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Step by Step construction

instruction.

A complete bill of materials.

Exploded view and elevation

drawings.

How-to photos with instructive

captions.

Tips to help you complete the

project and become a betterwoodworker.

To download these plans,you will need Adobe Reader

installed on your computer. If you want to geta free copy, you can get it at: Adobe Reader.

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WJ034

Americas leading woodworking authority

Fold-Down Bed

Published inWoodworkers Journal From Shop to Home: EssenProjects, Tips and Techniques for Todays Home Woodworker

WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL

2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Published inWoodworkers Journal From Shop to Home: Essent

Projects, Tips and Techniques for Todays Home Woodworker

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150 HOME PROJECTS

WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL 2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


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SPACE-SAVING FOLD-DOWN BED 151

Looking at a typical fold-down bed

system can be pretty daunting. There

are springs and cables everywhere,

adjustments and counter adjustments,

levers and wires, and from every angle

the contraption just looks confusing

and difficult to assemble. Its little

wonder that some clever people came

up with a better alternative. The fold-

down bed hardware we discovered

for this project has been in use in the

hotel industry for years, but it was only

recently introduced to the general

public. The heart of the system is a

piston, which controls the swing speed

of the bed as its opened or closed.

The piston is fully enclosed, simple to

This project will take you about 5 days to

complete and it requires standard shop tools

only. The joinery consists of mortise and

tenons, dowel or biscuits, and screwed butt

joints. The recommended finishes are lacquer

or polyurethane. Four sheets of 3/4" red oak plywood

50 board feet of 3/4" red oak

15 board feet of 134" red oak



14 board feet of 3/4" poplar

50 feet of red oak edge banding

Fold-Down Bed Hardware available

at Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

800-610-0883

Planning Ahead:

The Fold-Down Bed Project

install and maintenance free.

The trouble with most of these

fold-down beds is that, while they

save space in a room, theyre not real

useful when theyre not being slept in.

That was the design challenge. We

think having a drop leaf desk to use

when you dont have company is the

perfect solution!

Without a doubt, this is a large

plywood project, and there are several

steps when a second set of hands will

be helpful. In addition to your helpers,

make sure the project will fit through

the door of your shop when its done.

Thinking ahead on both counts will save

you from pounds worth of frustration.

Space-SavingFold-Down Bed

Afold-down bed is already a great space-saver, but now, with our drop leaf desk

addition, you get two projects in one. Heres the perfect solution for that small guest

bedroom that doubles as a sewing room, or in the bedroom of a college student home for

the summer months.

Figure 1: To apply pressure-sensitive edgebanding, just peal back the protective paperand press it onto the plywood with a firm roller.You can also buy iron-on edge tape that works

just as well.



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Cabinet Exploded View

31/4"

1

13

12

14

Front Panels & Ribbing Details

L-bracketsL-brackets L-brackets

Three additional supports

(3/4" x 2 5/16" x 6") should be spacedevenly across the top opening.

4"

481/2"

1"

1"

3/4"

Center 2 1/4" wide x 3 1/4" highopenings on seam for foot hardware.

9 9

9

The plywood overlaps accommodate bed frame (pieces 3,4 & 5).

121/2"

43

11/2"

11/2"

1/2"

1/2"

3/4"

31

/4"

63/4"

11

42

Foot & TopSupport Detail

21/4"

5 "

21/2"

343/4"

1

2

1

9

13

14

Front Panels &Ribbing Details

Column Groove Details

152 HOME PROJECTS

24 23

30

29

3/16"

1/4"

1/4"

1/4"

3/4"

3/8"

Routing the columngrooves is the key to

each of the cabinetside assemblies.

Once the 1/4"-deep by3/8"-wide grooves are

cut, all the plywoodpanels fall into place.



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45

29

27

26

30

34 35

3138

Cabinet Details

553/4"

621/2"

MATERIAL LIST Fold-down Bed

T x W x L

1 Front Outside Panels (2) 3/4" x 1614" x 5534"

2 Front Middle Panel (1) 3/4" x 4412" x 2812"

3 Bed Frame Ends (2) 3/4" x 6" x 54"

4 Bed Frame Side (1) 3/4" x 6" x 7612"

5 Bed Frame Side (1) 3/4" x 8" x 7612"

6 Plywood Banding (1) 13/16" x 50'

7 Screws (1) #8-2" (bag of 100)

8 Plugs (1) 3/8" face grain

9 Ribbing (9) 3/4" x 112" x 96"

10 Screws (1) #8-114" (bag of 100)

11 Feet (2) 3/4" x 3" x 634"

12 Fold Down Bed Hardware (1)

13 Desk Framing (1) 3/4" x 214" x 142"

14 Filler Strip (1) 1/2" x 214" x 4412"

15 Desk (1) 3/4" x 43" x 2034"

16 Desk Supports (2) 3/4" x 6" x 20"

Building the Bed Box

Due to the special needs of the hardware installation,

the bed box must be built first, and then the cabinet can bebuilt around it. This seems awkward, but if you dont follow

this sequence youll end up with two boxes that wont fit

together properly.

