Great Lakes Fruit, Vegetable & Farm Market EXPO December 9-11, 2008

DeVo Place Convention Center, Grand Rapids, MI

Enology [Wine Making] Workshop

Tuesday afternoon 2:00 pm

Where: Grand Gallery (lower level) Room D

CCA Credits: CM(1.0)

Moderator: Paul Jenkins, Small Fruit Education Coordinator, MSU

2:00 p.m.

Managing Wine Quality in the Lab

• Ellie Butz, Vintage Winery Consultants, W. Lafayette, IN

3:00 p.m.

Managing Green Flavors in the Vineyard and Winery

• Chris Gerling, Food Science and Technology Dept., Cornell Univ.

4:00 p.m.

Educational Wine Evaluation: Assessing Herbaceous Flavors (Commercial Wine Makers Only)

• Paul Jenkins, Small Fruit Education Coordinator, MSU

MANAGING WINE QUALITY IN THE LABORATORY:

Ellie Butz, Vintage Winery Consultants, West Lafayette, Indiana www.vintagewineryconsultants.com

elliebutz@gmail.com  

Contrary to a favorite viticulture claim, fine wine is NOT made in the vineyard! The finest grapes can become substandard wine very quickly in an unmanaged winery with a tradition of haphazard record keeping, careless sanitation procedures, and lack of attention to wines during fermentation and aging.

When the winery laboratory is a designated space, equipped with at least the minimal analytical tools and an individual trained to perform accurate tests and make intelligent interpretations of the results, quality wines are the reward.

This presentation will begin with laboratory designs and analytical procedures for different sized (wine volume & pocketbook) wineries. We will discuss criteria for quality in wine and how information gleaned from various analytical procedures, including sensory, can be used to develop quality and ensure stability. Laboratory based methods for evaluating sanitation, appraising the raw products, managing fermentations, and making all decisions regarding optimization of visual, aromatic and flavor components of each product will be presented. The audience is encouraged to participate with specific problems and suggestions.

 

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MANAGING GREEN FLAVORS IN THE VINEYARD AND WINERY Chris Gerling

Food Science and Technology Dept. Cornell University

Red wines made from under-ripe fruit are frequently described as being “green.” This descriptor is often accompanied by words like “grassy,” “leafy,” and/ or “vegetative.” It’s not too surprising, therefore, to discover that certain grape varieties, especially the Bordeaux trio of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, have been found to contain the same chemicals as green bell peppers, asparagus and peas. Methoxypyrazines (MPs), compounds detectable to our noses at extremely low concentrations (parts per trillion), are found in both grapes and vegetables and play a role in the “green” character that many wine tasters find unappealing. MPs are not the whole story, however, and it is necessary to look at vineyard management practices, winemaking techniques and even flavor chemistry to understand why our glass sometimes contains plums and why it sometimes contains bell peppers.

Current research is examining the accumulation and degradation of MPs in the vineyard, as well as how cultural practices might impact these trajectories. At present it appears that pre-veraison accumulation is the possible control point for MP levels, but since so many other essential ripening processes are occurring post-veraison, this later period can’t be neglected either. Work is also being done to tease apart how we perceive these chemicals and whether or not the wines are the result of an accumulation of unripe flavors or a lack of ripe flavors, or both. Chemicals often suppress the perception of one another when combined, and this phenomenon may explain why wines with relatively similar chemical make-ups provide such different flavor profiles. There are also a number of winemaking techniques that may be employed to help moderate the green character as much as possible. Extraction of color, flavors, tannins, etc. should probably be limited in the case of “green” fruit, as you can only extract the compounds that are present: good or bad, ripe or otherwise. It goes without saying, of course, that the best way to make wine with ripe flavors is to start with grapes with ripe flavors.

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ingle

“apple

peel”

odor

Com

posi

te o

f:

2-h

exe

nal

H

exana

3-h

exe

nal

Ace

tald

ehyde

Eth

yl buty

rate

Eth

yl hexanoate

H

exanol . . . . .

. . . . and o

n a

nd o

n a

nd o

n a

nd o

n

Suppre

ssio

n /

mask

ing (

com

mon)

Additiv

e e

ffect

s (r

are

)

Synerg

ism

(never)

Odor

Chara

cter

Intensity of Odor Character

“fru

ity”

“sharp

” “a

pple

”

“alm

ond” “g

reen”

“banana”

“flo

ral”

Odor

Chara

cter

Intensity of Odor Character

“cle

an

cloth

es”

“candle

”

“card

board

” “oily

”

“sta

le”

“ranci

d”

“cle

an

cloth

es”

“candle

” “c

ard

board

” “oily

”

“sta

le”

“ranci

d”

“fru

ity”

“sharp

”

“apple

”

“alm

ond” “g

reen”

“banana”

“flo

ral”

+

= ?

