Embroidery Training

EMBROIDERY TRAININGEMBROIDERY TRAINING

Herman RD Herman RD VinoyaVinoya

KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES

About Stitches :– All stitches are formed by a ½ loop of colored thread looped with

½ loop of bobbin thread.– Max and minimum length: Must be between 1mm (.04 inch) and

12.7mm (1/2 inch). Too short causes thread breaks. Too long, stitches are too loose.

3 Major Factors Affecting Sewing Quality that you can control:– Tension – once properly set, should rarely require re-adjustment.– Hooping – proper hooping is a must. Not too tight, not too loose.– Digitizing

KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES Sewing file format used in embroidery: DST– All commercial machines read this format– Does not have color information – must load the design into the machine

AND tell it which colors to sew.– Limited in editability – the design must be sewn at the size it was

digitized. About Embroidery Thread

Upper (colored) thread can be polyester or rayon, usually polyester. Standard is 40 weight Comes in several sizes: 5,000 meter cones to 1,000 meter cones. Handle carefully: physical contact, oil/dirt, moisture can prevent it

from unspooling smoothly and catch

KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES Bobbin thread

L-type, approximately 350 yards per spool. Bobbin thread will have to be changed more frequently than upper thread

Lasts approximately 25,000 to 60,000 stitches Embroidery Needles: Type DB-K5, standard size is 75/11 ballpoint for most applications.

Alternate needle for sewing caps and other tightly-woven goods (heavy canvas) is 80/12 sharp point for better penetration

The width of the shaft of an embroidery needle limits the finest possible detail (the smallest possible stitch). Standard size (75/11) needles are .75 mm across, so stitches must be at least a little wider than the hole that the needle punches in the fabric (minimum distance1mm)

Needles are subject to wear! Over time, burred surfaces and other wear can cause problems.

Be prepared to change needles frequently especially with heavy use.

KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES

Side view

butt

Shank –

rounded. D oes not have a f la t

sp o t

Front view

Scarf – faces towards the back of the machine

blade or shaft

Groove – allows you to find the front of the needle by feel.

PROPER MACHINE SET UP MACHINE ENVIRONMENTMACHINE ENVIRONMENT

Temperature and Humidity-Controlled Environment Clean, protected electrical power Steady table/mounting surfacee

PROPER MACHINE SET UP

-Proper Thread Routing: All threads must be routed correctly at all points along the path through the sewing head.

needle 7 needle 8

needle 9

needle 10

needle 11

needle 12

Layout of Cone/Needle Sequence

needle 6 needle 5

needle 4

needle 3

needle 2

needle 1

General Thread Route Thread must pass up from cones through guide holes in thread tree and through every specific point along the face of the sewing head. Thread

Needle numbers are arranged right to left, lowest number to highest.


Training Workbook: HAPPY HCS-1201 Voyager Operation and Maintenance Education Department

UPPER THREAD – complete route through moving head

Upper Tensioner Thread only makes ½ turn – make sure it passes to the left between the 2 metal discs.

Thread Break Sensor Thread this like the upper tensioner – ½ turn to the left. Make sure the thread falls in the groove as shown.

Lower Tensioner Thread makes 1 full turn clockwise around the base of the knob – make sure it runs in the V-shaped groove of the spoked wheel.

-Proper Thread Routing: All threads must be routed correctly at all points along the path through the sewing head. -Practice good thread “Discipline”: After threading all needles, ensure there is no slack anywhere along the thread path. Make sure to:

-Pull all threads – to ensure thread feeds smoothly and turns the break sensor, and all slack is removed from around thread cones

-“Dock” all thread ends from each needle onto the thread-holding spring. Prevents thread from coming loose and catching where not desired.

PROPER MACHINE SET UPChecking BobbinChecking Bobbin•Reloading the bobbin correctly Reloading the bobbin correctly – The bobbin will need to be replaced frequently alowing only 30,000 to 60,000 stitches per spool. This has to be done correctly every time.

Ensure bobbin turns clockwise. Pull thread through this slit.

Feed thread through eye at the end of the tension flap.

Pass thread under wire loop at the top front of the bobbin case.

PROPER MACHINE SET UPCHECKING TENSION• The “yo-yo” test is very exact in checking tension. Perform this quick check each time you re-load the bobbin. Practice until you are comfortable doing this.• Check bobbin tension frequently when changing bobbins

Make small adjustments– no more than a ¼ or½ turn in either direction

before re-checking tension.

