Electric Flight - February 2014

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ELECTRIC FLIGHT (USPS # 021-655; ISSN# 2159-0672) is published bimonthly by Air Age Media, 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA. Copyright 2013, all rights reserved. Periodicals postage permit paid at Wilton, CT and additional offi ces. Canadian Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40008153. SUBSCRIPTIONS: Go to ModelAirplaneNews.com USA: call (800) 479-5849; Canada and elsewhere: call (386) 246-3323; fax (386) 447-2321. USA: $29 (1 year); Canada: $34 including GST (1 year); elsewhere: $39 (1 year). All international orders must be prepaid in U.S. funds; Visa, MC, Discover and AmEx accepted. EDITORIAL: Send correspondence to Electric Flight, 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA; email: electricfl [email protected]. We welcome all editorial submissions but assume no responsibility for the loss of or damage to unsolicited material. To authors, photographers and people featured in this magazine: all materials published in Electric Flight become the exclusive property of Air Age Media unless prior arrangement is made in writing with the Publisher. ADVERTISING: Send advertising materials to Advertising Dept., Electric Flight, 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA; (203) 431-9000; fax (203) 529-3010; [email protected]. CHANGE OF ADDRESS: To make sure that you don’t miss any issues, send your new address to Electric Flight, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 USA six weeks before you move. Please include an address label from a recent issue, or print the information exactly as shown on the label. For faster service, go to ModelAirplaneNews.com and click on the customer service link. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Electric Flight, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235 USA.

CONTENTS Volume 13 Number 2

January 2014

56

32

38

6 | On the Web

8 | From the Cockpit

10 | Airmail

12 | Shop Tips

14 | Current News

36 | AirAgeStore.com

Departments ON THE COVER: Do you like your aerobatic and sport fl ying a little on the rugged side? With fl oats or tundra tires attached, the new Carbon-Z Cub is the bush plane for you. See page 18 for the full story.

Features22 Top 20 Field & Bench GuideEditors’ picks for useful tools, accessories, and gearBy the Electric Flight Crew

32 Pro Tips for a Perfect FinishIt’s what’s under the paint that makes the diff erence By Rob Caso

Pilot Reports18 Exclusive! E-fl ite Carbon-Z CubA molded, giant-scale, aerobatic, bush planeBy Kevin Siemonsen

28 Durafl y JuniorPart of the Retro Series, this park fl yer is inspired by yesteryear! By Gerry Yarrish

38 Taft Hobby Mini Trainer� is terrifi c little park fl yer is the perfect entry into RC By Larry Cooper

56 Flyzone Hadron� is fl ying wing is so much fun it ought to be illegal! By Greg Gimlick

43 Special Helicopter Section44 Heli Talk: Light ’Em Up!Equip your heli for night fl ight By Jim Ryan

48 2DogRC Dualsky Hornet 460A quick, easy-to-assemble quadcopter for any pilot By John Reid

52 Ares Chronos FP 110� e perfect bird for moving beyond the coaxial group of helicopters By John Reid

Columns60 Custom CornerHow to Remove Old CoveringBy John Reid

64 Aerobatics Made EasyFly an Extreme Slip to Landing By John Glezellis

66 Tailview3D Printing for Scale DetailBy John Reid

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6 MORE FROM THIS ISSUE AT MODELAIRPLANENEWS.COM

On the Web

ModelAirplaneNews.com

WE WELCOME YOUR FEEDBACK! Please tell us what YOU want to see! Find us online at ModelAirplaneNews.com, and on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Tumblr, Instagram, or Pinterest. You can also always drop us a line at [email protected]!

TECH TIP: DENT REMOVAL — FAST FOAM FIXESDon’t trash that crash! It is very easy to repair your park fl yer, especially when it is made of molded foam. Check out this quick and easy way to mend a broken wing so the repair is all but invisible. Plus you’ll save some coin by not purchasing a new wing.

PREMIUM SITE EXCLUSIVE:ONLINE BUILD-ALONGA great way to save weight in the tail of your airplane, and maintain true to scale details, is to install a pull-pull cable system for your rudder. With basic tools and some inexpensive supplies from the fi shing tackle shop, you’ll have your rudder wagging in no time. Head over to AirAgeStore.com to sign up for the Premium Site. You don’t want to miss this story or any of our other exclusive members-only content.

E-NEWSLETTER: GET IN THE KNOWIf you get our free weekly e-newsletter, you’ll remember “Super Constellation: Biggest ARF Ever.” � is giant-scale ARF airliner has a 169-inch span and the fuselage splits in two for easier transport. If you don’t receive our e-newsletter, sign up today at ModelAirplaneNews.com — you’ll be glad you did!

LIGHT UP THE NIGHT SKYWant to extend your hours of RC operation? Ever think about RC night fl ying? John Reid shows how easy it really is using basic tools and some specialty products to light up the night skies. � ere are lots of LED and high-intensity lighting systems available today and John gives all the tips and tricks for fl ying safely after dark.

On the Web 0314.indd 6 11/22/13 1:23 PM

EDITORIALExecutive Editor Debra Cleghorn ›› [email protected]

Senior Technical Editor Gerry Yarrish ›› [email protected]

West Coast Senior Editor John Reid ›› [email protected]

Deputy Managing Editor Katherine Pierpont

Copyeditor Suzanne Saunders

CONTRIBUTORS Bob Aberle, Gary Allen, Jason Benson, Budd Davisson, Roy Day, Don Edberg, Mike Gantt, Dave Garwood, Dave Gierke, Greg Gimlick, John Glezellis, Henry Haffke, Aaron Ham, Sal Iasilli, Clarence Lee, Jim Newman, Mark Rittinger, Jim Ryan, David Scott, Jerry Smith, Quique Somenzini, Aaron Strietzel, Faye Stilley, Michael Stroup, John Tanzer, Richard Thompson, Craig Trachten, Paul Tradelius, Pat Tritle, Rich Uravitch, David Vaught, Michael York, Nick Ziroli Sr.

ARTCreative Director Betty K. Nero

Art Director Kevin Monahan

DIGITAL MEDIAWeb Producer Holly Hansen

VIDEO/PHOTOGRAPHYPhotographers/Videographers Peter Hall,Johnathan Henninger, Adam Lebenstein, Fredy Perojo

ADVERTISINGAdvertising Director Mitch Brian ›› 203.529.4609 Senior Account Executive Ben Halladay ›› 203.529.4628Sales Assistant Tracey Terenzi ›› 203.529.4637

CONSUMER MARKETINGThe Media Source, a division of Source Interlink Companies, Inc.

MARKETING & EVENTSVice President, Marketing Laura HaganAssociate Creative Director Leslie CostaProduction Assistant Paul StreetoEvent Manager Emil DeFrancesco

PUBLISHINGGroup Publishers Louis V. DeFrancesco Jr., Yvonne M. DeFrancesco

88 Danbury Road Wilton, CT 06897 USA

Email electricfl [email protected] ModelAirplaneNews.comEditorial offi ces (203) 431-9000

Customer Service (800) 479-5849For more ways to contact us, check

out our Reader Services page.


RCX.com Magazine Publishers

of America

Printed in the USA

From the CockpitBy Gerry Yarrish

Flaps down! � e Carbon-Z Cub comes in for a short fi eld landing.

Hot New Heli Book!Filled with advice from some of the hobby’s most experienced pros, RC Helicopter How-tos, Volume 2 covers everything from building and assembly basics to fi rst hovers and advanced 3D aerobatics. Knowledge is power and you’ll be amazed at how quickly you progress while avoiding common mistakes encountered by every RC aviator. In no time at all, you’ll be impressing your friends at the fl ying fi eld and well on your way to becoming a better helicopter pilot!

� Basic hovering made easy� Advance fl ight techniques� Engine tuning� Radio setup tips� Building techniques� Hot 3D maneuvers� Assembly and maintenance tips

Digital & hard copy

available at AirAgeStore.com

$27.95

Everyone loves a CubI’ve heard this statement for decades and it holds true for both full-size and RC airplanes. The Piper Cub is the very definition of the “form follows function” mindset. Strength and reliability combined into a simple, uncomplicated design is a proven formula for success.In this issue, and featured on our cover, is the newest version of the popular Cub in the form of E-flite’s Carbon-Z Cub. This molded park flyer plane is a combination of features that will be appealing to many. It is based on the full-size Carbon Cub from Cub Crafters and it is IMAA legal, so giant-scale fliers will be happy. It is a sport-scale bush plane, so it can operate from almost any grass field with its large “Tundra” tires and functional flaps for short takeoff and landing performance. And, designed by Quique Somenzini, the Carbon-Z Cub is surprisingly aerobatic. Featuring the AS3X flight stabilization system, the Carbon-Z also has the stability of a trainer, so you get the best of both worlds.

BEST FOR FIELD AND BENCHAlso in this issue, we have our top picks for products, tools, and gear that will come in handy both in the workshop and at your local flying field. To maximize your fun time and hobby investment dollars, you need the right tools for the job. Check it out and you may find something to add to your RC holiday wish list!

Mark Your Calendar!RCX 2014 will take place on May 17-18 at the OC Fair & Event Center in Costa Mesa, CA, and will off er more outdoor activities than ever before! To purchase tickets and for more information on the ultimate radio control show, check out RCX.com.

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DOOLITTLE RAIDERS U Your January issue of Electric Flight, with the B-25 Mitchell on the cover, could not have come out at a better time. As I am writing this, I recently learned that the annual Doolittle Raiders reunion just took place at Wright Patterson AFB, right here in Dayton, OH. Not only did it happen this past weekend, but it also was to be the very last reunion because of the advanced ages of the few remaining pilots. When I saw the cover of your January issue, I had to learn more about the model B-25. � ere’s quite a bit of history associated with this great-looking bomber. Walter Wilcox, Dayton, OH

Walter, thanks for your email. We too are impressed with the history of the B-25 and the Doolittle Raiders who fl ew 16 of the bombers off the deck of the USS Hornet aircraft carrier on April 18, 1942. Actually, the 71st Doolittle Raiders Reunion was held April 17 in Fort Walton Beach, FL. On November 9, three of the four remaining raiders attended a “fi nal reunion” at the U.S. Air Force’s National Museum in Dayton, OH. Because of their old age, it was determined to have the Raiders fi nally open their vintage bottle of cognac and bring the annual reunion to an end. Of the original 80 crew members led by Lt. Col. Jimmy Doolittle, Lt. Col. Richard Cole, 98, Lt. Col. Edward Saylor, 93, and Staff Sgt. David � atcher, 92, raised their engraved silver goblets and drank their toast to peace. Because of health issues, the fourth surviving Raider, Lt. Col. Robert Hite, 93, couldn’t travel to Ohio. Hite is also the last survivor of eight Raiders who were captured by the Japanese after their raid. � e B-25 featured on our January cover is from FMS and distributed by Diamond Hobby, and is of a later model B-25 and is in the colors of Panchito — a modern-day airshow warbird. —GY

MONSTER FLYING RAZOR U I was very impressed with your showcase of Dave Perrone’s Fokker D.VIII in Tailview. I have seen several electric-powered WW I models but Dave’s Flying Razor is by far, the most elegant I have seen. If this is the caliber of models that regularly show up at the NEAT Fair event, then I will have to make the eff ort so attend one of these years. I go to the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome in New York for their RC event, but I have never attended NEAT. Paul Duncan, Port Jeff erson, NY

Paul, yes, indeed, the NEAT Fair is held each September in the Catskill Mountains at the Peaceful Valley Campgrounds near Downsville, NY. � ere are a lot of amazing scale airplanes at the event, including giants like Dave’s Fokker D.VIII. You’ll also see all sorts of sport and high-performance fl yers there, as well as indoor and night fl ying. If you like impressive models of all types, the NEAT Fair is the place to go to get your fi ll of electric-powered excitement. —GY

HELICOPTER HEAVENU I am having an argument with an RC fl ying buddy that the largest RC event is the annual IRCHA Jamboree. My friend says it’s the Joe Nall Giant Scale Fly-In. Please set the record straight for us.� omas Radcliff , Spokane, WA

Hey, � omas, we can remember thinking that an RC event with more than 100 registered pilots was a big event. However, with the growth of week-long super events like the ones you mentioned, the registration numbers are truly amazing. At the 2013 IRCHA Jamboree, some 1,132 pilots registered for the all-helicopter gathering at the AMA fl ying facility in Muncie, IN. For the giant-scale guys, the Joe Nall Fly-In is an RC mecca and this past year, it drew some 1,200 registered pilots to the Triple Tree Aerodrome in Woodruff , SC. No doubt, both events grow every year and with such impressive venues that are so family friendly, RC-themed vacations are sure to remain very popular. —GY

AirmailEmail: electricfl [email protected] | Mail: Airmail, Air Age Media, 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA

Get Talking on ModelAirplaneNews.com In response to our recent “Build to Win Contest” post, you guys defi nitely proved that RC model plans builders are still going strong. Here are some of your comments.

Certainly an interesting concept. Rich Uravitch has provided a nice baseline design. —Paul Bradley

Looks like great fun! Downloading the plan now! � ank you! —Francis

I think this is a GREAT idea! —Jerry Festa

I’m in. I need some clarifi cation, though. How far can we deviate from the plans? —SF Tester

I love it. I was going to scratch-build a trainer but this is too cool to pass up. Just saved the plans for printing. My woodworking shop is well-equipped so here we go. Pics to follow. —Bob Roskuski

WRITE TO US! We welcome your comments and suggestions. Address letters to “Airmail,” Electric Flight, Air Age Media, 88 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897-7337 USA; email electricfl [email protected]. Letters may be edited for clarity and brevity. We regret that, owing to the tremendous numbers of letters we receive, we cannot respond to every one.

Dave Perrone shows off his Flying Razor at the NEAT Fair.

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SHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOP

SEND IN YOUR IDEAS and if we pick your tip, we’ll send you an Electric Flight baseball cap! You can send in a photo or sketch describing your favorite shop trick to: “Shop Tips,” c/o Electric Flight, 88 Danbury Rd., Suite 2B, Wilton, CT 06897 or email us at electricfl [email protected]. Be sure to include your name and mailing address. We’re sorry to say that due to the number of hobby-related ideas we receive, we can neither acknowledge each one, nor return unused material.

SHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPSHOPTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPSTIPS

12 MORE FROM THIS ISSUE AT

SEND IN YOUR IDEAS send in a photo or sketch describing your favorite shop trick to: “Shop Tips,” c/o CT 06897 or email us at electricfl [email protected]. Be sure to include your name and mailing address. We’re sorry to say that due to the number of hobby-related ideas we receive, we can neither acknowledge each one, nor return unused material.

