Electric Copper Etching

8/13/2019 Electric Copper Etching

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I was looking a while for a good set of instructions for electric copper etching and

found a quite good instruction at Jake von Slatts Steampunkworkshop and decided

to refine it a bit and create an own instruction set in german. Now translating it

back, i will also provide it here, making it my first instructable...

Here is an overview on what will be neccessary during all the steps:

- a power source ( DC, continuous current ) and electrodes

- an electrolyt ( a conductive liquid ): copper sulphate

- copper as basis material and for the anode

- some plastic or glas containers.

- inkjet paper

- sanding paper

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTK/BZPR/GXL61QQY/FTKBZPRGXL61QQY.LARGE.jpg)

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Posted:Feb 2, 2012

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Step 1: The Method

The whole process i will describe is based on anelectrolytic bathusing acopper

sulphate dilution.

Electrolysisitself is a quite easy thing: it is a process, which enforces a chemical

reaction due to electricity. What kind of reaction is happening depends on the

ingredients being used.

A detailed description of electrolysis can be found here

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis)

What do i need for the setup?

- a power source ( DC, continuous current ) and electrodes

- an electrolyt ( a conductive liquid )

- copper as basis material and for th anode )

- some plastic or glas containers.

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The Power Source

It is a good idea to have a switchable power supply. I use one from Graupner

(http://www.graupner.de/de/products/294a2a60-66ab-4547-b822-

8ff610f392e4/6458/product.aspx).

It can adjust both current and voltage, so i can vary a bit depending on what

materials i use.

I would aim at having at least 12V and 15-20A output.

The electrolyt

A traditional substance for eletric etching of copper and zinc seems to be copper

sulfate (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_sulfate).

It easily dissolves in water to a nice blue liquid. I used a concentration of 4 parts

water to 1 part copper sulfate ( assuming 1 kilo being one litre ;) ). Copper sulfate

is defined as an irritant, but can be bought online. The potential danger is that it

destroys organisms over a longer period of contact. Don't put it on your skin and

do not drain it in the sink.

If you need to get rid of it, contact your local waste disposal dealer.

Copper

Since you want to etch copper, you need to copper object you want to etch. This

will be attached to the anode of the power source to let the current run through it.

On the cathode you need another piece of copper, on which the Cu2+ molecules

can settle. I actually used brass, also works fine, as will all other materials, that are

able to join with copper.

Written in chemical terms, this happens:

On the Anode: Cu => Cu2+ + 2e-

On the Cathode: Cu2+ + 2e- => Cu

The anode dissolves slowly, producing cations, which will transform copper at the

cathode through reduction of copperions.

Step 2: Image Transfer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_sulfatehttp://www.graupner.de/de/products/294a2a60-66ab-4547-b822-8ff610f392e4/6458/product.aspx


4/12

There are two useful methods of transfering the desired image to the copper plate:Photo exposure (http://fritzing.org/learning/tutorials/pcb-production-tutorials/diy-

pcb-etching/) or direct toner transfer, which saw as the easier ( but maybe more

inaccurate ) method i will describe now.

Before continuing, we have to clean the surface of our copper thoroughly, using

rubbing alcohol or other good cleaner. No spot of whatever may be left before the

transfer.

Now we need a negative of the image we want to etch. You need to print that on a

as glossy as possible sheet of paper. You have to experiment a bit. I chose photo

paper for inkjet printers, but i read, that also pages from product catalogs are good.

You need a paper, which has a very flat surface so the toner cannot stick to it too

good.

Use your iron at a high temperature to first heat up the copper. Then put the sheet

with the print towards the copper on the plate and apply it with high pressure of the

iron. Take care not to move the sheet or the picture will be messed up. How long

you have to press them together depends on the materials used. Again. a bit

experimenting is neccessary.

When the sheet is stuck on the plate, put i in hot water for some minutes, until the

paper just comes off. After a bit of soft rubbing, the paper should come of

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1S/751M/GY18KBEK/F1S751MGY18KBEK.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJO/GC71/GY18WG1X/FJOGC71GY18WG1X.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHV/8M0W/GY3E1W4Z/FHV8M0WGY3E1W4Z.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FHV/8M0W/GY3E1W4Z/FHV8M0WGY3E1W4Z.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FJO/GC71/GY18WG1X/FJOGC71GY18WG1X.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/F1S/751M/GY18KBEK/F1S751MGY18KBEK.LARGE.jpghttp://fritzing.org/learning/tutorials/pcb-production-tutorials/diy-pcb-etching/


5/12

completely and only the toner remains.