Begin by cutting plywood to size for the bed box

(see Plywood Cutting Diagrams above). Cut plywood for

the front panels (pieces 1 and 2), then cut solid stock for

the bed frame ends and sides (pieces 3 through 5).

For help with alignment, use dowels or biscuits to

join the three front panels together. Drill or cut the joints,

depending on the method you prefer, then glue the three

panels edge to edge as shown in the drawing on the facing

page. For clamping these large assemblies we bought

seven-foot-long pipes to use with our pipe clamp fixtures.

Clean up any glue squeeze-out, then apply pressure-

sensitive edge banding (pieces 6) to all but the desk

opening edges of the assembly (see Figure 1). Trim the

excess banding off with a mill file.

With the front panel joined together, lay out the two

feet openings as shown in the Elevation Drawing, and cut

them with a jigsaw after drilling access holes in the corners

for inserting the saw blade.

Join the four pieces of the bed frame with counter-

bored screws (pieces 7), lapping the end pieces over the

side pieces. Fill the counterbores with oak plugs (pieces 8)

and drill holes in the ends for installing the bed hardware

brackets (see Elevation Drawing on the top of page 152).

The ribbing (pieces 9), which reinforces the bed box to

give it rigidity, is made with plywood scraps and secondary

wood. Rip 112"-wide strips for all the pieces, then glue and

screw some of them into L-brackets for the vertical ribs.

Now build a ribbing framework to fit inside the bed frame,

countersinking screws (pieces 7) to hold it together. Once

25 25

2323 28

32

27

26

2

16

11 39

15

46

47

Plywood Cutting Guide



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Cabinet Exploded View

154 HOME PROJECTS

113/4"

105/8"

95/8"

This measurementis to the

hardwarespivot point.

21/2"

5"

21/2"5

3/4"

8"1"

1"

1"

1"

Drill3/4" lock hole 1"from bottom edge of rail.

13"

MATERIAL LIST Fold-down Bed

T x W x L

17 Desk Rail (1) 3/4" x 334" x 43"

18 Cam Lock (1) 3/4" cylinder

19 Dowels (2) 1/4" Dia. x 114"

20 Desk Hinge (1) 112" x 43"

21 Desk Support Hinges (2) 112" x 6"

22 Desk Stops (2) 3/4" x 138" x 138"

23 Sides (2) 3/4" x 1512" x 61"

24 Upper Mounting Plates (2) 3/4" x 1434" x 534"

25 Lower Mounting Plates (2) 3/4" x 1434" x 3434"

26 Upper Brace (1) 3/4" x 53

4" x 841

2"27 Lower Brace (1) 3/4" x 3434" x 8412"

28 Top (1) 3/4" x 1638" x 86"

29 Columns (2) 134" x 5" x 61"

30 Top Rail (1) 3/4" x 212" x 7778"

31 Baseboard (1) 3/4" x 234" x 7778"

32 Stiffeners (8) 3/4" x 234" x 141116"

T x W x L

33 Caps (4) 3/4" x 312" x 1538"

34 Top Edging (1) 3/4" x 338" x 140"

35 Front Trim Molding (1) 3/4" x 314" x 96"

36 Side Trim Moldings (2) 3/4" x 314" x 20"

37 Side Moldings (4) 1/2" x 338" x 16"

38 Base Shoe (1) 1/2" x 3/4" x 7778"

39 Baseboard Backer (1) 3/4" x 212" x 7778"

40 Bolster Blocks (2) 114" x 258" x 3"

41 Rails and Stiles (6) 1/4" x 2"x 96"

42 Top Supports (2) 13

4" x 3" x 21

2"43 Top Supports (2) 3/4" x 3" x 314"

44 Small Squares (14) 114" x 114" x 6"

45 Large Squares (6) 134" x 134" x 6"

46 Inside Panel (1) 3/4" x 48" x 75"

47 Inside Panel (1) 3/4" x 6" x 75"



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the framework is built slip it into the bed

frame and screw (pieces 10) the two

subassemblies together.