Double-Sided ProtectionWhen it comes to protecting RC electronics like receivers and battery packs, most modelers wrap them with foam padding. However, vibration and/or G-force can cause the electronics to slip out from the padding. A great way to secure the parts is to wrap them with double-sided foam tape and then the foam padding.Kevin Siemonsen, New Fairfi eld, CT

Quick Mini Pushrod GuideTake a plastic pinned hinge, remove the cotter pin, and then trim one hinge leaf as shown. Inset and glue the section in the side of your foamie fl yer to support the wire pushrod. Use fl exible glue like Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue, which sticks to plastic and is foam-safe.Wesley Phelps, Milton, FL

Drill Depth GaugeDo you only need to drill to a certain depth in the wood parts of your model? Wrap electrical tape around the bit two or three times (from the drill bit tip to the depth you want to drill). Carefully drill the hole, and when you feel the tape come in contact with the wood, you know it’s time to stop. � is is especially useful when drilling hinge pockets for Robart Hinge Points.Whitney Philbrick, Nolensville, TN

Neat HolesWhen it comes to producing neat, precise holes in your model for hardware like switches, charge jacks, and even fueling dots, etc., it’s best to use a sharpened piece of brass tube. Select a tube that’s the appropriate diameter and use a sharp hobby blade to bevel the inside edge until you produce a thin, sharp outer edge. � en use some fi ne 320-grit sandpaper to further sharpen the tube by twisting the tube while it’s wrapped in the sandpaper. � is produces a very sharp edge that easily cuts through balsa and iron-on covering. Place the “cutter” where you want the hole, press down, and give it a few twists. � at’s it — quick and easy.Aaron Ham, Sherman, CT

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Current NewsLATEST DEVELOPMENTS IN ELECTRIC RC

Estes Proto X� is is the smallest commercially available quad we’ve ever seen. Weighing in at less than a half ounce, this tiny fl yer is still plenty of fun! It has built-in LEDs and comes with a 2.4GHz radio, 100mAh battery, charge cord, and spare blades; you’ll just need two AAA batteries! � e Proto X costs $39.99. hobbico.com

Great Planes Escapade MXAdd a RimFire .46 brushless outrunner power system and 3350mAh battery, and this sport fl yer is ready to put on a show! � is 52-inch-span, built-up ARF has MonoKote covering, aluminum landing gear, and fi berglass wheel pants, and assembly is quick and glue-free! � e MX costs $139.99. greatplanes.com

ICARE Mini MotorsEquipped with built-in speed controls, JST plugs, and curved magnets, these tiny powerplants are ideal for light indoor models. � e XM1812RTR-42 is perfect for 75-gram 3D aerobats and the XM2212RTR-25 is intended for 120- to 130-gram F3P pattern planes. � ey costs $39 and $42, respectively. icare-rc.com

Hitec Battery BuzzerHere’s a lightweight, inexpensive solution to protect your LiPo battery packs (and your plane!). � is $9.99 unit has a high-pitch, low-voltage warning as well as LED status; you program the threshold that’s right for you. hitecrcd.com

Hitec Maxima 6 & 9 ReceiversDesigned to work with all Hitec Generation 2 radios and digital servos, these new full-range micro receivers deliver high-resolution response and reliability. Safety features include secure hold and fail-safe functions. � e .23-ounce Maxima 6 has a standard antenna and costs $54.95; the .29-ounce Maxima 9 has a mini boosted omni-directional antenna and costs $69.99. hitecrcd.com

Hitec Here’s a lightweight, inexpensive solution to protect your LiPo battery packs (and your plane!). � is $9.99 unit has a high-pitch, low-voltage warning as well as LED status; you program the threshold that’s right for you.

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SIG Mfg. Senior SportSIG’s Kadet Senior has helped hundreds of pilots earn their RC wings, and this new tail-dragger version is sure to follow in its storied fl ight path. � is all-wood ARF comes with a fi berglass cowl and wheel pants, magnetic top hatch, formed aluminum landing gear, UltraCote covering, and a two-piece wing with an aluminum wing tube joiner. � e 78-inch-span plane requires a 500 to 800Kv brushless outrunner. sigmfg.com

Senior SportSIG’s Kadet Senior has helped hundreds of pilots earn their RC wings, and this new tail-dragger version is sure to follow in its storied fl ight path. � is all-wood ARF comes with a fi berglass cowl and wheel pants, magnetic top hatch, formed aluminum landing gear, UltraCote covering, and a two-piece wing with an aluminum wing tube joiner. � e 78-inch-span plane requires a 500 to 800Kv

Nine Eagles Solo Pro Lama 290� is completely assembled package off ers scale looks and killer performance! � is collective-pitch heli comes with its 3-axis gyro, 20-amp speed control, mixer, and receiver built into one unit! � e 18-inch-long heli also includes a 3S 1100mAh fl ight battery and has a shaft-driven tail rotor. It’s available in a red and yellow scheme or black and green scheme. It costs $349.99 without a transmitter and it’s $399.99 ready to fl y. towerhobbies.com

LaTrax AliasWith easy, fast, and expert fl ight modes, this high-performance quad can take you from your fi rst fl ight with auto-leveling to fl ips, rolls, and twists! � is virtually indestructible multirotor comes with high-intensity LEDs for increased night visibility and is available in blue, red, green, or orange. It costs $149.95 and comes with a 6-channel 2.4GHz radio. latrax.com

Weekender Warbirds� ese WW II warbirds have great looks and great fl ight characteristics! � e 29.5-inch-span foam ARFs have fully assembled airframes with installed servos and brushless motor systems. Each only requires a 4-channel radio system and 2S 1000mAh LiPo. � e P-51D, Corsair, and Hawker Hurricane Mk IIB are just $119.99 each. hitecrcd.com

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E-fl ite/Horizon Hobby

Carbon-Z CubA molded, giant-scale, aerobatic, bush plane By Kevin Siemonsen Photos by Peter Hall

Highlights�+ High quality with excellent fi t

and fi nish

�+ Very broad fl ight envelope with uncanny stability

�+ Quick build

�+ Optional fl oats

Gear UsedRadio: JR 12X (jrradios.com), Spektrum AR635 AS3X sport radio (spektrumrc.com)Motor: E-fl ite BL50 (included) (e-fl iterc.com)Battery: E-fl ite 6S 3200 LiPo battery packESC: E-fl ite 60-amp speed control (included) Propeller: E-fl ite 15x5.5 (included)

Specifi cationsModel: Carbon-Z CubType: IMAA-molded foam bush planeManufacturer: E-fl ite (e-fl iterc.com)Distributor: Horizon Hobby (horizonhobby.com)Wingspan: 85 in.Length: 55.8 in.Wing area: 1,100 sq./in.Weight: 8.15 lb.Wing loading: 17oz./sq. ft.Radio req’d: 5-channel (rudder, throttle, elevator, throttle, fl aps)Power req’d: E-fl ite BL50 brushless motorPrice: $399.99 (BNF Basic); $379.99 (PNP)

Pilot Report


Carbon-Z CubE-fl ite/Horizon Hobby

Carbon-Z CubE-fl ite/Horizon Hobby

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MARCH 2013 19


Carbon-Z CubA molded, giant-scale, aerobatic, bush plane By Kevin Siemonsen Photos by Peter Hall

� e classic Piper J-3 Cub has been a longtime favorite in aviation as proven by the many variations that exist today. � e full-size Carbon Cub from Cub Crafters drastically improved the basic Cub design with modern lightweight manufacturing techniques and an increase in good ol’ fashioned horsepower. With improved performance, the fun factor goes up exponentially. Just like the real thing, the Carbon-Z Cub from E-fl ite has more punch than the traditional classic and is sure to please both the sport and aerobatic RC pilot. As with most high-powered short fi eld airplanes, the Carbon-Z Cub is also a great performer on the water.

Author Kevin Siemonsen assembles the Carbon-Z Cub for its fi rst test fl ight. Field assembly takes only minutes.



THE MODEL HAS A VERY WIDE SPEED ENVELOPE AND IT DOES A SWEET SNAP ROLL

AND BEAUTIFUL FLAT SPINS.

� e fl ight conditions were turbulent during the test fl ight and it was almost eerie how stable the Carbon-Z Cub was. It fl ies every bit as

good and more than the full-size plane, which I have been lucky enough to fl y. Just like the real thing, it has great power-to-weight ratio and is nimble in the air.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCEStability: Equipped with the AS3X fl ight stabilization system, the model has uncanny stability when taking off and in fl ight. Blustery wind has little eff ect on it. It can cruise along like a sport plane and slow to a crawl, especially when you lower the fl aps. When the fl aps are fully deployed, there was a tendency to climb, and down-elevator trim is required and varies slightly with the diff erent batteries.Tracking: Tracking is impressive to say the least. On the ground, taxiing is a piece of cake. I used some rudder for coordinated turns, but besides that, it’s simply point and shoot!Aerobatics: I was hesitant to get the Cub low and slow and inverted, but being designed by Quique Somenzini, the Carbon-Z Cub is just a blast. Inverted fl ight is much more stable than anticipated. � e model has a very wide speed envelope and it does a sweet snap roll and beautiful fl at spins. Recovery is pretty much instantaneous. Loops and rolls are a walk in the park with a manageable roll rate. As I mentioned, inverted performance is great. When I pointed the Cub’s nose up, I was surprised at how well it hovered with some surplus power to spare. Glide and stall performance: When coming in for landing, the Cub has amazing slow speed capabilities. � ough very eff ective, the fl aps aren’t really required but add a lot of fun. � e fi rst notch of fl aps gives a smooth and predictable sink rate. � e second notch produces a more notable braking eff ect, and with full fl aps, it’s like throwing out a boat anchor! A little power is required with fl aps unless you’re in a very steep approach. � e AS3X system does an amazing job with no notable pitch changes and solid stability — even when fl ying at a crawl. When pushed beyond its limits, the Carbon Cub will eventually stall. � is is very tame and will simply break straight ahead (with the wings level).

PILOT DEBRIEFINGTakeoff rolls are brief and even shorter with fl aps. � e Cub has uncanny stability regardless of airspeed, yet the AS3X gives full control authority when needed. I’ve just crowned the Carbon-Z Cub the best plane on the planet for shooting touch-and-gos. It’s not often that you fi nd a plane that will do 3D aerobatics, can sport fl y, has great short fi eld performance, and can be in the air in an hour.

In the Air

UNIQUE FEATURES � e Carbon-Z Cub comes as a Bind-N-Fly (BNF) Basic package and everything needed to get the plane fl ight ready is included in the box except a fl ight battery pack and transmitter. Included are the airframe, the landing gear, over-size tundra tires (molded from tough lightweight foam), a brushless motor, speed

control, digital servos, propeller, spinner, vortex generator strips, hardware, detailed instruction booklet, and 6-channel AS3X receiver. It also comes as a Plug-N-Play version where you supply your own receiver.

� e airplane is beautifully molded from durable Carbon-Z-reinforced foam and has painted-on color trim. � e fuselage has two

Molded hatches make access to the model’s interior very easy. � e AS3X receiver can be seen here.

removable hatches. � e rear one is for radio access and locks down with a screw, and the front one, which has a convenient push-button latch, allows for easy access to the battery pack. � e vertical fi n is molded into the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer is removable and has a carbon-fi ber spar. A pair of machine screws on each side locks the stabilizer halves into position. � e rudder is partly hinged and just requires a few drops of CA once mated to the vertical fi n. � e elevator, fl aps, and ailerons are all fully hinged at the factory.

� e tail control surfaces have molded plastic control arms that are an integral part of the components. � e two-piece wing features a


MARCH 2013 21

The molded vortex generators are scale (used on the full-size airplane) and help improve slow speed performance.

Flap and aileron servos are mounted in the wing panel in front of the control sur-faces, which produces short, slop-free control linkages.

pushrods are all factory installed. The flaps and ailerons have their own servos but are not plugged directly into the receiver. The leads plug into receptacles at the wing roots at the top of the cabin area.

ConClusionThe Carbon-Z Cub is the biggest airplane to roll off the E-flite assembly line. Being a PNP design, the Carbon-Z Cub is a real treat because it is fully equipped and ready to fly in about an hour of assembly time. This was also the first time I flew using the built-in AS3X 3-axis stabilization system and feeling it command the control surfaces during gusts in the air was great. The Carbon-Z Cub is a great plane that would be right at home in the hands of any level RC pilot.

carbon-fiber spar and functional lift struts. The struts install with cotter pins and tools aren’t necessary. The wire landing gear fits in a channel in the bottom of the fuselage and uses standard wheel collars to lock on the biggest lightweight wheels I have ever seen! The tailwheel comes installed into the base of the rudder.

The E-flite BL50 brushless outrunner motor

comes in the kit and must be installed, and the E-flite 60-amp brushless speed control is installed at the factory. The cowling fits snuggly onto the fuselage and two small screws keep it in place. The included prop adaptor, plastic spinner, and propeller conclude the power system installation.

The E-flite digital servos, Spektrum AS3X 6-channel receiver, and the majority of the

Cub Meets WaterThe optional E-flite floats are purpose-built for the Carbon-Z Cub. They are made of molded foam and have inlaid plastic strips in high-wear areas. The floats install just like the landing gear, with the gear fitting in channels in the fuselage. One float has a built-in steering servo, pushrod, and water rudder. The servo hatch is sealed at the factory with only the servo lead protruding. A rudder servo extension lead is needed to connect the float steering servo to the receiver.

With the single water rudder, the Carbon-Z Cub tracks wonderfully on the water. It gets up immediately, needing only a little up-elevator to cleanly break it free from the water’s surface. With floats attached, flight characteristics are similar to the ground version, with just a little more drag and weight. I flew the model with both a Thunder Power 6S 4350mAh LiPo pack and a lighter E-flite 6S 3200mAh pack. The lighter pack doesn’t affect flight characteristics much until flaps are deployed. I needed to add down-elevator trim to prevent the Cub from pitching up. Landing on floats is just as easy as on wheels and is definitely more gratifying. The landing approaches with the first notch of flaps were sweet!



“I’m amazed at the difference these shades make

while flying my RC planes. I don’t think I will ever fly without them again.”