That was the tricky part...

Step 3: Etching

In this step, you will do the etching ( and waiting... )

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKP/NMWK/GY18WG23/FKPNMWKGY18WG23.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRS/8LSD/GY19835E/FRS8LSDGY19835E.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FRS/8LSD/GY19835E/FRS8LSDGY19835E.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FKP/NMWK/GY18WG23/FKPNMWKGY18WG23.LARGE.jpg


6/12

You will do the setup described in step 1. The copper plate, that you want to etch

has to be attached to the anode using some conductive connector. I used alligator

clips, but you can as well just build a small conductive frame, which holds the

material. Again some experimenting is needed... Same for the cathode.

The coppler plate has to be covered in the dilution as complete as possible. parts,

that are not covered, will not be etched.

When everything is setup properly, power on the power source. I used 15V and

20A as an initial value. If you measure the resistance or the current flow, it will

change with time and more power will flow.

Take care, the dilution does not get to hot. Some steam is fine, as long as it is

colorless and does not smell. Boiling water will destroy the plate very likely.

From time to time slew the anode plate a bit, that the coat, which will appear after a

while, disappears. Try not to remove the toner.

The duration of the process depends on how deep you want to etch and how much

current your power source is able to deliver.

The piece i took for demonstration took me almost an hour.

Step 4: Finishing

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F4U/OSQQ/GY18RCQL/F4UOSQQGY18RCQL.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/F4U/OSQQ/GY18RCQL/F4UOSQQGY18RCQL.LARGE.jpg


7/12

Let the dilution drip of well after the etching. Let as much as possible drip back to

the container, since you do not want to put it in the sink. Then clean it with clear

water. A low concentration of coppersulfate won't harm the environment, but keep it

as low as possible.

Use some very fine sanding paper or grinding swart to clean the plate from toner

remainders and to get a nice and clean surface.

As you can see on the gun handle, i did not do the transfer properly. There was not

enough toner on that line, or it was not well transfered, since it seemed to have

fallen off during the etching.

Well.. that' it.. etching done...

Step 5: Addendum

(http://cdn.ins tructables.com /FMF/JGDI/GY485VTM/FMFJGDIGY485VTM.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FMF/JGDI/GY485VTM/FMFJGDIGY485VTM.LARGE.jpg


8/12

What happend to the dissolved copper? Does it disappear?

No.. it does not... it is attached to the cathode...

Here is a link to the German version

(http://cdn.ins tructables .com/FJV/MT5R/GY485VUX/FJVMT5RGY485VUX.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables .com/FFJ/MBPQ/GY18RCYE/FFJMBPQGY18RCYE.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FFJ/MBPQ/GY18RCYE/FFJMBPQGY18RCYE.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FJV/MT5R/GY485VUX/FJVMT5RGY485VUX.LARGE.jpg


9/12

We have a be nicecomm ent policy.

Please be pos itive and cons tructive. I Made it! Add Images Post

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shobo (/member/shobo/)

have you tried this method in pcb etching?

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) shobo

not me personally, but our

hackerspace did.

works quite well.

fusion (/member/fusion/)

any ideas for harvesting/using the remaining copper? and i can't tell by the pictures,

how deep was the etch?

thekendall (/member/thekendall/)

This may be stupid but how could I etch more than one piece at a time? Just a bigger

tank and adjust voltage and current?

Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/)

Thanks for posting this. Does the cathode have to be copper or can it be any

conductive metal? I need to etch an 18" long control panel and finding a long narrow

plastic container isn't easy. I can get a long stainless steel restaurant pan which could

work as the container and the cathode but I'd like to be sure that stainless is a

suitable cathode material.

Does the distance between the cathode and the anode have any effect on the results

or the speed or depth of the etch?

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) Ramundicus

other conductives will also work, since

you can use this method also for copper

plating ( look at the comment below ).

so you want to use the pan as container

and cathode? i would not do this, since

you put a not small amount of electricity

on it! you have to use a non conductive

material as container.

in general i don't know, ich stainless stell

works as a cathode...

the distance does have an effect, it will

speed it up, but might also result in

increasing heat...

Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/) JohnCopper
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10/12


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2 years ago Reply (CE96TDFGYDLQHDE)

Almost forgot. You mention that the

distance between the anode and

cathode can effect the speed of the

etch. You're using a narrow cathode

strip compared to the width of the

anode plate. The distance between the

two nodes is further at the ends of the

anode than at the center. The

difference is small but if you positioned

the two pieces 1" apart, there may be

several times that distance between the

cathode and the ends of the anodeplate. Have you experimented with that

and does that matter?

Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/) JohnCopper

You may have a point about the amount

of current on the metal pan. I got the

idea from an etching system I found

online. They use a smaller steel pan

and a small power supply for etching

small pieces. I don't know how much

voltage or current it uses but it appears

to work, I just don't know how well. It's

the only method I've seen that uses a

steel cathode/container. (Disclaimer: I

have no interest in that company or

product, it's very expensive and I'm not

recommending it.)

I do like the idea of etching horizontally,

though, with the cathode lying on the

bottom of the container. I think I can

control the distance between the

cathode and anode better than if

they're vertical.

I plan to use an Xbox power supply that

delivers 16.5A at 12V. I'm back to

searching for a 20" long plastic

container. ;)

ResaJo (/member/ResaJo/)

You know, you can use this process in reverse to actually do copper plating? just

reverse the charges from anode to cathode, having coated whatever you want to

plate with a electrolytic paint, (even organic things such as leaves, so long as you

have coated it completely with a thin coating of wax & then painted it with the paint)

and run your bath at a low amps over a period of time and you can "grow" copper

onto just about anything.

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) ResaJo

yep... i know... that's described in this

wonderful instructable:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrof

an-Iris-Seed-Pod/

ericCycles (/member/ericCycles/)

When I was a high school student, we used ferric chloride as a pcb etchant. Of

course, the solution would become saturated with copper and stop working.

This approach sounds more interesting as it should never become exhausted, copper
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should be entering and leaving the solution at the same rate. Hmm, however, there

would be a problem getting electricity to all the paths, so I guess this isn't something

you could use for PCB's.

Thought: could you use an epsom salt (magnesium sulphate) solution instead of a

copper sulphate solution? Epsom salts are cheap and easy to come by.

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) ericCycles

yes, technically is should not become

saturated, but after a while, since yourmaterial will never be 100% clean, you

will have some other dirt in the dilution.

it can of course be easily filtered and

used again.

i have seen pcbs etched with that

method for smd chips, so quite

detailed and fine. i do not see, why it

should not work, because the paths will

form during the process of etching...

i don't know, if it works with epsom salt.

i never tried it, so i can't recommend it.i have seen prices vary from 30% (

fishbowl use ) to 200% (

pharmaceutical use ) of the price of

coppersulfate. always depends on the

quality...

i got my coppersulfate for 8/kg from

ebay... so also cheap and easy...

crysisatutz (/member/crysisatutz/)

Please change the words "Anode" and "Kathode" against each other. A Kathode

(cathode) is defined as a thing which gives the system electrons. And a Anode

(anode) is defined as a thing which take electrons from the system.

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) crysisatutz

hm.. actually you are right... i guess i

mixed that up at the beginning.. thanks

for the hint.. will be changed...

friger (/member/friger/)

I like this. Have you tried coating the copper plate in wax and scratching you design

into the wax? I did that once to etch aluminum and used copper as the anode.

JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) friger

thanks :)

no i did not try did... for a reason... my

skills in scratching wax ;)

designing the image on the computer

and just printing it, seemed more

usable for me...

hjjusa (/member/hjjusa/)

Will this etch brass also?
http://www.instructables.com/member/hjjusa/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/member/friger/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/member/crysisatutz/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/C4XXM5FGY4RACXIhttp://www.instructables.com/member/hjjusa/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/CWENBI5GY4R8NSXhttp://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/CC1CY4FGY4RFQA0http://www.instructables.com/member/friger/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/COBX94YGYDLQHDIhttp://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/CO9MTAXGYDJPRF0http://www.instructables.com/member/crysisatutz/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/C2E59Y7GYE871FRhttp://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/


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2 years ago Reply (CSLVQLBGY4RADU3)

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JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) hjjusa

yes it should, since brass is an alloy of

copper and zinc. the instruction i

based this on, was using brass to

etch...

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Electric Copper Etching

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