Emergency LED Powered by Fire

http://www.instructables.com/id/Emergency-LED-powered-by-Fire/

Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

Emergency Light/Charger from Fire & Waterby Joohansson on May 15, 2013

Table of Contents

Emergency Light/Charger from Fire & Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Emergency Light/Charger from Fire & Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2: Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 3: Result . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

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Author:Joohansson My SiteI like to design, construct and experiment with both old and new technology, especially when it includes mechatronics. I'm also devoted to photography,computers, programming and technology in general.

Intro: Emergency Light/Charger from Fire & WaterDIY a really simple Thermoelectric Emergency Generator from very few parts.Optimized for powering with tealights/candles.

With inspiration from my previous projects:http://www.instructables.com/id/Thermoelectric-Fan-Driven-by-a-Candle/andhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Battery-Charger-Powered-by-Fire/

This was made as an experiment to test efficiency when using water as cooling component in a thermoelectric system. The result was very interesting and as it wasreally easy to make I thought I could share this too.

Background:It converts heat energy (from candles) into electricity. Main usage is to power LED lights to act as an emergency product. It could also be scaled up and used in homeswhere electricity is not very given. It could also be used as a battery charger or power other electronic devices. Im well aware of the commercial product tPOD1 which Ithink is a great idea but Im more interesting in a DIY solution for everyone.

Concept:Im using a thermoelectic module, also called peltier element, TEC or TEG. You have one hot side and one cold. The temperature difference in the module will startproducing electricity. The physical concept when you use it as a generator it's called the Seebeck effect. Thermoelectic modules are mainly used for the opposite effect,the Peltier effect. Then you apply a electric load and it will force a heat transfer from one side to the other. Often used in smaller refrigerators and coolers. Read moreabout i here:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect

Solution:First I used a cheap TEC-module (8) but it was unfortunately destroyed due to high temperatures. It was specified to handle 200C max temperature but somehow I gothigher temp than I measured. I ran it without load, that might be the cause. I now use a 40x40mm TEG-module that produce 5.9W (4.2V/1.4A) at 180C difference. It hasa maximum operating temp of 350C (180C cold side). It was the same module I used in my other charging project. Its quite expensive though, about 50. TEGs are abit hard to come by but I think there are cheaper ones available.

To transport away all heat and cool it with air you usually need a large heat sink, or a small heat sink with a motor and fan. In this project I use water instead. That makethe contruction really compact and the temperature on the "cold" side will never exceed 100C. Water will eventually boil but its easy to refill, as long as you have water.

To power LEDs you need higher voltage than the module itself produce. In my previous project I built an adjustable regulated voltage Step-up. That could be used (and isbetter) but I choose to use a $1 step-up from Ebay.

The best choice of heat source is 3x tealights. That produce about 0.2W electric power.

Features:

90g (without LED)WxH=85x78mmBuilt in voltage step-upSupport for 3x tealights

Applications:Mainy constructed to power LEDs but can be used for other things as well:

Battery/smartphone chargerExternal fan (cooling effect, fire booster, etc.)ElectronicsCharge super capacitor and power high intensity SOS signals

Could also be heated with lots of stuff:

CandlesSpirit burner/stoveGas burner/stoveWood stoveCamp fireBarbecueHot water

Donations:High effect thermoelectric modules are expensive. If you would like to see more of those experiments in the future, please consider a small donation.Bitcoin address: 1BouwowuprgQrtUYgyzYnNvHyRYbLceqHg

file:/member/Joohansson/file:/member/Joohansson/http://www.davit.sehttp://www.instructables.com/id/Thermoelectric-Fan-Driven-by-a-Candle/http://www.instructables.com/id/Battery-Charger-Powered-by-Fire/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect


Step 1: MaterialsMaterials:

2x cans of tuna-fish or similar (diameter=85mm). You need as flat bottom surface as possible, larger than TEC/TEG-module. Make sure it fits 3x tealights inside.2x 40x40x3mm sheets of aluminiumLEDs (I used a "USB notebook light" with two LEDs)TEC or TEG module. I bought mine "TEP1-1264-1.5" at http://termo-gen.com/Voltage step-up (1 to 5V). Search Ebay for "emergency aa battery portable dc charger". Another cheap circuit is this one: http://dx.com/p/usb-dc-1-5v-to-dc-5v-voltage-step-up-boost-module-green-143571Thermal paste (better if specified for high temperature, 200+COptional: 3x pull springs to add stability and heat transfer

Equipment:

6mm drillFileSand paper and/or steel woolOptional: Soldering iron

http://termo-gen.com/http://dx.com/p/usb-dc-1-5v-to-dc-5v-voltage-step-up-boost-module-green-143571http://dx.com/p/usb-dc-1-5v-to-dc-5v-voltage-step-up-boost-module-green-143571


Step 2: ConstructionPrepare Can 1:This will be used to absorb heat from the candles. Fire needs air and that is why you need to make lots of holes in the can. Most cans are covered with some kind ofvarnish. That smell really bad when you heat it up. You need to remove that.

Remove labels with hot water1.Drill 18x3=54x 6mm holes2.Use the file to reduce sharp edges3.Heat up the can, outside! I used a gas stove. It will burn and smell really bad. Then you can remove the varnish quite easy with a file or steel wool.4.

Prepare Can 2:That does not need to be prepared much. It will just contain water. Remove labels with hot water.

Prepare aluminium distance platesThey will act as a distance between the cans. Depending on what can you use, you might skip those. But I think they also are good to get a more even heat transfer.

Make them 40x40mm, that make them compatible with different TEG-modules. I had to also make 10x10mm chamfer on the corners to fit the flat surface of the1.cans.Use fine sand paper or steel wool to make them flat and nice2.

Assemble Mechanics:

Prepare one side of plate 1 with thermal paste1.Place plate 1 on top of can 1 (with thermal paste facing down)2.Optional: Prepare plate 1 with thermal paste (depending on what TEC/TEG you use)3.Place the TEG module on top of plate 14.Optional: Prepare TEG with thermal paste (depending on what TEC/TEG you use)5.Optional: Place a thermal resistor on top of plate 1 if you want to monitor temperature6.Place plate 2 on top of TEG7.Prepare plate 2 with thermal paste8.Place can 2 on top of plate 29.The order is: Can1-Paste-Plate1-Paste-TEG-Paste-Plate2-Paste-Can210.Optional: Add pull springs to hold the cans together, see pictures.11.

Assemble Electronics:

Connect the two cables on TEG-module to your step-up booster (check polarization)1.Connect LEDs to output of step-up booster (check polarization)2.

I used a soldering iron and screw the cables to a terminal block. The terminal block was glued to can2.


Image Notes1. Optional temperature sensor

Image Notes1. Voltage step-up

Step 3: ResultLit your candles and enjoy! Be careful with the temperature and make sure your TEG-module can handle it!

Output power from TEG at different water temperatures:30C: 0.25W40C: 0.23W50C: 0.22W60C: 0.21W70C: 0.21W75C: 0.22W

It never got over 75C with three candles. Water vaporizes at a rate of approx. 40ml/hour.

The efficiency of the booster/voltage step-up measured to 70% (Input=0.23W, Output=0,16W). That is enough to power some LEDs!

Updates:

I used the can of water and replaced the heat sink and fan in this project: Smartphone ChargerI managed to charge my iPhone 4s with 1W power at very low gas output. I could have used only this construction to charge the phone with the gas stove but Ididnt want to mess up my thermal paste with that kind of heat.Once it has started (must exceed 1V), one candle is actually enough to power the LEDs! It will vaporize less water.If you dont have fire, then just take a glass of hot water and fill the upper can with ice. That gives light for 30 min!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Battery-Charger-Powered-by-Fire/


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ThermoelectricPowerGeneration(TEG) by TecwynTwmffat

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Comments

19 comments Add Comment

spatuladle says: Jan 17, 2015. 1:36 PM REPLYI really like your project. Have you tried charging an iphone with it? Does it safely work? Thanks.

