 2" (50mm) of the face of the wallwith the strength direction perpendicular to the wall face. Avoid overlappingthe reinforcement by separating each section. Place the next course of blocks, marking the backs of blocks to identify unreinforced areas. This step is important because when this course is backfilled, it’s impossible to locate the unreinforced areas.

Step 2

Place the next course of blocks, marking the backs of blocks to identify unreinforced areas. This step is important because when this course is backfilled, it’s impossible to locate the unreinforced areas. Use the markedblocks as a guide, placing subsequent sections of reinforcement to overlap the gaps left on the previous course. This will ensure total reinforcement coverage. Repeat this procedure throughout the construction of the radiuscurve when reinforcement is required.

Reinforcement–Inside Curves

Reinforcement–Outside Curves

21

Water Applications

Step 1

Place a filter fabric with extra length in front of the wall.

Step 2

Install your leveling pad and the first course of block, including drain tile anddrainage aggregate. Wrap the extended filter fabric up along the face of thebase course. Place soil fill in front of the wall and compact. Install another section of filter fabric in front of the wall to protect against erosion. Cover the fabric with a minimum of 3" (75mm) of sand.

Step 3

Install larger stones such as riprap to hold it in place. Continue constructingyour wall. Drainage is vital. To prevent clogging of the drainage aggregate and drain tile by fine-grained soils, a geosynthetic filter fabric is installed to separate the drainage aggregate from the reinforce soils.

Step 4

Continue these steps until your wall is complete. The last section of filter fabricshould cover the drainage aggregate and run up against the back of the topcourse of block. Add fill soil and compact.

Keep in mind there are numerous issues related to water wall applicationsincluding wave or ice impact, erosion or scour in front of the wall and ice uplift of the wall that must be considered in the use of water applications of segmental retaining walls.

For more information consult with a qualified engineer.

22

FencesStep 1

Know the specific dimensions of the fence to determine the placement of the sleeves. Sleeves should be at least 1" (25mm) larger in radius than thefence posts to allow for mortar or grout. Install the sleeves according to the wall plan during the construction of your wall.

Step 2

If the fence is at least 3' (1m) behind the wall, generally no additional reinforcement is required. If the fence is installed within 3' (1m), there may be some load transferred to the wall from wind, snow or pedestrians.Additional reinforcement around the fence sleeves may be needed.

Step 3

Grout the fence post into the sleeve after the wall is built.

23

24

Special Applications

USING LIGHTS IN YOUR ANCHOR RETAINING WALL

Step 1

Begin by locating the center of the block where the light fixture is to beattached. Once the center has been determined, mark the location for eachscrew hole. Drill holes in the block to accommodate the screws.

Step 2

For the conduit wires, drill a hole leading from the front face of the segmentalretaining wall unit to the back of the block. This hole needs to be large enoughto lead your conduit wires through the block to your light fixture.

Step 3

Insert and run the conduit wires through the hole in the block until they areexposed on the back of the block.

Step 4

Attach the light fixture on the front face of the block and tighten the screws that will hold the light fixture in place. It should be installed so that it is flush, or nearly flush, with the face of the block.

Step 5

Carefully follow electrical instructions in regard to wiring.

Step 6

Install the block and connect the wire to complete the light installation.

Note: Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions, as various light fixtures may be assembled differently.

25

USING ANCHOR DIAMOND® STEP UNITS TO BUILD A PILLAR

The landscape installer was challenged by the homeowner to build pillars forlampposts. Here’s what he did:

Lay out a base course for the pillar using Anchor Diamond step units.

For each course of your pillar, you'll use and cut four step units.

Using a hydraulic splitter, cut the four step units to 14" (350mm) wide.

Lay the 14" (350mm) wide step units in a square formation with the face of each unit on one side of the square.

When the four blocks are laid, you’ll notice an approximate 2" (50mm)square between the blocks, which provides you space to run conduit.

Lay the next course following the same directions. Adhere with a high quality concrete adhesive. Stack the blocks vertically. There is no set back to this pillar.

To cap the pillar, place the long face of the Diamond cap unit toward theoutside and cut 45-degree angles.

Allow a gap for the conduit.

On this project, the light fixture required an additional base, which is madeout of a cap unit too. The cap unit was cut to a 10" by 10" (250mm by250mm) square and the light is mounted onto the cap.

