Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
Transcript of Eating Royally : Recipes And Remembrances From A Palace Kitchen
©2007DarrenMcGrady
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PublishedinNashville,Tennessee,byThomasNelson.ThomasNelsonisaregisteredtrademarkofThomasNelson,Inc.
FoodphotographybyLeonardoFrusteri.
PagedesignbyWalterPetrie.
ThomasNelson,Inc.,titlesmaybepurchasedinbulkforeducational,business,fund-raising,orsalespromotionaluse.Forinformation,[email protected].
ISBN978-1-4185-7436-9(eBook)
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataMcGrady,Darren,1962–Eatingroyally/DarrenMcGrady.p.cm.
Includesindex.ISBN978-1-4016-0321-21.McGrady,Darren,1962—2.Cooks—England—Biography.3.Windsor,Houseof.I.Title.
TX649.M44A32007641.5092—dc22[B]
20070013581112131415TSB109876
Idedicatethisbooktothememoryoftwospecialladies:TomyNanFlorrieLambertwhomeantsomuchtomeandwouldhavebeensoproudofthisbook,itwouldhavebeenshownallaroundthebingohall.AndofcoursetoPrincessDiana,whotaughtmetobehumbleandmademerealizethatwhilecharityworkcanbehard,itisthemostsatisfying,andthatgivingissomuchmorerewardingthantaking.
TableofContents
Preface
Opening
ARoyalIntroductionROYALTEASCONES
Chapter1TheRoyalYear
Chapter2BuckinghamPalace:WinterBallsandSummerTeasCROQUESMONSIEURGLENEAGLESPÂTÉCHILLEDTOMATOANDDILLMOUSSEWITHLOBSTERSTILTONANDPECANSABLÉSWITHGRILLEDPEARSHERBEDCREPESWITHGOATCHEESEANDMAPLESALMONSAUSAGEROLLSGAELICSTEAKSSPINACHSOUFFLÉSAGEDERBYDAUPHINOISEPOTATOESRASPBERRYICECREAMBATTENBURGCAKECHOCOLATEBISCUITCAKEEARLGREYTEACAKEJAMANDCREAMSWISSROLLRASPBERRYTARTLETSICEDCOFFEE
Chapter3WindsorCastle:RitesofSpringSPRINGASPARAGUSSOUPWITHDILL
CUCUMBERANDMINTMOUSSECHIVECREAMDRESSINGROASTSPRINGLEGOFLAMBBEEFWELLINGTONRACKOFLAMBWITHGARLIC,ROSEMARY,ANDJUNIPERSOLEMURATSALMONENCROÛTECHOUXÀLACHERBOURG(CABBAGEINACREAMYGARLICANDBACONSAUCE)ROASTEDSPRINGVEGETABLESNORMANDY-STYLEBOULANGÈREPOTATOESPETITPOISÀLAFRANÇAIS(FRENCH-STYLEPEAS)POMMESFONDANTESDILLCREAMSAUCEVANILLAICECREAMANDRASSYPUDDINGCREPESISLANDAISECOFFEEMOUSSEBRANDYSNAPSCRÈMEBRÛLÉEENGLISHPANCAKESCHOCOLATEPERFECTIONPIEROYALBIRTHDAYCAKEVANILLASUGARLEMONMILLE-FEUILLEWITHRHUBARBCOULISFRAMBOISESST.GEORGELEMONCHEESEMULBERRYGIN
Chapter4HMYBritannia:SummerontheHighSeas
FRENCHDRESSINGBEEFCARBONNADEEGGSDRUMKILBOCHEESESOUFFLÉPOJARSKISMITANETENDERLOINSTEAKSWITHSTILTONANDWALNUTCRUSTANDMUSHROOMCREAMSAUCEHADDOCKST.GERMAINLEMONREFRESHERCOLDLEMONSOUFFLÉTARTETATINYOGURTBRÛLÉEWITHMANGOANDPAPAYAJAMANDCREAMSPONGEISLEOFWIGHTPUDDING
Chapter5BalmoralCastle:AutumnintheHighlandsCURRIEDSALMONKEDGEREESALMONFISHCAKESPOACHEDEGGSENCROÛTEGRAVADLAXWITHSAUCESUEDOISECOTTAGEPIEMARINATEDPORTABELLAMUSHROOMSSTEAKDIANETENDERLOINSTEAKSSTUFFEDWITHBOURSINWITHAROSEMARY,BELLPEPPERSAUCEPOACHEDSALMONWITHDILLHOLLANDAISEGOUJONSOFSALMONWITHTYROLIENNESAUCEGLENFIDDICHCHOCOLATEMOUSSESCOTTISHTHISTLESHORTBREADSUMMERPUDDINGCRATHIECRUNCH
BREADANDBUTTERPUDDINGGREEKYOGURTANDSTRAWBERRYCHEESECAKEPEACHPRINCESSOLDENGLISHAPPLEPIEVEILEDFARMER’SDAUGHTERQUEENOFPUDDINGSBALMORALSTRAWBERRYJAM
Chapter6SandringhamHouse:ARoyalChristmasSTILTONFRITTERSWITHCREAMYWALNUTDRESSINGMASHEDPOTATOESROASTTURKEYBREADSAUCEPIQUANTDILLANDLIMESAUCECHICKENANDLEEKPIECURRIEDCHICKENPIESVENISONSTEWSUPREMEOFPHEASANTSTUFFEDWITHGOATCHEESELAMBRAAN(INDIANLEGOFLAMB)NAVARINOFLAMBWITHHERBEDDUMPLINGSIRISHSTEWBREASTOFPHEASANTWITHAPEARLBARLEY“RISOTTO”BEEFCURRY—ENGLISHSTYLEBASMATIRICEPILAFMINCEPIESTREACLETARTCHOCOLATEROULADE“YULELOG”TRADITIONALIRISHSODABREADCHRISTMASCAKEMULLEDWINE
BRANDYSAUCECHRISTMASPUDDINGSTEAMEDSYRUPSPONGEPUDDINGTRADITIONALENGLISHTRIFLE
Chapter7KensingtonPalace:AHomeforAllSeasonsCARROTANDEGGROULADEWITHMESCLUNSALADANDAMAPLEGINGERDRESSINGAVOCADOANDHEARTSOFPALMSALADFALLGREENSWITHROASTEDBEETS,CARAMELIZEDWALNUTS,ANDGOATCHEESEWITHWALNUTDRESSINGPRESSEDVEGETABLETERRINEPARSNIPANDAPPLESOUPWITHPARMESAN-CHIVEFOAMSTUFFEDBELLPEPPERSSPINACHANDREDPEPPERROULADEWITHSHAVEDPARMESANPEARANDWALNUTSALADWITHPARMESANBALSAMICDRESSINGLOBSTERTHERMIDORSMOKEDSALMONANDCRABMEATCUSTARDSCHILLEDTOMATOANDDILLMOUSSE(FAT-FREEVERSION)STUFFEDAUBERGINE(STUFFEDEGGPLANT)PUREEDHERBDRESSINGPOACHEDEGGSSUZETTEPEACHPANNACOTTAICEDPRALINEANDAMARETTOSOUFFLÉWITHPOACHEDPEAR
Index
Preface
It was while traveling around the country raising money to promote breastcancerawarenessthatIdecidedtowritethisbook.PeoplewerefascinatedbythelittleanecdotesItoldandthefoodIprepared,andtheywantedmore.Andsothisbookwasborn.Itwasonlyfitting,then,thatmyadvancefromthisbookshouldthereforegotocharity.IchosetheElizabethGlaserPediatricAIDSFoundationbecauseitlinkedtwoofPrincessDiana’scharitablegoals—childrenandAIDS.IwantedittobeabookthatWilliamandHarrycouldshowtotheirchildrenandsay,“Look,thisiswhatGrannyDianausedtoeatwhenwewereyourage.”
ThankyoutoCatherineDrayton—myliteraryagentuntilIscaredherbacktoAustralia—for believing there could be a good book here. I owe you an icecream. To Alexis Hurley and Eleanor Jackson of Inkwell Management forpickinguptheprojectreignsandguidingittofruition.Thankyoubothforyourpatience,support,advice,direction,andforconvincingmethatyoucan’twriteabook in two weeks. You are the best! Thanks to all at Thomas Nelson forcreatingabeautifulbook,especiallytoPamelaClementsforhavingfaithintheproject,andtoGeoffreyStoneandLoriJonesfortheirleadershipandtalentandfor humoring me and accommodating my requests as often as possible.Enormousthanks toSusanRuffinsforherenduranceanddiscipline inkeepingmeontrackandontime.WithoutyouIwouldstillbeonthefirstchapter.ThankyouforwritingmeexactlyasIspeak.YouhavesuchtalentandhumorandIamproudtohaveworkedwithyou.
Ahuge thank you toMr. andMrs.CharlesWyly Jr. for their support andkindnessoverthefouryearsittooktoputthisbooktogether.SpecialthankstoJillRowlettandLeeBaileyforthestunningEnglishantiquesilverandchinainthefoodshotsandwho,alongwithYvonneCrum,kneweveryonewhenitcameto “borrowing” the best props and equipment. To Abigail Davies and EddieDennisatNeimanMarcusforthebestselectionofEnglishchinaandcrystal.ToTerryVanWilsonandAngelaMaloneofPorthault for the finest linenoutsideBuckinghamPalace.ToCharlesandNellRobertsofLondonMarketantiquesforaddingtheBritishhistorytothefoodshotsandhelpingmakethemauthentic.ToLeoFrusteri for turningmy food intoworksof art,bellissimo!Leo,youare astar.
Mostimportantly,Iwanttothankmywife,Wendy,whohadtoputupwithmanyweekends,latenights,andholidayswhenIwasatthecomputerortestingrecipes. I love you and couldn’t have done this without your support andencouragement. And to Kelly, Lexie, and Harry, who toldmemany times to“askMiss Alexis if you can have a day off, Dad.”Well, now I can. To mymotherPaulinewhoinspiredmewithherowncookingandtomyfatherMichaelwhokeptdiggingdeepintohispocketwhileIwaslearning.AlsotomysiblingsChrisandSacha.Thankyouallforsupportingme,believinginme,andgivingmetheconfidencetofaceanychallenge.
—DarrenMcGrady
Warmest thankstoAlexisHurleyandEleanorJacksonatInkwellManagementforofferingmespaceinthekitchenandat thetable!Iwillalwaysbegrateful.Thankstoall thefolksatThomasNelsonPublishersincludingGeoffreyStone,PamelaClements,andLoriJones.Yourguidance,speed,andeditorialgenerosityaredeeplyappreciated.SpecialthankyoutoDarren,whosestaminainsloggingthroughdraft upondraft ensured thatwe got it just right andwhose kindness,goodspirits,andgracefulnaturemadeworkfeellikeplay.
ThankyoutoSeth,Theo,andOliviaforyourtremendousunderstandingandpatience. This could not have happened without your support. I love you allmore than I can ever express. A final thank you toMargaret Giganti, whosetalent,love,andwisdomwasgiventomewithoutreserve.Itnourishesmestill.
—SusanRuffins
Opening
HowdoyoubecomeacheftotheBritishroyalfamily?It’sseemsasifI’vejustbeenterriblyluckyand,infact,thatcertainlyplaysapart.Butaftertwenty-fiveyears in kitchens both grand andmodest, I remain passionate about food andcooking.AndatnotimemorethanwhenIwascookingfortheroyalfamily.
I began cooking at BuckinghamPalace shortly after themarriage of LadyDiana and Prince Charles and remained in royal service until the death ofPrincessDianain1997.DuringthattimeIrosetoseniorpastrychefatthepalaceand then to the prestigious position of Princess Diana’s private chef atKensingtonPalace.My fifteenyearsworking for the royal familywerekey inhelping me master mymétier. But the experience was ultimately much morethanjustexcellenttraining—itformedthepersonIamtoday.Irememberitallwith great affection, andwith PrincessDiana’s death, also a tinge of sadness.Thisbookiswrittenwithtwogoalsinmind:tosharewhatIhavelearnedandtosetdownmymemoriesinprint.
Today, as in the past, theword royalty connotes an anointed life, separateandapartfromthelivesofeverydaypeople.ButmyexperienceworkingfortheWindsorswasjusttheopposite.Infact,theroyalfamily,withtheirtraditionsandsense of service, made me feel British to the core. And underneath all theexternaltrappingsofmodernroyallife,theroyalhouseholdisreallyjustahomefora large,extendedfamilywith itsdailyroutines,styles,and tastes.Makenomistake,theirhousehold,likeyours,hasitsquirks.Butwhatmayseemquirkyattheoutsetoftenhasahistoricalandsymbolicunderpinning.Learningthismademyworkasachefallthericher.
It seems fitting in away that this book’s arrival coincides so closelywithQueen Elizabeth’s eightieth birthday and the tenth anniversary of PrincessDiana’s passing. Both of thesewomen affected the path ofmy life inways Icould never have foreseen. Both deeply impressed me with the notion thatalthough life may include personal passions and interests, it is fundamentallyaboutservicetowardothers.Thishasbeenanessential lessoninmyworkasachef, and I am grateful to have the opportunity to share my knowledge withothers.
When I think back, I realize that my becoming a chef was perhaps
preordained. Growing up in Newark, England, food was quite important, notonlyasasourceofpleasure,butalsoasasourceofincome.Mymumanddadboth worked outside the home, my mum as a chef in a local hotel inNottinghamshire.Whenyourmumisachef,you learnnot tobea fussyeater.Foodathomewasquiteabitmoreeclectic than inmostBritishhouseholds inthe seventies.My sister, brother, and Iwere introduced at an early age to notonly excellent traditionalBritish cooking, but also to French and Italian food.But,Ididn’tactuallycookmuchasachild.InsteadIwasanavideater.
The real reason I started cooking began in high school. I signed up for a“domesticscience”course(intheUSitwouldbecalledhomeeconomics).Thebestpartofitallwasthatyougottoeatwhatyoumade!Itwasasuperbsituationforagrowingboyoffifteenwhowasconstantlyhungry.
I learned all sorts of things, including some not on the syllabus. I madepastrydoughfortartsandalsofoundoutthat ifyoueat jamtartsstraightfromtheovenitwillresultinexcruciatingpainasthehotsugaradherestothetopofyourmouth.Ienjoyeditallandproudlyshowedoffmynewfoundskillstomyfamily.Mymum,whohas always enjoyeda life around food, encouragedmyearlyattempts.IthinksheknewthatIwouldenjoycooking.
Ihadalwaysbeenahands-onstudent,excellinginsubjectsthatallowedmetotranslateacademicideasviaaphysicalexperience.Inschool,cookingclasseswereoneofthefewplaceswheresuchanapproachtolearningwasacceptable.OtherwiseschoolwasquitetraditionallybookishandIoftenstruggled.Bothmyparents,blessthem,understoodthatIdidn’thavemuchofanacademicnature.Thethoughtofgoingontouniversityafterhighschoolwasdauntingforme.So,withmymum’sencouragement,Idecidedtoattendatwo-yearcateringcollegeafter graduating from high school at sixteen. The college was about twentyminutesfromhome,andbestofall,itwasfree.
Atthesametime,mymumthoughtalittlepracticalexperiencewasinorder.ThesummerbeforeIstartedcollegeshegotmeajobasadishwasheratthehotelwheresheworked.JohnBerry,awonderfulfellowwhorantheplace,hiredme.Asyoucanimagine,thedishwasheroccupiesthelowestrunginanyprofessionalkitchen,andIwastostartfromthebottomup.
Mystrategywastogetallthedirtydishesdoneearlyinmyshiftandthentospend the rest of the time watching all the chefs do their work. It was afascinatingplace.Itwasaclassichotelkitchen,whichmeansitwasverywellsetup.Therewas a cold station,where all the salads, sandwiches, andother coldbuffet disheswere prepared. Then therewas a sauce station, fish station, and
meat station. I rotatedmyself through the kitchen, always standing behind thechefs,tryingnottogetinanyone’swayandkeepingmyeyesopen.Ididn’twinanyawardsforexcellentdishwashing,butIdidmyjobwellandenjoyedbeinginaprofessionalkitchen.Itwasawonderfulintroduction.
Thatsummerexperiencegavemea leadoverall theotherstudentswhenIstartedcollege in the fall. Iwasoneof the fewstudentswhohadworked inaprofessionalkitchen.Icertainlyneededtraining, though,andmyfirstyearwasextremelybusywithnewlessons.Iworkedhard,andtheyearseemedtoflyby.
Mr. Berry and I had kept up an intermittent correspondence during thecourse of the year. He had left the hotel in Nottinghamshire and moved toBallathie House Hotel, a seventeenth-century country house in Perthshire,overlookingtheRiverTayinScotland.Attheendofmyfirstyear,heinvitedmetoScotlandtoworkfor thesummer.HethoughtIshowedpromiseandknewIcouldworkhard. Iwasexcited to travel for thesummerand tomoveup fromdishwashing!
AfteralltheseyearsIstillrecallhowwonderfulthatsummerwasforme.Ihadneverseeningredientslikethisbefore.Nothingfromacan!Gorgeouswholesalmonthatwewouldcook,smoke,orbrine.Wildgrouseandallsortsoflocalbirds.Gameinabundance.Whataluxuriousexperienceforakidofseventeen!Iworkedmytailoffthatsummer,andIreckonMr.Berrygothismoney’sworthoutofme.
Istartedtogainconfidenceinthekitchenandreturnedtoschoolinthefallready to put all my experience to good use. It did indeed pay off. I quicklymovedthroughtheranksofmyclassmatesandgraduatedatthetopofmyclass.One ofmy teachers, who had been especially pessimistic aboutmy prospectswhen I startedcollege,wasquite surprisedathowwell Iperformed. IwonderwhatshewouldthinknowifshelearnedthatIwentontocookfortheQueenofEnglandandPrincessDiana!
Thoughmany ofmy classmateswere perfectly content to remain close tohome,IknewIdidn’twanttostayinNewarkasalocalchef.MyexperienceinScotland had definitely piquedmy interest in learningwhat the outsideworldcouldoffer.ButwhereshouldIgo?London,ofcourse!
Mymum and dad were, as always, supportive, although I expect my dadwasn’t too pleased at the cost of setting his son up in London.Norweremybrotherandsisterthrilledwhentheyconsideredhowmycareerdreamsmightbesiphoning off funds which, no doubt, they could have put to good use. MygrandmotherwasquiteconvincedthatIwasheadingtowarddanger.Afterall,an
eighteen-year-oldladonhisowninLondonwouldclearlycometonogood.Nogoodatall.
TheonestipulationfrombothmyparentswasthatIneededtohaveatleasttheinklingofajobbeforeIleft.InitiallyIconsideredapplyingforajobintheRoyal Air Force. A good friend, Pete Males, spoke highly of his militarycookingexperience.HehadretiredasawarrantofficerandcametoClarendonCollegeasalecturertofinishhiscareer.ButitistheRAFandyoudohavetogothrough basic training. Plus, the commitmentwas awhopping fifteen years. Ijustwasn’tquitereadyforthat.
IntherestaurantkitchenattheSavoy
Theotherpossibilitywashotelwork.Ihadsomeexperience,ofcourse.Andin the year I graduated, 1980, themost elegant foodwas still being served inhotels inLondon. I applied for positionswith both theWaldorfHotel and theSavoy. I was accepted at both and decided on the Savoy. I traveled off toLondonconfidentthatIcouldhandlemyselfinanyculinarysituation.
Bydaytwo,myconfidencehadevaporated.Therewereseventychefsinthekitchen,andIwasthelastfellowonthelist.HowcouldIhavebeensopuffedup?Iknewnothing!AtleastthatwashowIfelt.ThefirstweekIjustwatchedthechefsandquakedinmyboots.ThenIwentbacktomylittlerentedroomandcried.
While the SavoyHotel was—and remains—a glamorous place, the SavoykitchenwasstraightoutofVictorianEngland.Therewereactuallycoalovensatsome stations. Pakistani kitchen helpers would come in with huge buckets ofcoalandfireuptheovens.Temperaturecontrolwaslimited.Therewasnoair-conditioning,and itwasablazinglyhotkitchen towork induring thesummer
monthsandonlytolerablywarminthewinter.The chefs ranged in age from eighteen to thirty-five andmany came from
France or Germany. It wasn’t uncommon for fistfights to break out amongcompetitivechefs.Thedayswerelong.Fifteen-toeighteen-hourshiftswerethenorm,andthereweremanytimesIcollapsedonthesubwayaftermyshiftandmissedmystop.Ihadneverbeensotiredinmylife.
Ableary-eyedMcGradyfamilyaftersleepingovernightontheMall.BrotherChrisistakingthephoto.
Inmy two years at the Savoy I rotated through a number of stations andadvancedtoapositionjustbelowchefdePartie.Itwasathoroughlyexhaustingand exhilarating experience. Many of the chefs I worked with remain goodfriends to this day.Butweallmovedon.You simply couldnot remain at theSavoyalongtime.Burnoutwasinevitable.
Toward the endofmy secondyear,Londonwas franticallybusyprimpingforaroyalwedding.In1982PrinceCharleswedLadyDianaSpencerinoneofthemostlavishroyalweddingsinhistory.Mymumwasquitefondoftheroyalfamily,andsheandmydaddecidedtocomedowntoLondonandcampoutontheMallinhopesofgettingaglimpseofLadyDi.Ijoinedthem.IwasalreadythinkingofmovingoutoftheSavoykitchensandconsideringmynextstep.AsIwatchedtheroyalentouragepassonitswaytoSt.Paul’sCathedralIwonderedhowanewaddresswouldlookonmyresume.BuckinghamPalace,forexample?
ARoyalIntroduction
In England, to get a job working for the Queen carries a certain cachet eventodayand,asaresult,ishighlysoughtafterandquitecompetitive.IwasluckyinhavingclosetieswithaformerchefmatefromtheSavoywhohadmoveduptoBuckinghamPalace.NottoolongaftertheroyalweddingofPrinceCharlesandLadyDiana Spencer, chefMark Fromont invitedme in for a chat and a lookaround the kitchens. I very much liked what I saw. I thought about howinteresting itwouldbe tocook forkingsandqueensand the royal family.So,with a bit of bravado, I sent a letter expressing my interest in working atBuckingham Palace to the assistant master of the household, Mr. MichaelParker.
Soonafterward,Ireceivedaletterstampedwiththeroyalcrest,grantingmeaninterviewthefollowingweek.Well,Ifeltveryimportantthemorningofmyinterview when asked “Where to?” by the cabbie and being able to say,“BuckinghamPalace,side-doorentranceplease.”
Iwasdirectedintotheleftground-floorsideofthepalaceandintotheofficeofMr.Parker,averypropergentlemanwithaquintessentialupperclassBritishaccent.Hewasverydetailed inhisquestionsaboutmybackgroundandskills,butsinceMr.ParkerhadalsocomefromtheSavoy,healreadyknewagreatdealaboutmytraining.
I receivedanofferas juniorcookandwent toworkatBuckinghamPalaceseveralweekslater.
Working at Buckingham Palace is a “live in” job. There are wings ofdormitory-styleroomsforsinglemenandsinglewomeninthepalaceandlargerapartments in the Royal Mews for employees with families. Staff was alsohousedonthegroundsofWindsorCastleandHamptonCourt.Thechildrenwhogrow up within the palace walls often become palace employees. The royalfamilyembracesasociallydemocraticrelationshipwithitsemployees,providinghousing, health care, clothing, six weeks of vacation, and loyal long-termemployment.ThejokeisthatyouworkatBuckinghamPalaceeithertenminutesorfortyyears.Thedrawbacktoallthisisthatthepayisprettylousy.Nomatter,Iwasthrilled.
DuringthenextelevenyearsIworkedfortheQueenandtraveledaroundthe
world twice as part ofmy job. I saw theUS,Australia,NewZealand,Nepal,France, Italy, Cypress, and the Channel Islands. I spent extensive periods atother royal residences inEngland, includingBalmoralandSandringham. Ihadtheuniqueopportunitytoparticipateinalifethat—whilecertainlymodern—stillcarrieswithitarecognizablelinktotraditionsspanningonethousandyears.
The royal calendar is still set around the seasonsand traditionsestablishedthrough time and by successivemonarchies. There are the summermonths atBalmoral, Christmas at Sandringham, annual balls and charity events atBuckingham Palace, sailing on the HMY Britannia, state visits, and gardenparties.Theroyalfamilystilleatsseasonallyandwithmuchofthefoodsourcedfromitsownsignificantlandholdings.Theyaredevotedtogamecaughtonthegrounds, berries picked from their own bushes, and dairy products from theirownherds.
TheroyalcalendaralsodetailstheQueen’smovementsthroughouttheyear.She and the rest of the royal family are at various times in residence atBuckinghamPalace,SandringhamCastle,WindsorCastle,andBalmoralCastlewithadditionaltripstoScotlandandontheroyalyacht.
Thisallmakesforstaffingchallenges.Becausetheroyalfamilymovesfromplacetoplacesooften,therearehouseholdstoopenandcloseup,shipmentsofprovisionsfromonecastleorcountrytothenext,andpersonneltravelingtoandfroallthetime.Butallthismovementofpeopleandgoodshasbeenhoneddowntoascience.
BuckinghamPalace is not just the official London residence of theQueenand the royal entourage, but is also the administrative headquarters of themonarchy.Sothefullworkingsoftheroyalfamilyandthemonarchy’sactivitiesin theUKandabroadarecoordinated through thepalacewithquiteamilitarylevelofprecision.
That air of precision extends to every aspect of managing the royalhousehold. Two weeks after I began working, I was sent from London toBalmoral Castle where the royal family was vacationing. I was preppingvegetableswhen the head chef cameover and said, “Right.Now letme showyouhowtopreparetheQueen’scarrots.”Hethentookthreeverylargecarrots,peeled,trimmed,andtoppedthem.Heslicedthemlengthwiseandinhalfsoeachcarrotwasofequallength.Thecarrotswerethenplacedinawhitepaperbagandthebagwasfoldedshut.“There,”hesaid.“Thatishowyoudoit.”
“But Chef,” I asked, now totally bewildered, “aren’t they a bit large anddon’tweneedtocookthem?”
“Large?” His eyebrows shot up. “Of course not. They’ll be fine for thehorses.Anddon’tevercutthemanyshorterthanthatorshewillblameuswhenthedamnhorsebitesherfingers.”
TheQueen’sfootman—or“dogboy”ashewasknownaroundthepalace—picked up the carrots from the kitchen and placed them in a pocket of theQueen’sridingcoat.Aftereachride,shewouldfeedthemtoherhorse.IthinkitissafetosaythattheQueen’shorseshavenoideathatcarrotshaveaskin.
This regimented approach took getting used to. Cooking is a creativeendeavor, andmost chefs chafe atmaking the same dish over and over againunchanged. Imade thousandsof sconesduringmy timewith the royal family,and I had tomake sure that each batchwas exactly like the last one.Tobe asuccessful palace chef you must bring that professional discipline to the jobwhethercookingasingledinnerfortheQueen,anelegantmulticoursedinnerforahundred,oralas,asIdidmanytimes,amidmorningsnackforthehorses.
ROYALTEASCONES
SconeswerepartoftheQueen’sdailyteaservice.Theywereservedreligiouslyeachday,alternatingbetweenfruitsconesorplainscones.Thisroutinewassofixed that eachMondaymorning the head chefwould call the seniorweekendcheftofindoutwhat“flavor”tomake,eitherfruitorplain.
While theQueen insisted on them as part of her tea, I suspect she didn’tactuallylikescones.Isaythatbecauseshenever,ever,atethem.Instead,attheendofherdailytea,theQueenwouldtakeasconeandcrumbleitontothefloorforthecorgis.Itseemsthedogsquitelikedthem.
Don’tbeputoffthough.Thesesconesarereally,reallygood.Servedwarmwith lots of butter. theymake an absolutely tender, crumbly treat.When theycool, split them in half and fill with strawberry preserves, clotted cream, orwhippedcream.Youwillhavenoproblempolishingthemoff.
3¼cupsall-purposeflour½cupplus1tablespoonextra-finegranulatedsugar
4teaspoonsbakingpowder
1stick(½cup)unsaltedbutter,softened1egg,beaten¾cupto1¼cupsmilk1cupraisins(optional)
1beateneggyolkforglazing
1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Combinetheflour,sugar,andbakingpowderinalargebowl.Cutinthebutterandstiruntiltheflourmixtureresemblesfinebreadcrumbs.Makeawellinthecenterofthemixture,andaddthebeateneggandabout¾cupofmilk.Addtheraisinsnowifmakingafruitscone.Bringthemixturetogetherwithametalspoon,makingsureyoudon’tovermixandtoughenthedough.Ifthemixtureseemsdryandcrumbly,add
moreoftheremainingmilk,butadditgradually.Youwantlightlybounddoughthatisneithertoowetnortoodry.
2.Lightlydustacuttingboardwithflour,androlloutthedoughtoabout1inchthick.Then,usinga2-inchroundcookiecutter,cutoutabout16sconesandplacethemonanungreasedbakingsheetabout1inchapart.Brushthetopsofthesconeswiththebeateneggyolk.
3.Bakefor15to20minutes,oruntilsconesarelightlycolored.Servehotortransfersconestoacoolingrack.
MAKES16SCONES
CHAPTERONE
TheRoyalYear
The royalcalendar is set ayear inadvanceand isquitedetailed.This levelofadvance planning is only possible because there are certain activities that arerepeatedyearafteryearbytheQueenandtheroyalfamily.Inbroadstrokes,astandardcalendarlookslikethis:
LateDecemberuntilearlyFebruary:ChristmasandtheNewYearatSandringhamCastleFebruary:StatevisitsinlateFebruary.DuringthethirdweekastatebanquetforonehundredfiftypeopleisheldatBuckinghamPalace.
Marchtomid-May:WindsorCastle.TheQueen’sbirthdayisApril21andisalwayscelebratedatWindsor,asistheEasterholiday.TheRoyalWindsorHorseShowisheldduringthesecondweekofMay.
LateMaytomid-June:BuckinghamPalace.TheQueenattendstoaffairsofstate,includinginvestituresandstatevisits.InMay,theChelseaflowershowandtheanniversarycelebrationoftheQueen’sbirthdayareheld.TheDuke’sbirthdayisonthetenthofJune.
LateJune:WindsorCastleandacelebrationoftheRoyalAscothorseraces.LeavingWindsorCastle,theQueenspendsthelastweekofJuneinEdinburgh,Scotland,atHolyroodPalace.Agardenpartyandathistleluncharealwaysontheschedule.
July:GardenpartiesatBuckinghamPalaceEarlyAugust:AboardHMYBritanniaforregattaracingandsailing
amongtheWesternIsles.AugustuntilearlyOctober:VacationatBalmoralCastleinthe
highlandsofScotlandNovember:BuckinghamPalaceandalargeannualreceptionfortheDiplomaticCorpswithasmanyasfifteenhundredpeopleinattendanceEarlyDecember:BuckinghamPalaceforstatevisitsandbanquets
Asachef, I tend toassociate the royal residenceswithseasonsandfood. IthinkofBuckinghamPalaceastheworkadaylocationduringlatefallandwinter,aswellasearlysummer.Tomethepalaceconjuresupimagesofheartystews,refined banquets, private lunches and dinner parties, and large summer teaparties.
SandringhammeansChristmasandEnglishtrifle,chocolateYulelog,pâtés,and terrines.Sandringhamalsohas awonderful fruit farmwithnearly seventyacresofamazingapples—LaxtonsFortunes,Cox’s,andBramleys—whichmakethebestapplepies.
WindsorCastle is linkedwith thearrivalofspringandearly lettuces,peas,asparagus,andrhubarbreadytoharvest.