??

“fru

ity”

“gre

en”

“candle

” “c

ard

board

” “oily

”

Many a

rom

as

are

suppre

ssed

The t

ota

l perc

eption is

not

the s

um

of

the p

art

s

The t

ota

l aro

ma inte

nsi

ty is

less

than t

he s

um

of

the p

art

s

Re

su

lts in

asp

ara

gu

s,

pe

an

ut,

be

ll p

ep

pe

r o

ff-f

lavo

rs

Fo

r m

ore

, ch

eck o

ut

Bro

ck U

niv

ers

ity’s

Co

ol C

lima

te

Oe

no

log

y a

nd

Vitic

ultu

re I

nstitu

te w

eb

site

http://m

uexte

nsio

n.m

issouri.e

du/

Re

sp

on

sib

le f

or

“la

dyb

ug

ta

int”

Pre

do

min

an

t M

P is I

PM

P

Ta

int

no

tice

ab

le a

t 1

be

etle

/L ju

ice

Bell

pepper

Asp

ara

gus

Melo

n Citru

s

Aro

ma

Inte

nsi

ty

Data

adopte

d f

rom

Pic

kering, et.

al. (

AJE

V, 2

004)

Contr

ol W

ine

Win

e w

ith ladybugs

- O

ften t

he c

om

pound is

not

dete

cted a

t le

vels

where

it

could

be d

ete

cted b

efo

re

- The c

om

pound w

ill u

sually

suppre

ss o

ther

com

pounds

- O

ccasi

onally

, m

ay r

esu

lt in a

dditiv

e e

ffect

s w

ith o

ther

flavor

com

pounds

- Synerg

ism

, “w

hole

is

gre

ate

r th

an t

he s

um

of

the p

art

s” is

never

obse

rved

Fundam

enta

l Theore

m o

f Calc

ulu

s

Fundam

enta

l Theore

m o

f W

ine A

rom

a

“Vegeta

l”,

“Herb

ace

ous”

“F

ruity”, “

Sw

eet”

Unripe a

nd r

ipe a

rom

as

are

mutu

ally

suppre

ssiv

e

“Vegeta

l”, “H

erb

ace

ous”

“F

ruity”, “

Sw

eet”

Bala

nce

d w

ines

lie a

long t

his

fr

uity/v

egeta

l co

ntinuum

Sauvig

non

Bla

nc

Musc

at

Most

Dry

Reds

Carm

enere

Desc

ripto

rs u

sually

ass

oci

ate

d w

ith “

fruity”

Cherr

y, b

err

y, jam

my,

flo

ral, s

weet,

vanill

a

Desc

ripto

rs u

sually

ass

oci

ate

d w

ith “

vegeta

l”

Gre

en p

epper, h

erb

ace

ous,

asp

ara

gus,

cabbage, m

ust

y

Dokoozl

ian [

of

Gallo

] sa

id t

his

dem

and h

as

arise

n a

s w

e'v

e

been "

ham

mere

d b

y A

ust

ralia

,"

and t

he c

onsu

mer

pre

fere

nce

fo

r popula

r-price

d w

ines

with a

n

abse

nce

of

negatives

(nota

bly

vegeta

l aro

mas

or

hin

ts)

. . .

- W

ine B

usi

ness

Month

ly,

3/1

5/2

005

M

onote

rpenes

(flo

ral, c

itru

s)

Som

e o

ak c

om

pounds

(vanill

a, ca

ram

el)

Est

ers

(apple

, banana, ch

err

y, f

ruit s

ala

d)

C-1

3 N

oriso

pre

noid

s

Vola

tile

Thio

ls (

pass

ionfr

uit a

nd g

rapefr

uit)

3-A

lkyl-2

-me

tho

xyp

yra

zin

es (

MP

)

De

tectio

n t

hre

sh

old

fo

r IB

MP

2

pa

rts p

er

trill

ion

(w

ate

r)

5-1

5 p

art

s p

er

trill

ion

(w

ine

) N

N

O C

H 3

R

R =

alk

yl g

rou

p

Pre

dom

inant

MP

in g

rapes

Pre

dom

inant M

P in

Asia

n lady b

eetle

Roujo

u d

e B

oubee,

et.al. (

2000)

Fifty

Bo

rde

au

x

an

d L

oire

re

ds,

jud

ge

d b

y e

xp

ert

pa

ne

l

De

tectio

n

thre

sh

old

~1

5 p

pt

Wh

y d

o d

iffe

ren

t w

ine

s h

ave

diffe

ren

t M

P le

ve

ls?

