Essentials Magazine Mid-Summer 2010

issue 16 mid-summer 2010 www.essentialsmagazine.com.au

Price: FREEat selected tourist outlets in Australia

12-month subscription $24.95

VINCENTMasterpieces from Paris

Adventurous HeartSam Miranda’s King Valley cellar door

Plus: Paris Secrets, Canberra Cool, Bogong Village, Bridge Road Brewers

4 It’s not only about quality of materials andmanufacture.

Wilko Cabinets Pty Ltd. - Adventurous Living

Ww i l k o c a b i n e t s

It’s not only about quality of materials and manufacture.

It’s innovative design to suit the specific requirements of the site.4

This house was always going to be an interesting project. It’s a curved house designed to take in views from the Warby Ranges, featuring clean, modern lines and materials, contrasted with stone masonry. The professional couple wanted cabinetry for their entire house, including their own individual offices. It would have been inconceivable to treat each element as a separate project, and not acknowledge the architectural and onsite design considerations.

In the kitchen, the bench fits seamlessly into the window design. Bench tops respond to the architectural stonework, while the high-gloss surfaces capture and reflect natural light. We carefully selected colours to meld with the house and landscape beyond. The drinks bar is concealed behind retractable doors and utilises a small space. It was purpose-created to integrate a wine storage refrigerator, and is made from recycled Red Stringybark. Draw handles were avoided, because simplicity was the key. The offices feature angular bookcases that are shaped to the curvature of the building, and while their designs mirror one another, different materials reflect the taste of each individual. Throughout the house as a whole, materials and detailing are integrated, creating a sense of unity and flow.

If the idea of unique design suited to your individual requirements, making optimum use of available space and light, and combining innovative and high quality materials, appeals, talking to us could be rewarding.

55 Devil’s Creek Rd, Buckland Valley, Victoria, 3740. Tel. 03 5756 2260 Mob. 0419 575 374

4 It’s innovative design to suit the specific requirements of the site.

Simple lines, sleek appearances, minimal overhangs, durable, modern/corporate, as well as farm and family functional - this house was always going to be an exciting project. Designed to capture

250 degree views of a vineyard, the Ovens Valley and Mount Buffalo (commanding visual attention from above), the cabinetry innovations for Wilko were in this case, to integrate, rather than to dominate. Featuring meticulously constructed grid-line designed white-gloss vertical surfaces, with survey drive system, handle-less door draw runners; the minimal becomes the effortlessly invisible when viewing this our most proud achievement to date. Every part of the layout is integrated, from the seamless dishwasher install, to the cubist free floating secret wardrobe in the master-suite, to the fish tank wall feature adjoining the kitchen’s gleaming mirror splash-back. Very little furniture has been brought into this house; almost every feature including a butler’s pantry, children’s bunks, mini storage areas and robes have been custom designed to create a sense of space and relaxation as you move throughout the house. With high-gloss washable finishes and sharp clean lines, Wilko’s inventiveness has created practical and enjoyable living spaces while reflecting the external landscape sympathetically inward. If the idea of unique design is suited to your individual requirements, making optimum use of available space and light and combining innovative and high quality materials, appeals, talking to us could be rewarding.

55 Devil’s Creek Rd, Buckland Valley, Victoria, 3740. Tel. 03 5756 2260 Mob. 0419 575 374

Stone DwellerSwww.plunkettfowles.com.au

new from...Stone DwellerS 2008 rieslingWHITE WINE OF THE YEAR - 2009 Fed Square wine Awards

GOLD - le Concours des Vins du Victoria 2008

GOLD - national Cool Climate wine Show 2009

Stone DwellerS 2008 GewürztraminerSILVER - le Concours des Vins du Victoria 2008

Stone DwellerS 2008 Sauvignon BlancSILVER - royal Melbourne wine Show 2009

BEST OF CLASS - 2009 Fed Square wine Awards

Stone DwellerS 2008 ChardonnayJames Halliday Wine Companion 2010 - “Still very light colour; an elegant wine, with a lingering, drawn-out finish emphasising the length of the palate; citrussy acidity also comes to the party, the oak very well integrated and balanced.” Rating 94

Stone DwellerS 2008 Chardonnay Pinot noirRecommended and served by Qantas Club Business Class lounge.

Stone DwellerS 2008 Pinot noirJames Halliday Wine Companion 2010 - “well-made, capturing all the varietal character available; spicy/briary notes are authentic; clever use of higher than normal acidity to balance the alcohol; surprise packet.” Rating 89

Recommended and served by Qantas Club Business Class lounge

Stone DwellerS 2008 Cabernet SauvignonGOLD - Strathbogie ranges wine Show 2009

Stone DwellerS 2006 ShirazSILVER - Strathbogie ranges wine Show 2009Campbell Mattinson - The Wine Front 17/09/09

“Shiraz is the Strathbogie ranges’ best-performed grape variety. lifted and aromatic, peppery and fruit-driven... earthy, meaty character. Quite lovely.” Rated: 92 Points

Stone DwellerS 2008 MerlotSILVER - Strathbogie ranges wine Show 2009Max Crus - Daily Advertiser 1/12/09“More power to merlot we cried as this stood among a table of shiraz and cab sav.” Rating 8.6/10

Plunkett Fowles Cellar Door

Cnr Hume Fwy and lambing Gully rd, Avenel VIC 3664

t 03 5796 2150

Essentials_DPS_StoneDwellers_ad.indd 1 11/12/09 3:03 PM

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features12 Adventurous Heart – Sam Miranda of King Valley 20 Back to Bogong – Bogong Alpine Village

food & drink30 Canberra Cool – Lanterne Rooms/top wines/CosmoreX32 A SENSOry Journey – Senso Culinary Studio, Canberra48 Froth Monkeys – Bridge Road Brewers, Beechworth64 Proudly Porepunkah – Japanese dining at Boynton’s Winery66 Let’s do Lunch – Yileena Park/Treviso

discovery & adventure40 Perfect Parisian Moments – Five Essential Parisian experiences56 15 Reasons to Visit North East Victoria – Self-drive adventures

art & fashion26 Queen of Cool – Karin Tremonti Fine Gems and Jewellery 36 Starry Starry Night – Vincent van Gogh, Masterpieces from Paris 44 Kathryn Hammerton – Cocktail Hour @ Cookie

regulars8 Essential Destination – Nine Mile Music, The Whorouly Grocer10 Essential Destination – Waddingtons at Kergunyah11 Espresso Grand – Café Ray, Melbourne 52 Must Drink Wines – The ultimate in new release boutique wines

managing editor | contentJamie Durrant

sub editorLisa Maxwell

arts editorIvan Durrant

advertising | salesJamie DurrantTel. 0419 006 391

Rebecca Oldmeadow

graphic design | art directionJamie Durrant

advertising creativeCreated in-house by Essential Media

writersJacqui Durrant, Caroline Pizzey, Ivan Durrant, Emma Westwood, Gilbert Labour, Jamie Durrant, Rebekka Hodges, Krysten Manuel

recipesRichard Verrocchio

photographersJamie Durrant, Charlie Brown, Clare Plueckhahn, Emma Westwood

additional photographs & contentEssentials would like to thank the followingcontributors for additional content and images:Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Penny King, Mike Curtain, Whorourly Grocer, Australian Capital Tourism, Poachers Way, Mount Majura, National Gallery of Australia.

[email protected]

[email protected]@layoutlooks.com [larger files]

our websiteswww.essentialsmagazine.com.auwww.layoutlooks.com

publisherEssentials Magazine Pty Ltd.ACN: 132 426 576PO Box 967, Benalla, Vic 3672.Tel: 03 5762 3485

All photographs and text are the property of Essentials Magazine and or the rightful copyright holders. Under no circumstances are they to be reprinted or published by any means whatsoever without written permission of the editor. While we always try to clear and confirm all editorial content (both text and photographs) before publishing, we welcome the opportunity to correct any errors or omissions. The opinions of the contributors and/or columnists are not necessarily those of the publisher. Essentials aims to please and support the North East region via pleasurable and positive content. Every effort is made to confirm event and calendar dates and factual information, although at times please understand that errors can occur – we’re only human!Essentials strongly recommends travellers phone event managers and tourist operators to confirm dates and events prior to enjoying the fruits of this region. Essentials Advance Plus cardholders are required to register their cards online. We welcome your reviews, letters, feedback and support.

Price in Australia: FREE at selected touristlocations, $24.95 12-month subscription via www.iSubscribe.com.au

This issue: No. 16 – mid-summer 2010

(St Johns Wort, Christmas Chaos, Treasure Rogue)

Essentials Magazine is printed in Australia by GEON Impact Printing.

Sam Miranda of King Valley 12

COVER:Vincent van Gogh

Portrait of the artist 1887 Musée d’Orsay, Paris

© RMN (Musée d’Orsay) / Gérard Blot

magazine summer 2010 page 7magazine summer 2010 page 36

N I N E M I L E M U S I C

summernews[sn]‘I’ve always wanted to do this,’ says Deb Smyth of Beechworth’s Nine Mile Music. She’s talking about her recently opened music store, which echoes in both style and attitude Melbourne’s best independent shops, like The Basement Discs or Au Go Go Records. ‘That’s exactly what I wanted it to be,’ she says. While the shop is small, with a counter that’s vaguely like a breakfast nook (complete with bar stools), a quick browse uncovers a spectacularly eclectic selection of CDs: all the retro classics you long to be reunited with (be it Bowie, The Cure or The Flaming Lips), combined with a selection of ‘top shelf picks’ by alternative artists working in a wide range of genres from jazz to world music. For those bent on nostalgia, there’s even a section with the likes of Billy Holiday and Hoagy Carmichael. Deb has handpicked her discs to include the iconic albums while offering something for people who want to be exposed to new musical styles. ‘We don’t stock anything faddish. Young people know the bands they like and will download them,’ says Deb. ‘This shop is more for people who enjoy browsing, who like finding new things, and who still like looking at cover art and reading liner notes.’ Lovers of old vinyl will also find secondhand albums in stock, and based on relative values you can exchange old CDs and vinyl for new. Whatever Nine Mile Music doesn’t have in stock — whether it’s hard-to-get recordings, instrument parts, sheet music or even a gramophone stylus — they can source it. ‘I also hope that this place can become a meeting point for local musical talent,’ enthuses Deb. ‘Whatever happens, I just want to keep the shop evolving.’

Deb Smyth’s fave hot music picks:Esperanza Spalding — futuristic laid-back jazzRupa and the April Fishes — international gypsy jazz with French vocalsKylie Auldist — Melbourne-based old-school deep funkCatherine Traicos — haunting Sydney-based songstress Chris Pickering — young Brisbane lad, a folk-country lilt, acoustic/slide guitarZap Mama — ‘Afropean’ vocals, Brazilian vibe

14b Camp Street, Beechworth, VictoriaTel. 03 5728 2767

THEWHOROULYGROCERIf you want one of the best coffees in the North East, keep an eye out for signs to The Whorouly Grocer as you drive the Snow Road or the Great Alpine Road. This gem of a café-cum-local store is based in the pretty farming hamlet of Whorouly, midway between Wangaratta and Myrtleford and just off the Rail Trail. Run by the delightful Clare and Charlie Bird, the Grocer has an organic bent and boasts top-notch coffee and teas and a thoughtful breakfast and light lunch menu. It also stocks seasonal local produce, a select range of cheeses, homemade preserves, Boonderoo bread from the King Valley, Gundowring ice cream, jars of old-fashioned sweets, imported pasta, pulses and grains by the kilo, King Valley Free Range Pork and a host of other delectables. Being the local store, there are pantry staples, too. Retro armchairs and a fabulous music selection make this a wonderful refuge off the main drag.

Open Mon, Thurs & Fri 9am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9am-4pm (closed Tues & Wed)

577 Whorouly Road, Whorouly, VictoriaTel. 03 5727 1220www.thewhoroulygrocer.com.au

magazine summer 2010 page 8

Pip and ‘design-a-poster competition’ winner Lara,

outside The Whorouly Grocer

Deb Smyth

Exclusive to Essentials Magazine, Nine Mile Music has compiled several high quality and unusual packs for collectors and music lovers alike.

The Young Collector’s Starter Pack, a compilation of classical, folk and dance to soothe, entertain or educate young enthusiasts (and their parents!). Pack includes a book with educational CD, a DVD and 6 individual CDs:

My First Classical Music Book with CD — an introduction to the instruments of the orchestra.My First Ballet Collection on DVD — highlights of the best productions.Peter and de Wolf.Children’s Corner — piano music for children.Ella Jenkins, You’ll Sing a Song and I’ll Sing a Song on Smithsonian Folkways.Ella Jenkins, Multicultural Music for Children on Smithsonian Folkways.Pete Seeger, Abiyoyo and Other Story Songs for Children on Smithsonian Folkways.Classical Naptime for Tots. A dated title doesn’t do justice to this lovely soothing little collection.

Price: $240.00

The Essential Entertaining Pack offers you the coolest, most beautiful sounds for a truly memorable dinner party. Pack includes 4 CDs:

The famous and fabulous Buena Vista Social Club at Carnegie Hall.Tord Gustavsen, Being There — beautiful, almost ambient jazz piano. Yasmin Levy, Sentir, a striking fusion between the Judaeo-Spanish Ladino language and fiery flamenco. Ceu, Vagarosa — lovely, melodic Brazilian soul.

Price: $160.00

The Vintage Americana Pack, for true lovers of this widely varied genre, this pack gives you a taste of where it all began. Pack includes a book of colour photographs and brief histories with CD, a 4 CD box set and a further 4 individual CDs:

The book with CD, The Golden Age of Country, true country stars of the past and present.Anita Carter, Songbird.Patsy Cline, Sentimentally Yours.Tommy Cash, Rise and Shine.Roy Acuff, King of the Hillbillies, 4 CD box set.

Price: $200.00

The Gospel Collectors’ Pack, for those who want to know more about this engaging and uniting musical style. Pack includes a fascinating book with CD, a DVD, a double CD and an individual CD:

The book with CD I Got Two Wings by Lynn Abbott.A DVD, And This Is Free, a history of Maxwell Street. The Blind Boys of Alabama, Sanctify My Soul.Gospel Greats, an excellent double-CD compilation.

Price: $170.00

The Home Grown Pack, a collection of superb new releases from independent Australian artists in a range of styles. Absolutely top-shelf, every track a winner:

Kylie Auldist, Made of Stone. The Bamboos vocalist’s second solo album — powerful, soulful, earthy.The Bamboos, Side Stepper, a slick studio album from the Melbourne deep funk collective. Chris Pickering, Excuses Excuses — is it country? Rock? Pop? Try to pigeonhole this Queenslander! We love him!Catherine Traicos, The Amazing — and she is. Smooth, sweet vocals showcase her terrific songs.Shady Lane, Here We Go Down the Black Hole mixes simple folk songs and atmospheric pop with experimental electronica, field recordings and a few noisy beats.Aboriginal Soul — a compilation featuring artists who proudly mix their Aboriginal heritage with rock and roll culture. All the big names. A great album.Karl Broadie, Branches — a lovely acoustic sound, poetic lyrics and a gentle voice make this a very listenable album. Shades of Paul Kelly and Daniel Lanois.

Price: $250.00

The Classic Jazz Pack, for lovers of traditional jazz, a range of jazz CDs and DVDs can be packaged. Let us do the thinking for you, or ask us to personalise a collection for you. We suggest:

Coleman Hawkins encounters Ben Webster.Keith Jarrett, The Koln Concert.Buck Clayton, Complete Jam Sessions.Art Blakey’s Jazz Messengers DVD.