Securing the bed frame and ribbing

to the front panel assembly is a big job

that requires two people. First lay the

panel face-side down on the floor, then

position the bed frame on it to drill your

pilot holes. Make sure the frame is flush

with the bottom edge of the panel and

exposes a 1/4" plywood reveal at each

end. Next, turn over the frame and

spread glue on all its bottom edges,

then reposition the frame on the panel

and drive the screws (pieces 10).

Attending to More Bed Box Details

With the basic bed box made, now

you can take care of several small

details before moving on to the cabinet

construction. Cut the feet (pieces 11) to

size and chamfer the edges as shown

in the drawing on page 152. Next,

install the special hinges that come with

the fold-down hardware (pieces 12).

Center the hinges in the feet holes and

screw them to the ribbing above (see

Figure 2). Now, bore a 3/8" hole

through the ribbing and the bed frame

for each locking pin. Complete the

hinge installation by having a helper

hold the feet in position on the front

panel while you secure the hinges.

(Note: See the hardware instructions for

more on the hinge and feet installation).

For a finished look, frame the desk

3/16"

34

2945

45

V-Bit groove

5

Top Moulding Detail

17

18

16

15

41

1

2

1 4

11

4346

47

3

38 31

39

29

32

45

37

23

33

37

36

40

30

35

34

3/4"

1/8"

28

42

12

25

23

24

6

26

26

44

27



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15"

156 HOME PROJECTS

opening

with oak boards

(pieces 13), however, firstinstall a 1/2"-thick scrapwood filler

strip (piece 14) in the space at the

bottom of the opening so all the frame

pieces will come out even. After gluing

in the filler strip, cut the frame stock

to length and glue them around the

opening. Use finish nails to hold the

stock while the glue sets.

Now cut plywood for the desk

(piece 15) and desk supports (pieces

16). Once you have stock for the desk

supports cut out, bandsaw them to

shape following the guidelines in Figure

3. Clean up the edges and apply pres-

sure-sensitive edge banding to all the

support edges, as well as to the top

and side edges of the desk. For the

bottom edge of the desk, glue on a

protective oak rail (piece 17). When the

glue is dry, center a 3/4"-diameter hole

(see Elevation Drawing on page 154)

for the cam lock (piece 18).

Pinning the desk supports to

the desk will keep these pieces from

sagging while you write (see Figure 3).

Glue the pins (pieces 19) into a 1"-deep

hole in each support, then in a few

minutes, when the desk and supports

are installed in the bed, drill 3/8"-deep

holes in the underside of the desk to

align with the pins.

The desk and desk supports are

secured in the bed

box opening with

piano hinges. Use a

hack saw to cut the long

piano hinge into three sections (pieces

20 and 21), then screw the hinges to

the appropriate edge of each plywood

piece. With the help of a friend, hold the

desk in the bed box opening and drillpilot holes for the hinge (in the closed

position the desk should be flush with

the front panel assembly). Secure the

desk, then do the same thing with the

supports, which should be positioned

2" from the bed box opening wall and

hold the desk level with the floor. Wrap

up this step by drilling the pin holes in

the underside of the desk.

Glue the desk stops (pieces 22) in

the lower corners of the desk opening

and cut a biscuit slot for the lock arm

to swing into.

Constructing the Cabinet

Just as with the bed box, begin

building the cabinet by cutting the ply-

wood parts (pieces 23 through 28). Be

sure to cut notches in the upper brace

as shown in Figure 4. Once the ply-

wood is cut, rip 134"-thick oak for the

front columns (pieces 29) and some3/4" oak for the top rail (pieces 30)

and baseboard (piece 31).

The columns join the mounting

plates, the sides, the top rail and the

baseboard with tongue and groove

joints. Following the Elevation Drawing

on page 152, rout 1/4"-deep grooves

in the columns with a 3/8" straight bit

and a straight edge guide. After routing

these grooves, rout a V-groove on the

front of each column.

The tongues on all the plywoodpieces should be cut flush to their back

side, while the top rail and baseboard

have centered tongues. To cut all the

tongues use a 1/4" dado blade, and be

sure to clamp a wood face to your table

saw fence to protect it from the blade

during this operation.

Now glue the plywood pieces to

the columns and cut stiffeners (pieces

32) to butt-glue between each mounting

plate and the sides. Note: The upper

mounting plates should stick out above

the columns by 3/4", and this will be

covered by the trim moulding later on.

The stiffeners are just butt-glued into

place. Once each side assembly is

joined, drill the bracket installation

holes in the lower mounting plates

(see Elevation Drawing at right).