Win

em

akin

g?

Vitic

ultu

re?

En

viro

nm

en

t?

IBM

P c

once

ntr

ation

Green Pepper Aroma

IBM

P p

eaks a

t or

just

befo

re v

era

ison

IBMPconcentration

Sim

ilar

to a

cid p

rofile

, opposi

te o

f su

gar

pro

file

Tim

e �

Best w

ay to low

er

MP

conte

nt of w

ines is to

sta

rt w

ith low

MP

s in g

rapes

What affects

MP

conte

nt in

the v

ineyard

?

Pre

-ve

rais

on

Accu

mu

latio

n o

f u

na

ttra

ctive

an

d

un

pa

lata

ble

co

mp

ou

nd

s

Vera

ison a

nd P

ost

-vera

ison:

Degra

dation o

f unpala

table

co

mpounds,

acc

um

ula

tion

of

appealin

g c

om

pounds

Be

rrie

s w

an

t to

be

ea

ten

an

d h

ave

se

ed

s d

isp

ers

ed

Berr

ies

do n

ot

want

to b

e

eate

n

-� V

isu

al (C

olo

r)

-� G

usta

tory

(S

we

etn

ess in

cre

ase

s)

-� G

usta

tory

(A

cid

ity d

ecre

ase

)

-� C

he

mis

the

tic (

astr

ing

en

cy d

ecre

ase

s)

-� Ta

ctile

(b

err

y s

oft

en

ing

)

-� Acce

ssib

ility

of

be

rry (

ea

sily

re

mo

ve

d f

rom

pe

dic

le)

-� O

lfa

cto

ry (

accu

mu

latio

n o

f m

on

ote

rpe

ne

s)

-� O

lfact

ory

(decr

ease

in m

eth

oxypyra

zines)

Alle

n e

t al.,

1998

Shadin

g o

f berr

ies

incr

ease

d M

P’s

at

vera

ison

and a

t harv

est

Incr

easi

ng

IBM

P

Incr

easi

ng

IBM

P

Leaf

Layer

Num

ber

Leaf

Layer

Num

ber

0

1

2

3

+

0

1

2

3

+

Vera

ison

Harv

est

Methoxypyrazines (ng/L)

Methoxypyrazines (ng/L)

MP

in

Sh

ad

ed

vs.

Un

sh

ad

ed

Clu

ste

rs

- Tim

ing o

f M

P form

ation a

nd

degra

dation

- Tim

ing o

f w

hen d

iffe

rence

s

betw

een s

haded a

nd

unsh

aded c

lust

ers

manifest

- In

tra-v

ine a

nd inte

r-vin

e

variation

Exp

erim

enta

l desi

gn e

limin

ate

s vi

ne-t

o-v

ine b

iolo

gic

al va

riation

I. R

yona, B. Pan, A. Lakso

, and G

. Sack

s

Shaded

Unsh

aded

Shaded

19 d

ays

16 d

ays

13 d

ays

Sam

plin

g p

erf

orm

ed f

rom

early in

berr

y d

evelo

pm

ent

I. R

yona, B. Pan, A. Lakso

, and G

. Sack

s

Unsh

aded

Shaded

0

0

100

200

IBMP (ppt)

Week p

ost

-blo

om

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

30

60

Days

post

-vera

ison

I. R

yona, B. Pan, A. Lakso

, and G

. Sack

s

IBM

P p

re-v

era

ison (

ppt)

IBMP at harvest (ppt)

0

10

20 0

100

200

I. R

yona, B. Pan, and G

. Sack

s

Fourt

een s

ites

thro

ughout

the

Fin

ger

Lakes

S. Ennahli,

G. Sack

s, a

nd J

. Vanden H

euvel

S. Ennahli,

G. Sack

s, a

nd J

. Vanden H

euvel

Leaf

rem

ova

l at

berr

y s

et

reduce

d

MP’s

Cool cl

imate

Coole

r te

mpera

ture

s genera

lly c

orr

ela

ted

with h

igher

conce

ntr

ation o

f M

Ps

Lace

y e

t al.,

1991

Aust

ralia

Fra

nce

N

Z

Methoxypyrazines (ng/L)

