Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 23 • Winter 2013 Jason Knibb | DIY Cocktails | Monkey Paw’s Brewer Fringe Fermentation | Solar Rain | Ballast Point Spirits Konyn Dairy | Wine on Tap The Beverage Issue th A N N I V E R S A R Y E D I B L E S A N D I E G O

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Jason Knibb, DIY Cocktails, Monkey Paw's Brewer, Fringe Fermentation, Solar Rain, Ballast Point Spirits, Konyn Dairy, Wine On Tap

Transcript of Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Page 1: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 23 • Winter 2013

Jason Knibb | DIY Cocktails | Monkey Paw’s BrewerFringe Fermentation | Solar Rain | Ballast Point SpiritsKonyn Dairy | Wine on Tap

The Beverage Issue

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Wine EnthusiastRATINGS

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Wine EnthusiastRATINGS

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Riley Davenport and John Vawter

We’re big on celebration in my family. It’s Friday? Great! Where’s the champagne? You got a new dog? Awesome! Let’s get together and celebrate! No cavities at the dentist? Let’s raise a glass to how wonderful life is. You get the picture. And all those celebrations, big and small, were toasted with some festive libation. Not a bad way to go, always looking for the next thing to be happy about.

So you can imagine how much cause for whooping it up our fifth anniversary gives us. We have so much to be grateful for and so much to celebrate.

I wasn’t putting two and two together when we decided to make the winter issue the Beverage Issue. It just seemed like an appropriate theme for what my sister calls the Sparkly

Season. Then I realized that this issue marks our five-year anniversary and that we have even more to celebrate than usual.

This anniversary is a personal marker since Edible San Diego had a life before us. Six issues were printed before we jumped in in 2009 and we are forever grateful to Jeff and Mary Willis who had the hope and courage to give Edible San Diego its start. When it was time for them to take a different path, we got the chance to embrace a new opportunity, a new community, a new life. I guess you could say this is the fifth anniversary of our new life. And we love it!

We’ve come a long way since we picked up the Edible San Diego baton. We started printing 10,000

34-page magazines and are now printing 37,000 60-page magazines. We went from working our fingers to the bone just trying to break even to becoming a sustainable business (with slightly less bony fingers). Back then we just laughed if someone suggested we should produce an e-newsletter or an event. We had our hands more than full with the business of publishing. Now we have a monthly e-newsletter, a twice monthly blog and quarterly release parties. We couldn’t figure out social media in 2009 and now we have over 16,000 Facebook and Twitter followers. We certainly didn’t have the bandwidth to produce events to benefit causes and organizations whose missions we support. Today we are promoting school gardens with our School Garden of the Year contest and are working with Slow Food Urban San Diego and Sempra Energy to produce an Edible San Diego for Kids that will bring information about local agriculture and healthy food to thousands of local elementary school kids.

So raise a glass and make merry with us at Blind Lady Ale House on December 5, 2013! We’ll be congratulating ourselves and being thrilled about all the last five years has brought to us.

CONTRIBUTORSJohn Alongé

Chelsea BattenChris Rov Costa

Aaron EpsteinKristen Fogel

Enrique GiliCaron Golden

Anastacia GrendaBrandon Hernández

Kay LedgerVincent RossiSusan RussoLeah SingerMatt Steiger

John ThurstonLyudmilla Zotova

PUBLISHERSRiley Davenport

John Vawter

EDITORRiley Davenport, Executive Editor

Britta Turner, Managing Editor

COPY EDITORSDoug Adrianson

John VawterMichelle Honig

DESIGNERRiley Davenport

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa

CONTACTEdible San Diego

P.O. Box 83549San Diego, CA 92138

[email protected]

ediblesandiego.com

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Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error comes to your attention,

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Winter 2013

CONTENTS Departments

TWO CENTS 2

JUST SPROUTING 6

LOCAL TALENT: 16 JASON KNIBB OF NINE-TEN

LOCAL TALENT: 21 COSIMO SORRENTINO OF MONKEY PAW

LIQUID ASSETS: COMING AROUND TO KOMBUCHA 24

LIQUID ASSETS: 27 VERMOUTH REVISITED

KITCHEN KNOW HOW: 34 A TOAST TO THE HARVEST

RESOURCES & ADVERTISERS 50

FARMERS’ MARKETS 56

FEATURES

LAST MAN STANDING? 30 LOCAL DAIRY INDUSTRY IS DOWN BUT NOT OUT

FARM BILL IN LIMBO 38

SOLAR RAIN WATERY 42

FRINGE FERMENTATION: 44 CIDER, MEAD AND COUNTRY WINE CONCOCTIONS

LOCAL BREWER UPS ANTE 47 WITH LINE OF SPIRITS

PINOT BY THE PINT 48 WINE ON TAP? WE’LL DRINK TO THAT

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Forty Ways to Love a FigThis last September the California Fig Advisory Board paired with the San Diego chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier to bring the annual Fig Fest to town. It was a very successful event that featured over 40 chefs working their magic and imaginations to come up with creative, delectable recipes starring figs. The two chefs featured here — Karrie Hills and Jeff Rossman—won two of the top three awards for their offerings.

Karrie Hills: The Artist in the Kitchen

Karrie Hills has always had a receptive crowd for her cooking. As one of 16 children growing up in Northern California, she’s been working the stove since she can remember, having been taught and inspired by her mother and grandmother. “Mom could always make something out of nothing,” she recalls.

Both a gardener and insatiable reader of cookbooks and recipes, Hills graduated from the California Culinary Academy and has spent years cooking in restaurants up and down the California coast. She’s trained with culinary notables including Tyler Florence, Bobby Flay, Cherie Sovia and Fabio Viviani. Most recently, she’s brought her locavore aesthetic to The Red Door and The Wellington in Mission Hills, where she’s executive chef.

“I really want to do more to showcase the garden for The Red Door while also establishing relationships with local farmers to showcase their products,” she says. For the more intimate sister restaurant, The Wellington, she has set her eye on refining classic dishes with an American twist.

While Hills has a passion for painting and drawing, being a chef has excited her in ways that the visual arts couldn’t quite match. “There’s instant gratification in

creating food,” she says. “It’s exciting for a chef to inspire people through food. And to be in a career where you can never know everything is exhilarating.”

Caron Golden

Jeff Rossman: On Terra Firma

The notion of farm-to-table restaurants in San Diego has become so ubiquitous it’s hard to remember that not that long ago a locavore menu was a rare sighting. Jeff Rossman, executive chef and owner of Terra American Bistro in the College area, Bunz,

Terra Catering and Shalom Kosher Catering, was among the first local proponents of the movement, and it’s reflected in both his 2010 cookbook, From Terra’s Table: New American Food, Fresh From Southern California’s Organic Farms—and his earning the San Diego Farm Bureau’s inaugural San Diego Grown 365 Award in 2011.

Rossman began his career as a 12-year-old washing dishes in his dad’s Hotel Circle eatery, Pam Pam (where Bunz is today). He attended UCSD in the ‘80s, studying economics, but his extracurricular exploration of ethnic restaurants led him back to Pam Pam’s kitchen and, eventually, his opening Terra in Hillcrest in 1998. There, his farm-to-table evolution began, as did his focus on teaching kids about nutrition and the environment through organizations like the From the Ground Up Garden Project.

“I’m passionate about talking about food and working with kids,” he says. “As a chef I’m an educator about food. I want to give people a wow factor, not just by what they taste on the plate but by teaching where their food comes from.”

Caron Golden

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

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{Just Sprouting}

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Brandon Hernández

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Green SmoothiesIf the phrase green smoothie conjures up a vision of unappetizing dark sludge, think again. They’re cropping up in farmers’ markets, retail stores and even home delivery services. Local purveyors compare the smoothies to blended salads—and, like salads, they can be enhanced with a variety of ingredients to create appealing tastes (and colors).

An ideal green smoothie “should balance carbs, protein and fats,” says Jennifer Copyak, who uses them in her Encinitas-based Luminosity Cleanse program. Her recipe includes various greens, ripe avocados, lentils and mung beans for protein, and apple for sweetening. La Jolla’s Bee Green has a menu of around nine smoothies with ingredients such as cucumber, beet or pineapple. At Vitality Tap, a downtown juice bar, blend-ins include hemp and chia seeds, spirulina and chaga mushrooms to boost your juice.

Like salads, green smoothies are an easy way to consume more veggies—yet unlike juicing, the blending process preserves beneficial fiber. July Fuentez, a former smoothie expert with San Diego’s GreenFix Smoothie, says their 16-ounce drinks provide a full day’s worth of vegetables.

Anastacia Grenda

LOCAL RESOURCES:

LuminosityCleanse.com

BeeGreenWorld.com

GreenFixSmoothie.com

Facebook.com/vitalitytap

Beer Guide on Tap: Local Brew Authority Writes the Book on ItOn the strength of six years reviewing the “quaffable” in San Diego, Brandon Hernández has just released a guide to beer-tasting experiences in San Diego. The San Diego Beer News Complete Guide to San Diego Breweries is similar to the famous Zagat Review for restaurants: points are awarded for beer quality, setting and service. Extra features such as tours, on-site food and live entertainment allow smaller breweries to surpass past bigger-budget operators.

In San Diego’s chummy beer scene, ratings might strike a controversial note. But Brandon says he doesn’t intend to discourage visits to any of

San Diego’s beer venues.

“This is designed so people can decide what they want based on their personal

preferences, and find it,” says the author, who is also a regular contributor to Edible San Diego.

Each entry describes the venue’s hours, location, beer offerings,

seating options and more, including one or two “best beer bets,” described as reliable core beers visitors can count on

seeing at each venue.

To ensure accuracy and fairness in the ratings, Brandon enlisted a

team of industry experts, quality-control personnel and local bar owners. For himself, Brandon says, objectivity has never been a challenge; he wryly admits to having made a few enemies with his penchant for honest critique. The joy and strong community inherent in San Diego’s beer scene have created an atmosphere where

it’s difficult to discern higher quality operations from the average and subpar because everyone supports one another.

“Most writers are so happy the community exists that they only find good things to say. It’s all rah-rah and the history of the brewery. That’s all well and good, of course, but few go into any shortcomings. I feel I owe it to the reader to be extremely honest. As a journalist, if you’re going to talk about something as rich and positive as the San Diego brewing scene, especially as saturation starts to occur, what else can you really do?”

But make no mistake: Brandon’s criticism is built on the foundation of deep affection.

“In the late ’90s when I discovered craft beer, it was that aha! moment.” His voice gets a little softer. “‘I didn’t know this existed and I immediately thought: ‘I want to know more; I can’t believe these companies are in my backyard.’ San Diego craft beer is exceptional and very dear to my heart. It produces a joy for me that’s hard to explain, but palpable, and something I strive to share with the world.”

Chelsea Batten

{Just Sprouting}

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Celebrating Sustainable FoodBuilding Healthy CommunitiesPromoting Food Justice

GOOD, CLEAN & FAIR! Slow Food is committed to preserving food traditions and reviving the table as a center of family and community.

Join Slow Food and make a real difference.Slow Food San Diego • slowfoodsandiego.netSlow Food Temecula Valley • temeculavalleyslowfood.orgSlow Food Urban San Diego • slowfoodurbansandiego.org

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Cupcakes + Beer = PubCakesCupcakes and beer sounds like an odd coupling, but if beer and flour are baked with the proper spices and generously frosted with, for example, a delectable cocoa malt frosting— well, here’s to a long and happy marriage!

PubCakes is the brainchild of Misty Birchall.

Her tawny, tender and delicious beer-based cupcakes are a hit at local farmers’ markets and craft beer bars throughout San Diego. And due to her recent, very successful Kickstarter campaign, now you can whip up your own beer-infused cupcakes at home with her new Craft Beer Cake Mix.

Craft Beer Cake Mix flavors include Chocolate Stout, Vanilla Ale, Cocoa Porter and Belgian Spice. They are formulated and spiced to complement specific San Diego beers. For example, Birchall recommends preparing the Belgian Spice cake mix with Wahoo Wheat Beer from Ballast Point Brewery, or with Green Flash Brewery Le Freak Ale. Notably, the mixes can be prepared with all vegan ingredients.

Birchall gets a big kick watching people sample her cupcakes.

“They are shocked and amazed at how good beer makes them,” she says. Her next project will be a PubCakes AleSmith

Speedway Stout chocolate sauce, from which just the ingredients alone have the potential to knock your socks off.

For recipes and the latest information on where to find Craft Beer Cake Mix and to learn more about upcoming offerings, visit PubCakes.com.

Kay Ledger

Misty Birchall

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10 edible San Diego winter 2013

{Just Sprouting}

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Balazs Moldovan

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Craftsmanship and Tradition Combine in the Making of Modern American Classic Furniture Bourbon whiskey and wine barrels converted into Adirondack chairs is upcycling done right. Balazs Moldovan takes found materials to create something new; evoking a style of furniture introduced in the 1900s that embodies comfort and relaxation. One can imagine leaning back in his ample wooden chairs, while sipping from a tumbler of sour mash.

Launched in 2012, what began as a whim has turned into a promising career for Moldovan, the CEO and sole employee of the Hungarian Workshop. When the real estate collapse in Las Vegas caused his burgeoning construction business to suddenly halt, the Hungarian native lit out for the West Coast seeking new opportunities. Moldovan’s new surroundings led to an epiphany. Californians’ fondness for bohemian surf culture could benefit from tasteful handmade furniture.

Made from aged and discarded wine and whiskey barrels, Moldovan creates comfortable, modern chairs to complement both interior and exterior design. “No two chairs are alike,” he explains. Tannins add flavor to both wine and whiskey but also stain the wood, giving the barrels a distinct patina. Moldovan acquires and sorts spent barrels based on wood color and width, which he then begins to assemble and shape into beautiful seated fixtures. “My first 20 chairs or so were practice,” he confides.

Initially, Moldovan posted early versions of his Adirondack chairs on Etsy.com, a site designed for small-business owners to sell and market their crafts. The slow and steady interest from curious buyers intrigued by the design has supported his business, which continues to expand.

Among the curious buyers was his first major client, Stone Brewing Co., which

needs a great many tables, chairs and outdoor furniture for their San Diego restaurants and breweries. Moldovan now has a constant demand from private customers for his custom patio furniture and has little time for relaxing in his own creations—with or without the tumbler.