Sidharth s says: Dec 21, 2014. 12:58 AM REPLYvery good one

can you mail me to do this

1328 says: Jun 7, 2013. 7:25 AM REPLYPlease mail me detail layout of TEG or TEC module.

Is it possible to make peltier module at home.

Thanks a lot

Shortcircui says: Sep 25, 2014. 1:59 PM REPLYit probably is, but the homemade variant will actually cost more in materials, and will be worse in every single way

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dripperjgmail.com says: Feb 27, 2014. 1:04 AM REPLYhay mate where did you get

Built in voltage step-up

from ebay ?

Joohansson says: Feb 27, 2014. 2:48 AM REPLYSearch for "emergency aa battery portable dc charger"

dripperjgmail.com says: Feb 27, 2014. 3:22 AM REPLYthanks mate

Kais Kermani says: Jul 16, 2013. 6:00 AM REPLYJust Awesome !!

WastelandMan says: Jun 29, 2013. 9:55 PM REPLYVery well done! Thank you do much for this guide. I can't wait to try this!

phillam says: May 21, 2013. 5:48 AM REPLYI love these projects. Great work. I have often thought about lining a chimney flue with peltier modules. I live off grid and during winter solar is downespecially with cold batteries. We pretty much run a fire 24/7 and an external flue seems perfect to line with these modules, ie sub zero outside very hotinside. Granted you need maybe 30 of them but comparing the costs and wattage output to a solar panel it really isn't that bad and they run at night! Theseprojects are very inspiring. Thanks!!!

ejb says: May 19, 2013. 2:05 PM REPLYGreat instructable!!

Really awesome to see your progression through the various peltier projects you have made.

Voted :-)

agis68 says: May 19, 2013. 1:47 PM REPLYyour project reminded me the peltier projects i did some years ago but then were very expensive and not so many size varietes. Very good instructable!!!

AuralVirus says: May 19, 2013. 1:36 PM REPLYThese are they type of projects I love to see at instructables.

I8mAll says: May 19, 2013. 8:49 AM REPLYI too saw a Russian generator but this one was part of the flue immediately above a pot-belly stove. It was powerful enough to drive a radio transmitter. VWhas experimented with bimetallic exhausts to harvest waste energy. Your idea of using a step up converter is very elegant.

XenonJohn says: May 18, 2013. 1:10 PM REPLYSurfing the web years ago on this concept I found the Russians had a thing like a poker. You put one end in the fire and wires came out of the other end topower a radio. It used dissimilar metals rather than peltier unit. They also had a oil lamp with metal fins sticking out of the sides that did the same thing.

I like the idea of a camping stove that charges up your gadgets at the same time. As you say, just make sure the boiling water never actually boils dry.

John

tutdude98 says: May 17, 2013. 7:29 AM REPLYso with 30C you will get more power than with 75C?

Joohansson says: May 17, 2013. 9:38 AM REPLYThat is temperature of the water. Cooler water means higher temperature difference compared to the hot side. The higher power at 75C is aconsequence of the module's higher efficiency at higher temperatures I think. But the temperature difference if very similar across the whole interval. Itdoes not matter that much if you fill it with snow or boiling water. The heat transfer through the module is like a resistance and it require more heatenergy to increase the temperature difference as it is constantly cooled on the other side.

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RosyRivet says: May 17, 2013. 12:23 AM REPLYCan TEC elements be salvaged from junk refrigerators?

Joohansson says: May 17, 2013. 1:11 AM REPLYNot large refrigerators with compressor but smaller portable ones usually have peltier elements inside. The problem with those is that they normally arenot made for high temperatures. You may damage them if not careful.

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