At the base of the pillar, the conduit for the light fixture was buried in thebase course. The installer noted that you can also notch the base courseblock to achieve an outlet for the conduit.

USING ANCHOR WALL SYSTEMS PRODUCTS IN WATER FEATURESAnchor retaining wall products can be used in many ways to complement waterfeatures.

• As the retaining wall built around streams or facing a pond.

• To build a slope needed for a waterfall.

• To support a stream or bog.

If your wall is supporting a water feature:

Determine the load on the wall. If the wall is more than 4' (1.2m) high, consult a wall engineer to design the wall using geosynthetic reinforcement.

Like building a retaining wall, a successful pond project begins with the buildingof the base using high-quality liners.

For best results use a 45 mil EPDM rubber liner.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing the liner, which mightinclude covering the liner with boulders and gravel, which prevents UV lightfrom degrading the liner.

If your wall is in contact with water, refer to the instructions for water applications on page 22.

If you have a special application or project you've completed using Anchor Wall Systems retaining wall products, please send a photo and description of theproject to: Anchor Wall Systems, Attn: Landscape Market Manager, 5959 BakerRoad, Suite 390, Minnetonka, MN 55345.

26

Reinforcement Estimating Chart Detail shown is conceptual only, and should not be used for construction without the seal of a local professional engineer.

These estimating charts were developed for use with the following reinforcements: Mirafi 2XT or stronger, Huesker 30or stronger, Strata 150 or stronger, Synteen SF 20 or stronger, and Raugrid 3/3 or stronger.

27



28



29

Materials Quantity Estimator for Anchor Highland Stone® and Diamond®

(In Cubic Yards)

Wall Length

Leveling pad: an aggregate leveling pad is made of a good, compactible base material of 3/4" minus with fines.

Wall Length

Drainage: use drainage aggregate that is clean, 1" minus crushed stone or granular fill.

**To convert cubic yards to tons: multiply cubic yards by 1.6 ( Y cubic yards x 1.6 = Z tons)

For metric estimating charts, contact Anchor Wall Systems at 1-877-295-5415 or outside the U.S. +1 952-933-8855.

Material: 3/4" with fines

5' 6' 7' 8' 9' 10' 11' 12' 13' 14' 15' 20' 25' 30' 35' 40' 45' 50'

0.19

0.28

0.37

0.46

0.56

0.65

0.74

0.22

0.33

0.44

0.56

0.67

0.78

0.89

0.26

0.39

0.52

0.65

0.78

0.91

1.04

0.30

0.44

0.59

0.74

0.89

1.04

1.19

0.33

0.50

0.67

0.83

1.00

1.17

1.33

0.37

0.56

0.74

0.93

1.11

1.30

1.48

0.41

0.61

0.81

1.02

1.22

1.43

1.63

0.44

0.67

0.89

1.11

1.33

1.56

1.78

0.48

0.72

0.96

1.20

1.44

1.69

1.93

0.52

0.78

1.04

1.30

1.56

1.81

2.07

0.56

0.83

1.11

1.39

1.65

1.94

2.22

0.74

1.11

1.48

1.85

2.22

2.59

2.96

0.93

1.39

1.85

2.31

2.78

3.24

3.70

1.11

1.67

2.22

2.78

3.33

3.89

4.44

1.30

1.94

2.59

3.24

3.89

4.54

5.19

1.48

2.22

2.96

3.70

4.44

5.19

5.93

1.67

2.50

3.33

4.17

5.00

5.83

6.67

1.85

2.78

3.70

4.63

5.56

6.48

7.41

Wall HeightIncludes Buried Course

1'

1.5'

2'

2.5'

3'

3.5'

4'

5' 6' 7' 8' 9' 10' 11' 12' 13' 14' 15' 20' 25' 30' 35' 40' 45' 50'

0.20 0.23 0.27 0.32 0.35 0.39 0.43 0.46 0.50 0.55 0.59 0.78 0.98 1.17 1.37 1.55 1.75 1.94

Product Quantity Estimator for Anchor Highland Stone®

To use: locate wall length and wall height to identify number of 18", 12", and 6" wide units needed.