Enrique Gili

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A San DiegoNative

Ocean Sourced Made Locally for Freshness

Find us at Harney Sushi, Brooklyn Girl Eatery, Market in Del Mar, Island Palms,

Blazin Grille, Rubicon Deli, Toma Sol, Tuscany, Ki’s, Greenspot, Lodge at Torrey Pines,

Humphreys at the Bay, and Jsixto name a few, and of course Whole Foods,

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{Local Talent}

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Polite Provisions Stirs Up Home BartendingIn the heart of Normal Heights lies Polite Provisions, a classic cocktail lounge offering tonics, elixirs and cures. The bustling bar is quickly making its mark in the community, and what started as a place to enjoy great cocktails has become one of the leading retailers selling high-quality bar tools, equipment and bitters.

Proprietor Erick Castro made the decision to sell bartending equipment because he saw a need among San Diego’s bartending community and cocktail connoisseurs for a place to buy quality products. “People started asking us where we bought our bartending tools because they wanted those same tools,” said Castro. “We don’t sell anything that we don’t use ourselves.” Bitters are a critical component of Polite Provisions’ signature cocktails. Originally used for medicinal purposes, each bitters variety has a unique flavor extracted from herbs, fruits, spices and roots. The mixture is added to a cocktail’s base liquor to give the drink a distinctive taste. From the bitters to the tools, quality is of the utmost importance to Castro. Their cocktail juices are squeezed daily and only raw cane sugar is used for sweetening drinks. Castro is always willing to share his favorite recipes with customers who express interest in trying their hand at replicating them.

“I want to tear down the wall from spectator to participant,” said Castro. “If people love our drinks, we will make it easy for them to buy the tools and ingredients necessary to make them at home.”

Leah Singer

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Take Me Out for Some CoffeeBird Rock Coffee Roasters has modernized the ballpark experience with their pour-over coffee bar at Petco Park. The Padres partnered with Bird Rock Coffee as part of a plan to feature local artisans within ballpark concessions. This is the first time that pour-over coffee service has been offered at a major league ballpark or sports venue, according to Owner Chuck Patton.

The popular La Jolla coffee shop has served coffee drinks in a café-style area under the stands by the Western Metal building since midway through the season. Owner Chuck Patton was pleasantly surprised at the success of this new venture, which became the store’s second retail location.

“People who knew about us were excited because they now have a great coffee option at the ballpark,” said Patton.

In addition to his first customers at Petco Park, Patton also welcomed San Francisco

Giants fans into the original Bird Rock Coffee store after they sampled the coffee at the ballpark.

The best part of this endeavor, for Patton, has been “reaching out to new customers and introducing them to a high-quality coffee experience,” he said. “We’ve exposed a lot of people to true specialty coffee.”

For San Diego coffee fans, that’s been a big hitter for this season.

Leah Singer

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

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{Just Sprouting}How Does Your Garden Grow?Edible San Diego is very interested in encouraging school gardens and all they have to offer to our children and communities.

We are excited to encourage those schools and community members that support school gardens by holding a School Garden of the Year contest!

Nutrition is an essential building block for student success. Research shows that healthy, active and well-nourished children are more likely to attend school and are more prepared and motivated to learn. While the primary responsibility of schools is to foster academic achievement, schools have a vested interest in guiding children toward healthier lifestyles by creating a healthy nutrition environment. School gardens are great for getting children out into nature, helping them learn important lessons about their food and exposing them to healthy food choices.

If you have a school garden going or would like to revive yours or start one, now is the time to show San Diego what you can do and all the benefits our children receive from your efforts.

Cash prizes will be awarded to winning gardens. We are actively seeking sponsors to help fund prizes. Urban Plantations and Slow Food Urban San Diego have

already generously contributed as sponsors.

If you are interested in entering your shool garden or in helping sponsor the contest, contact us at [email protected] or go to our web site: ediblesandiego.com/school-garden-of-the-year/

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{Local Talent}

Simple Man: Complex Dish By Brandon Hernández

Photos by Chris Rov Costa

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See pages 18 and 19 for Chef Knibb’s recipes.

It’s all who you know. It’s a timeless adage because it’s true. Case in point

is Jason Knibb, the executive chef of upscale contemporary eatery NINE-TEN at La Jolla’s Grande Colonial Hotel. His natural abilities in the kitchen are apparent in every beautifully composed dish he presents, but were it not for the influence of family and friends, he may never have taken to the culinary arts.

It all started at home with Knibb’s father, who he describes as “a foodie before there were foodies.” Hungry and adventurous dad delighted in taking his children to off-the-radar eateries with best-kept-secret status throughout their Los Angeles stomping grounds. This was Knibb’s introduction to amazing cuisine crossing many cultural borders. Knibb however, was never pulled to the culinary arts until his first job at a restaurant called White Feathers. “My friend was one of the chefs there and his job always looked fun and exciting to me,” recalls Knibb. That initial spark was enough to keep him in the restaurant industry. Soon, he was working for none other than Wolfgang Puck at one of the chef ’s restaurants in Eureka, California. And that, he says, is where it all started to make sense.

“One day, I came to work and the sous chef told me I had to come up with and prepare the nightly special. I started to freak out and asked the sauté girl what the heck I was going to do,” he says. “I was all worked up and she told me to just think about the things I liked and put them together. We

talked it out and I came up with a pizza special. It all felt really natural and that was when I knew that this was something I both could and wanted to do.”

Knibb has come a long way over the many years since that fateful date with an accommodating pizza oven. He has worked his way through numerous acclaimed gourmet kitchens from Maui to Poland. Along the way, he worked under Trey Foshee at Utah’s Sundance Resort. After moving from the Beehive State to La Jolla

Cove, Foshee stayed in touch with his former right-hand man, and when Knibb became a father and he and his wife voiced their desire to move back to Southern California to be closer to family, Foshee alerted him to a job opening at the then two-years-young NINE-TEN.

The rest is history, one that may have never come to be were it not for some very important people and countless chefs who influenced Knibb’s cooking style. “I’m all about simple, elegant food using the best products available and letting them shine,” he says. “There are all sorts of new culinary techniques these days that are cool and fun to have in the arsenal, but techniques are things that help us put food on the plate. I don’t start with technique.”

Instead, Knibb starts with flavor combinations—just like with that watershed pizza—built on extraordinary edibles. For those, he looks no further than his backyard. “We get a lot of our produce from Chino Farms, Crow’s Pass, Cunningham Organic and farmers’ markets around town. We also have our own hydroponic vegetable garden right here at the restaurant, which is very convenient.”

In winter, Knibb gets excited about kabocha pumpkin, apples, pears, celery root and faro.

Rather than shoot for signature dishes where those ingredients are made the same way every time, he prefers to treat them differently each time they come into season. “I create as I go and every day is different.”

Knibb approaches each of his offerings with painstaking precision: stacking, offsetting, dashing, dotting, dolloping, brush-stroking and garnishing them

with the skill of a true artist. Knibb’s food seems too beautiful to devour, but his edible masterpieces reward diners with bright, poignant, on-point flavors that never disappoint. D

Brandon Hernández is a native San Diegan with a passion for the culinary arts and the local dining scene. He is a local editor for Zagat; has been featured numerous times on the Food Network; contributes to over a dozen national and local magazines, newspapers and online outlets; has contributed to several cookbooks and is responsible for communications at local craft beer producer Stone Brewing Co. Follow him on Twitter at @offdutyfoodie or drop him a line at [email protected].

Knibb approaches each of his offerings with painstaking precision: stacking, offsetting, dashing, dotting, dolloping, brush-stroking and garnishing them with the skill of a true artist.

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Photo: Chris Rov Costa

18 edible San Diego winter 2013

Kabocha Pumpkin Soup with Roasted Maitake Mushrooms, Candied Pumpkin Seeds & Pickled OnionsServes 4

Ingredients

10 cups kabocha pumpkin, peeled & chopped

2 ounces olive oil

1 whole yellow onion, medium diced

1 leek, white part only, medium diced

1 rib celery, medium diced

2 carrots, peeled, medium diced

2 cloves garlic, sliced

1 tablespoon kosher or coarse sea salt

8 cups water or chicken stock

½ cup heavy cream, optional

1 pack maitake mushrooms, pan roasted

Candied pumpkin seeds, see recipe below

Pickled red onions, see recipe below

Candied Pumpkin Seeds

½ cup pumpkin seeds, toasted

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon water

Salt

In a small sauté pan, add sugar and water. Place on medium high heat. Once sugar has melted, add pumpkin seeds. Using a wooden spoon, stir the mixture to coat seeds. The sugar will crystallize and become dry. Place the seed mixture onto a plate and season with a little salt. Keep in a cool dry space.

Pickled Red Onions

1 medium red onion, halved through core and thinly sliced from top to bottom

½ cup sugar

½ cup white wine vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons coarse salt

1 ½ teaspoons whole black pepper

½ cinnamon stick

DO AHEAD. Place onion slices in medium bowl. Bring next five ingredients to a boil in heavy medium saucepan; pour over onions in bowl. Cover and cool to room temperature. Chill overnight. Can be made 3 weeks ahead. Keep chilled. Drain before serving.

Preheat a large pot on medium heat. Add olive oil, onion, leek, celery, carrots and garlic. Reduce the heat to low and sweat the vegetable mixture until tender, about 4-6 minutes stirring often. Once tender, add kabocha pumpkin, salt, water or chicken stock. Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to a simmer, cook for about 20 minutes, or until kabocha pumpkin is tender. Add cream and remove from heat.

Purée soup in batches in a blender until very smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). As each batch is puréed, pour through a coarse sieve, pressing on solids, into a saucepan. Ladle soup into four soup bowls and garnish with mushrooms, pickled onions and candied pumpkin seeds and serve.

Page 21: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

winter 2013 edible San Diego 19

Caramelized Bosc Pear & Burrata SaladServes 4

Ingredients:

2 whole bosc pears

8 slices prosciutto

2 4-ounce balls Burrata cheese

6 ounces arugula

¼ teaspoon whole allspice, cracked

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

Method:

Cut the pear in half and remove the seeds. Slice each half in to sixths. Sprinkle pears with sugar. Place a large sauté pan on medium high heat. Once the pan is hot add pears and sauté until golden brown and caramelized. Next add allspice and 1 tablespoon of vinegar. Toss and remove from heat. Let cool to room temperature.

To prepare the dressing, add 1 tablespoon vinegar in a bowl. If there is some residual juice from the roasted pears, add to the bowl. Slowly whisk with olive oil and reserve.

Cut the Burrata into six pieces.

To serve, place three pieces of pear on a large salad plate, creating a triangle. Place one slice of prosciutto on top and around the pears. Place three pieces of Burrata on and around the prosciutto and pears. In the same bowl used for the pears, dress the arugula and remainder of the pears with dressing. Season with salt and pepper. Place some salad in the center of the plate and serve.

Recommended wine pairing: California buttery Chardonnay

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Page 22: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

20 edible San Diego winter 2013

Page 23: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 21

Cosimo Sorrentino was so obsessed with home brewing that he selected

his residence based solely on the amount of interior and exterior space it provided for him to stock his homebrew operations. At the height of his recreational production, he had 28 or 30 buckets of fermenting wort bubbling away all over the different, temperature-controlled sections of his humble abode.

Feeling his beer needed the cranked air conditioning in his bedroom more than he did, Sorrentino slept on the couch beside a collection of brews huddled around his living room wall heater. He

even built several makeshift cold boxes using Styrofoam vaccination coolers that, apparently, work great for lagering.

It was never a matter of if he would become a professional brewer—only when.

“My brewing partner, Chris West, and I knew from the start we wanted to grow to be professionals,” says Sorrentino, sporting a black T-shirt with a grinning chimp on it. “So, we chose four or five beers plus some

seasonal stuff to experiment with in between, and worked to dial in the base recipes before playing around with new hops and other ingredients to see what the result would be with the bittering, aroma and flavor.”

The duo went to the nth degree in their efforts to refine their beers into something commercially viable. An important step was inquiring into the methods of local standout brewers, including those on the professional level. Doing so allowed Sorrentino to grow as a brewer. He was on a slow but steady path to accomplishing his goal when, out of the blue, everything changed.

No Monkeying Around

Homebrewing elbow grease eases San Diegan’s transition to pro brewer

By Brandon Hernández

It was never a matter of if he would become a professional brewer—

only when.

{Local Talent}

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Page 24: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

22 edible San Diego winter 2013

Last February, while managing Hillcrest beer-centric eatery Local Habit, Sorrentino got the opportunity to collaborate with East Village brewpub Monkey Paw Pub and Brewing, on an India pale ale using Sorachi Ace hops to mirror the flavors of Southern sweet tea. The beer was designed to pair with food served at a Monkey Paw beer dinner held on Mardi Gras at Local Habit. A lot transpired over the course of the two businesses’ teaming stint. Scot and Kathy Blair, Monkey Paw’s owners, had the chance to witness Sorrentino’s passion for brewing and his work ethic in action. Also, Monkey Paw’s head brewer gave notice two days after the Mardi Gras dinner.

“I remember, I was having lunch with my sister at Tiger! Tiger! Tavern that weekend and I got a call from Scot,” recalls Sorrentino, who in an effort to be polite to his sibling, let the call go to voice mail. That was followed by another call, and another, then a text, and another call. He took it and, 45 minutes later, was sitting with Blair at his University Heights watering hole, Small Bar, accepting a job offer to be Monkey Paw’s new head brewer.

In the nine months that have passed, Sorrentino has brewed well over 30 beers, all very different in style and makeup. It’s the perfect gig for a guy who says the one thing he most wants to do in his new position is to learn.

“I like that I’m out of my comfort zone with some of the beers, but it’s not just learning how to make beer,” he says. “It’s all the things that exist around beer: the business of beer—why certain breweries have the setups that they do and why some are successful while others aren’t.”

Part of the reason that Sorrentino has been successful out of the gate is the assistance he continues to receive from the rest of San Diego’s brewing community. Brewers Chuck Silva, Pat Korn and Eric Jenssen from Green Flash; Colby Chandler from Ballast Point; Nate Sampson from Hess; Bill Batten from AleSmith; and Jason Stockberger from Rock Bottom have all lent a hand and are deserving of shout-outs. So, too, are San Diego beer fans, for they afford Sorrentino his greatest pleasure.

“I get to watch people drinking my beer and enjoying it. Since I’m also the bar manager at Monkey Paw, I get to provide a special experience for the customer, provide them the experience they want—or maybe didn’t even know they wanted. As a manager and bartender, I used to do that with others’ products, but now it’s mine. I live for that.” D

Brandon Hernández, a native San Diegan, has a passion for the culinary arts and the local dining scene. He is a local editor for Zagat; has been featured many times on the Food Network; contributes to over a dozen national and local magazines, newspapers and online outlets; has contributed to several cookbooks and is responsible for communications at Stone Brewing Co. Follow him on Twitter at @offdutyfoodie or drop him a line at [email protected].