Roujo

u d

e B

oubee

Irrigate

d v

ines

pro

duce

d f

ruit

with h

igher

MPs

Perh

aps

due t

o

incr

ease

d

shadin

g a

nd/o

r in

crease

d v

igor

Noble

et

al.,

1995

Com

pariso

n o

f pru

nin

g w

eig

hts

and I

BM

P

conce

ntr

ation a

t five s

ites

Incr

ease

d v

igor

resu

lted in

hig

her

MPs

MP

�C

once

ntra

tion�

Prun

ing

�w

eigh

t�

Site

IBMP (ng/L) Pruning Weight (kg/vine)

Titra

table

Aci

dity (

g/L

)

IBMP (ppt)

IBMP (ppt)

Brix

R2=

0.1

1

R2=

0.0

1

Avoid

vitam

in a

nd n

itro

gen d

efici

enci

es

Tem

pera

ture

contr

ol

Mic

robio

logic

al co

ntr

ol

Pro

longed lees

conta

ct c

an b

e r

isky (

esp

eci

ally

larg

e

tanks,

low

O2, gro

ss lees)

M

eth

ionol

Aro

ma

: b

ake

d p

ota

to

Th

resh

old

: 0

.5 p

pm

Meth

yl m

erc

apta

n

Aro

ma

: ca

bb

ag

e,

on

ion

Th

resh

old

: 1

pp

b

Hydro

gen s

ulfid

e

Aro

ma

: ro

tte

n e

gg

Th

resh

old

: 1

0 p

pb

Com

pound

Pro

pert

ies

With

in a

clu

ste

r, c

on

ce

ntr

atio

n o

f M

Ps is:

Ste

ms >

> s

kin

s >

se

ed

s >

> ju

ice

/pu

lp

Po

or

de

ste

mm

ing

ca

n r

esu

lt in

hig

he

r M

P le

ve

ls

Ju

ice

cla

rifica

tio

n (

se

ttlin

g a

nd

ra

ckin

g)

will

re

du

ce

MP

co

nte

nt

~5

0%

in

wh

ite

win

e o

r ro

sé

pro

du

ctio

n

In r

ed

win

em

akin

g,

an

yth

ing

le

ss t

ha

n c

om

ple

te

extr

actio

n o

f M

Ps is d

ifficu

lt.

Extr

actio

n o

f IB

MP

du

rin

g F

erm

en

tatio

n

Co

mp

lete

extr

actio

n o

f IB

MP

fro

m C

ab

ern

et

Sa

uvig

no

n in

24

ho

urs

Roujo

u d

e B

oubee, et.al (2

002)

IC

V (

Inst

itut

Coopera

tif

du V

in)

syst

em

Fact

ors

consi

dere

d:

1)

Tech

nolo

gic

al pulp

rip

eness

2)

Aro

matic

pulp

rip

eness

3)

Skin

rip

eness

(la

ck o

f aci

dity a

nd g

reenness

, m

atu

re t

annin

s)

4)

Seed r

ipeness

Senso

ry e

valu

ation o

f berr

ies

prior

to ferm

enta

tion

Only

pre

miu

m w

inegra

pes

(rip

e s

kin

s, s

eeds,

pulp

s) s

hould

go t

hro

ugh e

xte

nded m

ace

ration

Wo

rk b

y P

icke

rin

g,

et.

al. (

20

06

) o

n I

PM

P in

re

d

an

d w

hite

win

es

B

en

ton

ite

A

ctiva

ted

ch

arc

oa

l

O

ak c

hip

s

D

eo

do

rize

d o

ak c

hip

s

L

igh

t e

xp

osu

re

Activa

ted

ch

arc

oa

l lo

we

red

IP

MP,

bu

t h

ad

min

ima

l se

nso

ry im

pa

ct

Oa

k s

ign

ific

an

tly m

aske

d s

om

e

IPM

P c

ha

racte

r

In g

enera

l, c

ella

r opera

tions a

re

ineffective in r

educin

g M

Ps

Good p

ote

ntial fo

r m

ask

ing,

although u

nto

ast

ed o

ak c

an

contr

ibute

“sa

wdust

aro

mas”

Oak c

hip

s during ferm

enta

tion?