Balmoral is forever associatedwith high summer holidays, ice cream, andberrypicking.Thegardensare fullof raspberries, strawberries,gooseberries—red and green—and frais de bois, which are little woodland strawberries thatonlyneed a jugof heavy creamand a bowl of caster sugar to grace the royaltables.
Queen’smenu
QueenMother’smenu
DukeofEdinburgh’smenu
PrinceCharles’smenu
PrinceAndrew’smenu
PrincessDianna’smenu
CHAPTERTWO
BuckinghamPalaceWinterBallsandSummerTeas
BuckinghamPalaceisoneoftheworld’smostfamousbuildings.Morethanfiftythousandpeoplewalk through its doors eachyear to attendbanquets, lunches,dinners, receptions, and royal garden parties. It is an official residence ofHerMajesty,QueenElizabethII,andshespendsaboutthirtyweeksthereeachyear.It also is the central hub of royal administration, supporting the day-to-dayactivitiesanddutiesoftheQueenandherfamily,nomatterwheretheymightbe.The palace is the venue formany royal ceremonies, including state visits andinvestitures,andisusedregularlybytheQueenandfamilyforofficialandstateentertaining.
Themostactive timesatBuckinghamPalaceare lateFebruaryandMarch,July,November,andthefirstpartofDecember.InthesummertheQueenhostsgarden parties on the palace grounds and in the winter the palace becomes aglitteringbackdropforstatevisitsandreceptions.
Thechefsintheroyalkitchenssupportallofthisactivityaswellastheday-today feedingof the royal familyandasmanyas threehundred full-timestaffemployees. Located on the ground floor, the kitchen has beenmodernized byQueen Elizabeth.While it’s not the cutting-edge kitchen youwould find in atopnotchhotel,itiscertainlymorethanadequatetomeetthepalace’sneeds.Asa result of modernizing the kitchen, the enormous number of cooks requiredduring Queen Victoria’s time (as many as sixty-five if it was a large statebanquet)isnolongernecessary.
Today, if theQueen is in residence, there are usually around ten chefs ondutyintheroyalkitchen.Notthatsheneedstenchefstocookdinnerforher.ItisjustthatthenumberofstaffandsupportpersonnelincreaseswherevertheQueengoes and unfortunately they regularly get hungry. Buckingham Palace has abrigadeoftwentychefs,andthesechefsprovideround-the-clockserviceatallofthe royal residences throughout thecountry,orabroad,wheneveramemberoftheroyalfamilyisinresidenceatthatlocation.Likeahotel,BuckinghamPalaceneverreallycloses.
OnmywaytohuntforwildmushroomsonBalmoralCastlegrounds
Theroyalpalatehasn’tchangedmucheventhoughEnglandhasgrownmoreculturallydiverse.Although thePrincesWilliamandHarrycountpizzaamongtheirfavoritefoods,theyalsoadoregame,roasts,andtypicalBritishfoodsuchascottagepie.PrinceCharlesisaveryhealth-consciouseaterandenjoyswholegrains,organicvegetables,andsimplypreparedfishandmeats.Infact,heoncebroughtAntonioCarluccio,awell-knownItaliancookinLondon,toBalmoraltosearch for andbottlewildmushrooms.Carluccio iswellknownasanamateurmycologist,andthroughhimIlearnedtoidentifyandusecèpes,knowninItalyas“porcinimushrooms.” IquicklyunderstoodwhatPrinceCharleshadknownforalongtime:Balmoralisanabsolutetreasuretroveofwildmushrooms.
Unfortunately for Prince Charles, the Queen’s head chef, Peter Page, alsoknew that cèpes grew abundantly on the property, and he was adamant theprince’schefswerenotgoingtotakethem.Heorganizedmushroomraidsacrossthe estate before PrinceCharles’s entourage arrived atBalmoral. The prince’schefsweremore than a little irritated.Ohwell, chalk one up for theQueen’smen, I thought.We choppedmushrooms up to use in soup and used them asgarnishesforallthewonderfulgameontheestate.
If I had to define the style of royal British cuisine, I would be forced toacknowledge that classical French influences are still verymuch in evidence,especiallyforstatebanquetsandballs.ThisispartiallybecauseQueenElizabethhasthefinalsayonallmenus,andthefoodatBuckinghamPalacereflectsherpreferences.
FromKitchentoTable
Distanceswithinthepalacetakesomegettingusedto.Infact,thekitchenislocatedafullmileandaquarterawayandseveralfloorsundertheQueen’sdiningrooms.So,gettinghot food to its finaldestinationhasalwaysbeenan issue. The current method for transporting food from one end of thepalacetotheotheristheuseofheatedtrolleysthatarerolledquicklyfromthekitchentotheirfinaldestination.Thetrolleysholdcoveredsilverdishesoutfittedwithanextrawaterbathbeneathtokeepfoodwarm.
It is thefootmen’s job to transportmealsaround thepalace; theyhavetheir routesmappedout.Forexample, if theyaredeliveringameal to theQueen, the footmen will take an L-shaped route from the kitchen to the
Queen’sprivateelevator.Thiselevatorismadeavailableduringmealtimesforthesolepurposeofgettingthefoodtoherquickly.
Oddlyenough, sometimes the food isn’t all located in the sameplace.Forexample,ifPrinceEdwardwantsasimplemealofscrambledeggsandtoast, the footman picks up the eggsmade in the royal kitchen and then,aboutonehundredyardsdownthecorridor,hastopickupthetoastmadeinthe coffee room kitchen. The military execution of it all would bring tomindagreatMontyPythonsketch.
ThoughmealsatBuckinghamPalacecanbesimple,therawingredientsarealwaysfirstrate.Inadditiontoamazinggameandfish,whichtheroyalestatesprovide directly, the palace maintains special long-term relationships withpurveyors who provide goods at a discounted price to the royal family inexchangeforthe“royalwarrant.”Theroyalwarrantistheroyalsealandcanbeexhibiteddirectlyonchosenpurveyors’packaging.It’sagreatmarketingtool.
One major purveyor is Hyams & Cockerton, who supplies fruit andvegetables for the royal family.Theyhandpickproduce for thepalace and thequality is incredible. Sogood, in fact, thatwhen the chefs have to packup totravel toBalmoral orSandringham, or even abroad,H&Cproduce is loadedalongwithourstandardsupplies.WeshippedquitealotoffoodtoBalmoralinparticular. Each day fresh supplies were dropped off at Buckingham Palace,checkedbythechefonduty,andthenreadiedfor thenightly trip toBalmoral.ThedeliveriesfromLondonwereanecessity.Afterall,youcouldneverserveanunripepeartotheroyaltable.
WhatWilltheQueenEat?
While the Queen does have the final say on what she wants to eat, shedoesn’tspendhertimescribblingupmenusandshoppinglists!WhenIwasatBuckinghamPalace,ChefPage,theheadchefatthetime,woulddevelopa list of menu suggestions each day to present to the Queen for herapproval.Page,aportlymanwholikedadrinkortwo,wasanendlessfontof information and talent. He had served the Queen for more than fortyyearsandwasoneoftheveryfewstaff that theQueenwouldcallbyfirstname.
Eachdayhewouldwritehis suggestionsdown in a red leather-boundbookwith“MenuRoyal”embossed ingoldon thecover.As soonasonebookwasfilled,itwassenttotheroyalarchivesandanewbookwassenttothe kitchen as a replacement.When Iwas the chef for PrincessDiana atKensingtonPalace,Iintendedtocontinuethe“MenuRoyal”tradition.Afterall, she had a menu book—all of the royals did—until she and PrinceCharlesseparated.PrincessDiana,however,objected.Shethoughtitwasawasteofmoneyandasked,“Whywouldanyoneinyears tocomewant toknowwhatIate?”InsteadIkeptplain,cheapnotebooksformyfilesandtothisdayIhaveheldontothelastone.
DAY-TO-DAYLIFEQueen Elizabeth really treats Buckingham Palace as “the office” and spendsmostofhertimethereasadutyratherthanbychoice.It isclearthatshecan’twait for Friday afternoon when she can head off to Windsor Castle for theweekend.
AtBuckinghamPalace, thedaily routine formeals is set:breakfastat9:00a.m., lunch promptly at 1:15 p.m., tea at 5:00 p.m., and dinner at 8:15 p.m.BreakfastisalmostnoworkforapalacechefastheQueenisquitehappywithtea and toast. Lunch and dinner are more elaborate, especially if guests areinvitedin.
Cookingmeals for royalty,evensimplemeals,connotesahighstandardofpreparationandservice.EvenifIhadtomakeasimplecoldlunch,itstillneededtobegracefullyandbeautifullypresented.Agoodexamplewasapopularfirstcourse dish of tomato and dill mousse with lobster. Princess Diana routinelyrequestedit,anditwasasdeliciousasitwaselegant.Therecipeisenrichedwithsourcream,heavycream,andmayonnaise.WhenImovedacrosstoKensingtonPalaceasDiana’schef,thismoussewasoneofthefirstrecipesIreworkedintoanonfatversion.Botharegood.
WhoFootstheBill?
Thecostofthemonarchyisbornebythestate.So,whileroyalentertainingmay be lavish, the day-to-day royal meals for family and staff are quite
simple. This trend toward simpler meals is partly a reflection ofcontemporaryBritishsociety,butisalsoinfluencedbyeconomics.Truthbetold, themodern royal family isonabudget.Thecostofmaintaining themonarchy was roughly one dollar per British citizen last year. That is agreat “deal” for the British if you consider how many tourists come toEngland to see Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle, and other royalattractions.Themonarchy todaybrings in significant tourismand a lot ofcash.
Theroyalfamily lovedall typesoffishdishes,aswellasstewandroastedvegetables.Wewouldservetheseoftenforsmalllunchesordinners.Aschefsintheroyalkitchens,ourculinarymantrawasthatthefoodshouldtastewonderful,lookbeautiful,beofsuperiorquality,andputguestsatease.
STATEVISITSANDSTATEBANQUETSThereareanumberofspecialeventsthathappeneachyearatBuckingham
Palace.Themostcomplexeventsarestatevisitsand the largestevent (besidesgardenparties)istheannualdiplomaticreception.
The goal of state visits is to help further political or economic solutionsbetween Great Britain and other countries, as well as to cement relationshipswith longtimeallies.Theyare an importantpolitical functionof themonarchyand are executedwith an eye tomodern comfort and a serving of royal style.WhenthePresidentoftheUnitedStatesmakesaroyalvisittoBritain,heandhisentourage aremetby theQueen and are transportedby royal carriage throughthestreetsofLondontoBuckinghamPalace.
Medalspresentedtomebyvisitingheadsofgovernmentatstatebanquets
At the palace the guests attend an arrival lunch that usually serves fifty tosixtypeople.Thatevening,aformalbanquetisheldandtheguestlistexpandstoincludedignitariesandbusinesspeople.Thedinnersare served inanenormousballroom with opulent silver or gold place settings and the meal typicallyincludesfiveorsixcourses.Whenthetablesarecompletelysetup,theballroomisaregalsight,perfectlyappropriateforaqueen’sdinner.
Statebanquetmenus
For state banquets, a chef really earns his stripes. Menus are carefullychosen,provisionssentbackiftheydon’tmeetthehigheststandards,andsaucesare tastedand retasted.Thegarnishesaloneareelaborateand time-consuming.For example, the banquet tables, when fully set, include large fruit baskets.“Basket” is a bit of a misnomer, since they are all highly decoratedMeissenchina,somefootedandsomenot.Fruithastobecarefullypicked,polished,andgently laid on the china. Even the fruit leaves are individually polished and
arranged.
Petitfourspastillageongiltplatesreadyforthestatebanquet
Often wemade pastillage dishes. These are a combination of egg whites,powderedsugar,andcornstarch,whichcanbemodeledintoallsortsofshapes.ThepastewouldsometimesbeformedintodelicatelittlebasketsforpetitfourswithaspunsugarBritishflagpoppedonthesideofthebasketandaflagfromthe visiting country on the other.They took an enormous amount of time andcare tomake.Usually I could retrieve a number of these after dinner to reuseagaininthefuture.Isayusually,becausethatwasnevertruewhentheFrenchvisited.Afterpolishingoffthepetitfours,theFrenchassumedthedishwasakintoanashtrayandtheywoulduseittostubouttheircigarettes.
Onastatevisit,eachguestwouldhaveasilverfruitbowl,aboxofchocolates(withtheribboncolorsoftheircountry),andsomecookiesplacedintheirroom.Themoreimportanttheywere,thebiggerthefruitbowlandchocolates.The
onesforthePresident’ssuitearefarleft.
State banquets did have their perks.After each banquet, theQueenwouldsendeachmemberofthestafftwominiaturebottlesofwhiskeyorgin.Itwasher
wayofsayingthankyou.Mindyou,shewaswise tosendthebottlesafter theevent.Givenhowstressfulstatebanquetswere,itwouldhavebeentootemptinghadwereceivedthebottlesbeforehand.
Asultan’sgifttotheQueen,valuedatover$500,000.Thedessertdishhadamarblebowlsetonthreegildedhorsesandwasdecoratedwithdiamonds,
rubies,sapphires,andemeralds.
Visitingheadsofstateoftengavegiftsaswell.Themostgenerousvisitors?Withoutadoubt,Arabheadsofstate. In truth, theyalsomadeusworkharder.Theybroughttheirownchefstoprovidehalalmeals,theyoftenaskedformealsatallhours,andwehad tomakecertain that specific foodswerebanned fromtheirchefs’workspace.Buttheywereverygenerous.Staffwaspickedtoreceivewatchesandbrooches,footmenweretippedthousandsofpoundsfortheirwork,andthekitchenwouldoftengetaboxofsaffronandmangoesfromthevisitingchef.
TheDiplomaticReceptionAnother annual event at Buckingham Palace is the diplomatic reception.
Each year the Queen hosts one such reception as a way to bring togetherdiplomatsandstafffromeveryembassyinLondon.Asmanyasfifteenhundredpeople typicallyattend,andeachguest isgreetedby theQueen.Now, imagineyouare theQueenandyouhave to sayhello to fifteenhundredpeoplebeforehavingastrongginanddubonnet.It’sarealworkout,believeme.
RoyalPolitesse
OthermembersoftheroyalfamilyoftenjointheQueenduringdiplomaticreceptions.PrincePhilipandPrinceCharlesareusuallyinattendance,andPrincess Diana often came as well. Even after the separation, PrincessDianawouldattendcertainBuckinghamPalace functions.Shedidn’t loveit,butshewasagoodtrouperallthesame.Once,aSaudiPrincecorneredher, extolling the virtues of different fruit in his country, especiallymangoes. Diana, at a loss for words, told him that indeed she lovedmangoes.Aweek later she luggedaboxofmangoes into thekitchenandploppedthemdowninfrontofme.
“Do you believe this,Darren?” she said. “Thatman sentme awholecrateofmangoesbecauseImentionedthatIlikethem.NexttimeIneedtomentionhowmuchIlikediamonds.”
Thechefsgetaworkouttoo.Craftingindividualcanapésforfifteenhundredis mind-boggling. Assuming six hors d’oeuvres per invited guest, we wouldmake about ten thousand canapés. Typically the hot canapés are much morepopular thanthecoldones.Irememberchuckingmoundsofcoldtomatoaspiccanapésdirectlyintothegarbageoneyear.TheuseofaspicisaholdoverfromtheVictorianerawhenjelliescouldbeusedtopreservefoodwithoutrequiringrefrigeration.Butmoderndignitariesareused tomodern food,and theywoulddevourStiltonandPecanSablewithPoachedPearorCroquesMonsieurswhilelobstertailspreservedinaspicwerereturnedtothekitchenuneaten.
TeatimeandGardenTeaPartiesTheQueenisespeciallyfondofteatime.IfIwasmakingteafortheQueenandPrince Philip, which was quite often, generally there would be two differenttypesofsandwicheswithdifferentfillings.Thebreadwaseitherwholewheatorwhite,slicedverythinlyandcutintosquareswiththecornerstrimmedtocreateakindofoctagon.IrememberearlyoninmycareerIaskedafellowchefwhyitwasnecessary to trimcornersoffof tea sandwiches. Iwas told tonever cut asquareorarectangle.ItlookedtoomuchlikeacoffinanditmeantyouwishedtheQueenill.Iwasmindfulnevertomakethatmistake.
InstructionsfromtheDuchessofYork’smenubook
Therewerealsoscones,one largecake,andonesmallcakesuchasa fruittartoréclair.Thefillingsmightvaryabitorthefruitusedwouldchangefromseasontoseason,butessentiallytheteamenuwasthesameeveryday.
EveryonehasafavoritecakeandtheQueenofEnglandisnoexception.Hersischocolatecake,eitherwithaspongeorbiscuitbase.Onceachocolatecakeismade,theQueenhasitbroughtoutagainandagainatteatimeuntilitisgone.Ihave evenpackedhalf a cake into “Ascot boxes” and sent it alongwith otherprovisionstoWindsorCastlefortheQueen’steasduringtheweekend.
TheQueenrequestschocolatespongecakeeachyear forherbirthday. It is
basicallyadarkbittersweetchocolategenoisecutintothreelayersandeachlayerfilledwitharichchocolateganache.AndImeanrich.Theganacheismadewithcream from theWindsor dairies. To complete the cake, more hot ganache ispouredoverthetopandallowedtorundownthesides.Itisexcessiveandutterlydelicious.Anyleftoverganache iscooledandused todecorate thecakewithasimple“HappyBirthday.”
ThemenuoftheweddingbreakfastforPrinceAndrewandSarahFerguson,theDuchessofYork
Evenmore delicious, inmy opinion, is the chocolate biscuit cake.All thechefslovedit.Onenightafairlynewchefmusthavethoughtitwashisbirthdaywhenachocolatebiscuitcakewasreturnedfromteatimewithonlyatinywedge
missing.Well, he decided to skip dinner and instead ate his way through thecake,piecebypiece,untilitwasfinished.Thenextday,theheadofpastrywasfrantically lookingfor thecake,questioningeveryoneuntil finally thesheepishgluttonadmittedhisguilt.Wequicklymadeanewcakeandjustbeforeitleftthekitchen, I cut out a tiny wedge. I am not sure if the Queen ever noticed thesubstitution.
Of course the Queen was not the only person who liked teatime. Mostmembersoftheroyalfamilylikedagoodafternoontea.HerRoyalHighnesstheDuchess ofYork, Sarah Ferguson, loved elaborate afternoon teas. She had anoffice in Buckingham Palace and regularly held teas for twelve or more. Inaddition to the regular tea provisions, she would add several more cakes andsausage rolls. She loved Battenburg Cake and I once sent up an absolutelyperfectBattenburgCakethatIhadmadeforhertea.Itwasreturneduneatenwithinstructions not to serve her “store-bought” tea cakes again. A bit of abackhandedcomplimentIsuppose!Ohwell,thechefsenjoyedit.
GardenTeaPartiesGarden parties have been hosted by the English monarchy since the late-
1800s.TheQueenthrowsfourgardenpartiesayear,allbutoneatBuckinghamPalace. The first party takes place in mid-July. Annual attendance at all thegardeneventscombinedtypicallyexceedsthirtythousandpeople.InvitationsaresentoutbytheLordChamberlain’sofficetogovernmentgroups,charities,anddiplomaticorganizations.Dressisimportant:menareexpectedtowearmorningcutaways,eveningsuits,ormilitaryuniforms,andladiesweardressesandhats.You can also wear a national costume, like a Scottish kilt. The parties are agenuine “thank you” from theQueen to charitable organizations thatwork sohard throughout the year. Garden parties are extremely popular and provideordinaryBritonsachancetofeellikearoyal,ifonlyforafewhours!
ChristmasBall
OfallmyfavoriteeventsatBuckinghamPalace,IlovedthestaffChristmasBallthebest.AndnotjustbecauseitmeantIdidn’thavetocook!Youwereallowed to attend every other year and could bring one member of yourfamily.Over the years, I squiredmymom, grandmother, sister,mywife,Wendy,andononememorableoccasion,myfather.
Iguessitcouldbeseenasabitsingulartotakeyourdadtoaball.Butmy fatherwas keen tomeet PrincessDiana and by then she and I had aquiteproperbutsweetfriendship.Infact,Ihadboastedtomydadthattheprincessknewmequitewell.Shehadthelastlaughthough.WhenshemetmydadshepretendedtohavenoideawhoIwas.Myfatherlookedatmeinconsternation. Laughing it off, Diana asked me to dance and asked myfather toholdherpurse.Offwewent todanceandmyfatherstood there,purseinhand,enchanted.
CentralLondonseemstogobackintimeongardenpartydays.Thegoldandblack palace gates swing open at three o’clock to allow all of these quiteformallydressedguests toenter—throughthefirstarch,across thequadrangle,into the palace, and out onto the manicured lawns of the Queen’s backyard.Thereisjustenoughtimetogetatable,grabacuportwoofEarlGreyteaandabitofsandwichorcake,beforegettingagoodplaceinlineastheclockstrikesfour.ThenHerMajestyandotherroyalsmaketheirwaytothegardenstepsandthemilitarybandplaysthenationalanthem.
TheQueenandthejuniorroyalsheadfortheroyalteatentinthefarright-handcornerofthegarden;theyalltakeadifferentrouteinordertoshakehandswiththeirguests.BythetimetheQueenreachestheroyaltentsheisgratefulfora pot of Earl Grey and a scoop of homemade ice cream. If Her Majesty isespecially hungry, she can choose from a variety of sandwiches and fillings,largeslicesofcake,jamtartsorfruittarts,éclairs,icecream,fourdifferentkindsof cakes including scones, and iced coffee. The large cakes might vary, butusuallyincludeaspongecakewithcreamfilling,achocolatecake,alemoncake,oragingercake.
CROQUESMONSIEUR
This is a traditional appetizer that we probably made for just about everyreception.Everyonelovedthem,whichisnosurprise.Afterall, theyarelayersofsmokedhamandGruyèrecheesesandwichedbetweenheavilybutteredbreadandthenbroiled.Whatisnottolike?
1sticksaltedbutter,softened
8slicespaindemieorfirmwhitebread8ouncesGruyèrecheese,16thinsliceswithrindremoved8(1-ounce)slicessmokedham
1.Preheatthebroiler.Butterthebreadslicesonbothsides.Top4slicesofbreadwith8thinslicesofGruyère,followedbyall8slicesofham.FinishwiththeremainingGruyèreontopoftheham,andthenlaytheremaining4breadslicesontopofthecheese.
2.Putthecroquesmonsieurontoabakingsheet,andplacethebakingsheetunderthebroilerfor5to8minutes,oruntilthebreadturnsgoldenbrownandcrispy.Flipthesandwichesovercarefully,andbrowntheotherside.Removethefoursandwichesfromthebroiler,trimoffthecrusts,andcuteachsandwichintoeightpieces.Serveimmediately.
3.Ifyouplantomakethecroquesmonsieuraheadoftime,theycanbelaidbetweenlayersofparchmentpaperandrefrigerated.
MAKES32COCKTAIL-SIZEPORTIONS
GLENEAGLESPÂTÉ
This was a popular first course at Buckingham Palace and a favorite of theQueen’s forprivatemeals. It isa combinationof threepâtés: smoked salmon,smokedtrout,andsmokedmackerel,whicharelayeredonsmokedsalmonfilletsand sliced. Served with Melba toast and horseradish crème fraîche, a smallportiongoesalongwayinflavor.Itkeepswellandcanbemultipliedtoserveacrowd.
2poundssmokedsalmon,thinlyslicedanddivided
1poundsmokedtrout
6sticks(1½pounds)unsaltedbutter,softenedanddivided1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshdill1teaspoonlemonjuice1poundsmokedmackerel
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshchives
1.Linea1-poundloaftinorpâtéterrinewithplasticwrap,overlappingthesides.Takehalfofthesmokedsalmonandlinethesidesandbottomoftheloaftin.Overlapthetopedgebyabout2inchessothatthesalmonwillfoldoverandcoverthefillingonceitisinplace.
2.Removeanddiscardtheskinfromthesmokedtrout,andthenplacethetroutinafoodprocessorandchopfinely;add2sticks(½pound)ofthebuttertotheprocessor.Blendagainuntilsmoothandaddthechoppeddillandlemonjuice.Carefullyspreadthetroutmixtureintotheloaftinontopofthesmokedsalmonandsmooththetop.Placetheloaftininthefreezerfor10minuteswhileyoupreparethesecondlayer.
3.Cleanthefoodprocessorbowl.Removeanddiscardtheskinfromthemackerel,andplacethemackerelintothefoodprocessor;chopfinely.Add2
sticksbutterandblenduntilsmooth.Taketheloaftinfromthefreezer,andspreadthemackerelmixturesmoothlyontopofthetroutlayerwithoutdisturbingthetroutlayer.Placetheloaftininthefreezerfor10minuteswhileyoupreparethethirdlayer.
4.Cleanthefoodprocessorbowlonceagainandplacetheremainingsmokedsalmonintothefoodprocessorandchopfinely.Addtheremaining2sticksofbutterandthechivestotheprocessor,andblendagainuntilsmooth.Removetheloaftinfromthefreezer,andspreadthesmokedsalmonontopofthemackerel.Smooththetop.
5.Foldtheoverlappingpiecesofsmokedsalmonoverthetoplayerofthesalmonspread.Coverthetopwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateovernight,orforatleast4hours,untilfirm.
6.Removetheloaftinfromtherefrigerator,andliftoffthetopplasticwrap.Inverttheterrineontoacuttingboardandremovetheloaftinandadditionalplasticwrap.Slicetheterrineinto1-inchslices.Serveonsaladleavesasanappetizerorslicetheterrineintofingersandserveoncrackersasacanapé.
MAKES8TO10SERVINGS
STILTONANDPECANSABLÉSWITHGRILLEDPEARS
This makes a delicate canapé, rich in flavor. The buttery, nutty, sandy basedisintegrates inyourmouth, leavinga smoothcombinationofbluecheeseandsoftpear.
6ounceschoppedpecans
3cupsflour
½teaspoonceleryseeds¼teaspooncayennepepper2sticks(1cup)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1poundStiltoncheese,crumbled1ripepear
1teaspoonwalnutoil
8ouncesgoatcheese,softened
1bunchfreshdill1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Roastthepecansintheovenonabakingsheetforabout15minutes.Coolandfinelychopthenuts.Inaseparatelargebowl,mixtogethertheflour,celeryseeds,andcayennepepper.Cutinthesoftenedbutter,continuinguntiltheflourmixturehastheconsistencyofbreadcrumbs.Addthecheese,andmixwellintotheflourmixture;thenaddthepecans.Collectthedoughintoaball,andplaceitonasheetofparchmentpaper.Usetheparchmentpapertorollthedoughintoalogabout1inchthick.Chillintherefrigeratoruntilthedoughisfirm.
2.Cutthechilleddoughinto¼-inchroundslices,andplacetheslices2inchesapartonabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.Cookfor15minutes,or
untilthesablésjuststarttocolor.Removefromtheoven,liftontoacoolingrack,andallowtocoolcompletely.Thesabléscanthenbekeptinanairtightcontainerforseveraldays.
3.Whenreadytoserve,firstquarterandpeelthepear,removingthecoreandtossingthepearquartersinthewalnutoil.Eitherbroilorgrillthepearquartersuntiltheybegintosoften.Removefromtheovenorgrill,andallowthemtocool.Whilethepearsarecooling,placethesoftenedgoatcheeseinapipingbagfittedwithasmallstartube,andpipearosetteofgoatcheeseoneachsablé.Decorateeachwithathinsliceofthegrilledpear,andtopeachpearslicewithatinysprigofdill.
MAKES50PIECES
GAELICSTEAKS
When Gaelic is in the title, be prepared for whiskey in the ingredients. Thisrecipe isnoexception. It’sahands-down favoriteof theDukeofEdinburgh’s,whowouldhaveitonthemenueverydayifhehadhisway.Thesauceisaquickpan sauce of mushrooms, shallots, parsley, whiskey, and cream. It is animpressivemealforprivatedinnersandyeteasyenoughfortheDuketomakeonhisowntoimpressguestsatsummerbarbeques.
IaddMarmitetothisdishtogiveitsomedepthandrichness.MarmiteisadarkbrowncoloredyeastextractmadeintheUK.ItisrichinvitaminBandhasa strong,unique, slightly salty flavor.Don’t seasonyour sauceuntil after youhavereduceditandaddedtheMarmite.
1½poundsbeeftenderloin,cutinto4equalsteaksSaltandfreshlygroundpepper4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1largeonion,finelychopped1clovegarlic,chopped3ouncesBabyBellaMushrooms,washedandsliced
1cupheavycream
½chickenbouilloncube,dissolvedin1cupboilingwateror1cuphomemadechickenbroth¼teaspoonMarmite2tablespoonswhiskey
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshparsley
1.Letthesteakscometoroomtemperatureandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Inasautépanlargeenoughtofitallthesteaksinonelayer,add2tablespoonsoliveoil,andheatthepanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Addthesteaksandcookeachsidetomediumrare,about4to6minutes.Removethesteakstoawarmplateandcover.
2.Inthesamepan,addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoil,andwarmtheoil
overamediumflame.Addtheonionandsautéuntiltranslucent.Stirinthegarlicandmushrooms,andsautéuntilthemushroomssoftenandlosesomeoftheirmoisture.Addthecream,bouillonorbroth,Marmite,andwhiskey.Increasetheheattohigh,andreducetheliquiduntilitformsasaucethickenoughtocoatthebackofawoodenspoon.
3.Removethesaucefromtheheat,andchecktheseasoning.Addtothesauceanyaccumulatedjuicesfromthesteaks.Placeeachsteakonaplate,spoonthesauceontop,andgarnishwiththechoppedparsley.
MAKES4SERVINGS
SPINACHSOUFFLÉ
Thisspinachsouffléwasusuallyservedasavegetablesidedish,butsometimesitwasservedasdessert.HerMajestywouldwrite“savoury”inthemenubookand thismeant that shewanted to end hermealwith something like a savorysoufflé.ItwouldbeservedpipinghotwithajugofWindsorcreamalongsidetodrizzleintothecenter.
Whenwemade spinach soufflésasa vegetable, thepresentationwasquiteclassic.Wespoonedthemixtureintoeight-inchringmolds,andwhiletheywerebaking we sautéed wild mushrooms in a cream sauce. The finished souffléswouldbeinvertedontoasilverdish,theringmoldremoved,andthemushroomsspoonedintothecenter.Asprinkleofchoppedtarragonwasplacedontopandofftothetabletheywent.
Softenedbutterforgreasing1(20-ounce)bagspinach,orenoughtomake1cupspinachpuree½cupall-purposeflour
4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
1¼cupsmilk½cupheavycream4eggs,separated½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmegSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Liberallybutteran8-inchsoufflédish,leavinga⅛-inchthickringofbutteraroundthelip.2.Dropthespinachintoalargepanofboilingwaterfor30seconds,andthenstrainintoacolander.Refreshthespinachbyplacingitbackintotheemptysaucepanandfillingthepanwithcoldwater.Oncethespinachiscold,strainitagainanddrainoffasmuchwateraspossible.Squeezethespinachinacleanteatoweltoremovetheexcesswater,andthenpureeitinafoodprocessor.Youwillneedtoreserve1cupofthepureeforthesoufflé.Anyextraspinachcanbeblendedwithmayonnaise,garlic,andredwinevinegartomakeasauce
verte.3.Inaheavysaucepan,addtheflour,butter,milk,andcream,andwhisktogetheroverhighheatuntilthebuttermeltsandathicksauceforms.Removefromtheheat,andwhiskintheeggyolks,nutmeg,andthespinach.Seasonwiththesaltandpeppertotaste,andallowtocoolforabout10minutes.