Price: $160.00


All prices include postage and handling.

A limited number of packs will be available, so be quick to place your order. Some flexibility of content is possible. Call us if you would like to personalise your pack, otherwise, let us do the hard work of choosing for you, so you can sit back and enjoy some wonderful new sounds.

To order telephone. 03 5728 2767

TO ORDER TELEPHONE: 03 5728 2767 All prices include postage and handling. Stocks are limited.

Mail Order the Best in New Music

Nine Mile Music14b Camp Street, Beechworth, Victoria

Tel. 03 5728 2767

W A D D I N G T O N S

essentialdestination[ed]

Jan Waddington and Natalie Watkins


WORDS KRYSTEN MANUEL

The journey to Waddingtons at Kergunyah, 28 kilometres from Wodonga, definitely charms the country girl within me. Dark gum trees stud the surrounding hills that dive and climb on every side of you, and every passing milk-can letterbox is a different, rusted colour. However, as you open the old wrought-iron gate to the nursery surrounding Waddingtons, you truly feel as if you’ve stumbled on a secret. As head chef, Jan Waddington coordinates the elegant, delectable dishes at Waddingtons. Her husband, Rod, believes the use of the organic garden is both a key to their success and their inspiration. Everything you will find on your plate is either from their garden or locally produced. Pasta, breads, preserves and more are all made on the premises and the unique selections of wines are all local. Along with Jan, Natalie Watkins, recipient of the Thierry Marx award, is also responsible for the modern Australian menu. To relax and savour a smoked chicken and mango salad is an easy way to enjoy the best of summer produce. The salad conveys a loosely Indonesian or perhaps Thai direction. The dressing and accompanying chilli jam are hot and lively, composed of fresh lime juice, fish sauce, chilli and ground, dried shrimp. It is similar in a way to a Thai noodle salad, only with the noodles smartly replaced with chicken and mango. Of course the benefit of this is a much cleaner dish with the absence of any potentially oily fried noodles. A squeeze of fresh lime juice over tender, lightly smoked chicken tastes as lively as it looks — bright with a tang. Garnished with a Kaffir lime leaf, the salad is nicely matched to the new-release Chrismont savagnin, a wine that is easy drinking and minerally clean. The fact that Jan has travelled and cooked worldwide is made impressively abundant in this dish, world class by any standard. Walking through the garden of exotic and Australian plants, 800-year-old trees twist into the sky and funky artworks peek out from behind enormous cacti, offering a soulful sense of the property’s history and serenity. It’s these experiences that brings people back to Waddingtons. The rustic shed was converted into a restaurant Rod built, a work of art in itself. This complements the expansive grounds, explorative and masterful cuisine and easygoing, professional service. ‘It’s such a pleasure to serve our food,’ Rod proudly reflects.

Open 12-4pm Thurs-SunBookings recommended, weddings and functions available.2688 Kiewa Valley Highway, Kergunyah, VictoriaTel. 02 6027 5393

Within eye-shot of Melbourne cultural icon Franco Cozzo’s Brunswick showroom, Ray is the place where funksters flock and phrases like ‘the city’s best coffee’ are flung around. The ethnic rub of this unique neck-of-the-Melbourne-woods comes through in the tastes offered at this café — you might even hear French hip hop on the stereo system — or better, fresh tunes from the Middle East. Choose from the likes of baharat baked with chilli labneh and toasted pide; Arabian-style bircher muesli with cream, pistachios, poached fruit and honey; and toasted pide with eggplant, hummus, halloumi and za’atar. If you haven’t noticed from that brief blackboard rundown, Ray’s food is predominantly of the ‘brunching’ persuasion, which makes chowing down on eggs — free range, of course — any time of the day a totally viable option. But it’s the coffee that makes Ray the gathering ground for Brunswick’s groovy urbanites, and the thing that has attracted aficionados from far and wide. Originating from local caffeine purveyors Atomica, the espresso machine pumps out Ray’s own special roast, offering a full-flavoured smoothness that doesn’t bite the tongue. Anyone who is both a discerning coffee drinker and is lactose-intolerant can also expect a superior soy milk option. Look for the bright red awning and stencil art adorning the façade out front, as well as the industrial brick walls that have been scrubbed back to a distressed contemporary styling. Ray doesn’t come with any flashing neon signs advertising its street presence but there is a distinct warmth and buzz to the atmosphere that will have you drawn like a snake to its charmer. Plant your bottom on a small stool at the big, wooden communal table, where you’ll get to exchange words with the locals, as well as securing the perfect vantage point to drink in the city rush, Ray style.

Open 7.30am-5pm weekdays, 8am-5pm weekends (kitchen closes at 4pm)332 Victoria Street, Brunswick, VictoriaTel. 03 9380 8593

R A Y

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espressograndWORDS KRYSTEN MANUEL WORDS EMMA WESTWOOD

sam mirandaking valley

adventurousheart

WORDS CAROLINE PIZZEY PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT RECIPES RICHARD VERROCCHIO

Summer in the heart of the North East: it’s hot, life has slowed post the Christmas frenzy, the effects of good

rains are present in lush growth and the vines are full of promise for the coming vintage. Everyone is ready to relax and there’s no better way to do so than over a long lunch. But at Sam Miranda King Valley going the lazy lunch option doesn’t mean zoning out. Summer heat may dull the senses, the drone of cicadas induces sleep, but the minute you sight the now-iconic cellar door light tower standing sentinel among the vines on the outskirts of Oxley, your attention is piqued. You sit up, awake and alert. You know you’re in for an adventure. Cool architecture, cool fit out, cool-climate wines. Relax, sure, but there’s no pushing out zeds here, no letting your tastebuds take a back seat because there’s always something new here to tickle the palate. The current Sam Miranda releases, exclusive to cellar door, have been made with summer in mind: aromatic arneis, pretty and sophisticated rosata and party-perfect prosecco. Italian easy-drinking styles, they’re fresh, not too high in alcohol and eminently suited to being partnered by summery foods. As she pours a glass of the salmon-pink rosata to partner a charcuterie and antipasti selection, front-of-house Bec Deslandes quietly mentions ‘sangiovese from Myrrhee, 24 hours’ skins contact’ before slipping off to leave us to chat with sculptor-turned-chef Richard Verrocchio. (If the hip and zip of the front of house speaks to you of a cruisey, laidback approach to life, think again. This lot knows how to make you relax, knows how to make your visit an easy, pleasurable one, but they work hard to make it all happen.) ‘We offer a Mediterranean shared table, a “this goes with that” approach,’ says Richard, who knows this way of life well, coming from northern Italian stock. ‘We’re driven by what’s seasonal, so the menu changes nearly every day. And we’re a lunch venue, so there needs to be an element of “fast”. People come in hungry and we need to feed them as quickly as we can.’ Hence the tasting plates — they’re a fabulous way to relax and to try the new releases. The jamon (try a gutteral ‘haah-mon’ for best effect) is Spain’s answer to prosciutto and a stunning match to the rosata, the full-on mouth-filling savoury-ness of the former cut by the warm berry notes and gentle acidity of the latter. Homegrown beetroot with toasted walnuts, blue cheese and tarragon is also a fine pairing, the earthiness of each ingredient and an underlying sweetness uniting the whole. But nothing’s set in stone here — remember, we’re talking about relaxing. ‘We’re not prescriptive about which wines go with which foods, we just suggest.’ As much as possible is made in-house for the antipasti — including the syrupy vincotto (‘cooked wine’) that comes with olive oil for dipping. But more and more, it’s the restaurant’s veggie garden that’s directing things in the kitchen here and elsewhere on the menu. ‘It’s a work in progress, and Sam is very excited about it’, says Richard. (Sam, a third-generation winemaker, has also just built a palatial chook house — a handy, self-sufficient Italian boy through and through!) ‘At the moment, the herbs are fantastic, so I’m using them as much as I can.’ We see this in the rabbit terrine with ‘garden

bits’ — a glossy, glistening dome of green-flecked savoury jelly, rich with wild rabbit meat and tarragon. Fresh on the palate, it is perfect fare for a hot day. ‘And we try to keep things healthy,’ says Richard. ‘We don’t want people leaving feeling bloated. Because of this and because we have the garden, we tend to have two or three vegetarian mains on offer.’ We see this in the richer, heartier dish designed with the palate-cleansing spritz of the winery’s first prosecco in mind: zucchini stuffed with kefalograviera (a salty Greek cheese), currants and mint on a bed of creamy sweetcorn, topped with a poached egg and pickled cucumber. Richard’s artist’s eye is evident in this vibrant dish. When their own garden can’t deliver, Richard turns to suppliers such as Di and Jim Aumann at Fruits N Fare in Benalla, or to specialists like Wendy and Angelo Grassi from Oxley, who produce zucchini flowers complete with tiny zucchini (‘the old Italians hate this,’ laughs Richard, ‘they want to know why I’m wasting a zucchini!’). Stuffed with ricotta and wild rice, and steamed rather than fried, these blossoms are ambrosial, a tahini aïoli underpinning the warm, earthy and nutty flavours. A glass of crisp, aromatic arneis sits well alongside this garden-fresh dish. I love the way Italians do food and wine: neither is complete without the

other. And I love the way Italians do ‘style’ and ‘country’ — you see it in rural Italy, where the signore are dressed to the nines to do the shopping, and you see it here at this cellar door. Architect-designed, it’s a beautiful space — all concrete, glass and white inside, verdant verges and rock walls outside — but it’s never too far from its roots, embracing as it does the vines, the river red gums that lie across a terrace made for summer dining, and the vegetable garden just around the corner. It’s a good-looking place, sure, but it’s the passion that unites this team that’s so intoxicating: Sam’s adventurous vision, Richard’s enthusiasm, Bec’s professionalism and the ease with which winemaker Evan Jones makes his way through cellar door, his clothes indicative of a day at the barrels. It’s a passion for the simple things in life: good service, good food, good wine. Let the team from Sam Miranda take you on a summer adventure in the heart of the North East — and relax!

Tastings from 10am-5pm dailyRestaurant open until 3pm daily (lunch from 11am)

1019 Snow Road, Oxley VictoriaTel. 5727 3888Freecall. 1800 94 750www.sammiranda.com.au

The Miranda family, from left: Arabella, Rachel, Caterina, Sam and Allegra


THE ARTIST’S EYEWild rabbit and tarragon terrine


CLEAN AND CLASSY New release 2009 Sam Miranda Prosecco



AMBROSIALSteamed zucchini flowers

Zucchini stuffed with kefalograviera, burghul, currants and mint on creamed sweetcorn with a poached egg and pickled cucumber


ZUCCHINI STUFFED WITH KEFALOGRAVIERA, burghul, currants and mint on creamed sweetcorn with a poached egg and pickled cucumber

Kefalograviera is a firm, salty Greek cheese made from sheep’s milk that is available from good delis.

Serves 6

SaltWhite vinegar6 very fresh eggs

Pickled cucumber

2 Lebanese cucumbers, cut into julienne½ cup salt1 cup sugar1 cup good quality white wine vinegar½ cup water1 star anise1 bay leaf12 whole peppercornsOlive oil

Stuffed zucchini

2 cups water Salt3 cloves 1 cup coarse burghul9 small white zucchini Olive oil350g kefalograviera, diced 200g currants24 large mint leaves, choppedPepper

Creamed sweetcorn

3 cobs sweetcorn, husks and silks removed¼ cup crème fraîche SaltPepper

Method

You can make the pickled cucumber in advance — it will keep for 3 months in a sterilised jar. To make the pickle, toss the cucumber with the salt and leave in a non-reactive colander for 2 hours to drain. Meanwhile, bring the sugar, vinegar, water and spices to a boil. Cook until the sugar has dissolved and remove from the heat. Rinse the cucumber well under running water and pat dry. Bring the pickling solution back to a boil and blanch the cucumber in it for 1 minute. Remove the cucumber from the pickling solution, then place in a sterilised jar and cover with olive oil.

To prepare the zucchini, bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan, then season with salt and add the cloves and burghul. Return to a boil, then simmer over a gentle heat, covered, until the water has evaporated, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Peel the zucchini, then halve them lengthways and use a melon baller or a teaspoon to hollow them out. Heat a frying pan and sear the zucchini using a little oil until golden brown. Season the zucchini with salt and pepper.

Once the burghul has cooled, toss it with the cheese, currants and mint, then season with salt and pepper.

Fill the hollowed-out zucchini with this mixture, then place on an oven tray. To prepare the sweetcorn, bring a large pot of water to a boil, then cook the corn for 8 minutes. Remove the corn from the water and set aside to drain. Carve the kernels from the cob, then blend in a food processor with the crème fraîche until smooth. Season to taste and set aside.

To complete and serve the dish, preheat the oven to 250˚C. Bake the stuffed zucchini for approximately 10 minutes or until the cheese begins to colour. Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil, then add a dash of white vinegar. Poach the eggs a few at a time, then keep warm. While the eggs are cooking, reheat the creamed corn. Divide the corn between 6 plates, then place 3 stuffed zucchini halves on top of each serving of corn, add an egg, place a little pickled cucumber on top and serve immediately.

CARAMELISEDPOACHED WHITE PEACH with white chocolate and saffron semifreddo and raspberry cordial

This dessert uses the 2009 Snow Road Moscato — another Italian variety that’s perfect for summer entertaining. You will need to start making the semifreddo the day before it is needed; the poaching syrup can also be prepared in advance.

Serves 6

White chocolate and saffron semifreddo

5 eggs (at room temperature), separated½ cup castor sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 170g white chocolate 1 teaspoon saffron threads2 cups heavy whipping cream Poached peaches

1 750ml bottle Snow Road Moscato3 cups castor sugar1 vanilla bean, split1 stick cinnamon 1 star anise3 cloves 6 unblemished white peachesPure icing sugar

Raspberry ‘cordial’

200g fresh raspberries½ cup castor sugar

Method

To make the semifreddo, lightly oil a rectangular terrine mould or cake tin and line it with plastic wrap (allow some to overhang the sides to make extraction easier) and set aside.

Beat the egg yolks, castor sugar and vanilla extract on high speed in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk until very light and fluffy (3-5 minutes).

Melt the white chocolate in the microwave — do this by cooking it for 10 second bursts, stirring in between. Allow to cool a little but not set. Gently fold the cooled melted chocolate and saffron into the egg yolk mixture and set aside.

Whisk the cream in a large bowl until it starts to thicken, then gently fold into the yolk mixture.

Whip the egg whites on high speed in the clean, dry bowl of the mixer with the whisk attachment (make sure it is clean and dry, too, or the whites won’t whip) until they just hold soft peaks. Gently fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Transfer the mixture to the prepared mould, then freeze for at least 12 hours.

To poach the peaches, bring the wine, sugar, vanilla bean and spices to a boil in a large stainless steel saucepan and simmer until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool.

Several hours before you wish to serve the dessert, halve the peaches and remove the stones. Submerge the peach halves in the syrup (still in the stainless steel saucepan) and cover with baking paper. Bring to the boil, then remove the pan from the heat. Gently weigh the peach halves down with a plate so they stay submerged in the syrup and leave at room temperature for 2 hours or until they can be peeled easily. It is important to remove the skin while the fruit is still warm. Return the peeled peach halves to the syrup.