— Gerry Yarrish, Electric Fight Senior Technical Editor

Vess Balance Rings Once you get into the larger size airplanes, balancing your propeller becomes extremely important. Flying your plane with an out-of-balance condition causes unwanted vibrations and puts extra wear and tear on your airframe. A Vess Balance Ring is an innovative tool for balancing giant-scale props. CNC machined from aluminum, the Balance Ring replaces your standard prop washer and utilizes setscrews around the perimeter to bring the prop into perfect balance. $25-$27; vessaero.com

Fromeco DC-UP Mk II Cricket Ever had the experience where you are fl ying aggressive maneuvers and control feels momentarily sluggish? is is a classic voltage dip symptom. You no longer have to worry because Fromeco’s DC-UP Mk II Cricket will make sure your voltage stays up. It’s a fl ight system voltage stabilization device designed to deliver power whenever there are high current spikes and prolonged current draw. e unit is simple and easy to use – just plug it into an open port on your receiver. $35; fromeco.org

airframe. A Vess Balance Ring is an airframe. A Vess Balance Ring is an innovative tool for balancing giant-scale innovative tool for balancing giant-scale props. CNC machined from aluminum, the props. CNC machined from aluminum, the Balance Ring replaces your standard prop Balance Ring replaces your standard prop washer and utilizes setscrews around the washer and utilizes setscrews around the perimeter to bring the prop into perfect perimeter to bring the prop into perfect balance. $25-$27; vessaero.com$25-$27; vessaero.com

TOP 20 FIELD & BENCH GUIDEEditors’ picks for useful tools, accessories, and gear

Extreme Glare SunglassesDon’t lose another model in the glare of the sun! From the same guy that introduced RC pilots to Zurich International sunglasses, Extreme Glare sunglasses are for the pilot who wears prescription shades. Owner Bruce Holden can now produce stylish sunglasses with various designer frames and manufacture distortion-free shades with your own prescription. Several types of frames and lens shading are available, and prices start at only $99 depending on the type of glasses and lenses you order. z-xg.com

Top 20 Field Tools.indd 22 11/22/13 2:12 PM

MARCH 2014 23

Hitec X1 Touch Multi-Chemistry Charger� is impressive, cutting-edge charger is designed with ease of use and portability in mind. � e X1 Touch, a 55-watt sensational charger, uses an 11 to 18V DC power source or an internal AC power supply to provide versatility to satisfy all RC pilot’s needs. � e high-resolution touchscreen allows eff ortless data monitoring and retrieval, and its built-in internal cell balancer and multiple safety functions provide ultra-reliable, rock-solid performance. It can charge NiMH, NiCd, LiPo, LiFe, Li-Ion, and lead-acid batteries, and the adjustable charge current rate provides .1 to 7 amps. $99.99; hitecrcd.com

Du-Bro Tru-Spin Prop Balancer � e Tru-Spin Prop Balancer is specially designed with a locking cone to securely center and lock the propeller onto the balancing shaft. � e balancing shaft is manufactured out of hardened material and precision ground. � e friction-free aluminum support wheels support the shaft and allow an amazing degree of accuracy. It can be used for all sizes and weights of airplane and boat props, spinners, heli rotor heads, and EDF jet fans. Each balancer comes complete with easy-to-follow assembly and prop balancing instructions. $37.28; dubro.com

Hitec X1 Touch Multi-Chemistry ChargerHitec X1 Touch Multi-Chemistry Charger� is impressive, cutting-edge charger is designed with ease of use and � is impressive, cutting-edge charger is designed with ease of use and portability in mind. � e X1 Touch, a 55-watt sensational charger, uses portability in mind. � e X1 Touch, a 55-watt sensational charger, uses an 11 to 18V DC power source or an internal AC power supply to provide an 11 to 18V DC power source or an internal AC power supply to provide versatility to satisfy all RC pilot’s needs. � e high-resolution touchscreen versatility to satisfy all RC pilot’s needs. � e high-resolution touchscreen allows eff ortless data monitoring and retrieval, and its built-in internal cell

TOP 20 FIELD & BENCH GUIDEEditors’ picks for useful tools, accessories, and gearFIELD & BENCH GUIDEEditors’ picks for useful tools, accessories, and gear

Get two or more RC modelers together and before you know it, there

will be a discussion about which tool, product, or accessory is the

best for a certain task or purpose. � e same holds true for editors

here in the offi ce, so we came up with this guide to showcase the

top 20 whizbangs, gizmos, and doodads that we found useful in the

workshop and at the fl ying fi eld. Check it out and see if we picked any

of your favorites. By the Electric Flight Crew Photos by Peter Hall

$99.99; hitecrcd.com

Du-Bro � e Tru-Spin Prop Balancer is specially designed with a locking cone to securely center and lock the propeller onto the balancing cone to securely center and lock the propeller onto the balancing shaft. � e balancing shaft is manufactured out of hardened material and precision ground. � e friction-free aluminum support wheels support the shaft and allow an amazing degree of accuracy. It can be used for all sizes and weights of airplane and boat props, spinners, heli rotor heads, and EDF jet fans. Each balancer comes complete with easy-to-follow assembly and prop balancing instructions.

FIELD & BENCH GUIDEFIELD & BENCH GUIDEFIELD & BENCH GUIDE

Get two or more RC modelers together

will be a discussion about which tool, product, or accessory is the

best for a certain task or purpose. � e same holds true for editors

here in the offi ce, so we came up with this guide to showcase the

top 20 whizbangs, gizmos, and doodads that we found useful in the

Hitec RCD Universal Balancing AdaptorSimplify all your charging and balancing chores with the Universal Balancing Adapter from Hitec. Compatible with 2S to 6S LiPo packs, this all-in-one board works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers and includes EH, TP, XH, and HP

balancing ports. It allows you to balance all major brands of lithium battery packs while charging, with no need for additional adaptors. $15.99; hitecrcd.com

Single-Use ZAP GlueZAP CA adhesives from Pacer Technologies are found on every builder’s supply shelf. ZAP has noticed that lots of bottles of glue get thrown into the fi eld box (along with some Zip Kicker) for quick fi eld repairs. Now, a new “single-use” version of Zap-A-Gap is available to help save on space. � e handy .5-gram tubes have a fi ne, self-piercing applicator tip. Just twist it tightly into place and the tube is ready to use. Packaged in a fi ve-tube card, the new single-use Zap-A-Gap should be in every RC pilot’s fi eld box. zapglue.com

Hitec RCD Universal Balancing AdaptorSimplify all your charging and balancing chores with the Universal Balancing Simplify all your charging and balancing chores with the Universal Balancing Adapter from Hitec. Compatible with 2S to 6S LiPo packs, this all-in-one board Adapter from Hitec. Compatible with 2S to 6S LiPo packs, this all-in-one board works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers and includes EH, TP, XH, and HP works with all Hitec X and H series of chargers and includes EH, TP, XH, and HP

balancing ports. It allows you to balance all balancing ports. It allows you to balance all major brands of lithium battery packs while major brands of lithium battery packs while charging, with no need for additional adaptors. charging, with no need for additional adaptors. $15.99; hitecrcd.com$15.99; hitecrcd.com



FIELD & BENCH GUIDE

Futaba BR-3000 Battery CheckerStay in the know when it comes to the condition of your battery packs. e Futaba BR-3000 checks the state of 2- to 7-cell LiFe, LiPo, and Li-Ion packs with JST-XH connectors and 4- to 7-cell NiCd and NiMH packs. e meter displays the pack’s total voltage and remaining capacity on a bar graph and in percentage. Voltage of each cell of a lithium battery pack can also be displayed. e unit operates on the power supplied by the connected battery. $49.99; futaba-rc.com

Glo-Bee Intellitach Digital Tachometer Distributed by Great Planes, the Glo-Bee Intellitach is an easy to use tachometer with an easy to read digital readout (0 to 30,000rpm). Adjustable for 2-, 3-, and 4-blade propellers, the tachometer also has a memory function for comparing diff erent propeller setups. (It “remembers” the last three readings.) It shuts itself off after fi ve minutes to save the batteries and the display fl ips up for comfortable reading angles. $24.99; greatplanes.com

“I use this battery checker to avoid unhappy surprises when I’m on the flightline. Knowledge is power — pun intended!” — Debra Cleghorn, Electric Fight Executive Editor

RTL Fasteners Hardware Value PacksWhen it comes to building and assembling RC models, you are always in need of good-quality hardware — that being nuts, washers, screws, and bolts. RTL Fasteners is a great one-stop shopping destination. From their Standard 84-piece Set Screw Assortment with Organizer Box ($19.95) to all their high-count value packs of hardware like the 50-count 2-56x1/2-inch Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screw Set ($5.40); 50-count M5 Lock (split) Washer Set ($1.50); and 24-count 4-40 Hex Nuts Set ($1.40), RTL Fasteners’ hardware is a great value when it comes to supplying your workshop with quality fasteners. rtlfasteners.com

Hobbico Propeller Reamer Constructed of hardened carbon steel, this Precision

Prop Reamer is ideal to enlarge holes in propellers and spinner backplates. Unlike a drill bit, the Reamer’s design

perfectly centers it in the propeller attachment holes and includes 1/4-, 5/16-, and 3/8-inch steps to size

the hole. With its removable T-handle, the Reamer can also be used with a drill press for extra precision.

$14.99; hobbico.com

Stay in the know when it comes to the condition of your battery packs. e Futaba BR-3000 checks the state of 2- to 7-cell LiFe, LiPo, and Li-Ion packs with JST-XH connectors and 4- to 7-cell NiCd and NiMH packs. e meter displays the pack’s total voltage and remaining capacity on a bar graph and in percentage. Voltage of each cell of a lithium battery pack can also be displayed. e unit operates on the power supplied by the connected

flightline. Knowledge is power — pun intended!”

value when it comes to supplying your workshop with quality fasteners. rtlfasteners.com

Stay in the know when it comes to the condition of your battery packs. e Futaba BR-3000 checks the state of 2- to 7-cell LiFe, LiPo, and Li-Ion packs with JST-XH connectors and 4- to 7-cell NiCd and NiMH packs. e

flightline. Knowledge is power — pun intended!”





$14.99; hobbico.com





$14.99; hobbico.com


MARCH 2014 25

Eagle Tree Systems Guardian Both novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t from Eagle Tree’s Guardian 2D/3D stabilizer in their aircraft. � e Guardian provides protection for your investment, while making it easier to perform advanced 3D maneuvers! If you are just learning 3D aerobatics, the Guardian can help take out the fear factor if you get into trouble. Just let go of the sticks and the Guardian quickly brings your model back to level fl ight. $74.99; eagletreesystems.com

Hangar 9 Angle Pro Digital Meter � is precision angle meter works on models of all types and sizes. � e digital readout is accurate to 1/10 of a degree and features a Zero-Out function to establish a level reference setting. Available separately or as a complete 4-in-1 unit, the Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws, incidences, and thrust angles. $55.99; hangar-9.com

Both novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t from Eagle Tree’s Guardian 2D/3D stabilizer in their aircraft. � e Guardian provides protection for your investment, while making it easier to perform advanced 3D maneuvers! If you are just learning 3D aerobatics, the Guardian can help take out the fear factor if you get into trouble. Just let go of the sticks and the Guardian quickly brings your model back to level fl ight.

setting. Available separately or as a complete 4-in-1 unit, the Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws, incidences, and thrust angles. incidences, and thrust angles.

SIG E-Pro Field Box Specially designed for modelers who operate electric-powered airplanes and helicopters, the E-Pro Field Box provides a sturdy, portable work station you can take anywhere. � ere’s plenty of room for extra battery packs, tools, and spare parts. Constructed of fi ne-grade plywood, the parts are laser-cut to assure an accurate fi t. A large compartment houses a 12-volt power supply battery, and banana plugs and wiring are included for quick connections. Adjustable, cushioned cradles make working on your model a piece of cake. Complete hardware and illustrated assembly manual included. $86.99; sigplanes.com

WingTote Wing BagsFor traveling to RC events or for safe storage of your airplane’s wings in the workshop, these custom-made, padded tote bags come in a variety of types and sizes to suit just about any type and size airplane you have — even biplanes. With strong zippers and Velcro straps to securely hold the wing panels from shifting, these tote bags also feature reinforced carry straps for easy transportation. Prices start at $59.99; wing-tote.com

Eagle Tree SystemsBoth novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t Eagle Tree SystemsBoth novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t

Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws, incidences, and thrust angles. Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws, incidences, and thrust angles. incidences, and thrust angles. Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws,

$55.99; hangar-9.com

Guardian Both novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t

Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws,

Both novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t from Eagle Tree’s Guardian 2D/3D stabilizer in

Eagle Tree Systems Guardian Both novice and expert pilots alike can benefi t

Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws, incidences, and thrust angles. $55.99; hangar-9.com

Hangar 9 Angle Pro Digital Meter � is precision angle meter works on models of all types and sizes. � e digital readout is accurate to 1/10 of a degree and features a Zero-Out function to establish a level reference setting. Available separately or as a complete 4-in-1 unit, the Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws,

panels from shifting, these tote bags also feature reinforced carry straps for easy transportation. Prices start at $59.99; wing-tote.com

Angle Pro can be used to accurately measure control throws,

ProTek RC Universal Radio Case � e ProTek RC Universal Radio Case is an all-in-one solution to protect your transmitter and can also protect transmitters you buy in the future. � e case itself features a tough aluminum shell and houses a high-density foam liner to protect your particular transmitter. Available separately, the replaceable high-density foam inserts allow the case to accommodate a variety of transmitters. $49.99; protekrc.com



FIELD & BENCH GUIDE

“I purchased this stand to work on one particular plane,

but once I got it, I found that I was using it to hold

every single model that came through my workshop.”