-

Poss

ible

rem

ova

l of

merc

apta

ns

-

Will

not

aff

ect

MP

MP

s a

re p

rim

arily

in

ste

ms,

skin

s:

Extr

acte

d r

ap

idly

du

rin

g f

erm

en

tatio

n

Typ

ica

l ce

llar

op

era

tio

ns a

re in

effe

ctive

or

no

n-

se

lective

fo

r re

du

cin

g M

Ps

Ve

ge

tal ch

ara

cte

r ca

n b

e m

aske

d b

y o

pe

ratio

ns t

ha

t

pro

du

ce

oth

er

aro

ma

s

MP

s a

re v

ery

sta

ble

and u

nre

active c

hem

ically

Best contr

olle

d in v

ineyard

Extr

actio

n is r

are

ly a

se

lective

pro

ce

ss

Mo

re is n

ot

ne

ce

ssa

rily

be

tte

r

Try

to

ma

ke

de

cis

ion

s o

n b

ala

nce

(i.e

. d

o t

he

mo

st

go

od

or

pre

ve

nt

the

mo

st

ha

rm)

Ye

ast

str

ain

se

lectio

n-

a s

tra

in w

ith

so

me

thin

g t

o a

dd

?

In r

ed

s,

limit p

um

p-o

ve

rs/

pu

nch

do

wn

s a

nd

try

to

ke

ep

th

ese

‘g

en

tle

’ if

po

ssib

le.

A p

inch

of

oxyg

en

he

re a

nd

th

ere

ma

y n

ot

be

th

e

wo

rst

thin

g t

ha

t co

uld

ha

pp

en

.

Ea

rly p

ressin

g (

3 B

rix o

r so

)

Ma

lic a

cid

will

lik

ely

be

pre

se

nt

in h

igh

er

co

nce

ntr

atio

ns in

un

de

rrip

e f

ruit.

Th

e s

oft

en

ing

an

d r

ou

nd

ing

of

fla

vo

rs w

ill p

rob

ab

ly b

e

we

lco

me

.

Th

e w

ine

will

po

ssib

ly b

e lo

w p

H a

nd

ab

le t

o t

ole

rate

an

in

cre

ase

.

Mu

ltip

le v

arie

tie

s a

re a

llow

ed

to

be

pu

t in

on

e b

ott

le.

Mu

ltip

le s

pe

cie

s a

re a

llow

ed

to

be

pu

t in

on

e b

ott

le.

Th

e w

ho

le m

ay b

e g

rea

ter,

le

sse

r, s

tra

ng

er

tha

n t

he

su

m o

f th

e p

art

s-b

ut

yo

u d

on

’t k

no

w u

ntil yo

u t

ry.

Note

s:

1.)

You c

an h

ave t

he b

est

_______ in t

he w

orld.

2.)

Addin

g m

ore

sow

’s e

ars

does

not

incr

ease

the

qualit

y o

f th

e s

ilk p

urs

e.

“Ove

r”-

ch

ap

taliz

atio

n

Slig

ht

RS

ad

justm

en

ts (

1-2

g/L

eve

n)

Ta

nn

in a

dd

itio

ns,

esp

ecia

lly if

yo

u’v

e p

un

ch

ed

ge

ntly

an

d p

resse

d e

arly

Note

: N

o info

rmation h

ere

should

be

const

rued a

s a n

ece

ssary

(or

even

eff

ect

ive)

meth

od for

treating y

our

ow

n w

ines.

Th

erm

ovin

ific

atio

n

H

ea

tin

g m

ust

to 6

0-8

0°C

D

istilla

tio

n o

f M

P

M

ay r

ed

uce

fo

rma

tio

n o

f “c

ut

gra

ss”

fla

vo

rs

Mic

ro-o

xyg

en

atio

n (

Zo

eckle

in)

R

ed

uce

s v

eg

eta

l ch

ara

cte

r

Do

es n

ot

se

em

to

lo

we

r M

Ps

L

ike

ly m

ech

an

ism

: re

mo

vin

g m

erc

ap

tan

s

Aro

ma

pe

rce

ptio

n in

mix

ture

s is g

ove

rne

d b

y

su

pp

ressio

n

“Fru

ity”

su

pp

resse

s “

Ve

ge

tal”,

an

d v

ice

ve

rsa

Vin

eya

rd p

ractice

s w

hic

h in

cre

ase

clu

ste

r lig

ht

exp

osu

re

an

d d

ecre

ase

vig

or

(esp

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