Engine Knock II

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J XD Engine Knock

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J XD Engine Knock

by ferdockm» Tue May 26, 2009 8:51 am

Friends,

I am hearing noticable engine knocks but only when I'm going up hill and only in 3rd gear and in thehigh range. When I down shift it goes away. When I'm in the low range, it does not happen either.

Has anyone experienced this? Anyone haveadvice?

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of [email protected], 09:48 AM 4/4/2008, Y our Order with Amazon.com

5/28/2009Printed for Matt Ferdock <[email protected]>



The engine was completely re-built and does not have 100 miles on it yet.

Thanks!

MattRegards,

Matt Ferdock

Owner of:1944 Ford G8T 1 1/2 ton1942 Ford G8T 1 1/2 ton1941 M3A1e5 White Scout Car G67; Ord 1010

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Re: J XD Engine Knock

by clintm20» Tue May 26, 2009 11:08 am

Hopefully it is just the engine lugging because it does not have enough rpm for the hill. Scout cars don'tlike hills AT ALL. If you can go up the same hill in second gear without the knocking then i think that is

it.Green Trucks and High Tides Forever"I spent most of my money on alcohol, women and scoutcars....and the rest of it I just wasted."

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by Kim Sievert » Tue May 26, 2009 6:25 pm

Going up hills in lower gears,,,,, watch you speed (aka RPMs) otherwise you will throw a rod.Look for those max speeds in the basic manual for scout cars.NOTE: The max speeds in the manual, are to me, still to fast of RPM to run the old girls at.

KimBan violent crime parolees, not guns.Dodge WC52Dogde WC56Dodge WC61 Jeep M725and some heavy metal.MVCC old fart and MVPA #5253NRA and CPRA Life Member

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by j506» Wed May 27, 2009 5:26 am

Did you prime the oil system just prior to "lighting 'er off " for he first time ?

John42 Chevy G711744 Ford M20 Armored Car

44 CCKW 353 A1 660 gal Tanker45 CCKW 353 B2 Air-portableBen Hur 1 ton trailerMVPA #26900

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by ferdockm» Wed May 27, 2009 6:35 am

John,

What do you mean by priming the oil system the first time? The first time it was EVER started?

Thanks

Matt

Regards,

Matt Ferdock

Owner of:1944 Ford G8T 1 1/2 ton1942 Ford G8T 1 1/2 ton1941 M3A1e5 White Scout Car G67; Ord 1010





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by j506» Wed May 27, 2009 3:45 pm

MattI only mentioned the "oil pump" because you stated it was a complete rebuild w/less then 100 miles.After a new rebuild the oil system needs to be primed to insure sufficient lubrication upon initial start-up( the oil galleys for the most part are empty at this point )1 way to do it is to crank the engine with the ignition off till the oil filter housing fills up ( almost full )or make sure that your oil pump is full of assembly lube ( the white stuff ) during assembly ( the lubewill help build a prime/siphon quicklyI think there was an article in an old PS magazine about this JXD weakness.( topic has already beendiscussed but I can't find it )

In other engines you pull the dist. and spin the oil pump with a drill..or..but the JXD oil pump is geardriven from the camshaft IIRC

Hope this helps John42 Chevy G711744 Ford M20 Armored Car44 CCKW 353 A1 660 gal Tanker45 CCKW 353 B2 Air-portableBen Hur 1 ton trailerMVPA #26900

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byartificer » Wed May 27, 2009 11:12 pm

noticable engine knocks but only when I'm going up hill and only in 3rd gear

I would be checking for the timing being too far advanced....retard the spark slightly and see if the noisegoes away...i.e. move timing more toward TDC. If you know how to use a vacuum gauge hook it up. If not study up on how to use and interpret.http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

TM 9-740

ARMORED CAR T17******Point gap should always be adjusted before timing is done.....

c. Ignition Timing. To time the ignition with engine, proceed asfollows:

(1) Remove all six spark plugs to relieve the compression. (Beextremely careful that nothing drops in the spark plug holes.)

(2) Remove the inspection cover from the top of the flywheelhousing (fig. 26).

(3) Make sure the transmission is in neutral.

(4) Use a compression gage in, or cover No. 1 spark plug hole withyour thumb and turn the engine by means of the fan blades until theNo. 1 cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke. Then, continueto turn carefully until the "DC" (dead center) mark on the flywheellines up exactly with the index mark on the flywheel housing (fig. 26). This will place No. 1 cylinder on exactly top dead center.

(5) Remove the distributor cap.

(6) Place the center line of the distributor . rotor over the timingline marked "NO. 1" on the internal cover plate (fig. 27).

(7) Maintain the hold-down arm approximately 25 degrees counter-clockwise from the grease cup and remove the hold-down cap screw.

(8) Insert the distributor in the mounting hole and "feel out" gea





tooth mesh until hold-down arm is over the rear hole in the mountingbracket. If necessary, let the rotor shift a little from the No. 1 marking.

(9) Insert and tighten the hold-down screw.

(10) Loosen the clamp bolt on the hold-down arm.

(11) Rotate the distributor body until the center line of the rotoragain lines up with the No. 1 mark on the plate.

(12) Install the distributor cap and all wires and turn ignition on.

(13) Hold the spark plug end of No. 1 spark plug Vs inch away fromthe cylinder.

(14) Turn the engine over until timing mark on the flywheel isV4 inch in advance of the index mark.

(15) Rotate the distributor to the point where the spark occursbetween No. 1 spark plug wire and the cylinder head, and tighten theclamp bolt. The engine will then be timed two crankshaft degreesadvanced.

John GIBBINS ....................Fact without theory is trivia. Theory without fact is BS.

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