— John Reid,Electric Fight Senior West Coast Editor

Robart Super Stand II To be useful and popular with modelers, a product does not have to be expensive. � is fully adjustable molded foam workstand from Robart Mfg. falls into the category. Keeping the model off the workbench prevents hangar rash! Easy to assemble, the stand has four adjustable support tabs and it is strong enough to support giant scale airplanes while you work on it. $24.95; robart.com

Smart-Fly Digital VoltmeterWhen it comes to the health and well-being of your plane, nothing is as important as the voltage in your receiver’s battery pack. � e Digital Voltmeter from Smart-Fly is a quick and easy add-on to keep track of that voltage. It has an operating range of from 4 to 16V and a very low power consumption. With a 10-inch power lead (with JR connector), you simply plug it into a spare channel on your receiver for a constant readout of your battery’s voltage. $34.95; smart-fl y.com

Robart Paint Shaker For scale modelers who use airbrushes to add the fi nest of details to their planes, the quality and consistency of the paint is of extreme importance. � e airbrush can easily clog or splatter the fi nish if your paint is not mixed properly. Enter the Hobby Paint Shaker from Robart Mfg. Powered by a powerful electric motor, the unit is rated at 5000 “spm” (shakes per minute), and it has a sturdy paint bottle holder and retaining strap. Available in a battery-operated version ($40.45) and a 110V version ($51.45), the Hobby Paint Shaker makes quick work of any type of modeling paint. Spare straps in a package of fi ve ($6.95) are also available. robart.com �

TrakPower Solder Station � is high-quality electronic soldering unit delivers professional results and dependable performance for any hobby application, from fi ne electronics to heavy wire landing gear. It is a heavy-duty, 60-watt design, and it heats up quickly to the selected temperature, and holds the settings to within 1.8 degrees F. � e slender, insulated handle is comfortable to grip, and the unit comes with a chisel point tip and a fi ne pencil tip. Also included are a steady iron stand, sponge, and vinyl wrap. $79.98; trakpowerusa.com

“I purchased this stand to work on one particular plane,

but once I got it, I found but once I got it, I found that I was using it to hold that I was using it to hold

every single model that came through my workshop.”through my workshop.”

Electric Fight Senior West Coast EditorElectric Fight Senior West Coast Editor



Durafl y

Junior Part of the Retro Series, this park fl yer is inspired by yesteryear!By Gerry Yarrish Photos by Peter Hall

Growing up in the early 1960s, I was introduced to model airplanes by my father at a very young age. We built plenty of stick and tissue free-fl ight models from 5- and 10-cent store kits, and I remember the smell of the dope, Testors Model Cement, and Ambroids quick drying glue. I always had bits of tissue paper and silkspan stuck to my fi ngers. It wasn’t until several years later that I fl ew my fi rst successful RC airplane. My dad’s generation was very active and there were countless events and national competitions to fl y the early free-fl ight models at. In the days before RC radios, these early models relied on built-in stability and the modeler’s skills in properly trimming its wings and tail surfaces. After only a 15- to 20-second engine run, the model would glide back to Earth and land on its wheels (hopefully).

Pilot Report

PR Durafly Junior.indd 28 11/25/13 10:50 AM

MARCH 2014 29

Gear usedRadio: Receiver: OrangeRx 6-channel (hobbyking.com); four 9G HobbyKing servos (installed) Motor: Brushless outrunner (installed)ESC: 30A (included)Propeller: 7.5x6 (included)

Highlights�+ Easy assembly

�+ Easy to fl y

�+ Durable construction

Specifi cationsModel: Retro Series JuniorType: Vintage old-timer park fl yerManufacturer: Durafl y (durafl y.com)Distributor: HobbyKing (hobbyking.com)Wingspan: 43 in.Wing area: 305.51 sq. in.Weight: 32 oz.Wing loading: 15.08 oz./sq. ft.Length: 30.5 in.Radio req’d.: 4-channel (rudder, elevator, aileron, throttle)Power req’d: 7.4V 30APrice: $112.08



� e Junior easily fi ts into the trunk of my compact car when fully assembled,

and with a fully charged pack already installed, it only took a few seconds to get the Junior into the air. With its 7.25-inch propeller, the stock setup does provide enough thrust to take off from the ground, but the model is not over-powered and takes a good bit of space to lift off . I found it much more effi cient to simply power up the model and hand-launch it with an easy overhand toss. Once in the air, I trimmed the model for straight and level at about 2/3 power.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCEStability: Like its predecessors, the Junior has fl ight stability to spare. It would indeed make a great fi rst airplane as it is plenty durable to be used as a trainer. Rudder authority is excellent and very little elevator is needed once trimmed out.

Tracking: � e model tracks nicely, but really, with all the dihedral in the wing, the ailerons are a nice touch but not really needed. You can easily fl y the plane with rudder, elevator, and throttle alone. � ere is a bit of adverse yaw when you put in a lot of aileron, so be sure to coordinate your aileron with lots of rudder.

Aerobatics: With so much stability, the trade off is limited maneuverability. � ere’s plenty of power for nice, easy loops and you can climb and do wingovers. I did not spin the model but with all the rudder authority, entry and recovery should not be any problem at all.

Glide and stall performance: � e stall is very mild, and the Junior recovers almost by itself with just a touch of power added and the release of the up-elevator input. Landings are a piece of cake and the model glides nicely with reduced power. Once the model is down, it does not have any tendency to nose-over because the landing gear is set so far forward, just like the older free-fl ight models did. Of course, this is to protect the propeller.

PILOT DEBRIEFINGI really enjoyed fl ying the Junior, and I treated it like an RC-assisted free-fl ight model. Once in the air, adjust the model’s power and elevator trim so it fl ies and cruises around without climbing. Adjust the rudder trim and try to get the model to fl y in a big lazy circle. Use minimal control inputs and make slight throttle adjustments to control climb. � rottle up a little to climb and throttle back a little to descend. If you have to, use the controls to bring the model back should the wind carry you away from the runway. � is is how the early RC models were fl own, and you’ll fi nd it quite rewarding to fl y your model with minimal control stick inputs.

In the AirWith modern radios and power systems, being successful with model

airplanes today is all but guaranteed. With models that combine early free-fl ight model thinking with up-to-date radio and power equipment, today’s modelers can enjoy the best of both time periods.

� e new Junior park fl yer from Durafl y is just that. Part of the Retro Series and distributed by HobbyKing, the Junior has all the visual cues of one of my father’s stick-built, free-fl ight planes, with the durability and controllability of any molded park fl yer. Glancing at some of the photos in my father’s old scrapbook, the Junior reminds me of a modern version of the Megow’s Quaker Flash. Let’s take a closer look!

UNIQUE FEATURESMolded from EPO foam, even close up the Junior looks like a stick-built plane. Durafl y has added, under the paint, several dark strips that look very much like a basic balsa wood structure. Even the typical scalloped shape of the cloth-covered wings is precisely captured in the molded foam structure. � e model has a classic cream and black paint scheme and it looks like a pretty convincing silkspan fi nish while gliding up in the air currents above the fl ying fi eld. � ough the wings are attached to the fuselage with modern nylon bolts, the kit comes with large elastic bands for a vintage look.

I TREATED IT LIKE AN RC-ASSISTED FREE-FLIGHT MODEL ... THIS IS HOW THE EARLY RC MODELS WERE FLOWN, AND YOU’LL FIND IT QUITE REWARDING TO FLY YOUR MODEL WITH MINIMAL CONTROL STICK INPUTS.

� e radio compartment is located in the belly; it’s easy to replace and arm the 1300mAh battery pack.


march 2014 31

Assembly takes only minutes and you can have the model completely ready to go while the battery pack is on charge. All the servos (four 9g servos), the motor, and the speed control come installed. Once the tail and wing are secured into place, all you have to do is attach the control linkage to the control horns. There is a small hinged hatch cover under the fuselage that provides access to the battery compartment. This is also where you install the receiver as all the servo leads and the ESC lead terminate in this compartment. You can see the rudder and elevator servos inside the cabin area, and you’ll attach the aileron servo leads in the cabin before bolting the wing into place. Once the receiver and servos are connected, all you have to do is install the included propeller and attach the wire landing gear. Assembly time takes 10 minutes at most.

The factory-installed brushless outrunner motor is housed in a nicely molded plastic cowling and, in keeping with the old-timer look, the Junior comes with a dummy engine cylinder installed on top of the “engine” cowling.

If you wanted to, you could also install the OrangeRx receiver with 3-axis stabilization. However, the servos plug into the top of the case and it wouldn’t fit as nicely into place as the standard 6-channel receiver. Plus, the Junior, with all its wing dihedral, is plenty stable without the electronic stabilization.

Bottom LineIf you want a taste of the early days of model aviation, or are just looking for a rugged easy-to-fly sport plane, then the Retro Series Junior from Durafly is for you. It only takes minutes to assemble and it practically flies itself. Welcome to yesteryear! J

T o get the Junior into the air, I installed the full-range, 6-channel OrangeRX receiver and bound it to the ORX T-Six transmitter. The full-range OrangeRX R615

receiver is very lightweight (only 9.8 grams), and it has servo connection ports on the end of the case making it ideal for small to medium sport planes where space is tight. It’s a perfect match for the ORX T-Six transmitter available from Hobby King. Once bound together, this radio system worked very well and I had complete control of the Junior all of the time. With a receiver priced at less than $6 and the transmitter having a street price of less than $65, this has to be the best deals for a 2.4GHz, 6-channel programmable radio system anywhere.

Affordable Reliability ORX T-SiX TRAnSmiTTeR

Above: The dummy engine cylinder and plastic cowl-ing give the Junior a real “spark ignition” model look.Left: The rubberbands are just for show. The wings bolt securely into place.Below: The tail surfaces easily screw into place. The control linkage is already installed and only has to be connected to the control horns.

Once the receiver and servOs are cOnnected, all yOu have tO dO is install the included prOpeller and attach the wire landing gear. assembly time takes 10 minutes at mOst.



Finishing a model airplane is usually thought of as the last two or three steps needed to be done before your model is ready to fl y. In reality, no amount of “fi nishing” work during the last few steps can make up for a poor building job. A proper fi nish should be your ultimate goal throughout the entire building process, not just an afterthought thrown in at the end. � e fi nishing process can often take longer than the initial framing out. My

most recent project was a Hall Bulldog and it required a high-gloss fi nish, so most of the work was done in preparing the various model surfaces for paint. Building the Bulldog was almost a side show. Generally, matte fi nishes are more forgiving when it comes to surface imperfections. � ey may be seen under certain lighting conditions, but glossy fi nishes show everything and are very unforgiving.

I built the Bulldog using so-called conventional construction methods — balsa sheeting for metal areas and fabric covering over open framework plywood and balsa. No matter how hard you try, balsa sheeting will eventually show grain due to expansion and contraction if it is fi lled and fi nished without fi rst being stabilized. While there are other methods, I use fi berglass cloth and resin to stabilize balsa surfaces. Although I have used both epoxy and polyester resin systems to affi x fi berglass, such methods can get heavy in a hurry. For my smaller and mid-size models, I have settled on using water-based varnish (satin Minwax Polycrylic) to apply the fi berglass. � is system does not yield as hard of a surface as with a two-part resin, but it is close, and it’s a lot lighter. � e steps I employ after the glass treatment fi rm up the surfaces even more.

Pro Tips for a Perfect FinishIt’s what’s under the paint that makes the diff erence By Rob Caso

areas and fabric covering over open framework plywood and balsa. No matter how hard you try, balsa sheeting will eventually show grain due to expansion and contraction if it is fi lled and fi nished without

What’s needed?Glue: Devcon epoxy, ZAP CA, Titebond III (Aliphatic)Fiberglass parts: ZAP laminating epoxy, West System epoxy, Fiberglass SpecialtiesPaint: Randolph dope, Klass Kote epoxy, Dupli-Color primer, Krylon paint, Minwax PolycrylicFiberglass cloth and chopped strands: Fibre Glast Filler: DAP spackle, Evercoat 2-part glazing putty, Bondo glazing puttyCovering: SIG KoverallMasking: 3M vinyl tape

About the author Rob Caso has been a Model Airplane News contributor for many years. He is an expert scale RC model airplane designer, builder, and pilot, and has produced many amazing electric-powered airplanes, many of which can be found in the Model Airplane News Plans library at AirAgeStore.com. Rob built the Hall Bulldog to participate in a special scale NEAT Fair Air Racing Society event at the recent NEAT Fair. Be sure to read Final Approach in the February 2014 issue of Model Airplane News for more information on his amazing Bulldog racer.

HT Fiberglass.indd 32 11/25/13 10:04 AM

MARCH 2014 33

STEP 1: The sheeted (skinned) areas of the model are first sanded, filled, and brushed with nitrate dope. I then sand the model again to prep it for the application of 3/4-ounce fiberglass cloth. The water in the Polycrylic does tend to warp and do strange things to balsa, so always apply some dope first to waterproof the balsa.

STEP 2: No matter how hard you try, balsa also tends to flatten over unsupported areas. You can sand some of this out, but the skin may get too thin over the underlying structure. So, fill the flat spots with spackle to eliminate any faceting that would easily be seen in a gloss finish.

STEP 3: The procedure is the same for any size model — on my small Bulldog, the glass was applied once the fuselage was properly filled and rounded.

STEP 4 & 5: After glassing, brush on and sand off repeated coats of vinyl spackle (mixed to a heavy cream consistency with a couple drops of Polycrylic and water). When block sanding this off, do it at sweeping 45-degree angles, going one way first around the entire fuselage and then the other way so that the sanding strokes wind up being at 90 degrees of each other.

STEP 6: Once you have achieved a level surface, whisk on a coat of thinned Polycrylic to seal the surface and to check for waves and other imperfections.

STEP 7: After sanding again, I used an entire can of gray spray filler primer (without sanding between coats) and then wet sanded it off all at once. The primer coat should begin to exhibit a sheen at this point.



STEP 8: Additional high spots will start to show through the primer — any additional sanding will run the risk of going through the glass. The only answer is more filler or primer. But the surface shown here is getting very close to being done.

STEP 14: I used Klass Kote epoxy paint, which is heavy, but you don’t need much for it to cover. I assembled the model using temporary struts for the wings and the rudder and elevator were positioned with sections of toothpick.

STEP 9: There seem to be fillets everywhere on this model – all the surface junctions except for the stab/fuselage require careful filling and sanding to impart not only a smooth transition, but also a level and even sheen.

STEP 10: For most of the filleting, I used a syringe loaded with a mix of vinyl spackle, a couple of drops of Minwax Polycrylic, and a touch of water for consistency. The bead of filler is then smoothed with a finger, with any excess to either side being wiped away with a damp cloth. Once sanded in with progressively fine grades of paper, I then sealed the fillet with thinned out Polycrylic as the primer will dull unsealed areas.

STEP 11: I carefully covered the open area of the fuselage with a single piece of Sig’s Koverall and, for the covering to skin surface deviation, I then masked and filled the area with red glazing putty.

STEP 12: I made a paint stand that was bolted to the model in place of the firewall. It is critical to have proper fixtures for the priming and painting processes.

STEP 13: If all this isn’t enough, you now have to prime the fuselage with white primer or flat white paint as the red scheme will not cover gray or dark areas properly.