TAKE CARE TO RE-INSERT THE RELOADED BOBBIN CASE FULLY! Your machine will not sew any stitches unless this is done. At worst, the needle & needle bar may strike the side of a poorly-inserted bobbin case, breaking the needle and possibly putting needle depth out

of adjustment for that needle.


Needle Screen: Color sequence is set?Needle Screen: Color sequence is set?Refer to the image of the Needle (color setup) screen shown on the

bottom (Optional) Color palette matches actual thread colors on each needle

(ensures accurate design preview) Needle number assigned to every color block? (For blocks

with unassigned needle # (value=“0”), machine will stop sewing and prompt for a color.

PROPER MACHINE SET UP Frame Screen: Positioned in a selected hoop?Referencing the diagram on the right on the Frame screen,

Has the hoop been selected that matches the actual hoop that will be used? • Is the design outline (in blue) inside the red safety line?

Has a trace been run?

Preparation of the Garment - HoopingPreparation of the Garment - Hooping

Hooping Hooping is the mechanical process for attaching a garment to the embroidery machine for sewing purposes. This is accomplished by mounting the area to be sewn in a special frame or hoop and then attaching this to the pantograph of the machine. The pantograph moves the garment as needed for proper needle penetration location. Its movement is controlled by the software commands embedded in an embroidery design file.

Hoop ShapesHoop Shapes Round or oval hoops provide the most even tensioning on fabric,

but don’t accommodate elongated or square designs very well. Rectangular hoops may be needed for dealing with square or

rectangular shapes, though the fabric tension is not equal at all parts of the hoop.


Hoop SelectionHoop Selection In general, always choose the smallest hoop for the job, as it will

provide the most support for the garment. Be sure to account for the presser foot when choosing your hoop.

You will need at least one inch between the edge of the design and the edge of the hoop to accommodate the presser foot.

Backing/Stabilizer: Backing/Stabilizer: Choose the right type. Should be large enough to overlap edges of hoop under the garment

Alignment and position: If the hoop isn’t aligned on the garment, it won’t sew straight!

Tight but not too tight! Garment and backing should have no slack or wrinkles inside hoop. Adjustment screw tightened enough to hold garment in hoop while sewing.


Round holes at bottom: Round holes at bottom: Make sure hoop is on the shirt so that round are towards the operator. Opposite end is towards machine.

TOWARDS TOWARDS MACHINEMACHINE

TOWARDS TOWARDS OPERATOROPERATOR


Loading the Garment & Hoop Positioning pins on arm must snap into round holes on end of

hoop to prevent unhooping during sewing. Sewing arm goes INSIDE the garment, not UNDER, or

machine will sew front and back of garment together! Loose items tucked out of the way. (sleeves, straps, etc) Heavy items supported where possible to prevent item from

falling out of hoop. Sleeves, and body can rest on table or chair underneath or to the side of machine if needed. Reinforce hoop with clamps or tape if needed


Positioning pins on arm must Positioning pins on arm must snap into round holes on end snap into round holes on end

of hoopof hoop

Sewing arm goes INSIDE Sewing arm goes INSIDE the garmentthe garment

Heavy items supported where possible to Heavy items supported where possible to prevent item from falling out of hoopprevent item from falling out of hoop

Loose items tucked out of Loose items tucked out of the waythe way

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLEPRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

Has a reputable digitizer digitized the pattern? For the fabric being sewn? Using proper stitch selection? Does the design look correct and is it legible?

Spelling & lettering correct?• Lettering type clear and easily readable?• Capital or small case, font, spaced properly?• Size, boldness, height & weight?

Correct color and type Thread being used?• Correct color being used for each part of the embroidery

pattern? ƒ

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE (cont.)PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE (cont.)

Correct type of thread (rayon, polyester, metallic, spun) to give the desired appearance & end-use requirements?

High sheen appearance (Rayon, Polyester, Metallic)? Low sheen or “mate” or “dull” appearance (Spun Polyester,

Cotton)? Resistance to fading after laundry (Polyester)? Specialty threads required (Metallic, variegated, space

dyed)? Is the finished size of the embroidery pattern correct? Meets specifications for the exact placement of the embroidery

pattern on the finished product?

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST BEFORE SEWINGBEFORE SEWING

Has the correct backing been selected? Are any toppings or facings required? Does the work order have the appropriate information regarding

starting points, etc.? Have the proper embroidery thread types, sizes and colors been

selected and have they been loaded in the appropriate needle positions?

Have the correct needle types and sizes been selected? Have all bobbins been replaced to minimize bobbin changes? Can the product being embroidered be “hooped” or “framed”

properly? Are clear measurements available for proper placement of the

embroidery on the sewn product?