To make the raspberry cordial, put the raspberries and castor sugar into a stainless steel bowl and cover tightly with foil. Stand this bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, ensuring it’s a snug fit (essentially creating a double boiler) and cook for 45 minutes over a gentle heat. Strain the fruit and syrup through a fine sieve, discarding the solids (do not push on the residue in the sieve — you want a translucent rather than cloudy liquid).

To serve, remove the semifreddo from the freezer and let it stand somewhere cool while you prepare the peaches.

Remove the peach halves from the poaching syrup and put onto a ceramic plate. Dry the flat side of each half, then liberally sprinkle with icing sugar. Using a gas blowtorch, scorch the sugar until it caramelises. (If you don’t have one of these, you can quickly and gently slide the peach halves under a very hot griller — but watch them as they can easily burn.) Cut 2cm thick slices of semifreddo and arrange on 6 flat serving plates. Stack 2 peach halves on top of each slice of semifreddo, then spoon over a little raspberry cordial and serve immediately.

food bitessummer


magazine spring 2009 page 58 magazine summer 2010 page 21

Bogong Village, perfectly tucked within the pristine Victorian alps, offers all the balance, freedom, light and shade we desire from a holiday. Providing a wealth of relaxation and rejuvenation for happy families, couples and adventure seekers alike, packing your bags for Bogong has never been easier. Essentials’ Jamie Durrant hits the hills to road test this mini-alpine escape.

Originally built for workers of the Kiewa River hydro-electric scheme, 26 houses and cabins

comfortably rest within a small, heavenly valley overlooking the calming waters of Lake Guy. Perfectly positioned between the playgrounds of Mount Beauty and Falls Creek, Bogong Village is set in lush European seasonal gardens and surrounded by Alpine National Park; with glorious uninterrupted and heavily forested mountain peaks towering above. A stay in the village can be as adventurous or as relaxed as you like: walk — swim — read — dream — ride — canoe — rest is Bogong’s uncomplicated marketing motto. It is a place that offers a host of action-packed possibilities yet never forces the issue. The pace is slow, dreamlike and serene, with the sound of rustling leaves, mountain streams, birdsong and kookaburra laughter in the air. The environment is naturally climate- controlled (up to a good 10 degrees cooler in summer), and with a choice of individually styled (up to) four-and-a-half star accommodation, each with lake, garden or mountain views. Sleeping from two to eight persons, finding the right house or cabin

at Bogong Village might be the hardest part of your holiday plan; however, with the Village’s well thought-out website, navigating the cabin and house interior photos, village layout and walking tracks is child’s play. So you’ve booked your accommodation, made the drive through the picturesque alpine valleys up into the hills, parked the car, dumped your bags and cracked a bottle of wine — is your Bogong Village accommodation all that you expected? The answer: All that and more. Allow me to explain. On a recent trip to Sydney I checked into a four-and-a-half star boutique hotel that presented well. My room was fitted out with a Bang & Olufsen flat screen TV, king-sized bed, fluffy pillows, designer chair and coffee table, internet, mini bar along with an en suite featuring travertine marble tiles and a lovely glimmering-white spa bath. Although I was at first rather impressed, to my surprise, after only five short minutes of becoming aquainted with my surroundings, I sat back with a cup of tea to face a few realities. My room lacked of any part a view from its glued-shut window (fresh air, anyone?), and while I enjoyed playing with the weighty cast-

metal TV remote for a while (it was nice to hold), it soon became very clear to me that I was stuck in a box for the night — utterly soulless. In contrast, choosing a four-and-a-half star house or cabin at Bogong is exactly what the doctor ordered. On this early summer visit, the drive winding down into the village from the Bogong High Plains Road is refreshing. The mountain air is crisp and cool, the village feels cosy, hidden, secretive and homely. The surrounding mountain ash forest views appear as a real-life Eugène Von Guérard canvas, and, upon easing onto the parking space of Cottage 26, adjacent to the village picnic gardens, the sound of a gently flowing stream shares my attention with currawong birdsong in the treetops above. A quick inspection of the accommodation proves to be extremely positive: the layout and size is generous and the feel – modern, well-equipped, functional – soon inspires a collaborative Masterchef-styled ‘celebrity’ cook-off.

back to bogongWORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT

[continued page 24]

magazine spring 2009 page 58 magazine summer 2010 page 21

qualia Resort, Hamilton Island


ROCKY VALLEY CREEKMore than lives up to its name

SNUGGLE POT CABIN 26An upbeat version of cosy

CUDDLE PIE Even the bedroom wants to hug you

DREAM PICNICGourmet fare from the Alpine Valleys


THE VILLAGE BELLE

Cottage 26 features three bedrooms: two with king beds, and one with two king singles, en suite to master bedroom with spa bath, second bathroom, open plan kitchen-dining-lounge room and a private second tv/sunroom; just perfect for a quiet read or DVD, safely nested away from the rest of the flock’s squawks and calls. Relaxation and simply ‘being’ yourself is a big part of the Bogong experience. It is a place that is unpretentious, unchallenging, comforting and connected with nature. For children, playing in the Village’s expansive manicured gardens is a delight; for adults, a picnic or hike is a rewarding and peaceful outing. Other summer activities suited to the whole family include use of tennis courts, canoes for hire, walking paths, fishing, bocce, BBQ facilities and picnic areas. Spring and summer are an ideal time to visit Bogong Village, with the flowering of the rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas and dogwoods bursting into life. Only a pleasant 20 minutes’ drive from the Village are the Bogong High Plains, with its meadows and woodlands filled with daisies, buttercups, and other wildflowers unique to the alpine region throughout Spring and Summer. In contrast to struggling, heat-affected summer foliage at sea level, the gardens at Bogong (between 650 and 700 metres altitude) remain leafy green throughout summer and later transform into a spectacular blaze of colour in autumn. A few times each winter the Village wakes up to a magical carpet of bright-white snow, turning Bogong into a one-of-a-kind fairytale mountain hideaway. The scenery is stunning, and at this time of year a visit to the Alpine Village Belle, similar to an Austrian Alps ‘bierstube’ (beer room), is a fine location to warm your heels by the crackling open fireplace. With a gentle breeze rustling through the mountain ash and with the city-slicker’s delight — ‘the sound of silence’ — soothing the soul, a good night’s sleep at Bogong Village is not a possibility, it’s a promise. And thankfully, in this peaceful little part of forest, even the birdlife seems to sleep in just a little — perrrfect!

Bogong High Plains Road, Bogong, VictoriaTel. 03 5754 1131www.bogongvillage.com

[from page 21] Within 15mins drive of Bogong:

5

5

5

back to bogong

Skafferi, Mount Beauty. Beautiful Swedish-inspiredcafé-deli-store. Open 7am-6pm daily.

Fainter Falls, via Bogong High Plains Road.Easy walking, incorporating picturesque views.

Ivory Room, Tawonga. Café and gallery servingtapas, coffee, cakes. Open Thurs–Sun 9am-3pm.



what’s on @ Wangaratta exhibitions Gallery

30 January – 28 February 2010

MULTIPLICITY: Susan Fell McLean

30 January – 28 February 2010

Paper WEIGHT: works on paper by artists from

North East Victoria

Peter Caddy, Kirsten Coates, Caryn Giblin, Inga Hanover, Peter O’Dwyer, Fleur Rendell,

Annie Smart, Kim Westcott, Bill Young

6 March – 5 April 2010

CURRENT FORM: Sculpture by artists from

North East Victoria

Bruce Derrick, Margaret England, Ben Gilbert, Ken Raff, Mark Selkrig

summer 2010

56 Ovens Street, Wangaratta Vic 3677T: 03 57220865 E: [email protected] www.wangaratta.vic.gov.auHours: 12-5 Mon-Tues 10-5 Wed-Fri 1-4 Sat-Sun A Cultural Service of the Rural City of Wangaratta

Images above (l-r): Susan FELL McLEAN, Untitled – detail, mixed media art cloth; Kim WESTCOTT, Untitled - detail, drypoint, pigment, oil and encaustic on paper; Ken RAFF, Gunner, metal

She’s creative, humorous, eccentric and brash. This Swiss-born, Swiss-trained goldsmith and precious gem collector is, quite simply, the queen of cool. Making her mark with larger-than-life, iconic jewellery designs that are dazzling red carpets and catwalks from Rodeo Drive, Beverley Hills to Cannes, Karin Tremonti is a force to be reckoned with. With explosively good looks and a lust for life, the firey Karin took time out to chat with Essentials’ Jamie Durrant about her passion for gemstones, how jewellery can reflect the mood, tastes and desires of the wearer, and why her jewellery can be considered ‘wearable art.’

Karin Tremonti Fine Gems and Jewellery

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT AND PENNY KING

Your jewellery collection consistently features incredibly rare and superior-grade examples of diamonds, rubies, sapphires, aquamarines, tourmalines, other precious stones and worldly treasures, including South Sea and Tahitian pearls and Australian opals. What sort of values (monetary and otherwise) do you feel the average Australian places on precious stones, is there good basic knowledge and love out there?

‘The average person doesn’t get the opportunity to see the complete range of precious stones in their lifetime. Stones such as a Burmese ruby, a Kashmir sapphire or all of the many colored varieties of diamonds and opals are incredible works of nature that are extremely rare, and therefore not kept in stock by many jewellers.’

If people don’t get to see the rarer stones, do they therefore place a higher value on a diamond? ‘I would say it’s a very big cliché with (the) diamonds. A colored stone, like a nice sapphire, can fetch a much higher price than a white diamond. But of course, the average knowledge is that diamond is the most valuable stone. It can be, if it’s in a certain size or in a certain rare color, for example a brilliant pink, red, green or blue.’

The marketing phrase ‘a diamond is forever’, developed by the De Beers company, is considered one of the most successful marketing campaigns of all time. How do you personally feel about the image of diamonds and how highly do you personally value their celebrity ‘glitterati’ status? Is there any colour or grade of diamond that really excites you or pushes your buttons?

‘Diamonds are great, so long as they’re set nicely and, at best, are reasonably substantial in size. The main

attraction with diamonds is their glittering, sparkling, star-like quality. A diamond has the highest reflectivity of all gemstones, partly because diamond takes the best polish of all materials because it is so hard. As a general rule about 20 percent of the light that falls on a diamond is likely to be returned to your eyes as reflection — that’s a lot of light — and it’s sparkling right at you. It’s an amazing effect. ‘The phrase ‘a diamond is forever’ is a basically clever wordplay on the fact that a diamond should actually last forever — and always look its same sparkling self. It also carries a message that suggests it won’t break — a diamond has a hardness of 10 (Moh’s hardness scale). You cannot really scratch, break or abrade a diamond, except with another diamond; every other stone has a lower hardness and can actually abrade as you’re wearing them. ‘The dynamic range of natural colors in diamonds is fantastic, these really excite me. Colours such as a canary yellow, orange, a red, blue or green diamond, or a beautifully formed rare pink or extremely rare red diamond — these are stunning,

they really have to be seen to be believed! ‘I love the shades of cognac diamonds when used in combination with orange or pink diamonds and black diamonds. I have quite a few special rings such as these in my Beechworth shop, however I have a much wider variety of select pieces in my Albury studio and workshop. ‘I believe cognac diamonds will play a substantial role in the future market as the cost is slightly lower than white diamonds and they still produce the same stunning sparkling effect and brilliance. They’re also a fun colour to play with. ‘Coloured diamonds, such as the pink diamonds sourced from the Australian Argyle Mine are gaining rapid popularity and their prices are skyrocketing on the European and Asian markets. This certainly reduces the number of jewellers that can actually afford to purchase and display these beautiful pieces. ‘Here’s a current (market rate) pricing example of: A 1.00 carat white, finest quality diamond (D,IF=internally flawless), with an appropriate GIA certificate is currently priced at around 27,500 Australian dollars. A 0.48 carat fancy, intense purplish-pink diamond from Argyle fetches 74,000 Australian dollars. ‘There are of course many various intensities of pink diamonds; and with this their value can change slightly; however one monetary fact is crystal clear: pink diamonds will rise in price every month and continue to gain in value.’ Are gemstones simply a visual excitement or do they provoke high emotional feelings and attachment? How deep does the love for precious stones go?

‘It can happen with all the nice things in life — you just get attached! Gemstones can be similar to perhaps a loved one: it’s like if you hold a stone in your hand, sometimes you just don’t want to let it go — s*#t happens! It might be because of its color, its shape, the brilliance

or none of the above. Even a good-looking gravel rock or an uncut stone can have its charms. There are so many attractive stones out there — but they’re mostly stones that I cannot even afford (laughs). I believe every stone has an undeniable energy, and our souls feel this energy. ‘There have been a couple of gemstones that I dreamt of and I simply had to go out and hunt down. One of these was an exquisite emerald which is absolutely unusual with its mind-boggling natural vivid green colour. This stone makes me feel great and brightens my day up whenever I see it. Most emeralds have a perhaps deader green appearance — a green that doesn’t ‘live’ is how I’d describe it. In a gemstone I look for a trigger; something that switches inside of you, moves you from a joyful state to complete insanity — now that’s a gem!’ Your signature rings, ear and collar jewellery display a unique and varied range of textures, shapes and goldsmithing techniques. Some elements of your work appear to be taken from nature (gold formed into patterns similar to sea shell sections and textures, vines and plant life, and other more free-form abstract designs such as your gold chains with links that appear more relaxed rather then stiff and contrived. What grade of gold (how many carat) do you prefer to work with and can you explain some of the techniques used to create your pieces?

‘I like to work with 18 carat gold and above. Eighteen carat gold (75 percent fine gold, 25 percent pure silver and copper) has a wonderful colour that it retains throughout production of a piece of jewellery. I also love working with 20 carat gold because of its subtle yellow tones. Palladium, or platinum white gold (18 carat), is beautiful to work with also. As a rule, the higher carats, the better. ‘Eighteen carat gold has a great hardness. The next-to-no abrasion strength of 18 carat gold is fantastic. European jewellery and high-class jewellery is usually made from 18 carat, where nine carat and 14 carat is simply a less expensive option. If you look at a piece of nine, 14 and 18 carat gold beside each-other (each piece at a two years’ of age) you’ll see that the nine and 14 carat oxidise — they get darker as they age. This is because of the higher percentage silver and copper.’ Can we just go over some goldsmithing techniques? For example, how to you go about forming a ring?

‘I always start with professionally manufactured gold in grains, sheets or stock gauge and then begin forming a piece of jewellery with various tools and by hand. Some of my little helpers include a manual rolling machine, various hammers and files, and of course super-hot flame — the “flame of life” (laughs). ‘I prefer mostly to just have a piece of metal and think of how it’s going to look, and then begin shaping it and filing it the right way — bending it, changing its shape and form by hand. It requires a lot of strength — it’s probably the most creative use of human muscle force. ‘I personally manufacture every component of a piece, right down to mechanical parts — clasps, for example. This way I can be assured that each individual piece is as strong as required and will last a lifetime.

‘I cast gold using a range of techniques that allow me to create three-dimensional objects: a foundation for a ring, for example. These can begin as hand-carved wax models that are sent away for premium grade casting; this is a very efficient use of gold as there is less wastage compared with filing, for example. I’ve created many models in my past 27 years as a goldsmith and still use these from time to time. They allow me to produce a smaller series of rings at a competitive price point. ‘I love to cast using cuttlefish bones. It’s very time-consuming as you can only cast one bone piece of jewellery at a time — the cuttlefish bones burn up with the heat of the gold. It’s a great way to get a unique jewellery structure, with beautifully textured ripples, it’s fantastic — fingerprints are similarly stunning and are fun to wear. I recently made a piece where the whole family’s prints (wife and kids) were included in a design, a special gift for for dad — that was pretty cool.’ There seems to be a cooler edge to your jewellery, ranging from the more earthly natural designs to the more futuristic rings that perhaps take their direction from science fiction, space vehicles, planets and star clusters. How have you developed these harder-edged pieces and how do you feel they differ from more traditional or conservative jewellery?