4.Whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andfoldintothespinachmixuntilallwhiteeggtraceshavedisappeared.Pourintothesoufflédish,andplaceitonthemiddleshelfintheoven.Bakefor20minutes,oruntilthesoufflérisesandisslightlyfirmtothetouchonthetop.
5.Removefromtheovenandserveimmediatelywithajugofheavycream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
SAGEDERBYDAUPHINOISEPOTATOES
SageDerbycheeseisanoldBritishcheesedatingfromthe1700s.Itwasmadeonlyonceayearandwasconsumed formedicinalpurposesbecause the freshsageaddedtothecheesecurdswasreputedtohavecurativepowers.Overtime,the green-colored cheese became popular at Christmas, in keeping with thedecoratedwreathsandtrees.ItremainsapopularChristmastreat,butisgoodany time of the year. Many reputable cheese shops carry it, but in a pinch,Gruyèremakesafinesubstitute.
2½cupsheavycream,divided5poundslargeredskinpotatoes,peeledandverythinlysliced8ounces(about2cups)SageDerbycheeseorGruyère,grated
1cupgratedParmesancheese
4clovesgarlic,crushedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Pour½cupheavycreamonthebottomofa13×9-inch,ovalcasserole.Placealayerofslicedpotatoesontopofthecream.Thepotatoesshouldbeabout¼inchthick,andalthoughyoucanslicethembyhand,Ifindamandolindoesagreatjobaswell.Overthefirstlayerofpotatoes,sprinklesomeoftheSageDerbyandParmesancheese,followedbysomeofthegarlicandadustingofsaltandpepperandanother½cupofcream.Continuebuildinglayers(you’llhaveaboutthree),finishingwiththecheeseandtheremainingcream.
2.Coverthecasseroledishwithaluminumfoilandbakeinthecenteroftheovenforabout45minutes.Removethealuminumfoilandbakeforanother30minutes,oruntilthepotatoesaretenderandthetopisgoldenbrown.
3.Removefromtheovenandserveimmediately,orallowtocoolovernightintherefrigerator.Thedauphinoisecanbereheatedgentlyintheovenasawhole,oryoucancutoutshapeswithacookiecutterandreheatonabaking
sheet.
MAKES8SERVINGS
RASPBERRYICECREAM
Thisrecipemakesanintenselyflavoredraspberryicecreamthatisdeliciousonitsownandevenbetterwhenspoonedintobrandysnapcornets(recipepage69)andtoppedwithadollopofclottedcream.
4cupsfreshraspberries
1cupplus2tablespoonssugar
1¼cupsheavycream½cupmilk2lemons,juiced1.Pureetheraspberriesinablenderandpourintoalargebowl.Addthesugar,cream,milk,andlemonjuice,andwhisktogether.Strainthemixthroughafinesievetoremovetheseeds.
2.Pourintoanicecreammakertofreeze,followingmanufacturer’sinstructions.Ifyoudon’thaveanicecreammachine,youcanstillmakethisdish.Insteadofpouringthecreamintotheraspberrypuree,whipituntilstiffinsteadandfolditintothemix.Freezeinaplasticcontainerforabout3hours,removefromthefreezer,andstir.Repeatthisprocessseveraltimes,andthenfreezeuntilfirm.
MAKES6SERVINGS
Gardenpartyfare:(fromlefttoright)ChocolateBiscuitCake, Jam and Cream Sponge, Battenburg Cake, teasandwiches,RaspberryIceCream
BATTENBURGCAKE
BattenburgCakeisatraditionalEnglishteacake,despiteitsGermanname.TheBattenburg family went on to become theMountbatten family, changing theirname to Windsor just before World War I. This cake is still served atBuckingham Palace, especially for garden parties, and was a favorite of theDuchessofYork’s.
4sticks(1pound)unsaltedbutter,softened2¼cupsgranulatedsugar
8eggs
3¼cupsall-purposeflour3to4dropsredfoodcolor(optional)1(12-ounce)jarapricotjam1poundmarzipan
1tablespoonpowderedsugar
1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Greasetwo9-inchcakepans,andlinewithgreasedparchmentpaper.Inamixingbowl,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpale,light,andfluffy.Graduallybeatintheeggsoneatatime.Foldintheflour,andplacehalfofthemixtureintooneofthepreparedcaketins.Quicklyfoldinafewdropsoftheredfoodcolor(anymorewillmakeitadarkerred)intotheremainingcakebatteruntilwellcombined,andthenpourtheredbatterintotheotherpreparedcakepan.
2.Bakefor30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownandthetopofeachcakespringsbackwhenlightlypressed.Removefromtheoven,andinvertthecakepansontoacoolingrack.Leavetocoolcompletely.
3.Trimeachcakeintotwo7×1×1-inchrectangles,fourinall.Trytoremoveallthebrownouteredgeswhenyouarecuttingtherectangularlogs.Inasmallpan,melttheapricotjamoverlowheattosoften.Brushjamontoallthesidesofeachofthefourpieces.Layaplainlayerofcakewitharedlayerontop.
Touchingalongsidetheplainlayer,layaredlayerwithaplainlayerontop.4.Rolloutthemarzipantoabout¼inchthickandintoarectanglebigenoughtowraparoundthecake.Carefullylaythecakeononeedgeofthemarzipan,andfoldthemarzipanaroundthecake,moisteningthemarzipanedgeswithalittlewaterandpinchingthemtogether.Trimoffanymarzipanedgesanddiscard.Cutthecakeinto1-inchslicesandserve.
MAKES10SERVINGS
CHOCOLATEBISCUITCAKE
OK, you have to first understand thatwhen I say“biscuit,” I am referring to“cookies,”not thosebigmuffin-looking thingsyoueatatbreakfast tokeep thebacongreaseoffyourhands!InBritain,biscuitsarecookies...andcookies...well those are things that keep popping up on your computer screens. Thatexplained, this is an amazing no-bake cake best served straight from therefrigerator. I can’t say how long it keeps because I have never had one lastlongerthanfiveminutesbeforeIwasstaringataplateofcrumbs.
Without a doubt, it is theQueen’s favorite tea cake.We had request afterrequestfrompalacevisitorstodivulgetherecipe.Well,I’veheldoutuntilnow.Enjoy!
½teaspoonbutter,forgreasingpan
8ouncesMcVitiesrichteabiscuits
½stick(4tablespoons)unsaltedbutter,softened½cupgranulatedsugar
4ouncesdarkchocolate
1egg,beaten8ouncesdarkchocolate,foricing1ouncewhitechocolate,fordecoration1.Lightlygreaseasmall(suchas6×2½-inch)cakeringwith½teaspoonbutter,andplaceonaparchment-linedtray.Breakeachofthebiscuitsintoalmond-sizepiecesbyhandandsetaside.Creamthebutterandsugarinabowluntilthemixtureisalightlemoncolor.2.Meltthe4ouncesofdarkchocolateinadoubleboiler.Addthebutterandsugarmixturetothechocolate,stirringconstantly.Addtheeggandcontinuestirring.Foldinthebiscuitpiecesuntiltheyareallcoatedwiththechocolatemixture.
3.Spoonthechocolatebiscuitmixtureintothepreparedcakering.Trytofillall
ofthegapsonthebottomofthering,becausethiswillbethetopwhenitisunmolded.Chillthecakeintherefrigeratorforatleastthreehours.
4.Removethecakefromtherefrigerator,andletitstandwhileyoumeltthe8ouncesofdarkchocolateforicing.Slidetheringoffthecakeandturnthecakeupsidedownontoacoolingrack.Pourthe8ouncesofmelteddarkchocolateoverthecake,andsmooththetopandsidesusingabutterknifeoroffsetspatula.Allowthechocolateicingtosetatroomtemperature.Carefullyrunaknifearoundthebottomofthecakewhereithasstucktothecoolingrack,andtransferthecaketoacakedish.Meltthewhitechocolateanddrizzleontopofthecakeinadecorativepattern.
MAKES8SERVINGS
EARLGREYTEACAKE
EarlGreyis themostoftenservedteaatBuckinghamPalace.It isablack teaflavored with oil of Bergamot—a fragrant citrus fruit—and named after thesecondEarlGreyin1830.Needlesstosay,italsomakesawonderfulscentedteacakethatstaysmoistforweeks.
1¼cupsboilingwater¾cupEarlGreyloosetealeaves1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasingthepan1½cupsDemeraraorlightbrownsugar,packed
3eggs
1½cupsall-purposeflour½cupgroundalmonds
4cupsraisins
½cupwalnuts,choppedCrèmefraîche(optional)1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Linealoafpanwithparchmentpaperandgreasetheparchmentwithbutter.Pourtheboilingwateroverthetealeavesinalargebowl,andleavethemixturetoinfuseforatleast1hour.Strainthetea,andsetasidetocool.
2.Creamthebutterandsugaruntillightandsmooth.Graduallyincorporatetheeggs,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Foldintheflourandgroundalmonds,followedbytheraisinsandwalnuts.Addthereservedteaandmixwell.
3.Spoonthebatterintothepreparedloafpan,andbakefor1hour,oruntilatoothpickinsertedintothecentercomesoutclean.Removethecakefromtheoven,andcoolinthepansetonacoolingrack.Whenitiscool,unmoldthecake,slice,andservetoppedwithcrèmefraîche.Anyleftovercakecanbewrappedinplasticwrapandrefrigeratedforuptoseveralweeks.
MAKES12SERVINGS
JAMANDCREAMSWISSROLL
1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,softened
2tablespoonsall-purposeflour
8eggs,separated1½cupsgranulatedsugarplus½cupforsprinkling1¼cupspotatoflourorpotatostarch1(12-ounce)jarstrawberryjellyorjam1pint(2cups)heavycream,whippedtosoftpeaks1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Linea13×9-inchbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Lightlygreasethepaperwiththebutter,andthendustwiththeflour.Whisktheeggyolksand1½cupssugarwithanelectricmixerorbeateronhighuntilthemixtureturnspaleincolor,about3minutes.Whisktheeggwhiteswithanelectricmixerorbeateronhighuntilsoftpeaksform.2.Foldhalftheeggwhitesintotheyolkandsugarmixture,followedbythepotatoflour,andthentheremaininghalfoftheeggwhites.Gentlypourthemixtureintothepreparedpanandsmoothouttothecornerswithanoffsetspatula.Bakefor10to15minutesinthecenteroftheoven.Checktoseeifthespongecakeiscookedbygentlypressingthetop;itwillspringbackwhendone.Havereadyasheetofparchmentpaper(atleast13×9-inches)sprinkledwiththeremaining½cupgranulatedsugar.Turnthespongecakeoutontothesugaredparchmentpaperandpeeloffthebakingparchment.Allowthecaketocool.Spreadthecakelightlywiththejamandwhippedcream.Rollthecakeintoatightspiral,usingtheparchmentpapersonottotouchthecake.Sliceandserve.
MAKES8SERVINGS
RASPBERRYTARTLETS
ThesealwaysseemedtobeonthemenuforlargegardenpartiesatBuckinghamPalace.Ittookforevertoplacethreeraspberriesofthesamesizeoneachtartletandthento“paint”eachonewithraspberryjam.Sometimeswewouldputhalfa strawberry on the tartlets brushedwith raspberry jam, ormandarin orangesegments, brushed with apricot jam. Any leftover pastry can be kept in therefrigeratorforatleastfourweeks.
Pastry
1cupsugar
1stick(½cup)plus6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1teaspoonvanillapaste
1egg
3¼cupsall-purposeflourFilling1¾cupsmilk¼cupheavycream2wholeeggs
4eggyolks¼cupcornstarch
2teaspoonsvanillapaste
¾cupsugarPinchofsalt
3cupsfreshraspberries
3cupsfreshraspberries
1(12-ounce)jarseedlessraspberryjam1.Forthepastry,creamthesugar,butter,andvanillapasteinamixingbowluntilpale.Beatintheegguntilcombined.Foldintheflour,formthedoughintoaball,andrefrigerateforatleast1hour.
2.Forthefilling,bringthemilkandcreamtoaboilinasmallheavysaucepanoverahighheat.Placethewholeeggs,eggyolks,cornstarch,vanilla,sugar,andsaltinalargebowl,andwhisktogether.Pourtheboilingmilkandcreamovertheeggmixture,andwhisktogether.Returnthemixturetothepan,andwhiskoveralowheatuntilthemixstartstothicken.Pourintoasmallcontainer,andcoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateuntilcold.
3.Rolloutthepastrytoabout⅛inchthickonalightlyflouredsurface,andusingaroundcookiecutter,cutoutcirclestoline24(2-inch)tartletmolds.Bakethepastrycirclesinthecenteroftheovenfor15minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Allowthepastrytocoolslightlybeforeremovingfromthemoldstoacoolingrack.
4.Spoon½teaspoonoffillingintoeachtartlet,andarrangethreeraspberriessidebysideontopofthefilling.Heatthejaminasmallsaucepanoveralowheat,stirringuntilthejamdissolves.Usingapastrybrush,brusheachoftheraspberrieswiththejam,allowingalittletorunintothetartlet.
MAKES24INDIVIDUALTARTLETS
ICEDCOFFEE
IcedcoffeewasmadeatBuckinghamPalaceforgardenpartiesandatWindsorCastle forAscotRaces tea. The coffee roommaidwould bring twogallons offreshlybrewedHiggins–blendcoffeetothekitcheneachdayanditwouldchillovernight.ThenWindsorcreamandsugarsyrupwasadded.Thecoffeewasthendecantedthroughamuslinclothintochilledcoffeeurns.
2cupswater
1cupsugar
5cupsverystrongfreshlygroundcoffee,brewedandchilled1¼cupsheavycreamPutthewaterandsugarinasmallpan,andbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducebyhalf,andremovefromtheheattocoolcompletely.Inalargebowlmixthecoffeeandcream,andstiruntilcombined.Whiskinthesugarsyrup.Strainthroughafinesieveintoalargejugandrefrigerate.Pouroveraglassoficecubestoserve.
MAKES2QUARTS
CHAPTERTHREE
WindsorCastleRitesofSpring
WindsorCastle,sittingtimelesslyamiditslushacresofparks,lawns,andponds,seamlesslylinksEnglandpastwithEnglandpresent.Itisabreathtakingpieceofcountry.AsyouwalktheenormousexpanseofGreatParkandHomePark,youcan see white swans circling lazily in the Thames or small deer gathering incopsesofancientbentoaks.Menintraditionalwhitesmaybeassemblingforaserious game of cricket. Look up and you’ll see flying above it all the royalstandardiftheQueenisathome.Everythingaroundyouseemstosay,“ThisisEngland!”
Ialwaysenjoyedmy timeatWindsor immensely. Itsbeautyand timeworngracemakeitmuchlovedbyfamilyandstaffalike.Forme,WindsorCastleislinked with memories of springtime in England. HerMajesty begins her stayrightbeforeEasterandthefamilyisatthecastleoffandonthroughthespringandintoearlysummer.ManygreateventstakeplaceafterEaster,includingtwoof my favorites: the Ascot Races and the Royal Horse Show. Also, lots ofwonderful food begins showing up in the spring, including luscious hothousepeaches,fragileanddeeplyflavoredstrawberries—Imeanrealstrawberries thelikes of which we don’t often see anymore—and thick luscious cream culledfrom the Windsor cows that have been pastured outdoors in the meadowssurroundingthecastle.
WindsorAblaze
Windsor Castle is old, even by English standards. It has been a royalresidence for almost one thousand years. But nothing stays the sameforever,andsoWindsorhaschangedwith time.Somechanges reflect thedesiresofpreviousroyaltyortheslowwearingeffectsofnature.Andsomechangeshappenfromunforeseendisaster.Iwitnessedoneofthosedisasters,
forIwaslivingonthegroundsofthecastleonNovember20,1992,whenafire broke out in the Queen’s private chapel in the northeast part of thecastleandrapidlymovedtoengulfthestateapartments.
The castle’s part-time twenty-man fire brigade was dispatched alongwithalocalfirehouse.ThefirequicklyspreadtotheBrunswickTowerandthe Royal Berkshire Fire and Rescue Service were called in, plus anadditionaltenfirehouses.Eventhatprovedtobeinsufficient.Bytheendofthedaythirty-ninefirehouseswereon-sitebattlingtheblaze.
Irememberitquiteclearly.IhadjustarrivedatWindsorandsettledintomyapartmentatFrogmoreStables.ItwasmidafternoonwhenIgotaknockonthedoorfromoneofthegardenerswhohadbeensenttorallythestafftothe castle. Word came that a fire had broken out and all hands wererequired. It wasn’t until I was outside and saw all the smoke that Irecognized how serious a fire itwas.HerMajestywas in themidst of it,directing staff as they gathered up as many irreplaceable treasures aspossible.Ibeganhelpingthefiremen,unloadingspentoxygentanksoffoffiremen’sbacksandputtingonfreshonessotheycouldgobackinside.
AtsomepointtheQueen’spage,PaulWhybrew,cameupandaskedmetohelpclearouttheQueen’sapartmentinthecastle.ItwasthefirsttimeIhad been inside HerMajesty’s apartment. The corridor leading from herroomstotherestofthecastlehadbeenboardeduptohelpslowthefire’sspread;asyet,therewasn’tanysmoke.Inside,PaulandIstartedpickinguppaintingsandfurnitureandcartingthemoutasquicklyaswecould.
For a time it was just the Queen and me as we packed her personalitems. I could see she was terribly distressed though her demeanor wascalm.At one point I remember she picked up her husband’s slippers andstaredatthem.Iwasstruckbythethoughtthatallthemoneyandpositionintheworldmeansnothingatatimelikethis.
Ithadbeenabeautifulcleardayandthesunsettingovertheragingfirewasarawspectacleforoureyes.
Even before nightfall I knew Windsor Castle had been absolutelydevastated.Itwouldtakefiveyearsandmillionsofpoundstorebuildit.
THEKITCHENATWINDSORCASTLEThere is one main kitchen at Windsor Castle. It’s been updated over time—
electricityandrunningwaterwereaddedmorethanonehundredyearsago—buttheoriginalstructureremainsessentiallyunchangedanddatesbackhundredsofyears. It is an impressive room towork in—an enormous stone barrel-vaultedroomwithgreatdistancesfromsinkstoovensandhearthsandtorefrigerators.Infact, it takes almost five minutes to walk from the refrigerator to the stoves.Longdistancesseparatethedishwashingarea,larder,silverpantry,linenroom,anddiningroom.Thefarthestisthecoffeeroom.Thelarderchefhastotaketeasandwichesdowneachafternoon, followedby thepastrychefwithsconesandteacakes.Roundtripisabouttwentyminutes.Youcouldhaveeatenallthefoodalongtheway—justtokeepupyourstrength,ofcourse.
CalledtheGreatKitchen,itissplitintothreeparts.Themainkitchentakescareofentreesandvegetables,thelarderkitchenpreparesallthecoldfoods,andthe royalpastrykitchen is responsible forpuddings,pastries, anddessert fruit.Themainkitchen,withaboutadozenchefsworkingfulltime,wasafunplacetowork when court was in residence. We needed that many chefs. Chefs feedeveryone,notjusttheroyalfamily.AtWindsorthatincludesallstaff,stewards,officialsandseniorofficials,butlers,porters,juniorchefs,andhousemaids.Anddon’tforgetthetypists,secretaries,andpersonalassistants.
Inanoddtwistofbureaucraticspaceallocation,WindsorCastlehasitsownfully stockedbar situated right across from thekitchen.With abreakbetweensendinguproyalmealsandgettingstaffmealsout,aseniorchefmightdisappearto the “canteen” for a quick pint . . . and then another. I remember severalWindsor weekends when junior chefs cooked the entire dinner because theseniorchefwasrathertipsyfromaconvivialvisittothecanteen.
At least the kitchens had windows and we could see daylight. The larderkitchenwindowslookoutontotheNorthTerraceandonquietdaysthetouristswerefedsamplesof“royal”food.Goodnessknowshowmanyvacationphotoshavebeentakenwithagaggleofchefsallposingatthelarderwindow!
Thekitchen’sworkbencheswereveryoldandverylow.Solow,infact,thatthechefshadwoodenblocksmadetoholdchoppingboardseighteeninchesoffthe tables. I’mfairly tall; Ialways leftWindsorwithabadbackfrombendingover thosetableswhileworking.Thestovesweretuckedawayin littlealcovesandchefswouldknocktheirhatsoffastheybenttolookintoapan.Ibelieveitwastheworkingkitchenmosthatedbythechefs,butitwastheprettiestandhadthemostcharacter.
Under the larderkitchenwasanotherroomthatweusedasasparekitchenduringbusytimes.Andbeneaththatwasabigemptycave.Itwasanexcellent
location for staffdiscos. Ibecame the residentDJ, spinningold45 records fortheRoyalHouseholdSocialClub.Dancingwouldstartaroundteno’clock,afterthestaffhadfinishedwork,andwentonsometimesuntilaftertwoo’clockinthemorning.Ofcoursebythenmostofthechefswerehungryagain.
Luckyforuswehadtowalkthroughthekitchenandknewwheretofindthekeytothelarderfridge.ManyanightwecouldbefoundmakingScooby-snack–sizedsandwichestoeatintheBrunswickTowerelevatorbeforeretiringtobed.Thenextmorningwewouldall tiptoearoundthebreakfastchefwhowouldbecursingusunderhisbreathashequicklydefrostedbreadfortheroyalbreakfast.
WINDSORWEEKEND
“Windsorweekends”isthenamegiventothetimetheQueenspendsatWindsorwhensheisactuallyinresidenceatBuckinghamPalace.WhensheheadsuptoWindsorCastle,theBuckinghamPalacekitchensendslotsoffoodalongintwolargeAscotboxes,onewithfoodfromthemainkitchenandanotherfilledwithprovisionsfromthepastrykitchen.AsseniorpastrychefitwasmyjobonFridaytomakesurethateverythingwassettogointothevan.
Did the Queen want apple pie? OK, the sweet pastry was packed and Idouble-checkedthattheGrannySmithappleswereonthefruitorder.Chocolatemousse?IaddedablockofD6darkchocolatetothebox.Coffeemousse?WasthereajarofNestleGoldBlendandsomeliqueurcoffeebeansinthere?Check.BeefWellington?Don’tforgetthepuffpastry.Brandysnapsfortea?I’lljustpopina recipe and thewoodendowels tomold them.PainPruneaux? Ineeded tosendtheVictoriancoppermoldtomakeit inandmoreimportantly,makesurethemoldwasreturnedonMonday.SconesandFridayafternoon teacakesandteasandwicheswereamustandwereaddedalongsidetherestoftheweekend’singredients.Itriednottoforgetanything,butoccasionallytherewasalapseandoverthetelephoneIhadtocalmpanickedchefslookingforamissingingredient.
ProvisioningtheKitchen
ThegreatestassetfordriverswhodeliverfoodtoWindsorCastleisamildtemperament. After a congested twenty-mile drive from London,deliverymenhave tohaulboxesof fooddowna flightof stairs, along thebasementcorridor,andupanotherflightofstairstothekitchen.It’snotso
badiftheQueenhasn’tarrivedatthecastleyet.Thenthetrucksareallowedinto the quadrangle and closer to the staff dining-room-door entrance tounload.Butif theQueenisinresidence,notrucksareallowedintheyardandprovisionshavetobecarriedinfromevenfartheraway.
SomeofthefoodsthatmadetheirwaytothekitchenweregiftsreceivedbytheQueen.Irememberonesuchgift,adeliveryofripemangoesfromaSaudiprince.OnthisoccasionwehadinstructionsthatthefruitwasfortheQueenandDukeonly.PrinceAndrewhadstoppedinthekitchen,seenthemangoes,andaskedforone.RobertPine,theQueen’spastrychefofthirtyyears,flatlytoldhim,“No.TheyarefortheQueenonly.”
Iputmyheaddownandcarriedon rollingoutpastry.Hadachef justtoldamemberof theroyalfamilyno?PrinceAndrewwasclever, though,andhecameback to thekitchenwhenheknewall the chefswouldbeatbreakfast.ChefPinewasclevereryet.Hehad locked thedoor to the fruitroom.FortheQueenandtheDukeonly—thoseweretheorders.
Windsorweekendsmeantjustafewchefswereneeded.Typicallytherewasaseniorcookinchargeandtwojuniorcooks.Notmanyoftheroyalfamilywereabout,either.MostoftenitwasjusttheQueenformeals,orperhapstheQueenand the Duke. I loved that because it meant I got to cook everything on themenu, not just sauces or desserts, like the more regimented partie system inplace at Buckingham Palace. No, as a senior chef at Windsor Castle I wasresponsibleforitallandthatwasfinewithme.Notsoforsomeotherchefs.
Irememberoneseniorchefwhohatedmakingdessert.Hejustcouldn’tdoit.So,oneweekendhehada juniorchefprepareachocolatesouffléfor theroyaldinner. The poor young chefwas so nervous—especiallywhen he opened theovenandrealizedthesouffléhadn’trisen.Quickasaflashtheseniorcheftookthedishoutoftheovenandtippeditontothefloor.
“Oh dear,” he said, “accidents do happen—they’ll have to have ice creaminstead.” And with a smile he walked off to inform the page of the “souffléaccident.”Farbetter theQueenwas toldaboutakitchenaccident than tohavehercomplaintotheheadchefinLondonabouthavingbeenservedaless-than-perfectsoufflé.
Depending on the skill (and sobriety) of the senior chef, the junior chefswererarelyallowedtopreparetheroyalfood.Maybetheywoulddoasaladorperhapsvegetables. Itwas reallyanopportunity fora seniorcook to standout
among the cadres of chefs who work for the Queen. I’ve seen fellow chefs,myself included, get quite puffed up when the page called the head chef inLondononaMondaymorningtosaytheQueenhadreallyenjoyedthefoodthatweekend.
Maids-a-Milking
Thereare twoenormousparks thatsurroundWindsorCastle, theWindsorGreatParkand theHomePark.TheHomePark issplit into twoparksbyname—HomeParkPublicandHomeParkPrivate.ThelatteristheQueen’sprivatebackyard.Thereshecandriveandwalkfreely.ItisalsothehomeoftheWindsordairy,mausoleum,andgardens.
A dairy herd has been part of the castle’s landscape for more than acentury.TodaytherearetwomainbreedsofcattlekeptatWindsor:JerseyandAyershire.Carefullytended,theherdsyieldsomeofthebestmilkandcreamfoundanywhereinEngland.
Milking takes place twice a day in the royal dairy. The dairy is arelativelynewfeatureatWindsor.Itwasbuiltin1858underthedirectionofPrinceAlbert,usingadvancedtechnologyforitstime.Themaininnovationistheuseofdoublewallstokeepthedairycool,amustinthedaysbeforerefrigeration.Although themilking process has changed over the years—it’snolongerdonebyhand—thecreameryremainsthesame.
Ithasabeautifulpaintedceilingsupportedbysixpillarsandallof thewalls are decoratedwith ornate tiles. Two tables covered in thickmarblestretch the length of the room and more tables surround the edge of theroom.All the original separatingbasins are in place and scattered aroundthemarble tops. The original cream jugs are also still there, which wereusedtotransportcreamfromthedairytothecastle.
Milkingbasinslinethedairywalls
WhenIworkedatWindsor,thecreamwasstillseparatedbyhand.Mrs.Williams,themilkmaid,wouldhandspinthemilkagallonatatimeusinganoldseparator.Eightpintsofmilkfromtheroyalcowswouldproduceonepintof royalcream.Usingahandmethod formilk separation tookhours,andif therewereanupcomingstatevisitorgardenparty,wechefshadtogivethedairyadvancewarning.Bothmilkandcreamwereunpasteurized.
Thecreamwassothickthatyoucouldliterallystandaspoonupinit.Itwas even thicker than Cornish clotted cream. Crème brûlée, which theroyals loved,achievedanewlevelwhenmadewithWindsorcream.Evenvanilla ice cream turned into a voluptuous treat. The extramilk is turnedintocheesemadeinlittlethree-inchpotssetinpolystyreneboxes.TheroyalfamilylovesitandtheyhaveitsentuptoBalmoralduringthesummerforthelunchtimecheeseboards.
DecorativestatuarydisplayedalongwithantiquepitchersintheHomeParkPrivatemausoleum.Noticethebeautifulhand-paintedtiles.
Therehasbeenmuchdiscussionoflateaboutpasteurization,especiallyinregardtocheesemaking.Cheesemadewithpasteurizedmilkoftenlacksthedepthofflavorfoundinnonpasteurizedor“raw”cheeses.Itwasn’tuntil1990 that the Queen agreed to have the milk pasteurized for “safetyreasons.”Alltheroyalchefsmournedthischangeandweagreedthatsomeofthemilk’sincomparabletastewaslost.
SPRINGTIMEATTHECASTLECertainritualsmarkWindsor’syear.Inearlyspring, theentireWindsorfamilycelebratesEasterwithservicesatSt.George’schapel.InJune,theOrderoftheGarter ceremony takes place, an annual celebration of Britain’s oldest andhighest order of chivalry. For sports enthusiasts there are two big events: theWindsorHorseShowinMayandRoyalAscotinJune.TheQueenalsoallowscelebrity charity cricketmatches to take place inHomePark, and there is theannual fiercely competitivematch between theLordsTavernersTeamand theRoyalHouseholdCricketTeam.
WindsorMulberries
Beginninginthe1200s,Englishkingsdecidedtoattempttheproductionofsilkontheirownlands.Mulberrytreeswereimportedandplantedinhopesof providing silkworms with their favorite food. The cool, damp climatekeptsilkproductionlowandsporadic,eventhoughthetreesflourished.
Stemming from that time, thewalkway along the royal dairy is linedwithbeautifulmulberrytrees.Toachef,mulberrytreesmeanmulberrygin.We would collect ripe mulberries from the ground under the trees, thenwashandsteeptheminginforseveralweeks.Thegintakesontheflavoroftheripeberriesandturnsagorgeouspurplehue.Itisafinedrinkand,inmyopinion, much superior to sloe gin, which we made from pricked sloeberries.Afterwetastedthemulberrygintoensureitwasproperlysteeped(veryimportanttastingthatwas),itwassenttotheroyalcellarstobeused
forshootinglunchesintheScottishhighlandsandatSandringhamCastle.
EasterTraditionsTheroyalfamilydoesn’tcelebrateEasterpublicly,butenjoystheholidayas
aprivatefamilyaffairwithwonderful traditions.Ofcourse, therearehotcrossbuns toeatonGoodFridayandonShroveTuesday theQueen,asheadof theChurch of England and like the rest of Christian England, has pancakes fordinner,whicharewhatAmericanswouldcall“crepes.”Twohot thinpancakesare filled with vanilla sugar, folded and served with lemon juice and cream.PrincePhilipprefershiscoldandfilledwithraspberryjamandwhippedcream.These are called “Crepes Islandaise” or Icelandic pancakes because he wasvisitingIcelandwhenhefirsttastedthem.
Pancake day meant making around seven hundred crepes for everyone. Itsoundslikealot,butwithcrepepansoneachburner,itwouldactuallygofairlyquickly.Thereisarhythmtomakingthem,andonceIgotintothatrhythmhotcrepesseemedtofilleveryavailablesurfacearoundme.DuringoneChristmasat Sandringham, I was manning my crepe pans on all six burners when theQueenandhersister,PrincessMargaret,cameintothekitchen.TheQueenwasheadedforthelardersectionandPrincessMargaretwasheadedtowardme.