5' 10' 15' 20' 25' 30' 35' 40' 45' 50'

Diamond® Caps

6 – 18" 2 – 12" 2 – 6"

8 – 18"4 – 12"4 – 6"

9 – 18"5 – 12"5 – 6"

11 – 18"7 – 12"7 – 6"

13 – 18"9 – 12"9 – 6"

14 – 18"10 – 12"10 – 6"

16 – 18"12 – 12"12 – 6"

11 – 18"4 – 12"4 – 6"

14 – 18"7 – 12"7 – 6"

17 – 18"10 – 12"10 – 6"

21 – 18"14 – 12"14 – 6"

24 – 18"17 – 12"17 – 6"

27 – 18"20 – 12"20 – 6"

31 – 18"24 – 12"24 – 6"

15 – 18"5 – 12"5 – 6"

20 – 18"10 – 12"10 – 6"

25 – 18"15 – 12"15 – 6"

30 – 18"20 – 12"20 – 6"

35 – 18"25 – 12"25 – 6"

40 – 18"30 – 12"30 – 6"

45 – 18"35 – 12"35 – 6"

21 – 18"7 – 12"7 – 6"

28 – 18"14 – 12"14 – 6"

34 – 18"20 – 12"20 – 6"

41 – 18"27 – 12"27 – 6"

48 – 18"34 – 12"34 – 6"

54 – 18"40 – 12"40 – 6"

61 – 18"47 – 12"47 – 6"

26 – 18"9 – 12"9 – 6"

34 – 18"17 – 12"17 – 6"

42 – 18"25 – 12"25 – 6"

51 – 18"34 – 12"34 – 6"

59 – 18"42 – 12"42 – 6"

67 – 18"50 – 12"50 – 6"

76 – 18"59 – 12"59 – 6"

30 – 18"10 – 12"10 – 6"

40 – 18"20 – 12"20 – 6"

50 – 18"30 – 12"30 – 6"

60 – 18"40 – 12"40 – 6"

70 – 18"50 – 12"50 – 6"

80 – 18"60 – 12"60 – 6"

90 – 18"70 – 12"70 – 6"

36 – 18"12 – 12"12 – 6"

48 – 18"24 – 12"24 – 6"

59 – 18"35 – 12"35 – 6"

71 – 18"47 – 12"47 – 6"

83 – 18"59 – 12"59 – 6"

94 – 18"70 – 12"70 – 6"

106 – 18"82 – 12"82 – 6"

41 – 18"14 – 12"14 – 6"

54 – 18"27 – 12"27 – 6"

67 – 18"40 – 12"40 – 6"

81 – 18"54 – 12"54 – 6"

94 – 18"67 – 12"67 – 6"

107 – 18"80 – 12"80 – 6"

121 – 18"94 – 12"94 – 6"

53 – 18"23 – 12"23 – 6"

60 – 18"30 – 12"30 – 6"

75 – 18"45 – 12"45 – 6"

90 – 18"60 – 12"60 – 6"

105 – 18"75 – 12"75 – 6"

120 – 18"90 – 12"90 – 6"

135 – 18"105 – 12"105 – 6"

51 – 18"17 – 12"17 – 6"

68 – 18"34 – 12"34 – 6"

84 – 18"50 – 12"50 – 6"

101 – 18"67 – 12"67 – 6"

118 – 18"84 – 12"84 – 6"

134 – 18"100 – 12"100 – 6"

151 – 18"117 – 12"117 – 6"

1: Identify Wall Length

Identify Wall HeightIncludes Buried Base*

1'

1.5'

2'

2.5'

3'

3.5'

4'

Estimating by Square Feet of Wall:

Number of each unit (18", 12", 6") needed:Does NOT include base course.

5 9 13 17 21 25 29 33 37 41

20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 200 300 400

14 17 20 24 27 30 34 37 40 44 47 50 54 57 60 64 67 134 201 268

*Note: these numbers include a buried base course of 18" wide Anchor Highland Stone units.

An estimating chart is also available in Microsoft® Excel. To obtain a copy, contact Anchor Wall Systems.

How many cap units do I need?Convert total linear feet to inches and divide by 14.5 to estimate the number of caps you’ll need. (For example: 20’ wall = 240" divided by 14.5 = 17 cap units.)

30

Product Quantity Estimator for Anchor Diamond® – Straight-Face UnitsTo use: locate wall length and wall height to identify number of Diamond units needed.