‘I make wearable art, you might say, I think this approach is due to my Swiss background. The Europeans prefer to make bigger and bolder rings, perhaps more outgoing and confident, and artistic statements. I would personally say this also showcases the courage and power of the wearer — to put on a big ring, to show it off takes guts; although thankfully now, large, punchy rings are totally in fashion. The bigger, the better — it’s great.’ Do you see your jewellery as art or an elegant status symbol?

‘Definitely elegant, definitely art, but also as a status symbol. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that — it’s cool, certainly if it’s one of my rings (laughs). ‘Jewellery should be an expression of an individual’s mood, taste, desires and achievements. We all show this every day with clothes, shoes, cars — you name it. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with showing off a little, so long as your character remains down-to-earth. Seeing and appreciating the beauty of jewellery is the key as well, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.’

Many of your pieces feature extravagant clusters of diamonds, elaborate, hand-soldered, seemingly microscopic gold patterns centred around precious stones with a striking colour, clarity or intensity. The detail and expense appears similar in quality to that of what one might perceive as international Crown Jewels, or made exclusively for royalty and the stupendously rich. Is my perception of this correct? How close are some of your works to that of the world’s best, and are your pieces actually affordable?

‘Wow, thank you! In terms of workmanship, we have the skills, experience and resources to carefully produce seriously top-end jewellery — that’s for sure. Some of my pieces are comparable with Crown Jewels of some nations, however “the world’s best” is an indefinite expression. ‘Each Tremonti Fine Gems and Jewellery piece is a collaboration between my husband (a gemstone trader) and myself, the designer/creator. One new set, (a necklace, ring and earrings, shown on the collar jewellery section of the Tremonti website, www.tremonti.com.au), features natural crystal opal shells (300 carat), collected over the past five years, 19 plus carat fine pink diamonds, and 11 carat fine white diamonds, all set in 18 carat rose and white gold. In this case your perception is correct, and yes, of course it is affordable — maybe just not for everybody (laughs). ‘What I really love doing every day, however, to is to make people happy and this can be via making pieces that are designed to a budget. I’m very happy to work hard for any customer that genuinely respects my work, regardless of price point. I always take an attitude to produce jewellery that’s outstanding and perfect in every possible way. It’s a fantastic, beautiful and very ancient art form that allows you to get your hands dirty. Eccentric, dazzling, sexy and soulful — I wouldn’t have it any other way.’

Studio & Gemstone Collection638 Kiewa Street, Albury, NSWTel. 02 6041 6310Call to make an appointment. Jewellery Gallery open 7 days, 10am-5pm44 Ford Street, Beechworth, VictoriaTel. 03 5728 1003

www.tremonti.com.au

H I D D E N G E M

[Cc]canberracool

Some of Canberra’s gems are currently found away from the main trendy areas. It seems that a growing number of chefs and restaurateurs are eschewing the glitz and glam of buzzing, albeit impersonal, strips as found in Kingston and Manuka in favour of more discrete, cosy suburban shopping centres. There, a niche, loyal following is more easily cemented via consistency of delivery at all levels and word of mouth. Pistachio Dining, as featured in the last issue, is a case in point. However, Lanterne Rooms, situated at Campbell Shops, preceded it as a much sought-after suburban venue. The deliberately quirky French spelling of Lanterne, coupled with the dark wood décor, sliding slatted blinds that filter cool, moody lighting, allowing partitioning of private spaces when needed, all give rise to evocations of venues in the more salubrious French quarters of Asia. This all melds into relevance as Chef Jeffery Shim brings with him, from his native Malaysia, a solid French-indoctrinated culinary training, which he has morphed into a Nyonya-inspired cooking style. This has defined Lanterne Rooms as a definite stylistic destination rather than an opportunistic end-product of parking at the neighbourhood shops and popping in for a quick Asian meal. French, Indian and Chinese influences are tamed and controlled into a melange of flavours, which segue into a delivery involving an intriguing juxtaposition whereby proteins and starch provide a base, allowing ingredients such as galangal to mix with okra, daikon, fennel and tofu, among others. This multicultural permutation is reflected in and translates into an array of dishes that are designed to titillate and entice diners into return visits.

Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday, dinner Monday-Saturday

3 Blamey Place, Campbell, Australian Capital TerritoryTel. 02 6249 6889www.lanternerooms.com.au

Within minutes of being handed a waiter-scribed mobile phone number of young gun Canberra region winemaker Alex McKay, I was calling and texting, desperately trying to get hold of a bottle of his 2006 Collector Reserve Shiraz; a wine that the boys at Canberra’s new Lanterne Rooms restaurant were clearly raving about. I did not immediately get Alex on the blower, however I was pleasantly surprised at his upfront, friendly phone manner when he returned my call a day or so later. I was keen to taste and review and thankfully, this time, his wine was not totally sold out — he agreed to send me a bottle. Saving the best ‘til last, I waited for the right moment to try this wine, sharing it with family and close foodie friends (New Year’s Eve) who I knew would produce the perfect Chinese five spice duck, light ‘n’ fresh scallop and prawn dumplings and impeccably perfumed and seasoned pork belly dishes to match the blissfully floral scents of this utterly superb and decadent wine. Sitting on an outside deck overlooking the Whitsunday islands (horrible view — hell on earth folks), I cracked the screwtop and inhaled deeply into the neck of the bottle — from that very moment, I was in heaven. A wine that keeps on giving, this is perhaps a shiraz that is both elusive and alluring with so, so many delicately scented nuances. Its colour is a striking bright purple, similar to a durif, however this surprising ‘miracle liquid’ sparkles with gemstone pink tinges dancing at the rim of the glass. Floral is the description that instantly comes to mind when smelling, yet with time and a little thought comes a mixed bouquet of deep, yet clean blackberry, soft mulberries, black pepper, chocolate, herbaceous hints of mint, vanilla and just a hint of warm plum. Without any doubt, The Collector is one of the most elegantly produced, light-to-medium-bodied and delicate shiraz ever produced in Australia. It makes me want to become fanatical about the Canberra and Southern New South Wales Hilltops wine region — intriguing? Absolutely! Using carefully selected grapes sourced from a range of Canberra district growers and produced in a small winery near the town of Collector (north east of Canberra), Alex McKay has hit the ground running, recently being awarded the 2009 Penguin Best New Winery award and celebrating other trophies for his incredibly well-crafted new world wines. Having raved about its bouquet, there’s not a lot more I feel I need to say about the Collector Reserve, other than to talk perhaps about its wonderful ability to open up and improve. Upon opening I noted the structure as being a little thin. After two to three hours of leaving the cap off at room temperature the wine’s palate becomes much softer, fuller, rounded, sexier — luscious. Now soft, fine tannins are smooth and slightly grippy, all still extremely well-balanced, nothing ever overpowering. In a world where just about every man and his dog becomes a wine expert, and tells you what to drink, from where, when and why, it’s wonderful to be given the heads up on a gem of the Canberra region and for it to outstrip any top competition that I can pretty much think of. A great wine from a wonderful part of the world made by an extremely talented, down-to-earth and relaxed personality. Alex, you’ve done it mate — hats off to ya! Thank you for the trip, allow me to sip again. Cheers.

WORDS GILBERT LABOUR

R E V I E W : C O L L E C T O R WORDS JAMIE DURRANT


canberracool[Cc]

C A N B E R R A’ S T O P V I N O Canberra’s wine region is fast gaining an international reputation for its leading, distinctive wines.

While the ACT and surrounding Hilltops wine regions have lately seen the proliferation of tourist-focussed small wineries (mostly scattered either in the Murrumbateman area or around Lake George), there are three gems located directly within the central Canberra district that are quickly gaining an impressive international reputation. Pialligo Estate Winery and café, located only seven minutes from the heart of Canberra, is set in a picturesque plant nursery and orchard, lovingly tendered by John Nutt and Sally Milner. The Pialligo Estate site showcases commanding views over Parliament House and produces a range of wines from mainly estate-grown grapes, which have now won at least 40 medals since its inception. The eastern slopes of neighbouring Mount Majura, initially identified as a valuable viticultural area by Dr Edgar Riek, saw the establishment of Mount Majura Vineyard in 1988, where Frank Van de Loo guides the winemaking process. The Mount Majura 2008 Tempranillo won the gold and Stewards Choice awards at the recent 2009 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show in Mildura. The 2008 chardonnay and TSG (tempranillo shiraz graciano) also won gold at the 2009 Winewise Small Vigneron’s Awards. Eden Road Wines, produced at the Kamberra Winery, literally within a few blocks of the Canberra CBD, recently achieved one of the highest accolades on the national wine scene by winning the sometimes controversial but keenly sought-after Jimmy Watson Trophy at the 2009 Royal Melbourne Wine Show. The winning drop, Eden Road’s Long Road 2008 Hilltops Shiraz, recognises the nearby Hilltops Wine Region as producing some of the best terroir in the world for shiraz. With young gun Nick Spencer at the helm and bringing with him a winemaking background from Rosemount and Coldstream Hills among others, this label is one to watch.

Pialligo Estate Winery18 Kallaroo Road, Pialligo, Australian Capital TerritoryTel. 02 6247 6060www.pialligoestate.com.au

Mount Majura Vineyard314 Majura Road, Majura, Australian Capital Territory Tel. 02 6262 3070www.mountmajura.com.au

Kamberra Wine Company / Eden Road WinesCorner Northbourne Avenue and Flemington Road Lyneham, Australian Captial TerritoryTel. 02 6262 2333www.devinefunctioncentre.com.au

Recently Essentials visited Canberra’s coffee elite — artisan coffee roaster CosmoreX. Offering the best of imported coffee machines, coffee paraphernalia and freshly roasted coffee, CosmoreX’s retail store, café and roasting headquarters is quite simply a bean-scene of absolute delight. Having been given a tour of the new eco-friendly ‘smokeless’ roaster (specially commissioned by Attilio, Italy) it was time to sit back, relax and sample an espresso, latte and long macchiato. The verdict? Seriously impressive — massively so! So what’s the secret? CosmoreX’s beautiful Attilio beast achieves a much more uniform roast than can be obtained from traditional machines. Eco-friendly-wise, it operates without need of an afterburner, therefore using less gas and emitting less CO2 than both traditional drum and fluid air bed roasters. Producing a range of custom roasts that we have simply fallen in love with (trust us — they’re varied and beautiful), CosmoreX is clearly on a winner.

44 Kembla Street, Fyshwick, ACTTel. 02 6280 7511 http://cosmorexcoffee.com.au

C O S M O R E X

WORDS GILBERT LABOUR


Ocean trout bathed in clear tomato juice with broad beans, wakami seaweed


A glance at the current skyscape of Canberra city evokes visions of surreal prehistoric vistas.

Evanescent morning mist reveals building equipment that swoop and dive across the ever-diminishing horizon like pterodactyls and triceratops. Multimillion-dollar concrete, glass and steel monuments rear up like jagged teeth in a snarling rictus. Such is the apparent price of progress or perhaps the epiphanous coming of age of Canberra. Inevitably with progress and expansion also comes emancipation of the nation’s capital attracting hitherto unknown or estranged local talents in all fields of industry, entertainment and hospitality. Recognising this city’s potential and promise, Master Chef Jan Gundlach, he of Michelin Star rating, adopted it as his new home; his interesting culinary and personal progress starting in his native Germany and culminating in his love affair with Canberra. Here, he and partner Friederike celebrated the birth of their little princess, Anika. At this stage, some backtracking is in order to establish Jan’s credentials and journey to this point. Jan’s quest for culinary perfection started in 1976 as a chef apprentice in Hanover, Germany and took him around various acclaimed restaurants both in Germany and Switzerland.

a S E N S O r y

for a posting as Executive Sous Chef on Hayman Island for two years, thence to Asia but could not help but return to the solace and grounding of his farm at least twice a year. In 2002, he could no longer resist the siren-like lure back to Canberra where he has since settled. One of Jan’s lifelong dreams was to establish a culinary centre of excellence, hence the opening of Flavours Culinary Centre in 2003 in the definitely non-trendy industrial precinct of the Fyshwick markets. Initially meant as a cooking school, Flavours soon progressed into an attraction for the big end of town. It quickly evolved into a venue for corporate staff development and bonding cooking schools as well as promotional business events despite the less than salubrious location. However, the clamour from the general discerning populace for Jan to run it as a restaurant grew more strident as Flavours’ reputation as a fine dining niche quickly and deservedly spread. This was accommodated to a degree despite the floor space restrictions of that venue as Jan, in true entrepreneur mode, recognised the potential and future of such an enterprise. When the area was redeveloped last year, Jan seized the opportunity to redefine and further his vision of excellence by opening Senso Culinary Studio as a

At age 24, Jan Gundlach was the youngest chef to win the coveted Gold Medal at the Culinary Olympics in Frankfurt. High recognition beckoned towards an eventual Michelin Star, which he gained in 1987 at Restaurant Bakkarat in Germany after achieving the title of Master Chef the previous year. Thence on to a career studded with awards which saw him rub shoulders with the elite such as Michel Toisgros, Alain Ducasse, Paul Bocuse, Noel Robuchon, Charlie Trotter and Charlie Keller among other luminaries of that ilk. His international achievements are too numerous to list but they include being on the judging panels of the International Culinary Competition in Manila, the Culinary Olympics in Germany and the Salon Culinaire in Singapore. As well as being Executive Chef at the famed Raffles and Fullerton hotels in Singapore, Jan led a brigade of 190 chefs at no less than 14 affiliated restaurants under the Mandarin Group in Singapore, the Peninsula Hotels in Hong Kong and the Philippines culminating in his elating appointment at Raffles. Throughout this peripatetic odyssey, Jan, early in his career enjoyed a short holiday in Australia. Instantly enamoured by this country, he invested in a small hobby farm on the outskirts of Canberra. He then left

WORDS GILBERT LABOUR PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT

j o u r n e y


mainstream fine cuisine restaurant which also offers cooking classes to the general public. The Senso banner also encompasses Flavours Culinary Academy, which was recently awarded a Certificate 3 in Commercial Cookery, meaning that young chefs can be trained and accredited at Jan’s didactic standards. A meal at Senso is almost like being part of a symphonic performance with the Master Chef wielding the baton. The muted chic décor of floor-to-ceiling glass, chrome, greys, pastels and browns (and not a single kitsch painting in sight) engenders an atmosphere of relaxed country elegance where workers from the neighbouring construction sites enjoying a quick coffee break rub shoulders with business suits enjoying long lunches, in equal comfort and equanimity. The fluency of movement, choreography and quietness of the open kitchen engender mouthwatering anticipation eventually confirmed by the meticulous and transcendentally sensorial balance of each individual plate. Only the freshest and enviro-friendly ingredients purchased mostly on the day are used. Part of Jan’s credo is that ‘it’s a chef’s responsibility to have profound product knowledge of and to support environmentally sound agriculture.’ Thus he devotes time to visiting oyster farms, cheese makers, wineries, olive groves and other food production centres in his quest for the purest expressions of ingredients, but which also sharpens his constant search towards ‘preserving nature and perfecting simplicity’. However, to deconstruct the apparent simplicity of the dishes would not at all do justice to the thoughtful assemblage

of the various ingredients meticulously tweaked and plated so as to enhance each element to maximum effect, visually and texturally. These are dishes meant to intrigue, tease and satisfy all senses. Clearly a case of the sum of all parts definitely surpassing the individual components. Jan’s parting comment was that ‘there are no bad cuisines, just bad cooks’, and this encapsulates his insistence that timing is of the essence in delivering each component at its absolute peak. A meal at Senso is definitely not a quick run in and out affair but rather a leisurely journey through a culinary landscape where flavours, tastes and textures develop in a subtly insistent but emphatic crescendo of complexity towards a true overall Sensory experience. Germany’s loss is definitely Canberra’s gain.