HappyEasterforchildrenandgrownupsalike
“Lillibet,comelookatthis!”theprincessshoutedtohersister.Ohyes,Ithought,theQueenwillbeimpressedwatchingmewithsixpans.Insteadshesaid,“Isn’tthatcheating?Aren’tyousupposedtotossthem?”Iquicklyputdownmyspatulaandtossedthefirstone.Increasinglynervous,
IcontinuedpouringandflippingandsaidaquickprayerundermybreaththatIdidn’t spill a pancake on the floor. They both continued to watch for a fewminutes,andthensatisfied,movedon.
The Queen gives up chocolate for Lent, so banished are her favoriteBendicksBittermintsandCharboneletWalkerchocolates.OnEasterSundaythechefswouldgotogreatlengthstoprepareallsortsofchocolatetreatstomakeupforthefortydaysofabstinence.Therewerechocolatecakesplusmilkchocolate,white chocolate, and bittersweet chocolate eggs.This trove of chocolate treatswouldbeservedatroyalteatimeforseveraldays,beforefindingitswayintothestaff dining room. The Queen’s birthday is shortly after Easter, and shecelebrates eachApril 21 atWindsorwith another lovely chocolate cake. It’s alarge twelve-inchcake layeredwithandcovered inganache.Asimple“HappyBirthday”ishandwrittenonthetopinroyalicing.
The children in the nursery would also get some sugar mice to eat and
specialchocolateeggsillustratinganurserytaleorfable.OneyearIdecideditwould be “Hickory, Dickory, Dock.” I labored over a twelve-inch hollowchocolateegg.Insertedintothateggwasasugarmousewithitsheadpokingout,andonthefrontwasaclock’sfacesetatoneo’clock—“asthemouserandown.”PrinceWilliam loved it and immediately bit off themouse’s headwith gusto,transformingtheeggfromarttofoodinrecordtime!Thenannysentitbacktothekitchen,quicklysayingthattheheadlessmousewasdistressingtheyoungerchildren.Igaveitaquickmakeoverwithanewmouseandbackupitwent.Allbetter.
DianaattheCastle
IalwayslookedforwardtoseeingPrincessDianaandtheboysatthecastle.The princess seemed to enjoy the break too.Often shewould spend timevisitinginthekitchen,chattingwithmeaboutthedayandfindingoutwhatwewerecookingfordinner.
TheprincessquitelikedWindsor.Itwasn’ttoofarfromLondonand,asshe once said, she could get “passes” to sneak back to the city. Oneafternoon, I was walking my dogs in the Home Park and saw her carapproaching. She spotted me, stopped the car, rolled her window downabouttwoinches,andsaid,“DoestheQueenknowyoukeepwolvesinherbackgarden,Darren?”
IlaughedandtheyoungerofmytwoGermanshepherdsenthusiasticallyjumpeduptohercarwindow,wagginghertail.Theprincessletoutayelpand said good-bye before quickly driving off. The next morning, theQueen’s page caught up with me and mentioned, “I hear you set yourwolvesontoPrincessDianayesterday.”
Good Lord! I don’t knowwho else she told. I realized then that shewasn’tallthatfondofdogs.
IalwaysenjoyedEastercourtatWindsor.Springwasjustaroundthecorner,theasparagusandlettuceswereinseason,andtherewasalwaysagloriouslambtoroastforEasterlunch.OnSundaystheQueen’sgardenwasopentothepublicandamilitarybandwouldplay.Luckily,myroominBrunswickTowerlooked
rightoverthegarden.IntheafternoonsIcouldsit therewiththewindowopenand listen to the music float up. Other days I would watch Princess Dianaplayingwiththeboysandhavingfun.ItwasatimelesssceneofEngland.
TheOrderoftheGarterTheOrderoftheGarteristhehighesthonorbestowedonaBritishcitizenas
a reward for loyalty to the Crown, military merit, or to those who havesignificantly contributed toEnglish life.Appointments aremade solely by theQueen,areforlife,andarerestrictedtonomorethantwenty-fourpeopleatanytime.
EveryJune,theOrdergathersatWindsorCastletoinvestanynewmembersand to reaffirm their commitment.A lunch is given in theWaterloo chamber,whichisoneofWindsor’smaindiningrooms.It’sanelegantlydecoratedroomwithadining table set tomatch.The food is servedongiltplates, solid silvercoveredwitha thin layerofgold.Themembersaredressed in traditionalbluevelvetrobesandthemoodisfestive.Fordessert theinviteeshavea traditional“pudding,”oneofmyfavorites:FramboisesSt.George.St.Georgeisthepatronsaint ofEngland andhis image is closely connectedwith theWindsor family.ThedessertmimicstheflagofSt.George,aredcrossonawhitefield.
BeforetheWindsorfirein’92,therewasn’tanelevatorinthekitchen,sothefoodwascollectedonlargemahoganytrayswithafootmanoneitherend.Themiddlefootmencarriedatrayineachhandastheymarchedout.Itlookedlikeatrainwithitscarriagesleavingthekitchens.
AscotWindsor is perfectly suited for sports of all kinds. Some have a long and
venerablehistoryofplayontheWindsorproperties.Othersaremorerecent.ButnonecarrieswithitthecachetoftheRoyalAscotraces.Itattractsaristocratsandroguesalikeandisanimmenselypopularpartofspringtimeatthecastle.EventheQueentakesakeeninterestinAscotsinceshehassomeofherownhorsesrunningintheraces.
Theracestakeplacearoundmid-Juneandracinggoesonforfourdays.Theracetrack,ownedbytheroyalfamily,isnotintheGreatPark,butacrosstown.Myfavoritedayoftheracesis“LadiesDay,”athrowbacktothetimewhenonlymenwereallowed tobetonhorses.Womenshowup inbeautifuldresseswith
hats to match. I always tried to attend races that day, since my unscientificsurvey ledme tobelieve thatLadiesDayatAscotheldmore stunningwomenpersquareinchthananyplaceonearth.
Ascot is a busy time for chefs. The house is full, with at least fifteen totwentymembersoftheroyalfamily,plusguests,inresidence.Therecanbenodawdlingovermealsbackatthecastle,astheQueenisalwaysinattendanceinthe royalboxwhen the first racebegins at1:30p.m.Lunch startspromptlyatnoon,andthentheroyalretinuepilesintocarsanddriveshalfwaydownthelongwalk,beforegettingoutandswitching tohorse-drawncarriages for the restofthejourneyacrosstown.Makingagrandentrance,theQueen’scarriagearriveson the racetrackbeforemoving into the royalenclosure—thebestboxseats intheworld.
Ascot
TheQueenisnevermoregleefulthanwhenoneofherhorsescomesinfirstatAscot. She is a keen horsewoman and has alwaysmaintained her ownracing stablewithLordPorchester asher racingmanager.Typically thereareabouttwenty-fivethoroughbredhorsesintrainingatanygiventime,andtheQueenknowseachhorse’slineageandracingtimes.
Ascotisaboutracingandbetting.Theroyalfamilydoesplacewagers,though the sums are fairlymodest. Of course, the bets placed are higherwhen one of theQueen’s horses takes to the tracks. It’s easy to spot herhorses.TheQueen’sjockeysstandoutintheirroyalracingcolorsofpurple,gold,andscarlet.
Closebehindwouldbe theAscotvan thatheldall the food the familyandguestswould enjoywhilewatching the races.The vanwas loadedwithAscotboxes, three-foot-tallwooden boxeswith a door on one side. Inside each boxwasroomforsixtraysoffood.Thelarderchefwouldpackthetrayswithatleasttwodifferentkindsofteasandwiches,cutsmallenoughforasinglebite.Iwouldsend three different kinds of tea cakes, scones, fresh ice cream, and the verypopularicedcoffeemixedwithmilk,sugarsyrup,andWindsorcream,servedinahuge thermos flask.Weevenhad a recipe for it so that it tasted exactly thesame for every Ascot and garden party. The tension of horse racing must
stimulatetheappetite,forInoticedthatverylittlefoodcamebackuneaten.Ascot kicked off the summer for palace chefs. Now we could use
strawberries,cherries,andallthewonderfulsummerfruits.TheQueenwasquiteparticularabouteatingfruitinseason.Wecouldservestrawberriesalmosteverydayduringthesummer—butwoebetideanychefwhoputthemonthemenuinJanuary.
TheWindsorhothousesgrowwhitepeachesthatareabsolutelybeautiful tolookatandevenbettertoeat.Eachpeachishandpicked,wrappedindividuallyingauze,andstoredinspeciallymadecrates.Wecouldcookbruisedpeaches,butthe unblemished beauties were eaten in their pristine state. Forget chocolatedesserts when Windsor peaches were in season—a whole Windsor peach onyourplatewithasilverjugofWindsordairycream—bliss.
WindsorHorseShow
The Horse Show is a classic horse exhibition. There is show jumping—whichtheQueenandPrincessAnnebothtookpartin—Shetlandponyracesand carriage driving. One of the events much loved by the Duke ofEdinburgh is the International Driving Grand Prix, an absolutely hair-raisingcompetitionofsmallphaetonsledbyfour tosixhorses.Thegrandprix is always run individually and against the clock while traveling fullbore through rough terrain.To theviewers it always seems likeamiraclethat horse and driver end up at the finish line in one piece. The Dukeparticipateseachyearintheraceand,evenasamannowinhiseighties,heshowsnosignof“givingupthereins.”
ThestaffatWindsordidnotneedtoattendtheshowtoknowhowtheDukewas ranking.His disposition told all. If hewas in a grumpymood,thenweknewthathewasalotfurtherdownintherankingsthanhethoughthe should be. Same thing when he was competing in yacht races duringCowesWeek onHMYBritannia. The only differencewas that hewouldcomeintoBritannia’sgalleykitchenandrantat thechefs.Goodthing thekitchensatWindsorwerefartherawayfromtheroyalapartments!
TheWindsorHorseShow
The Windsor Horse Show takes place in the private half of Home Park,typicallyaroundmid-May,andithighlightstheequestrianactivitiesthatarepartoftheroyalhousehold.Attendanceisopentothepublic,butparticipationisbyroyalinvitationonly.Whilesomemayargueitisnotthebestequestrianeventinthe country,most agree thatwithWindsorCastle as a backdrop it is themostimpressive.Atnightthecastleisfloodlitandlookslikeapicturesquefairytale.
Staff is offered one free ticket each to attend the show and most chooseSundaytocatchthefinalefireworkdisplay.SomematesandIwouldheaddowntotheshowassoonaswehadsentuproyaldinnerandchangedoutofourchefwhites.My favorite partwas themusical ride by the royal horse artillery andtheirfinalewhenallsixgunswerefirstfiredindividuallyandthenalltogether.ItcanbeheardalloverWindsor.Wewouldthenmakeamaddashbackupthehillto the castle and up onto the north terrace to watch the fireworks. From thatterrace,wewereateyelevelandthedisplaywasamazing.
Duringthehorseshow,thehouseisfullandmanyoftheguestsarefriendsoftheDuke’sorcompetitorsintheevents.OnefaithfulguestisCountAndrassy,aclose relation of theWindsors’. Iwould alwaysmake “Andrassy Pudding” asoneofthespecialdessertsduringhisstay.Basically,achocolatesoufflé,turnedoutandcooled,isslicedandfilledwithareallyrichthickchocolatecream.Thesidesarecoatedwiththechocolatecreamanddustedwithchocolateshavings.Itischocolatyandexcessiveandeveryoneeatsitup.Evenme.
CHIVECREAMDRESSING
¼Knorrchickenbouilloncube¼cupwater½cupmayonnaise
2tablespoonschoppedfreshchives
½lemon,juicedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Inasmallpanoveralowheat,dissolvethebouilloncubeinthewaterandthenremovefromtheheat.Putthemayonnaiseinalargebowl,andwhiskinthewarmbroth.Addthechoppedchivesandlemonjuice,andadjusttheseasoningwiththesaltandpepper.2.Refrigeratethedressinguntilneeded.Keepsforuptothreedays.
MAKES1CUP
ROASTSPRINGLEGOFLAMB
1bone-inlegoflamb,4to4½pounds6clovesgarlic,smashed
1tablespoonfreshordriedrosemary
1teaspoonfreshordriedthymeleavesKoshersaltandcoarselygroundblackpepper¼cupoliveoil2largecarrots,cutintolargepieces1largeonion,peeledandcutintolargepieces3ribscelery,cutintolargepieces
1tablespoonall-purposeflour
1½cupschickenbroth1cupredwine1bayleaf
1tablespoonredcurrantjelly1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Removethelambfromtherefrigerator,andallowittocometoroomtemperature.Rubthegarlic,rosemary,andthymealloverthelamb,andseasonliberallywiththesaltandpepper.Heattheoilinalargeroastingpanoverhighheat.Carefullyplacethelambintotheroastingpan,and,usingtongs,searallsidesofthemeatuntilgoldenbrown.Removethelambfromtheroastingpanandsetaside.
2.Reducetheheattomedium,andaddthecarrots,onions,andcelerytotheroastingpan.Stirbriefly.Makeabedwiththevegetables,andplacethelegoflambontopofthevegetables.Placetheroastingpaninthecenteroftheoven.Roastthelambfor45minutesuncoveredandthenanadditional45minutescoveredwithaluminumfoiluntilitreachesaninternaltemperatureof160degreesto170degrees.Removethelambfromtheoven,andliftitontoa
cleanplate.Allowtheroasttorest,covered,forabout20minutes.3.Carefullystrainoffmostoftheexcessfatfromtheroastingpan.Youshouldhaveabout¼cupleftinthebottomalongwiththevegetables.Returnthepantothestovetop,andoverlowheat,addtheflourandstir.Nextstirinthechickenbrothandredwine,andaddthebayleafandredcurrantjelly.Increasetheheat,bringthesaucetoaboil,andadjusttheseasoning.Pouranyaccumulatedjuicesfromthelambintothesauce.Removethevegetablestoawarmservingplatter,andstrainthesauceintoasauceboat.Slicethemeatthinlyandservewiththesauceandvegetables.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
BEEFWELLINGTON
½stick(¼cup)butter2teaspoonssalt,divided1smallonion,finelychopped1poundportabellamushrooms,blendedtopasteinafoodprocessor¼cupheavycream1tablespoonWorcestershiresauce
1teaspooncoarselygroundblackpepper
½teaspoonEnglishmustardpowder¼teaspoonceleryseeds13-pound,center-cutbeeftenderloin¼cupoliveoil1(14-ounce)boxDufourclassicpuffpastryor1(17-ounce)boxPepperidgeFarmpuffpastry8ouncesfoiegras,oragoodliverpâté1egg,beaten1.Preheattheovento400degrees.Heatalargesautépanovermediumheat.Add½stickbutter,1teaspoonsalt,andtheonion.Sautéuntiltheonionissoftenedandtranslucent.Addthemushroomstothesautépan,andcookuntiltheyhavereleasedalltheirliquidandthepanisrelativelydry.AddthecreamandWorcestershiresauce,andcookuntilreducedandthemixturehasformedasmoothpaste.Checkthemixtureforseasoning,andsetasidetocool.
2.Inasmallbowl,mixtogethertheremainingteaspoonofsalt,theblackpepper,mustardpowder,andceleryseeds.Rubthespicemixtureonallsidesofthetenderloin.Inanonstickfryingpanlargeenoughtoholdthetenderloin,heattheoliveoiluntilitstartstosmoke.Searthebeefonallsides.Removeandletthebeefcoolcompletely.
3.Rolloutthepuffpastryintoarectanglelargeenoughtoenclosethebeeftenderloinwiththelongsideparalleltoyourbody.Spreadthecooledmushroommixtureoverthepastry,leavingatleast3inchesaroundtheedges.Slicethefoiegrasorliverpaté,andlayitdownthehorizontalcenterofthepastry.Placethetenderloinontop.
4.Brushthelongedgesofthepastrywithsomebeatenegg,andfoldoverthemushroommixtureandtenderloin,tuckingintheends.Presstheedgestogethertoseal.Placethetenderloinseamsidedownonabakingsheet,and
brushthetopandsidesofthepastrywiththeremainingbeatenegg.5.Bakethetenderloinfor10minutes.Reducetheheatto350degrees,andcookfor20minuteslonger,oruntilthepastryisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,andallowthebeeftorestforatleast5minutesbeforeslicing.Trimofftheendsofthepastry,andcutintosixevenslicestoserve.BeefWellingtoncanbeaccompaniedbyaMadeirawinesauceoraclassicHollandaise.
MAKES6SERVINGS
BeefWellington,ChouxàlaCherbourg
RACKOFLAMBWITHGARLIC,ROSEMARY,ANDJUNIPER
IntheUKwewoulduseEnglishorWelshlambforthisdish,andatBalmoralweusedtheSoaylambofftheestate.IuseColoradolambintheUS,whichyieldsalargechop,perfectforthisdish.Thejuniperberriesgiveasharp,almostwoodyflavorwhencrushed.
1rackoflamb,approximately1½pounds10juniperberries5clovesgarlic
1teaspoonfreshchoppedrosemary
2tablespoonsoliveoil,dividedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1tablespoonfinelychoppedonion
¼cupslicedwildmushrooms
1teaspoonall-purposeflour¼teaspoontomatopaste1cuplamborchickenbroth,or½brothmixedwith½cupwhitewine1.Scorethefatsideoftherackoflambbycuttingdiagonal,¼-inchslitsaboutaninchapart.Thiswillallowthefattocrispupalittlewhiletherackcooksandalsoallowthemarinadetogetintothemeat.Usingamortarandpestle,crushthejuniperberriesandgarlictoapaste.Addtherosemaryand1tablespoonoliveoil.Spreadthemixtureoverthelamb.Placethelambinaziplockbag,andrefrigerateforupto24hours.Removefromtherefrigerator1hourbeforecooking.
2.Preheattheovento400degrees.Inalargesautépan,heattheremaining1tablespoonoil.Seasonthelambliberallywiththesaltandpepper,andseartherackonallsides.Thatshouldtakeabout5minutes.Placethelambintheoven,uncovered,for20minutes,oruntiltheinternaltemperaturereaches135degrees.Turnitoncemidwaythroughcooking.Removethelambfromthesautépantoaplateandletitrestfor10minutesbeforeslicing.
3.Addtheonionandmushroomstothefryingpan,andoverhighheat,cookuntiltranslucent.Addtheflourandtomatopaste,andslowlystirinthebroth,whiskingconstantlytoavoidlumps.Allowthesaucetosimmerandslightlyreduce,about5minutes.Adjusttheseasoningsandservewiththeslicedlamb.
MAKES2SERVINGS
SOLEMURAT
TheQueenprobablyhadthisdishonceaweek.AlthoughitiscalledSoleMurat,wewouldsometimesprepare itwith shrimp insteadof sole. It’sdeliciousbothways. I think HerMajesty liked the fact that this was a complete meal, withsautéedartichokeheartsandcrispyfriedpotatoes.Allweservedalongsidewasasimplegreensaladandbowloffreshfruit.
4cupsvegetableoil
2largerussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces1tablespoonplus¼cupunsaltedbutterforbrownbuttersauce¼cupoliveoil8Doversolefillets,cutinto1½-inchstripsonthebiasor1½poundsofshrimp,21to25count1cupall-purposeflourKoshersaltandgroundwhitepepper½cupfreshorfrozenartichokebottoms,quartered¼cupfinelychoppedparsley1lemon,juiceonly
1.Heatthevegetableoilto250degreesinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Meanwhile,patthepotatoesdrywithapapertowel.Thiswillhelpreduceanyspatteringwhenthepotatoesarefried.Placethepotatoesintothehotoilandcookuntilthepotatoesaresoft,butnotcolored.Liftthemoutontoatraylinedwithpapertowelsandallowthemtocool.Shutofftheheatundertheoilandsettheoilaside.Itwillbeusedagaintorefrythepotatoescrispybrown.
2.Melt1tablespoonbutterwiththeoliveoilinaheavysautépanoverhighheatuntilthebutterishot,butnotbrown.Dredgethesolefilletsintotheflour,makingsuretheyarecoatedonbothsides,andcarefullyplacethemintotheoil.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper,andcookuntilgoldenonthebottom,aboutthreeminutesorlessifthefilletsarethin.Turnthesoleoverandcookuntilgolden.Removethefishfromthepantoawarmplateandkeepwarm.Addthequarteredartichokeheartstothepan,andwarmthem,browningslightly.Removetoaplateandkeepwarm.
3.Heatthefryingoilbackto375degrees.Carefullydropthepotatoesbackintothehotoil,andcook5minutes,untilgoldenandcrispy.Drainthehotpotatoes
onpapertowels,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Atthesametime,heattheremainingbutterinthesautépanuntilitturnsbrownandsmellsslightlynutty.Placethefishonaservingplate,andtopwiththeartichokesandcrispypotatoes.Drizzlethebrownbutteroverthefishandvegetables;dustwiththeparsleyandasqueezeoflemonjuice.Serveimmediately.
MAKES4SERVINGS
SALMONENCROÛTE
1tablespoonoliveoil
2clovesgarlic,crushed2(9ounces)bagsfreshleafspinach⅛teaspoongroundnutmegSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1boxpuffpastry,thawed(about12ounces)
2roundsgarlic-and-herb-flavoredBoursincheese1filletskinnedsalmon,about3pounds2eggsyolks,beatenDillCreamSauce(recipepage64)1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Heattheoliveoilinaheavy-bottomedpanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Addthegarlicandsautéforseveralseconds.Thenaddthespinachfollowedbythenutmeg.Stirforseveralminutesuntilthespinachhaswilted.Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.Strainintoasmallcolandertodrainoffanyexcesswater,andallowthespinachtocool.
2.Placeonesheetofpuffpastryontopoftheother,sprinklingabitofcoldwaterbetweenthesheetstoholdthemtogether.Rolloutthepastrytoa20×10-inchrectangle.CrumbletheBoursinintosmallpieces,andlaythepiecesalongthecenterofthepuffpastrylengthwise,leavingtwoinchesplainattheends.Laythespinachontopofthecheese.Laythesalmonfilletontopofthespinach,facedown,andbrushtheedgesofthepastrywithhalfthebeateneggyolks.
3.Wrapthepastryoverthesalmon,trimtheedges,andturnthewholepackageupsidedownontoabakingsheetlargeenoughtoaccommodateit.Theseamshouldbeunderneath.Brushthetopofthepastrywiththeremainingeggyolks.Bakefor35minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removethesalmonfromtheoven,andallowittocoolslightlybeforeslicingandserving.ServewithHollandaiseorDillCreamSauce.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
ROASTEDSPRINGVEGETABLES
2poundssmallred-skinpotatoes,washedandquartered2poundscarrots,cutinto¾-inchrounds
4largefennelbulbs
2leeks,cleanedandslicedinto½-inchrounds¾cupoliveoil2clovesgarlic,crushed1tablespoonkoshersalt
2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper
1bunchfreshtarragon,finelychopped1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Placethepotatoesandcarrotsinalargemixingbowl.Trimthefennelbulbsofanybrownouterleaves,andchopoffthefronds.Youjustwanttousethebulbhere.Cutthebulbsinhalfvertically,andthencuteachhalfintovertical½-inchwedges.Addthefennelandleekstothemixingbowlwiththepotatoesandcarrots.
2.Inaseparatesmallerbowl,addtheoil,garlic,salt,andpepper,andwhisktocombine.Pourthismixtureoverthevegetablesandstir,coatingallthevegetableswell.Transferthecontentstoabakingsheet,andbakethevegetablesfor45minutesto1hour,oruntiltheyaretenderandslightlybrownedaroundtheedges.
3.Spoonthevegetablesontoaservingplatter,andgarnishwiththechoppedtarragonbeforeserving.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
RoastedSpringVegetables(left),Normandy-StyleBoulangèrePotatoes(front),PetitPoisàlaFrançais(French-stylepeas)
(top)
PETITPOISÀLAFRANÇAIS(French-stylepeas)
Freshlyshelledpeasbrought toboilandservedwithbutterandchopped freshmint are delicious through the spring and summermonths. But these French-stylepeasarealsoagreatwayofusingfrozenpeasandareafinealternativeinthisrecipe,whichemploysatraditionalbraisingmethod.Intimespast,thepeaswould be stewed for so long they would turn grey. They still tasted good,however.
6slicesbacon,diced1largeonion,thinlysliced¼headiceberglettuce,shredded1½poundsfrozengreenpeas1teaspoonsalt3tablespoonssugar1pinchfreshlygroundpepper
1chickenbouilloncube
2cupswater(orenoughtocover)2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened
3tablespoonsall-purposeflour1smallbunchfreshmint,chopped1.Ina2-quartsaucepanovermediumheat,frythebaconslowlyuntilitissoftandsomeofthefathasbeenrendered.Stirintheslicedonionsandlettuce,andletthemsimmerforabout5minutes.Addthepeas,salt,sugar,pepper,chickenbouilloncube,andwatertocover.Continuetocookslowlyuntilthebouilloncubehasdissolvedandthepeasareheatedthroughanddonetothedesireddegreeoffirmness,about5to10minutes.
2.Meanwhile,inasmallmixingbowl,combinethebutterandflour.Addthebutterandflourmixturetothepeasandbringtoaboil.Removefromtheheat
andstir.Garnishwithmintandserveimmediately.
MAKES6SERVINGS
DILLCREAMSAUCE
4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1cupslicedbuttonmushrooms
1cupfinelydicedonions
3clovesgarlic,crushed¼cupall-purposeflour
1cupwater
1cupwhitewineor1extracupwater
1chickenbouilloncube1lemon,juiced½cupchoppedfreshdillSaltandfreshlygroundpepperMeltthebutterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Addthemushrooms,onions,andgarlic.Sautéuntiltheonionsstarttosoften.Stirintheflour,thenthewater,wine,andbouilloncube.Simmerfor10minutesoruntilthemixturethickenstoasauceconsistency.Addthelemonjuice,dill,andsaltandpepper.Tastetocorrectseasonings.
MAKES6SERVINGS
VANILLAICECREAM
This is my base recipe. You can keep it as vanilla, but could also melt eightouncesofchocolateinabowlandthenpouritovertheicecreambaseassoonasitcoatsthebackofthespoon.Whiskandthenchill.Forcoffeeicecream,addonetablespoonofinstantcoffeetotheeggandsugarmix.Itwilldissolvewhentheboilingmilkispouredonit.TogetsomethinglikethequalityoficecreamweusedatWindsorwithmilk fromtheroyaldairies, Iwhisk inasix-ouncejarofEnglishclottedcreamtothechilledbase.Thenyouarereadytofreezeitintoaremarkablebowloficecream.
6eggyolks
1wholeegg
½cupvanillasugar(seepage76)2½cupswholemilk1vanillabeanor1teaspoonvanillaextract1¼cupsheavycream1.Inalargemixingbowl,beattheeggyolks,wholeegg,andvanillasugaruntilthemixturestartstolightenincolor.Atthesametime,putthemilkandvanillabeanorvanillaextractintoaheavysaucepan,andbringthemilktoasimmeroveralowflame.Removethemilkfromtheheatassoonasitsimmers,andveryslowlypouritontotheeggmixture,whiskingallthetime.Thisslowpourensuresthattheeggyolksdon’tcurdle.
2.Returnthemilk,egg,andsugarmixturebacktothesaucepanonthestoveoverlowheat.Slowlycookthemixture,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoonoverthewholebottomofthepanuntilthemilkthickensenoughtocoatthebackofawoodenspoon.Itshouldhaveathick,creamyconsistency.
3.Strainthemixturethroughasievetobreakupanylumps,andpouritintoacleanbowl.Refrigerateuntilcold.Ifyouhaveusedavanillapod,removeitnowandsplititdownthemiddle.Scrapeouttheseedsintothecustardmixture.
4.Whenthecustardiscompletelycold,whisktheheavycreamtosoftpeaksandfolditintothecustard.Pourthecustardintoanelectricicecreammachine,
andchurnfollowingthemanufacturer’sinstructions.
MAKES8SERVINGS
ANDRASSYPUDDING
Ifyou’vebeenafraidofmakingsoufflés,thisisagreatrecipetobeginwith.Ifitdoesn’triseproperly,it’sokay,becauseyouaregoingtoletitsinkagainbeforeyouserveit.Eventuallyyouwillbemakingthemostamazingchocolatesoufflésandwillwanttorushthemtothetabletoimpressyourguests,ratherthanlettingthemsinkandgocoldforthisdish.
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter(forgreasingthesoufflédish),softenedSoufflé¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter⅓cupgranulatedsugar⅓cupcocoapowder¼cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsmilk6eggs,separatedFrosting¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter⅓cupgranulatedsugar⅓cupcocoapowder¼cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsmilk
6eggyolks
1(4-ounce)barGhirardellimilkchocolate,finelygratedWhippedcream1.Preheattheovento400degreesandplaceabakingrackontothemiddleshelfoftheoven.Makesurethetoprackisremovedtoallowroomforthesoufflétorise.Greasean8-inchsoufflédishwiththebutter,leavingalipofbutterallalongthetopedge.
2.Forthesoufflé,preparethebasebymeltingthebutterinaheavysaucepanandaddingthesugar,cocoapowder,andflour.Whiskuntilcombined,andthengraduallyincorporatethemilktoformasmoothsauce.Removefromtheheat,andwhiskintheeggyolks.Pourthemixtureintoalargebowl,andallowittocoolforabout15minutes.
3.Inaseparatebowl,whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andfoldthemintothesoufflébase.Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedsoufflédish,andbakefor18minutesoruntilwellrisen.Removethesouffléfromtheovenandsetitonacoolingrack.Allowthesoufflétocoolandsink.Whileitisstillwarm,turnthesouffléoutontothecoolingrack,andletitcoolcompletely.
4.Forthefrosting,meltthebutterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Addthesugar,cocoapowder,andflour,andwhiskuntilcombined.Graduallyincorporatethemilktoformasmoothsauce.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheeggyolks.Pourthemixintoalargebowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andallowthesoufflétocool.
5.Slicethesouffléinhalfhorizontally,creatingtwolayers,andspreadsomeofthefrostingontothebottomlayer.Replacethetoplayerandspreadtheremainingfrostingoverthetopandsidesofthesoufflé.Placethesoufflécarefullyontoaservingplate,andsprinklethefinelygratedchocolateontothetopandsidesofthepudding.Servewithwhippedcream.
MAKES10SERVINGS
CREPESISLANDAISE
The Duke of Edinburgh was served this dish on a state visit to Iceland. Heenjoyed it so much that he asked for the recipe and royal chefs have beenmakingthesecrepeseversince.
1cupall-purposeflour
¼teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonsalt½teaspoonbakingsoda
3eggs
2½cupsmilk
1teaspoonvanillapaste½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,melted¼cupseedlessraspberryjam1cupheavycream,whipped2tablespoonspowderedsugar,fordusting1.Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andsodaintoalargebowl.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheeggs,milk,andvanillapaste.Addtheeggandmilkmixturetothedryingredients,andstiruntilcombined.
2.Addthemeltedbutteralittleatatimetoan8-inchcrepepanorfryingpan,andheatoverhighheat.Spoonabout2tablespoonsofthebatterintothepan,andallowittospreadandset.Flipthecrepeovertocooktheotherside,andwhendone,removeittoaplatetocoolslightly.Thiswholeprocessshouldtakelessthanaminute.Repeatwiththerestofthebatter.
3.Spreadthejamoverthetopofeachpancake,andaddaspoonfulofwhippedcream.Foldthepancakeinhalftwicesothatyouhaveaneattriangle,anddustitwiththepowderedsugar.Serveimmediately.
MAKES6SERVINGS
COFFEEMOUSSE
Ican’ttellyouhowmanytimesweforgottosendthechocolatecoveredcoffeebeansdowntoWindsorintheAscotboxesonaFriday.ItwasthenafranticrushtofindanyBuckinghamPalacestaffthatlivedatWindsorto“dropbythecastlekitchen”on theirwayhome.Moreoften thannot, thebeanswouldbeused tocreate thiscoffeemousse. It is theperfectmake-aheaddessert that looksquiteelegant but is dead easy. Buy more than you need of the chocolate coveredcoffeebeans—youcansnackwhileyou’reworking.
