Effective heat installation guide

2009 INSTALLATION GUIDE

EFFECTIVEH E ATGLASS WORKSMOLLYF UR NA C E[ ]

e f fec t i vehea tg lassworks .com 503 -838-7385

Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

Table Of Contents

Multimeter

Setting the Crucible

Element Preparation and Installation

Element Wiring

Door Assembly

Maintenance

Receiving And Unpalleting the Furnace 1

3

2

5

4

7

6

Unpacking

Wiring

Assembly

Upkeep

11

12

Control Unit Wiring 9

Cooling System

Thermocouple Wiring 8

10Start Up Procedures & Programming

Trouble Shooting


1 Receiving and Unpalleting the FurnaceWhen moving the furnace a 6000# rated forklift is required. A Bobcat or tractor with forks will not suffice, the furnace is too heavy for those machines.

1. Place the furnace where there is ample room to remove the pallet from underneath the furnace.

2. Undo the shipping straps and place them into the box provided for return shipping.

4. Slide the forks in all the way, tilt back the forklift a little, lift up, remove the pallet, flip the wheels down and set the furnace down and roll it into place.

3. Align the forks of the forklift in between the wood stickers. Be sure to clear the riser bolts as well. The riser bolts are underneath the furnace.

5. Get a drill and a #2 Phillips head, take the crate apart. Remove the top first and then remove the sides Lift the control stand with the forks underneath the crossbars in the middle above the transformer.


1Equipment and Materials Checklist:

1

Furnace

Control Unit

Door and door frame

Elements

Multimeter

10 mm wrenches

Dip lag (fiberglass cloth for top of furnace)

Hardware for Straps (5/16” bolts, nuts, washers, lock washers)

Straps and Clamps (for elements)

Element Coolers

Element Bricks

Thermocouple (attached to control unit)

Blower unit (attached to control unit)

No-alox

Door switch (attached to control unit)

:Receiving and Unpalleting the Furnace


2 Setting the Crucible

To set the crucible you must first remove the packing material inside the furnace to place the crucible. Lower the riser bolts underneath the furnace for stability.

1. Remove the dog house cover that encases the clean out port. This requires a 3/8” hex driver bit.

3. There are two sections of the crucible wrapping, the section around the pot and the section underneath. Use the cradle straps to lift the pot upward to remove the bubble wrap from underneath.

Insert a 2x4 or a large metal pipe. Get a secure position and use the sill as your lever point. Lift the pot upward. This usually requires two people to do this.

2. Remove the frax plugs from the clean out port. The two inner plugs are 1” 2600F frax. The plugs will need to be placed back in the same order, so be sure to keep them together as you take them out.


2:Setting the Crucible

4. With the crucible elevated, use the clean out port to begin pulling out the bubble wrap from underneath. It can be a struggle sometimes to pull out the bubble wrap. This also may require two people

5. Lower the crucible on the floor of the furnace.

* If the crucible height is different than you like you can place a brick underneath the pot. Use a ceramic fire brick. (IFB are too soft for the weight of the crucible). Place the brick or bricks, securely underneath the pot to stabilize it.


2 :Setting the Crucible

7. Once the bubble wrap is out, check to see that there is equal spacing from the walls, around the crucible. Wiggle the pot to see if it is unstable. If so, just use a bit of playground sand to keep the crucible from rocking.

8. After the crucible is set, return the frax plugs to the clean out port in their original order and reattach the dog house cover.

6. Next, reach in through the gathering port and slice away the lifting straps using a razor knife.

The bubble wrap is wrapped around the sides of the crucible and secured with a piece of tape. Cut the tape to pull the bubble wrap out. The tape is just below the edge of the crucible on the outside.

Begin pulling the bubble wrap straight up first before pulling out. This will make it a bit easier.


3Door Assembly

1. Slide the door frames together making sure the allthread is placed through the center hole on each frame.

This allthread controls the up down adjustment, but is only applicable during installation. It becomes a static measurement once set.

The door track is a simple two track system. The top track is skewed outward from the furnace to allow the door to release instead of scrape along the face. The lower door track is adjustable for gathering port buildup.

The door itself is adjustable on four bolts that hold the door to the door frame. These four posts allow you to adjust the seal on your door.


32. Carefully pick the door up and set it on the track. Use a crescent wrench, or a 5/8” wrench to adjust the height of the door.

Now is the time to adjust the allthread so the door is aligned with the gathering port.

