FABRIC EMBELLISHMENT

SHAZMAH BASHARATPh.D. Scholar

Textiles & ClothingCollege of Home Economics

Introduction• Textiles is a non verbal language of the people.• Raw materials speak of Geo- Climatic region & trade

linkages.• Techniques speak of Civilizations as well as links with

others.• Motifs tell us of their beliefs, legends & myths.• And, Embroidery is an expression of creativity that

embodies all the above.

• Embroidery is the fascinating cloth art that involves the use of needles and thread.• According to Mary Norden “Embroidery encompasses many different

types of fabric decoration, so beautiful and detailed that it is difficult to believe that a needle created them”.

• . It is an art rightly described as "painting by needle"

• Embroidery is the art of handicraft of decorating fabric or other material with design stitches in strands of threads or yarns using a needle. Embroidery may also incorporate other material such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quilts and sequins. • Sub continent embroidery is a craft that epitomizes the

enchanting confluence of cultures.• Indian embroidery owes its amazing array to the resulting cross-

fertilization of cultures. That is why, practically all stitches known the world are employed in India.

The origin of Indian textiles can be traced to the Indus valley civilization. The art of embroidery is clearly of the

Eastern origin and is of such ancient lineage that our knowledge of it stretches into pre-historic ages.

Indian embroidery and artistry has always been seducing people from different corners of the world, with its colours, individualities and ability to keep the

gazers awestruck at the skill which has come down from one generation to the other without a loosening of the

cords of tradition. India has long been known for its golden thread, zari and its various products (Crill, 1999).

Mughal Court Embroideries (17th- 18th Century)• These Embroideries reflected the Persian & Central Asian

Embroideries preferred by the Mughals.• Royal workshops or Karkhanas came into existence in major cities

such as, Delhi, Agra, Lahore, Ahmedabad & Bidar.• In addition to craftsmen from abroad, these workshops also employed

best local traditional artisans.• This Accomplishment resulted in great workmanship & change.• The Mughal motifs are quite distinct of its contemporaries, were used

in dresses, sashes, tent linings, summer quilts, floor spreads hangings etc.

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A fine example from the Jehangir Period. A cream coloured Satin Coat embroidered in Silk Satin Stitch, with an all over pattern of hillocks, flowering trees & plants, peacocks, storks, butterflies, insects and animals.

Most of the Mughal work is in chain stitch & satin stitch with silk thread and sometimes Gold & Silver Zari on Cotton, Silk & Satin Fabric

Sumptuously embroidered Qanat panels are a remarkable example of Court Embroideries. They are worked on cotton or silk, padded and embroidered in multicolored silk and couched in zari.

Zari Embroideries• After the dispersal of craftsmen from the Royal Karkhanas,

they were setup in provincial capitals by the Nawabs. • The craftsmen brought their skills to these provincial courts

and worked on commission or for the prosperous towns people.• From the second half of the 18th century to early 20th century,

two distinct types of gold embroideries found ready patronsThe Zardozi & Kalabattu

The ZarDoziThis is a heavy and more elaborate silver gilt thread work upon a foundation padded with cotton thread or paper.it also uses varieties of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, and gota. It is used to embellish wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes. The material on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and satin. The kind of stitches found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori, and seed pearls, among others.

The ZarDozi

Kalabutta

Kalabutta work is light delicate embroidery, in gilt silver or silver thread, strips of gilt silver spangles upon fine silk, cotton or muslin. Kalabutta work adorned saris, odhnis, borders, skirts and a variety of dresses.

Various Zari Embroideries

Danke-ka-kaam is a speciality in terms of places like Udaipur. This craft is primarily distinguished by the use of small metallic square around which zardozi is done. The danka is a small square plate which is variable in size not bigger than 1.5cm. Although danka was originally made in gold, but nowadays silver plated with gold is also used (Mehta, 1994).

Various Zari Embroideries

Makaish This is one of the oldest styles and is done with silver wire or badla. The wire itself serves as a needle, piercing the material to complete the stitches. A variety of designs are produced in this manner.

Various Zari EmbroideriesGota work: Gota isa band of gold or silver ribbon of that varies with width, woven in a satin weave. Gota` and `Kinari` are golden and silver coloured pieces and laces those are sewn on the cloth. The work is done on the fabric with the appliqué technique. With hemming or simple running stitch the gota is attached in stylish design flow from the artisan`s fingers on to the garment.

regional EmbroideriesApplique/ ralli:For this mill made medium weight white cotton cloth forms the base on which Patches of various tints ,shades ,sizes and shapes are arranged in a pictorial pattern later trimmed, slip stitched ,whipped sometimes and finished with running stitch and button hole.

regional EmbroideriesApplique/ ralli:The quilts made by patchwork known as ‘Ralli’ are the traditional product of Rajasthan. The quilt is made by sewing several layers of old fabrics ,where the upper most layer being made of new cotton cloth. The colors used for patch work are olive green, brown, maroon and black.The corners are decorated with tassels of either cotton or silk and Sequins called ‘Phuladi’ .

BEADWORK

• This time consuming art seems to have initiated through contact with the African ports.

Chamba Rumals• The Chamba Rumals are made of fine cotton or

muslin and are embroidered with silk and sometimes with silver and silver gilt wire.• The rumals, handkerchiefs, were used on all

festive occasions as a symbol of goodwill and affection. They were presented as gifts and were used for wrapping gifts exchanged at weddings.• Colors are bright and bold—orange, red, black,

yellow, ultramarine, purple, pink and green.• The work was so exquisitely done that it looked

exactly alike on both sides.

Chikankari• Chikan is a traditional embroidery style from

Lucknow, India. Literally translated, the word means embroidery. Believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, the wife of Mughal emperor Jahangir, it is one of Lucknow's best known textile decoration styles.• Chikankari is a delicate and artfully done hand

embroidery on a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments.

Sindhi Ajrak• The word Ajrak is derived from an

Arabic word “azrak” which means ‘blue’. It is a cloth of 2.5 – 3 meters length, decorated mostly with rich crimson and a deep indigo color but a little bit of white and black is also used to give definition to the geometric patterns. It is commonly used in Sindh as men use it as a turban and curled it around the shoulders while women use it as a shawl.