1packetKnoxunflavoredgelatin
1¼cupswholemilk,divided
2eggyolks
⅓cupgranulatedsugar
1teaspooninstantcoffeegranules¾cupheavycream
2eggwhites
½cupdarkchocolate-coveredcoffeebeans,dividedWhippedcream1.Inabowllargeenoughtoholdalltheingredients,dissolvethegelatinin¼cupcoldmilk.Inaseparatebowl,addtheeggyolks,sugar,andinstantcoffee.Whiskuntilcombined.Bringtheremaining1cupmilktotheboilinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan,andslowlypouritontotheeggmixture,whiskingconstantly.Returnthemixturetothesaucepan,andoverlowheat,stiruntil
themixturestartstothickenandcoatthebackofthespoon.Removefromtheheat,andpourthemixtureoverthegelatin.Whiskuntilallingredientsarecombined.Strainthecoffeecustardmixtureintoalargebowl,andrefrigerateuntilcoldandstartingtoset.
2.Inalargebowl,whipthecreamuntilstiff.Inanotherbowl,whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Alternatingwiththewhippedcream,carefullyfoldtheeggwhitesintothecoffeecustard.Spoonhalfthemixtureintoasix-cupservingdish,andsprinkle¼cupchocolatecoffeebeansontop.Coverwiththeremainingcustard.Refrigeratethemousseuntilfirm.
3.Toserve,garnishwithrosettesofwhippedcreamandtheremaining¼cupchocolatecoffeebeanssprinkledoverthetop.
MAKES6SERVINGS
BRANDYSNAPS
Theselight,crunchytuile-likerolledcookiesareapopularteacakeanddessert.UsingastartipIwouldpipewhippedcreamintohalfofthebrandysnapsandtheotherhalfIwouldsendupplain,withoutcream.OthertimesIwouldshapethe brandy snaps around cream horn molds (cones) and make brandy snapcornets.Thesewouldbearrangedneatlyintoaglassfingerbowlandthenfilledwithicecreamfortheroyaltable.IthinkthatistheclosesttheQueenevercametoeatingicecreamoutofacone.
The brandy snaps can also be shaped around a tartlet mold to create abasketforslicedfruit.Inthatcase,Iwouldusuallybrushtheinsidewithmeltedchocolateand let it sethard first. It stops thecookie fromgetting soggywhenyouserveit.
Goldensyruphastheconsistencyofcornsyrupandhasacleargoldencolor.It’s made from evaporated sugar cane juice and has a rich flavor. A goodsubstituteisKingbrandsyrup,amixtureofcornandinvertsugarsyrupthatiswidelysoldthroughouttheUnitedStates.Cornsyrupwillworktoo,butwillnotgivethegoldencolor.
½cupDemerarasugar(turbinadosugarwillworkasanalternative)
8tablespoonsgoldensyrup
1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter1⅛cupsall-purposeflour
1teaspoongroundginger
1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Inamedium-size,heavy-bottomedsaucepan,meltthesugar,syrup,butter,flour,andgingertogetheroveralowheatuntilcombined.Becarefulnottooverheat;themixjustneedstobehotenoughtomeltthebutter.Greasealargebakingsheetoruseasilpatnonstickbaking
sheet.2.Spoonaheapingtablespoonofthecookiemixontothebakingsheet,leavingabout6inchesbetweeneachonetoallowforthemixturetospread.Bakefor6minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown;thenremovethebakingsheetfromtheoven,andletthebrandysnapscooljustslightly.
3.Whenthebrandysnapshaveset,butarestillwarmandcanbeeasilyliftedoffthebakingsheet,quicklyeaseoneatatimeoffwithaflatmetalspatulaandrollarounda¾-inchwoodendowelorawoodenspoonhandletocreatecylinders.Placeonabakingracktohardencompletely,about2minutes,andtheneasethemoffthewoodenspoon.
4.Repeattheprocess.Ifthebrandysnapsstarttobreakasyourollthem,returnthetraytotheovenforafewminutesandtheywillsoftenagain.
MAKESABOUT30SNAPS
CRÈMEBRÛLÉE
ThisisoneofPrinceAndrew’sfavoritedesserts.OftenitwouldbeservedwithSandringham oranges. The natural acidity of the oranges would balance thesweetnessofthebrûlée.Forachangewewouldsometimesputpeeledgrapesonthe bottomof the brûlée before baking and give it a fancy newname—CrèmeBrûléeauRaisin.
6eggyolks
4tablespoonsgranulatedsugar
1vanillapodor½teaspoonvanillaextract2cupsheavycream
4tablespoonsgranulatedvanillasugar
(seepage76)fortopping
1.Preheattheovento325degrees.Inalargemixingbowl,beattheeggyolksandsugaruntiltheyturnalightyellowcolor.Addthevanillapodorextract.
2.Inaseparateheavy-bottomedsaucepan,bringtheheavycreamtoasimmer.Onceheated,immediatelyremoveitfromtheheat,andslowlypouritintotheeggyolkandsugarmixture,whiskingconstantly.
3.Puttheliquidbackintothesaucepansetoverlowheat,andwhiskorstirthemilkmixtureasitcooks,rememberingtostiracrossthewholesurfaceofthepantokeepthedevelopingcustardfromforminglumps.Keepstirringuntilthecustardthickenstotheconsistencyofheavycream.(Don’tbeimpatient;thissometimestakesawhile.)Thiscustarddoesmostofitscookingontopofthestove,notintheoven,soyoureallywantittobequitethickatthispoint.
4.Strainthecustardintoacleanbowl.Ifyouusedavanillapod,removeit,split
itopen,andscrapetheseedsfrominsidethepodintothecustard.5.Dividethecustardequallyamongsixsmallramekins.Placetheramekinsinalargerpan,andfillthepanwithhottapwaterhalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.
6.Bakeintheovenfor15minutes,oruntilthecustardjiggleslikeJell-Owhenyougiveitagentleshake.Removetheramekinsfromthewaterbath,andletthemcoolcompletelyintherefrigeratorforatleast3hours.
7.Toserve,lightlysprinklethetopsofeachramekinwithgranulatedvanillasugar,andplacethemunderahotbroileruntilthesugarcaramelizes,watchingcarefullysonottoletthesugarburn.
MAKES6SERVINGS
ENGLISHPANCAKES
EnglishpancakesaredifferentfromAmericanpancakes.Theyaremuchthinnerand contain no leavening. They are closer to a French crepe, only slightlythicker.TraditionallytheyareservedonShroveTuesday,butareenjoyedyear-round.Theyarebestservedstraightfromthepan.Inmyhousetheraceistotrytomakethemfasterthanmychildrencaneatthem.
2cupsall-purposeflour
1½tablespoonsextra-finegranulatedsugarPinchofsalt1egg
2eggyolks
2½cupsmilk2tablespoonsvegetableoil,divided½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutterGranulatedsugar,lemons,andorangesforgarnish1.Inalargemixingbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sugar,andsalt.Addtheeggandeggyolks,followedbythemilkand1tablespoonofthevegetableoil.Continuewhiskinguntiltherearenolumps.Inaseparatesmallsaucepan,meltthebutteruntilitisgoldenbrown,andwhiskitintothepancakemix.Leavethebattertorestforabout15minutes.
2.Heatan8-inchfryingpanuntilhot,andaddtheremaining1tablespoonvegetableoil,tiltingthepantospreadtheoilacrossthebottom.Whentheoilstartstosmoke,pourtheexcessintoasmallbowlforlateruse.Returnthepantotheheat.Younowhaveasheercoatingofoilremainingonthepan.
3.Pour2tablespoonsofthebatterintothepancakepan,tiltingthepantocoatthebottomevenly.Cookuntiltheundersideofthepancakeisgoldenbrown,andthen,usingaspatula,turnitoverandcooktheotherside.Turnthepancakeoutontoanupturneddinnerplate.Repeatuntilthereisnomorebatter,usingabitofthereservedoilifthepanappearstobedry,orifthe
pancakesbegintostick.Continuetostackpancakesontopofeachotheronyourdinnerplate.
4.Whenfinished,servethepancakesstraightawaywiththesugarforsprinklingandthelemonandorangewedgesonthesideforsqueezingonthepancakes.
5.Ifyouwanttomakethepancakesinadvance,lightlybutteranovenprooftray,andsprinkleeachpancakewithsugarafteryoufinishcookingit.Foldthepancakesinhalfandthenhalfagain,arrangingthemallneatlyonthetray.Coverthetraywithfoilandbakeat350degreesforabout15minutes.Servewiththelemonandorangewedges.
MAKES20(8-INCH)PANCAKES
ROYALBIRTHDAYCAKE
Anyleftover frostingcanbechilled, thenrolledintoballsanddippedincocoapowder,coconut,ornibbedalmonds.Eat these trufflesoutrightoruse themtodecoratethetopofyourcake.
Filling1poundGhirardellisemisweetchocolate,choppedanddivided2cups(1pint)heavycream,divided
Spongecake6eggyolks
2eggs
½cupsugar⅓cupplus2teaspoonsall-purposeflour
4tablespoonsDutchcocoapowder½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled1.Forthefilling,prepareitatleastsixhoursbeforebakingthecake.Puthalfthechoppedchocolateintoamixingbowl.Inaseparatesaucepan,bringhalftheheavycreamtoasimmer.Pourthehotcreamontothechocolate,lettingthechocolatemelt.Whiskituntilsmoothandwellincorporated.Refrigerateuntilitcoolsandthickenstotheconsistencyofaspreadableicing.
2.Preheattheovento350degrees.3.Forthecake,butteran8-inchroundcakepanandlineitwithbutteredparchmentpaper.Setametalmixingbowloverasaucepanhalffilledwithsimmeringwater.Thewatershouldn’ttouchthebottomofthemixingbowl.Addtheeggyolks,eggs,andsugartothemixingbowl,andwhisktogether,
allowingtheheatfromthesimmeringwatertowarmthemixture.Inaseparatebowl,sifttheflourandcocoatogether.
4.Keepwhiskingtheeggmixtureuntilitdoublesinvolume.Gentlyfoldintheflourandcocoamixture.Thenfoldinthecooledbutter.Spoonthecakebatterintothepreparedcakepan,andbakefor20minutes,oruntilthecakespringsbackslightlywhenpressed.Removethecakefromtheovenontoacoolingrack.
5.Forthetopping,puttheremaininghalfofthechoppedchocolateintoamixingbowl.Inaseparatesaucepan,bringtheremainingheavycreamtoasimmer.Pourthehotcreamontothechocolate,lettingthechocolatemelt.Whiskituntilsmoothandwellincorporated,andthensetitasidewhileyouassemblethecake.
TheQueen’sbirthdaytea:Scones,RoyalBirthdayCake,teasandwiches,RaspberryTartlets6.Fortheassembly,slicethespongecakeintothreehorizontallayers.Placethebottomlayeronacoolingrack.Usingtherefrigeratedicing,topthebottomdiscswithathicklayeroficing,andthenaddthenextlayerof
spongecakeandanotherthicklayeroficing.Placethetopofthecakeoverthesecondlayeroficing.
7.Ladlethewarmchocolateicingoverthetopofthespongecake,allowingittorundownthesides.Coolthecakeforatleast2hoursbeforedecoratingwithchocolate.
MAKES10SERVINGS
VANILLASUGAR
Vanilla beans, or pods as we call them in England, are expensive, but usingthem thiswaymakes themveryeconomicaland theywill lastayear.ThebestonesareTahitianandBourbon.IliketousetheBourbonpodsbecausetheyarea lotsweeterandcontainmoreseeds.Bothworkwell in thisrecipe, justmakesuretheonesyoubuyareoilytotouch,smellfragrant,andarenotbrittleordry.
5cupsgranulatedsugar
4vanillabeans
1.Pourthesugarintoan8-cupTupperwarecontainerwithatightfittinglid.Layoneofthebeansflatonachoppingboardandholdoneend.Carefullycutopenthebeandownthecenterlengthwise,andscrapeoutthetinyblackseeds.Placethebeanandseedsintothesugar;repeattheprocesswithallofthebeans.
2.Placethelidonthecontainer,andcoverwithplasticwrap.Shakethecontainerforaboutaminute,andstoreinthepantryforatleastaweek.Thesugarisnowreadytouse.Rememberthatifyoutake1tablespoonofvanillasugaroutofthecontainer,youmustreplaceitwith1tablespoonofregulargranulatedsugar,andthenshakethecontaineragain.Thiswillmaintainyoursourceofvanillasugarforabout1year.Afterthat,youwillneedtopurchasemorebeans.
3.Servethesugarinasmallbowlwithwhippedcreamalongsidefreshstrawberries,sprinkleitoveracrèmebrûlée,anduseitinbaking.
MAKES5CUPS
LEMONMILLE-FEUILLEWITHRHUBARBCOULIS
1boxphyllodough(12ounces)1egg,beaten½poundrhubarb,about4sticks
1cupwater
½cupplus1tablespoongranulatedsugar1quarter-sizeslicefreshginger,peeled1recipelemoncheese(recipepage80)1tablespoonpowderedsugar,forgarnishLemonMille-FeuillewithRhubarbCoulis1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Unrollthephyllodoughandlayoutonesheet.Brushwiththebeateneggandlayanothersheetontop.Repeatsothatyouhavethreesheetsthick.Usinga3-inchroundcookiecutter,cutout18disks.Usemorephyllosheetsifneeded.Transferthediskstoacookiesheet,andbakeforabout8minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Removetoacoolingrack.2.Forthecoulis,wipetherhubarbcleanwithapapertowelandtrimtheedges.Cuttherhubarbinto½-inchpiecesandputthemintoalargepan.Addthewaterand½cupsugarandbringtoaboil.Reducetoasimmer,stirringconstantly,untiltherhubarbsoftens.Straintherhubarb,reservingthepoachingliquid.Pureetherhubarbinablenderorfoodprocessor,addingalittleofthereservedliquiduntiltherhubarbachievesasaucelikeconsistency.Smashthegingertoafinepulpandaddittotherhubarb.Taste,addingtheremaining1tablespoonsugar,ifdesired.Refrigerateforabout2hours.
3.Buildyourmillefeuille.Placeateaspoonoflemoncheeseinthecenterofeachplateandtopwithadiskofcookedphyllo.Addanotherteaspoonoflemoncheesefollowedbyaseconddisk.Topwithathirdlayeroflemoncheeseandfinishwithanotherdiskofcookedphyllo.Spoontherhubarbcoulisaroundthebaseofthemillefeuille,dustthetopdiskofphyllowithpowderedsugar,andserve.
MAKES6SERVINGS
LEMONCHEESE
Lemoncheeseisnottobeconfusedwithlemoncurd.Lemoncurdisusuallysetwith pectin or cornstarch and was the traditional filling, along with jam, forEnglishscones.Lemoncheeseusesmoreeggsandismuchricher in flavor,aswellasalotthicker.Lemoncheesecanbepipedintotartlets,scones,andotherpastrygoods;lemoncurdcan’t.Iuseorganiceggs,asthefeedoftenresultsinacreamieryellowyolk,whichwillinturngivemealemon-coloredcheese.
Microplanes have replaced old box graters in most cooks’ kitchens. Theyproduce a fine shaving of lemon zest that not only adds extra flavor, but alsoaids in thecoloring. I’ve listedvanillabeanpasteasoneof the ingredients. Itisn’tascommonasvanillaextract,but I’vehadgood luck finding itatWholeFoods andother gourmetmarkets.Finally, theEuropean-style butter (Englishbutterifyoucangetit),withitscreamiertasteandsilkiertexturecausedbytheslowerandlongerchurning,helpsproducethisvelvetylemoncheese.
½cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,about3lemons½cupgranulatedsugar3eggs3eggyolks2teaspoonslemonzest1pinchofsalt
1teaspoonvanillapaste
1cupEuropeanunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces1.Setalargemetalbowloverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Makesurethebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.Addthelemonjuice,sugar,eggs,yolks,zest,andsalt.Whisktheingredientstogetherandkeepstirringuntilthemixturestartstothicken.Keepmovingthemixturewiththewhiskasitcooksonthebottomofthebowl.2.Removethemixturefromtheheatonceithasthickenedtotheconsistencyofsourcream.Addthevanillapasteandbutter.Whiskuntilcombined.Coverwithbutteredparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateforatleast24hoursbeforeusing.Refrigeratedlemoncheesewillkeepforaboutoneweek.
MAKESENOUGHTOSPREADON16SCONESANDTO
GIVETOAFRIENDINAJARFOREASTER
MULBERRYGIN
Sloeginwasoneof theroyal favorite tipplesatshooting lunchesandmanyoftheguestswouldcarryahipflaskfilledwithit.ButthenDavidQuick,oneofmyfellowchefs,and I startedmakingmulberryginwith the ripeberries from thetrees inHomePark.Thepurplecolor isamazing.Once theginwasdecanted,theleftoverberriescouldthenbespoonedintoacasseroledishandtoppedwitha little crumblemix and baked for a heartywinter pudding or even added togamestew.WehadsomanyberriesthatIwoulddoubletherecipeandmakethemixinawinestoredemijohn.
5cupsripemulberries
1¼cupssugar1literbottlegin
1emptyginbottle
1.Washthemulberriesincoldwaterandpatdrywithapapertowel.Prickeachoftheberrieswithawoodentoothpickseveraltimestohelpreleasethejuices.Puthalftheberriesintotheemptybottleandaddhalfthesugar.Pourhalftheginovertheberriesandplacethecapon.
2.Addtheremaininghalfofthemulberriesandsugartothenowhalf-emptyginbottle.Replacethecap.
3.Shakebothbottlesseveraltimestodissolvethesugar,andsetthemupinacool,darkroomforuptothreemonths.Shakethebottleseachdayforthefirstweekandthenonceaweekafterthat.Decanttheginthroughapieceofcheeseclothintoclean,sterilizedbottles.Theginisreadytodrinkafteronemonth,butisbestafterthreemonths,andwillkeepforseveralyears.
MAKES2LITERS
CHAPTERFOUR
HMYBritannia
SummerontheHighSeas
Forforty-fouryearstheroyalyachtBritanniaservedQueenElizabethIIandherfamily. It took the royal family to 135 countries and on 968 official visits,steaming a total of 1,087,623 nautical miles. I—lucky chef—got to travel onsome of those trips. In fact, during my years as a palace chef, I traveled toAustralia andNewZealand,America,Malta, Sicily, Iceland, andFrance.AndwhileI’llneverbeahardysailor—trustmeonthis—workingonBritanniawasanamazingintroductiontopeopleandplacesallovertheglobe.
HMY Britannia was a glorious vessel, able to accommodate nearly sixtyguests for a royal dinner or asmany as two hundred people for a “meet andgreet”cocktailparty.Stemtosternshemeasuredmorethan412feet.Theyachtwasbeautifullyappointedwithlongsweepingstaircasesbetweenlevels;agrandformal dining room that hosted the rich, famous, and influential; and privatesuites used by honeymooning royals, including Princess Diana and PrinceCharles.
IspeakinthepasttensebecauseBritanniawasdecommissionedin1997.Bythat time the yacht needed major retrofitting. The expense to do this wasconsiderable,andtheBritishgovernmentdecidedthatthefundscouldbetterbeused elsewhere. So,Britannia was sent to Edinburgh, Scotland, where she isnowpermanentlyanchored.
IfWindsorCastledepictsall that isbestaboutEngland, thenBritanniaputthe“great”inGreatBritain.Theyachtwouldslowlyglideintoportwitheverysailordressedupinpurewhite“numberones”andlinedupsidebysidearoundtheyacht,likeawhiteribbonaroundanimmensegift.TheRoyalMarineBand,alsoinfulluniform,wouldbeplayingonthetopdeck“AnchorsAway”or“RuleBritannia.” The entrance of Britannia into port was always an unabashedmomentofpurespectacleandaroyalreminderofBritishimperialglory.Forallofusondeck,well,we stooda little taller andourheadswereheldhigh.We
wereproudtobeBritish.
SUMMERTIMESAILINGAt the beginning of August every year, Britannia sailed out of Portsmouth,heading toward the Isle ofWight for the annual CowesWeek racing regatta.CowesWeekyachtracingbeganin1826,andtodayisthelongestrunningandmostprestigiousinternationalsailingregattaintheworld.Theevent,whichlastseightdays, takesplace in theSolentwatersoffCowes.This localewaspickedfor its shelteredwatersandunusual tidal conditions thatmake it a challengingspotforevenexperiencedracers.Aboutonethousandyachtscompeteeachyearand theparticipatingyacht clubsassemble theirbest teamsof seasoned sailorswho compete in these waters year after year. The Duke of Edinburgh lovedcompetingintheracesandIthinkthatCowesWeekwashisabsolutelyfavoritetimeonboardBritannia.
AninformalroyalstaffphotoonWesternIsles.I’mactuallyinthefirstrowthistime—veryrare!
Forthestaff,CowesWeekwasrelativelyeasy.TheDukewasoftentheonlyroyalmember of the family on board, and entertainingwas primarily betweentheDuke and his friends, other avid yachtsmen.Tied to a buoy in theSolent,Britannia hadoneof thebestviewsof the races, and theDukeandhisguestswere enthusiastic spectators when they weren’t competing. The yacht wasanchored so close to the action that on one occasion another yacht namedScorchergotentangledinBritannia’swhiteflag,rippingitoffaltogether.
Her Majesty and the rest of the family would join Britannia later inSouthampton, and then the entire family would sail for ten days through the
Western Isles of Scotland. TheWestern Isles are beautiful. A lush landscapedottedwithgrazingsheepandgreen,green,green.Butallthatgreenmeanslotsof rain, and I’ll admit that occasionally I would long for a bit of sunshine.PrincessDianafelt thesameway. I rememberhercommiseratingwithmeonedayonboardBritannia.
Superman—withalittlehelp!
“Wealwaysmakeawrongturnonthistrip,don’tweDarren?”Sheaskedmeonce. “We should be making a left out of Southampton and heading to theMediterranean,notuptotheWesternIsles!”
I didn’t hear any complaints from the rest of the family, though. The tripwould be a leisurely zigzag from island to island, and the family woulddisembarkforapicniclunchorahikeabout.Occasionally,whiletheroyalswereashore, I’d watch the sailors fishing for mackerel, and if I was lucky, I’dpersuadethemtoletmehaveafewtocookfortheroyaltable.Therewerealsofishermenwhowouldpullupalongsidetheboatduringtheday,tryingtosellabitoftheircatch.Itwasreallyverypeaceful.Mealswerefamilyaffairsandtherewasverylittleofficialentertaining.OccasionallyWilliamandHarrywouldgrowrestless. I remember that once as a treat, a sailor dressedup asSuperman andwas tethered from a line of a helicopter flying overhead. The boys wereconvincedhewasflying.
ThehighlightofthetripwasvisitingtheQueenMotherattheCastleofMey.ThefamilywouldpullintoScrabsterHarboronaSundayatlunchtimeandheaduptothecastlefortea.InretrospectthesmalltownofThursowasquiteremote,but after docking at nearly deserted islands for a week, Thurso felt quitecontinentalwithitsonestreetlightandpayphone!Thefamilywouldrejointheyachtintheevening.AswesailedoutofScrabsterHarborwewouldpassbythe
Queen Mum’s castle. Britannia’s sailors would set off flares in front of thecastle,andthecastlestaffwould,inturn,setofffireworkstohonorthepassingship. Itwas a lovely tribute frommother todaughter andmade for a stunningnighttimesky.
SAILINGABROADOnforeigntrips,BritanniawastheQueen’shomeawayfromhome.ThoughHerMajestymightbeonforeignturf,shewouldalsouseBritanniatogiveherguestsasenseofGreatBritain.Sowedidn’tstraytoofarintolocalcuisine.Iimagine,infact,thatsomeofourguestsovertheyearsthoughtthetraditionalBritishfoodwe served was quite exotic! In order to replicate that English “feel,” theprovisions that stocked the yacht’s larder were often packed and sent by thepalacechefsbeforethetrip.
For example, if the tripwas toAustralia, thedryprovisions (coffeebeans,sugar, tea, flour,Bendixbittermints,Malvernwater,etc.)wouldbe loadedonboardwhiletheyachtwasdockedatPortsmouthasitreadiedtosail.ForthenextsixweeksBritanniawouldwendherwaydownunderanddock.Thenthechefswould be flown fromLondon toAustralia,with hampers of all the perishableitemsandkitchenequipmentwemightneed forHerMajesty’s tour stowedonboard.
VeryimportantBritanniasafetyinformation
Once abroad, all staff—whether on deck or on shore—represented HerMajesty and England. You were expected to be on best behavior and alwaysproperlyattired.Infact,eachstaffmemberwasfittedbeforehandwithamade-to-measuresuit.Ifyouweren’tinchefwhites,thenyouwereexpectedtobeinasuit—especiallywhenembarkinganddisembarkingBritannia.I’lladmititwasa
real pain having to shower and change into a suit just to pop ashore for apostcard.
TwoespeciallymemorabletripsformeonBritanniaweremyveryfirsttripin1984toFranceandalatertriptotheUnitedStatesin1991.Thatfirsttripwasashortoneacross theEnglishChannel inJuneof1984.Alongwithfortystaffmembers, I hopped the train fromLondon toPortsmouth.As Iwalked towardtheyachtthatfirsttime,Iwasstruckbyitscolors.Britanniahadadarkbluehullwitharedrudderstickingoutofthewaterandabandofgoldleafencirclingthetopofthehull.IfoundoutlaterthattheQueenhadchosenthesecolorstomatchPrincePhilip’sdragon-classracingyacht,Bluebottle.
Iheadedupthegangplankfollowingtheotherfourchefsthroughthegalleykitchenanddowntomycabinlocatedrightnexttothepropellers.Theirinsistentthumpingwould lullme to sleep at nightwhenever I sailedonBritannia.Theroomwascompactwithatinybed,acloset,andawritingdesk.Onthedeskwasabookletinformingmetoheadtoliferaftstation12intheeventthattheyachtbegantosink.Funny,Ihadn’tthoughtofthat.
I started to feel slightly queasy and sat down for a moment on the bed,keenlyawareoftheslightrockingoftheship.Well,therewasnowayoutnow.Ichangedintomychefwhites,grabbedmyknifecase,andheadedbackuptothekitchen. After wandering the ship for fifteen minutes, I conceded defeat andaskedapassingsailorifhewouldbesokindastotakemetotheroyalgalley.Iwaslostandembarrassed.
OfMiceandMen
InTampatherewasararefreedaywhentheQueenwasbeinghostedatanonshoreevent.SeveralchefmatesandIdecidedthatatriptoFloridawasn’tcompletewithoutatriptoDisneyWorld.AchauffeuredLincolnTownCarwas at our disposal, and properly suited up, we all piled in. As weapproachedOrlando,weaskedourchauffeurtopleasepullintothenearestMcDonald’s.
Wereceivedplentyofstaresastheblacklimopulledintotheparkinglotandoutsteppedhalfadozenmeninfinelycutsuitsallcarryingsmallbags.Once inside McDonald’s, we all ducked into the nearest restroom for aquickchangeintoshortsandsummershirts.Thesuitsjusthadtogo!Now
wewerereadyforadaywiththebigmouseandwejumpedbackintothelimo—burgersinhand.
BythenextmorningtheyachthadpulledintothecityofCaen,andacrowdwas gathered on Pegasus Bridge to greet us. We docked early and got busypreparing a lunch banquet for the king of Norway, the king of Belgium, thequeenof theNetherlands, theGrandDukeofLuxembourg,andothers.On themenuwasAvocadoBritannia(quitefitting),atenderbraisedstuffedchickenina Champagne sauce, carrots and broccoli in hollandaise, and parsleyed jerseypotatoes.FordessertImadeanicecreamsouffléwithwildstrawberries.Itwasamenubefittingour royalguestsandawell-dealt response toourFrenchcriticswhoalwayssaidthattheBritscouldn’tcook!
RoyalGifts
IwasalwaysamazedbythegiftsHerMajestyreceived.Somewerelavish,like the gold figurine of a camel underneath two gold palm trees—a giftfrom the emir of Qatar. Some gifts were useful, like ties, scarves, andcufflinks; and some gifts were downright weird. In Florida, HerMajestywaspresentedwithtwoseacowstocommemoratehervisit.Whenweheardthis, we chefs looked at each other in puzzlement.Were we expected tocookthem?FortunatelytheywerejusttobenamedbytheQueenandthenreleasedbackintothewild.
TheQueenalwaysgivesagiftinreturn,anditisalwaysthesame—asignedphotoofherself.
Later that day,Britanniaweighed anchor and headed toArrowmanches totakepartinthefortiethanniversaryofthelandingatNormandyandthensailedbackhome.Ithadbeenasuccessfulfirsttripforme.Thebanquethadgonewell,Ihadn’tbeenseasick,andtheyachthadstayedafloat.Ineverdidfindoutwhereliferaftstation12was.
BythetimeItraveledtotheUnitedStatesin1991IwasaseasonedchefonBritannia. That trip, however, marked my first time to America. The yachtdockedinMiamiforaweekandthensailedontoTampa.I’mnotsurewhatI
expected, but Florida tookme completely by surprise. It was so tropicalwithlushvegetationeverywhere.Warmbreezesblewoffthewaterandthenightskywasasoftblue.EventhoughIwasworkinghard,Ifeltcompletelyrelaxedandtotallyspoiled.IhadflownfromLondonontheConcorde,andnowhereIwaswithbrilliantlyclearwatersbeneathandsunshineoverhead.
I remember that the trip was a big success for the Queen. There was abeautiful banquet for Presidents Ford and Reagan and their wives, GovernorLawton Chiles, future Governor Jeb Bush, Senators BobGraham and ConnieMack,aswellasahostofothers.ForthateventwepreparedOeufsDrumkilbo,usingthefinestMainelobsters.Thatwasfollowedwithasaddleoflamb,whichhad been boned and stuffed with a chicken mousse and then garnished withasparagus tips and aMadeira sauce. I remember sending out a beautiful coldlemonsouffléasdessert.
MenuforPresidentsReaganandFord
Afterthebanquet,theQueenhostedaformalcocktailpartyondeckfortwohundredguests.Thatwasn’tatallunusual,but itmeantwechefshad tomove
quickly.Soassoonastheroyaldiningtablewascleared(includingalltwenty-four fruit bowls, which were dismantled and the remaining fruit stowed backdown below) we turned our thoughts to canapés and food for the reception.Guests would arrive on board expecting lots to drink and eat while enjoyingmusicperformedbytheRoyalMarineBand.Appetizershadtobesmall,single-bite affairs, which could be swallowed quickly should a guest suddenly beintroduced to amember of the royal family. Popular canapéswere things liketartletsfilledwithfinelychoppedchickeninamildcurrysauce,smokedsalmonroulades,ortheever-popularminisausageroll.
SeveralyearslaterwhenIwasworkingforPrincessDiana,wewouldhavearecurring conversation about America. “Really, Darren,” she would say, “wemustgolivetheresomeday.”
My reply was always the same. “Yes, your Royal Highness. I would likethat.”ThattriptoFloridahadmadeastrongimpactonmeindeed!
INTHEGALLEYItwasamazinghowmuchfoodfivepalacechefscouldproduce inBritannia’stightkitchenquarters.Therewere twokitchensaspartof theroyalgalley,onefor pastry and the other, the main kitchen, for everything else. The pastry“kitchen”wasreallyapastryworkspacesinceithadnooven.Itwasjustaten-foot-longgalleywithasmallscuttleholethatletyoulookoutsideontothesea.