Corner Dalby and Mildura Streets, Fyshwick ACT Tel. 02 6295 7722Web. www.senso.net.au

CANBERRA COOLNick O’Leary and David Keeley

Nick and David at Pistachio

Tranches of Kingfish quickly pan-seared and baked with aniseed milk froth, pea sprouts on a rhubarb coulis

ON THE MONEYPistachio Dining at Torrens

Jan Gundlach



FOOD • WINE • WALKING

Australia Summer 2009-2010: Alpine Valleys – High Country Victoria – Great Ocean Walk

Personal service, boutique accommodation, small groups, delicious food and fine wines.

Italy, 2010: Tuscany – Cinque Terre – Piedmont – Italian Alps

BOOK NOW for Italy 2010: Tuscany – Umbria – Cinque Terre – Piedmont – Italian Alps

CALENDAR OF HEDONISM 2009-2010

January6th to 8th: Epicurean Adventure 8th to 11th: High Country Legends 29th to 4th Feb: High Country Journey

February10th to 12th: Epicurean Adventure 20th: Lazy Lunch – A Taste of Piedmont21st: Mount Buffalo hike and gourmet picnic27th: Winery Walk: Dal Zottos of the King Valley

March 6th to 8th: Epicurean Adventure at Villa Gusto Gourmet Retreat14th to 20th: Great Ocean Walk 24th to 26th: Epicurean Adventure26th to 29th: High Country Legends

Of course, if you’d like to book a private walking adventure or you’d prefer a trek custom-designed to meet your specific requirements, Jackie and Mick are more than happy to oblige.

h e d o n i s t i c h i k i n g

• Invigorate your Senses

• Indulge in Fine Food and Wine

• Discover the secrets of the High Country

‘I could have told you, Vincent,This world was never meant for one As beautiful as you’ — Don McLean:

Vincent (Starry Starry Night)

I should be so lucky, lucky lucky lucky — I sound like Kylie Minogue but that’s how it was, lining up for my ticket to the

Masterspieces from Paris exhibition at the National Gallery of Australia, Canberra — and only a 10-minute wait in the queue. The anticipation of seeing Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night lit a long-forgotten furnace. I was 14 again, holding hands with my very first girlfriend, edging towards that very first gentle kiss. Thrilled beyond belief. Rushing through the first two rooms, scanning a hero’s list of Monet, Cézanne, Lautrec, Seurat, Picasso, but no van Gogh, I moved to the third; then all of a sudden, my god, there it was, much bigger and more spectacular than I expected, truly amazing — to me, the greatest painting of all time. And there I was, alone, one metre away, dead in front. Lucky, lucky, lucky, I should be so lucky in love, because it was an overwhelming sense of love, love for Vincent, love for humanity and love for art, that flooded my body. His Starry Night is the zenith of virtual reality: I was with him painting; we were sharing the same brush, mixing paint together. He was in my head; I was in his: full

of passion, excitement, and anxiety rushing to squeeze every twinkle of starlight into the blackness of our universe. How, I don’t know, but the phthalo-blue water rippled, quivered, and flowed, totally alive, yet by some miracle, stayed on the canvas — it just doesn’t get any better. Suddenly, I noticed two women standing beside me; who knows for how long. Excited to share something, anything with them, I turned their way and smiled, to see tears streaming down their faces. My watering eyes were, of course, due to an allergy to the air conditioning. I’d never known such an outpouring of emotion to a painting before. Why and how did a seemingly frail, humble, bipolar, absinthe-drinking, one-eared schizophrenic do this to us? The simple answer is he’s just the greatest, and now most famous, artist that ever lived. Thinking about it, he may be the greatest man that ever lived: the real truth is it’s all about being human. Generally speaking — or should I say, Darwinally speaking — animals progress, change, survive or die off according to their ability to adapt better to changing environments. Those changes are accidental at first, freaks of birth; if they work, they live on. For the human race, in our present form, we have advanced and adapted not by growing longer necks or better camouflage, but by using our creative, inventive brain.

STARRY STARRY NIGHTWORDS IVAN DURRANT

Taking in accumulative current knowledge, we scan the world for discoveries, creating new and better ideas — a new way of seeing — a better way of living. Vincent’s breakthrough was discovering the power of expressing deep personal thoughts and emotions, creating a massive breakout, freeing up personal expression in other artists, writers and eventually in us all. His paintings taught us that an individual’s mind and spirit is the most valuable of all commodities. The secret lies in being ourselves. Once confident in the knowledge that all we have and all we need to give is ourselves, the greater the sense we make out of being born human. We are all equal and uniquely valuable, with a gift to share. Vincent van Gogh makes every artist before him merely the missing link in our evolution. Yes, without doubt, he is a keystone in our development. Any wonder we are profoundly, deeply moved to tears of love when we see his work.

‘They would not listen, they’re not listening still,

Perhaps they never will.’— Don McLean: Vincent (Starry Starry Night) No Don, you’re wrong, we did listen; now his message is locked into our DNA forever.

‘ the secret l ies in being ourselves’


Masterpieces from Paris: Van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne and beyond features 112 of some of the best-known works of modern art from the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, one of the great museums of 19th century art.

Canberra only, until 5 April 2010 national gallery of australiaparkes place, parkes

canberra, australian capital territorywww.nga.gov.au

Vincent van Gogh Starry Night 1888

Musée d’Orsay, Paris © RMN (Musée d’Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski


Vincent van Gogh Portrait of the artist 1887

Musée d’Orsay, Paris © RMN (Musée d’Orsay) / Gérard Blot



Vincent van Gogh Van Gogh’s bedroom at Arles 1889

Musée d’Orsay, Paris © RMN (Musée d’Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski

} Pont Alexandre III and the dome of Les Invalides

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA WESTWOOD PONT ALEXANDRE III PHOTOGRPHY GREG PANOSIAN

INTERIOR PHOTOGRAPHY FOUR SEASONS HOTELS & RESORTS

The picture-postcard ‘city of romance‘ — most commonly known to lovers of the more beautiful things in life as ‘Paris’

— is one of those sights that, when finally beheld, is almost too illusory to be true. We all know what the Eiffel Tower looks like, but to see it — to breathe the same air that blows around its sepia-tinged metallic legs — is like being transported into the pages of a fairytale. Given the chance to visit Paris, there’s a number of obligatory ‘tasks’ to cross off the ‘to do’ list. Louvre — tick, Notre Dame — tick, Eiffel Tower — tick. But getting under the skin of Paris is more than just checking off boxes. When presented with such an imaginative, contemporary city in which history, atmosphere and savoir-faire oozes from every croissant-stocked café, making the

most of Paris comes with the ‘experiences’ as opposed to tourist traps found in the pages of a travel brochure. So what do we actually mean by ‘experiences’? Well, here are a few that made Essentials feel like we’d savoured the true flavour of Paris:

1In the final episode of the TV show Sex and the City, you may recall a New York-forlorn Carrie Bradshaw feeding sweets into the mouth of a large dog sitting

beside her in a genteel, luxurious-looking café. This café — correction: tea room — is the now world-famous franchise, Ladurée. Even though the ‘Ladurée’ name stretches well beyond Parisian city limits these days, this pioneering tea room (the first

EAT MACAROONS AT LADURÉE 4

perfect par is ian moments

George Cinq Hotel

of its kind to open in 1862 as a place for ladies to gather, as opposed to men-only cafés) is as Parisian as you can get. To step into one of Paris’ four Ladurée parlours — Rue Royale being the original — is harnessing the essence of the city through diabetes-inducing ingestion. You’ll feel as though you’ve popped up inside a chocolate box of prettiness swathed in pastels, ribbons and tissue. Ladurée Paris produces over 110 tonnes of their signature product — macaroons — each year. Even if macaroons don’t necessarily float your boat, as yours truly can attest, whatever is the house specialty, especially in Paris, is the way to go. A large macaroon and cup of coffee served on dainty china will set you back close to 20 dollars, but once you bite into the doughy-centred, crisp-skin of these titillating treats, any ‘cost’ falls to the wayside. Ladurée macaroons are a little sphere of heaven — a rush of sugary euphoria — and a Parisian experience you won’t want to miss. Tip: If you don’t satisfy your sweet fix at Ladurée, consider popping into another Parisian institution — Angélina on the Rue de Rivoli — which is purported to have the best hot chocolate in the world.

2 Paris boasts the largest public bicycle rental program in the world with 20,000 bicycles available from 1,450 stations

GRAB A BIKE – GET ECO-FRENCH-FRIENDLY 4

(approximately one every 300 metres throughout the city). Rather than the subterranean alternative of the Métro, swiping your credit card and taking a treddly around Paris means no vista is missed and you can also work off any extra macaroons consumed — guilt assuaged. Stop whenever you feel like it, duck down skinny laneways that grab your fancy and feel utterly Parisian with bike basket up front. Keep an eye on the road though because, unlike Australia, helmets are not compulsory.

3 There’s something about Parisian pedestrian streets — the old-worldy charm, the lessened risk of being ploughed down by a motor vehicle, the aural relaxation — that makes

3DISCOVER A PEDESTRIAN STREET AND WALK EVERY INCH

lingering longer an absolute necessity. On pedestrian streets, locals comfortably stop to engage en français, and shops and cafés spill more languidly onto the thoroughfare. If you’re lucky, you might even find yourself serenaded by some violin-bowing minstrels. Essentials’ favourite Parisian pedestrian street would have to be the beguiling Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd arrondissement — a veritable smorgasbord of dedicated produce stores, including cheese shops, wine stockists, flower stands and one of Paris’ oldest bakeries — La Maison Stohrer — established at this exact location in 1730. To stroll from one length to the other is an eye-popping indulgence for the serious gourmand, and it’s not short of groovier than groovy places to enjoy a refreshment or two, either. Another pedestrian joy is Rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, situated in the buzzy Marais district that’s given its colour by a reputation as Paris’ gay enclave. The stores along here are one-of-a-kind intriguing, from the likes of Free ‘P’ Star — a secondhand clothing store packed to the rafters with designer pre-loves and frequented by very cool, young Parisian hotties scoping for a bargain — and Passage du Désir — an upmarket ‘lovestore’ for sextoys et cadeaux romantiques. Ooh la la!

4 As those slippery euros fly from your pocket, you’ll be pleased to note some of the best things in life are free.

3PICNIC IN A PARK

When the sun is shining in Paris, Parisians flock to the city’s celebrated gardens — often paired up as impossibly chic couples — to soak up vitamin D and work on those European tans. No need to worry about picnic blankets and assorted accoutrements — many of Paris’ parklands come equipped with well-placed benches and, in Luxembourg Gardens, even sturdy metal chairs that can be repositioned as you like them. A chair for your feet, n’est-ce pas? Grab a baguette from the deli, a tart from the patisserie and a bottle of champagne from the supermarket (don’t forget the plastic flutes) and you’re ready to enjoy the sunshine Parisian-style. Essentials suggests visiting Jardin des Tuileries, the inspiration of many of artist Claude Monet’s works.


Emma Westwood on Rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie

Young Parisians tête-à-tête in the

Luxembourg Gardens

5 Fifty bucks a pop for a cocktail might not be everybody’s idea of a good time, but decorate that cocktail in the ornamentation of one of Paris’ regal hotels and, somehow

3 GO COCKTAIL CRAZY AT A LANDMARK HOTEL

— somehow — it becomes an experience worth paying for. The roll-call of historic and illustrious hotels in Paris is infinite, with names like Hotel de Crillon, The Ritz, Hotel Regina and Le Meurice Hotel leading the charge. Essentials was particularly enamoured with the sumptuous George Cinq Hotel, situated off the boulevard Champs-Élysées, which now falls under the Four Seasons banner and embodies the spirit of French luxury with antique gilded furniture, polished marble and oversized tapestries from the 17th century — not to forget a pergola of hanging air orchids in the courtyard. Another sublime example of Parisian decadence — in this case, marrying the traditional with forward-thinking contemporary classicism — is Hotel Costes on the affluent Rue St-Honoré. The brainchild of Jean-Louis Costes of the Starck-designed and immensely popular Café Costes, this establishment feels somewhat like a high-class bordello; one frequented, though, by the world’s most beautiful people and complemented by its own range of lounge music, magazine and branded gift items, including perfume. Order a dirty martini, munch down the entire bowl of nuts provided (maybe even snaffle a notepad and pencil from George Cinq) and drink in the heady atmosphere. The visual stimulation of these hotels alone is worth its weight in gold, and it will take you far longer than the end of your cocktail to register all the quality and detailing of the interior design. We think it’s something you need to experience at least once in your lifetime.


George Cinq Hotel

Le Rocher de Cancale on Rue Montorgueil

George, Damia Gown

cocktail hour

STYLING KATHRYN HAMMERTON PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT

LOCATION COOKIE BAR & RESTAURANTMODEL ALYCE HAMMERTON

Kathryn Hammerton, Beechworth presents a

glamourous new collection featuring flamboyant silks,

rich velvets and shimmering metalics, mixing palettes of

pinks, cerise and soft greens, accentuated by feathers.