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Page 25: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

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Page 26: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

24 edible San Diego winter 2013

Coming Around to

Kombucha

I’ve never eaten wet grass clippings, but I’m positive I know the flavor based on my first

experience five years ago with kombucha, a fermented tea drink.

A friend in Portland convinced me to try her home brew, a disturbingly grayish-green and pungent-smelling liquid. I swallowed a mouthful and stifled a gag.

“It takes some getting used to,” she assured me.

After that, I swore off kombucha. That is, until a few months ago when at a Whole Foods my husband walked over to me proudly holding a bottle of it.

“Here, I bought this for you. It’s supposed to be really healthy.”

I braced myself in expectant horror and took a swig. I didn’t gag. It didn’t taste like vinegary wet grass. It was carbonated, gently spicy and had a pleasing ginger aroma. It wasn’t just not bad; it was good.

“Let’s get another bottle,” I said.

I’m not alone in my initial dislike of kombucha. Despite having been around for hundreds of years, it’s a relative newcomer on the libation block. As Anne Smith, owner of Anne’s

Kombucha based in La Jolla, explains, “Kombucha is a foreign flavor for most people. It’s both sweet and sour at the same time. It’s a flavor most people aren’t familiar with at all.”

Smith admits that when she first started doing kombucha tasting demos at local markets years ago, many people would initially bristle at its sourness. Then they’d come back a while later, saying, “The more I have it the more I get used to it, and I like it.”

Today, she has a robust business selling her organic kombucha in numerous markets and health food stores such as Jimbo’s… Naturally and Whole Foods.

Fermented Tea Drink Is a Taste Worth

Acquiring

By Susan Russo

{Liquid Assets}

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Page 27: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 25

Kombucha flavors vary widely. Smith explained that all kombuchas possess a sour flavor that evolves naturally from the fermentation process—a shorter fermentation yields a less acidic, slightly sweeter flavor, while a longer fermentation yields a more assertive, sour flavor. If you like Granny Smith apples and Sour Gummies, then you’ll probably like kombucha.

Alan Conrad, the founder of Edible Alchemy, a local purveyor of kombucha and fermented foods, explains that many factors influence kombucha’s flavor including the type of tea that’s used, the use of fresh fruits and vegetables versus nectars or juices, the length of fermentation and the amount of love that goes into it. Yes, love.

Conrad, who has been brewing kombucha for a decade, says, “There’s been a big change in my own kombucha making. I thank the kombucha now.” He begins to laugh self-consciously. “I don’t mean to sound too out there, but it feels real to me. When I’m making kombucha, I’m physically putting love and thanks into it. That’s part of the alchemy I put into my food.”

I don’t know if it’s the love or the organic local produce Conrad uses, but I’m partial to his mildly sour, fruit-forward kombuchas that come in various seasonal brews such as blueberry-cilantro, spicy watermelon-jalapeño and apple cinnamon. He evens sells a “kombeercha,” his homage to the San Diego craft beer scene. With its light carbonation and bitterness, it’s akin to pale ale, with fewer calories. In fact, he explained that all kombucha contains some alcohol due to fermentation, but the amounts are negligible.

While kombucha is clearly not beer, it’s already on tap at local eateries. When Adam Hiner, former owner of Local Habit in Hillcrest, was looking for a healthy alternative to soda and beer, he decided to offer diners organic draft kombucha in appealing flavors such as white grapefruit and orange-carrot.

Other venues are following suit. Kamikaze 7 Sushi Joint (also known as K7) and Vitality Tap, both located downtown, offer Anne’s Kombucha on tap.

As for its health benefits—kombucha has been touted as a cure-all—the jury is still out. Despite countless anecdotal accounts of its medicinal powers, the scientific evidence isn’t there. Smith swears kombucha, particularly her blue-green algae variety, gives her more energy during her gym workouts.

Here’s the thing with kombucha. You don’t have to drink it for medicinal purposes. Drink it because it’s a tasty, refreshing, low-calorie libation. And if, like me, you are holding a grudge against kombucha, then take Conrad’s advice: “If you think you don’t like kombucha, try a smaller batch because it might actually be good.” D

Susan Russo is a freelance food and travel writer, author of The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches and monthly columnist for the San Diego Union-Tribune. She loves Montana, hiking, craft beer, purple colored produce and spoiling her nieces. Connect with her on Twitter @Susan_Russo or drop her a line at [email protected]

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Page 28: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

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winter 2013 edible San Diego 27

If you have a home bar, chances are your bottle of vermouth is collecting dust at

the back of a cabinet. Unless I’m making a Martini or a Manhattan, I don’t touch the stuff. At best it’s tolerably bitter; at worst it’s intolerably medicinal.

Turns out I’m not alone. There are some American bartenders who use eyedroppers to add it to mixed drinks. Yet, in many European countries, including Italy and Spain, vermouth is enjoyed by the glass, on its own.

Curious about this discrepancy, I asked Jen Queen, San Diego mixologist and head of the San Diego Bartender’s Guild, why so many people dislike its flavor.

“Most people use vermouth that’s been sitting in the back of their cupboard for years,” she says. “[It’s] a wine-based product. It should be stored as wine. That’s why it tastes terrible after a month.”

Vermouth is a fortified wine, not a spirit, so its flavor changes dramatically once it is exposed to air. Start treating vermouth as you do wine, and you’ll probably enjoy it much more.

Queen is the creator of a sweet Italian house vermouth at Monello in Little Italy, which has been garnering national as well as local attention. The beautiful amber-colored libation has a heady aroma and complex flavor with notes of citrus,

licorice and herbs, and lacks the medicinal harshness that many people dislike.

Queen’s a relatively new advocate of vermouth. It wasn’t until a recent backpacking expedition across Spain that she began to fully appreciate its complexity. At a sherry bar in Madrid, the owner offered her some of his family’s vermouth. She recalls, “He poured some vermouth straight from the barrel. I wasn’t sure about it.” After one sip, she declared, “This is amazing! The flavor just blew my mind.”

That’s exactly how I felt when I first tasted her vermouth at Monello, which took her a quarter of a year to perfect.

Vermouth Revisited

{Liquid Assets}

Local Vermouth Aims to Mix Up Libation’s Imageby Susan Russo

Photos by Chris Rov Costa

Page 30: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

28 edible San Diego winter 2013

Queen’s vermouth is exceptional—a concoction of 27 ingredients, including citrus, herbs, dried and fresh flowers, wormwood (a bitter, aromatic plant used in absinthe) and a few different kinds of bark.

Clearly a perfectionist, Queen was an obvious choice for Guido DiPietro, one of Monello’s co-owners, to hire as his mixologist. DiPietro was persistent in hiring Queen, though she initially declined the offer. He wanted someone who could “translate the experience of vermouth to Americans,” she says, and recalls, “I remember saying, ‘Why me? I’m a white kid from Ohio. I’ve never even been to Italy.’”

Intrigued and flattered by his request, Queen accepted the challenge, and began the three-month-long trial of making and testing.“The Negroni was my constant. I’d change the vermouth then try it in a Negroni. Guido and I would taste it, make adjustments, and do it over and over and over again,” says Queen.

She knew she had a winner when Guido’s mother-in-law, who was visiting from Italy, tasted the vermouth and declared, “It tastes like home.” Queen says, “That was my most flattering moment in my whole career—to have an Italian old-school grandmother say that.”

Queen says her vermouth recipe is so precious that “it’s written in three parts and

it’s bolted in a safe in an office in Bencotto.”

I ask Queen if she and Guido plan to retail the vermouth, and though she offers no details, she admits that they’ve talked about it and are hopeful.

Based on its popularity at Monello, it seems the timing is right to introduce vermouth as a drink worthy of its own. “[The vermouth] has gotten a huge cult following [at Monello]. I sell nine times more vermouth

than other liquor in the house,” she says. “Vermouth is king there.”

Valentina DiPietro adds, “There is no other [handcrafted] vermouth in San Diego or in California, that we know of. Except for a

place in New York City, we are really the only ones who make these quantities in the whole USA.”

Regardless of what happens in the future, San Diegans can be proud to be the home of Monello’s sweet Italian vermouth. If you haven’t tasted it before, Queen recommends ordering the Rock & Twist, their sweet vermouth on the rocks with a lemon twist. As for the many signature vermouth-based cocktails they offer, Queen says the Negroni is her favorite. You’ll find it on draft, “not to be trendy,” she says, “but so it would be consistent no matter which bartender you get it from.” Earthy and mildly bitter, it’s a tongue-tingling, assertive cocktail. D

Susan Russo is a freelance food and travel writer, author of The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches and monthly columnist for the San Diego Union-Tribune. She loves Montana, hiking, craft beer, purple colored produce and spoiling her nieces. Connect with her on Twitter @Susan_Russo or

drop her a line at [email protected]

Monello is located at 750 W. Fir St., Suite 102-B in Little Italy. Visit them online at LoveMonello.com or call 619-501-0030.

Page 31: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

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Page 32: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

30 edible San Diego winter 2013

If you live in San Diego and travel to different cities around the country, it’s tempting to visit local farmers’

markets and compare ours to theirs. In my experience—going to markets in Los Angeles, New York, the Bay Area and North Carolina, for instance—we’re more than holding our own, thanks to four-season growing and exceptional farmers and artisan producers.

Except in one area: dairy. Yes, we have cheese booths and even a booth at the Hillcrest farmers’ market that sells milk, butter and ice cream, but it’s not local.

That ship has sailed. San Diego County has gone from a peak of more than 200 dairies, back when there was cheap imported feed to be had, down to just three. The only one remaining within the City of San Diego is Frank Konyn Dairy.

None of these three sell their milk locally. The Konyns’ herd of 700 Holsteins produces 6,500 gallons per day, which they sell to a co-op that makes Challenge Butter.

But Frank and Stacy Konyn are working on a plan to bring local and organic milk, butter and ice cream to San Diegans via farmers’ markets, perhaps Whole Foods, and their own facility near their property in the pastoral San Pasqual Valley.

The idea seems quixotic, but the Konyns are rooted in pragmatism. Dairy life is all they’ve known. The lanky six-foot-six-inch Frank is the son of Dutch immigrant dairy farmers, Frank and Marie D. Konyn, who started their first dairy in Rancho Santa Fe, where Fairbanks Ranch is today. In 1962, they built their current facility with land leased from the City and filled it with cows from various dairies then in Lakeside and Mission Valley.

“The cows would cross from the milk barn

to the pastures under Highway 8,” the younger Konyn recalls.

Frank’s father has passed away, but Marie Konyn still lives in the family house on a hill overlooking their sprawling acreage. Frank and Stacy live just over the hill with their 10-year-old daughter Kylie and young twins Kieara and Teo. Drive up to the dairy and you’ll see Kylie’s small herd of grass-fed Angus cattle at the entrance that she’s raising with the help of Jack Ford of TAJ Farms. She’s also raising turkeys and chickens, and helps with the family’s in vitro fertilization program for their cattle.

The Konyns’ survival skills have been tested over the years. “There’s no joy in being the last man standing,” sighs Konyn. “As the dairy industry shrinks, the supporting infrastructure leaves.” As monthly feed prices have soared to $300,000 and the collapse of the local dairy industry in turn led to the collapse of infrastructure that assisted in everything from machine repairs to culture-testing sick cows for infection,

Last Man Standing? Local Dairy Industry Is Down But Not Out

By Caron Golden

“ There’s no joy in being the last man standing. As the dairy industry shrinks, the supporting infrastructure leaves.”

Frank Konyn

Photos by Chris Rov Costa

Page 33: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 31

Opposite: Frank Konyn with Teo and Kieara. Below, clockwise from top: cattle being showered with recycled well water, Frank in organic pasture with harvested grass balls to the left, Kieara with Angus calf.

they’ve learned how to adjust, becoming self-sustaining in everything involved in the business.

And that includes finding new ways of doing business. The dairy farm itself is on 97 acres of leased land. This year they acquired an additional 140 acres that allows them to grow about 14% of their monthly feed—alfalfa, sorghum-sudan, Bermuda grass and, in winter, rye. The grass harvest is bundled by machine on the pastures into what look like giant white mozzarella balls. They buy the balance—leftover fruit from Walmart, brewery mash grains from Alesmith and Lightning, canola plant pulp, cottonseed, almond hulls, hay from high mountains in Nevada and wheat straw. Two nutritionists come by twice a month to consult on the varied diets needed by the cows, which are grouped by age, level of production and whether they’re pregnant or not.

“We focus on high production levels through solid nutrition and solid genetics, and we’re always striving for cow comfort,” Frank emphasizes.

Six years ago the Konyns launched a successful 13-acre composting facility they named San Pasqual Valley Soils that takes in manure and greens from large landscapers and the nearby San Diego Zoo Safari Park and converts it into compost.

“We take what was a liability and market it,” Frank says. “Fifty percent of the manure goes

to the community. Be Wise Ranch is one of our largest customers. If we’re not going to move, we have to adapt to survive.”

Part of the adaptation included addressing one of the major costs of farming in San Diego: water. The entire dairy, compost facility and farmland is supported entirely by well water since city water or purple-pipe recycled water isn’t available to them. The well water cools the refrigeration equipment for the milk, then it’s recycled to shower the cows prior

to milking, then recycled a third time to irrigate the pastures. Across from the barn is a large pond. The Konyns constructed it with grant money from the Natural Resources Conservation Service. It catches all the runoff and collects rain water, which is then pushed through sprinklers located in the pastures.

All this still wasn’t enough for the Konyns. Three years ago they concluded that they needed to start direct-marketing their product. After talking with a dairyman in Tulare about how he started marketing glass-bottled milk, the Konyns felt that they could be successful in San Diego’s larger,

locavore-enthralled market. But it would take time and a lot of planning.

Stacy, a former high school ag teacher who leads the area’s 4-H club, began research and became aware of the USDA’s Value-Added Producer Grant. It has two stages. The first is a $50,000 matching grant for a feasibility study and business plan. The second is a $300,000 matching grant that provides working capital.

In 2012, the dairy received the initial matching grant. “We’re now in the stage of creating a business plan,” says Stacy. “We did a survey of consumers in farmers’ markets and CSAs to learn their preferences and found they want milk and

“We focus on high production levels through solid nutrition and solid genetics, and we’re always striving for cow comfort,” Frank emphasizes.

Page 34: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

butter. Cheese is down on the list.”

The couple is scouting around for a processing building where they can make and sell the milk, butter and ice cream. And, they’re in the process of obtaining more farmland and getting organic pasture certification, which, Frank says, “will be completed well in advance of product hitting the shelves.

“We plan to purchase some organic certified Jersey cows to put on our pasture,” he adds. “They are beautiful animals that have a higher butterfat content to their milk for better-tasting butter and ice cream.”