MARCH 2014 35

Parting Shot Everyone has their own favorite technique for fi nishing. However, after years of experimenting, I consistently use the methods described above for my smaller built-up models. � is, and all such similar fi nishing systems, represents a signifi cant commitment in terms of time, eff ort, and materials, so make sure you know your subject before diving in. When it comes to a beautiful, fl awless paint job, it’s what’s under the fi nish that counts. �

STEP 15: Flexible vinyl auto body tape was used to mask for the black and, while I made templates to guide the tape for the wing and tail fl ashes, the fuselage streaks were masked freehand. For the wing, I used the aileron bay to index the wing fl ash template for all (four) surfaces. With epoxy applied to a proper base surface, there is little risk of the masks pulling paint off the model.

STEP 16: Aluminum foil and auto body masking tape was used to mask the general areas once the vinyl tape was positioned. All the fun is in the masking – shooting the color is almost anticlimactic. I wet sanded out any dust before applying the second color.

STEP 17: Here is the fi nished open area of the fuselage.

Tech Tip: If you get dust in the fi nish, it may be wet sanded out with progressively fi ner grades of sandpaper — up to 2,500 grit — and then clear coated with Dupli-Color spray. To prep the covered areas, I doped them a few times and then used Polycrylic to seal the fabric’s weave and lightly sanded between coats. Don’t be shy here, as you will get pinholes in the fi nish if you don’t put on enough.

e model was pinstriped by a friend of mine who did one of my motorcycles!


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Taft Hobby

Mini Trainer This terrific little park flyer is the perfect entry into RCBy Larry Cooper Photos by John Reid

The new Mini Trainer from Taft Hobby is a great little park flyer designed to let a beginner start flying very quickly right out of the box. It has sturdy foam construction and includes almost everything you need to get it right into the air. The kit comes with all of the hardware necessary to complete the plane, all you add is a little epoxy to secure the tail section and four AA batteries for the included transmitter. The light color and bright decals make the plane easy to see and keep track of its orientation. The one-piece wing simply bolts to the fuselage and misalignment is virtually impossible. All of the servos, receiver, and the speed control are installed from the factory, so there is no fooling about with electronics installation. The nine-page instruction manual guides the new user through every step of the process from assembly to flight, including some very good tips for take off and landing.

Pilot Report

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MARCH 2014 39

Gear usedRadio: Transmitter, receiver and 3-servos (included)Motor: BL2222 and 15-amp speed control (included)Battery: 800mAh 7.4V 2-cell 30C LiPo (included)Prop: 6X6 (included)

Highlights�+ Easy to assemble

�+ Inexpensive

�+ Easy to fl y

Specifi cationsModel: Mini Trainer RTF 1MManufacturer: Taft Hobby Limited (taft-hobby.com)Distributor: Hobby People (hobbypeople.net)Type: Park fl yer Length: 33.5 in.Wingspan: 39.4 in.Wing area: 236.4 sq. in.Weight: 12.35 oz.Wing loading: 7.53 oz./sq. ft.Motor req’d: Brushless BL2222 (included) Radio req’d: 4-channel (included)Price: $139.99

Larry installs the battery pack into

the Mini Trainer.



I WAS PLEASANTLY SURPRISED TO FIND THAT BASIC AEROBATICS CAN EASILY BE DONE WITH THIS PLANE

I live out in the desert and grass is scarce. I usually fl y at dry lakes where the surface

is nice and fl at and level. � e Mini Trainer took off from the ground in approximately 60 feet or so. It had plenty of power to climb up to altitude and didn’t have any nasty tendency to stall. Rolling up to takeoff speed, the plane tracked nice and straight and I didn’t have to compensate for prop torque or do any steering to keep it straight. Once in the air, the plane levels out nicely and goes exactly where you direct it. Being an experienced pilot, I gave my control surfaces quite a bit of throw, so the plane responded quickly and positively to all of my inputs. I had a very gentle breeze of around three miles per hour on my maiden fl ight and it didn’t aff ect the plane in the slightest.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCEStability: � e Mini Trainer is very stable in the air and on the ground at all speeds.

Tracking: It tends to go right where you direct it and will stay on that path, but being a small plane, it will need some correction for wind.

Aerobatics: Keep in mind that this is a trainer, intended for beginners. With that said, I was pleasantly surprised to fi nd that basic aerobatics can easily be done with this plane. � e ailerons respond quickly and the plane can do rolls. Loops can be done as well, just keep the plane high until you get used to its response.

Glide and stall performance: It had a smooth predictable glide on landing and no nasty tendencies to stall in turns or on takeoff . I put it into some tight turns with the speed up and it had no tendency to slip stall. Flying nice tight fi gure-8s is fun with the Mini Trainer!

PILOT DEBRIEFING� e factory setting causes slow changes in elevation, which is desirable for new pilots. � e instructions that come with the plane give specifi c guidance for landing the plane. I allowed plenty of room and lined up on the runway about a hundred yards out. I backed the throttle down to about half and it settled into a nice predictable path. As you near the ground, fl are the plane a little to let the tricycle landing gear rear wheels touch fi rst. � rottle back and just let it roll to a stop. � at’s all there is to it!

In the Air

Initially, the new pilot should keep the control throws to the minimum settings for a nice docile fl ight. Once profi ciency is achieved, you can set the throws to the maximum and the Mini Trainer becomes a very agile and responsive intermediate pilot plane. � e landing gear is wire construction with plenty of strength and spring which allows the plane to absorb the shock of rough landings without sustaining damage to the air frame. � e kit includes an extra propeller, just in case you come in with the nose a little low.

UNIQUE FEATURES� e Mini Trainer takes very little work to get in the air. � e decals are installed and give the plane a fi nished look. Assembling the Mini Trainer is a piece of cake. It comes in three major sections; the fuselage, the wing assembly, and the tail assembly. � e only bit of building required is to mount the tail assembly to the fuselage. I chose to use fi ve-minute epoxy to secure the tail section to the fuselage. � ere is a tab-and-slot confi guration, so you can’t put the tail on crooked. � e mating surfaces also ensure that the elevator remains level. All of the hinges and hardware are installed from the factory, all you have to do is connect the control

Above: � e electronics all have been neatly installed into the fuselage. � e battery just slides in at the front of the fuselage.

Below: � e motor comes installed from the factory with the cowl glued in place. � e propeller and spinner are also installed.


march 2014 41

Taft Hobby Mini Trainer

horns to the push rods. Of course, adjusting the pushrod length is required to set the initial trim.

The wing assembly comes with the ailerons all ready hinged to the wing and the push rods are connected to the ailerons from the factory. I had to lengthen my pushrods a bit to achieve trim, but it was very easy. The wing fits neatly to the fuselage and you need to feed the servo wire through a little opening so it can be connected to the speed control.

Two screws hold the wing to the fuselage and the plane is rock solid. A little cover on the bottom of the fuselage is held in place with a magnetic latch. Open the cover and slide the battery all the way forward in the fuselage. My plane required about an ounce and half of lead to achieve the proper balance on the wing.

All of the electronics come installed and the only thing you need to do is plug in the aileron. The radio is already tuned to the receiver. Put in the four double A batteries and switch it on. Then plug in the battery

of the plane and you are almost ready to go. The channel that controls the rudder was reversed from the required setting, so I reset that to get proper rudder movement.

There are switches on the face of the radio to reverse the controls, so be careful to check them every time you turn on the plane.

The motor is already mounted in the fuselage and the prop and spinner are mounted as well. It really doesn’t get much easier than this to get a plane ready to fly!

ConClusionThis plane is a breeze to build and a newbie will have no difficulties getting it right. All of the adjustments are minor and normal for any plane. I had my plane ready to fly in about 45 minutes and half of that was waiting for the epoxy to dry. The mating of the parts makes it simple and foolproof. If you are mechanically challenged, this is the plane for you. J

I’ve been reviewing beginner airplanes for a few years now. It is always interesting to consider the

manufacturer’s ideas about entry-level planes. The best beginner planes share some common characteristics. They tend to be light and made of sturdy materials like EPP foam that help minimize crash damage. Early on, the planes came with brushed motors and NiCd batteries. They were often heavy and you never knew if they would get off the ground or not. The Mini Trainer is a great example of how far beginner planes have come in the last five years. It is light and sturdy with power to spare. The construction materials can take a beating and the performance can be enhanced as the newbie’s skill level improves.

The cost of getting into the hobby has also decreased considerably. My first plane, with the transmitter, electronics, battery packs, and battery charger cost me about $800. In stark contrast, the Mini Trainer comes with all of that and is almost completely built to boot. At $159, it is an incredibly affordable avenue into the hobby. You go to the store, buy one box and some AA batteries, and within an hour, you are ready to fly. My first kit took me about eight hours to assemble and I had epoxy all over the place. Installing the electronics was a bit of a mystery and servo reversing took three wise men and a team of German scientists to figure out.

You kids Have iT Made!

Above: The controls for the ailerons come installed and mine only needed a minor adjustment.

Below: The pushrods just need to be adjusted for length and snapped into place.

The landing gear are spring steel and just snap into place in the provided slots of the fuselage.

The wing is held in place with two screws.



MARCH 2014 43

Helicopter SectionSPECIAL

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44 Heli Talk: Light ’Em Up! Equip your heli for night fl ightBy Jim Ryan

48 2DogRC Dualsky Hornet 460A quick, easy-to-assemble quadcopter for any pilot By John Reid

52 Ares Chronos FP 110� e perfect bird for moving beyond the coaxial group of helicopters By John Reid

Heli Opener_0314.indd 43 11/25/13 9:25 AM


Heli Talk: Light ’Em Up! Equip your heli for night fl ight By Jim Ryan

RC’ers love novelty — anything to make fl ying a little diff erent. Float fl ying, aerotow, aerial video; all these add variety, but one of my favorites is night fl ying. � ere’s something absolutely magical about fl ying in the dark. My eff orts with night fl ying go back nearly 20 years, starting with spotlights, then Cyalume light sticks and fi nally LEDs. Back then, I was fascinated by the night helicopter demos presented by Howard Kendall at the MidAmerica Electric Flies in Ann Arbor. Howard was a pioneer in night 3D, and his beautiful lighting system and smooth pattern-infl uenced fl ying style made for an awesome display. � is was all years before I started fl ying helicopters, but I thought it was incredibly cool.

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Heli night fl ying has become a thriving niche in the sport, with the best 3D pilots crafting routines in which their lighting systems are choreographed to music. It’s very impressive, but maybe a little beyond most of us. � at said, when my local fl ying buddies started getting together for foamie night fl ying, I decided I needed to get my helicopters into the act!

I spent a weekend setting up my old reliable Align T-Rex 450SE for night fl ying, and I was hooked from the fi rst fl ight. Night fl ying with helis is even more fun than fi xed-wing fl ying. With the eff ect of the lighted blades, night helis are a big crowd-pleaser, and ironically, the lighting system can make orientation easier in than in daylight. Let’s look at how to convert a heli for night fl ight.

Night helis look terrifi c, and fl ying in the dark is an absolute blast. � is T-Rex 450 was converted to night ops in a weekend using readily available products.

Heli Talk0314.indd 44 11/22/13 1:08 PM

MARCH 2014 45

Let there be Light!The following is by no means a comprehensive summary of lighting systems, but rather a simple nuts and bolts approach to getting a night heli into the air. We’ll talk about simple lighting systems and provide some tips on making it all work. For our demo subject, we’ll start with a Century Heli Swift NX, an affordable 550-class machine with a simple structure and 5S power. The durable Swift is a good candidate for night ops, and its plain blow-molded canopy should look great with internal lighting. There are several technologies available to us, with the most popular being “glow wire” and LEDs.

Glow Wire. Glow wire is electroluminescent wire that glows like neon. The wire remains cool, and it can be used to outline features on your heli for a very nifty effect. There are a couple of catches: First, it requires a special driver — essentially a low-wattage 120V AC inverter–to make the wire glow, and this high-frequency driver should be kept isolated from your receiver. Second, glow wire has a finite lifespan, and the higher the frequency, the faster the wire starts to dim. That said, the overall effect is very cool, and many night fliers find it well worth the little extra work.

LED Strips. The other popular lighting option

is LED strips. I prefer LEDs because they’re inexpensive, reliable, and simple to set up. Power consumption is modest, and today’s LEDs are really bright. So for this project we’ll focus on LED strips for most of the lighting.

Care and feeding for LedsI want to keep this discussion accessible, but a few electronic basics are necessary. An LED, or Light Emitting Diode, is a semiconductor

that will glow when current flows through it in the proper direction (diodes are like one-way valves). The diode produces a given forward voltage drop (generally in the 2.2 to 3.0 volts range) and draws a nominal current (typically 20 to 30 milliamps).

LEDs have a fairly narrow voltage sweet spot: too low and they won’t light at all, and too much and they’ll burn up. But in their correct voltage range LEDs will provide dependable

The Swift NX from Century Heli is a good candidate for a night machine; it’s inexpensive and tough, and the blow-molded canopy makes internal lighting practical.

The LED strips are cut to length and secured in place with their self-adhesive backing. If you ever need re-position them, 3M’s VHB transfer adhesive is made to order. For the Swift, the strips were mounted on support bars to light the canopy internally.

Heli Talk0314.indd 45 11/22/13 1:08 PM


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light for years. The self-adhesive leD strips we’ll be using

are designed to run on 12 volts — essentially a 3S lipo pack. to do this, the leDs are wired in series in “blocks” of three, with a resistor added to obtain the correct voltage drop. The resistor’s value is carefully selected to protect the leDs from a fully charged pack and yet keep them lit to the very end of the flight. These blocks of three are linked in parallel to make long strips. Because they’re wired in parallel, you can have as many blocks as you like, and the leDs will all light uniformly. it’s really ingenious when you stop to think about it.

Strips of leDs can be installed wherever you like on your heli, and then you can link them all together like a daisy chain. it’s a good idea to have a couple of chains in your lighting system so that a single broken wire won’t take the whole system down.

Power oPtionsnow, i said the leD strips we’ll be using are designed to run on 12 volts. That’s great for 3S helis like my t-rex 450, but what about our bigger 5-cell Swift? There are a number of options for supplying power to your leD system:

Direct 12 Volt. if your heli is running a 3S lipo pack, you can simply tap power directly off the main battery connector. i always include a JSt connector in the wiring harness so i can disconnect the lights for day flying or for bench maintenance.

Center-Tapped Battery. another option that allows you to use the main battery is to “center tap” the battery so that the leD system receives the requisite 12 volts. This can be easily accomplished by wiring a female balancing connector to pull power from pins 1 and 4. in theory, this means the first 3 cells in the pack will be drained faster than the others, but the leDs pull so little current this really isn’t much

of a worry if you don’t fly your battery to the point of depletion and balance charge your packs between flights.