5' 10' 15' 20' 25' 30' 35' 40' 45' 50'

Diamond® Caps

7

10

14

17

21

24

28

14

21

28

35

42

49

56

21

31

42

52

63

73

83

28

42

56

69

83

97

111

35

52

69

87

104

122

139

42

63

83

104

125

146

167

49

73

97

122

146

170

194

56

83

111

139

167

194

222

63

94

125

156

188

219

250

69

104

139

174

208

243

278


2: Identify Wall Height

Includes Buried Course

1’ (2 Courses) *

1.5’ (3 Courses) *

2’ (4 Courses) *

2.5’ (5 Courses) *

3’ (6 Courses) *

3.5’ (7 Courses) *

4’ (8 Courses) *

Estimating by Square Footage of Wall:

Number of each unit needed:Does NOT include base course. **

5 9 13 17 21 25 29 33 37 41

20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 200 300 400

28 35 42 49 56 63 70 77 84 91 98 105 112 119 126 133 139 278 418 557

*Note: These numbers include a buried base course.

**Formula: multiply square footage of wall by 1.39130.

Product Quantity Estimator for Anchor Diamond® – Beveled-Face UnitsTo use: locate wall length and wall height to identify number of Diamond units needed.

5' 10' 15' 20' 25' 30' 35' 40' 45' 50'

7

11

15

19

22

26

30

15

22

30

37

45

52

60

22

34

45

56

67

78

90

30

45

60

75

90

104

119

37

56

75

93

112

131

149

45

67

90

112

134

157

179

52

78

104

131

157

183

209

60

90

119

149

179

209

239

67

101

134

168

201

235

269

75

112

149

187

224

261

299


2: Identify Wall Height

Includes Buried Base

1’ (2 Courses) *

1.5’ (3 Courses) *

2’ (4 Courses) *

2.5’ (5 Courses) *

3’ (6 Courses) *

3.5’ (7 Courses) *

4’ (8 Courses) *

Estimating by Square Footage of Wall:

Number of each unit needed:Does NOT include base course. **

5 9 13 17 21 25 29 33 37 41

20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 200 300 400

30 38 45 49 60 68 75 83 90 98 105 113 120 128 135 143 150 300 450 600

*Note: These numbers include the base course numbers noted above.

**Formula: multiply square footage of wall by 1.5

Diamond® Caps

HIGHLAND STONE JUMPER ESTIMATING WORKSHEETTo adjust Anchor Highland Stone® block quantities to include jumper units, use this worksheet.

STEP ONE: Initial unit count

A. Units required: (see page 29):

18" units ______________ total*

For base course _____________Total number of 18" units – number of 12" units.

For wall ___________________Total number of 18" units – number of units needed for base course. Should be the same quantity as your 12" and 6" units.

12" units ______________

6" units _______________

B. Each piece of Highland Stone (one 18", 12" and 6" unit) used in your wall (not including the base course) = a 1.5 square feet set.This wall has _____________________________ sets. c, d, and e should be the same number. Use this number.

C. _________________ sets x 1.5 square feet = _________________ square feet of Highland Stone sets required(without jumper units or base course).

STEP TWO: Add the jumper unit count

A. Circle the desired density of jumper units in the wall.

Every 3 square feet Every 6 square feet Every 9 square feet Every 12 square feet

B. __________________ square feet of wall (without jumper units or base course) /

__________________ jumper units per square feet = __________________ jumper units

C. __________________ jumper units x __________________ square feet per jumper unit =

__________________ total square feet of jumper units in wall.

STEP THREE: Adjust the quantity of Highland Stone units

A. __________________ square feet of Highland Stone sets – ___________ square feet of jumper units =

__________________ new square feet required for Highland Stone sets.

B. __________ / 1.5 = __________ sets of Highland Stone units. (set = one 18", 12" and 6" unit)

STEP FOUR: What do I order?

18" __________ units units for the wall__________ units for the base course Cap units _____ units (see page 29)

= __________ units12" __________ units6" __________ unitsJumper __________ units

© 2004 Anchor Wall Systems, Inc. 5959 Baker Road, Suite 390, Minnetonka, MN 55345-5995 USA. For more information call us toll-free in the U.S. at 1-800-473-4452. Outside the U.S. call +1-952-933-8855 or visit www.anchorwall.com.

a

b

c

d

e

f

f g

g

h

h

k

b

i

g i

j

j

3 6 9 12

.50Choose and circle one.