At least one local expert is applauding their plan. “I think it’s a brilliant idea,” says Eric Larson, executive director of the San Diego County Farm Bureau. “It’s a missing link in this basket of local foods, which is another reason why there’s an opportunity for success. Redirect production and keep it local. People here are willing to pay for local. It has cachet.”

While the Konyns are eager to push forward, each milestone ahead of them needs to be addressed. Ideally, they’ll be putting product on shelves in the spring of 2015. “We feel that is a fairly reasonable goal we can accomplish,” says Frank. “We want it to be right, so it takes time. We have our name on it.” D

Caron Golden is an award-winning freelance writer and the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff. She writes the blog for Edible San Diego and has contributed to

Saveur, Culinatee, Sunset, the Los Angeles Times and many others.

32 edible San Diego winter 2013

“ We plan to purchase some organic certified Jersey cows to put on our pasture,” he adds. “They are beautiful animals that have a higher butterfat content to their milk for better-tasting butter and ice cream.”

Kylie feeds an Angus calf.

Page 35: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 33

Seasonal fruits & vegetables

Free-range eggsLocal honey

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Page 36: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

A Toast to the Harvest

{Kitchen Know How}

34 edible San Diego winter 2013

If you tend a garden of edibles, chances are you love those moments when bits of your harvest

show up on your plate. Well, put down that plate (just for a moment) and pick up a glass: Use some of that bounty to create locavore cocktails.

Yes, the hippest food-obsessed among us are adding “garden-to-glass” to their repertoire and examining their gardens in a whole new light. And don’t stop with bartender favorites like citrus and mojito mint. Start thinking rosemary and celery. Lemongrass and red bell peppers. Violet flowers and pears. Jalapeños and beets. If you can grow and eat it, chances are it’ll pair with at least one type of spirit.

Terra chef/owner Jeff Rossman has long been an advocate of farm-to-table cooking. Over the years, he discovered ideas for what he calls “farm to bar” that included intriguing infusions of herbs into spirits like vodka and rum. He says he’s also been inspired by the work of local Snake Oil Cocktail Co.

Practice PairingFrankie Thaheld is Snake Oil’s mixologist and also works as a mixologist at George’s California Modern. His experience at George’s, with its emphasis on local, seasonal produce, has focused his perspective.

“It’s more culinary based. I think from the food side and go backwards from food flavors,” he explains. “What spirit would go with strawberries or lemon verbena, for instance?”

At Polite Provisions, bartender Erick Castro likens produce-spirits pairings to food pairings—“but it’s more complex.” He’ll taste aged rum and seek out flavor notes like molasses, caramel and brown sugar. With gin, he finds floral and herbaceous flavors and aromas. In fact, he says, “Taste everything—gum, iced tea, chocolate. Analyze everything you put in your mouth to train your taste buds. Even Coke. Think about it. You get notes of caramel, baking spice and coffee.

“You want to break down spirits to their flavor essence, then match them with herbs, spices, fruit or vegetables,” he advises.

With that in mind, he creates pre-Prohibition-style cocktails with garden bounty that complement or challenge the essential flavors of the spirits. While he finds mint, basil and summer fruit a natural with gin, he might shake up conventions by pairing it with acidic lime juice. The bar’s Ocean Side cocktail shakes up London Dry Gin with fresh lime juice, organic mint, sea salt and celery bitters.

Enjoy Your Garden Bounty by the Glassful

By Caron GoldenPhotos by Chris Rov Costa

Page 37: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 35

“It hits every part of your taste buds,” Castro asserts.

Thaheld, too, likes to challenge taste buds. He adds grapefruit juice to a margarita to give it a bitter backbone, for instance. But, he reminds us, it’s all about balance.

“You want to balance the mixture before adding the liquor.”

Castro encourages home mixologists to think broadly to create unusual but satisfying drinks. Would you automatically pair Scotch with pineapple? Probably not. But, says Castro, “While it seems weird, it makes sense. We don’t think of Scotch as tropical or summery, but caramelize pineapple and it takes on the same smoky notes Scotch has.”

As winter closes in, Castro likes the idea of a winter punch made with cognac, pineapple, nutmeg and ginger. “I love a good punch. It’s a big hit here,” he says. “It’s perfect for communal drinking. I like it because it forces everybody to agree on something and creates a shared experience.”

Growing ChoicesThere are at least two approaches you can take with your garden-to-glass cocktails. One is straightforward, combining various fresh ingredients to create a drink. The other is to infuse spirits with different garden flavors. Since alcohol is a natural flavor extractor,

infusions can be an easy way to develop new flavor profiles for the selected spirit.

Castro hopes to develop a garden for Polite Provisions, which would include basil, mint, rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender and chiles.

Thaheld would add sage to the list.

“It’s great for winter,” he says. And in would go bell peppers, onion, corn (muddling brings out the starch for an intriguing mouthfeel), tomatoes, asparagus, celery, rhubarb and nopal verde.

“The vegetables can be pureéd to add unique flavors,” he says.

Thaheld suggests some of these candidates for infusing specific spirits:

Gin: cinnamon, prune, lemongrass, rosemary, saffron, sage, cilantro

Vodka: vanilla, wheatgrass, star anise, rosemary, jasmine, fennel

Bourbon: oregano, clove, red bell pepper, chicory

Rum: cayenne, violet flower, coffee

“You have to experiment with proportions and time,” he adds. “Mint gives off its essence more quickly while rosemary takes more time.”

continued on page 36

Snake Oil Goes to ColombiaSnake Oil Cocktail Co. is known locally for creating locavore cocktail programs for restaurants like Americana Del Mar and The Wellington, and for special events. Rushing off to Bogota, Colombia, to consult on a menu for a Tron-themed speakeasy bar called Wingz that also reflected Colombian produce and culture? It was a nine-day gig for co-founder Michael Esposito and mixologist Frankie Thaheld that turned into part archeology, part anthropology adventure.

“We had to dig into what people there are drinking and what’s available. We went to farmers’ markets and found fruits we’d never experienced before,” recalls Thaheld, who is Colombian. “One of the most amazing was lulo fruit. It’s very acidic and popular for juice. Think lemon and orange meet pineapple.”

“I felt we were doing a National Geographic expedition,” says Esposito. “It was crazy. We did cocktails using ingredients that people in the States have never even heard of. And we did a garden-to-glass program for the client using their own produce. Herbs and produce had never been brought into bars there. We may have been the first mixologists there to do that.”

Top to bottom: The Bad Lieutenant, Erick Castro, Frankie Thaheld.

Page 38: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

36 edible San Diego winter 2013

At Terra, infusions are part of the cocktail program. And the emphasis, says Rossman, is always on fresh and seasonal ingredients. So, depending on the time of year, you’ll find lemon basil vodka, honey walnut vodka, cranberry orange tequila, persimmon cinnamon rum and sage bourbon.

For persimmons, Rossman will cook the fruit in the alcohol, bringing it to a simmer, then turning off the heat and letting it steep for about three days before straining. He does this with quince as well and adds vodka to roasted beets.

Rossman also makes his own bitters. Terra’s citrus ginger bitters, he notes, takes about two weeks to sit. Rossman is now experimenting with herbs like tarragon and

rosemary for bitters, trying to identify the right amount to include.

Thaheld likes to add fruit to complement spirits in cocktails. “Don’t add too many herbs. They can dominate both the flavor and scent. Add fruit like cucumbers or blackberries to complement the spirits.”

“The American palate is changing,” he notes. “We’re shifting from crazy sweet cocktails to cocktails that have a wider, more mature flavor range. 2

Caron Golden is an award-winning freelance writer and the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff. She writes the blog for Edible San Diego and has contributed to Saveur, Culinatee, Sunset, the Los

Angeles Times and many others.

The Bad Lieutenant From Polite Provisions

Makes 1 cocktail

2 ounces gin 

¾ ounce fresh lime juice

½ ounce Velvet Falernum*

½ ounce simple syrup 

12 mint leaves

Pinch of fresh grated cinnamon 

Combine ingredients. Muddle, shake and strain on the rocks. 

Garnish with a sprig of mint

*Note Velvet Falernum is a Barbadian liqueur typically used to flavor Caribbean cocktails. It’s made from an infusion of spices and lime juice into sugar cane syrup and rum and can be purchased at most specialty liquor stores.

Terra BeetnikFrom Terra American Bistro

Serves 6

1 ½ ounces hibiscus-infused tequila

½ ounce fresh lime juice

Top with beet-meyer lemon shrub

Garnish with roasted beet cubes, shaved ginger and aloe spike

For the tequila:

12 ounces silver tequila

¼ cup dried hibiscus flowers

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

In a medium saucepot, heat tequila, sugar and hibiscus flowers to 100 degrees. Remove from heat and store in an airtight container for three days. Strain and reserve tequila for use.

For the beet-meyer lemon shrub:

2 ounces fresh roasted beet juice

4 ounces granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

2 meyer lemons (zest and juice)

1 cinnamon stick

Combine everything in a small saucepot and simmer until sugar dissolves. Strain into a glass jar and keep refrigerated for up to two weeks.

Rosemary NegroniFrom Frankie Thaheld of Snake Oil Cocktail Co.

Makes 1 cocktail

1¼ ounces rosemary-infused Tanqueray 10 Gin*

¾ ounce Campari

1 ounce Carpano Antica Vermouth

¼ segment Moro blood orange

Squeeze orange into mixing glass. Spear and set in chilled cocktail glass. Add liquors and shake with ice. Strain into glass.

*Rosemary-Infused Tanqueray 10 Gin

3 (10- to 12-inch) fresh stalks rosemary

1 (750 ml) bottle Tanqueray 10 Gin

Knead rosemary with hands and place into the bottle of gin. Recap bottle and spin a few times. Infuse for 4 days at room temperature. Strain out rosemary.

Page 39: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

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Page 40: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

38 edible San Diego winter 2013

Back in the winter of 2011, an Edible San Diego article concluded that if the 2012 Farm Bill wasn’t passed by

September 30, 2012, Congress could “temporarily extend the last farm bill to buy some time. Thus, the 2012 Farm Bill might actually become the 2013 Farm Bill.”

That’s exactly what happened. Unwilling to pass a new bill, Congress extended the previous bill, and the impassioned debate about the 2012 Farm Bill indeed became the debate about the 2013 Farm Bill.

It matters because the Farm Bill impacts every aspect of the food we eat—from subsidizing GMO corn and soybeans at the expense of local organic operations, to controlling junk food in school cafeterias, to influencing the nutritional health of food stamp recipients.

Readers of Edible San Diego, as advocates for

a more local, transparent and healthy food system, are exactly the kind of voters with the biggest stake in this debate. And our elected officials are letting us down by stalling around.

This past September 28, the House of Representatives voted “to approve a rule that combines the agriculture-only Farm Bill that passed in July with the nutrition measure approved earlier this month,” according to Dianna Zamora-Marroquin, press secretary for Rep. Juan Vargas. Vargas, who represents the San Diego’s 51st

Congressional District, sits on the House Agriculture Committee.

“That action sets the stage for House leaders to appoint conferees and begin negotiations with the Senate on a comprehensive new Farm Bill,” wrote Zamora-Marroquin. “There is not a specific date set for the conference, but it should be soon.”

Congress Lets Food System Reform Wither on the VineBy Vincent Rossi

Farm Bill in Limbo

Readers of Edible San Diego, as advocates for a more local, transparent and healthy food

system, are exactly the kind of voters with the biggest stake

in this debate.

Illus

trat

ion:

Dan

ae W

ilson

Page 41: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 39

As of September 30, the deadline for this year’s legislation, no new bill had passed.

As this issue went to press, further action on the Farm Bill was swallowed up by the federal government shutdown after the Senate rejected the House’s attempt to tie continued government funding to the repeal of the Affordable Care Act.

Few members of the San Diego agricultural community had expected a new Farm Bill by September 30. Back in August, when Eric Larsen, executive director of the San Diego County Farm Bureau, was asked about the stalemated Farm Bill, he replied, “Guaranteed that when you’re done writing, the status will have changed.”

In just six months, the House sliced out nutrition programs, historically a part of the Farm Bill for decades. By the end of September, they were working on putting them back.

San Diego County has often been on the short end of farm support programs because it produces mostly specialty crops. The U.S. Department of Agriculture defines specialty crops as “fruits and vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits and horticulture and nursery crops, including floriculture.” These are distinguished from commodity crops like wheat and soybeans, which past farm bills have strongly supported.

“You can find titles for specialty crops in farm legislation,” Larsen said, “but it’s not a headline grabber.” So as farm bills are being worked on, “we [San Diego growers] end up being spectators.”

Still, “Farm Bureaus in general say [whether or not to] pass the Farm Bill,” said Larsen. Besides support for specialty crops and pest exclusion issues, Larsen said another reason for supporting the farm bill was to promote programs supporting organic farmers. “We hope those [programs] stay strong and well-funded because that’s a growing segment of our economy.”

Brise Tencer is director of policy and programs at California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). She is also on the Organizational Council of the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (NSAC). These organizations have been part of an intense education campaign to secure support for organic farmers in farm legislation.

Tencer pointed out that the organic community’s efforts involve not only trying to get adequate funding in any new farm bill, but to maintain funding in any extensions of previous farm bills.

She said that the extension of last year’s farm bill had been a “simple extension,” that in fact “stranded” many programs of importance to

organic farmers without further funding. This applied to over 36 organic programs in the legislation, Tencer said.

One of the “stranded” programs was the National Organic Certification Cost Share Program. It partially offsets the costs of meeting organic certification requirements, which can be a barrier to entry into the field as well as an added burden during tough crop years, according to a CCOF fact sheet.

One program that did survive in the extension and, so far, in the proposed new farm bill is the Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP).

Tom Page can vouch for EQIP. He owns Page’s Organics, a four-acre organic farm in Ramona selling certified organic produce to retail customers and wholesale to stores like Jimbo’s...Naturally. EQIP helped him to build hoop houses—small, easily assembled greenhouses made of plastic and flexible piping. These structures retain solar radiation

longer, in effect extending growing seasons. EQIP also helped him convert to solar power in his farming operations.

“It’s not like a grant,” Page said. “We pay most of it and they pitch in to help us out.”

Page, who is also vice president of CCOF’s Pacific Southwest Chapter, was among delegations of farmers who visited Rep. Vargas and other members of the San Diego congressional

delegation both at their local offices and in Washington, DC, to educate them on the need to preserve and expand organic support programs.

As far as lobbying efforts go, Tencer said smaller growers hadn’t been well represented in past legislation, but things were improving.

“A significant number of California representatives [six] are now sitting on the House and Senate Agriculture Committees, which she considers a “recognition of the need to include specialty crops and level the playing field with conventional growers.”