3. Once the door is on and adjusted take the door switch controller that’s wired to your control panel and attach it to the mounting plate, located on the top door track.

The controller will turn the furnace on when the door is shut and turn it off when it is open.

This is why it is important to make sure that the toggle switch has fully clicked over. When the door is fully shut, the toggle should catch the bolt from the door castor and you should hear a little click.

:Door Assembly


3:Door Assembly

5. Some of the furnace models leave the door tracks at dangerous heights. To solve this just cut a tennis ball or a racquet ball. Cut just one slit about 1/3 of the ball and slip the ball over the end of each track.

4. The allthread for the lower door track adjustment should be sitting in the lower door track upright, just below the door.

The lower door track can be adjusted outward, in order to swing door slightly away from the gathering port as it slides open. This Keeps the two faces from scraping as the door slides open and closed. It will also help with the buildup of stringers.


4 Multimeter

Taking Measurements:There are two different ways to take a measurement:

1. Induction Clamp:The induction clamp at the top of the meter. To use it, clamp around the wire where testing is needed and pull the trigger on the side.

*Only clamp insulated wires, do not clamp bare wires. Make sure that the clamp is secure to get an accurate reading.

2. Probes:Use the two probes to touch the testing sites where testing is desired.

Most new meters have plugs inserted in to the probe connectors. Remove these and plug the probes into the appropriately colored slots at the bottom.

*A bare wire or screw terminal is necessary to achieve a reading.

Measurements will be displayed on the digital screen. “OL” (off line) it a default reading that appears when no measurement is present.

The multimeter is the most important tool to keeping your furnace running efficiently. This is how you will measure different electrical properties.

*Take extreme caution when taking electrical measurements.


4:Multimeter

Types of Measurements:There are three main measurement settings that will be relevant for this product:

(Volts) (Amperage) (Continuity/Ohms/Resistance)

1. V 2. A 3. Ω/

*Notice that there are two different measurement settings for V and A (V and A ) These settings use a different type of current and are not applicable to our products. All measurements taken with this meter will be in AC mode (alternating current), indicated by the .

You can select the type of measurement you would like to take by turning the dial to the appropriate icon.

When measuring V or Ω use the Probes.

When Measuring A use the Induction Clamp

You can also measure Ω with an auditory signal by turning the dial to the sound icon.

The only two buttons you will use from time to time are the sensitivity button (when higher precision readings are needed) and the backlight button (for dark areas).


4

1. To begin, remove the element boxes from the crate. Test each element for continuity before opening the element boxes by placing the probes to the terminal ends. Use the sound symbol on your multi meter as shown in the earlier section.

2. Once the continuity is established, clear a large work area to assemble the heater components as shown below. Along with the elements, you will need:

• Tape measure • 10 mm wrenches that are supplied• A razor knife• The element bricks• The ceramic element clamps• A chopstick or BBQ skewer• And the ceramic fiber that is provided.

Element Prep and Installation

You are now ready to prep the elements for assembly and installation. Each element assembly will be placed in the crown.

Element

HeaterTerminal

Element Assembly

Brickclamp

Taper


5:Element Prep and Installation

3. The elements are very fragile, but if handled correctly they will last for years. To handle the elements pick them up by the wooden stability blocks.

Carefully remove the box, leaving the element and the foam on the table with the terminal ends off the edge. Place one side of the element on the table. Do not let the heater portion touch the table.

4. To place the element in the brick you must remove one of the wooden blocks. Take your razor knife and carefully slice the tape holding the block to the element. Now gently flip the element over and slice the other side. Be careful not to stress the element.

*Do not cut the tape on the other wooden block close to the heater portion. If you do cut the tape, replace it promptly. Do not handle the element without the wooden block in place.

*Only work on one element at a time, this reduces the chance of breakage


5 :Element Prep and Installation

5. Once the tape is cut, gently slide the wooden block out. To do this move the block toward the open end, do not pop the block out from its original position, this will break the element.

Now that the block is out, the best way to handle the element is to pick it up by the front block and cradle the element underneath with a flat hand. Do not squeeze or pry on the terminal ends, this will break the element.

6. The element brick has two different ends, small holes for insertion and large holes for insulating. Insert the element into the small holes. If the element does not move effortlessly, STOP, take the element out and ream the holes with a piece of all-thread. The one in the lower door track works well. Rub the inside of the holes to get proper alignment.

Try again. Do not force the element in, this will break the element. The wooden block stays in the element for stability, and gets burned out on warm up. It does not hurt anything to keep the block in the element.