© 2004 Anchor Wall Systems, Inc. 5959 Baker Road, Suite 390, Minnetonka, MN 55345-5995 USA.

For more information call us toll-free in the U.S. at 1-800-473-4452.Outside the U.S. call +1-952-933-8855 or visit www.anchorwall.com.

Quantity Material Cost Per Total Cost

Anchor Product:

Anchor cap

Anchor step

Reinforcement

Drain pipe

Base: 3/4” minus fines

Backfill: 1” minus

Concrete adhesive

Filter Fabric

Subtotal

Tax X%

Materials Total

Loads – Delivery Charge

Offloading Charge

Delivery Total

TOTAL $

Hourly Crew Cost* $ (wages+benefits)

Total Crew Size ÷ people

Average Labor Cost per Hour = $

Estimated Average Labor Hours Labor Cost Per Hour Total Cost

Install Leveling Pad

Install Drainage Rock and Pipe

Install Geogrid

Install Wall Units

Install Backfill Materials

Install Capping Units

Install Filter Fabric

Clean Up

TOTAL LABORPROJECT COSTS $

Materials QuantityHow much material you’ll need. Don't forget loading and offloading.

Subcontractors

Calculating LaborDetermine who will do what. Factor in difficulty of the job, time of year, etc.

Subcontractor Cost Total Cost

Engineer

TOTAL $

EquipmentCost

Days Equipment Per Day Total Cost

Forklift/Bobcat

Compactor

Small Tools

Transit/Truck

TOTAL $

Estimating OverheadOverhead percentage means taking last year’s cost of doing business andprojecting that cost to reflect the current year. This number varies (itcould be 5% to 15% or more). You don’t have to apply overhead costs toall these items.

Category Cost Overhead % Total Cost

Materials

Labor

Equipment

Subcontractors

TOTAL $

Estimating ProfitYour desired profit after taxes. This is what you work for, so make sure youfactor it in!

Category Cost Overhead % Total

Materials Total

Labor Total

Equipment Total

Subcontractor Total

% profit

TOTAL PROJECT ESTIMATE $Cost Per Square Foot (Project Cost ÷ Square Feet) $

Follow this worksheet to accurately bid your next job with profit in mind.

Calculating Average Labor Cost Per Hour

Calculating Hourly Crew CostAdd:Foreman $ /hr (wage + benefits)Second $ /hrLaborer $ /hrCrew Cost = $ /hr

1 3

4

5

6

2

*

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GLOSSARY OF COMMONLY USED TERMS

BatterThe facing angle created by SRW unit setback, measured from a vertical linedrawn from the toe of the wall. The batter on both Anchor Diamond andHighland Stone is 10.6˚.

Crest SlopeAngle of the soil above the wall usually expressed as a ratio such as 3:1 (3' horizontal to 1' vertical).

Drain rockDrainage fill placed within and immediately behind the SRW units, and in otherareas for drainage.

Foundation SoilThe soil which supports the leveling pad and the reinforced soil zone of a soil-reinforced SRW system.

GeogridA synthetic material formed into a grid-like structure for use in soil reinforcement.Usually comprised of polypropylene, polyester or polyethylene.

GeosyntheticA generic term used to describe synthetic or plastic materials used in soil, suchas fabrics, geogrids, drainage composites and erosion control mats.

GeotextileA textile-like material used in soil drainage and reinforcement applications.Usually comprised of polypropylene or polyester, it can be woven or nonwoven.

Global stabilityResistance to overall mass movement of the SRW system in a circular or slidingmode. May be a problem with tiered walls, walls with weak foundation soils, andwalls with a slope at the top or bottom.

GradeGround level.

Infill Soil located behind the SRW units and drainage fill. May be reinforced with soilreinforcement.

Leveling padThe level surface (gravel or concrete) used to distribute the weight of the dry-stacked column of SRW units over a wider foundation area and to provide a working surface during construction. The pad is typically constructed with free draining granular soil to facilitate compaction and drainage.

OverturningAn external stability failure mechanism of an SRW whereby lateral externalforces cause the entire reinforced soil mass to rotate about the base.

Permeable A soil that allows water to move through it at an appreciable rate.