George, Aaliyah Dress

George, Magenta Coat

George, Addison Gown

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Fresh cooked mud crab at Shimmy’s; Aussie Adventure Sailing; Kin Shim aka Shimmy in search of crab pots; Great Barrier Reef Yacht Club, Hamilton Island; degustation @ qualia Resort; yellow-crested cockatoos fly in for a chat; Marino showing the delights of his deli; entwined mangrove rootsCENTRE IMAGE Able Point Marina


Adventure, that’s what I love about tasting the beers at Beechworth’s now iconic Bridge Road Brewers, situated in

the old coach house behind the commanding Commercial Hotel, in the bustling shopping strip of Ford Street. I put this adventure down to the active and inventive mind of owner and master brewer Ben Kraus, a quiet achiever who seems to be constantly working and thinking (make that brainstorming). He’s a brilliant multi-tasker — yet somehow this creativity flows with a calm approach; I have no idea how he does it! What’s wonderful about Ben and his partner Maria Frischmann’s brewery is that in a little over four years, the lively Bridge Road team have managed to build a nationally successful brand, win multiple awards, provide top-notch gourmet pizzas, live music and outdoor film nights onsite at their Beechworth headquarters and, last but certainly not least, excite a wide range of fussy beverage tasters ranging from the everyday ‘session’ beer drinkers and the hardened ‘hophead’ beer villains, to the fragrance and yeast-loving ‘froth monkeys du jour’. For the record, you can lump myself, and my mother in the last bunch: she loves the wheat beer, and I, the Chevalier Saison — and sorry, mum,

you’re not really a froth monkey, you are a great poet (all true, readers — see over). Although I certainly do love Ben’s more fragrant, lighter beers, the slightly darker and more spice-driven Biere De Garde is an impressive beast, as was last summer’s green and fresh hop-harvest brew; an ale that tasted as sweet and sappy as the smell of fresh-crushed Ovens Valley hops in your hands: zingy, bold, and fresh, with a comfortable amount of bite. This creative connection to the local environment and new beer development done on-the-fly is not a new thing for Bridge Road. Chestnut Lager is another example of harvesting locally and brewing something unique and fresh: following Ben to the Ross Trevor hop gardens last year to hand-pick fresh, sweet-smelling hops for that afternoon’s ale ferment was an eye-opening experience — one that reminded me of the extent to which beer truly can be hand-crafted, not merely marketing slang printed on the bottle label. Unlike winemaking, the process of producing beer from brewing and bottling to its release, can be extremely fast. This has its downsides however, as the product output at Bridge Road is a never-ending story. With any lazy Sunday visit to the old coach house tasting bar and alfresco pizzeria, one is soon

provided with evidence that defines a simple Australian fact: we’re still a nation of beer lovers. And with beer at beer prices, and the lads and gals knocking back schooner after schooner of golden and pale ales in the sunshine, the task of keeping the kegs coming is a pressure I would personally prefer to live without. Bridge Road’s brewing headquarters is much loved by the public. A social and family-friendly environment, the mood is relaxed, festive and homely. Inside, timber brewing tanks form the focus of the old coach house tasting room, creating a warm and rustic atmosphere. 1800’s handmade bricks, timber beams, and a polished concrete floor add to the honesty of the space. Although several indoor tables offer a cosy place for dining on a cooler night, it is the alfresco courtyard that is the real people-pleaser, and on a warm day it seems to be Beechworth’s eating and meeting place of choice. On the day I sit down to sample four of Ben’s more extravagant brews, I find the tasting and note-taking tough, as complexities and subtleties are a mark of Bridge Road’s beers. With an ease of determination I press on ahead, sipping and sampling; the day is joyous.

froth monkeysbr idge road brewers

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANTPORTRAIT PHOTO MIKE CURTAIN


Ben Kraus


hop into the grooveBY JUDY DURRANT

how serendipitous said rita westinghouse was my fifties revolution for those womenas to the kitchen born whose housewifely inclination left them sighingwith appreciation of my appliance’s physiquesoprano greeting tenor of the times oh so sweetly

so it is todaybrewers’ rising yeasty zeitgeist plus a little twist of dnacooks up a vat to passion’s soul proportions enabling all the strokesall the cranial and physical contortionsrequired to consummate the act

our babies obliviousto all the hard work the privationsuffered in their making so next you’re soaking heavenly libationdown one in their appreciation and rememberthe cool cat where it’s at is love

IT’S A BEER OASISBridge Road Brewers Headquarters

Chevalier Saison By far the leader in the fragrance stakes, this dusky honey, straw-coloured beer glimmers in the sun with a bright white head. Aromas of bubblegum and bananas make the scent profile of this traditional Belgian farmhouse-style beer an almost comical but nevertheless outstanding drop. Subtle grassy-hop flavours meld well with the more dominant citrus and tropical fruit palate. A light and eccentric brew that is outgoing and not shy in the taste department. A subtle taste of sea water, believe it or not, is yet another complexity to this beer, something that might sound a little strange to read, yet adds some interesting depth and colour to the brew. It is clear that this is a great food ale, and pairs up nicely with Maria’s lively and fresh water-melon salad. A top team!

Why drink?: It’s the perfect summer appetiser and great with food.Malt profile: MildHop profile: MediumFragrance profile: OutgoingPop star: Elton John — happy and with zing!Star rating: 4.5 stars

Chevalier Biere De GardeI can remember first tasting this beer two years back with beer import-er and all-round froth guru John Cope Williams, then bar manager of Melbourne’s famed Cookie. John poured me a glass of cold Biere De Garde and insisted that I taste it right away, think about the flavour profile, and then re-taste it every 15 minutes as it warmed up. Small sips only, we did this over a period of an hour and a half: the results were striking, to say the least, as the beer’s complex spice-driven fruitcakeyness flavours become far more evident as it warmes up. Loosely based on traditional Belgian and French farmhouse ales, Biere De Garde is malty, spicy, fat and exotic. When held up to the light it appears not too dissimilar to a pinot noir wine, with its deep cherry red colour, nicely framed with a creamy, fluffy ‘top-hat’ foamy head. What I love about Biere De Garde is its complexities. The yeast esters are a sweet bubblegum, the palate malty, and full, yet still perfectly crisp and clean, as is its finish. As it warms up, the round mouthfeel becomes more balanced and the spice and cooked-fruit flavours of currants and cloves meld together seamlessly. At a warm-er temperature the bubble beads even seem more elegant and the whole package takes on a fantastic earthiness, similar to that found in a good sparkling shiraz. Without a doubt, this is an exciting beer by any world standards, a truly masterful creation. Try this with Maria’s roasted duck pizza with tomato, bocconcini, orange segments and Peking duck drizzle — love it!

Why drink?: Intriguingly exotic and loads of fun to experience as it warms up.Malt profile: StrongHop profile: MediumFragrance profile: Sweet, spicy and delicatePop star: Neil Young — complex, intriguing and with balls.Star rating: 5 stars

Beechworth Pale AleThis, Bridge Road’s benchmark ale, is a gem of a beverage. Strangely enough it’s not at all pale in colour, more of a dusky chestnut-amber tone, which looks... well, just nice, really. Dominated by aromatic hop characters, this dry-hopped ale is tweaked season to season to make it taste ‘just so’. ‘Hopheads’ will love this beer as it’s bold, punchy, funky and brash. It really does have a scent and flavour profile true to the hero of this ale, the hop. One can quickly get the vibe of what fresh hops are all about with this brew. Fresh hops crushed in the hand are oily and sweet-smelling; also, sappy, grassy, sticky and spiky. To drink this ale is to be connected with the living plant: it’s powerful and nicely bitter, extremely well-balanced and has a long finish. Personally, I’d recommend this beer as a starting point for entering the boutique beer tasting scene. Without trying to be a smarty-pants about it, this is a great blokes’ ‘session’ beer. One pot is never enough!

Why drink?: It’s hop heaven and one of Bridge Road’s bright shining stars.Malt profile: MediumHop profile: StrongFragrance profile: Grassy, sappy and real.Pop star: Adam Brand — a down to earth and trustworthy lad.

Robust PorterStout or dark ale scaredycats take note: Ben’s Robust Porter is not as heavy and dark as it looks — it’s clean, simple and to the point: mocha, chocolate and a hint of tobacco — all the good stuff! Made using plen-ty of roast barley and chocolate malt, this is Bridge Road’s big-boy porter that won’t leave you asking for more. Ben and Maria suggest you try this one with dark chocolate and liquorice; or with rich choco-late desserts or even freshly shucked oysters. For my money I’d rather drink a pint on its own, as this porter is as smooth as a baby’s and is ex-tremely clean and simple to drink. Smelling the nose of choc-mocha and tobacco is brilliant and this brew’s big, dark chocolate finish is extremely classy. Like many dark ales, there is a bitterness, however the Robust Porter never seems to offend. I can imagine guys and girls both equally loving this ale as its flavours are so, so apparent. Noth-ing to hide, no tricks, no complexities; this one’s flavour profile is as upfront as you can possibly get. Plain as a Bulgarian pinup? Not likely, this ale is sexy and stunning. Pour me a glass, will ya? Why drink?: For the surprise: it’s like drinking liquid dessert.Malt profile: StrongHop profile: MediumFragrance profile: Coffee, chocolate and tobacco — all the good stuff!Pop star: Prince — sleazy and sexy, yet with style and glamour.Star rating: 4 stars

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Fresh cooked mud crab ata Shimmy’s; Aussie Adventure Sailing; Kin Shim aka Shimmy in search of crab pots; Great Barrier Reef Yacht Club, Hamilton Island; degustation @ qualia Resort; yellow-crested cockatoos fly in for a chat; Marino showing the delights of his deli; entwined mangrove rootsCENTRE IMAGE Able Point Marina

Old Coach House, Brewers LaneFord Street, Beechworth, VictoriaTel. 03 5728 2703www.bridgeroadbrewers.com.au


get hop and malt profiles from ben

Jamie Durrant samples the ultimate in new release boutique wines from the Yarra Valley and North East Victoria

must drink wines


Mandala 2008 Yarra Valley Chardonnay

A new-world summer chardonnay, anyone? I’ve found the perfect drop. When I last visited Mandala wines, tucked away in the northern rolling hills of the Yarra Valley, I was admiring the vineyard views, rolling and sweeping across the land, framed by the familiar Mount Dandenong peak in the late afternoon haze. Thankfully, this time round I’m admiring the stunning tangle of vines and leaves that grace Mandala’s ornate labels. It is great art that sparkles in its gemstone light metallic inks of diamond yellow and sapphire pink... The 2008 chardonnay for me is all about lime and grapefruit; in fact, it even appears straw-coloured with a glowing lime tinge — remarkable. I took one quick sniff and sip of this wine and I was transported to another land; it was a magical place. Tranquil bathing pools, soft waterfalls, lush green foliage, sumptuous rich fruit to gorge on, beautiful women feeding this to me, and all the while massaging my feet and shoulders — could a wine get any better? Okay, I might have been drifting off... The nose is immediately elegant — sweet honeydew melons, clean mineral spring water, a squeeze of lime and a splash of cool grapefruit: it is one to get lost in. It is pleasing to not be challenged by this wine’s soft round palate, comfortable and lively with zesty acid giving crunch and bite. I’d be keen to drink this simply as a great summer aperitif; however with such attention-getting lime and grapefruit dancing on the tastebuds, it might be criminal not to share this one with some freshly barbecued prawns or quickly seared scallops. There is certainly some soft oak treatment to this wine. It is, thankfully, in no way overpowering. This small touch, combined with the rounder mouthfeel, reminds me of a classic French Chablis-style wine. There are some nice minerally qualities also, and the finish is long and gracefully clean. If to explore wine is to be unwillingly lured into its sensual and adoring, dream-like nuances, then Mandala Wines has presented a magic carpet ride to unravel your mind and unglue your senses. Soul, fully, good.

Mandala 2008 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

Perhaps not a pinot noir for the adventurous funky-palate-pinot-obsessed, yet a well-crafted wine nonetheless. This, Mandala’s easy, elegant and vibrant drinker splashes confidently in the glass, with its luminous cherry colours gleaming and smelling fine. Showing off with its classic cherries and violet, super-clean nose, winemaker Charles Smedley has crafted a classic varietal pinot designed to please all who sip its soft and relaxed tannins. As the wine opens up, beautiful layers of chocolate meld with the ripe cherry nose. It is somewhat of a confectionery scent, rich and full. Although not over pungent in the barnyard or mushroomy forest-floor stakes, there are some wonderful herbaceous tones that colour the palate when drinking. For my money, I feel this wine could be a touch overpriced at 25 dollars — regardless, it is an extremely well-balanced wine and would easily excite those looking for a classic varietal wine. If this is Mandala’s cheaper option, a visit to the Yarra Valley cellar door is a must, if only to compare this wine with the Prophet Reserve Pinot — well worth the trip. Melba Highway, Dixons Creek, VictoriaTel. 03 5965 2016www.mandalawines.com.au

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490m Shiraz Dolce 2009

Fresh, vibrant, sweet and juicy — this is the promo line for this wine, and it’s pretty much on the money. From the get-go this wine is youthful, fun and attractive. With a punchy nose of sweet-cooked cherries and chocolate, this slightly spritzy red also presents with a syrupy/candy-like fragrance, one that is enjoyable and uplifting. Best served chilled, this Plunkett Fowles entry level ‘490m’ branded shiraz dolce is a well-crafted, value for money, all-round good-time summer wine. With a soft and luscious mouthfeel, this wine has been made with quality fruit. Cooked fruit complexities and spice add pleasing depth and colour to what could otherwise be a quick-fix cash-cow bottle shop quaffer. Fortunately, the new wine design partnership of Matt Fowles and Sam Plunkett has built the 490m brand based on balancing the palate rather than giving an accountant’s formulas merit. In turn, the lads have produced a joyous, all-round crowd-pleasing summer apéritif — nothing excessive, yet one to truly enjoy with close friends and family as the summer sun sets over the twinkling water and the iPod DJs play rocking tunes to order. Fun for all the guys ‘n’ gals? You bet! This is the wine to have on ice. Chill it down and chill out with a big hit of summer forest berries — a very cool drop indeed.

Stone Dwellers 2006 Shiraz

Warning: this wine is seriously moreish, a little is never enough! Although not a reserve wine, and perhaps not promoted as the best in the Plunkett Fowles stable, I personally believe this wine is the pick of the bunch and ready for drinking right now — it’s a total knockout. Upon a pre-Christmas tasting at Plunkett Fowles’ recently renovated Avenel (Victoria) cellar door, I was surprised at the body, balance and drinkability of this wine, especially when directly comparing to the PF’s flagship reserve red, ‘The Rule’. In a way, it might be fair to suggest that The Rule is perfectly designed to lay down for a few years, as it shows slightly firmer, grippier tannins — the structure is slightly larger. In comparison, the Stone Dwellers has a mouthfeel and fragrance profile that makes it utterly addictive and palate-pleasing right now. With a deep purple/cherry colour, this wine appears larger than life and jumps out of the glass with a warm nose of dark chocolate, mocha, plum, blackberry and a hint of cooked currants. A nose that keeps on giving; an added floral touch is evident thanks to a small addition (three percent or so) of viognier, beautifully colouring the wine. In a way, this addition creates a layer of toffee, plum pudding or tokay shine to this wine’s otherwise impressive summer fruit scent. Here we find depth, spice and body; however the fruit is not dark, dirty or dull — cleanly expressed. As you might imagine, to taste this wine is to pretty much be connected to its scents. Big, lush, clean fruit flavours, a soft and lengthy palate; with a nice touch of caramel and black pepper adding complexity and style. Shiraz is without a doubt clearly a winning fruit in the cooler-climate, granitic soils of the Strathbogie Ranges, and the Stone Dwellers 2006 Shiraz is a wonderful example of just how fine and coloured the balance can be. Another great talking point regarding the Stone Dwellers (and 490m) range of wines is the topographic map label designs developed by Matt’s partner, Luise Fowles. Lu’s design focus and talents have elevated the Plunkett Fowles name with new wine brands that are both aesthetically pleasing and smartly connected to their region. These maps present a similar feel to that of French wine appellations (legally defined and protected geographical maps indicating where the grapes for a wine were grown). Although wine creating and tasting can be a pretty serious business, at times it’s nice to simply stop and enjoy. The good thing about a well-balanced wine is the fact the the analytical part stops sooner and the enjoyment takes over. The gag that came to mind while taking notes on this wine was the fact that Lu’s label should have come with a list of real life scenarios, or perhaps warnings and excuses for anybody having a little too much fun:

‘Sorry, won’t be home for dinner — on a conference call.’

‘I forgot the milk again but I’ll buy the kids a happy meal if they start screaming.’

‘Call me a taxi.’

‘Pour me another glass — my head hurts.’

‘Fanatical wine tasting ahead — proceed with caution.’

In a world filled with wine snobs, thankfully this is one wine that can meet us halfway. Now go enjoy it for yourself!