What legislation will result? Stay tuned.

For updates, check the CCOF and NSAC websites, CCOF.org and SustainableAgriculture.net. D

Freelance writer Vincent Rossi is the author of three books on San Diego County history: From Field to Town, Valleys of Dreams and The Lost Town of Bernardo. He has also written for newspapers, magazines and online venues. With his wife Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books. His special interests are history, politics and culture.

San Diego County has often been on the short end of farm support programs because it produces mostly specialty crops. The U.S. Department of

Agriculture defines specialty crops as “fruits and vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits and horticulture

and nursery crops, including floriculture.”

Page 42: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

40 edible San Diego winter 2013

Tackling the Hunt for Food: A Guide, a Cookbook and a Memoir

{Edible Reads}

The Joy of Foraging: Gary Lincoff ’s Illustrated Guide to Finding, Harvesting and Enjoying a World of Food is dedicated to readers who hunger to harvest local, wild edible plants. Fully illustrated and just shy of 200 pages, Foraging is divided into four useful sections: the who and the what (mostly what not to eat); the where and when (best locations and times to forage); wild plant identification; and recipes. With a conversational tone and fully illustrated, Linkoff ’s how-to makes the exploration for food easy to swallow.

By Kristen Fogel

Ani’s Raw Food Essentials: Recipes and Techniques for Mastering the Art of Live

Food by nutritionist, health coach and TV host Ani

Phyo, is a go-to manual for raw food aficionados who aren’t willing to sacrifice taste. Phyo renders

the basics of raw food tools and techniques and then focuses on drinks, salads, soups, sandwiches and more. Her desserts are best,

however—the Coconut Cake with Nutella Hazelnut Sauce and the Lavender Ice Kream alone are worth the price of the book.

Want to get your animals in on the act? There’s even a section on “raw for dogs.”

Essayist Dayna Macy’s Ravenous: A Food Lover’s Journey from Obsession to Freedom is

vaguely reminiscent of Eat, Pray, Love. But instead of divorce being a catalyst for a yearlong

journey, out-of-control eating incites Macy’s. From New York to California, she seeks self-

acceptance by hunting down those who might unravel the reasons behind her cravings—an

olive farmer, a sausage maker, a chocolatier and a cheese maker. In this sometimes funny but overall

formulaic memoir, Macy also explores her own history to understand and explain her battle with food.

Want to cut to the chase? Readers might stave off the soul search and head for Weight Watchers, as Macy

ultimately does.

Page 43: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

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Page 44: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

I first became interested in water as an environmental issue in 1993. I was 13 and

I read William Ashworth’s Nor Any Drop to Drink. At that time water was virtually unknown as an issue, and it was an El Niño year to boot. My efforts to educate family and friends fell mostly on deaf ears. Since then I think we have all come to understand water as a fundamental socio-environmental challenge.

In the intervening years, amidst multiple droughts, I learned of the solar still; an ingenious technology that purifies water through evaporation. Solar stills mimic the water cycle we all learned about in second grade. Since first learning of their existence, I have often wondered if they couldn’t be put to use to solve some of our problems right here.

Fast-forward to several years ago, when Edible San Diego became aware of a local innovator putting this principle to work. Solar Rain Watery had just opened up a solar desalination plant in Valley Center. It appeared to be the first in San Diego, if not the U.S., or possibly the world. As Chief Physicist at ESD, I had to check it out.

Solar DesalinationSolar Rain was founded by a group of scientists, investors and company president BJ Kjaer. With a background in farming, Kjaer was motivated by the perennial water shortages of our region. He and his partners set out to solve this problem with the resources they had at hand: the sea, the sun, and some serious brains.

Traditional desalination plants use either reverse osmosis (RO) or distillation to convert seawater to freshwater. Plants that use photovoltaic cells to power these processes call themselves “solar desalination.” But compared to Solar Rain, this claim is mere gimmick.

Solar Rain employs direct solar desalination. Using the principle behind both the water cycle and solar stills, water is heated and evaporated directly by sunlight. The solar still dates back to ancient Greece and Persia, and matured steadily with our understanding of science and the invention of plastic. In the mid 20th century, the design was tweaked with the realization that water evaporates more easily (i.e., at lower temperature), in a low-pressure environment.

Solar Rain WateryThe sea, the sun, and some serious brains

By Matt Steiger

The final product coming from the solar rain tower.

42 edible San Diego winter 2013

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Page 45: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Though these ideas had been around and evolving for a long time, they were never implemented on a large scale until recently. In 2005 the Indian Government opened the world’s first large scale low-temperature thermal desalination (LTTD) plant. At that same time Solar Rain was building prototype systems right here in San Diego. Just a few years later they had opened what appears to be the first commercial LTTD plant in the world, certainly the first and only in San Diego.

The Dirty Side of DesalinationDesalination is plagued by two major problems; high-energy consumption and high salinity waste streams. The first arises from the massive amounts of energy required to pressurize and/or evaporate large quantities of water. The second stems from the concentrated brine left behind in the process. Normally desalination plants pump the concentrated brine out to sea, creating a localized zone of high salinity and a potential environmental nightmare. Solar Rain has worked diligently to address both.

The desalination process at Solar Rain uses the copious energy provided by the sun. No gas or electricity is needed to evaporate

the water and the incoming water is used to cool the water vapor inside the condenser. In this way waste heat is converted into usable energy. Not much electricity is used at all, except a little to pump water around and light the offices; and Solar Rain is in the process of upgrading to photovoltaics to power these as well.

As for waste stream, Solar Rain’s first line of defense is high efficiency. Their process is 83% efficient; for every 1000 gallons pumped in, 830 gallons of fresh water come out. The remaining brine is highly concentrated (having roughly six times the salinity of seawater). This goes to a secondary pool where it is evaporated with a solar powered fan. The salt is then collected, cleaned and sold to local restaurants in bulk. Solar Rain claims no waste stream! Seawater comes in and fresh water and sea salt come out.

Protecting the EnvironmentEvery aspect of Solar Rain’s business is guided by keeping the company environmentally friendly and local. The bottles, caps and labels are a relatively new kind of biodegradable plastic that is not corn based and non-GMO, and the

packaging is recycled cardboard. The bottles are square instead of round, which increases packing (and thus, shipping) efficiency by 20%. The plant was built, as much as possible, with local parts and labor.

When I visited Solar Rain I was thoroughly impressed by their innovation. The efficiency they have achieved is only through dogged determination to get all the details right. Their effort to eliminate their waste stream is commendable, and I hope they can continue to achieve

zero-waste as they scale up their operations. Their commitment to the environment is admirable, showing a top-to-bottom consideration of every step of the process.

In general, I am hard pressed to recommend people consume more bottled water. However, Solar Rain appears to be a good choice for those who do; the water is pure and the bottles are among the most recyclable out there. And there’s no reason Solar Rain needs to confine itself, long term, to the bottle. Kjaer hopes that large-scale systems could be built to supply small, dry municipalities. It’s my own opinion that if regulatory issues could be sorted out, he might even be able to connect right into the city supply line, much the same way wind and solar add on to the existing power grid.

Kjaer is hopeful that Solar Rain has the answer to San Diego’s water problems. “This technology could eventually turn Southern California into a water exporter”, he says. “All the water we need is right here.”

For more info, or to find a distributor, visit solarrainwatery.com. D

Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, urban farmer, forager, and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews, and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at thefoodlunatic.com, on twitter @foodlunatic, or contact him directly at steigey “at” gmail.

BJ Kajer with salt byproduct. The solar rain tower is behind him and the solar cells are to the right.

Bottles are biodegradable and square to reduce packaging by increasing packing efficiency.

winter 2013 edible San Diego 43

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Phot

o: M

att S

teig

er

Page 46: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

44 edible San Diego winter 2013

Phot

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ta

Life feels better when you have something fermenting.

At least it seems so to me, since I started homebrewing a few years ago. But while making beer is fun and rewarding, it has made me wonder about the greater world of fermentation. I began playing around with ciders, meads and even weird fruit wines.

Anyone can buy grape juice, but I wanted to ferment fruits I had just lying around.

I started brewing ciders (from apple juice) and meads (from honey). I even began foraging wild fruits to ferment. I found that with some simple gear and a bit of pluck, it’s easy to brew these “country wines,” and the results are unique and often fantastic.

Here’s how to get started on your own.

Firstly, understand the basic principle of fermentation: Yeast converts sugar to ethanol. Wine is primarily defined by what

the yeast leaves behind. Complex sugars, acids and trace elements are not fermented, but remain to lend body, sweetness, tartness, bitterness and flavor. The right balance is particularly key to a great beverage.

Secondly, you’ll need to gear up. You will need at least one (but preferably three) fermentation vessels. I recommend a six-gallon wine bucket and a five and six-gallon carboy. You will need a syphoning kit to transfer (rack) the fluid, a refractometer and hydrometer for measuring alcohol content, some bottles and some way of stopping them up (beer bottles for carbonated drinks and wine bottles for still).

Lastly, you will need Star San or some other sanitizer to sanitize anything that touches your brew, at any stage. All this can be

Fringe Fermentation: Cider, Mead and Country Wine Concoctions

By Matt Steiger

Page 47: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

obtained for as little as $150, if you shop around. Curds and Wine in Kearny Mesa is a great resource for gear and general fermentation knowledge.

Then you will have to design your recipe, specifically your fermentables, unfermentables and fermentors (yeast). Your unfermented wine is called “must” and you need five gallons of it. If you just want to ferment honey, it’s easy: one pound of honey in five gallons of must yields about 1% alcohol by volume (ABV).

If you’re using fruit and you can get five gallons of juice, you’re golden. More likely though, you’ll have 10–20 pounds of fruit. In that case, you can juice the fruit or leave it whole. Either way you’ll have to add water and sugar to round out the must. Determining how much sugar to add can get a bit technical; what follows is my best attempt to simplify the calculation.

Start by deciding on your desired percentage of ABV. For wine it’s usually 12%–15%, for beer 4%–8%. Weigh your fruit and call that number “W.” Next, measure the sugar content (Brix) of your fruit with the refractometer. To do so, juice a few fruits, mix, and put two or three drops in your refractometer; call that number “B.”

Now, we will assume that 12 pounds of fruit gives about one gallon of juice and one pound of sugar will yield 1% ABV. Then the pounds of sugar you need to add are calculated according to the Steiger equation.

You will find that fruit gives you frustratingly little fermentable sugar, unless you have massive quantities. Rather than get frustrated, however, think of it more as the fruit flavoring your wine, which is actually made of sugar or honey. Table sugar is cheap and leaves no flavor. Honey is expensive but leaves a marvelous floral sweetness. Choose which to use based on how you want your wine to taste. For subtle, light wines, use sugar; for more complex or heavier wines, go with honey.

When it comes to yeast, start with either White Labs Champagne Yeast for dry wines, or Lavlin K1-V1116 for sweeter wines. If heating your must during the process, wait until it’s about room

temperature to pitch (add) your yeast.

A few final notes: I add yeast nutrient (one teaspoon) to all wines, and I always use pectic enzyme (10 drops) when fruit is involved. Both help the yeast achieve optimal performance. When fermenting whole fruit, I use the bucket and a mesh bag, removing the bag of pulp after five to seven days.

With a wine-strength brew, I age it in the carboy for six to eight months, racking it into a clean container every couple months, and finally cork it into wine bottles. With a beer-strength brew I leave it in the carboy until clear, typically four to five weeks, then carbonate and cap it into beer bottles.

Below are few easy recipes that have yielded great results for me. D

Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, urban farmer, forager, and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews, and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at thefoodlunatic.com, on twitter @foodlunatic, or contact him directly at [email protected]

winter 2013 edible San Diego 45

Photo: Matt Steiger

Photo: Matt Steiger

Stone Fruit Melomel (Fruit Mead)

6 pounds apricots

6 pounds nectarines

5 pounds honey

K1-V1116 yeast

Dissolve honey in 1 gallon of 150° water and pour over mesh bag of fruit. Top with up to 5 gallons water. Carbonate and enjoy young.

Wild Elderberry Wine

15 pounds wild elderberries

5 pounds blackberries

10 pounds honey

K1-V1116 yeast

Boil berries in 2 gallons water, dissolve honey in warm water, then top up to 5 gallons. Ferment fruit in mesh bag. Bottle still and age 1–5 years.

Cider

5 gallons apple juice

White Labs English Cider Yeast

Flash-pasteurize at 150° for 1 minute or use raw juice. Carbonate and enjoy young.

Pomegranate Mead

15 pounds honey

¾ gallon of pomegranate juice (omit for pure mead)

White Labs Champagne Yeast

Dissolve honey in 1–2 gallons of warm (150°) water, then add cool water to 5 gallons. Add ½ teaspoon yeast nutrient each week for the first 3 weeks. Bottle still and age anywhere from 1–50 years.

Fresh apple juice flows from the press.

Elderberries are simmered to set desirable taste and color.

Page 48: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

46 edible San Diego winter 2013

Page 49: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

When Ballast Point started

brewing beer commercially in San Diego in 1996, they helped launch what was to become a veritable tsunami of craft brewing here. When they released their first bottle of gin in 2008, becoming Southern California’s first post-Prohibition distillery, they became the vanguard of yet another movement: craft distilling in San Diego County. Now, with a number of small distilleries opening, the local spirits scene is poised to make waves.

“It’s exciting to be at the forefront of a trend, like we were with craft brewing many years ago,” says Ballast Point co-founder and head brewer/distiller Yuseff Cherney. What started as a small hobby project using a homemade still in a disaffected corner of the brewery has blossomed into a full-scale self-sustaining business.

The Ballast Point spirits product line has expanded well beyond the initial offerings of Old Grove Gin, Fugu Vodka and Three Sheets White Rum. Over time, aged distillates have been released, beginning with the barrel-aged version of Three Sheets Rum, followed by Devil’s Share Single Malt Whiskey and, most recently, Devil’s Share Bourbon.

Other offerings are on the way, including spiced rum and a whimsical line of flavored vodkas dubbed the “Taco Shop Series” (flavors of Jamaica, Piña, Horchata and Habanero). There is also a newly released moonshine made from corn, malted barley and wheat.

Distillation owes as much to art as to science. The process was known to both Greeks and Chinese in the first and second centuries AD. During the Middle Ages, Arab scientists continued to experiment with the process, eventually contributing to the dissemination of knowledge about distillation techniques throughout Europe. Over the centuries, an aura of mystery grew up around the process. Distinctions regarding still materials and design, mash production, specific distillation techniques and aging practices evolved in various cultures and were jealously guarded, similar to the practices of alchemy centuries earlier. Distillers were seen as part artist, part scientist and part occultist.