8. Now that the element is in the brick, we have to insulate and seal the terminal shanks. Get your w skewer, the scrap frax, and a comfortable seat. Tear the frax into small pieces and stuff in around the terminal shank. Use the skewer to pack the frax all the way in. Get a nice tight seal.

If the shank is off center, pack it that way. Trying to force it center will put stress on the element and break it. Fill the holes all the way flush as shown above.

It takes a lot more frax than it looks to fill these small cavities around the terminal shanks.

7. Now, take the tape measure and measure 4.5” from the beginning of the taper of the element to the brick. A #75 furnace will be a 3” measurement a # 100, 200 and 300 will be 4.5”, a #400 and 600# will be a 5.5” measurement.



9. After you are finished stuffing the element brick, take one of the ceramic element clamps and place it on the terminals. You’ll have to unscrew the bolt all the way for this. The bolt is the only piece that moves in this assembly, the nut is fused to the clamp.

Place the clamp flush to the brick, this is what keeps the element from falling into the furnace. Before you tighten the clamp, re-measure the front of the brick to the taper of the element.

10. Once that is checked, tighten the bolt with the 10 mm wrenches. Do this slowly and carefully, tighten as much as you can. Don’t be afraid to over tighten. You might hear some cracking noises, but that is only the ceramic holders, not the elements.

*It is a good idea to lay out all of your element assemblies, as shown to the right, before you begin installation.



Next, prepare the furnace for the elements

The element holes have been cut out prior to shipping but are not exact, and shipping can jostle the position of the holes.

12. First, take an empty element brick to see if it fits in the hole properly. You want the brick to be slightly difficult to slide in and out.

Next, make sure that the hole in the fiber is centered and square to the hole in the crown. If the hole needs to be realigned, take the kitchen knife (no serrated knives) and slice away the fiber frax to achieve the correct alignment. You cannot simply push the fiber over a little. It has to be cut.

Now, remove any small scraps that are below on the crown so the element brick can make a good seal.



13. When all of the holes are prepared, get a ladder and position it in front of the first hole you will work on. It is extremely important to move the ladder every time you change holes. Also, be sure there is ample space above the furnace to fit the element in.

14. Pick the element brick assembly up and hold the heater end down. When moving any element assembly, always hold the heater end down to avoid breakage. The element can slip backward through the brick. Pick the element brick

15. Steady yourself and aim the element into the crown.

*Be careful not to scrape the heater against the crown as you insert it into the furnace.

Lean against the top ring as you lower the element in to keep your stability.

Inserting the elements

16. Once the element brick gets to the fiber, re-position your hands to sit on top of the fiber as shown. When your hands are in position slowly work the brick down through the top. *Listen and feel for any scraping that the element may do on the way down. If the element does scrape, angle the brick away from the side that is scraping and insert more frax. If the scraping persists, STOP, take the element out and cut a larger hole in the fiber frax. Then try again.



17. After the element is in, make sure that it is perpendicular to the top of the furnace. You can adjust the position more when you stuff around the brick to seal in the heat.

18. Stuff pieces of fiber in around the element brick. Fill in completely around the brick all the way to the crown. This is important for the health of the furnace. Holes in the insulation allow off-gassing to eat away at the crown and element bricks. When stuffing be careful to keep the element perpendicular to the top.

19. After stuffing around the bricks, cut sections of the diplag provided to seal in the fiber around the brick. Cut the diplag pieces provided into rectangles the same size as the top of the brick and then cut an “X” in for the element terminals to slide through. The diplag should cover all of the element clamp.

The diplag is fiberglass cloth that has been immersed is wheat gluten. Just wet it and smear it to get a seal it dries in a few hours.


6 Cooling System

The cooling system helps dissipate the heat before it can reach the electrical connections. The cooling system is required on all the furnace models except for the #75 model (this is because the #75 does not transmit as much heat as the other models). Keeping the electrical connections cool is essential to the efficiency of the unit.

The components of the cooling system are:

The blower

The blower manifold

Barb fittings

The element coolers

The clear vinyl tubing

a

e

b

da

eb

d

e

1. First, install the element coolers. They slide over the terminal shanks with the tube pointing away. The coolers are metal and not ceramic for durability.

Make sure to keep the coolers angled so they do not touch each other. Allowing the element coolers to touch may cause a short in the element.

cc


6:Cooling System

4 6

8 9

2. Next, find the tubing connection pattern for your furnace. Each grouping of elements must connect to the barb fittings on the appropriate face of the manifold.