Install the brackets on the lower

mounting plates and on the ends of the

bed frame, and give your friend a holler.

With help, place the cabinet side

assemblies against the bed frame and

hook up the hardware, then glue the

top rail to the columns. Using long

clamps to hold everything together,

position the braces and drill counter-

bored pilot holes for mounting them to

the cabinet. Spread glue on all these

butt joints and screw the pieces down.

Fill the counterbores with oak plugs and

Figure 3:The bottom edge ofeach desk supporttapers 10, and thefront end is cut at

45. After bandingall the edges of thesupports, install a1/4"-diameter x 114"-

long locking pin inthe top edge ofeach support.

Figure 2: Secure each special hinge to theribbing and drill a hole so the locking pinpasses through the frame to hold the bed inthe closed position.



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sand them flush. Next, cut the cavity

caps (pieces 33) and glue them to

cover the ends of each cavity, using afew finishing nails to hold them in place

while the glue dries. Wrap up this step

by applying pressure-sensitive banding

to the exposed edges of the braces.

Rout all the molding (pieces 34

through 38) using the bits shown in the

drawings on page 152. On narrow

molding like the base shoe, its always

best to rout the edge of a wider board

first, then rip the molded edge off after-

ward. Miter the edging and glue it to

the top, and miter the trim mouldingto length and construct a three-sided

frame using biscuits to strengthen the

corners. Position the trim moulding

frame on top of the cabinet so it slips

into the notches and screw it to the

pieces below. Next, position the top on

the trim moulding frame and secure it

with counterbored screws. Fill the holes

with oak plugs, then glue and nail the

side molding to the cabinet sides.

Since the baseboard is long and

slender, reinforce it with a backer strip

(piece 39) made from scrap. Glue the

backer behind the baseboard to form

an L-bracket. After the glue dries, tip

the carcase back a bit to glue the base-

board assembly into the grooves in the

columns, then install the base shoe.

Complete the cabinet construction

by installing the pistons and connecting

them to the bed frame, then install the

stops supplied with the hardware kit

(see Figure 5). Once the stops are in, glue

bolster blocks (pieces 40) to the inside of

the top rail where the locking pins are

located. These blocks bear against the

locking pins to keep the bed closed tight.

Completing the Cabinet Face

The work remaining on project is

mostly decorative. Rip plenty of 1/4"

stock for the rails and stiles (pieces 41),

then cut the pieces to fit on the cabinet

as shown in the Exploded Drawing on

page 155. Once theyre cut to length,

rout a shallow V-groove in the center of

the appropriate pieces, then glue and

nail the pieces to the front panels. Cut

the decorative supports (pieces 42 and

43) as well and glue them to the box

above the feet.

The squares (pieces 44 and 45)

can be made easily on the table saw.

Rip seven pieces of 114" x 114" x 6" oak

stock, and three pieces of 134" x 134" x 6"

oak, then tilt the saw blade 10 to cut

both ends of each piece into a pyramid

(see Elevation Drawings on page 154).

Next, cut off the squares and fasten them

to the front of the cabinet with epoxy.The final plywood panels are for

the inside skin of the bed (pieces 46

and 47). Cut the pieces and secure

them to the ribbing with counterbored

screws, then plug the holes and sand

them flush.

Believe it or not, the time has come

to sand and finish the fold-down bed.

Sand the entire project to 180 grit and

ease all the sharp edges. We finished

the project with Watco natural stain,

then sprayed it with lacquer. Be sureto wear a respirator when spraying lac-

quer. If you dont have spray equipment

use a brush-on lacquer, like Deft, or

choose a polyurethane varnish instead.

After the finishing is complete, rein-

stall the desk pieces and the hardware.

Now get lots of help to move this heavy

load into position and, once in place, be

sure to screw the carcase to the studs

in your wall with long deck screws.

Using the BedYoull find that once the mattress is

installed this bed hardware is easy to

use and trouble free. The weight of the

mattress equalizes the swing speed of

the mechanism and reduces the effort

needed to open the bed. Youll also

notice how different the hardware looks

from the kind of fold-down contraptions

youve seen in the past. With this hard-

ware you can rest easytheres no

danger of reenacting a Laurel and

Hardy routine where they end up

squished against the wall when their

bed unexpectedly swings closed.

Figure 5: The stops should be screwed tothe upper mounting plates to keep the bed

box flush with the front of the cabinet.

Figure 4: In its closed position, the special

hinge locks the bed to the cabinet. Pullingout the foot will release the lock and allowyou to open the bed.

40

4

42

43

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