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST DURING SEWINGDURING SEWING

How often does the thread break? Are other threads available to minimize interruptions?

How often does the bobbin run out of thread? Are bobbins available with more yards per bobbin to minimize bobbin run-out?

Does the stitch balance look consistent from color to color on the design?

Are machine thread tensions adjusted consistently from bobbin to bobbin, from needle thread color to needle thread color?

Is the machine speed optimum for the pattern being sewn? Can higher machine speeds be used to reduce cycle times?

Can the stitch density be reduced without causing “grin-through” and maintaining stitch appearance?

Are the embroidery machines being utilized with minimum non-sewing time?

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST AFTER SEWINGAFTER SEWING

Does the embroidery have the proper registration? Was the fabric properly hooped to minimize distortion of the fabric that the

pattern was sewn in to? Was the embroidery pattern aligned and positioned properly on the sewn

product? Does there appear to be excessive “pull” causing “grin-through” or distortion of

the sewn pattern? Are all points clean with corners finished properly? Are any parts of the embroidery too bulky or thick? Are there any threads that were not trimmed properly? Is there any fabric “grin through” or “gapping”? Are there any missed stitches due to thread breakage that need to be

repaired?

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST AFTER SEWINGAFTER SEWING

Are stitches formed properly (not too loose or too tight)? Signs of looping or malformed stitches? Signs of poor tension control? Bobbin thread seen on topside of embroidery? Thread tension set so 2/3-needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread seen

on backing side of embroidery on satin stitches? Is there any damage to the fabric caused by the needle size or too

many stitches sewn in the same area of the pattern? Excessive puckering or drawing up of the pattern? Are there excessive hoop marks that need to be steamed away?

COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS

Poor RegistrationPoor Registration

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitches and design elements do not line up correctly. The embroidery sewing process sews different colors at different times. If the fabric shifts while one color is being sewn, then poor registration will occur when the next color is sewn. Sometimes it is difficult to tell the difference between poor registration, poor digitizing, and fabric “grin-through” or “gapping” due to thread “pull”.SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (using appropriate underlay stitches); and 2) Hooping properly (using correct backing to prevent excessive material flagging).


Fabric Grin Through or GappingFabric Grin Through or Gapping

Not Digitized To Compensate For “Pull” of Thread

Digitized To Compensate For “Pull” of Thread

DESCRIPTION: Where the fabric is seen through the embroidery design either in the middle of the pattern or on the edge.SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate underlay stitches, increasing stitch density, using different fill stitch pattern or direction, or compensating for “Pull” of thread by overlapping fill and satin border stitches); and 2) Using appropriate topping.


Missed TrimMissed Trim

DESCRIPTION: Where threads are left on the embroidery pattern between images or lettering. Thread trims are digitized when changing colors and when moving from one location to another using “jump” stitches.SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate number of trims, using appropriate tie- off stitches, or replacing trimming knives when necessary); and 2) Hand trimming missed trims using trimming snips


Bunching at CornersBunching at Corners

DESCRIPTION: Where the corners of lettering or shapes are not sharp and crisp but are bunched up or distorted. Usually caused by too much thread in the corners due to poor digitizing. This includes: 1) Not using appropriate stitch selection , 2) Not using “Short” stitches in corner, and 3) Poor stitch balance – thread too loose..

SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by digitizing properly: 1) Using appropriate stitch selection, and 2) Using “short” stitch cornering, and 3) Correcting stitch balance


Poor Stitch BalancePoor Stitch Balance

DESCRIPTION: where white bobbin thread shows on the topside of the embroidery. Ideally, the needle thread should be held on the underside of the seam, and not ever be pulled up to the topside. Proper stitch balance can be checked on the underneath or backing side of the embroidery by looking for 2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread on Satin stitches.SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Using quality embroidery needle thread, 2) Using quality pre-wound bobbins, and 3) Setting machine thread tensions correctly.


Embroidery Too ThickEmbroidery Too Thick

DESCRIPTION: Where the embroidery is too thick and uncomfortable. Can be caused by too high of a stitch density or not using the correct backing for the application.SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate stitch selection, using fewer stitches, and using “short” stitches on corners); 2) Making sure stitch is balanced properly; 3) Using smaller thread size; and 4) Using the correct backing (Using correct type and weight).


Poor Coverage – Poor Stitch DensityPoor Coverage – Poor Stitch Density

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch density is not thick enough and you can see through the embroidery stitching..SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate stitch selection, using more stitches, and using underlay stitches); and 2) Using appropriate backing & topping.

Embroidery Training

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