Split Battery Tap. if your heli is running a 6S flight battery, you can do a variation on the center tap by wiring a balancing connector so that cells 1 thru 3 and 4 through 6 power different sections of the light system. With this scheme all cells see about the same load, and the effective current drain is cut in half. This same approach can be applied to 12S systems.

Voltage Regulator. While a little more expensive to implement, a programmable voltage regulator or high-output Bec is probably the ideal solution. if your regulator can be programmed for 12 volts it’ll reliably power the leDs with no special maintenance required.

Separate Lighting Battery. Finally, you can simply install a separate 3-cell lipo pack to power the lights. even a small pack in the 500mah range will provide several flights worth of power, and the only down side is that you have another battery to charge and maintain.

all these power options are relatively simple to set up and highly reliable. Which you choose will depend on your heli’s particular power system and your personal preference.

After scraping the solder pads until they’re clean and bright, pre-tin the pads and the wire leads. You can then touch-solder them together with a fine tip. A hobby knife is helpful for holding the wire in place while soldering.

For fiberglass canopies the LED strips should be applied on the outer surface. Small holes are drilled at the ends of the strips so the wires can be routed internally, and a JST connector is glued to the upper rear edge with PFM or similar elastomeric glue.

Heli Talk0314.indd 46 11/22/13 1:08 PM

MARCH 2014 47

Let’s get startedBefore you start plastering LED strips all over your heli, take a little time to plan things out. Two important considerations are the overall visual effect you want to obtain and of course, the need to maintain orientation in pitch darkness. Like the nav lights on a full-scale aircraft, I like to put red LEDs on the left side of the tail boom and green on the right. A little farther forward I install blue or white LEDs on the bottom of the boom. This not only gives an additional visual cue, but LEDs shining downward give you a clear reference for height above ground level. Also, the heli floating along on a bright pool of light looks very cool!

LED strips on the landing skids also enhance visual appeal. The ideal if your heli is big enough is to make your own skid pipes with clear or tinted Lexan tubing and slip the LEDs inside. This looks very sharp and helps protect the lighting from dewy grass.

I apply my main attention to the canopy. On my T-Rex’s fiberglass canopy I applied three strips of LEDs: blue down the center and yellow along each side. These are connected with a Y-harness inside the nose, with very small holes drilled to route the wires to the LED strips. Secure a JST connector inside the back lip of the canopy with PFM or other flexible adhesive

so that it’s easy to connect in the dark. The LED strip down the center of your

canopy is a great visual reference; on a nose-in approach you can precisely gauge heading depending on whether the line curves to the left or right. I always use different colors up front than at the tail so there’s no chance of confusing the two.

For the Swift I adopted a different approach. Since its blow-molded canopy cries out for internal lighting, I made a curved frame from laminated 1/64-inch plywood to hold a light

strip inside the canopy. Farther back I installed bars of .060 G10 fiberglass to support more light strips without interfering with the cyclic servos. The result looks very cool and makes the heli really easy to see.

soLder connectionsWhile it’s fine work, soldering fine-gauge wire between the various LED strips is straightforward. Be sure to observe correct polarity, as LEDs will only allow current to flow

in one direction. Use a hobby knife to scrape the solder pads on the LED strips so they’re nice and bright. Pre-tin the pads and the very tips of your wires and then solder them together. If your eyes are like mine, you may find a magnifying visor helpful, but it’s really not difficult. Keep linking the strips together until you have everything lit up.

UntiL next timeThis takes care of the lighting up the main

airframe. Add a set of commercial night blades, and you’re ready to go flying. By all means, do your first night flights at dusk in a large space to give yourself a chance to get used to the look of the heli, but I think you’ll find orientation surprisingly easy.

There are several options for commercial night blades, but in my next column we’ll take a look at making your own LED blades to add a further individual touch your night bird. Until then, take on the night!

While some night fliers like to light up their helis like Las Vegas, even a few simple LED strips look good and provide more than enough visual cues for safe night flying. You may be surprised how easy night flying can be.

White LEDs on the bottom of the boom not only gives an additional visual cue, but also a clear

reference for height above ground level.

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2DogRC

Dualsky Hornet 460 A quick, easy-to-assemble quadcopter for any pilotBy John Reid

Specifi cationsModel: Hornet 460Manufacturer: DualskyDistributor: 2DogRC.comType: QuadcopterHeight: 4.34 in.Rotor span: 18.11 in.Weight: 25.75 oz.Motor req’d: IncludedRadio req’d: Any 5-channel radioPrice: $299.99

Highlights�+ Quick build

�+ Well-labeled and well-marked parts

�+ Easy-to-follow instructions

Gear UsedRadio: DX18QQ, Spektrum AR6210 receiver (spektrumrc.com) Motor: 4 Dualsky XM2830CA Hornet, ESC 4 Dualsky XC22A-Hornet (2dogrc.com)Battery: 3-cell 2200mAh Mad Dog LiPo (2dogrc.com)Prop: 9x4.7 SF (included)

Q uadcopters keep hitting hobby store shelves and continue to be a growing segment of our hobby. � ere is a good reason for that — they are easy to fl y, you can add a camera and have an eye in the sky, and you can fl y just about anywhere. After assembling a number of quads, I have to say that the 2DogRC

Dualsky Hornet 460 is one of the easiest to assemble and get up in the air quickly. Most of the unit is reinforced plastic parts with some carbon-fi ber reinforcement pieces at key points (center section and arms).

� e motor arms are assembled out of the box with the motors and speed controls already installed and hooked up. � e instructions are very clear, precise, and easy to follow, and all the parts are packaged in boxes and bags that are well marked for each step. � e motor arms are well marked in the box so you know which go in the front and which go in the back. � is is important because of the rotation of the motors. � e arms also have two diff erent-colored LED lights around the edge to make orientation and night fl ying easier. Overall, this is a very easy aircraft to put together and just about as easy to fl y. I would even say that a new pilot could easily build and fl y the Dualsky Hornet 460.

2Dog RC Hornet Quad.indd 48 11/22/13 1:12 PM

MARCH 2014 49

Right: Here is the Hornet 460 on the ground in the proper orientation, white

blades in front, black blades in the rear.

Left: The author with the Dualsky Hornet 460 hovering in front for the

camera.

UniqUe featUresIf you take all the parts out to examine them, be sure to set them back in the same box. Using the labeling on the box will make assembling the quad a little easier. The first step is to install a landing gear to each arm. The screws and bolts on this kit are rather tight and will require a good-fitting Phillips screwdriver to avoid stripping out the heads. I ended up using the largest screwdriver that would still fit in the holes. Next, I started screwing in each of the arms, which required four small screws each. Each arm slides onto the base flange, so there is a good connection before locking it into place with the four screws. Be sure to slide the correct arm into the bottom case slot, just match up the number on the base slot with the number on the arm. The numbers on the arms are located on the bottom. However, don’t look for numbers. Instead, depending on the arm you are looking at, there are dots marked on each arm ranging from one to four dots.

Now the cables can be connected from the mainboard to the flight controller and receiver. There are four plug ports on the main board for the cables and jumper. The largest plug (cable A) connects into port A on the mainboard with one of its plugs going into the C-port. Again, all of these cables, and plugs on the cables, are clearly marked and identified. The two jumpers are switches for the LEDs on each of the arms, each jumper making a connection between two arms. The four plugs on cable A are now plugged into the four speed control slots on the Dualsky Flight Controller. Then the other three cables that came with the Hornet 460 are plugged into the receiver and flight controller. Again, all the plugs are color coded, so there is no doubt about where they go. The only decision I had to make was which layout to use for the placement of the receiver and the controller. They can go on the bottom plate or the top plate, so I went with the top plate in order to have access to them if I need to adjust them later on.

The last step was to install the props: black in the rear and white in the front, making sure of the location for the normal and reversed props (there is one of each in both colors). Next, add the blue canopy and instal the battery pack on the bottom.



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CONCLUSION� ere really is very little building to be done to get this quad fl ying. It can easily be completed in one evening. If you can see colors and follow simple directions, you will not have any issues putting this bird together. Once at the fl ying fi eld, you should not have any issue getting the Hornet 460 in the air and fl ying it around. It is a very stable bird, but pilots who are new to quad fl ying should seek the help of an experienced quad pilot for the fi rst fl ight. �

Smile, You’re On CameraOne of the things that quadcopters do well is become a fl ying platform for photography and video. So, it only made sense to get the Dualsky Hornet GoPro mount. � is kit includes the mount made from G10 material and the bolts and nuts to install the mount to the center section. � ere are also some rubber grommets that are used to help reduce vibration from the quad or “jelly” eff ect from the quad during videos.

� e unit itself is very easy to install and the only tricky part is getting the rubber grommets in, but I found that using an old screwdriver (one that is not sharp) helped to get them in without tearing them up. You could also use some petroleum jelly to make it easier for them to slip in. I was very pleased at the results of this mount and how solid the video looks. � ere are two ways to mount the GoPro: either under or over the center section. Mounting it under will keep the props out of your images, but does put the GoPro close to the ground. I left my canopy off , but if you want to put it back on you will need to make your own measurements and cuts on it to make it fi t. Overall, this mount is a great addition to your Hornet 460 for only $24.99.

From start to fi nish, it took just about an hour to have the Hornet 460 ready for fl ight.

I decided to have both the controller and the receiver on the top tier of the unit to allow for easy access.

� ere are three fl ight rates on the Hornet 460. � e default is for

hovering and slow fl ight, the middle rate is for fast fl ight and sport fl ying, and the high rate is for extreme fl ight and fl ips! During my fi rst fl ight at my local fl ying fi eld, which has a nice asphalt runway, the Hornet 460 was set on low rates. However, afterwards I was able to take off this bird from dirt, grass, and the roof of my car. Takeoff was very uneventful, and even during the very fi rst fl ight the Hornet pulled straight up and needed very little correction to keep it on track. Once we got it in a hover, it needed very little stick movement to keep it on track. After a little hovering, it was time for forward fl ight and the Hornet did not disappoint. It was easy to fl y and maneuver around while fl ying forward. When it came time to land, I found it very easy to bring the Hornet around and pull it up for an stress-free landing. Because of the solid landing gears, I couldn’t help but bounce it a little on the pavement. Landing on the grass and dirt made for a softer landing. I think I just need a little more time on the sticks to grease in the landings on pavement.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCEStability: Stability is great! On low rates this bird is solid in the air and will stay in one spot with hands off the transmitter.

Tracking: It is very eff ortless to guide the Hornet in a straight line right down the runway. Once in forward fl ight, I had no problem guiding it all around the fl ying fi eld.

Aerobatics: Absolutely, just fl ip the rates to high and you can fl ip this bird from side to side and front to back. Hard angle turns are easy to pull off on high rates.

Glide and stall performance: No such thing with quads; they all glide like bricks.

PILOT DEBRIEFING� is is a great second quad for anyone. � e price is right and it is solid and stable in the air. � e only reason I would not recommend this as your fi rst bird is because of all the plastic parts, which give this a great look, but I am not so sure how it would handle the inevitable beating a new pilot would give to his fi rst quad. Once you get a handle on landing and fl ying, then head to 2DogRC’s website, pick up a Dualsky Hornet 460, and go have some fun.

In the Air



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Ares

ChronosFP 110 � e perfect bird for moving beyond the coaxial group of helicoptersBy John Reid

Specifi cationsModel: Chronos FP 110Manufacturer: AresDistributor: HobbyTown (hobbytown.com)Type: Beginner helicopterLength: 11.6 in.Height: 4.3 in.Main Rotor: 11.6 in.Weight: 3.2 oz.Motor req’d: IncludedRadio req’d: IncludedPrice: $99.99

Highlights�+ Easy to get into the air

�+ Durable

�+ Very easy to fl y

Gear UsedRadio: 4-channel (included) Motor: N40 (installed)Battery: 500mAh 1S 3.7V LiPo

G etting into fl ying helicopters can be rather intimidating. � ere are all kinds of moving parts and your thumbs have to master a whole new learning curve. I have some experience with quadcopters and I know that they have just about the same control setup as helicopters, so that should cut down the time it takes me to learn. When I got the Ares Chronos FP110 in for review,

I knew that this was the helicopter for me. It is an ultra-micro size bird, which I can fl y in the house, and because it’s so small, it will bounce and not get destroyed when it crashes. As a newbie helicopter pilot, I am sure there will be a number of crashes in my future. � e Chronos’ box read, “� e ideal helicopter for pilots looking to advance from coaxial helis or quadcopters!” � is described me and my abilities perfectly, so I knew it was meant to be.

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Ares

ChronosFP 110 The perfect bird for moving beyond the coaxial group of helicoptersBy John Reid

Another advantage of the Chronos is the advanced fixed-pitch and self-stabilizing rotor head design. This bird offers the agility of a single-rotor heli along with the stability of a coaxial platform, which should make it easier for me to learn the more advance flight that is associated with most helicopters. The packaging is designed for store shelves and all the parts are encased inside a Styrofoam case. The Chronos FP110 comes with the helicopter fully assembled, a transmitter, battery pack, battery charger, small Phillips screwdriver, extra

main blades and tail rotor, six AA batteries for the transmitter, and a nice 29-page manual. It is very clear that this design is made for the beginner helicopter pilot.

UniqUe featUresThis bird comes complete and fully assembled, and according to the manual, it is flight-tested at the factory. So, the first thing I did was get the battery on the charger, and because it comes partially charged, it should only take 30 to 40 minutes. This gave me some time to read

the manual, which includes a good amount of information for the new pilot.

The first part of the manual covers an overview of the Ares M4LPH transmitter that comes with the helicopter. After checking out the switches, I discovered it had a proportional mix trimmer knob, something I never had to worry about on plane transmitters. On the other side of the transmitter was a dual-rate button, something I was familiar with. The rest of the layout on the transmitter was identical to the plane transmitters I’m used to. The

Here is my instructor, Joe Aguilar demonstrating the Chronos FP 110 stability.



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proportional mix trimmer knob is used to adjust the amount of mixing between the main and tail motors. � is allows fi ne-tuning the rudder trim to help prevent the nose of the helicopter from drifting to the left or right when in a hover or while climbing or descending.

� e next section covered the control sticks and their eff ects on the helicopter when moved. Much of the controls are the same as fl ying an airplane — at least once it gets moving. During hovering mode, the helicopter reacts just like the quadcopters I have been playing with, so it should be no problem. By the time I was done reading about the controls, the battery charging was fi nished. Now the fun can begin!