“I definitely enjoy the creative aspects of distilling,” Cherney says. “I got into this first and foremost because it was a passion of mine. Coming to grips with the business aspects came later. It’s difficult for small distillers in California to make a living in the early stages. You need other income for the first five or six years.”

Being in the business of brewing beer certainly doesn’t hurt, since some of the equipment and raw

materials are common to both enterprises. With the quick-to-market nature of most brewed beverages, the longer lag time of spirits can be supported with the enhanced cash flow. Several other breweries in San Diego County have seized upon a similar business model.

Cherney is a strong supporter of the sense of community inherent in craft production.

“We all borrow stuff from each other and we all try to share knowledge and opportunity. Trying to get local craft spirits into the bars is like the Wild West. To be successful, we’re all going to need to work together to get the San Diego cocktail culture to embrace our products.”

This strategy certainly has been successful for the local craft beer movement. By working together to increase public awareness, local brewers have moved far and fast. Let’s hope that local distillers choose to follow the same path to commercial success.

A variety of Ballast Point spirits are available at local bars and liquor stores throughout San Diego County, including Polite Provisions, Blind Burro, Whole Foods Markets, Sessions Public, Prepkitchen, Raglan Public House, Oggi’s Pizza and Brewing, Leroy’s Kitchen and Lounge, Beaumont’s, Cowboy Star, Union Kitchen & Tap, Jsix, Searsucker, Kamikaze 7 Sushi, Mona Lisa Restaurant, and the Lodge at Torrey Pines. D

John Alongé is a popular writer and corporate speaker on the subjects of wine, craft beer and spirits. His latest book, The Wine Heretic’s Bible, offers “plain English advice for the casual wino.” For more information, visit WineHeretic.com

winter 2013 edible San Diego 47

Local Brewer Ups Ante with Line of Spirits

By John Alongé

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Page 50: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

48 edible San Diego winter 2013

Imagine a world where everybody drinks a glass of wine with dinner every night. This world is free from cork

taint and pretentious wine servers; here, your favorite wines are accessible and fairly priced. Please, allow yourself to dream with me of a world where wine is as easy to enjoy as beer.

This alternate reality exists all around us, contrary to what your wine experiences thus far might indicate. Visit any of the world’s historic wine regions—heck, go out to Triple B Ranches in Valley Center—and you’ll see that the closer you are to the source, the less pretense there is around the fruit of the vine.

I will never forget the moment when, as a student in Italy, I watched an old man fill a used two-liter Coca-Cola bottle from a wine barrel. Wine wasn’t about prestige for him; it was an essential part of each meal, an integral part of his life. He had no intention of watching it age for years or of hosting a wine tasting at his home. And when the bottle is once again empty? He goes back to his winemaker buddy up the street to top it right off again.

While this seems strange to many wine drinkers, it sure won’t surprise the beer crowd; growlers and kegs are status quo for those folks (including me, despite my affinity for the grape—they’re hardly mutually exclusive). Most prefer draught when they’re out at a bar or restaurant and refilling those take-home growlers is easy, with the growing number of breweries per capita in San Diego County.

Until recently American consumers have proven to be surprisingly change-averse when it comes to wine. We demand glass bottles and we expect natural corks—even though cork taint spoils an average of one bottle out of every case. When screw caps were introduced a decade or so ago the market fought back fiercely; it took drinkers a couple of years to realize that the new closures were there for their own

Pinot by the PintWine on Tap? We’ll Drink to That

By Aaron Epstein

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Page 51: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 49

protection and ease—not to mention the environmental impact of the now-outsized cork industry, which could occupy another article entirely.

So, now that we’re finally taking a step back from corks, why are we bothering to use traditional glass bottles at all? In San Diego you no longer have to. Even here, the shift away from traditional packaging has been bubbling below the surface for years. Thanks to the risks taken by a handful of local entrepreneurs, it’s finally beginning to pour through the cracks.

At their new facility in Escondido, husband and wife winemaking duo Chris Broomell and Alysha Stehly (of Vesper Vineyards and Stehleon Vineyards, respectively) offer local restaurants the opportunity to purchase wine in reusable kegs. Just as with beer, the producer owns the container and the restaurant pays only for the actual product. At the moment, there are no kegs for purchase in the market due to the high demand of their delicious wines; however, when their tasting room opens this autumn and their new releases are ready, several will be served on draught.

The biggest restaurant to open in Southern California in 2013—in more senses than one—Stone World Bistro & Gardens at Liberty Station in Point Loma has no less than 36 tap lines dedicated to wine. In order to serve high-quality wine at reasonable prices—as well as to stay consistent with its predominant beer theme—Stone has seriously invested in their keg system. They’ve even gone so far as to have their wines blended to their own specifications up in Napa—which is still pretty “local” by most standards.

For a delectable piece of the Old World, there’s also Kaiserhof Restaurant and Biergarten on Sunset Cliffs Boulevard in Ocean Beach. They’ve been there for more than 20 years—the whole time serving glasses of wine from taps that emerge from a barrelhead on the wall behind the bar.

(Their giant pretzel will change your life.)

There’s no reason wine on tap shouldn’t be available just as widely as beer. Locally minded winemakers like Chris and Alysha are pioneers, and the wine program at Stone brings home a national trend that began quietly but has only one direction to go.

So let’s help push it along. Next time you’re at a beer garden, ask for a glass of wine with that pretzel. D

Aaron Epstein is the Founder and Curator of the groundbreaking wine subscription service Le Metro - Wine. Underground (lemetrowine.com). He has been studying wine since before he could legally drink it and has traveled the world to work in almost every aspect of the wine industry. Aaron now lives in Ocean Beach with his wife Julia and their newborn son, Micah, and also writes “The Winedad,” (Winedad.com) a blog about his adventures in fatherhood (and wine). 

You can do this in Italy and France! Maybe we’ll be able to put our old soda bottles to good use one day too!

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Page 52: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Advertise in

and watch your business grow! For more information,

please contact Riley Davenport, publisher. 619-222-8257 • [email protected]

EVENTSCOLLABORATION KITCHENBring your own beer or wine and get ready for fun, great food and to learn about seafood from top San Diego chefs. These monthly events held on the warehouse floor always sell out and benefit San Diego children in need. Produced by Catalina Offshore Products and Specialty Produce. • facebook.com/collaborationkitchen

SUZIE’S FARM EVENTSWinter Solstice Breakfast, Sat, December 21, 5:30am to 9am. Suzie’s Winter Camp for kids grade K-5, Jan 6-10. A week of farm animals, field exploration and fun! Wellness Fair, Saturday, January 18, 10am-2pm. Meet and interact with local wellness professionals and practitioners. Year of the Green Horse Celebration, Sat, February 1. Rain Catchment Workshop with San Diego Sustainable Living Institute, Sat, February 15, 10am-1pm. Bread Making Workshop with Prager Bros, Artisan Breads, Sun, March 9, 9am-2pm. More information: suziesfarm.com

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDENGarden of Lights, December 7-23, 26-30, 100,000 lights illuminate the Garden for a magical holiday experience. Wagon rides, music, hot mulled wine & more! PAW Walk, February 22. (Check website event page for details.) sdbgarden.org

FARMS, FARMERS’ MARKETS & PRODUCE DISTRIBUTION SERVICESALPINE FARMERS’ MARKETNOW on Saturday, 9-2 in CVS prkg lot at Alpine Blvd & Tavern Rd. Locally grown produce, meat, fresh fish, bread, eggs, nuts, cheese, artisan foods, gifts, arts & crafts, flowers, plants, succulents and hot prepared food items, picnic tables, shade and live music. A fun family outing! Create the Habit—Alpine Farmers’ Market! 1347 Tavern Rd. • 619-743-4263 • alpinefarmersmarket.co

BLUE TURTLE PRODUCTIONS FARMERS’ MARKETSMira Mesa (Tue, 2:30-7; 2:30-6 winter-spring); State Street Farmers’ Market in Carlsbad Village (Wed, 3-6 winter); Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), and Leucadia (Paul Ecke Central School) (Sun, 10-2). Local, farm-fresh produce, seafood, meat, bread, flowers, specialty & artisan foods, hot prepared foods, arts & crafts and entertainment! 858-272-7054 • leucadia101.com

BRIAN’S FARMERS’ MARKETSWeekly markets: UTC at new location La Jolla Village Dr. and Genesee Ave. (Thur, 3-7); Golden Hill (Sat, 9:30-1:30) and Point Loma (Sun, 9:30-2:30). Unique farmers’ market CSA. EBT Market Bucks accepted. • 619-795-3363 • briansfarmersmarkets.com

DEL MAR FARMERS’ MARKETIn the Del Mar City Hall parking lot. Vendors offer fresh, local produce from the communities of Vista, Carlsbad, Riverside, Valley Center, Bonsall, Fallbrook and stonefruit from the San Joaquin Valley. Open 1-4 pm on Saturdays year round. 1050 Camino Del Mar • 858-342-5865 • delmarfarmersmarket.org

ENCINITAS STATION FARMERS’ MARKETAt the corner of E Street & Vulcan every Wednesdays, 5-8 May-Sept, 4-7 Oct-April. 40+ vendors sell local farm fresh produce, specialty meats and cheeses, flowers and artisan foods. Remember to bring your own reusable bags: no single-use plastic bags provided. • 760-688-8275 • encinitas101.com/

FARM FRESH TO YOUDelivers organic fruits and veggies to your door from their family farms in Capay and the Imperial Valley, Calif. (growing organic produce since 1976). Weekly, biweekly, every third or every fourth week deliveries. Unlike most CSAs, no commitment is required–cancel or suspend deliveries at any time. Customize your delivery by website, telephone or email. • 1-800-796-6009 • farmfreshtoyou.com

GO GREEN AGRICULTUREBeautiful, tasty and tender produce (lettuce, spinach and kale currently) hydroponically farmed in San Diego County with love and care. Harvested and packaged with the roots attached, which continue to provide the plants nutrients and keep them fresh longer. Delivered within hours of harvest. • [email protected] • (760) 634-2506 • gogreenagriculture.com

MARKETPLACE AT ALPINEMore than a nursery – a destination! Nestled among mature oaks in Alpine, this community marketplace has something for every shopper and is a great place to relax. Friday Night Farmers’ Market, 3-7pm, features local produce, food, live music, plants, soil amendments & unique items from local artists & crafters. 2442 Alpine Blvd. (next to Janet’s) • 619-301-5442

MOROCCO GOLD DATESRaw, organically and sustainably farmed Medjool dates are grown in the Imperial Valley and sold at San Diego farmers’ markets. Find them at these farmers’ markets: Santee (Wed); Little

www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com

50 edible San Diego winter 2013

{Resources & Advertisers}

Page 53: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

{Local Marketplace}Italy Mercato (Sat); Hillcrest (Sun). • 619-449-8427

NATURALLY TO YOUR DOORDelivers farm fresh organic or naturally grown fruits, vegetables, herbs and natural products direct from San Diego farms to your door. No commitments or start up fees. Order whenever you want and choose what goes in your box, or subscribe to weekly or biweekly deliveries. Ask about the Office Box for your business, gifting a box and gift certificates. • 858-946-6882 • naturallytoyourdoor.com

NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETSSundays 10:30-3:30 at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. Fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and herbs, eggs, honey, artisan foods, hot food and entertainment. Always a traditional farmers’ market experience. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • northsdfarmersmarket.com

SAN DIEGO COUNTY FARM BUREAU FARMERS’ MARKETSSan Diego County Farm Bureau sponsored weekly farmers’ markets: Linda Vista, 6900 Linda Vista Rd. (Thur, 2-7, and 2-6 in winter); City Heights, Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd (Sat, 9-1) and San Marcos on Restaurant Row, San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz (Sun, 10-2). WIC and EBT Market Bucks accepted. • 925-301-6081 • sdfarmbureau.org

SAN DIEGO PUBLIC MARKETPermanent spaces open soon. Great venue for weddings, parties and other gatherings large and small. Call for rental info or to apply for space, 619-233-3901, or email [email protected]. 1735 National Ave. near Petco Park • sdpublicmarket.com

SANTEE FARMERS’ MARKETWednesdays from 3-6:30 pm at the Pathway Center, corner of Carlton Hills Blvd and Mast Blvd. Fresh fruits and veggies from local growers, prepared foods ready to eat or take home, honey, olives, bread, dates, herbs & spices, crafts, gifts and more! WIC, EBT & CCs • 619-449-8427 • santeefarmersmarket.com

SD WEEKLY MARKETSPacific Beach (Tue, 2-7), Fishermen’s Farmers’ Market, (Wed, 3-7), North Park (Thu, 3-7), and Little Italy (Sat, 9-2). Cheese, pastured meats, local seafood, honey, fruit, vegetables, flowers, prepared foods and crafts. 619-233-3901 • sdweeklymarkets.com

SPECIALTY PRODUCEFreshly picked, organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local, from over a dozen farms each week. Great app for iPhone and Android with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.co

SUZIE’S FARMOrganic farm and CSA grows, sells and delivers USDA certified organic produce and micro greens to chefs 5 days a week, and to the public at many local farmers’ markets and through their CSA. Seasonal Tours with Lucila, and Second Saturday farm tours. Farm Stand open Tues, 3-7 & Sat, 10-2. 619-662-1780 • suziesfarm.com • 800-995-7776 • sungrownorganics.com

RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERINGA.R. VALENTIENExperience the art of fine dining in an elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Chef Jeff Jackson’s cooking is market driven and sesaonal with emphasis on the quality and freshness of foodstuffs. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com

ALCHEMYLight, healthy, sophisticated cultural fare, craft beer and cocktails. High-quality ingredients and local produce. 1503 30th Street, San Diego • 619-255-0616 • alchemysandiego.com

ANNEL & DREW’S KITCHENMobile catering service featuring locally grown, organic produce. Specializing in events, farmers markets and private parties. At Oceanside Sunset (Thur, 5-9) and Leucadia Farmers’ Market (Sun, 10-2) • 858-210-5094 • anneldrewskitchen.com

BEE GREEN VEGAN CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERYFresh, organic, nutrient dense meals and smoothies prepared with local ingredients by expert chefs and a Nutrition Coordinator for maximum benefits, flavor and variety. Events Catering, Individual Home Delivery, Office Lunch Delivery and Family Plans available. [email protected] • 858-243-1409 • beegreenworld.com

BELLAMY’S RESTAURANTBellamy’s offers California Modern Cuisine with French influences. Owner Gianina Pickens brings a unique menu designed to cater to her guest’s desires. Corporate Chef Patrick Ponsaty brings revolutionized French cuisine with his own distinct flourish in every dish. 417 West Grand Avenue, Escondido, CA 92025 • 760-747-5000 • bellamysdining.com