Themainkitchenwasabouttwiceasbigasthepastrykitchenandincludedasculleryarea,avegetablepreparea,andthemaincookingspace.Inthecenterofthegalleywasasquarestainlesssteeltablethatfourchefsworkedaround.Ithadlipsontheendtostopanydishesfromslidingoff.Behindthatworktableweretwostoveswithtwoovensunderneath,andofftothesideweretwoconvectionovens, primarily for pastry and alwayskept at 350degrees.Twobroilers, twosmall refrigerators,andabainmariemadeup the restof thegalley.Notmuchequipmentforafloatingpalacekitchen,butwemadeitwork.
BeatRetreat
Atacocktailreception,theRoyalMarineBandalwaysfinishestheeveningwithadrumcadenceto“beatretreat.”Thismilitarytraditiondatesbacktothe 1500s when Britain was often engaged in wars against its European
neighbors.Itwasagreedbybothwarringpartiesthatassoonasitgotdark,fightingwouldend.Sodrumswouldbeatacadenceatdusktosignaltroopstohaltfightingand“retreat”backtocamp.
Throughtheyears,thisdrummingtraditionbecameassociatedwiththelowering of theBritish flag each evening.OnBritannia, all guestswouldstandonthetwoupperdecksandlookoutonthefloodlitmast.TheRoyalMarineBandwouldmarch back and forth on the quay side until the flagwaslowered.Oncedone,guestsknewthepartyhadcometoanendanditwastimetodisembark.
Inthepastrykitchen,laughingatthe“bullethard”mangoestheyhadsentmeforroyaldinner
Oddlyenough,themainstoragefridgewaslocatedthreedecksbelow,sharedwith the yacht’s other two galleys. Needmore tomatoes?Youwould have tocontact the dedicated sailor assistant, with the rank of “leading hand,” to godownandbring itup foryou.Want to takea lookat thepearsandmakesurethey will be ripe for tomorrow’s banquet? The leading hand would have tonegotiatethreeflightsofstairstofetchthemforyouandthesameagaintotakethemback—regardlessofhowcalmorroughtheseamightbe.
NowwhenIsay threeflightsdown, itwasn’tvia theship’sstaircases.Theactualroutefromonefloortoanotherontheworkingpartoftheyachtwasvialadders.OnBritanniayouclimbedupanddownladdersallthetime.Butitwasalittletrickytoclimbwhenyoualsohadyourhandsfullwithatrayofchocolatemousse.Theleadinghandwouldbalancefoodboxesandtraysonhisshouldersandclimbupanddowntheladdersbalancinghisloadasbesthecould.
Occasionallya tip in the swelling seaswould result inabox flyingoffhis
shouldersandbackdownonto the floor.More thanonce Iwouldgetaboxofreally bruised fruit, but I didn’t dare complain. Being the leading handwas abrutal joband thatsailorhadallmysympathy.Unfortunately, Iwasn’table tofetchthemmyself.Civilians,“civvies”asthe“yachtees”affectionatelycalledus,were banned from going below decks and carrying food up. It was deemedunsafe.
WavesOutsideandInside
IlovedBritanniamostwhenweweredocked!I’machef,notasailor,andI’ve never been able to handle sailing in bad weather. Once after asuccessful statevisit toAustraliaweset sail forNewZealandandheadedouttotheBassStrait,abodyofwaternotoriousforitsroughswells.Cheesesouffléwasonthemenuthatnightfordinnerinsteadofsomethingeasylikecoldpudding.
AsIwascooking,theQueen’spagekeptcomingthroughthegalleyandannouncing that theheadcount fordinnerwasdropping.By this time I’dbrokenoutinasweatandmyhandswereclammy,butIwasdeterminedtoseethesoufflésfinishedbeforeheadingdowntomycabin.Justtocheck,Iopenedtheovenandsawthesouffléswobblingbackandforthintheirsilverdishes,intempowiththeyacht’ssway.Thatdidit.Everythingintheroomstarted towobble. Iwasable to serve the soufflés,but shortly thereafter Ijoinedtheotherswhocouldn’tstomachtheseas.
TherewasacertainrhythmtocookingonBritannia.Assoonasyouboardedyoucheckedallyourprovisionstomakesurenothinghadbeenlostbetweenthepalaceandtheyacht.Chefs traveledwiththeirownknivesandchefwhitesforjustthatreason.Afterthatyoustartedgettingteaready.Thetimingwastight.Ifthechefswereonboard,thatmeantinafewhourstheQueenandtherestoftheroyalentouragewouldbeboarding.
Soyoufinishedpreppingfor tea(the teacakeshadalreadybeenmadeandtransported)andyouimmediatelybegansettingupfruitbowls,whichwouldbesent to all the royal staterooms.Tins of fresh leaveswould have been packedalongside the food, and we used those as decoration. There wouldn’t be anymoreoncewewereoutatsea.Whenthatwasdone,weputupgallonsoflemon
refresher.LemonrefresherisakindofearlylemonadewiththeunusualadditionofEpsomsalts.
Civviesatworkintheroyalgalley
SinceEpsomsaltisalsoaslightnaturallaxative,wealwayshadtoberightonwhenmeasuringoutthisrecipe!Thefamilyloveditandwealwaysmadeupa big batch once on board.Wewould also take out the butter pats andmakehundreds of tiny butter ballswhich could be frozen ahead and used on breadplates fordinner.Somechefswouldbemakingquartsofsaladdressing,eitherFrench vinaigrette or a creamy chive dressing. Salad was always served atmealtimes,andmakinglotsofdressinginadvancesavedtime.
Iwouldfallintotheroutineafterafewdays.Italwaystookmealittlewhiletogetmysealegsandtofigureouthowtoworkthetightquarters.Also,Ihadtoadjustmycookingtotakeintoaccountweatherconditions.Cookinginwarmerclimates could be difficult. If the weather was hot and muggy, icings andgelatinswouldn’t setand refrigerationwasn’tcloseby.Sometimes I’dsneakacake into theair-conditioneddining roomjust tocool the frostingdown to therighttemperature.
BEEFCARBONNADE
4tablespoonsvegetableoil,divided2poundsleanstewingbeef,cutinto2-inchcubes1largeonion,peeledandsliced3clovesgarlic,chopped3largecarrots,peeledandchopped4ribscelery,chopped
3tablespoonsall-purposeflour
1¼cupsbeefbroth1¼cupsNewcastlebrownale
1bayleaf
½teaspoondriedthyme½teaspoonsalt4ouncesbuttonmushrooms,quartered1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalarge,coveredcasserole,andbrownthemeat.Whenthemeatisbrown,setitasideinabowl.Inthesamecasserole,addtheremaining2tablespoonsoil,andsautétheonions,garlic,carrots,andcelery.Returnthemeattothecasseroleandaddtheflour.Cookfor1minute,stirringconstantly.Stirinthebrothandbrownale,andaddthebayleaf,thyme,salt,andmushrooms.
2.Bringthemeatmixturetoaboil,cover,andplacethecasseroleinthecenteroftheovenfor1½to2hours,oruntilthemeatistender.Removethebayleafbeforeserving.Servewithmashedpotatoes.
MAKES4SERVINGS
CHEESESOUFFLÉ
TheQueenoftenrequestedthissoufflé.Shewoulddriveaspoonstraightdownthemiddleandpourfreshcreamrightin.
1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,forgreasing1¼cupsheavycreamplus1cupforgarnish1½tablespoonsall-purposeflour⅛teaspooncayennepepper1½teaspoonspotatostarch6tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese
1teaspoonbutter
6eggs,separatedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Preheatovento400degrees.Placeabakingsheetinthecenteroftheoven.
2.Liberallygreasethesidesandbottomofan8-inchsoufflédishwiththeunsaltedbutter,andspreadathicklayer(about⅛inchthick)aroundthetopedgeofthedish.Thiswillensurethatthesoufflérisesabovethetop.Refrigerate.
3.Inaheavysaucepan,addthecream,flour,cayenne,potatostarch,Parmesan,and1teaspoonbutteroverahighheat,andwhiskuntilthebuttermeltsandthemixturecomestogetherintoathicksauce.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheeggyolks.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,andallowthemixturetocoolforabout10minutes.
4.Whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiffandfoldthemintothecheesemixtureuntiltheeggwhitesandcheesemixturearecombined.Spoonintothepreparedsoufflédish,andplacethesouffléontopofthebakingsheet.Bakefor18minutes,oruntilthetopisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,andservestraightawaywithajugofheavycream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
CheeseSoufflé
TENDERLOINSTEAKSWITHSTILTONANDWALNUTCRUSTANDMUSHROOMCREAMSAUCE
Mushroomsauce
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
1smallonion,finelychopped1clovegarlic,crushed12ounces(2cups)BabyBellaorcreminimushrooms,slicedPinchofsalt
2tablespoonsall-purposeflour
1cuphomemadeorcannedbeefbroth½cupheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundpepperSteaks4center-cutbeeftenderloinsteaks,about6ounceseachSaltandpepper1tablespoonoliveoil
4ouncescrumbledStiltoncheese¼cupchoppedwalnuts
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshparsley
1.Preheattheovento400degrees.2.Forthesauce,meltthebutterinalargesautépan,andaddtheonions,garlic,mushrooms,andapinchofsalt.Sautéthevegetablesuntiltheystarttosoften.Stirintheflourandletcookinthebutterforaminute.Addthebeefbrothandkeepstirringuntilthesaucethickens.Addthecreamandreduceslightly.
3.Removethepanfromtheheat,andusingahandblender,blendthesauce.Onceblended,returnthepantotheheat.Adjusttheconsistency,andthinthesaucedownwithalittlecreamifitappearstoothick.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Keepthesaucewarmuntilthesteaksarecooked.Thesaucecanbemadeuptoadayaheadatthispointandrefrigerated.Justwarmthesauceoveralowflame.
4.Forthesteaks,letthemcometoroomtemperature.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Inaseparatesautépanlargeenoughtoholdthesteaksinonelayer,addtheoliveoilandheatuntilhotbutnotsmoking.Addthesteaksandcookforabout2minutesoneachside.Removethepanfromtheheat,topeachsteakwithsomeoftheStiltonandwalnuts,andplacethepaninthehotovenfor10minutes,oruntildone.
5.Removethepanfromtheoven,andtransferthesteakstoacleanplate.Letthemrestforatleast5minutes.Checkthesauceandwarmifneeded.Servethesteaksonabedofthesauce,andgarnishwithfinelychoppedparsleyovereachsteak.
MAKES4SERVINGS.
HADDOCKST.GERMAIN
Britain is famous for its fish and chips, and although I never saw the royalfamilyeatthemthetraditionalway,outofanewspaper,thisisaboutascloseastheycame.Thefishcanbeprepared—readytobroil—severalhoursinadvance.
2largerussetpotatoes
4cupsvegetableoil,fordeepfrying1½cupsJapanesepankobreadcrumbs,orregularbreadcrumbs¼cupall-purposeflour1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter
2eggyolks
4(6-ounce)haddockfillets,preferablycentercutKoshersaltandgroundwhitepepper¼cupfinelychoppedchives
1.Preheatthebroilertohigh.Peelthepotatoesandshapethemintorectangles.Cutthepotatoesinto1½×¼×¼-inchpiecesandimmersethemincoldwater.Heattheoilto250degrees.Drainthepotatoesandpatthemdrywithapapertowel.Placethepotatoesintothehotoil,andcookuntilthepotatoesaresoftbutnotcolored.Liftoutontoatraylinedwithpapertowels,andallowthepotatoestocool.Setasidethefryingoilforuselater.
2.Spreadthepankocrumbsontoadinnerplate.Dothesamewiththeflouronaseparateplate.Meltthebutterandstirintheeggyolks.Coateachofthehaddockfilletsfirstintheflour,thentheeggandbuttermix,andfinallythepanko.Makesurethefishiscompletelycoated,andthenplaceeachpieceontoabakingsheetabout1inchapart.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Broilthehaddockforabout8minutesuntilthepankocoatingisgoldenbrownandthefishistender.
3.Whilethefishisbroiling,reheattheoilto375degrees.Carefullydropthe
potatoesintheoil,andcookforabout5minutesuntilgoldenandcrispy.Removetoaplateanduseapapertoweltodrainofftheexcessoil.Seasonwithsalt.
4.Liftthehaddockoffthebakingsheetontotheservingplates,andaddthecrispygoldenpotatoes.Garnishwiththechivesandservewithhollandaisesauce,ifdesired.
MAKES4SERVINGS
LEMONREFRESHER
One of the first jobs after boarding Britannia was to make lemon refresher.Every member of the royal family would reach for a refreshing glass of thisEnglish “homemade lemonade” while sitting on deck. This calls for a fewspecialingredientsyoumightnothaveinthecupboard.TheEpsomsaltsyoucanfind at Whole Foods, and the citric acid and tartaric acid are commoningredientsinbeermaking.Youcanfindthematbeer-makingsupplystoresorthroughonlinesources.
4½cupssugar2tablespoonsEpsomsalts3teaspoonscitricacid
3teaspoonstartaricacid
6lemons,juiceandzest
5cupswater
Placethesugar,Epsomsalts,citricacid,tartaricacid,lemonjuice,andzestinabowlandwhiskthemtogether.Bringthe5cupswatertoaboilandpouritoverthelemonmix,whiskinguntilcombined.Refrigerateuntilcoldanddecantintoscrew-topbottles.Toserve,dilute¼cupofthelemonrefresherwith2cupsofwaterovericeortotaste.
MAKES2QUARTSCONCENTRATE
COLDLEMONSOUFFLÉ
3lemons,juiceandzest3eggs,separated¾cupsugar1packetunflavoredgelatin
5tablespoonswater
1¼cupsheavycream,whippeduntilstiff1½cupsheavycream,whippedstiffforrosettegarnishGratedchocolate1.Foldasheetofparchmentpaperinhalf,andthenwrapitaroundtheoutsideofan8-inchsoufflédish.Itshouldextendthreeincheshigherthanthelip.Staplethetopandbottomoftheparchmenttightly.Placetheparchment-wrappedsoufflédishonabakingsheet,andplacethebakingsheetintherefrigeratortochill.
2.Placethelemonjuice,zest,eggyolks,andsugarinalargemixingbowlthatwillfitsnuglyonapanofboilingwater,andwhisktheingredientsuntilcombined.Heatforabout2minutesuntilthemixtureheatsup,whiskingoccasionally.Removefromtheheat,andwhiskwithanelectricmixeruntilthemixtureiscool.Meanwhile,softenthegelatininthewater,andwarmitjusttodissolve.Addthegelatintotheeggmixture,andwhiskitin.
ColdLemonSoufflé
3.Inalargebowlwhiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Foldthemintotheeggyolkmixture,alternatingwith1¼cupswhippedcream.Removethebakingsheetfromtherefrigerator,andcarefullypourthefillingintothesoufflédish,makingsurethatitcomesatleast1inchabovethelipofthedishandistouchingtheparchment.Don’ttouchthesoufflédishorparchment,butinsteadusethebakingsheettomovethesouffléintotherefrigerator.
Refrigerate6to8hoursorovernight.Carefullypeelofftheparchmentpaperanddiscard.
4.Garnishthetopofthesouffléwithrosettesofwhippedcream,andsprinklethechocolateontop.
MAKES6SERVINGS
TARTETATIN
TheTatinsistersinFranceinventedthisdishmorethanonehundredyearsago.Not longafter that itmade itsway to thepalaceandbecamearoyal favorite.The dish is still served all across France, usually with a big bowl of crèmefraiche.Theroyalfamilyprefersitwithabowlofcrèmechantillyflavoredwithbrandy—alotofit.
If you can’t find lard, then shortening is a reasonable substitute. You canalsomake thisusing justEuropeanbutter; it’sa lot richerandcrumblier,butdelicious.
Pastry1¼cupsall-purposeflour¼teaspoonsalt1½sticks(¾cup)chilledunsaltedbutter¼cuplardorshorteningColdwater
Caramel
2cupssugar1½cupswater,divided
Filling½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter2poundsGrannySmithapples,peeledandsliced1lemon,zestedandjuiced¼cupgranulatedsugar1.Forthepastry,pulsetheflourandsaltafewtimesinafoodprocessorfittedwithametalblade,justtomix.Cutthechilledbutterandlardintocubes,andaddittotheflourmixture.Pulsebrieflyuntilthemixtureformslittleballs,likemoistcrumbs,withnochunksofbutterorlardvisible.Remember,youhavetopulse,notrun,thefoodprocessor.
2.Sprinkle1tablespooncoldwateroverthesurfaceofthedough.Pulseonce.
Repeatwith2to3moretablespoonsandpulsebriefly.Addmorewaterifneeded,1tablespoonatatime.Thedoughshouldbeslightlysticky,butstiffenoughtocometogethertoformaball.Wrapthedoughinplastic.Formitintoaflattenedball,andrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.
4.Forthecaramel,bringthesugarandwatertoaboilinasmall,heavy-bottomedsaucepan.Oncethemixturecomestoaboil,whiskgently,andthenletitboilwithoutstirringuntilthesugarisagoldencaramelcolor.Workingquickly,pouraboutone-third3.Preheattheovento350degrees.ofthecaramelintothebottomofalightlygreased9-inchcakepan,swirlingthepantogetthecarameltocoverthewholebottom.Setthecakepanaside.
5.Carefullyaddabout½cupwatertotheremainingcaramelinthesaucepan,andletitcool.
6.Forthefilling,meltthebutterinaskilletlargeenoughtoholdalltheapples.Addthesugar,apples,lemonzest,andjuice.Cookfor5minutes,oruntiltheapplesstarttosoften.Removefromtheheat,andallowtheapplestocool,tiltingtheskilletsothatthejuicesrunofftheapples.Arrangeaportionofapplepiecesinadecorativefashiononthebottomofthecaramelizedcakepanuntiltheapplesfillonelayer.Thentopwithalltheremainingapples.
7.Rolloutthepastrydoughtoabout½inchthick,andplacethedoughoverthetopoftheapples,cuttingaroundtheedgesofthecakepantofit.
8.Placeintheovenfor20to30minutes,oruntilthecaramelstartstobubblearoundtheedgesofthecrust.Removefromtheoven,andcarefullyinvertthepanontoawarmplate.Pourtheremainingcaramelsauceoverthetopoftheapples,andservewithwhippedcreamlacedwithbrandy.
MAKES6SERVINGS
YOGURTBRÛLÉEWITHMANGOANDPAPAYA
1¼cupsheavywhippingcream1500-gramcontainer(about2cups)TotalGreekyogurt½cupDemerarasugar1ripemango
1smallpapaya
1lime,zestedandjuiced1.Inalargebowlwhipthecreamuntilstiff.Foldintheyogurt,andspoonintoaservingdish.SprinkletheDemerarasugaroverthetop,andrefrigerateforatleast24hours.Thesugarcrystallizesandformsacrispytopping.
2.Peelanddicethemangoandpapayaintoasmallbowl.Stirthelimezestandjuiceintothefruitmix.Servethefruitalongsidethebrûlée.
MAKES4SERVINGS
JAMANDCREAMSPONGE
Thisisaversatilerecipe.Thecakeisalightgenoise,whichwesometimessplitin half and filled with a honey or lemon flavored cheese. But more often wewouldfillitwithwhippedcreamandhomemadestrawberryjammadefromtheQueen’sstrawberriesgrownatBalmoralCastle.
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,forgreasing6eggyolks
2eggs
½cupplus1tablespoonsugar½teaspoonvanillapaste½cupplus2tablespoonsall-purposeflour½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,melted
1cupraspberryseedlessjam
2cupsheavycream,whippedstiff
1tablespoonpowderedsugar1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Lightlygreasean8×3-inchcakering,andplaceacircleofparchmentpaperonthebase.Greasetheparchmentpaper.
2.Setalargemixingbowloverapanofboilingwater,andaddtheyolks,eggs,sugar,andvanillapastetothebowl.(Thebowlshouldbetouchingthewater.)Whisktogetheruntilthemixtureiscombined.Whiskoccasionallyuntiltheeggmixturestartstogethot.Removethemixingbowlfromtheheat,andwhiskwithanelectricmixeruntilthebowlbecomescoldandtheeggmixturehasdoubledinvolumeandispaleincolor.
3.Sifttheflourandaddittotheeggmixturealongwiththemeltedbutter,
foldingitincarefullybyhand.Pourthemixintothepreparedcakeringandbakefor20minutesinthecenteroftheoven,oruntilthetopisgoldenbrownandspringsbackwhenlightlypressed.
4.Removethecakespongefromtheovenandinvertitontoacoolingrack.Leavethespongeontherackuntilitiscold.Removethecakeringandparchmentpapercarefully,andslicethespongeintothreehorizontallayers.Spreadtheraspberryjamequallyonthebottomtwolayers.Topthesebottomtwolayersequallywiththewhippedcream.Placethemiddlelayercarefullyontopofthebottomlayer.Finishbyplacingthetoplayeronthemiddlelayer.Dustwiththepowderedsugarandserve.
MAKES8SERVINGS
ISLEOFWIGHTPUDDING
ThispuddingisanoldBritishdishthatusedtocontaincurrantsandraisinsandwas drizzled with golden syrup. Milk was poured over the pastry to make asyrupysauce.Changingthefillingtoblueberriesanddrizzlingwithhoneymakesthis dish taste delicious. Pouring cream on top, instead of milk, creates alavendersyrupsaucethatlooksheavenlytoo.
2cupsall-purposeflour
½cuplardorvegetableshortening1stick(8tablespoons)unsaltedbutter1teaspoonvanillapaste2tablespoonswater
2cupsblueberries
¾cuphoney½cupheavycream
1tablespoongranulatedsugar1.Inalargebowlcombinetheflour,lard,butter,andvanillapaste,andrubthemtogetherwithyourfingersuntilthemixtureresemblesfinecrumbs.Thengraduallystirinthewateruntilitformsacrumblydough.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrap,andchillforaboutonehour.Whilethedoughisresting,preheattheovento350degrees,andsetarackonthemiddleshelf.
2.Onalightlyflouredsurface,usingalightlyflouredrollingpin,rollthedoughintoa12×8-inchrectangle,keepingthedough’sthicknessatabout½inch.Coverthedoughwiththeblueberriesanddrizzlethehoneyoverthetop.
3.Withtheshortsideoftherectanglefacingyou,rollupthedough,andplaceitonajellyrollpan,seamsideonthebottom.Crumpleupsomesheetsofaluminumfoiltopackaroundthesidesoftherolltosupportitasitbakes.
Bakeinthemiddleoftheovenforabout20minutes.Thepastryshouldbeagoldenbrown,andtheberriesshouldburst,oozingtheirjuices.
4.Removethepanfromtheoven,takeawaythealuminumfoil,andcarefullypourthecreamoverthetopoftheroll.Sprinklethegranulatedsugarovertheroll,andreturnittotheovenforanother15minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandspoonthesyrupinthebottomofthepanoverthetopoftheroll.Allowtocoolforatleast15minutesbeforeslicing.Slicetherollonthebakingsheet,andtransfereachslicetoaservingdishorplate.Servewithclottedcreamorwhippedcream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
CHAPTERFIVE
BalmoralCastle
AutumnintheHighlands
Balmoral Castle is the holiday home of the royal family. They vacation hereeachyearbeginningin lateAugustandstay throughearlyOctober.Thecastle,located in Scotland, just fiftymileswest of Aberdeen, coversmore than fiftythousandacresofland.TheriverDee,whichflowsnexttothecastle,isloadedwithfish,especiallysalmon,andthereisplentyofgameforthecatching.Itisabeautiful, somewhat wild location and as private a place as the royal familycouldhopetofind.
MyfirsttriptoBalmoralCastlecametwoweeksafterIhadstartedworking.Iwas sent up on the overnight train fromLondon for staff “changeover day.”AlongwithaboutonehundredothermembersoftheBuckinghamPalacestaff,Iboarded the overnight sleeper at Kings Cross station in London, bound forAberdeen. Once in Scotland, we boarded a chartered coach going into thehighlandsalongtheA93tothecastle.
BeforemewasthishugecastleIhadheardsomuchabout.IrememberthecoffeeroommaidAnneGardnerpointingoutLochnagar,athirty-eight-hundred-foot black mountain peak, in the distance. “The Queen calls it her mountainjewel,”themaidsaidwithpride.Indeed.
As thecoach turned into theouteredgeof theproperty,wepassed theoldCrathieKirk—thechurchwheretheroyalfamilywouldattendreligiousservices—wentacross theriver,andcontinued through themaingate. Iwasextremelyexcited,aswellasquitenervous,becauseIwouldnowbecookingfortheroyalfamily,insteadoffeedingstaffatBuckinghamPalace.ThecoachturnedupthechainwalkandcametoahaltatthePenndoor—ineffect,thebackdoortothecastle. We disembarked and I was directed to lodgings over the garage. Idumpedmybagsonthebed,quicklychangedintochef’swhites,andheadedtothe castle kitchen.Outside on thewalkway it hitme—the deep silence of theplaceandthesmellofmorethantenthousandacresofpinetrees.
LookinguptothePenndoor,theBalmoralstaffentrance.IfyoulookthroughthearchandintothePennyard,youcanseethekitchenwindows.
Balmoralisaworkingcastle,employingfiftyfull-timestaffandasmanyasonehundredpart-timerswhentheroyalfamilyisinresidence.Castleemployeesfarm threehundredacres, and seventy-fiveacresare rentedout toneighboringfarms.PrincePhilip,theQueen’shusband,hasimprovedthegrounds,buildingaformal garden, water garden, andmost importantly—for the chefs—a kitchengarden.Mr.JohnYoungoverseesallthegardens.Histeamworksallyearlongtoensurethatthegardenslooktheirbestcomesummer.Thekitchengardenwasajoyforme.Iespeciallylovedtheraspberriesgrownthere.Theyweresofullofjuicethatafterpickingabucket,yourhandsandyourchef’swhiteswerestainedpink.Thetastewasincomparable—andIknow,becauseonlyoneofeverytwoberriespickedevermadeitintomybucket.
Inthelarderkitchen
Itwasn’t ahugegarden,but itdid supply the royal table toanastonishingdegree.Wewouldharveststrawberries,raspberries,redcurrants,blackcurrants,gooseberries, frais de bois, blackberries, tayberries, rhubarb, and, of course,blueberries. Then there were the plums. The variety planted was called theVictoriaplum,andtothisdayI’venevertastedanyfiner.Thetreeswereprolific
producers, so everyone got their share. Princess Diana adored them, and theDukewouldtuckafewinhispocketafteravisittothepastrykitchen.
Thevegetableswerejustwhatyou’dexpectfromanEnglishgarden.Plentyofonions,carrots,cabbage,potatoes,springonions,turnips,leeks,Englishpeas,andlettucesweregrownthere.Andinanodtomoremoderntastes,therewerealsoallkindsofsquash,beets,beans,cauliflower,andceleriac.Weuseditall—andiftheyearbroughtagoodharvest,thenthestaffgotspoiledtoo.
SHOOTINGPARTIESShooting parties take place nearly every weekend at Balmoral. Guests arriveFridayeveningintimefordinnerandsomeseriousplanningforthenextday’sshoot.Gentlemenguests,whostillmakeupthemajorityofshooters,areupearlyfor breakfast the next day.A typical buffet breakfastwould be fishcakeswithfresh tomato sauce, poached eggs en croûte, deviled kidneys, and CurriedSalmonKedgeree.Itisheartyfoodmeanttolastyouuntillunchtime.
Ladies join themen later.Some intrepid femaleguestsmightcollect felledbirds andpass themon to theghillies, or gamekeepers, to tag and send to thegamelarder.Eachguestreceivesabraceofbirdsastheirpartingweekendgift.Theremainingbirdsaresenttothekitchen.
Shootingday lunchesarealfrescoaffairsandastepback in time.Lunch isloadedontosilvertrayswithlids,whichwecalled“hotboxes,”andthreetrayscanfitintoaleathercase.Thesecasesarebeautifulantiques,datingbacktothereignofKingGeorgeVI.Theywerecraftedoutof thefinestwood, linedwithpadding, and finishedwith red leather. It’s a regal presentation for anoutdoorlunch.
WildBalmoral
BalmoralCastle is abuttedby at least one thousand acresof dense forest.Theroyalfamilyhasworkedhardtoreestablishwhatwasonceaseverelydepleteddeerpopulation.Thepineforestprovidessanctuaryforredandroedeer,redandblackgrouse,squirrels,goldeneagles,andosprey.Generallyhunting, which in England is called “stalking,” happens during the earlypartof theweekandshooting isdoneonThursday,Friday,andSaturday.DeerhuntingatBalmoralhelpsmanagethereddeerherd,protectsthelocal
habitat,andensuresthelong-termhealthofthewilddeerpopulation.Theestatealsokeepsanimals, including some rarebreeds.Oneof the
mostunusual isanextremelyold sheepbreedcalledSoay. Inappearance,they look like small woolly deer. Themeat from these animals is sweet,verylean,andsimilarintastetoelk.ItistheKobebeefoflamb.
WilliamandHarry, theyoungest royals,were tooyoung to either shootorhuntdeer.Buttheydidn’twanttomissoutentirely.Sotheywouldoftengooutafter tea in aLandRover to hunt rabbits. Itwas considered good practice forbothboysand it servedapracticalpurpose.The rabbitswerecleaned,cooked,deboned,andchoppedfortheQueen’scorgis’dinner.
Withalltheshootingandhuntinggoingon,itwasnowonderwehadgameonthemenumostdaysatBalmoral.TheDukewouldhaveusmarinatethefinercuts, the loins and fillets, and then he would barbecue them in the evening.Secondclass jointswouldbecutupforstews,braised in redwine,andservedwithmashedpotatoesduringthenextshootinglunch.Thirdclassjointswouldbesent to the butcher in the village to grind up for sausages, and also laterbarbecued.
THEBOUNTIFULRIVERDEEBalmoral is a fisherman’s paradise aswell. TheRiverDee is one of the fourmajorsalmonrunningrivers inGreatBritain,andit isafast flowingriver thatwindsitswaytowardthenextclosesttown,Ballater.Asitflowsdownward,therivereddies intopoolshereand there,perfect spots forsalmon,grilse,andseatrouttorest.Grilseareyoungsalmon,usuallyfour-year-olds,makingtheirfirstjourney upstream to spawn. There was just such a spot in the river not fiveminutes from the castle kitchen and it was a favorite of PrincesWilliam andHarry.They launchedpaddleboats froma small sandybanknear the river andwouldplaythereforhours.Theyalsolearnedtofishatanearlyagefromtheirdad.
TheHuntressDiana
Princess Diana wasn’t keen on hunting, shooting, or fishing. “Why does
everyone in this family like killing things?” she askedmeone day in thepastrykitchen.ShewaschafingatthepressureputonherbyPrinceCharlesandotherfamilymemberstohuntastag.Onedayshewentoutearlywithherfavoriteghillie,SandyMasson.Shewasgonemostoftheday,butwasinthekitchenwhenIreturnedtocookdinnerthatevening.
“Ididit!”sheyelled.“Igotone,Ishotadeer...poorthing.”Youcouldtellshewashappyandsadatthesametime.
“Darren,domeafavor,”sheasked.“Tellmewhenitwillbeservedfordinner.Ijustcan’tdoit.Ican’tbearthethoughtofthatdeerlookingupatmefrommyplate.”