� e transmitter is turned on fi rst. I set the throttle to low stick and made sure all of the trims were centered so there would not be any surprises at takeoff . � e battery is held in the front with some hook-and-loop fastener, and a strip of this is wrapped around the battery and battery bracket for added support. Once connected, you need to leave the Chronos FP110 alone and not move it until the gyro has calibrated. Once calibrated, the gyro will now know when the helicopter is level and will try to keep the helicopter in this position during the fl ight. An LED light blinks during the initialization process, and when that LED glow is a solid red, the control unit is initialized, armed, and ready

for fl ight. Now I can lock the canopy onto the frame at its three contact points, which provide very good support for the canopy. � e Chronos is now ready to be moved to an open area where I can start my fi rst helicopter fl ight.

CONCLUSIONWhat I like about the Chronos FP110 is that there is really no assembly, except installing the battery and canopy, which doesn’t take long at all. Once I got it in the air, it was very easy to control and I found it to be the perfect fi rst choice for my introduction to the world of helicopters. If you want to step into the rotor world like I did, this bird is a good choice for your fi rst fl ight. �

I took my Chronos FP110 out to my local fl ying fi eld for my fi rst fl ight with it, but I could have

just done it in my backyard. I chose the fl ying fi eld so I could solicit one of our helicopter experts to help me and watch over me during my fi rst fl ight. I was able to fl y from and land back on our paved runway, but you can take off from any smooth surface. I found out later that the Chronos would get snagged on carpet indoors (even short ones), but fl ying off of wood or tile fl oors was no problem.

Before taking off , I performed the motor control test to make sure everything was turning in the correct direction. I just raised the throttle stick high enough to get the rotor and tail rotor spinning. I made sure they were both spinning in the correct directions and then confi rmed that the tail rotor responded to the proper rudder stick inputs. Next, I took the helicopter up to about eye level and kept the tail toward myself so all of the stick movements would move the helicopter in the same direction. Once there, I used the trim tab to keep the heli from drifting. If it went left or right, I trimmed with the ailerons, and if it drifted forward or backward, I used the elevator trim. If it wanted to yaw left or right, that was taken out with the proportional mix trimmer knob.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCEStability: Because this is a beginner helicopter, it needs to be stable — and it is. When I ran into a problem, all I did was center the sticks, and if there was enough altitude, it would level out into a fl at hover. Tracking: Once the Chronos is moving along in forward fl ight, you can get it to track rather well. I was able to consistently duplicate fi gure 8s and have the crossing point right in front of me at the same height.Aerobatics: � is is really more of a trainer helicopter and isn’t really set up for aerobatics, but you can get it to do pirouettes, horizontal fi gure 8s, and other simple maneuvers. PILOT DEBRIEFING� is is a great learning helicopter because it can bounce off things it hits without suff ering any damage. It is also small enough to fl y in the house and the battery lasts a good 6 to 7 minutes. For beginners like myself, the Chronos FP 110 is a good helicopter that can be used in conjunction with a larger helicopter for fl ying at the fi eld. I use the Chronos so I can fl y indoors everyday and outside on nice days with little or no wind. Give one a try.

In the Air

Learning to FlyOne of the tools I like to use when learning a new maneuver, or in this case learning to fl y a new type of aircraft, is a fl ight simulator. � e RealFlight simulators have a number of helicopters in the lineup of aircraft available, and it is easy to fi nd one that closely resembles the Chronos FP110. Before fl ying my Chronos, I picked a small helicopter from the group of helicopters available and practiced hovering with it on the simulator. Once I felt comfortable hovering with the nose out, I tried it on the real helicopter, and to my surprise, it was remarkably similar. So much so that I could easily keep the helicopter hovering in one spot for the entire length of the battery charge. While the battery was recharging, I went back to the simulator and practiced fl ying the helicopter by moving

it from side to side while still keeping the nose out. Again, when I got to the real machine, it duplicated exactly what I learned on the simulator. I found it rather easy to hover and move the helicopter to the right, then hover again and move the helicopter back over to the left, and hover again. Once the helicopter was back on the charger, I was again practicing on the simulator — this time forward fl ight. By continuing to practice this way, within an hour I was able to fl y my Chronos FP 110 around the living room without running into anything and my fl ying skills improved rather quickly. � e next time you want to learn a new maneuver, master a new type of plane, or just learn how to fl y helicopters or quads, start on a fl ight simulator.


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Flyzone

Hadron This flying wing is so much fun it ought to be illegal! By Greg Gimlick

When you hear the name “Hadron,” you might think of the super collider in Europe, or if you’re a scientific type, you might think of the definition, which is a class of subatomic particles composed of quarks that take part in a strong interaction. The “strong interaction” portion of that certainly describes this model! The Flyzone Hadron may look like a mild delta wing airplane, but don’t be fooled: it can be as docile as you wish or as wild as a loose atomic particle. Construction is AeroCell foam with decals pre-applied to give it a military jet look. All electronics are installed so assembly is quick. My Tx-R version came with a receiver, 3S LiPo pack, and balancing charger, so only a compatible transmitter is required (I used my Tactic TTX650). This is nice setup for pilots who are experienced with low wing, aileron-equipped planes.

Pilot Report

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Gear usedRadio: Tactic TTX650 transmitter (tacticrc.com), receiver, three mini servos, one high-torque mini servo installedMotor: 35-36-2200Kv brushless motor & 40A speed control (installed), ElectriFly 11.1V 2200mAh LiPo Prop: Pusher (installed)

Specifi cationsModel: HadronManufacturer: Flyzone (fl yzoneplanes.com)Distributor: Great Planes (greatplanes.com)Type: Vectored thrust delta fl ying wingWingspan: 33.5 in.Wing area: 408 sq. in. Weight: 31 oz.Wing loading: 11 oz./sq. ft.Power incl’d: 35-36-2200Kv brushless motor Radio req’d: 6-channelPrice: $279.99 (Tx-R) Reviewer Greg Gimlick says,

“ is is an absolutely cool plane. e guys at the fi eld beg me to fl at-spin it!”

Tactic TTX650 transmitter (tacticrc.com), receiver, three mini servos, one high-torque mini servo

35-36-2200Kv brushless motor & 40A speed control (installed), ElectriFly 11.1V 2200mAh motor & 40A speed control (installed), ElectriFly 11.1V 2200mAh motor & 40A speed control

Vectored thrust delta fl ying wing

35-36-2200Kv

Tactic TTX650 transmitter (tacticrc.com), receiver, three mini servos, one high-torque mini servo

35-36-2200Kv brushless motor & 40A speed control (installed), ElectriFly 11.1V 2200mAh motor & 40A speed control (installed), ElectriFly 11.1V 2200mAh motor & 40A speed control

Vectored thrust delta fl ying wing

Reviewer Greg Gimlick says, “ is is an absolutely cool plane. e guys at the fi eld beg me to fl at-spin it!”

Highlights�+ Nice-quality AeroCell construction

�+ Great fl ight characteristics

�+ Two power setups by changing pack and prop

�+ Flight-ready in an hour



� e installed 35-36-2200Kv brushless motor provides plenty of power using

either the 3S and 6x5 prop setup or the 4S and 5x5 setup. Hand launches are easy and you can do them yourself, but I recommend having a helper do it for the fi rst few fl ights while you learn the characteristics of the plane. I used all the recommended control throws and expo recommendations, which suited my style just fi ne. For my fi rst hand launches on my own, I dialed in a tiny bit of up-elevator to ensure an initial climb before I got my hand back on the sticks. It probably isn’t necessary, but it might help if you’re concerned about the fi rst launch. I test-fl ew it with low rates, full power, and no thrust vectoring on the launch. Within a few seconds, I set it for high rates and full vectoring, but unless I’m going to do extreme aerobatics, I leave it on the low-rate settings.

GENERAL FLIGHT PERFORMANCEStability: Using the recommended throws and CG setting, the delta is nice and stable. � ere is a lot of room to adjust the battery position and you can move the CG back to the point where it becomes very lively and a lot less stable. Dial it in to your fl ying style.

Tracking: It tracked beautifully right from the start. � e rudder is eff ective during the launch and if you have thrust vectoring active, it is very eff ective, so be careful. Landing approaches can be slow if you desire by using a high-alpha profi le and power, but normal landings are easy too. � e fuselage is reinforced on the bottom for easy belly landings without damage.

Aerobatics: WOW! � is is what this delta was designed for and it doesn’t disappoint. A delta usually isn’t known for knife-edge, but this one will do it and do so with gusto using full thrust vectoring and rudder mix. Loops, rolls, and inverted fl ight are all staples and the power is there whether you use 3S or 4S.

Glide and stall performance: With the recommended CG, stalls are gentle enough and easy to recover from. Move the CG aft and the stall becomes more abrupt, but still controllable. � e wing loading is light and glide performance is nice and stable. It will really slow down if you want it to.

PILOT DEBRIEFING� is thing is a ball! It hand-launches easily and has the power to pretend it’s a little hotliner, or you can slow it down and fl y it around like a docile delta. With the three-position switch controlling the thrust vector and rudder choices, it can quickly change from a mild fl yer to a wild fl yer. � e fl at spins will get everyone’s attention and put a smile on your face too. We have a winner!

In the Air

UNIQUE FEATURES� e list of great features would have to start with the fact this delta wing will do a knife-edge! Since deltas are inherently lacking in yaw authority, you may wonder how that’s even possible, but this gem has thrust vectoring mixed to the rudder. � e setup allows you to have only rudder with no vectoring, full vectoring with rudder, or full vectoring and no rudder. You won’t believe what’s possible when you use full vectoring and rudder!

� e next feature is the ability to fl y it on 3S or 4S by swapping the prop (props for both setups are included). � ere is plenty of room in the fuselage for various battery sizes, so changing between the two setups only takes a minute to change the prop. On 4S, this is no beginner’s plane, but you advanced pilots will have a ball.

Assembly only takes about an hour and most of that will be spent linking your radio and doing the programming. Put your battery on the charger when you start building so it will be ready when you’re done. It’s that fast! � e primary assembly consists of screwing the vertical

� ese are all the parts ready for assembly in less than an hour.

Here’s a close up of the drive mechanism for the lateral thrust vectoring.

IT HAS THE POWER TO PRETEND IT’S A LITTLE HOTLINER OR YOU CAN SLOW IT DOWN AND FLY IT AROUND LIKE A DOCILE DELTA


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Flyzone Hadron

stab onto the turtle deck, which is then screwed onto the fuselage. All the blind nuts are pre-installed and all hardware is provided.

Battery packs are restrained with a hook-and-loop fastener glued to the bottom of the fuselage and one-wrap hook-and-loop straps around the pack. � e straps will go around the carbon-fi ber rod in the bottom of the fuselage, and two straps are recommended if you’re going to really explore the extreme capabilities of the plane.

Programming the radio is a simple task because of the extensive instruction manual. Mine was even easier because I used the Tactic TTX650 and page 11 of the instructions laid out the exact settings to get everything working together. If you’re using a diff erent transmitter and an AnyLink

Let’s talk fl at spins: you’ve never fl own something that will fl at spin like this! � ere are several ways to enter a fl at spin, but with the Hadron, there is an “instant” method I love. It’s easiest and fastest if you use high rates, but it will do it on low rates too. Try these steps:

1. Select high rates on elevator and aileron.2. Activate the switch for full thrust vectoring and rudder.3. Execute a vertical climb.4. Simultaneously push the rudder/throttle to the top left and aileron/eleva-tor to the top right (opposite top corners).5. It will instantly go into a fl at spin.6. Relax the aileron/elevator to neutral.7. Continue to hold full left rudder.8. � rottle can be adjusted to accelerate or slow the spin.9. Recover by applying rudder opposite of the spin. 10. Be prepared for it to recover inverted ... sometimes!

With practice you can reduce throttle, adjust rudder to stop the spin and then apply opposite rudder and throttle to change the direction of the spin while adjusting with opposite aileron and elevator. It will spin upright or inverted and I’ll admit there are times I’m not sure which is going to happen, but it’s so much fun, it has to be experienced.

MASTER THE FLAT SPIN

device, the instructions are thorough enough to make that task a cinch.

CONCLUSION� is little delta is just too cool! Open the box, put the battery on the charger, spend an hour assembling the plane, and you’re ready to fl y. Not just fl y, but force the sky into submission with the radical maneuvers possible with thrust vectoring and great power! My only suggestion is that you get several batteries for it because you’re not going to want to wait for a charge after the fi rst fl ight. �

� e turtle deck un-screws and the vertical fi n is bolted on with two screws.

� e turtle deck is in place with six screws and the control rod connected to the rudder.

� e front of the fuselage houses the battery and has plenty of room for adjustment.



By John Reid

How to Remove Old Covering

Custom Corner

I have fi nally decided to take the leap and recover a brand- new ARF in a diff erent color scheme. I have good friends who get planes and recover them and say that compared to building from scratch,

recovering ARFs saves them work and time. So, armed with some tips and words of wisdom, I decided to try this out and take you along for the ride. In our next issue I will show you how to lay out and recover the ARF with a brand-new color scheme. In the fi nal installment I will show you how to make and add some markings and panel lines. Everything I am going to do on this plane will involve UltraCote covering including the scale details and markings. For this re-cover I will be using the blue-nose version of Hangar 9’s P-51D Mustang 60 ARF. � is .60-size Mustang is the perfect-size electric plane and the kit also has a large top hatch, which should make changing battery packs rather easy. � is plane comes with the panel lines already scribed in the covering, so I wanted to take advantage of that. I was very nervous about taking a terrifi c-looking plane with a great covering job and removing all of it, but it was the only way I can get the color scheme I wanted. � is should be fun, so let’s get started!

1Here are some of the tools I used for removing the covering. First is a pair of fl at-nosed pliers to grip the covering when removing it. I also needed two diff erent tweezers to perform the same function as the pliers when grabbing

smaller bits of covering. I had a hobby knife to lift up the edges of the covering to get the process started. A heat gun that was capable of reaching some very high temperatures was very helpful in shrinking and pulling back the covering, making it easy to use the other tools to remove it.

2Because this plane already had all the panel lines inscribed on it, I thought I might want to add them back in on my fi nished plane. Before starting the removal process, I took photos of all the parts as a reference for later on

when I may want to draw them back onto my color scheme.