Each arrangement is differnt so be sure and follow the one that matches your furnace. The numbers refer to the number of elements in the furnace.

a b a bc

a bc

a bc

a ba b

c

a b

c

a b

c


:Cooling System63. Next, we connect the coolers to the manifold using the tubing. The furthest elements connect to the lowest barbs on their respective manifold face (a, b or c) as seen below, this allows the tubing to layer and stack more evenly.

a

a

b

b

a

a

b

c

bc


:Cooling System 6

4. Connect all the coolers to the manifold one at a time, connecting the furthest coolers to the lowest barbs. The tubing must all fit between two openings, one on either side of the manifold.

*Placing the tubing outside of these uprights will not let the top cage go back on. The larger models may require that the tubing be looped around.

*Do not let the tubing get kinked, as no air will pass through and the cooler will heat up.

Pick a group to start with (a, b or c) and Insert one end of the tubing on to the lowest hose barb fitting on that face of the manifold.

Measure out the length to the furthest element cooler of that group and use a razor knife and cut the tube. Leave about five inches of extra length, you may have to reposition the tube later.

Connect the other end of the tubing to cooler so there is about a half an inch of tubing on the cooler.


7 Element Wiring

Wiring in the elements requires:

The element straps The 10 mm wrenches that were providedThe 5/16” hardware A ½” socket And a crescent wrench or ½” wrench

In element sizing there are two measurements: thickness and length. The thickness is what is referenced here. Elements are identified by two thickness measurements and represented as heater thickness/terminal thickness (mm).

With furnaces, there are two sizes of elements that are used: either the 6/12 elements or the 9/18 elements. The #75, #100 and #200 furnaces all use 6/12 elements and the 300# and up use 9/18 elements. This is relevant because the 6/12 elements require one strap per element terminal and the 9/18 elements require two straps per element terminal.

1. The element straps come in two parts: the strap itself and the clip to hold it securely on the element. The nut is fused into place so you have to unscrew the bolt to fit the clip over the strap. Assemble all clamps and straps and leave the bolts loose so you can fit them over the terminal ends.


7:Element Wiring

2. Next, with the bolt unscrewed and the end clip on, gently wiggle the strap back and forth as you slowly move the strap down the terminal. It helps to brace the element brick with your hand placed on the element clamp.

*If you are having a hard time getting the strap on, it may be that some of the straps can get knots in the braiding. Look inside the element loop to see if there are any obstructions in the path.

You may need to ream them out or get another strap. Sometimes they just have to be worked down by holding both sides of the strap assembly and wiggled down evenly.

3. Place all the straps on the terminals, make sure that the straps are completely on the white part of the element terminal.

*If there are two straps per terminal keep them both as high up on the terminal as possible. Two straps are just a little bigger than the connection area provided on the terminal.


8 :Element Wiring

4. Arrange the straps according to the pattern that corresponds with your furnace type, provided in the following pages (numbers). Each furnace and phase has a specified number of straps, and designated connections.

*Be sure to arrange the straps with the ends pointing towards the outside of the furnace so the links do not touch each other. Allowing the straps to tough will cause short.

5. Next, you join the strap ends. Get the 5/16” hardware, the 1/2” wrenches, and the bottle of No-Alox. Begin by applying the No-Alox to the strap ends.

Connect the strap ends from each link together by putting the hardware through the holes. If there are two straps per terminal connect all four straps together. Do not separate the two pairs of straps.

Each bolt assemble has to have two washers and at least one lock washer. Some furnaces will use longer bolts for the welding cables. If this is the case with your furnace, be sure to use the shorter ones to connect the strap ends. There are also some extra bolts incase one gets too corroded to use later.

*Above:#200 & 300 Single Phase wiring pattern.


8:Element Wiring

7. Before moving on to the next step, re-tighten all of the bolts on the straps and all of the connection bolts. Loose connections are the #1 cause of failure in an electrical system.

Don’t put the top cage on yet. Wait until the very end, you will need to tighten the connections one more time.

6. Now, pull the welding cables through the strain relief plate on the back. The designations of the welding cables are shown on the wiring pattern diagrams as well. Use the larger bolts provided. Each cable is labeled. Place according to the diagrams.

*Do not lay the welding cables across any straps or elements


7 :Element Wiring

The diagrams that follow are labeled accordingly to the phase and furnace size. They give accurate placements of the strap connections so follow the cable designations and strap patterns closely.