BIER GARDEN OF ENCINITASCasual open air environment. 32 Southern California microbrews. The best Bloody Marys in North County! From scratch, local and sustainable California coastal cuisine. Gluten-free and vegan menu options. Happy hour Mon-Fri, 4-6pm & all day Wed. Brunch Sat & Sun, 10-2. In the heart of historic, old Encinitas. 641 S Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas, 92024 • 760-632-2437

BISTRO WESTContemporary comfort food using the highest quality and freshest ingredients, much from their own 3-acre organic farm. Ask about the West Room for a party or meeting. 4960 Avenida Encinas, Carlsbad • 760-930-8008 • bistrowest.com

BLIND LADY ALE HOUSEA certified purveyor of honest pints. Local & craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza topped with fresh made mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • 619-255-2491 • blindladyalehouse.com

BURGER LOUNGEGreat tasting hamburgers made from healthy ingredients and sustainably raised, grassfed beef. The menu appeals to health and environmentally conscious diners, vegetarians and salad lovers. Seven locations in San Diego County: Kensington, Coronado,

winter 2013 edible San Diego 51

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Page 54: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Little Italy, Hillcrest, Gaslamp, La Jolla, Del Mar and soon to open in Carlsbad! • burgerlounge.com

CAFÉ MERLOTDine from the bounty of their micro farm at the Rancho Bernardo Winery. They plant, grow and cook every meal to order. Cooking classes, specialty events, culinary medicine! 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, Rancho Bernardo • 858-592-7785 • cafemerlot.com

CARNITAS SNACK SHACKSlow food inspired, pork-centric American cuisine and snacks. Poultry, produce, beer and bread are locally sourced. Niman Ranch beef and Vande Rose pork are sustainably raised. 2632 University Avenue, San Diego • 619-294-7675 • carnitassnackshack.com

GLASS DOORCasually sophisticated atmosphere atop Porto Vista Hotel with panoramic view of San Diego Bay. Seafood based menu (much locally sourced) prepared using techniques from Eastern Europe, Spain, Italy, France, Asia and Middle East. Craft cocktails & local microbrews. 1835 Columbia St. San Diego 92101 • glassdoorsd.com • 619-564-3755

HARNEY SUSHIThe most aggressive sustainability program of all Southern California restaurants. San Diegans’ perennial “best sushi” pick. Sushi made with sustainably harvested fish. 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • 619-295-3272, and 301 Mission Avenue, Oceanside • 760-967-1820 • harneysushi.com

JSIXChef Christian Graves consistently delights and surprises with his farm-to-table and boat-to-pan cooking using locally sourced ingredients and made-from-scratch methods. Great cocktails too! 616 J Street, San Diego • 619-531-8744 • jsixrestaurant.com

LA VILLAExperience wholesome, beautiful food and an enchanting dining experience in the heart of Little Italy featuring rustic Italian flavors made with ingredients from local farmers and fishermen. Chef Chris O’Donnell caters to those craving a truly intimate, local relationship with their food. 1646 India Street, San Diego • 619-255-5221 • lavillasd.com

MITCH’S SEAFOODCasual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego Sportfishing Fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com

RITUAL TAVERNHumanely raised natural Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes. Great wine and craft beer menu. Many vegetables and herbs grown in the patio seating area. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • 619-283-1720 • ritualtavern.com

SOLARE RISTORANTE & LOUNGEAuthentic Italian cuisine with focus on fresh and locally sourced ingredients: fresh made pasta, organic produce, wild-caught fish and hormone free meat. Large selection of wines, beers and craft cocktails. Happy hour Tuesday-Sunday, Tuesday wine specials, live jazz Thursdays. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma. • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

STARLITEDinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Cuisine that uses year-round local produce. Menu changes frequently to offer San Diego’s seasonal bounty. Wonderful Sunday Brunch! Great cocktails! 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • 619-358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com

TENDER GREENSOrganic classics and daily specials using the best of seasonal ingredients, local farms and artisan foods. Easy on the wallet. San Diego locations: 2400 Historic Decatur Road • 619-226-6254; 4545 La Jolla Village Dr. at UTC • 858-455-9395; and 120 West Broadway, Downtown San Diego • tendergreensfood.com

THE FISHERYSeafood market at the center of the restaurant. Chef Paul Arias’ menu is market driven and changes seasonally. Sustainably raised and wild caught fish and fresh, local produce. Try the 3-course Tuesday Tastings menu. 5040 Cass Street, San Diego • 858-272-9985 • thefishery.com

THE FLAVOR CHEFOrganic catering, meal delivery (weekly menu), public & private cooking classes and bone broth. Specializing in locally grown, organic foods, humanely raised meats and poultry, organic provisions and eco-friendly products. [email protected] • 760-685-2433 • theflavorchef.com

THE RED DOOR RESTAURANT AND WINE BARA casually elegant neighborhood hangout serving classic American comfort food. Organic produce sourced from their own ½-acre garden. If they can’t grow it themselves or buy it locally, humanely treated and sustainably raised, they don’t serve it. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com

THE WELLINGTON STEAK AND MARTINI LOUNGESultry, special and seductive, The Wellington is an intimate supper club in San Diego’s historic Mission Hills where the heritage of food is celebrated through fresh, responsibly grown and raised ingredients. Organic produce is sourced from their own ½-acre garden. Local seafood, humanely raised meat. 729 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6001• thewellingtonsd.com

TIGER! TIGER!Casual and comfortable. House baked breads, lots of excellent draught beer, salads, sandwiches, sausages and other hearty fare. Lunch served Fri– Sun. Back and front patios. Mondays are movie nights all summer long. 3025 El Cajon Blvd. • 619-987-0401 • tigertigertavern.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHENGlobally inspired cuisine with a healthy body of great flavors created by pairing popular trends with healthy living. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner, Dessert & Kids Menus. Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Road, Suite 394, San Diego • 619-810-2929 • foxrc.com/restaurants/true-food-kitchen/

WEST STEAK AND SEAFOODIntimate and distinctive fine dining restaurant fused with creative culinary team and a “farm to table” approach based on the 3+ acre farm in Carlsbad they share with Bistro West. Prime steaks, chops and seafood. Ask about the West Room for a party or meeting. 4980 Avenida Encinas, Carlsbad • 760-930-9100 • weststeakandseafood.com

52 edible San Diego winter 2013

Saturday 9am—2pmalpinefarmersmarket.com

619-743-42631347 Tavern Road, Alpine

Downtown Escondidoescogelato.com - 760.745.6500

Gelato, Coffee & Panini

{Local Marketplace}

Page 55: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

GARDEN RESOURCESGREEN THUMB SUPER GARDEN CENTERExcellent selection of organic and natural solutions for your edible garden, as well as trees and shrubs, flowers, succulents and everything you need to take care of them. Knowledgeable staff. Complete selection of home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd • (760) 744-3822 • supergarden.com

PLANT WORLD NURSERY ESCONDIDOFive acres of retail area offering a vast selection of shade and fruit trees, succulents and cactus, bedding, native and drought-tolerant plant materials, most grown on site. Knowledgeable, reliable staff. Easy access from Interstate 15 at Deer Springs Rd. exit. 26344 Mesa Rock Rd. Escondido, CA 92026 • 760-741-2144 • plantworldescondido.com

REVOLUTION LANDSCAPESpecializing in the design, installation and maintenance of edible gardens and eco-friendly, water wise landscapes for businesses and private residences. • 858-337-6944 • revolutionlandscape.com

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDENFour miles of garden trails on 37 acres, flowering trees, majestic palms, and the nation’s largest bamboo collection. Plants from all over the world thrive in a variety of microclimates. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas • 760-436-3036 • sdbgarden.org

URBAN PLANTATIONSDesign, installation and care of edible landscaping for your home and for corporate and assisted living gardens and Restaurant Supported Agriculture. Over 25 years experience providing home orchard care, garden coaching and permaculture solutions. [email protected] • (619) 563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

GROCERYJIMBO’S… NATURALLYA local, family owned grocery that provides the highest quality organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Jimbo’s is committed to supporting organic growing practices, and they are staunch supporters of the drive to label GMOs. Horton Plaza, Downtown SD. • 4S Ranch • Escondido • Carlsbad • Carmel Valley • jimbos.com

HEALTH & BEAUTYHOME & SOULHome & Soul is a mystical gift shop and wellness center. Enjoy incense, candles, essential oils, crystals and sterling jewelry. They offer Reiki, massage, skin care and chiropractic as well as Tarot, astrology and numerology readings. Workshops, meditation and other self-help subjects are offered. 229 E. Main St. El Cajon, CA 92020 • 619-440-4504 • homeandsoulonline.com

RADIANCE YOGA & THERAPEUTIC CENTERExperienced, caring teachers guide you through postures gradually at a comfortable yet challenging pace. Yoga, therapeutic yoga, personal fitness and massage therapy. Private and group classes daily. • 619-299-1443 • radyoga.com

RESTORATION HEALTH & WELLNESSTo give the body the tools, support and nutrition needed for restoration using advanced alternative remedies. 12865 Pointe Del Mar Way, #170, Del Mar (inside The Natural Path). Open Mon-Thur, 9-5 (closed 1-2:30 for lunch), Fri, 9-1. • 760-473-7766 • restorationhealthandwellness.com

THRIVE WELLNESSEducation, fitness training and lifestyle programs. Acupuncturists, massage therapists and other specialty doctors. 4080 Centre Street, Suite 202, San Diego • 619- 795-4422 • thrivewellness.com

HOME & GARDEN LIVINGMAKE GOODArt, clothing, jewelry and accessories handcrafted locally by San Diego and Tijuana artisans from found objects, precious metals, bicycle parts, vintage treasures and more. Open Tue-Fri, 12-7; Sat, 10-8; Sun, 10-5; closed Mondays. 2207 Fern St., San Diego • 619-563-4600 • themakegood.com

PROGRESSConscientious products for the home and garden, sourced from small design studios. Highest quality and accessible pricing. Open Mon-Thur, 10-7; Fri-Sat, 10-8; Sun, 12-5. 2225 30th Street, San Diego • 619-280-5501 • progresssouthpark.com

MEATDA-LE RANCHSustainably raised beef, lamb, pork, rabbit, chicken, turkey and other fowl at farmers’ markets. Custom order beef, pork and lamb by the side, half or quarter. Find Da-Le at Escondido (Tue), Palm Desert (Wed), North Park (Thur), Anza-Borrego (Fri), Little Italy, (Sat), Rancho Santa Fe, Solana Beach, (Sun) farmers’ markets • da-le-ranch.com/ • [email protected]

PETALUMA POULTRYWith hatchery, feed mill, farming and packaging operations throughout Sonoma County, Petaluma Poultry supplies free range, organic fed poultry products to the West Coast while reducing waste, perserving the environment, supporting employees’ comfort and efficiency, and contributing to the local economy. • petalumapoultry.com

TAJ FARMSA CSA/subscription farm in Valley Center selling pastured turkey, chicken, goat, pork, rabbit and beef. Dedicated to sustainable and responsible agriculture practices and creating safe and healthy food. • 760-670-7012 • tajfarms.net

THE MEATMENArtisan dry sausages made using an old world, cold fermentation process. Find MeatMen at Ocean Beach (Wed), La Mesa (Fri), Poway (Sat), Leucadia (Sun) and both Oceanside farmers’ markets (Thur) • 619-708-9849 • meatmenstore.com

TRUE PASTURE BEEFGrass fed beef CSA bred, born and raised by one family on two ranches in Southern and Central California. Treated humanely, never given grain or hormones, fed strict grass diet. 3 and 6 month contracts with auto-renew option. Go to truepasturebeef.com/how-it-works/ • truepasturebeef.com

winter 2013 edible San Diego 53

{Local Marketplace}

1503 30th Street in South Park619.255.0616

www.alchemysandiego.com

Cultural Fare & Cocktailsserved nightly

Brunch on Weekends

7283 Engineer Rd. Ste G • 800-409-3109 • teagallerie.com

Share the warmth of the season.

The gift of health begins with a

gift of loose-leaf teas.

Page 56: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

{Local Marketplace}ORGANIZATIONSFEEDING AMERICA SAN DIEGO Serving 73,000 children, families, and seniors a week, Feeding America San Diego is leading our community in the fight against hunger. 460,000 San Diegans don’t know where their next meal is coming from. Feeding America San Diego distributes fresh, nutritious food throughout our community. Help build a hunger-free and healthy community by making a gift. 97% of you donation directly funds hunger-relief programs in San Diego County. • 858-452-3663 • feedingamericasd.org

OXFAM A global organization working to right the wrongs of poverty, hunger and injustice. Oxfam saves lives, develops long-term solutions to poverty, and campaigns for social change. A BBB Accredited charity, meeting all 20 Standards for Charity Accountability. Donations are used to support of Oxfam America’s efforts around the world. oxfamamerica.org

SAN DIEGO COUNTY FARM BUREAULeading advocate for the farm community. Promotes economic viability of agriculture balanced with good stewardship of natural resources. Membership open to all, helps your local farmers and has many benefits. SDCFB sponsors three farmers’ markets: Linda Vista, Thur , 2-7; City Heights, Sat, 9-1; and San Marcos, Sun, 10-2. • 760-745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org

SLOW FOODSupporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Be a part of the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions. Three chapters: Slow Food San Diego, Slow Food Urban San Diego and Temecula Valley Slow Food. • slowfoodsandiego.net • slowfoodurbansandiego.org • temeculavalleyslowfood.org

PET CARE and LIVESTOCK SUPPLIESDEXTER’S DELISuppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. All are human-grade and chemical free. Two locations, 2508 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760-720-7507; and 1229 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858-792-3707 • dextersdeli.com

JENNIFER’S FEED & SUPPLYEverything for goats, chickens, turkeys, ducks, horses, cows, pigs, sheep, dogs, cats, birds and small animals. Private label wild bird mixes. Free animal nutrition seminars. Animal Ambassador Program. Organic chicken feed, Deliveries available. Check Facebook & website for live animal availability. 2101 Alpine Blvd, #B. 619-445-6044 • jennifersfeed.com

RESTAURANT SUPPLIESSPECIALTY PRODUCEFreshly picked, organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local, from over a dozen farms each week. Great app for iPhone and Android with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.co

SUN GROWNSungrown cultivates six categories of quality produce: micro-greens, micro-herbs, sprouts, micro-mixes, edible blossoms and specialty greens and shoots. Also available through Suzie’s Farm. Call to order : 800-995-7776 • fax 619-662-1779 • sungrownorganics.com

SCHOOLSA CHILD’S GARDEN OF THYMEProvides ideal early childhood experience for children from newborn to five years. Unique, garden-based programs founded on Waldorf Education principles and curriculum taught by highly experienced, Waldorf/LifeWays trained teachers. Programs feature a natural, home-based environment. 710 Eucalyptus St. Oceanside, CA 92054 • 760-820-2248, and 4771 Maple St. San Diego, CA 92105 • 858-356-2248 • achildsgardenofthyme.com

SEAFOODCATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTSRecently remodeled wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse open to public, with fresh sushi grade and other local fish and shellfish. Friday and Saturday cooking demos. Open M-F, 8-3; Sat, 8-2. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • 619-297-9797 • catalinaop.com

PACIFIC SHELLFISHLocally owned and operated for over 30 years. Fish, shrimp and lobster are wild caught unless specified otherwise. Seasonal and subject to availability. Inside The Fishery restaurant at 5040 Cass St. Pacific Beach • 858-272-9940 • fax 858- 272-9615 • thefishery.com

SPECIALTY RETAILERSCAFÉ VIRTUOSOCafé Virtuoso strives to procure, roast and deliver the best quality 100% Organic, Fair Trade and otherwise sustainably produced and purchased coffee and tea to their wholesale and retail customers. 1616 National Avenue, San Diego 92113 • 619-550-1830 • cafevirtuoso.com

CURDS AND WINEHome winemaking and cheese-making supplies. Large selection of wine kits. Make wine at the shop! Cheese-making cultures and equipment available and cheese-making demonstrations. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego •858-384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

ESCOGELATOJust off Grand Ave. in Escondido, EscoGelato’s luscious, super creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760-745-6500 • escogelato.com

ONE FRESH MEALSoups made from the freshest local organic produce available and without preservatives, made by hand daily and sold at Leucadia Farmers’ Market (FM) (Sun, 10-2); Pacific Beach Tuesday FM (Tues, 2-6:30); State Street Carlsbad FM (Wed, 3-7); Carmel Valley FM (Thur, 3:30-7); La Costa Canyon FM (Sat, 10-2). [email protected] • onefreshmeal.com

ORGANIC VALLEYOnce organic pioneers, now an industry leader. Organic Valley dairy products are made by family

54 edible San Diego winter 2013

PassportDinners.com | Passportdinnersblog.com

Throw an exciting themed dinner party!