PICK A COLOR e fi rst step in any project was to decide on a new color scheme. I wanted a plane that no one else would have — something diff erent. For that reason I decided to go with a captured plane color scheme. During the war, all sides would capture enemy aircraft and paint them in their colors. is is how the U.S. learned what the Zero was capable of doing in a dogfi ght. e captured Zero helped our pilots learn how to beat it in the air. I settled on a Mustang that was captured by the Nazis and painted with their insignias. e odds were that no one else was going to have this same plane at my fl ying fi eld and it would be unique. I ordered the UltraCote in the correct colors and got started on removing the covering from my plane.

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MARCH 2014 61

3The easiest way to remove the covering is by using a heat gun to get the covering hot and loosen up the heat-activated glue on the back. To accomplish this, I set the heat gun to its hottest setting; on most guns,

closing the vents on the back to the smallest opening will make the air hotter.

4Using the heat gun set on high, I pointed it at a seam and overheated the material until it started shrinking and melting so that the corner came up. When I am shrinking down covering on a new plane, I try not to leave the

heat gun on any area too long just to prevent this from happening — now I am doing this on purpose! Once I had a large enough piece to grab with the tweezers, I removed the heat.

5 Using the tweezers, I pulled up the covering as I continued to heat up the covering. Be careful of the heat coming off that gun! I made sure to heat up the sides at the seam line so I could pull up the covering in a single piece.

When you have the correct amount of heat, the covering will be very easy to pull up. If you are having trouble pulling up the covering, get the gun closer to the covering and edges.

6When I had a large enough piece to hold onto, I grabbed it with my hand and pulled. Notice that I had the front of the heat gun pointing away from my hand — always be aware of the direction of that hot air, as it will not take

very long for that super-heated air to burn your skin. On seams that extend around the sides for more than 1/8 inch, I like to heat and pull them up before working on the flat surface, as I did on this rudder.

7It is very easy to know when you have enough heat on the covering; it will pull up with very little effort. If you are having any areas where it is not coming up easily, just hold the heat gun on that spot for a little longer. You

should be able to pull off the whole piece each time like I did on this rudder.

8Once the covering is removed, I am very careful about how I handle the parts. Laying them down on a soft surface such as soft foam will keep them safe. I used the antiskid shelving material that you can buy at any local store

to prevent any damage to the pieces. It is thin, soft, and the parts don’t shift around on it. If any parts do sustain some damage, they’ll have to be repaired before adding the new covering.



FINAL THOUGHTS Another quick tip to keep in mind with regard to the heat gun is that it can get to well over 400°, so always be aware of where it is pointing when it is on. Be careful around any plastic parts that are on the plane, such as the wheel wells in this P-51, because the plastic parts can melt rather quickly. A melted plastic part means more work for me before applying my new covering. � is model also had some strong magnets holding down the canopy hatch. High heat can easily damage the magnets holding power, so keep the heat gun away from any magnets that are already installed in your plane.

I found this whole process much easier and quicker to do than I thought it would be, and now I am looking forward to adding the new covering. Be sure to check out the next installment of Custom Corner where I will be creating a German-captured P-51 color scheme with UltraCote to this great Hangar 9 P-51D Mustang. �

9When you have duplicates of the same piece such as the horizontal stabilizer and elevators, it is best to mark one pair of them like I did here. When I cover the stabilizer and elevators, I will do them as paired pieces.

� is will ensure that the hinge points will remain lined up and matching. Because these parts will be done in yellow UltraCote covering, I made the marks very light and in a spot where they will not be noticed. I know from past experience that darker markings will show through the yellow covering, so be careful when marking your parts. It’s always a good idea to locate the part ID number/letters in a hidden or non-conspicuous area.

10 Here are all my parts with the covering removed, ready for the new color scheme. � is was also a good time to check all the glue joints; if any should need some reinforcement or additional glue, I will usually

apply it at this time. I read about some glue joint issues on this plane online, but I’m happy to say that must have all been taken care by the manufacturer because everything checked out fi ne on my bird. With just a light sanding and wiping down with the tack cloth, my new plane will be ready for the new covering!

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STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIPStatement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation (Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685). 1. Title of Publication: Electric Flight. 2. Publication no.: 021-655. 3. Date of Filing: October 1, 2013. 4. Frequency of Issue: Bimonthly. 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 6. Annual Subscription Price: $29. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 88 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897-7452. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: Same. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Address of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Louis V. DeFrancesco, 88 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897-7452. Editor: Debra Cleghorn, 88 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897-7452. Managing Editor: None. 10. Owners: Louis V. DeFrancesco and Yvonne M. DeFrancesco, 88 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897-7452. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: None. 12. Does not apply. 13. Publication Name: Electric Flight. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: November 2013. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average Number of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: A. Total Number of Copies (Net Press Run): 79,400. B. Paid and/or Requested Circulation. (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions Stated on Form 3541: 25,935 (2) 0 (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors and Counter Sales: 14,803 (4) 0. C. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 40,738. D. Free Distribution by Mail, Samples, Complimentary and Other Free: (1) 1,078 (2) 0 (3) 0. (4) Free Distribution Outside the Mail: 2,523. E. Total Free Distribution: 3,601. F. Total Distribution: 44,339. G. Copies Not Distributed: 35,061. H. Total: 79,400. I. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 92%. Actual Number of Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date. A. Total Number of Copies (Net Press Run): 72,375. B. Paid and/or Requested Circulation. (1) Paid/Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions Stated on Form 3541: 24,137 (2) 0 (3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors and Counter Sales: 14,115 (4) 0. C. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 38,252. D. Free Distribution by Mail, Samples, Complimentary and Other Free: (1) 1,962 (2) 0 (3) 0. (4) Free Distribution Outside the Mail: 2,210. E. Total Free Distribution: 4,172. F. Total Distribution: 42,424. G. Copies Not Distributed: 29,951. H. Total: 72,375. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 90% This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the March 2014 issue of this publication. I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and complete. Yvonne DeFrancesco, Publisher.


Aerobatics Made Easy

A t the 1994 Tournament of Champions in Las Vegas, NV, I saw an extreme slip to landing performed by David Von Linsowe’s giant-scale Extra 300S during his freestyle program — it was choreographed to music with the engine off! Ever since that

flight, this maneuver has caught my eye. You don’t often see an aircraft slip in the yaw axis while the flight path is parallel with the runway during landing!

However, executing the extreme side slip to landing requires a pilot to be comfortable with using rudder as well as cross-controlling rudder and aileron input. It is important to understand the balance of these two inputs, as all airplanes respond to control inputs in a different manner. If too much rudder and/or aileron are used to perform the extreme slip, the pilot may become overwhelmed when his aircraft performs a variation of the negative snap roll. After all, the commands are similar!

Let’s take a look at my personal rate and exponential setup on my Extreme Flight 48-inch Laser EXP and cover all of the steps necessary to perform this stunt with finesse. This airplane is the perfect example aircraft as it was designed to excel at both precise and extreme maneuvers. It exhibits docile slow-speed flight characteristics and has strong rudder authority, especially when equipped with the included side-force generators, which increase the side area of the model and increase the airplane’s rudder authority.

Before we BeginWhen you are going to fly the extreme slip to landing, a lot of control throw on the elevator and aileron control surfaces are not needed. Rather, the low-rate settings supplied by the plane’s manufacturer should suffice. On the other hand, a fair amount of rudder deflection should be used as the amount of rudder deflection will determine the slip angle that you can achieve in flight.

On my Laser EXP, I have about 15 degrees of elevator and aileron deflection and about 30 degrees of rudder deflection. To make the airplane more precise, especially when giving small corrections, exponential is a must! Exponential softens how the airplane responds to a certain control input. For example, during the side slip, the pilot will command large amounts of rudder deflection. When making small corrections with rudder and feeding more rudder input in to increase the slip angle, it is beneficial if the aircraft isn’t sensitive in yaw inputs, making its flight appear erratic. With the rates mentioned earlier, I use about 25% exponential on the aileron and elevator surfaces and about 40% exponential on the rudder.

extreme Slip to landing overviewLike all landings, this one is no different. You should perform a downwind leg, turn on to base, and turn on to final so the aircraft is traveling into the wind. At that point, line up with the runway. To initiate the slip, a slight amount of aileron will bank the aircraft about 15 degrees in roll, and opposite rudder input should will cause the aircraft to slip in the yaw axis.

As soon as the slip has begun, you will need to balance aileron and rudder to keep a constant slip in motion. In addition, use elevator and

Fly an Extreme Slip to Landing End your flight with style

By John Glezellis Illustrations by FX Models

As soon As the slip hAs begun, you will need to bAlAnce

Aileron And rudder to keep A constAnt slip in motion.

exit: At the end of flight, use rudder to keep rollout straight.

throttle to keep a constant descent and to bring the aircraft to a three-point landing. Before the aircraft touches the ground, though, release rudder and aileron inputs to stop the slip and to straighten out. Stopping the slip before the flare is key so both main wheels touch down at the same time. Done properly, the airplane will track straight down the runway and the side load on the landing gear will be reduced.

Now, let’s simplify matters and divide this exciting landing into four steps.

StEp 1. Begin by lining the aircraft up with the runway, traveling into the wind. In this example, the landing will be from right to left, and the aircraft will be rolled to the left so that the top of the model is visible during the approach. Apply a small amount of left aileron to bank the wings of the aircraft and follow that input with right rudder to establish a slip angle. StEp 2. Once some rudder has been applied, you’ll need to increase the amount of up-elevator to keep a constant descent angle. Also, use throttle to keep up the speed of the aircraft. Using too much rudder will greatly decrease the speed of the aircraft, but the speed of the airplane also depends on the descent angle. StEp 3. Keep the nose of the aircraft down slightly and remember to balance rudder and aileron input accordingly. Using too much aileron and

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ENTRY: Enter in straight and level fl ight into the wind.

rudder input at the same time can result in a negative snap roll variant! Keep the bank angle limited, but add rudder input as needed to keep a graceful slip.STEP 4. As the airplane approaches the runway, decrease the slip angle by releasing rudder input and correct the bank angle of the wings with the ailerons. Add power as needed to keep the speed of the aircraft up and perform a fl are. � e best manner to approach this portion of the maneuver is to wait until the last moment before touchdown.

1 Roll left and apply right rudder to establish slip.

2 Increase elevator back pressure to maintain

consistent descent rate.

3 Maintain slip angle with balanced aileron

and rudder input.4 Near touchdown, decrease slip angle

and add power as needed to fl are.

� ese are the basic control inputs that are needed in performing this exhilarating maneuver. However, this type of landing is not only a crowd-pleaser; it’s also benefi cial during an emergency situation like a motor failure. Occasionally, a motor will fail forcing the pilot to land downwind as the airplane may not be high enough to actually make a lap and turn into the wind. At that point, the pilot should line the aircraft up with the runway and perform a side slip to drop altitude and airspeed if the airplane is traveling faster than desired. As the aircraft approaches the runway, the pilot can level the aircraft out, release rudder and aileron and perform a fl are for the perfect emergency approach.

FINAL THOUGHTSYou have now learned the fundamentals behind the extreme slip to landing. � is move is a true head-turner, but can also prove advantageous in an emergency situation like the motor failure mentioned earlier. Remember, though, that practice pays off as this can be quite a challenging maneuver to execute properly. Control input amounts will diff er from one airframe to another, and you should familiarize yourself with how your aircraft reacts to rudder and aileron inputs and observe how your aircraft responds at a safe altitude. � e most important step is to properly balance rudder and aileron inputs to establish the most extreme side-slip landing. Above all else, always remember to have fun. �

Rudder input is very important for establishing a slip.

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3D Printing for Scale Detail

TailviewBy John Reid

How did you learn about using 3D printing for scale aircraft parts?3D printing is something that we’ve used at my work for some time, so it’s something I’ve been aware of for a number of years. But, it wasn’t until I saw a friend of mine make a wheel hub for one of his projects that I came to realize that there were places out there now that have made this an affordable process. So, as an experiment, I created my own wheel hub for my mirage to see what the cost would be and how long the process would take. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that it was inexpensive with a quick turnaround. What makes it accessible are websites like shapeways.com that allow affordable printing in all sorts of different mediums.

What are the limitations on the scale parts that can be made by 3D printing?The primary limitation is how well

all modelers. The most difficult part is creating the solid CAD model that is required to print from. There are a number of free CAD modeling software packages out there, plus I know that Shapeways has its own free program that is available as well. Obviously, it does take some time to learn the software, but with time it gets easier. Also, folks like Randy Huff from Distinctive Scale

The latest in printing technology is a new breed of 3D printing, and it is something that keeps popping up in the news just about every week. This technology allows you to print parts one layer at a time; however, these pieces are three dimensional and can be used afterwards. Now the RC modeler can make realistic scale parts for his or her aircraft using 3D printers and there are a number of companies now offering this service to RC modelers. We got a chance to sit down and talk with Chris Wolfe of Jet Hangar Hobbies, Inc., who had an outstanding scale Mirage jet. He added some extra scale detail by having some scale 3D parts made for it.

Models, LLC are willing to help. He helped me with the CAD modeling of the turkey feather exhaust for my Mirage. He’s worked with some of the top scale competitors out there to develop detail parts, as well as dummy engines and prototype landing gear, for their aircraft.

Is 3D printing expensive?It depends on the material, but overall, I would say that it’s very affordable. If you start dealing with materials other than the ABS plastics (yes, you can print metals!), the price can increase dramatically. That being said, it’s still pretty remarkable it’s as affordable as it is. For the parts I had printed for my Mirage, which were the highest-quality ABS plastic print, the cost was $3.49 per cubic centimeter.

Do you think you will be using 3D printing again on future models?Absolutely! I can see any number of possibilities for scale detailing using 3D printing. Though this technology isn’t necessarily new, only within the last few years has it become truly affordable, and it will only get better. This opens any number of possibilities and uses for our models, which is really exciting. It will be fun and interesting to see how things progress in the future.

you can create the 3D model of what you want to print. Otherwise, the printers can make very intricate parts and pieces. It’s incredible, really! As long as the proper thicknesses are there for the strength of the part, anything is possible.

Is something like this available to all modelers? Yes, this is absolutely available to

Left: The afterburners (AB) turkey feathers fresh from the printer, which shows the translucent ABS plastic. Right: The painted part really highlights all of the fine details. It was painted with Alclad paints with various colored washes used to get a realistic look. The AB LEDs add to the realism in flight.

Chris' EDF Mirage doing what it does best. The 3D printed details really add to the overall realism of the aircraft. Upper right: Chris placed fourth overall in Expert at the latest Scale Master's Championships with this plane; here he is adjusting the fit of the afterburners' turkey feathers.

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Electric Flight - February 2014

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Transcript of Electric Flight - February 2014