Single Phase:#75 - element size 6/12, 280 le/400 lu#100 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu


7:Element Wiring



7 :Element Wiring



7:Element Wiring

Three Phase:#100 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu#200 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu#300 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu


7 :Element Wiring

Three Phase:#400 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu#600 - element size 9/18, 300 le/500 lu


8Thermocouple Wiring

Now that you have set up the cooling system and wired the elements, the next step is the Thermocouple wiring.

The thermocouple wires are type R, rated for temperatures up to 3000F. There are two thermocouple wires in the assembly; one is wired to your 981 controller and one is wired to your Over-Temperature Protection.

When the Furnace is heated up you will notice a difference in the temperature readings, these readings will come closer together.

While thermocouples are a good indication of the temperature, you should always pay more attention to the glass rather than the temperature reading. That is why you should not rely on exact temperatures for batching, cooking or working.

Flange Fitting

Liquid-Tite

Liquid-Tite Fitting

Thermocouple Assembly

Thermocouple Wires


8 :Thermocouple Wiring

1. Unwrap the thermocouple head and insert the flange fitting on the side of the furnace. Carefully match the threads and rotate a couple of threads for stability. Do not tighten all the way. After use, damage can occur if the thermocouple has been tightened too much.

3. Push some of the wire back into the liquid-tite fitting for slack when rewiring occurs. Cut the wires to length as shown and strip the wires so there is about ½” of exposed wire. Then fold the exposed wire in half.

2. Place the liquid-tite in the fitting as pictured. Pull the thermocouple wires through, then insert the liquid-tite into the fitting and screw down the compression fitting.


8:Thermocouple Wiring

4. The black wire is positive and the red wire is negative. There are positive and negative symbols engraved on the ceramic plate underneath both thermocouples.

5. The center screws on each thermocouple should never be unscrewed. The outer screws are for the holes that the wires go into in the terminal block. Insert the exposed folded end into the connector with positive and negative in the appropriate sides and screw down tightly.


9 Control Unit Wiring

Wiring Components:

Illustrated below are the basic components that we will be working with in this section.

*Extreme caution needs to be taken when working with electricity. A licensed electrician should make all the connections


:Control Unit Wiring 9

Control Panel

*Breaker Box

*MFD (main fuse disconnect)

Transformer

* The Breaker Box and the MFD are not included. The Breaker Box should be your existing box and the MFD will have to be purchased

Control Unit



The Control Panel is mostly pre wired and tested in our facility, however, there are still a few connections you must make. You should have a licensed electrician make all of the connections from your breaker to the control panel.

The control unit system consists of two main components:

1. Control Panel

2. Transformer

There are several indicators and controls on the face of the Control Unit that will be important.

981

Overature limiter

Power indicator light

On/off switch

Door lights

a

d

b

c

e

a

d

bc

e

Control Panel & Transformer:

*Extreme caution needs to be taken when working with electricity.


:Control Unit Wiring 9Inside the Control Panel you will find:

Logo PLC (programmable logic control)

Ice cube Relays (interposing relays)

SCR

Safety

Contactors

High PowerLow PowerFuses

Breaker switch


9 :Control Unit Wiring

Wiring Connections:

By now you should have the Blower, the Door Switch and the Thermocouples all connected to the Control Panel. Now you are ready to hook power up to the Control unit.

There are two separate circuits that need to be connected to hook up the furnace to a power source: the Control Circuit and the Power Wiring. Both the Power Wiring and the Control Circuit need to connect the control Panel to the Breaker Box. The Control Circuit will also pass through an MFD before it connects to the Breaker Box. Each connectionwill be outlined in greater detail on the following pages.

Door switch

Blower

Thermocouples

*Extreme caution needs to be taken when working with electricity.



1. The power wiring to the safety

2. The control circuit to the breaker switch

3. The power wiring to the MFD

4. The power wiring and the control circuit to the breaker box


:Control Unit Wiring

The power wring that feeds the elements should be rated at 125% of the FLA (Full Load Amperage). This means that if you have 100 amps of current, you should have a conductor (wire) that is rated to carry at least 125 amps.

The chart on he following page shows the FLA and the 125% rating for the power circuits of the various sizes of furnaces with the most common voltages. Stranded THHN wire is recommended.

Connect the power wiring to the safety contactor in the center of the control panel. The connections are labeled x1, x2, and x3 on the backplane.