Corner Hume Freeway and Lambing Gully Road, Avenel, VictoriaTel. 03 5796 2150 www.plunkettfowles.com.au



Rutherglen Estates Renaissance ‘07 Zinfandel

Gone are the days of a potentially fast dollar in the Australian wine industry. With NZ sauv blancs landing on our supermarket shelves for as little as three dollars a bottle wholesale, it’s any wonder those with a little extra vino expertise and a truckload of get up and go are now in line to become the celebrated survivors and future stars of our now sadly shrinking local wine industry. To keep ahead of the pack and to move the juice has now becoming far more challenging, and I’m pleased to report that many North East wineries, such as Rutherglen’s iconic Rutherglen Estates, are forging ahead with fantastic wines, unbridled enthusiasm, top-notch technique and honest-to-God, hands-on, good old hard work — and there’s much to be said for that! A few months back, RE’s down-to-earth and jovial CEO, Phil Chamberlain, took time out to give me a personal tour of the estate’s vineyards, rustic farm-house offices, barrel room and winery. It was a fun afternoon, four-wheel driving across dam banks, admiring bird habitats, winding down and around lengthy vineyard rows in the afternoon sun and laughing away as we tasted barrel after barrel of on-the-ball, super-cool, French-inspired yet very new-world wines. Magic. In terms of great wine design, upon sampling the (cellar door release) RE Renaissance ‘07 Zinfandel, I was instantly hooked. This wine is a great example of careful vineyard management, premium hand-selected fruit and meticulous winemaking passion and skill. With a deep cherry red colour and a nose featuring a wealth of complex scents, bliss begins as soon as this vino splashes in the glass. A big, ripe bouquet of bramble fruit is layered with some plum and softer cooked cherry notes. In terms of more complex flavours, with time the wine opens up to reveal coffee, liquorice, cloves and beautiful cigar box nuances. The round and silky soft, medium-bodied palate makes this wine totally addictive. Fine yet grippy tannins add great style and texture, all due to a combination of the wine aging in new and one-year-old American oak hogsheads. The result is soft and subtle. Perhaps similar to a Bordeaux style, it is the gentle integration of oak and time on oak that has beautifully melded this wine’s flavours together. There is a lot going on, however there are no sharp or untidy segmented layers of fruit flavour. One beautiful touch added to this wine is the small amount of estate-grown petit sirah, enhancing tannin structure and adding a wonderful floral lift. This brighter, floral touch perfectly marries this wine to exotic spicy dishes such as Moroccan tagines or fragrant medium heat curries. I could also recommend trying this wine with some tasty cheese and crackers, as it also manages to stand up extremely well with little, if any, food support. Medium-weight, beautifully balanced and rich in luxurious, clean, ripe fruit. This is a zinfandel to write home about; a perfect summer or autumn evening’s drop and it represents value for money all the way.

Rutherglen Estates Renaissance ‘05 Petit Sirah

This, RE’s first Renaissance Petit Sirah, showcases premium fruit from Shelley’s vineyard: a beautifully undulating pocket of the estate, producing superior petit sirah fruit from just 10 rows at the crest of a hill. 2005 was a great year for this varietal, with a cooler ripening temperature intensifying fruit colour, flavour and aromas on the already carefully selected low-yielding and well-balanced vines. The part that excites me most about this wine is not the fact that it’s an amazing example of the varietal (petit sirah, or durif as it’s more commonly referred to Down Under, is best described as big, lush and full-bodied with firm, grippy tanins); in this case it’s the more the balance of complex scents and subtler flavours. Don’t get me wrong, this is a big, bold wine, however its palate and bouquet are so elegant I begin to note this wine as being: ‘refined’, ‘delicate’ and, more simply, ‘exceedingly beautiful’. With a nose that jumps out of the glass, aromas of chocolate, liquorice, cloves, black pepper and vanilla make smelling this beauty a hell of a lot of fun. Taking the next step, a rewarding silky-soft mouth feel is impressive with ultra-fine tannins making this one of Rutherglen Estates’ most collectable and cellarable wines (from up to 10 to 15 years suggested by the winery, although it drinks incredibly well now). If you’re looking to sample some iconic wines from one of Australia’s oldest and most famous wine regions, you’d be hard pressed to do better than any wine in the Renaissance range. No shortcuts, this is the best of the best from Rutherglen. Pure and simple.

Tuileries Complex, 13-35 Drummond Street, Rutherglen, VictoriaTel. 02 6032 7999www.rutherglenestates.com.au


must drink wines

Chrismont La Zona Prosecco NV

How can it be that within just one month of this wine’s release I’ve already attached to it fond memories of friends, family, laughter, tears of joy, great music, summer alpine vistas and beautifully upbeat happy faces? For me, in almost no time at all, this wine has proven to be soul stirring, mood stimulating, instantly captivating and sympathetically heartwarming. This is a wine I’ve been waiting for all my life. All the fun started one very hot spring afternoon at Chrismont’s King Valley vineyard and cellar door during a festival weekend. La Dolce Vita was in full swing: music pumping, sun shining, hundreds of happy faces grazing on an inspired Italian degustation menu and, all the while, smiling as they sipped tall flutes of soothing, chilled Chrismont La Zona Prosecco. Also popular were sunset-layered Bellini cocktails (a classic Venetian drink, made using a blend of prosecco and fresh peach purée), which were doing a fine job of putting heartfelt smiles on pretty girls dressed in brightly-coloured and flowing summer dresses. The scenery was ideal, with distant vine leaves rustling in lush lime greens; golden and yellow tartlet canapés a munching success; and mountain views, the hallmark of the King Valley’s beauty, framing and the day’s relaxed activities. The newly released Chrismont La Zona Prosecco was certainly the wine of the moment. It’s a fresh, lively and more elegant example of any Australian prosecco I’ve tried to date. This is due to talented winemaker Warren Proft’s method of perfecting this drop: fermenting the King Valley grapes in stainless steel to maintain fruit freshness before blending with reserve wine prior to secondary ferment, using the Charmat method, or Metodo Italiano. The Charmat method was invented in and is widely used throughout Italy to produce prosecco. It involves a secondary fermentation of the fruit in stainless steel tanks, or steel vessels covered with vitreous enamel rather than individual bottles, and is bottled under pressure in a continuous process. The final product from Chrismont is a stunning wine. With beautiful, fine beads, the Chrismont La Zona Prosecco is luxurious and exciting to drink. A nose of citrus, green apples and some warmer peach and honey notes confirm this as a quality wine. It showcases well-developed, premium fruit used wisely. The front palate is zingy, bright and brilliantly dry, while a rounder depth of character (due to the reserve wine blended element) lengthens the wine and presents it with finesse and body. All of this is supported by a crisp yet not too powerful acid profile, allowing the bubbles to finish nicely. Prosecco can be consumed as an apéritif, matched to lightly-textured canapés, and also can be paired with lighter, more delicate seafoods such as oysters, scallops and crab. On its own, the Chrismont La Zona Prosseco NV stands up incredibly well, and is extremely moreish. As a final note, it’s well worth pointing out that the packaging of this 20 to 22-dollar (RRP) product (labels, crown and bottle) is stunning. The new custom-trademarked King Valley region prosecco bottle (now in use by several King Valley wineries) is a brilliant concept and will go a long way in terms of highlighting the Valley as a distinctive leader in world prosecco production. But why wait for further hype? This wine is here right now and ready to enjoy.

251 Upper King River Road, Cheshunt, VictoriaTel. 03 5729 8220 www.chrismont.com.au

VICTORIA

15 REASONS TO GO TO

Victoria’s foodie-focussed North East region is at the top of Essentials’ hit list for premium self-drive adventures.


DECADENT DEGUSTATIONHervey Bay scallops in half shell with konbu dressing, nigella seeds and a shredded daikon, carrot and green chilli salad. Cirko V ‘The Ring Master’ Viognier 2008 @ Gigi’s of Beechworth

NORTH EAST

WORDS EMMA WESTWOOD PHOTOGRPHY JAMIE DURRANT

People come from far and wide to dine at Gigi’s, making this restaurant a culinary Mecca for the North East. Chef Megan Chalmers and owner Allan Parker have worked hard to

1FEAST OF THE GODS 3

maintain an exemplary reputation, which now includes — drum roll — the introduction of a five or six-course degustation menu for those with a hard-earned hunger. Enjoy temptations like confit Murray Valley pork belly with scallop ceviche, apple celery mille feuille and apple and crystallised ginger sauce, as well as the option of wines to match each course. 69 Ford Street, Beechworth, Victoria. Tel. 03 5728 2575 Web. www.gigisofbeechworth.com

2EAGLE EYE4Eaglerange Estates’s north-facing vineyard proudly treads an eco line,

a fact that proprietor Frank Ivone believes comes reflected in his wines. The property runs on solar power, the grapes grow without irrigation (except what nature intended) and everything is recycled, even the residue from pressings go back into the rose garden. Still, Eaglerange produces award-winning product, with the tempranillo taking out a four-star top of category award recently, while also making the grade for Winestate’s Best of Victoria selection. When rolling up to the cellar door, take heed of the sign: Just give us a minute — we won’t be far. 228 Happy Valley Road, Ovens, Victoria. Tel. 03 5752 2518Web. www.happyvalley75.com.au/eaglerange/

3GOLD RUSH HEART 5Bruce and Annie Holm’s two-person enterprise takes its intriguing name from the old goldmine that runs underneath. Apparently, you’ll only tap into a quartz vein these days —

the ‘gold’ grows on the vines. Releasing their first vintage in 2001, Ringer Reef is a relatively new winery and one that holds tightly to its exclusivity. You’re lucky to find the Ringer Reef label beyond the local postcode, which means purchasing one of their luscious drops is the ultimate souvenir from the region — not to mention the memories you’ll have of fantastic views from their cellar door across the Buckland to beautiful Mount Buffalo. 6835 Great Alpine Road, Porepunkah, Victoria. Tel. 03 5756 2805 Web. www.ringerreef.com.au

4FEED THE MAN MEAT 3When making your way to your self-contained accommodation, stop off at Hook and Spoon for the most succulent meats and meals sourced directly from proprietor

Sandy Leatham’s own farm and processed in the 123-year-old butcher shop. At this quaint, unassuming shop — no tables and chairs for loitering — choose from free-range, long-hung beef and mutton, brilliant pies and terrines, tender steak and boutique gluten and preservative-free snags. 16b Carrier Street, Benalla, Victoria. Tel. 03 5762 2044 Web. www.hookandspoon.com.au

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At Milawa’s famous gourmet crossroads, nestled beside Chrismont’s cellar door and the bakery, sits something of a revelation. Sure, we all know olives are one of the most versatile and highly flavoursome of fruits, but The Olive Shop takes that knowledge to a whole other level. Have you ever spread your toast with olive jam, for instance? From cosmetics and health products to tapenades, dukkahs and all manner of condiments, this shop is bursting with olive paraphernalia and gorgeous gift ideas. Just like a wine-tasting cellar door, work your way along the oils on the counter and take note of the different qualities. Snow Road, Milawa, Victoria. Tel 03 5727 3887Web. www.theoliveshop.com.au



Just moments from the bustling Beechworth tourist hub is the picturesque pastoral enclave of Stanley where Genevieve Milham’s visionary PlaneTrees Lodge is a 6SOMEWHERE TO REST YOUR HEAD 4

work-of-art in progress. The currently completed stage has seen her throw open the doors to a funkified log cabin retreat, which boasts the ‘rusticism’ of bush living with the utmost luxuries of modern-day design. Four to eight people can be comfortably accommodated in this self-contained lodging. Over the next few years, Genevieve will be introducing another B&B to the property, as well as further garden ‘rooms’ where guests are encouraged to sniff, pick and fall into a world of sensory hedonism. This is living. 52 Stanley Road, Stanley, Victoria. Tel. 03 5728 6589 Web. www.planetrees.com.au

7 ITALIAN STYLE4With Italian blood flowing through their veins, the Ciccone family opted for

their vineyard’s specific location in the King Valley because it recalled so vividly the pastoral perfection of their former homeland. That was back in 1968. Today, Pat Ciccone has built on his father’s original passion, managing to encapsulate in his bottles everything that’s good about this cool-climate region. The Ciccones moved their cellar door to an old butcher’s shop — a building with an illustrious history itself, dating back to 1890 — in the heart of Milawa. For the traveller, this not only provides an opportunity to drink excellent wine, but also enjoy meals made from the fresh produce that’s shot Milawa to fame. 62 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Road, Milawa, Victoria. Tel. 03 5727 3878 Web.www.cicconewines.com.au

8KING OF THE WORLD 5The beauty of boutique wineries in Victoria’s North East is the possibility of speaking one-on-one with the winemakers and truly sharing a passion for the grape with those who make wine

for a living. While running quite a sizeable establishment, Trevor Knaggs at King River Estate is about as hands-on as you can get. ‘I do everything the old world way, including making wine on wild yeast,’ says Trevor of his entrepreneurial willingness to take risks, which has seen him move into biodynamic wine production, taking these delicious drops to a new level. Enjoy Trevor’s stories while taste-testing from elegant crystal glasses. Wangaratta–Whitfield Road, King Valley, Victoria. Tel. 03 5729 3689Web. www.kingriverestate.com.au

9FLAVOURED BY PROVINCIAL FRANCE 4Behind the wisteria frontage lays a unique establishment that oozes French savoir-faire while honouring the attributes of the local region. Owner Annemarie Harris considers her ‘pub’ to

be three businesses in one — a bar, bistro and beautiful French-styled accommodation. As a sommelier, Annemarie’s husband, Shane, has lent his nose to a wine list that would be the envy of urban restaurants. The food comes with a leaning towards the produce of Stanley, which means cherries and berries take centre stage over the summer months. The Stanley also acts as a ‘cellar door’ for organic saffron growers Michael and Annette Nuck, with this precious spice making a strong statement on the menu. 1 Wallace Street, Stanley, Victoria. Tel. 03 5728 6502 Web. www.thestanley.com.au

10GROW YOUR OWN ORCHARD 3As well as bottling their own range of quality olive-based products, EV Olives is on a mission: to send you home with an olive tree — be it one specimen or a whole orchard. Hardy, forgiving in these hotter months and equally as happy in a tub as the soil, olive trees — with their silvery green leaves — are an attractive, evergreen plant that don’t drop leaves. A visit to EV Olives gives you the opportunity to meet the olive producers, sample their famous kalamata table olives and also taste the oil that had the judges recently awarding a Gold Medal at the National Extra Virgin Olive Oils Awards. 203 Everton Road, Markwood, Victoria. Tel. 03 5727 0209Web. www.evolives.com

FOX ON THE RUNThe resident wine lover at King River Estate


10TALL TIMBER

Master suite at PlaneTrees Lodge


FOOD, WINE & LAVENDERBarwidgee Lavender farm, café-cottage and gift and skincare shop

Beautiful Barwidgee Lavender is one of those little-known treasures. With sculpted lavender fields curving out front and the stormy blue of the mountains acting as

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backdrop, sitting on the verandah of Jo and John’s white café-cottage is a life-affirming experience. Enjoy light snacks, drink in aromatic teas and coffee, and sniff your way through their skin and body products — all boasting lavender as the not-so secret ingredient, which has been propagated, planted, harvested and distilled on the property. Make sure you try the newest addition to their range: olive oil. If you don’t feel relaxed here, you never will. 714 Happy Valley Road, Rosewhite, Victoria. Tel. 03 5753 5335 Web. www.barwidgeelavender.com.au

12LANDSCAPE4North East Victoria Australia is blessed with

glorious scenery and without fail presents sheer driving pleasure and excitement to those keen to press the pedal to the metal. Excellent driving conditions married with views of lush vineyards, craggy mountain peaks, evergreen foliage and rich golden sunlit rivers are a spectacle to be admired as you cruise through this indulgent little piece of provincial Victoria. If variety is the spice of life then North East Victoria is designed to please. A mix of river-flats, micro-valleys, mountain passes and plateaus are just some of the varying terrain that you’ll encounter. Given the variations, Essentials suggests you come prepared: snow-chains, well-serviced vehicle, good driving music, your best buddies and plenty of time. Enjoy! 13BRINGING IT BACK TO BASICS 5