PrinceCharles isanavidfishermanandwouldspendhoursstanding in theDee,oftenalongsidetheQueenMotherwithwateruptothetopsoftheirwaders.Hewouldheft enormous salmon into the royalkitchen tobeweighed, tagged,andcatalogued.Thiswassalmonsofreshitseyesseemedtofollowyouaroundtheroom.Noneofthechefswereallowedtotouchituntilinstructionsweresentfromupstairs.Usuallyitwouldbegrilled,poached,orbroiledwithagarnishandserved on silver in the dining room. The trimmings weren’t wasted either—goujonsde saumonwith sauceTyroliennealwaysbroughta smile in the royalnurseryathightea.
AFAMILYONHOLIDAYAt Balmoral I saw the royal family up close, something nearly impossible atBuckinghamPalace.Forthemitwasvacationandthemoodwasrelaxed.Mostof the familywouldcomedown to thekitchenat somepoint. Ifwedidn’t seetheminthekitchen,thenwewouldseethemattheGhilliesBallandmaybeevenhaveadanceortwo.
Balmoralwelcomedtheextendedroyalfamilyaswell.OnecharmingguestwasLadySarahArmstrongJones,theQueen’sniece,whovisitedeachsummeron holiday from university. She was a kind young lady with a sweet tooth.Shortbreadwasherfavorite.Wemadesuretopackatinortwoinherluggagebeforesheleftinthefall.
Even though I was working, Balmoral always felt like a holiday tome. Idon’tthinkIwasaloneinthatfeeling.Whethertrueoranecdotal,thereseemedto be an increase in staff liaisons at Balmoral. It was given the nickname
“immoralBalmoral.”Dresswasextremelycasual.Ienteredthekitchensonemorningandsawan
oldergentlemanstandingaround ina frayedsweaterwithholes in theelbows.Thepantshadseenbetterdaystoo,andthebootsweremuddy.Ididn’tpaymuchattention. He was just a gardener, probably looking for something to eat. Inpassing I asked a fellow chef the gardener’s name. “Gardener?” he laughed.“YoumeantheDuke?”ItwasPrincePhilip,theQueen’shusband,andIhadn’trecognizedhim.
PrinceAndrewbeingwelcomedbytheroyalstaffafterreturningfromtheFalklands.PrinceCharleswasthere,too,dressedastheoldmanofLochnagar.
I’mafraidthatforPrincessDiana,Balmoralwasabitofatrial.Thatspiritof“tromparoundinyouroldBarbourandwellies”wasnotexactlyherstyle.Shewasanelegantclotheshorse.Oldrubberbootswerethelastthingyouwereapttofindinhercloset.So,whiletherestofthefamilywasoutfittedwithwadersforsalmonfishing,Dianacouldbefoundwiththeboys,WilliamandHarry,inthenursery.Shewouldcomedowntothekitchenmidmorning,oftenwithWilliamandHarryinfullridinggear,fororangejuiceorcereal.Thentheywouldalltrekofftothestablesfortheboys’ridinglessons.WilliamrodeasmallponynamedSmokeyandtheprincesswouldwalkalongside.Othertimesallthreewouldpopinforsnacks,usuallyfruit,beforeheadingoff to theboatpool tosplashin theDee.PrinceCharleswasrarelywiththem,preferringtohuntorpaintpicturesathiseasel.
Lateeveningmealsdrovetheprincessabitcrazyaswell.DinneratBalmoraldidn’tusuallybeginuntileightfifteen,orlateriftheDukedecidedtobarbecueupinthehills.Theneverythingwasloadedontoatrailerandtransportedtothe
site. It wasn’t unusual for dinner to finish around eleven. The Duke lovedgrilling outdoors and other family members would pitch in as well.Unfortunately,theywouldn’tletPrincessDianaanywherenearthegrill.Herjob,alongwiththeQueen’s,wastopullonyellowrubberglovesandrinsethepotsinthesinkafterward.Indeed,itwasnotherfavoritewaytopasstheevening.
Thelodge’sdiningroom
Soshedevisedaplan.Shewouldcomedowntothepastrykitchenforachataroundfiveeacheveningandwait.Thenassoonasthechefsreceivedwordthatthefamilywouldbehavingabarbecuefordinner,PrincessDianawould leavethekitchenandheadforthenursery,promptlygivingthenanny,NannyBarnes,thenightoff.Theprincesscould thenhavesupperwith theboysandget theminto bed. The nursery had its ownmenu and she and the boys would have agrand time eating her childhood favorites like cottage pie and pudding. Ofcourse,whenPrinceCharlescameintosay“Weareoutfordinnertonight,” itwastoolate.Withthenannyunavailable,PrincessDianahadtheperfectexcusetostayin.
MeetingaPrincess
PastryChefRobertPinehadthenightoff.IwastoldtosuggesttotheDuke,whenhecameintothekitchen, that therewasapplepieandicecreamfordessertoralternatively,theQueen’sfreshlypickedberrieswithicecream.ImemorizedthislittlespielandfeltreadytospeaktotheDuke.Noproblem.So, itcaughtmebysurprisewhenPrincessDianawalked into thekitchenaskingforayogurt.AllIcouldthinkofwas,Wellsheisn’t theDuke,I’msupposedtospeaktotheDuke,forgodsake!Wherewillshesit,whereisshegoingtoeatheryogurt,isthereaspoonanywhere?
MewithRobertPine,theQueen’spastrychefatBalmoral.ItwasthefirsttimeImetPrincessDiana.
Flustered,Iturnedaroundandbangedmyheadintosomeflanringsthathung over the prep table. The princess burst out laughing. I managed tocollectmyselfandgettheprincessheryogurtandshefoundaspottositonthe chest freezer, all thewhile eating and chattingwithme.Suddenly theDuke showed and exclaimed, “Aha! Caught you!” pointing a finger atPrincess Diana. She laughed, slid off the freezer and walked out of thekitchen.
After that, the princess came by fairly frequently to get a snack or tochat. She would always sit on the chest freezer since there really wasn’tanyplaceelse.Infact,weusedthefreezertopasakindofshelfandwouldputcakesandtartsonituntilweneededtoservethem.Iftherewasafruitcakecoolingonthefreezer,PrincessDianawouldsitandchatwithus,allthewhilepickingouttheraisinsfromthecake.Itwouldbeincrumbsbythe
timesheleft.
TheGhilliesBall
TheGhilliesBallwasatwice-a-yeareventatBalmoral.ThetermghillieisGaelic forgamekeeper, and the ballwas a Scottish dance party held as athankyoutothestaffforalltheirhardworkandeverymemberoftheroyalfamilyinresidenceandtheirguestswouldattend.TheQueen’spipemajorwould announce the first dance, usually starting with a “Dashing WhiteSergeant”—atraditionaldancewheretwowomendancewithoneman.
Scottishdancesaresimilartosquaredancesinthatyouarepassedfrompartner to partner, ultimately getting to dancewith everyone in the room.Prince Charles and Princess Diana especially enjoyed themselves. Theyboth knew all the steps and Prince Charles would spin Princess Dianaaroundfasterandfaster.Theyhadagreattimeanditseemedtomethattheyweredeeplyinlove.
During one Ghillies Ball, I was withmy buddies in the corner whensuddenlythegrouppartedtomakewayforPrincessDiana.“Darren,comedancewithme,”shesaid.Ifeltmyfacegobeetred.
“ButYourRoyalHighness,”Iblurtedout,“Idon’tknowhow.”“Oh, it’seasy,”shesmiled.“I’ll showyou.”Shegrabbedmyarmand
pulledmeontothefloorasthepipemajorannouncedaSt.Bernard’swaltz.Well, I had no ideawho St. Bernardwas,much less that he had awaltznamedafterhim.Theprincesswasagreatdancerandshetriedtoshowmethe steps. She soon realized Iwas hopeless, so to teaseme, she spunmearound and started asking everyone to get out of the way. “Make way,comingthrough!”sheholleredatPrinceAndrew.ShespunmetowardtheQueen.ForachillingmomentIthoughtshewasgoingtopassmeofftoHerMajestybutinstead,shespunmepasther.Ihadreceivedmycomeuppance.
EveryyearthereafterPrincessDianamadeapointtodancewithmeattheGhilliesBall.
CURRIEDSALMONKEDGEREE
Hearty breakfasts before a morning in the icy cold winds and rains of thehighlandswereanecessity.Thiskedgeree fits thebill.Salmon trimmings fromthe freshlycaught fishare lightlypoachedandadded tobasmatirice,reducedcream, and spices, then topped with hard-boiled eggs and fresh parsley. It isbettermadewithcentercutsalmon,withthosebigpinkflakespokingoutofthecreamyrice.Often thisdishwouldbe requested fornurserybreakfast,withoutthecurry,butwithlotsofcrispybacon.Wesometimesusedsmokedhaddock,ifitwasavailable,insteadofsalmon.
1quartwater1cupbasmatirice
2cupsheavycreamorhalf-and-half
1tablespooncurrypowder,ortotaste4hard-boiledeggs,peeledSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1½poundssalmon,poached,thencooledandflaked¼cupfinelychoppedgreenonions2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshparsley1.Bringthewatertoarollingboilina6-quartpot,andaddtherice.Cookuntilthericeistender,andthendrainthericeinacolander.Returnthepantotheheat,andaddthecreamandcurrypowder.Simmeruntilthecreamstartstothickenslightly.Warmtheeggsbyplacingtheminasmallpanofsimmeringwater(about3cups).Shutofftheheat,andlettheeggssteepinthewaterforafewminutes.2.Addthericetothecurriedcreamandstir.Oncethericeishot,seasonwiththesaltandpepperandstirintheflakedsalmongently,takingcarenottobreakupthesalmonpieces.
3.Spoonthekedgereeintoawarmservingdishandsprinklewiththegreenonionsandparsley.Removetheeggsfromthewaterandcutintoquarters.Garnishtheedgesofthekedgereewiththeeggs.
MAKES4SERVINGS
SALMONFISHCAKES
2poundsredskinpotatoes,peeled4tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshparsley
1teaspoonlemonjuice
¾teaspoonsalt⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper
1eggyolk
1½poundsalmonfillet,poachedandchilled½cupall-purposeflourplusflourfordusting2cupswhitebreadcrumbsorpanko(Japanese-stylebreadcrumbs)2eggs,beaten3cupspeanutoil,fordeepfryingFriedparsley,forgarnish(optional)Freshtomatosauce(optional)1.Coverthepotatoeswithcoldwaterina6-quartpot,andbringthewatertoaboil.Cookfor18minutes,oruntiltender,drainthepotatoes,andreturnthemtothepot.Mashthepotatoesuntilsmooth,andaddtheparsley,lemonjuice,salt,pepper,andeggyolk.Flakethesalmon,andfoldintothepotatomixture,mixinggently.Allowthemixturetocoolforatleast1hour,orovernightintherefrigerator.
2.Dustyourworksurfacewithalittleflour,lessthanatablespoon,andshapethefishcakesintoeven-sizeballs.Formintoneatcakesbypressingdowngentlywithaspatula.Eachcakeshouldbeabout2½inchesby1inch.
3.Puttheflour,breadcrumbs,andeggsinthreeseparatebowlslinedupinarow.Firstdredgethesalmoncakesintheflour,shakingofftheexcess.Thendipthemintothebeatenegg,andthenrolltheminthebreadcrumbs.Placethefishcakesonacleandishandrefrigerateforatleast30minutesorupto24hours.
4.Addthepeanutoiltoadeepsaucepan,andheatuntilhotbutnotsmoking.
Deep-frythesalmoncakes,afewatatimewithoutcrowdingthepan,untilgoldenbrownonbothsides.Liftoutofthepan,gentlyblotontoapapertowel,andserveimmediatelywithfriedparsley(directionsonpage129)andfreshtomatosauceifdesired.
MAKES12CAKESOR6SERVINGS
A royal breakfast: (from left to right) Curried SalmonKedegree,PoachedEggsenCroûte,SalmonFishcakeswithtomatosauce
POACHEDEGGSENCROÛTE
Breakfasts were usually served buffet style, so it was necessary to create a“basket” for poached eggs to sit in, so that they could be easily lifted andprotectedfromhardeningtooquicklyfromtheheatofthehotplate.FriedbreadisamustforanyEnglishbreakfast.Asliceofbreadisdroppedintothebacongreaseandreheateduntilgoldenandcrispy.Thisdishisameal initselfwhenyouplacechoppedcrispybacon in thebottomof thebreadbeforeplacing theeggontopandaspoonfulofhollandaiseovertheegg.
1loafdensewhitebread,notsliced4cupsvegetableoil,forfrying1quartboilingwater1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar1teaspoonsalt4eggs
1tablespoonchoppedchives
1.Trimthecrustsofftheloaf,andcutthebreadintofour,2-inch-thickslices.Reserveanyleftoverbreadandcrustsforbreadcrumbs.Usingcookiecutters,cuta2½-inchcircleoutofeachthickslice.Thenwitha2-inchcutter,cutthree-fourthsofthewaydownintothe2½-inchbreadcircle,butbecarefulnottocutallthewaythrough.(Thiswillbethe“cup”fortheegg.)Heatthevegetableoilto350degreesanddropinthebread“croûtes.”Fryuntilgoldenonallsides,andremovethecroûtestoaplateandpapertowel;keepwarm.
2.Inalargepan,bringthewatertoarollingboilandaddthevinegarandsalt.Carefullycracktheeggsintotheboilingwater,orifyouwouldprefer,cracktheeggsintoateacuponeatatimeandtipintothewater.Swishthewatersothattheeggsdonotsticktothebottomofthepanandboiltheeggsforabout4minutes.Whiletheeggsarecooking,carefullyremovethecenterdiskofeachcroûte,leavinga“basket”inthecenter.
3.Usingaslottedspoonlifttheeggsoutofthewater,andplaceoneinthecenterofeachcroûte.Sprinklewiththechivestoserve.
MAKES4SERVINGS
GRAVADLAXWITHSAUCESUEDOISE
Gravadlax,or“buriedsalmon,”getsitsnamefromseventeenth-centurysailorswhousedtocoverthesalmoninsaltandburyitinthesandtopreserveit.Todaywe still cover and cure the fish in salt, but it’s only buried in the back of therefrigeratorforfivedays.Thiswasservedoftenatthepalaceasafirstcourse,slicedonabedoflettuceandservedwiththesauce.Butitalsowasservedasacanapéforreceptions.
Lax3poundsAtlanticsalmonfillet,preferablymid-cut4tablespoonskoshersalt4tablespoonssugar
2teaspoonscrushedwhitepeppercorns1cupfirmlypackedchoppedfreshdill,dividedSauce3eggyolks
3tablespoonssugar
¼cupplus1tablespoonsweetGermanmustard2cupscornoilorotherneutralflavoredoilSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1tablespoonredwinevinegar(optional)Lemonwedgesforgarnish1.Cutthesalmoninhalfacrossthemiddleandpatdrywithpapertowels.Removetheskinfrombothpiecesandsave.Inasmallbowlmixthesalt,4tablespoonssugar,peppercorns,and½cupdilluntilcombined.Tossthecuremixoverthefish,andrubiton.Layapieceofplasticwraplargeenoughtoaccommodatethesalmonflatonacounter.Placealayerofsalmonskinontopoftheplastic,laythefishpiecesontopofthat,andpackonalltheremainingcuremixthatdidn’tstickonandaroundthesalmon.Placetheremainingpieceofsalmonskinonthetop,andwrapthewholefishtightlyintheplasticwrap.2.Placethesalmononatrayandputanothertrayontoptoweighthefishdown.
Refrigerate.Turnthefishoveronceeachday,andleaveittocurefor5days.3.After5days,unwrapthesalmon,andwipethecuremixtureoffthepiecesofsalmon.Discardthecuremixturealongwiththeskin.
4.Forthesauce,inalargebowlwhisktheeggyolksuntilcreamy.Addtheremaining3tablespoonssugarandthemustard,anddrizzletheoilinslowlytomakeamayonnaise.Whiskintheremainingdill,andadjusttheseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Forasaucewithabitmorebite,addtheredwinevinegar.
5.Slicethesalmonwafer-thinontoaservingdish,garnishwithfreshdillandlemonwedges,andservethesaucealongside.
MAKES8TO10SERVINGS
MARINATEDPORTABELLAMUSHROOMS
In theUKwe call portabellas “flat”mushrooms. A standard vegetable orderfromtheroyalkitchenswouldincludesomanyboxesof“flats”andsomanyof“buttons.”Thiswas,ofcourse,beforeAntonioCarlucciointroducedusto“wildmushrooms.”
4largeportabellamushrooms
½cupoliveoil1tablespoonWorcestershiresauce
2tablespoonstarragonvinegar
2tablespoonsredwine(optional)
1teaspoonfinelychoppedgreenonions¼teaspoondriedthyme1clovegarlic,crushed¼teaspoonsalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Peeltheskinoffthemushroomstoallowthemarinadetoseepintotheflesh.Carefullyremovethecenterstemoutofthemushrooms.(Thispieceistoodenseandthegillswouldbelongcookedbeforethispiecewouldbetender.)Thencutthemushroomsintohalvesonthebiasforpresentationpurposes.Whisktogethertheoliveoil,Worcestershiresauce,vinegar,redwine,greenonions,thyme,garlic,salt,andpepper,andpourintoaziplockbag.Addthemushrooms,andmarinateatroomtemperatureforabout1hour,turningthebagoccasionally.
2.Placethemushroomsontoabakingsheetandcookinthecenteroftheovenuntiltender,15to20minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
MAKES4SERVINGS
STEAKDIANE
Thisclassic1970sdishisstillpopularwiththeroyalfamilyandisonetheDukeof Edinburgh loved to cook for family barbecues. We would prepare theingredients,flattenthesteaksinadvance,andsenditalltothebarbecuesiteinyellow Tupperware boxes. The contents of each Tupperware container werelabeled,atleastintheory.Occasionallyalabelwasmissingandbelieveme,weheardallaboutitfromtheDukethenextday.
4(4-ounce)beeftenderloinsteaksSaltandfreshlygroundpepper4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1cupfinelychoppedonion1cupslicedbuttonmushrooms
1cupheavycream
½cubebeefbouillon1teaspoonWorcestershiresauce2tablespoonsbrandy
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshchives
1.Flatteneachsteakwitharollingpintoabout½inchthick.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Add2tablespoonsoliveoiltoasautépanlargeenoughtoaccommodatethesteaksinonelayer.Heattheoiluntilhot,butnotsmoking.Cookthesteaksonhighheatforabout2minutesoneachside.Removefromtheskilletontoaplateandkeepwarm.
2.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsoliveoiltothepan,andaddtheonion,sautéinguntilitsoftens.Stirinthemushroomsandsautéuntilsoft.Stirinthecream,beefbouillon,Worcestershiresauce,andbrandy.Increasetheheattoreducetheliquidtotheconsistencyofheavycream.Removethesaucefromtheheat,andchecktheseasoningfortaste.Returnthesteakstothepanalongwiththejuices,andcoverwiththesaucefor1or2minutesjusttoreheatthesteaks.Servesprinkledwiththechoppedchivesforgarnish.
MAKES4SERVINGS
POACHEDSALMONWITHDILLHOLLANDAISE
DillHollandaise1½sticks(¾cup)unsaltedbutter3eggyolks
1teaspoonwater1lemon,juiced
2teaspoonschoppedfreshdill
SaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperSalmon2quarts(8cups)coldwater12blackpeppercorns,crushed4carrots,peeledandthinlysliced3smallonions,peeledandthinlysliced2ribscelery,washedandthinlysliced1tablespoonsalt1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar4stemsfreshparsley
1bayleaf
1sprigfreshthymeor1pinchofdriedthyme1½poundsAtlanticsalmonfillet,skinnedandcutinto4pieces1.Forthedillhollandaise,meltthebutterinasmallpanoverlowheat.Itwillseparateintothreeparts.Onthebottomwillbethemilksolids,inthemiddletheclearclarifiedbutter,andonthetopthefoamymilksolids.Carefullyskimoffthetopfoamysolidsanddiscard.2.Setametalbowloverapanofsimmeringwater.Thebowlshouldnottouchthewater.Whisktheeggsandwatertogetherfor30seconds,oruntilwarmandslightlyfrothy.Removethebowlandslowlywhiskintheclarifiedbutter,butnotthemilksolidsatthebottom,toformathickemulsion.Afterthebutterhasbeenbeatenintotheeggs,graduallyaddthelemonjuice.Thenaddthedillandthesaltandpeppertotaste.Keepthesaucewarmuntilreadytouse.
3.Forthesalmon,placethepeppercorns,carrots,onions,andceleryalongwith
thesalt,vinegar,parsley,bayleaf,andthymeintoa10-quartpot,andsimmerfor20minutes,oruntilaromatic.Straintheliquidanddiscardthecookedvegetables.Bringtheliquid(nowcalledacourtbouillon)toaboilinlargesautépan.Theliquidshouldbeseveralinchesdeep.Addthesalmonandthenreducetheheatsothatthebouillonbarelysimmers.Coverthepan,andgentlypoachthesalmonforabout6minutes.Removethesalmonwithaslottedspoon,andallowittocoolonawirerackorservingdish.
4.Salmoncanbeservedatroomtemperatureorchilled.AccompanywiththeDillHollandaise.
MAKES4SERVINGS
GLENFIDDICHCHOCOLATEMOUSSE
Putanythingchocolateon themenuandHerMajestywouldusuallygive itanaffirmativecheckintheMenuBook.Thisdensemoussewasoneofherfavorites.Although theQueen is not a bigwhiskey drinker,Glenfiddich—“valley of thedeer” inGaelic—whiskey from the Scottish highlands adds awarmaftertaste.The coffee intensifies the flavor. You can substitute crème de menthe for thewhiskey.Ifyoudon’twant tousealcohol, thenfold finelychoppedcrystallizedgingerorevenafewchocolatechipsthroughthemix.
6ouncessemisweetchocolate1teaspooninstantcoffee
1tablespoonboilingwater
5eggs,separated
2tablespoonsGlenfiddichwhiskey
1¼cupsheavycream1cupheavycream,whippedforgarnish2ouncesgratedsemisweetchocolate,forgarnish1.Meltthe6ouncesofchocolateinadoubleboileror,alternatively,microwaveitonhighfor1minuteandstiruntilmelted.Inasmallbowldissolvethecoffeeintotheboilingwater.2.Whisktheeggyolksintothemeltedchocolateandthenstirinthedissolvedcoffeeandthewhiskeyandmixwell.
3.Whipthecreamuntilitformsandholdsstiffpeaks.Whiptheeggwhitesuntiltheyformandholdstiffpeaks.Foldthewhippedcreamandwhippedeggwhitesintothechocolatemixture.Keepfoldinguntilyoucannolongerseeanywhitespecksofcreamoreggwhite.
4.Pourthemousseintoadecorativeservingdish,andrefrigerateforatleast3hourstoallowthechocolatetoset.Decoratethetopofthemoussewithrosettesofwhippedcreamandgratedchocolate.
MAKES6SERVINGS
SCOTTISHTHISTLESHORTBREAD
Thisrecipehasliterallybeenusedforcenturies.AtBalmoralwemadeiteveryday,anditwasaperfectteacake.ItwasafavoriteoftheQueen’sniece,LadySarah,whowouldtucksixwholeshortbreadsintoherluggageattheendofeachvisit. Dusted with vanilla sugar, it crumbles into eight portions and can beserved as a tea cake, alone or with homemade ice cream. If you don’t havetraditionalbeechwoodshortbreadmoldsyoucanbakethisinceramicmoldsorrollthedoughintoalogandcut½-inchcookies.
1½cupsall-purposeflour¾cupcornstarch1cuppowderedsugar
2sticksunsaltedbutter
¼cupvanillasugar(seepage76)1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Placeasheetofparchmentpaperonabakingsheet.Sifttheflour,cornstarch,andpowderedsugarintoalargebowl.Cutthebutterintosmallpiecesandrubthemintotheflourmixtureuntilitformsintoaball.Lightlydustashortbreadmoldwithflourandpressthedoughintothemold.Trimoffanyexcess.Ifusingabeechwoodmold,moldtheshortbreadandthentipitoutontotheparchmentpaper,andprickthetopoftheshortbreadalloverwithaforkbeforebaking.Ifusingaceramicmold,baketheshortbreaddirectlyinthemold.
2.Bakeinthepreheatedovenfor20minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandmarktheshortbreadintowedgeswithaknife,cuttingaboutone-thirdofthewaythrough.Sprinklewiththevanillasugar,andplaceonacoolingracktocoolcompletely.
MAKES8TO10SERVINGS
SUMMERPUDDING
ByAugust,theBalmoralgardensareburstingwithlateseasonfruitandberries,especiallystrawberries.AllthisbountymeantthatSummerPuddingwouldbeonthemenuatleastonceaweek.Theroyalfamilylovedtotakethisoutonpicnicsandwouldspoonitrightoutofthedish.
2poundsmixedberries—cherries,strawberries,raspberries,redcurrants,blackcurrants,blackberries,blueberries½cupwater
1teaspoonvanillapaste
1½cupssugar8slicesdensewhitebread,severaldaysoldSprigsoffreshmint,forgarnishClottedcream
1.Preparethefruitbystoningandhalvingthecherries,removingstemsfromtheredandblackcurrants,andhullingandquarteringthestrawberries.Keepeachtypeoffruitseparateatthisstage.
2.Inalargeheavy-bottomedpanaddthecherries,water,vanillapaste,andsugaroveralowheat,andstiruntilthesugardissolves.Letthecherriessimmeruntiltheystarttosoften.Addthestrawberriesandblackberriesandstir;simmer2to3minutes,andthenaddtheblueberries,redcurrants,blackcurrants,andfinallytheraspberries.Removefromtheheat,andcarefullystrainthefruitintoacolander,reservingthepoachingsyrupinaseparatebowl.
3.Cutthecrustsoffthebread,andcutacirclefrom1sliceofthebreadtofitthebottomofthepuddingbasin.Dipthebreadintothepoachingsyrupandplaceitintoa1-quartpuddingbasinorsoufflédish.Cutallbut2oftheremaining7breadslicesinhalf,dipthemintothesyrup,andlinethesidesofthebasin,overlappingeachpieceslightly.
4.Oncethebasiniscompletelylined,spoonthefruitintothecenterandfillthebasintothetop.Placethe2remainingpiecesofbreadontopofthefruit.Placeasaucerthatfitssnuglyinsidethebasinontopofthebread.Weighdownthetopofthepuddingbyplacingsomethinglikealargecanoftomatoesontopofthesaucer.Refrigerate6to8hoursorovernightalongwithanyremainingpoachingsyrup.
5.Runaspatulaaroundtheedgesofthepudding,andinvertitontoaservingplate.Pourtheremainingsyrupoverthetop,andallowthesyruptorundownthesides.Garnishwithsprigsofmintandservewiththeclottedcream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
SummerPudding
CRATHIECRUNCH
NamedafterthevillagenexttoBalmoralCastle,thischeesecakewaspopulartosend out on shooting lunches. It is a crunchy layer of chocolate cookies andunsaltedbuttertoppedwithacheesecakebatterflavoredwithcrèmedementhe.As a baroque final touch,wewould top it withwhipped cream and crumbledchocolatemintcandy.Nestle’speppermintchocolateAeroBarismyfirstchoicesinceithastherightlightnessandcrunch.Ifyoucan’tfindthat,agooddustingofgratedchocolateisamore-than-acceptablesubstitute.
½pound(8ounces)McVitieschocolatedigestivesor1cupgroundgrahamcrackercrumbsmixedwith½cupgratedbittersweetchocolate6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted4eggs,separated2tablespoonscrèmedementheliqueur⅔cupgranulatedsugar2packetsunflavoredgelatin
1tablespoonwater
1½cupsheavycream1peppermintchocolateAeroBaror⅓cupgratedchocolate1.Grindthecookiesinafoodprocessoruntilfinecrumbsform.Placeinalargebowlandstirinthemeltedbutter.Firmlypackthemixtureintothebottomofa9-inchtartpanandrefrigerateforatleast15minutes.
2.Placetheeggyolks,crèmedementhe,andsugarintoalargemixingbowloverapanofboilingwater,andwhiskforabout2minutes.Removethebowlfromtheheat,andcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixtureiscold.
3.Softenthegelatininthe1tablespoonwaterinasmallpan,andplaceoverlowheattowarmanddissolvethegelatin.Whiskthegelatinintotheeggmixture.
4.Whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andfoldintotheeggmixture.Spoonthisontothetartcrust,andrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
5.Whiptheheavycreaminalargebowluntilstiff,andspreadontothetopofthenow-seteggmix.Chopthemintchocolatebar,anddecoratewithitorthe
gratedchocolate.
MAKES8SERVINGS
CrathieCrunch
BREADANDBUTTERPUDDING
ThispuddingwasPrincessDiana’sall-timefavorite,somuchsothatsheoncehad a royal reporter write that “Darren makes the best bread and butterpuddingintheworld.”Well,Iamnotsureitisthebestintheworld—butit’supthere!Thefinaltextureisacrossbetweenabreadpuddingandacrèmebrûlée.
3ouncesraisins
¼cupAmaretto12sliceswhitebread,crustsremoved1½sticksunsaltedbutter,melted9eggyolks
2teaspoonsvanillapaste
¾cupsugar½cupmilk
2cupsheavycream2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar,todusttopofpudding3ouncesslicedalmonds,lightlytoasted
2tablespoonspowderedsugar
1.SoaktheraisinsintheAmaretto,andleavecoveredwithplasticwrapatroomtemperature6to8hoursorovernight.
2.Preheattheovento350degrees.Cut4slicesofthebreadinto½-inchdice,andspreadthedicedbreadonthebottomofacasseroledish.Sprinkletheraisinsontopofthebreadcubes,andpouranyremainingliquidoverthe
bread.Cuttheremaining8slicesofbreadinhalfdiagonally,andthencuteachhalfsliceinhalfdiagonallytocreate4eventrianglesperslice.Dipthetrianglesintothebutter,andarrangeonthetopoftheraisins,overlappingthetrianglesslightly.Pouranyremainingbutteroverthetopofthebread.
3.Whisktheyolks,vanillapaste,andsugarinalargebowluntilcombined.Bringthemilkandcreamtoaboilinaheavysaucepanoverhighheat,andpourthehotmixontotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantly.Pourthewarmeggmixtureoverthebread,makingsureallofthebreadiscoated,andsetasidethecoatedbreadfor20minutestoallowtheeggmixturetosoakintothebread.
4.Placethecasseroledishinaroastingtrayfilledwithhotwaterhalfwayupthesidesofthecasseroledish,andbakeonthemiddlerackintheovenfor30to45minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownontopwiththefillingjustset.
5.Removethedishfromtheovenandroastingtray,andsprinklewiththeextrasugar.Broiloruseacrèmebrûléetorchtocaramelizethesugar.Sprinklewiththetoastedslicedalmonds,anddustwithpowderedsugar.Coolslightly,andservewarmwithajugofcreamandsomefreshberries.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS.
BreadandButterPudding
GREEKYOGURTANDSTRAWBERRYCHEESECAKE
This cheesecake works well with other fruit besides strawberries. I wouldsometimesuseblueberriesasatopping.Arrangethemneatlyincirclescoveringthetopofthecheesecakeanddrizzlewithhoneybeforeserving.
Crust6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted1½cupsgrahamcrackercrumbs
1cupfinelychoppedpecans¼cuplightbrownsugar1lemon,zestonly
Cheesecake
1cupcottagecheese
1(7-ounce)containerthickGreekyogurt½cupsugar
1teaspoonvanillapaste
2cupsheavycream,whippeduntilstiff
1packetunflavoredgelatin3tablespoonslemonjuice,about1lemon4cupsstrawberries,sliced½cupvanillasugar(seepage76)1.Forthecrust,linea13×9-inchbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Preparethecrustbymixingthebutter,grahamcrumbs,pecans,
brownsugar,andlemonzesttogetherinalargebowl.Spreadevenlyontothelinedbakingsheetandpressdownfirmly.Refrigerateforatleast1hour.2.Forthecheesecake,blendthecheeseinaprocessoruntilsmooth.Addtheyogurt,sugar,andvanilla,andblendagain.Transferthemixtoalargebowl,andfoldinthewhippedcream.