You should tighten these connections repeatedly to compensate for Cold Creep. Tighten them about 30 minutes after you first connect them and then again after you run the furnace. After this you should only have to tighten them every four months or so.

9

1. The power wiring to the safety



#75

#100

#200

#300

#400

#600

#70

#100

#200

#300

#400

#600

FLA

125%

9

208v 480v240v

1Ø/3Ø 1Ø/3Ø 1Ø/3ØKW

1Ø/3Ø

10

12 17 57 48 50 41 25 21

17 20 82 56 71 49 36 25

25 30 121 84 105 73 62 43

35 40 170 111 146 97 73 57

55 60 265 167 230 145 115 73

48 41 21

71 60 62 51 31 26

102 70 89 61 45 31

151 105 131 91 76 54

212 139 183 121 91 71

331 209 288 181 144 91

60 51 26

FLA x

FLA x 125%

AWG or kcmil

25 35 50 65 85 100 115 130 150 175 200 230 255 285 310 335 380

12 10 8 6 4 3 2 1 1/0 2/0 3/0 4/0 250 300 350 400 500



2. The control circuit to the ice cube relays

The Control Circuit wire should also be rated at 125% of the FLA (Full Load Amperage). Romex wire is recommended.

Connect the Control Circuit wire to the Breaker in the top left corner of the control panel.



3. The power wiring to the MFD

Every furnace requires a main fuse disconnect line inside of the circuit breaker in the main breaker panel. The disconnect should be mounted within five feet of the control panel.

Both the Control Circuit and the Power Wiring will pass through the MFD. However, only the Power Wiring will connect. The Control Circuit will run along side the connection in the box but will not connect to anything.

5’


9 :Control Unit Wiring

4. The power wiring and the control circuit to the breaker box

Now you are ready to connect both the Control Circuit wire and the Power Wiring to the Breaker Box.

The furnace requires a dedicated breaker that meets the specifications provided by the specs sheet.

* Wiring electrical circuits can be dangerous. Always check and verify that the power is off.

There need to be two separate circuits; one for the high voltage that powers the elements and a 10 amp 120 volt breaker dedicated to the control circuitry.


:Control Unit Wiring 9Clean up:

Now that you have made all the necessary wiring connections, you need to organize and secure all the loose wires.

Run the wire for the door switch around the outside of the top ring. Us zip ties to secure the cable as shown.

Gather the extra slack from the door switch, blower and thermocouple wires, coil it and zip-tie them together. You can tie them to the Control Unit structure to keep them off the ground.


Control Unit Wiring

Two #600 kit units

#100 unit

9Here are some examples of what some of the different setups will look like:



#300 unit

#300 unit

9


10 Start Up Procedures& ProgrammingNow that Everything is connected you need to glaze in the heaters. All of your controls have been pre-programmed, including the warm up program.

WATLOW

PROCESS

DSPY MODE

HOLD

RUN

DEV

%OUT

SERIES 981L1 L2 L4L3

1. First, Dial up the 981 to about 250˚F manually using the arrow buttons on the right. These buttons correspond to DISPAY-2 Let the furnace run for about 5 minutes.

Display-2

Display-1

2. After the furnace has been running for 5 minutes, you will need to verify a few things. What you need to verify is determined by the type of Furnace you have.

#70: Check that the heaters are all glowing.

#100, 200: Check that the heaters are all glowing.DISPLAY-1 and DISPLAY-2 read within 10˚ of each other.

#300 and up:Check that the heaters are all glowing.DISPLAY-1 and DISPLAY-2 read within 10˚ of each other.DISPAY-2 will be flashing between the set temperatureand “A2LO” until the temperatures are close.

WATLOW

PROCESS

a2ol

250


10:Start Up Procedures& Programming

After this point, You should here the contactors click into low power. If not, refer to the “Troubleshooting” section.

3. Next, turn the power OFF using the toggle switch on the front of the control panel. You may notice smoke coming off of the element straps this is just excess water leaving the No-Alox.

4. Now that the furnace is OFF, retighten all of the element strap connections and put the cage on.

WATLOW

PROCESS

HOLD

RUN

F le 1i

5. Turn the furnace back ON. Press the “HOLD/RUN” button once and “FILE 1” will appear on DISPLAY-1. Press the “HOLD/RUN” button again to begin running File one. The light at the corner of the button will come on.


10 :Start Up Procedures& Programming

Programming:

1. To Program the 981 for a batching schedule press the “MODE” button. This opens the operations menu. Using the up and down arrow buttons, scroll until “PROG” appears on DISPLAY-1.