Not everyone travelling through North East Victoria looks for a highfalutin experience, which makes the English-style Tatong Tavern a breath of country air. Be greeted by the

telltale call of cockatoos as you trundle into the main bar where cricket accolades and community noticeboard hang on the wall. Word of mouth has been spreading like wildfire about new chef Daniel Brunning, whose restaurant and bar meals (Wednesday through to Sunday) are simply amazing and filling tables to capacity. Visit on the first Saturday of every month for local food sampling and the country hospitality of the Village Market. 2581 Benalla Tatong Road, Tatong, Victoria. Tel. 03 5767 2210Web. www.tatongtavern.com

14TART AND TOTALLY TERRIFIC 3As one of the region’s favourite culinary pitstops, Plump Harvest Produce creates delicious foods from the Alpine seasonal bounties. They’ve attracted a lot

of attention recently, in particular for an auspicious honour: Best Lemon Tart awarded by The Age Foodies Guide to Melbourne 2010. As quoted by the guide, ‘This lemon tart alone is enough to warrant the road trip to Myrtleford’ and Essentials would like to concur with a resounding hear hear! Make sure you accompany your slice of tart with a cup of Plump Harvest’s equally sensational coffee. 72 Myrtle Street, Myrtleford, Victoria. Tel. 03 5752 2257 Web. www.plumpharvestproduce.com.au

15 TURN OF THE BEATEN TRACK4While winding through gum trees along dirt roads looking for this vineyard, you may think you’ve missed the mark. But no. Tinkers Hill is one of those places that takes a bit of searching, but is all the better for its solitary position and shaking of pretension. Husband and wife team James and Rhonda Taylor have five wine varieties available for tasting (including their daughter Kristy’s label, Cirko-V), a proper espresso machine and a gourmet platter on the menu boasting the best in local produce. To sit under their terrace — the perfect place to enjoy the peace and quiet of the valley — is something of a privilege. 84 Sugarloaf Lane, Beechworth, Victoria. Tel. 03 5728 3327Web. www.tinkershillwines.com.au Please note: Weekends 11am–5pm only.


Red Ramia Trading cleverly boasts of its own ‘little slice of China’s Great Wall,’ referring not only to the myriad of exotic antiques within, but also to the mind-blowing, 300-year-old Chinese gates that welcome each soon-to-be mind-boggled shopper. After eagerly searching and almost losing myself in both indoor and outdoor areas, I have come to understand that using the word ‘little’ in this phrase is playfully sarcastic. Nestled in Myrtleford, the lap of Mount Buffalo, Red Ramia Trading offers everything from architectural wonders for the enthusiastic renovator or builder to huge, romantic lanterns, intricate pottery, hand forged mosaic mirrors, silk textiles, hand woven rugs, swords and unique furniture and chests, all in a kaleidoscope of colours. Ironically, enchanted shoppers and curious passersby rummage through this antique Moroccan, Chinese and Indian treasure chest in search of their own personal treasure to creatively modernise their lives. Moroccan influence especially has become increasingly popular in recent times to complement a modern dwelling. Its typically bright mosaics and geometrical shapes are sure to embellish and add a touch of luxury to any room.

red ramia tradingEXOTIC IMPORTS

CREATING A MOROCCAN ALFRESCO DINING SPACE

Keen to rock the Kasbah at your place? Essentials has put together the ultimate alfresco dining look using the best of imported Moroccan touches from Red Ramia Trading.

Moroccan plates, twice fired in kiln and hand painted. Stainless steel chairs, India. Leather pouffe, hand stitched and embossed, sold unfilled, Morocco. Leather timber camel seat, Morocco. Berber runner, loom woven, Morocco. Hand carved tall chest, one drawer, two shelves, teakwood, India. Handmade cushion covers, India, sold unfilled. With intricate beading and sequins, Vase, hand painted, twice-fired terracotta, Morocco, Zelig table, steel, cement, hand painted tiles, Morocco. 600 year old door, timber and steel, Morocco.

RED RAMIA’S TOP FIVE MOROCCAN MUST-HAVES1. A zelig table. This is a must for truly setting a Moroccan theme. Zelig tables are made upside-down, starting with a steel ring with tiles arranged inside. Cement is poured on top, it is reinforced and then turned over to grout the brightly-coloured tiles.

2. Plenty of Moroccan lanterns to create mood lighting and throw out strong, bright colours.

3. A citrus tree. Not only can it provide shade and add more colour with its fruit, but it may also be helpful in preparing the meal you enjoy in this space. Lemons in particular are widely used in Moroccan cuisine.

4. A fountain, possibly using some Moroccan tiles or coloured lights.

5. Wrought iron decorative pieces to hang on the surrounding walls or to place in the garden.Red Ramia Trading

Open 7 daysTel. 03 5752 1944145 Great Alpine Road, Myrtleford, Victoria

Café FezOpen Mon-Thurs 8.30am-5pm, Fri-Sat 8.30am-3pm, Sun 10am-3pm Tel. 03 5751 1155


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ARGENTINIAN RAWHIDE Escape from the everyday grind and feel the textures of Argentina in your own home. With this authentic Argentinian cattle rancher’s look, you can transport yourself and your guests to a classy, modern retreat.

Classic butterfly chairs in cattle hide, Argentina. Bargain: quality mature cattle hides, assorted breed colours, Argentina. Hand carved timber vases, India. Rustic elm side table, China. Fire engine-red teardrop figurines, framed in black, China. Designer ply mesh floor lamp, chrome tripod legs, China.

Tucked away behind Red Ramia’s gates is Café Fez, an inspired caravanserai operated by Red’s two daughters Amanda and Minnette. Cooking Middle-Eastern dishes to recipes passed down through the family for generations, ingredients including fresh herbs, palate teasing spices and specialty breads colour a carnivalesque dining experience. Highly recommended, the grilled haloumi cheese with bruschetta-style topping is dressed with olive oil and lemon juice. It is tangy, salty and moreish. The secret to this dish is the squeezed lemon juice, creating a racy, bright mouthful with every bite. A sweeter, luscious bruschetta adds fragrance and balance. Café Fez’s chargrilled eggplant topped with yoghurt is a unique starter on the menu. Crispy out the outside; warm, sweet and soft on the inside. This is a great and simple way to enjoy eggplant. Sliky-smooth garlic yoghurt adds a lively zing. One mouthful of this piquant combination will have you returning to Fez time and again. Getting the day off to a good start at Fez begins with an inspirational, traditional Lebanese breakfast. Featuring fresh za’atar herb bread (topped with virgin olive oil, oregano, thyme, sumac and sesame seeds), sliced ripe tomato and homemade labneh (strained yoghurt cheese); this little brekky bite is a light, healthy and tasty option. ‘This is what people in Lebanon would eat for breakfast every day,’ says Minnette. Given the quality, flavours and exotic textures, we can totally understand — a daily breakfast ritual of divine proportions.

café fezMIDDLE-EASTERN DINING


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HAPPY DINERSEsther and Grace Cho

ABOVEThai Style Chicken Pattie & Grilled Squid Salad served with Red Nunjin Sauce

COOL CHEFSHamish Nugent , Will

Parfitt and front of house manager, Kylie Bertch

BELOWVeggie patch with a view

of Mount buffalo


proudlyporepunkah

Follow the scenic Great Alpine road towards Bright, and you will discover rolling mountains, kilometres of unspoiled pastures and acres of well-kept vineyards —

countryside strongly resembling Alsace, a region in France where one man’s dream blossomed and developed into what has since become a lifetime passion. It was one dewy morning while picking grapes in the early sun of Alsace, that Kel Boynton realised he could see himself doing this exact thing for the rest of his life. Returning to Australia to build his dream, he established himself in the beautiful Ovens Valley in Victoria, and with each day spent surrounded in its beauty, his reasoning for doing so became more and more lucid. Like the Alsace region of France, the Ovens Valley boasts four distinct seasons. Spring is celebrated for its warm breezes and summer for its long, glorious days. Honestly, not enough can be said of autumn here, probably the most charming of the seasons with its gold and crimson debris splashing the grounds with colour. And finally, there is winter, and though winters here are cold, they are equally as beautiful with snow-capped mountains lining the backdrop. With the extraordinary climatic conditions and natural landscape, the Ovens Valley proves to be an amazing canvas for growing wines and food. Nestled among this stunning landscape, you will find Boynton’s Winery, home to Feathertop wines. In 1989, when Kel made the decision to realise his dream, he would never have imagined that 20 years on, with wife, Melbourne architect and project manager Janelle Marsden, by his side, how much success he would enjoy. Like many success stories, Boynton’s Winery endured tough beginnings, with little money, rough terrain and infertile and acidic soils. While Mother Nature has thrown even further challenges in the ensuing years of floods, frosts and fires, Kel’s determination has allowed the business to remain a thriving enterprise. What keeps this business thriving is the desire for continual growth and development, and if you are ever around the property you will notice that there is always a new project in the making. 2009 marks the 20th birthday of the establishment of the winery, and to celebrate, the Boyntons have begun their latest project: after recognising that food is an integral part of the overall winery experience, they have relaunched their cafe. This summer, after welcoming two well-renowned chefs, Boynton’s Winery will host Proudly Porepunkah. Chef Ikuei Arakane, also known as KinSan, formerly of Taxi Dining and 100 Mile Café has joined forces with Hamish Nugent of Tsubo at Dinner Plain, combining their exciting international experience to create a breathtaking Japanese-inspired menu. ‘I am really excited that KinSan and I have been able to create something special that reflects both our passions,’ Hamish says. Hamish began his career in a Thai restaurant, and this has always had a strong influence on his work. It was in 2007 that Michael Ryan, of Beechworth’s Provenance restaurant, invited Hamish to jointly operate the Japanese restaurant Tsubo at Dinner Plain, (now his own). Hamish shares talant and technique with Michael, including the ability to marry locally-sourced produce with delicate Japanese cooking techniques to create simple yet ‘moreish’ dishes. Inspiration also came from Katherine Sullivan, the chef from Ox & Hound bistro, a small French-style restaurant in Beechworth. Katherine’s ideas — although seemingly eccentric — were, in Hamish’s mind, truly brilliant.

‘Everything Katherine uses is hand-raised and I love that she doesn’t try to oversell herself. She is just happy delivering excellent quality food, quietly,’ Hamish says. Proudly Porepunkah features a lunch menu reflecting KinSan and Hamish’s passion for food. The menu offers a choice of two courses, either entrée and main or main and dessert, accompanied with matching Feathertop wines all for 45 dollars per head. ‘I look forward to enjoying the freedom of this menu. We are a farm with a restaurant, not a restaurant with a farm, and the beauty of it all is that each week we can move forward, proud of what we have delivered and able to evolve with the availability of produce, making each week’s menu unique.’ Each course will have several selections and will be dependent on the availability of what is fresh from the farm and can be sourced locally. You could expect suckling pork belly from Oxenberry farm, where the pork is cooked slowly until spoonable, yet has a hard, crispy skin for the perfect texture combination. The pork is accompanied by juicy pressed melon, wild peppery watercress, pickled cucumber and apple cider from Beechworth. While the methods and ingredients are Japanese-influenced, the end result is a Modern Australian dish with light, fresh and clean flavors evoking the spirit of summer as you sit back and relax on the lower terrace, taking time to soak in the surroundings of Mount Buffalo and the beautiful Ovens Valley. This area of dining is fully serviced and bookings are essential as seating is limited. The DIY Deli will also be available for something a little more casual, allowing visitors to create their own platters from a selection of fresh, locally grown and homemade produce. The Deli is open daily from 10am until 5pm. The Proudly Porepunkah experience will be open seven days throughout January, 12pm until 3pm.

Open 7 days, 12pm-3pm6619 Great Alpine Road, Porepunkah, VictoriaTel. 03 5756 2356www.boynton.com.au

Rebekka Hodges explores the stylish Japanese-inspired menu at Boynton’s Winery.

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT

The DIY Deli

The DIY Deli will also be available for something a little more casual, allowing you to create your own platters from a selection of fresh, locally grown & homemade produce. Deli – daily, 10am – 5pm

FRESH SEAFOOD INLANDKaffir Lime & Chilli Seafood Broth


let’sdolunchtreviso, melbourne CBD

What a neat little bistro is Melbourne’s Treviso. Situated in the basement of an early 1900s bank building in Bank Place, with Italian Ferrarelle piccolo mineral water bottles lining the ceiling

level windowsills, the mood is cosy, and the light, coloured lime green and red as it filters through a collection of iconic wine bottles and glass decanters. Grange, Dom Pérignon, Mount Mary and Baileys. Corks, filters, glasses and Italian digestives — they’re all here and tell a tale of many successful business lunches, and some possibly ludicrous. Legal disputes, share market floats, international mining deals and all the ups and downs of the world economy — it’s all in a day’s trade, according to Wangaratta-born owner and dedicated foodie, James Valentini. James and partner Jules have operated Treviso for now over seven years and, with new interior renovations starting to take shape, I sit down to enjoy a little slice of CBD luncheon madness — all presented with service and style, of course! On the wine list is a crowd favourite, Bob Curtis’ Yileena Park 2006 Yarra Valley Chardonnay. Bob, the Cabernet King, as we like to call him at Essentials, is a proud creator of big, new world wines with style and finesse. It is pleasing, however, to sample a more easygoing, zesty, citrusy and delicate wine from Bob’s stables. It is a soft, medium-bodied wine with just enough acid balance, well suited to the oven-baked Atlantic salmon with wilted summer vegetables resting on a bed of garlic and parmesan mash, finished with a lemon butter sauce. Treviso executive chef Tony Zappiello gets this dish just right. Not over played with, nothing complicated. The fish is tender and well-seasoned with crispy-crunchy skin and a freshness that is pleasing. The wilted veg (julienne carrot, celery, red capsicum) are lifted and made more fragrant with slices of fennel and spinach leaves colouring the mix. While basic enough, the mash adds a hearty and satisfying feel to the dish, although depending on how heavy you’d like your meal to be you can take it or leave it. Perhaps the best part of the dish is the simple fresh squeeze of lemon; this, and the accompanying lemon butter. The lemon is a perfect match to the wine, and makes the salmon as rewarding as the thirst-quenching, spright of the chardonnay’s more citrus edge. Simple, affordable, elegant and very moreish, Treviso and the Yileena Park certainly hit the mark. For a quick bite in comfort and style, a walk down, underground Melbourne’s beautifully historic Bank Place is a wise and easygoing idea. Save me a seat.

Open for lunch only Monday-Friday, 11.30am-3pm

Basement, Charter House, 4 Bank Place, Melbourne, Victoria Tel. 03 9670 8833www.treviso.com.au

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY JAMIE DURRANT

• New summer menu with lots of seafood

• Try our Pasta Mista (mix ‘n match three pastas)

• Outside catering by request

106 GAVIN STREET, BRIGHT, VICTORIA. OPEN MON-SAT EVENINGS 5.30PM ‘TILL LATETel. 03 5750 1861 • M. 0424 335 405 • Web. www.soleeluna .com.au

art + passion

Essentials Magazine Mid-Summer 2010

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Transcript of Essentials Magazine Mid-Summer 2010