Our DIY (do-it-yourself) adventure dinner party kits make it easy to take your guests on a culinary

journey to Morocco, Spain, India and more …

Our kits provide all the information, organic spices and organic dry ingredients you need to

throw an adventure dinner party.

Page 57: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

{Local Marketplace}

Assisting back-of-the-house staff with emergency medical needs

Like us on to find out more!

farmers in harmony with nature without antibiotics, synthetic hormones or pesticides. All Organic Valley dairy farms are pature-based, meaning a major protion of the cows’ diet comes from certified organic pasture. Find a store locator on the website: organicvalley.coop

PASSPORT DINNERS Unique adventure dinner party kits make it easy for you to taste the world, one country at a time. Starting at under $12, these DIY kits provide all the information, organic spices and organic dry ingredients you need to take you and your guests on a culinary journey to Morocco, Spain, India and more! • PassportDinners.com • Passportdinnersblog.com

SOLAR RAINA pure, great-tasting premium drinking water sourced from the ocean off San Diego, purified locally using a clean, renewable energy resource, and packaged in a biodegradable bottle. The only local bottled water packaged in biodegradable bottles. 760-751-8867 • solarrainwatery.com

TEA GALLERIETea retailer and wholesaler sourcing the world’s finest organic teas and botanicals from the classic to the rare and exotic. Over 75 teas to choose from to spice up your life and stimulate your senses. NEW location at 7283 Engineer Rd. on Kearny Mesa. 619-550-7423 • teagallerie.com

WINE & SPIRITSBERNARDO WINERYOldest family owned and operated winery in So Cal (since 1927). Tasting Room open Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat & Sun, 9-6. Village shops & studios open Tues-Sun, 10-5. Café Merlot open Tues-Thur, 10-3, Fri-Sun, 8:30-3. Farmers’ mkt Fridays, 9-12. Live music on the patio, Sundays 2-5. 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, San Diego 92128 • 858-487-1866 • bernardowinery.com

CHUPAROSA VINEYARDS100% estate grown zinfandel, sangiovese, cabernet franc and malbec wines. Picnics on the patio overlooking the vines are welcome. Warm up by the fireplace this winter—inside the new tasting room! Open Saturdays and Sundays from 11 to 5pm. 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, CA 92065 • 760-788-0059 • chuparosavineyards.com

EDWARDS VINEYARD & CELLARSFull bodied red wines served from a small, family-run outdoor tasting patio overlooking the vineyard. Their estate grown syrah, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon and blends showcase the quality of the Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area. Look for ‘Ramona Valley’ on their labels. 26502 Hwy 78, Ramona (toward Julian) • 760-788-6800• edwardswinery.com

MILAGRO FARM VINEYARDS & WINERYMilagro Farm Vineyards & Winery’s award winning, estate grown wines are complex, aromatic and world class. Recent winner of Best of Show Rose, Best of Class Sauvignon Blanc, and Gold and Silver medals at 2013 Winemaker Challenge. 18750 Littlepage Road, Ramona • 760-787-0738 • milagrofarmvineyards.com

RAMONA RANCH WINERYA boutique winery in the heart of the Ramona Valley with fine, handcrafted wines made from their own grapes and grapes from the Ramona AVA in small lots and sold exclusively at the winery. Open from noon to sunset on Saturdays and most Sundays, but please call to confirm. Picnics welcome. 23578 Hwy 78, Ramona, CA 92065 • 760-789-1622 • ramonaranch.net

ROADRUNNER RIDGE WINERYA small winery in North San Diego County where all wine is made from their estate grown grapes. Featuring fruit forward Rhone style wines. No wimpy wines here, they aim to make San Diego County the next great grape growing region in California! Proud of their 35 years of award winning wine making experience. • 760-731-7349 • roadrunnerridgewinery.com

STEHLEON VINEYARDSFrom the grapes to the winemaker, Stehleon Vineyards is San Diego grown. Stehleon wines blend four generations of agricultural heritage with local product and talent. • 760-741-1246 • StehleonVineyards.com

TITO’S HANDMADE VODKAProduced in Austin at the first and oldest legal distillery in Texas in small batches in an old fashioned pot still. Distilled six times to be savored by spirit connoisseurs and everyday drinkers alike. • titosvodka.com

TRIPLE B RANCHESA family business dedicated to producing San Diego’s finest wine grapes and premier estate wines. The wines embody the unique qualities of our region. • 760-749-1200 • triplebranches.com

VESPER VINEYARDSBrand new tasting room & winery NOW OPEN! Vesper Vineyards aims to expose wine drinkers to the diverse microclimates San Diego has to offer. They support local grapes and wine as well as all local agriculture and cuisine. 298 Enterprise St., Suite D, Escondido • 760-749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

VINAVANTI URBAN WINERY & TASTING ROOMA certified organic, urban winery focused on minimal-intervention winemaking using locally sourced grapes. No added sulfites. Unfiltered. Unoaked. Native fermentation. Naturally beautiful. 9550 Waples St. #115A, San Diego, CA 92121 • 877-484-6282 • Vinavanti.com

WOOF’N ROSE WINERYFeaturing award winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Their flagship wine is the Estate Cabernet Franc. Open by appointment most days. Call to allow them to give you good directions and to confirm availability. • 760-788-4818 • woofnrose.com

MEDIAKSDS JAZZ 88.3 FMJazzWeek Magazine’s Large Market Station of the Year in 2011. Full-time mainstream/traditional jazz radio station licensed to the San Diego Community College District. Non-commercial and non-profit, community supported real jazz radio! • jazz88.org

winter 2013 edible San Diego 55

Visit…Explore…ExperienceWe’re more than a nursery – we’re a destination! Nestled among mature oaks in the heart of Alpine, this community marketplace offers:• Handmade jewelry• Stone sculptures and carved wood statues• Handmade crafts and quilts

• Antiques and primatives • Birdhouses and willow furniture

• Friday Farmers’ Market 3:00 - 7:00 pm

2442 Alpine Boulevard, Alpine • 619.722.6169Wed-Sat, 8:30 am–5:30 pm | Sun, 8:30 am–3:30 pm

Page 58: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

56 edible San Diego winter 2013

FARMERS’ MARKETSMONDAY

Barona Open Air Market 1054 Barona Road Lakeside, CA 9204011 – 4 pm, winter619-347-3465

Escondido—Welk Resort #8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. off Old Hwy 3953 – 7 pm, year round760-651-3630

TUESDAY

Coronado 1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing2:30 – 6 pm760-741-3763

Escondido *Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia2:30 – 6 pm year round760-740-0602

Mira Mesa *Mira Mesa High School10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30 – 6 pm (3 – 7 pm summer)858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.4 – 8 pm (4 – 7 pm winter)619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday Bayard & Garnet2 – 7 pm619-233-3901

UCSD/La JollaUCSD Campus, Town Square at Gilman/Meyers10 am –2 pm (Sept to June)858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY

Encinitas Station Corner of E St. & Vulcan5 – 8 pm, May-Sept 4 – 7 pm, Oct-Apr760-651-3630

Fishermen’s Farmers’ Mkt.4900 North Harbor Dr.3 – 7 pm619-233-3901

Ocean Beach4900 block of Newport Ave.4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm)619-279-0032

Santee *#Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.Pathway Center3 – 6:30 pm winter619-449-8427

State Street in Carlsbad Village State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.3 – 6 pm (3 – 7 summer)858-272-7054

Temecula*40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am – 1 pm760-728-7343

Vista Main Street271 Main St. & Indiana Ave.4 pm – 8 pm760-224-9616

THURSDAY

Carmel Valley Canyon Crest Academy5951 Village Center Loop Rd.2:30 – sunset858-945-5560

Chula VistaCenter St. off Third Ave.3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fall/winter)619-422-1982

El Cajon # Prescott Promenade on East MainBtw Magnolia & Claydelle Aves.3 – 7 pm, year round619-641-7510, x-277

Horton Square San Diego225 Broadway & Broadway CircleClosed until March.760-741-3763

Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. btw Comstock & Ulric2 – 7 pm (2–6 winter hours)925-301-6081

North ParkCVS Pharmacy 3151 University & 32nd St.3 – 7 pm year round619-233-3901

Oceanside Market & Faire *Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 1019 am –1 pm619-440-5027

Oceanside SunsetTremont & Pier View Way5 – 9 pm 760-754-4512619-279-0032

SDSUCampanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library10 am – 3 pm (Sept to June)www.clube3.org

Seeds @ City Urban Farm14th & C Sts.San Diego City College9:30 – 11:30 am (Sept to June)[email protected]

University Town Center #La Jolla Village Dr. & Genesee Ave. 3 – 7 pm619-795-3363

FRIDAY

Borrego SpringsChristmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am – noon (October–May) 760-767-5555

Fallbrook 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 10 am – 2 pm760-390-9726

Imperial Beach *#Seacoast Dr. at Pier PlazaOct-Mar, 2 – 6 pm, Apr-Sep, 2 – 7:30 [email protected]

Kearny MesaNorth Island Credit Union pkg lot5898 Copley10:30 am – 1:30 pm858-272-7054

La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 2 – 6 pm 619-440-5027

Marketplace at Alpine 2442 Alpine Rd. next to Janet’s3 – 7 pm619-301-5442

Rancho BernardoBernardo Winery parking lot13330 Paseo del Verano Norte9 am – noon760-500-1709

SATURDAY

Alpine NEW DAY!1347 Tavern Rd. in CVS pkg lot9 – 2 pm619-743-4263

City Heights *!#On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St.9 am – 1 pm925-301-6081

Del Mar1050 Camino Del Mar1 – 4 pm858-342-5865

Golden Hill # B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts.9:30 am – 1:30 pm619-795-3363

La Costa Canyon La Costa Canyon High SchoolOne Maverick Way, Carlsbad10 am – 2 pm 760-580-0116

Little Italy MercatoDate St. (Kettner to Union)8 am – 2 pm619-233-3769

Pacific Beach4150 Mission Blvd.8 am – noon760-741-3763

Poway *Old Poway Park14134 Midland Rd. at Temple8 – 1 pm619-440-5027

Ramona *1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot)9 am–1 pm760-788-1924

Rancho San Diego 900 Rancho San Diego Pkwy.Cuyamaca College9 am – 2 pm 619-977-2011

Rincon’s Outdoor Market FIRST Saturday of each month34323 Valley Center Rd.9 am – 1 pmfacebook.com/RinconsOutdoorMarket

Scripps Ranch10380 Spring Canyon Rd. &Scripps Poway Parkway9 am – 1 pm858-586-7933

Seaside 2475 Grand Ave.Mission Bay High School10 am – 2 pm619-890-5666

Southeast San Diego # NEW DAY!4981 Market St. 3 – 6 pm619-262-2022

Temecula *Old Town TemeculaSixth & Front St.8 am – 12:30 pm760-728-7343

University Heights NEW!4100 Normal Street9 am – 1 pm760-500-7583

Vista *County Courthouse325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 788 am – 1 pm760-945-7425

SUNDAY

Gaslamp San Diego400 block of Third Ave.9 am – 1 pm619-279-0032

Hillcrest DMV parking lot3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.9 am – 2 pm619-237-1632

La Jolla Open AireLa Jolla Elem. SchoolGirard Ave. & Genter 9 am – 1 pm858-454-1699

Leucadia *Paul Ecke Central Elem. School185 Union St. & Vulcan St.10 am – 2 pm858-272-7054

Murrieta *Village Walk PlazaI-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/Kalmia9 am – 1 pm760-728-7343

North San Diego #Sikes Adobe Farmstead12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido10:30 am – 3:30 pm year round858-735-5311

Point Loma #Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans9:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-795-3363

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village16079 San Dieguito Rd.9 am – 1:30 pm 10 am – 2 pm fall/winter858-922-5135

San Marcos *# Restaurant Row, San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz10 am – 2 pm 925-301-6081

Solana Beach410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1 – 5 pm858-755-0444

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)

# Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks.

All San Diego County markets listed except Barona, Rincon, SDSU and Seeds @ City are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

Page 59: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

winter 2013 edible San Diego 57

Page 60: Edible San Diego - Winter 2013 issue

Giving young musicians a startis music to our ears.

MEMBER-SUPPORTED, COMMERCIAL-FREE, COMMUNITY RADIO

MORE THAN A RADIO STATION

Jazz 88.3’s Music Matters program provides instruments to San Diegoschool kids who might not otherwise be able to play music. This is just one of many ways Jazz 88.3 strives to be a contributing member of our community.

Your membership helps support this and other community programs.Become a member now. Jazz88.org