WATLOW

PROCESS

Prog

MODE

2. Now press “MODE”, this takes you to the file prompt. The default is “1”. If a different file is desired, use the arrows to the file # you wish.

MODE

WATLOW

PROCESS

1

F le i

4. Now press “MODE”, This will also take you to the “STEP” menu. Like the “FILE” menu, “STEP 1” is the default. Again, use the up and down arrow buttons to go to the step # you need.

MODE

WATLOW

PROCESS

1

seep


10:Start Up Procedures& Programming

4. Now press “MODE”, This will also take you to the “STYP” (step type) menu. The default is “END”. Use the up and down arrows to action you need.

* Please reference the manual supplied by WATLOW for details on any further programming needs

MODE

WATLOW

PROCESS

end

seyp


11 Maintenance

2. Check for volcanos or chimneys along the element bricks when you check the connections. If you see any glowing chimneys along side the element bricks, gently stuff as much frax fiber down the hole as you can to plug it up.

If a lot of off gassing occurs where the frax has been eaten away, cut out the damaged frax and replace it with new frax.

Several Maintenance issues will arise form time to time. Here are the steps that will need to be taken to maintaining your furnace:

1. Tighten the connections on the top of the furnace every 4 months. This includes the element straps and cooling tubes and welding cables. Doing so increases the life and helps you to notice when certain ones may need to be changed.

If a strap or welding cable is dull looking, it is still usable but may corrode faster if not looked after. However, If a strap is matted looking, flaky or crusty, REPLACE IT. I welding cable or lug is corroded, cut the cable back past the corroded part and attach new lug.


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3. Build up happens around the door depending on the type of glass you use and how you batch it. It it does, while the furnace is OFF and cold, take a diamond angle grinder pad to it. It will not hurt the casting.

4. Replacing the door casting is simple. Pop out the casting by unscrewing the whole assembly and removing it from the door frame. Then unscrew the rest of the housing and pull the housing off of the casting. If you need to replace the frax, use 2600˚ fiber and squeeze five 1” layers in the shell and put back together in the original order.

When setting the first layer of nuts on the all thread posts, measure them 3-1/2 “ from the casting surface.


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Replacing the face casting:

To replace a face casting, do steps 1-11 of the Crucible Chance. Then, continue with this section.

1. To begin, undo the straps on the metal side panels and take out the self drilling screws on the bottom of the side panels. Only undo the straps of the part coming off. Do not undo all the straps on a furnace.

2. Now peel the sides forward where the stainless face releases. Then, lift the sides out of the base clips. Begin removing the Frax around the gathering port, keeping it a intact as you can.


3. The frax on the side of the gathering port is layered on. Gently and slightly peel them away from the castings about 2”.

4. Wrap a chain hoist through the casting (the casting won’t break). Lift it straight up and out of it’s position, trying not to disturb any of the frax and set it down out of the way.

5. Pick the new casting up in the same manner, rotate accordingly and lower into place. If the crucible has already been taken out, it may be helpful to stand inside the furnace to align it as you lower it into place.

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6. Shore up the casting joints by using a mallet or a dead blow hammer. Do not hit the casting directly, Use a 2x4 to protect the casting. Make sure all the joints line up inside.

7. Squeeze the frax pieces you took out back around the bottom of the face casting in the same order they were in. Stuff as much frax back as you can. You may also have to add more frax.

Do not replace the frax above the face casting, you will do this after you reattach the panels.


9. Replace the side panels exactly the way you took them off. If the casting catches a little, don’t be afraid to bang it into place. Put the straps back together and replace the screws on the base clips.

10. With everything back on, stuff frax around the face casting. This will take a fair amount of frax. Stuff it up to the top of the casting.

When you replace the crucible and crown you will continue stuffing before putting the top layers of frax back on.

11. Now you can continue with the putting your furnace back together. Refer to the installation sections for assembly.

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1. Turn the furnace up to 2300˚ F. Once it is warmed up, remove the dog house cover from the furnace to remove the frax plugs.

As you pull the frax plugs out, keep them in order as you will be placing them back inside the clean out port in that order when you are done.

2. Begin scraping out as much glass as possible.

*If your crucible is cracked and leaking, scrape out the glass until it does not flow anymore.

Changing the Crucible:

Crucible changes are recommended about every 80 batches and when a leak occurs.