Proctor (density)A method for determining the moisture-density relationship in soils subjected to compaction.

Reinforced soil zoneThe area of a soil-reinforced SRW which contains the soil reinforcement.

Retained soilThe undisturbed soil for cut walls or the common backfill soil compacted behind infill soils.

Sliding An external and internal stability failure mechanism of an SRW whereby lateral external forces cause the entire soil mass to slide forward along its base or internally along a particular layer of soil reinforcement.

SurchargeExternal load, usually applied at the top of an SRW. A roadway or building foundation can be a surcharge.

S.R.W.Segmental retaining wall.

SwaleA small ditch or depression formed on top and behind the SRW system to collectwater and carry it away.

Toe Slope Angle of the soil in front of the wall usually expressed as a ratio such as 3:1 (3' horizontal to 1' vertical).

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What is backfill?The material used to fill the excavated area behind the wall. This can sometimesbe the original excavated soil. We recommend using 3/4" (19mm) minus aggregatewith no fine lines as your backfill material.

What is the base?The area in which you will lay your first course of block. We suggest using 3/4"(19mm) minus aggregate fines as your base material.

What are fines? The smaller particles of aggregate.

How do I prepare my base?Lay 24" (610mm) of compactible aggregate (sand and gravel) in the bottom of the trench and compact. We recommend using 3/4" (19mm) minusaggregate with fines as your base material and the use of a plate compactor to compact.

Do I really have to bury the first course?Yes! Compacting the base and burying and leveling the first course are necessaryfor a long-lasting, beautiful wall.

What colors are available?Contact your local dealer or licensed manufacturer to find out what colors areavailable in your area.

What is compaction/and how do I compact?Compressing or densifying the soil material used for the base and backfill. Use a manual or self-propelled compactor.

What is a course?The horizontal layers of blocks used to build a wall.

What is drainage aggregate?The material used to refill the void between the back of the block and the nativesoil. It is recommended aggregate be placed directly behind the blocks andacceptable native (original) soil be used for the remaining void.

What is a gravity wall?A wall that resists the forces of soil through the weight and batter of the segmental retaining wall unit.

How high can I build my wall under ideal soil conditions without geosynthetic reinforcement?Highland: 4' (1.2m), which includes a buried base course.Diamond: 4' (1.2m), which includes a buried base course.

What is running bond?A staggered vertical alignment used to create a consistent pattern. It may benecessary to utilize split or partial units to maintain a running bond.

Can I build multiple terraced walls in order to stay at or under the maximum wall height?Terracing is one method of retaining areas with a total wall height greater than 4' (1.2m). The site of the second wall should be located behind the first wall at adistance of at least, or greater than, two times the height of the first wall, underideal soil conditions. By using this method, the weight of the second wall hasvery little to no bearing on the first wall. This method should be used only ifeach wall does not exceed 4' (1.2m).

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In the United States, Anchor Wall Systems products are sold only by licensed Anchor Wall Systems producers and are backed by a Limited Warranty. For complete INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, refer to the Anchor Wall Systems Estimating and Installation Manual, Installation Guide Video, or contact your local Anchor licensed manufacturer, or Anchor Wall Systems. For a complete copy of the Anchor Wall Systems Warranty, visit your local distributor or manufacturer or contact Anchor WallSystems at 1-877-295-5415 or www.anchorwall.com. ©2004 Anchor Wall Systems, Inc. 5959 Baker Road, Suite 390, Minnetonka, MN 55345-5995 USA. For more information call us toll-free in the U.S. at 1-800-473-4452. Outside the U.S. call +1-952-933-8855 or visit www.anchorwall.com.

Anchor Wall Systems, Highland Stone, Diamond, and the ‘A’ logo are trademarks of Anchor Wall Systems, Inc. These products are sold by licensed Anchor Wall Systems producers and are protected by U.S. patent nos.D464145; 5,294,216; 5,827,015; 6,183,168; 6,312,197; 6,142,713; 6,321,740; 6,312,197. Australian patent no. 684211. Canadian patent no. 2,019,033. Other U.S. and International patents pending.

HD501 06/04 10M

Retaining walls are beautiful, functional – and profitable, too! Adding a landscape retaining wall can increasea home's property value up to 15 percent.

Estimating and Installation Manual - Willamette Graystone

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