The First step is to open up the clean out port and scrape out any glass that has accumulated in the bottom of the base casting. This is a recommended maintenance step to take whenever you change your crucible but is a critical step if your crucible is cracked.

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123. To change a crucible, pry away the pot from the sill and place a small section of soft brick between the crucible and the sill of the face casting while the furnace is still hot. This ensures that the crucible doesn’t cool and harden to the castings. Once the soft brick is in place, open the door and turn the furnace OFF by flipping the breaker switch.

When the temperature is tolerable, remove the brick and begin freeing the crucible. It should drop to level easily. If not, use a metal pry bar through the clean out port.

2. Next, start removing the thermocouple by unwiring and removing the liquid-tite from the fitting. Then, use a 5/16” hex driver to unscrew the self-drilling screws that hold the flange in place. Set the screws and the thremocouple somewhere safe.

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12 Crucible Change

4. Remove all the elements with extreme care as some deformity has occurred due to the temperature. Place all the elements safely away from the work area.

5. A chain hoist is required to remove the crown and the crucible. An average 1 ton chain hoist is more than adequate. A beam that is high enough to compensate for the length of the hoist and the crucible is critical.

If the hoist is not placed high enough the crucible will not clear the top ring. A forklift works well if your ceilings are high enough to lift the forks to the proper height.

3. Next, undo all the connections between the elements, leaving the straps connected to the element terminals. Disconnect and remove the welding cables as well.

Remove the clear hoses from the coolers by cutting a slit down the hose the length of the connection and wiggling it off. Leave the hoses connected to the manifold.


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6. Fish a strap through two of the holes that seem to be centered on the crown.

7. Next, you will tie the straps into a knot. A Water Knot is used because it is solid and removable. Try to tighten the knot so there is as little slack in the toe rope as you can get.


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8. Move either the fork lift or the chain hoist into place. Lift slowly and begin to raise the crown off the top. Lift the crown free then move it away from the furnace set the crown on 2x4’s or some blocks. Something to keep it from pinching the tow cable.

9. Lift the crown free, then move it away from the furnace and set it down on some 2x4s or some blocks; something to keep it from pinching the toe rope.

10. Using nylon strapping rated to 1,000, tilt the crucible back and feed the trap underneath across the bottom. Be sure that the strap crosses directly underneath to ensure that the crucible does not fall out of the harness when you lift it.

Now, place a second strap perpendicular to the previous one. Tie the second strap securely across the top, keep the slack in both straps exactly the same to create a tension cradle for lifting the crucible.


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11. Gently lift the crucible out of the furnace using the chain hoist or forklift. Raise the crucible high enough to clear the top ring. Depending on the setup, move the furnace or the crucible to the side. Set down the crucible and strap the new one in the same way, making sure that the straps cross the bottom center of the crucible.

Tie the straps securely and tight. Leave as little slack as possible because the straps stretch and may not leave enough room for you to clear the top ring.

12. If needed place bricks in the under the crucible. Once you have dropped the crucible in you can stabilize it by scooting the bricks around by means of reaching through the clean out port. Only the #100 furnaces require bricks.

13. Now that the crucible is set, make sure it is stable. Pick the crown back up with the chain hoist or the forklift and place it back on top of the furnace. Make sure that all the frax is clear of the crown so you can get a tight level seal.

If you have to cut some frax back to get the crown back in, you have to stuff the top portion again around the crown with a little more frax to ensure proper insulation


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14. Line the crown up exactly the way it came off so that the elements will not obstruct the door opening or the thermocouple hole. The thermocouple should line up in between the elements in the chamber.

Once the crown is back on, start putting the elements back in and reconnecting everything on the furnace. Refer to the installation section for complete details.


13Trouble Shooting

The power is on but no elements are on:

1. Check to see if the door switch is triggered2. Check the fuses on the contactor circuits3. Are the contactors engaged?4. What is the controller set to?5. Is a breaker tripped?6. Is the SCR throwing an alarm? If so, Refer to the Watlow Power Series manual for instructions.

The furnace is on bit it keeps restarting itself:

1. Check for loose or bad connections 2. Check the diagnostics menu for the alarms on different phases3. See if a heater is out?

Loose or bad connections are the number one cause of failure to power on. Checking for a loose or bad connection begins with the IR thermometer, by pointing it at each connection point to see if there is a major difference in temperature. The hotter of any connections is the worst of them and should be changed.

Effective heat installation guide

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Transcript of Effective heat installation guide