3.Dissolvethegelatinwiththelemonjuiceinasmallpan,andheatuntilthegelatinsoftens.Pourthegelatinintothecheesemix,andstirinquicklytoavoidanylumps.Spreadthecheesecakemixoverthecrumbbaseandrefrigerateforabout2hours.
4.Mixthestrawberrieswiththevanillasugarandleavetoinfuseforabout30minutes.Arrangeneatlyontopofthecheesecake.
MAKES8SERVINGS
PEACHPRINCESS
ThisdishwasagreatwayofusinguptheWindsorpeachesthatweretoobruisedfor the dessert dishes. We also made it using pears instead of peaches. AtBalmoralwehadtodoubletherecipeandpouronehalfintoasilverjetandtheotherhalfintoayellowplasticTupperwarecontainer—justincasetherewasaBBQandtheywantedtotakethedishwiththem.Notethatyou’llmakedoubletheamountofJell-Oyouneed.That’sallright,thekidswilllovethetreat!
1packetunflavoredgelatin
1¼cupswholemilk,divided2eggs,separated⅓cupsugar
1teaspoonvanillapaste
1(3-ouncebox)lemonJell-O2cupswater,divided¾cupheavycream3ripepeaches,skinnedandhalvedExtrawhippedcream1.Inalargebowldissolvethegelatinin¼cupmilk.Whisktheeggyolks,sugar,andvanillapasteinalargebowluntilcombined.Bringtheremaining1cupmilktoaboilinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Removefromtheheat,andslowlypourthemilkintotheeggyolkmixture,whiskingconstantly.Pourthemixturebackintothesaucepan,stirringoverlowheatuntilitstartstothickenandcoatthebackofthespoon.Removefromtheheat,pourtheeggmixtureoverthedissolvedgelatin,andwhiskuntilcombined.Strainthegelatinmixthroughafinestrainerintoalargebowl,andrefrigerateuntilcoldandjuststartingtoset,about1hour.Thiswillbecomeacustard.Becarefulnottoletthemixchillfortoolong,oritwillsetfirm.2.EmptytheboxoflemonJell-Ointoabowl.Bring1cupwatertoaboil,andpouritoverthelemonJell-O,stirringtodissolve.Add1cupcoldwater,andrefrigerateuntiltheJell-Ostartstoset,about1hour.
3.Whipthecreamuntilstiffpeaksform.Inaseparatebowl,whiptheeggwhitesuntilstiff,andcarefullyfoldthemintothecustardmixalongwiththewhippedcream.Spoonintoasoufflédish,andrefrigeratethemousseuntilfirm.
4.Cuteachpeachinhalfandremovethepits.Layeachhalfcut-sidedownontopofthemousseuniformly.SpoonhalfofthelemonJell-Omixoverthepeachesandmoussesothatthelayerisabout¼inchdeep.Refrigerateuntilset.Garnishwithwhippedcream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
VEILEDFARMER’SDAUGHTER
Thisstrangelynameddishwaspublishedinanationalnewspaperandsoundedgood.Iwasalwayson the lookout fornewrecipes thatcontainedstrawberriesbecausetheroyalfamilyatethemsooftenwheninseason.ItweakedtherecipeandlisteditintheMenuBook,forgettingtoputtherecipeinalongsideforHerMajesty to peruse. I shouldn’t have been surprised when I received the notebelowintheMenuBookwhenitreturnedtothekitchen.
6sliceswholewheatbread,crustsremoved2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon6tablespoonsDemerarasugar
2cupsheavycream
4tablespoonsvanillasugar(seepage76),divided2poundsripestrawberries,raspberries,oracombinationofboth1orange,zestandjuice2tablespoonsCuraçao
1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Pulsethebreadinafoodprocessoruntilfinecrumbsform,andmixwiththecinnamonandDemerarasugar.Spreadontoabakingsheetandbakeforabout10minutes,oruntilthebreadbecomescrispandgolden.Removefromtheoven,andstirthecrumbs,leavingthemonthebakingsheetuntilcool.
2.Whiptheheavycreamwith2tablespoonsvanillasugar.Hullandhalvethestrawberriesintoabowl,andtosswiththeremaining2tablespoonsvanillasugarandtheorangezestandjuice.DrizzlewiththeCuraçao.
3.Inalargeglassservingbowl,placealayerofthefruitfollowedbyalayerofthewhippedcreamandsprinkleonsomeofthesugaredcrumbs.Repeattheprocessandbuildthelayers,finishingwiththecreamandaheavysprinklingofthecrumbs.
MAKES6SERVINGS
QUEENOFPUDDINGS
ThispuddingoriginatedatBuckinghamPalace in the seventeenthcenturyandwas created for Queen Victoria by the palace chefs. The version below isupdated from the original and is one I used at Buckingham Palace andKensingtonPalaceforPrincesWilliamandHarry.PrincessDiana,notahugedesserteater,wouldoccasionallysuccumbtoatasteaswell.
1smallSaraLeepoundcake,cutinto½-inchslices
4eggs
1½cupsgranulatedsugar,divided1teaspoonvanillapaste
2cupswholemilk
1(12-ounce)jarstrawberryjelly4eggwhites,atroomtemperature¼cupslicedalmonds1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Coverthebottomofan8-inchcasseroledishwiththepoundcakeslices.Inalargebowl,beattogetherthewholeeggs,½cupsugar,andthevanillapasteuntillightandlemoncolored.Bringthemilktoaboilinasmallsaucepan,removeitfromtheheat,andslowlywhiskthehotmilkintotheeggsandsugarmixture.Gentlypourthemixtureintothecasseroledish,makingsureyousoakallofthepoundcakeasitrisestothetop.Putthecasseroledishintheovenandbakefor30minutes,oruntilitisfirmlyset.Removethedishfromtheovenandallowittocoolslightly.
2.Inasmallsaucepan,warmthestrawberryjellyandpouritoverthetopofthewarmpudding.
3.Makeameringuebywhiskingtheeggwhitesuntilstiff,addingtheremaining1cupsugargradually.Thestandingmixerwithaballoonwhiskattachmentdoesagreatjobhere.Afterthesugarhasbeenfullyincorporatedintothewhites,andthewhitesarestiffandglossy,spoonthemeringuemixtureintoa
pipingbagwithastartipandpipearoundtheedgesofthecasseroleontopofthejelly.Thenmakeatrellisacrossthemiddleofthedishtoleavesomeoftheredjellyshowingbetweenthemeringue.Sprinklethealmondsontopofthemeringue.
4.Returnthecasseroledishtotheovenforabout10minutesuntilthemeringueandalmondsstarttobrown.Servehotwithwhippedcreamoricecream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
BALMORALSTRAWBERRYJAM
Balmoral was the only place we made jams and jellies, and we would haveenoughfruitfromtheBalmoralgardenstomakeenoughtolastayear.JamwasusuallymadeonaSundaymorning.Itwastheonedayeachweekwecouldbecertain that lunch would be in the house, not outdoors. No one ever shot orhunted on the Sabbath. Nothing worse than having to put together a plumpuddingforashootinglunchjustasyourjamhits220degrees.
Thishomemadejamtechniqueisdifferentfrommost,sincethereisnofinalhotwaterbath to seal the jar.Theheat from thehot jamseals the jarandnofurtherprocessingisrequired.
4cupsstrawberries,hulled(notoverripeandnotwashed)1¾cupsgranulatedsugar3tablespoonslemonjuice
1tablespoonvanillapaste
1.Sterilizea12-ouncejellyjar,screw-ontop,andlidinboilingwater.Removefromthewaterandturnthelidupsidedown,allowingittodry.Keepthejarwarmsothatitdoesn’tcrackwhenyoupourinthehotjam.
2.Cutthestrawberriesinhalfandaddthemtoan8-quartsaucepanwiththesugar,lemonjuice,andvanillapaste.Placethepanoverahighheat,andstirthestrawberriesuntilthesugarstartstodissolve.Bringthejammixturetoarollingboiluntilthetemperaturereaches220°Fonacandythermometer.
3.Removethepanfromtheheat,stir,andletcoolfor10minutes.Pourthejamintothewarmjar,placethelidontop,andtightenthescrewband.Turnthejarupsidedownforabout30minutesandthenrightsideupuntilitcoolscompletely.Thiswillstopalloftheberriesfromsinkingtothebottomofthejar.Oncethejariscold,testthelidbypressingthetop.Ifitspringsback,itneedstoberefrigeratedandusedwithinaweek.Iftheliddoesn’tspringback,thenthejamwillkeepforuptooneyear.
Remember,don’tputyourlabelsonuntilthejamiscooled.Otherwisethegluebackingwillmeltrightoff.
MAKESONE12-OUNCEJAR
CHAPTERSIX
SandringhamHouse
ARoyalChristmas
SandringhamHouse,wheretheWindsorscelebrateChristmasandNewYear,isoneofthemostbeautifulhomesinEngland.Thehouseisamixofstyles,mostlyVictorian,andsitsonsixtyacresofstunninggardenswithconsiderableacreageset aside for a wonderful apple orchard. On the property there is a convertedstablethathousesamuseumofroyalvehiclesandmemorabiliaandtwosmallerhomes,WoodFarmandParkHouse.
Inside the house are royal collections of porcelain, jade, furniture, andpriceless family portraits. In many ways, Sandringham epitomizes EnglishcountrylivingandisaperfectplacefortheWindsorfamilytobetogetherfortheholidays.
SandringhamHousewasmy favorite royal residence.Thehouse is elegantandthegrounds,situatedonflatNorfolkland,providebeautifulviewswhereveryou cast your gaze. The kitchen was like the rest of the house—warm,welcoming,easytospendtimein.
TheQueenhadalwaysusedSandringhamforherNewYear’scelebrations.Butafter thefireatWindsor,herstayatSandringhamwasextendedtoincludeChristmas. So now the Windsors stay at Sandringham from December 23through the end of January. At Christmas the house is decorated with hollyleavesandberriesandatwenty-footNorfolkpinehasbeenchoppeddownontheestateandsitsinsidetheWhiteDrawingRoom,glitteringwithdecorations.Thefireplacesareblazingwithlogfiresandeventhoughitmaybecoldandsnowyoutside,everyonefeelswarmandpamperedinside.
The chefs and other staff arrive at Sandringham around December 20 toready the house. As chefs we know that we’ll be feeding one hundred fortypeoplefourmealsaday,soweimmediatelyprepourmeatandfish,checkonthevegetableorders, andmake several dozenmincepies to freeze andbake later.Besidespies, I’dalsomake severalganache-coveredYule logs for thenursery
andtheroyaldiningroom.OneyearIdecoratedthenurseryYulelogwithafatmarzipan Father Christmas squashing Rudolph. There was a more sedate logwithasprayofmarzipanpoinsettiasforthegrown-ups.
Most of the royal family doesn’t arrive until Christmas Eve. Their RangeRoversdrive to the largefrontentrance,depositing the family into thehouse’smainsittingroomcalledtheSaloon.Thenthechauffeursswingtothesideofthehouse and the real unloading begins. It’s backstairs bedlam. Personal valets,assistedbytheQueen’stravelingyeoman,aredirectingluggageuptotherooms.Christmasgiftsare transferred fromeachcar to thewhite linen-covered trestletables in the White Drawing Room, which have name cards and ribbonsindicatingwhereeachperson’spresentsshouldbeplaced.Therearehampersoffoodmakingtheirwayintothekitchen,eitherbroughtpersonallybytheroyals,orreceivedasgiftsandshared.
I remember each year the Sultan ofBruneiwould send over an enormousFortnum&Masonhamper, filledwithsugareddriedfruits,hams,cheeses,andbiscuitsfortheQueen,andperhapsalsoforPrinceCharlesandPrinceAndrew.Besidesthat,friendsknowthattheWindsorsarealwayshappytoreceivegiftsoffood and drink, so there are plenty of special liqueurs, pâtés, smoked turkeys,andrarecheesesthatmaketheirwaytothekitchen.HarrodsalwayssentoveranenormoushamperthatfaithfullycontainedapâtédefoiegrasenCroûte.Therearesweetsandlotsofcandy.Oneteatimetreatthatthewholefamilyadoresarecookies called “Chocolate Olivers.” They are round, dark-chocolate-dippedcookiesthatcomeinalongtelescope-likebox.
NotYourTypicalFruitcake
Among the foodwe transported toSandringhameachChristmaswere sixroyalChristmascakes.TheroyalfamilywouldhaveoneforChristmasandoneforNewYear’s,ditto thenurseryand thestaff.“Christmascake” isaeuphemismforthatoftenmalignedgiftcalled“fruitcake.”Nowbeforeyougroanand turn thepage, I have to tell you that these arevery, verygoodcakes.
They are started inOctober, just after theBalmoral summer holidays.Butterandsugararecreamedtogetherbeforeaddingflour,eggs,molasses,groundalmonds,andmarinateddriedfruitthathavebeensoakedinbrandy
fromthenightbefore.Thefruitisacombinationoforangeandlemonzestsandjuices,raisins,currants,sultanas,glacéedcherries,andcitronpeel.
Thecakesarebakedslowlyforeighthoursinalowoven,thenprickedall over and soakedwith brandy and sugar syrup.Wrapped in parchmentandplastic,thecakesarestoredinacoolplaceand“fed”morebrandyandsugar syrupevery fewweeks.Their finaldecoration is fondant icingwithadditionalflouncesandfrills.Theflavorofthefruit,havingbeenbaptizedinbrandy,isrichandmellow.NowIpromisethatagiftofthatcakewithatinofgoodteawillbegreetedwithgratitude,notgroans.
CakesdecoratedwithSantaandhissleighforthenurseryandSantaclimbingoutofthechimneyfortheroyaltable.Allinmarzipan,ofcourse.OnecakehasSonictheHedgehogonit,madethesameyearWilliamand
HarrygotaPlayStationforChristmas.AChristmascakeshowsSandringhamhouseinthesnow,decoratedbyRobertPine,thepastrychef.
SneakAttack
William and Harry would get all sorts of athletic equipment, games,Nintendosandelectronictoys,books,andcraftsforChristmas.ButI’llnotforgettheyeartheyeachreceivedverylargewaterguns.Well, thosegunswereabighit.Andthetargetswereusuallythechefs!AllChristmasweek,wewithstoodsuddenattacksfromtheboys.IwouldbepreparinglunchinthekitchenandsuddenlyIwassoakedwithwater.Andtheykeptdoingit.“That’sit!”Iwouldyellattheboys.“Youaregoingtogetitnow!”Buttheboyswouldlaughandrunaway,carefullyplottingouttheirnextattack.
Mychefmate,Arthur Smith, and I decided to fight back.Weheadedinto townand founda fantastic local toyshop that soldwaterguns,blackplasticreplicasofIsraeliUzis.Thesewillbegreat,wethought.Finallyabitofcomeuppanceforthosetwo.WereturnedtoSandringhamjustastwilightwasdeepeningandathicksnowhadbeguntofall.Afteraquickchangeintoour chefwhitesweheadedacross theparking lot toward thekitchenwithourwatergunsbyoursides.
Three feet across the yard, I heard a click and a deep voice yell,“Freeze! Armed police!” We both froze. Out of nowhere an officerappeared. As he got closer he recognized us. Fortunately for us he wasLondonpolice,notlocal.
“Whathaveyougotthere?”heasked.BeforeIcouldsayanything,Arthurpipedup,“Ohthese?Thesearefor
WilliamandHarry.Wearegoingtoshootthemastheycomeoutoftea.”Mymouthdroppedopen.Thatdidn’t sound right! Iquicklyexplained
that they were just water guns. The officer listened to my stammeringwithout cracking a smile. “Best take them back to your rooms, lads,” hesaid.“Rightnow.”
Damn.ArthurandInevergottofireonegoodshot.Notevenone.
OnChristmasEve, theadultsgather in theSaloon toenjoy teawithcakes,scones, and sandwiches on the sideboard. The childrenwould have tea in thenursery,but I think thenanniesalwayshad troublegetting themtocalmdownandeatsomething.WilliamandHarry,alongwiththeircousins,knewthatafterteawasover they could start opening their presents! In fact, thewhole familyopens their presents on Christmas Eve, a break from the English tradition ofChristmasmorning.
Whilelavishgiftgivingiswhatweallwouldassociatewithroyallife,mostof the presents the Windsors give each other are surprisingly modest. Iremember hearing amaid say thatHerMajesty had been thrilled to receive acoveredcasseroledish.Icouldn’tbelieveit.ButtheonewealljokedaboutwastheannualtoiletseatthatPrinceCharleswouldreceiveasagift—heapparentlycollects them!Suchmodest gift givingwas limited to the adults; theWindsorchildrenreceivedtoysandtreatsgalore.Afterall,itwasChristmas,afinetimetospoilthemsilly.
AGiftfromaQueen
AllroyalemployeesgetapresenteachyearfromHerMajesty,handedoverpersonally. Because there were so many staff, there was a catalog sentroundearlier in theyearby theQueen’schiefhousekeeperandyoucouldpickoutexactlywhatyouwanted,withinacertainpricelimit,ofcourse.Soyour annual gift from the Queen wasn’t much of a surprise. Some chefswouldcollectsilverorknivesandbuildupcollectionsovertheyears.Thentherewereothermischievous chefswhowould ask for themost ungainlygifts,likeladdersorlargestockpots,andgrineartoearastheywatchedtheQueenstruggletohandittothem.
I understand that nowHerMajesty gives everyone the same thing: aHalcyonDaysenamelbox.
Eachyearthestaffwerepresentedwitha(store-bought)ChristmaspuddingandnotecardfromtheQueen.
FeedingtheCooks
Itwasn’tuncommontoseeafleetofcarsheadingoutofSandringhamafter
nine at night.With dinner finished we chefs would shower, change, andheadoutforsomelocalgourmetfood.AfewmilesuptheroadandalongthecoastwastheLifeboatInn.Builtfourhundredyearsagoasasmugglers’alehouse, it served the finest moules mariniere I have ever tasted. ThemusselscamelocallyfromBrancasterandmadetheirshort jumpfromtheseatothefryingpan.Theywereservedinabowlthesizeofasatellitedish.With a loaf of crusty bread for mopping the juices and a pint of localAbbotsale,fivechefsandakitchenporterwereinheaven.
CHRISTMASDAYTheWindsors,likeallfamilies,havetheirownChristmastraditionsthatthey
lookforward toyearafteryear.OnChristmasDay, theyawake tostockingsatthefootof theirbeds,stuffedwithsmallgiftsandfruit,and tobreakfastbeingreadiedforthemdownstairs.Breakfastisn’ttooleisurelysincethefamilyattendsmorning services together at St. Mary Magdelenes, located right onSandringham Estate. There is usually a crowd of well-wishers and mediagatheredoutsidethechurchtoseetheQueen.
Santaonthesideboard
Bythetimechurchisoverandeveryonehasreturnedtothehouse,Christmaslunch is justabout ready.This is thebigfestivemealof theday. In thediningroom, twoChristmas treeswithcolored lights flickerawayas the royal familypullsChristmascrackers, reads jokes,anddonspapercrowns.Even theQueenwearsherpaper crown!A largecardboardSantaClausdecorated in red tissuepaperisceremoniallyperchedonthesideboard,itsinsidesstuffedwithgifts.ThefamilydrawslotstoseewhogetstopullthefirstprizefromSanta’sbelly.
Traditionally the centerpiece of the meal is comprised of large goldenroastedturkeyswithallthetrimmings.TheseNorfolkbirdscomefromthelocalbutcher, Scoles in Dersingham, along with all the beef, lamb, and pork weserved the royal family.The turkeys are servedwhole and carved right in thediningroombytheheadchef.Wewouldroastaboutthreetwenty-five-poundersonChristmasmorningjustfortheroyaltable.MoreturkeysweremadefortheonehundredstaffmembersweservedChristmaslunch.Thesmelloftheroastingbirdswouldfillthewholekitchenanddriveuschefscrazy.
To go along with the turkey, there would be sausages wrapped in bacon,brusselssproutswithbraisedchestnuts,glazedcarrots,roastedpotatoes,mashedpotatoes,cranberrysauce,anddon’tforgetthegravy.Alargeglassbowlofsaladwasamust,andsometimeswewereluckyenoughtoservesamphire.Samphire,whichisalsocalledsaltwortorsalicornia,growsinmuddysaltmarshesbythesea. Picked young and tender, it is pickled to preserve it. It looks a bit likeseaweed,butismorelikeasalty,thinasparagus.Youcaneatitanytimeofyear,butIalwaysassociateitwithChristmasatSandringham.
Christmaslunch,Sandringhamdiningroom
BreadsauceisalsoatraditionalsidedishandisasmuchapartofanEnglishChristmas dinner as stuffing is a part of an American Thanksgiving. Likestuffing,breadsaucewascreatedasacleverwaytouseupstalebread,butitisquite different in a number ofways. First, it’smadewith heatedmilk steepedwith onion, cloves, salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Butter and bread crumbs arebeatenintomakeathickbutstillsaucyconsistency.Breadsaucecan’tbemadeveryfarinadvanceandisreallybestservedassoonasit’scooked.Youspoonitrightnexttoyourslicedturkey.
After themain course, therewould be dessert, then cheese.DessertwouldincludetwoChristmaspuddings,brandysauce,perhapssomewarmedmincepieand brandy butter. The cheese board would usually include soft homemadeWindsor cheese and aDerby cheese,which is an agedGloucestershire cheesemade with the addition of sage. There would also be a rich doubleGloucestershire cheese and a Royal Windsor. A Royal Windsor looks like alargecapitalE,athree-layeredcheesewhosemiddle,top,andbottomlayersarecomposedofaport-fortifiedcheddar,withStiltonfillinginthespacesbetween.We would also set out a huge aged Stilton, which was sent every year fromHarrods. Itwas placed on a large silver traywith awhite linen napkin foldedaroundthecrust.Thetoplidwasremovedandportwinepouredoverthetopofthe cheese.Lovely.Therewas coffee for anyonewhowanted, aHiggins darkroast,andchocolateandcandiespiledhighonthesideboard.
Afterameal likethat it’s timeforthefamilytogatherroundintheSaloonand,liketherestofGreatBritain,watchtheQueen’sbriefChristmasbroadcast.AfterwardHerMajestywouldusuallytakethedogsoutforawalkandtherestof thefamilywouldeither takeagoodhikeinthesnowortakeanap.Byfiveo’clockifanyonewashungry—andtherewerealwaysafew—teawasservedona sideboard laden with chocolate Yule logs, Christmas cake, brandy snaps,mincepies,andsandwiches.
Christmaseveningtherewasalwaysapartyswinginginthestaffrechall.Assecretary of the Royal Household Social Club (my very official title!), I wasusuallyspinningrecordsorworkingthebar.Allthestaffcameouttodanceandhaveafewdrinks.Afterourhardwork,itwasourturntoparty.Andsomeofusdidthatwithavengeance.ThereisnothinglikehavingaheavyheadwhenyouhavetogetupearlythenextmorningforBoxingDay.
ChristmasPudding
Thanks to Dickens, plum pudding, also called Christmas pudding, issynonymouswithanEnglishYule.I’vealwaysbelievedthatcertainsweetsanddesserts,unlikesavoryrecipes,remainfixedinthecollectivememory,perennial favorites for centuries.Steamedpuddingsareaclassofold,oldEnglishrecipesthatmodernBritainhasneverabandoned.
DuringFebruaryorMarcheachyearwewould sterilize the enormous
kitchensinkandfillitwithdriedfruitandraisinsthathadbeenmaceratedinalcohol. Thenwewould add a bit of flour, sugar, and various spices andpeels.Thepuddingswerepackedintomason-warebasins,steamed,cooled,and refrigerated. This “kitchen sink” method would yield about fortypuddings.WhenIwasreadytoserveit,Iwouldresteamthepuddingoveralowheat. Itwouldbe turnedoutontoa silver trayand thenwarmbrandywaspouredover thepuddingandsetaflame.Thealcoholburnsoffas thepudding is marched into the royal dining room. Yes, it’s a little bit ofspectacle,butnot just a royalone. It’s traditionallyEnglish, commonandgood.
LeftoversforDinner
Leftovers?ForHerMajesty?No,notreally.Royaltraditionsdon’tincludeleftoverturkeysandwiches.Notyet,atleast!
ButChristmasdinnerwasservedinamorerelaxedbuffetstyle—notasit-downdinner—andthefamilywasfreetotasteawidevarietyoffoods,some very traditional and others moremodern. On the classic royal sidewould be stuffed boars head, boiled beef tongue, smoked turkey, Parmaham, and pâté de foie gras enCroûte.These stood alongside spinach andcream cheese roulades and salmon and vegetable terrines. Minted lambcutletsandwholesidesofpoachedanddecoratedsalmonwerepopulartoo.
BOXINGDAYBoxingDay,thedayafterChristmas,isauniquelyEnglishholiday.ThereareanumberoftheoriesastowhyitiscalledBoxingDay,someinvolvingpugilism!Actually, BoxingDay is also known as St. Stephen’s Day and its origins arefound in the practice of giving either cash or boxing up gifts for the poor.Traditionally,giftsamongequalswereexchangedonorbeforeChristmasDay,butgiftsforthepoorwerebestowedthedayafter.
ChristmasyulelogsandahappybirthdaycakeforPrincessAlice,DuchessofGloucester,theQueen’saunt.HerbirthdaywasChristmasDay.
TodayBoxingDayiscelebratedasadayofsport.Soccermatchesandhorse
racing are extremely popular ways to spend the day. For the royal family,BoxingDay isalwaysspent shooting.Norfolk’s farm landscape ishome toallsorts of birds. Partridge, quail, woodcock, wild duck, and pheasant find theirwayintotheroyalcrosshairsandendupontheroyaldinnertable.Themenstartshootingaroundnineinthemorning,andtheladiesjointhemforlunch.Sinceitis the middle of winter, the cold weather drives everyone indoors and lunchmightbe set up inoneof the stables atWoodFarm.Food ispacked inAscotboxes,transported,andsetuponsite.
NotethankingmeonbehalfoftheQueenMumforsendingherflowersfromtheroyalhouseholdsocialclub.
Shootinglunchesalwayslookedbothrusticandluxurious,atrueglimpseofthepast.Herewewereinthisunheatedantiquebarnservinglunchonbeautifulsilver trays ladenwith steaming hot food.The shooters have come inside, redcheeked,andarewarmingupwithshotsofsloeginbeingpassedaround.
WhattoWear
In hermemoirs, Sarah,Duchess ofYork, detailed the changes of clothesrequiredonChristmasDay: tweedskirtandcardiganforbreakfast; stylishdress(andcoat,hat,andgloves)forchurch;silkdressforlunch;casualskirtand blouse for the afternoon; silk skirt and blouse for tea; and finally aformal gown for dinner.That is a lot of changingduring the day and theduchessclearlythoughtitwasawasteoftime.Itiseasierforhernow.TheduchessspendsChristmasatWoodFarmontheSandringhamestate,whereshecanseeherex-husbandanddaughtersandalsovisitwithsomemembersofthefamilyinamorerelaxedfashion.
Soupwasoftenservedtofendoffthecoldandtheremightbeaselectionofsmallsavorypieslikechickenandleekpie,chickencurry,ormuttonandlambpies. A warm stew would follow, perhaps a venison and red wine stew or ablanquettedeveau.Itvariedabitdependinguponwhatthekitchenhadonhand.Boulangèreormashedpotatoesandsautéedcabbagewouldbeservedalongside.Afterthat,andanothershotofgin,nobodyreallymindedthatthebarnwascold.Theywereplentywarm.
Fordessert,wewouldusuallyserveabitoffriedplumpuddingwithbrandybutter, treacle tarts, or mince pies. Treacle is the English word for molasses.Thoughtoconfusethingsevenmore,wedon’tusetreacleintreacletart;weusegoldensyrup.Goldensyrupisreducedsugarcanesyrupthecolorofhoney.
I’d always heard that Sandringhamwas at its prettiest in July, around thetimeoftheSandringhamflowershow.Ineversawtheestatethen,butIcantellyou that inwinter the landscapewas breathtaking, especiallywhen it snowed.After a snowstorm the frontof thehouse looked likea scene fromapostcard.Lunchinthebarnmayhavewarmedtheroyalsupabit,butnobodycouldresistgettingbackoutside.Itwassoquietandthecold,cleanairandnaturalbeautyofSandringhamputeveryoneatease.
Nowonder it was Princess Diana’s favorite royal residence. Shemay nothave joined in the shooting,but she loved togo forwalks in theafternoonallalone“toclearthecobwebs”assheputit.ShewouldwalkpastParkHouseandstoptotakealookatit.Itwasaspecialhousetoher.Afterall,itwaswhereshewasborn.
WoodFarm
Wood Farm was a small farmhouse on the estate, which wouldaccommodate family members from time to time. If the Queen wasattendingdogtrialsortheDukewascarriagedrivingatSandringham,theywould stay at Wood Farm rather than open up the big house. From myperspectiveasachef, thiswasasupcloseandpersonalas itgotwith theroyalfamily.WoodFarmis thesizeofaregularhomeandstaffwasverysmall with one butler, one chef, one dresser, one footman, one chauffer,and,ofcourse,twelvecorgis.
Thediningroomwasrightnexttothekitchen,andweknewwhentheQueenwascomingthroughforlunchbecausethedoorwouldopenandthedogswouldbeherdedintothekitchen.Icouldfeedasmanyastwelveintheroyaldiningroomandsixinthestaffroom,allthewhilenavigatingaroundthe dogs,whichwere jumping up for tidbits.You couldn’t push the dogsaway,fortheQueenwouldhearthemyelpinthenextroomandknowwhatwasgoingon.AttheendofthetriptheQueenwouldwalkpastthekitchenwindow, wave, and say thank you for a nice weekend. Now that is acompliment.
WoodFarm
AtWoodFarm,playingwithoneofHerMajesty’scorgis
RINGINGINTHENEWYEARNewYear’sEvewasabiggerpartyforthestaffthanfortheroyalfamily.Yes,therewasachefonduty torefill theroyalmulledwineandcanapés,butmosteveryone else was in the rec hall kicking it up. Everyone, that is, but thefootmen.Theywerestillonduty,fulfillinganancientScottishcustomdeemedtobringluckfortherestoftheyeartothehouseanditsinhabitants.Thiscustomdictatedthattheyoungest,darkest-hairedfootmanwastocrossthethresholdintothehouseon thestrokeofmidnight.Once theyhadcompleted that ritual, theycame over to the rec hall to celebrate the New Year with the rest of us. IrememberCyrilDickman,thepalacestewardwhoservedmorethanfiftyyearswith the royal family, stepping up as our official New Year’s Eve host. Wewouldall stand in a circlewithCyril in themiddle andhewould ring a largehandbellaswesang“AuldLangSyne.”
NewYear’sDaymenuandturkeyagain
Anotherroyalyearhadcometoaclose.
MASHEDPOTATOES
Ispentawholeyearat theSavoyHotel justpreparingvegetables.Duringthattime I probably made about ten gallons of mashed potatoes every day.EventuallyIfine-tunedarecipethatmostsaymakesamazingmashedpotatoes.Thesecretisinmashingorricingsotherearenolumps,addingplentyofcreamandbutterandtastingagainandagainuntiltheseasoningisjustperfect.Don’tskimponthebutteronthetop.Thelookoneveryone’sfacesasthefirstpersonspoonsintothepotatoesandthemeltedbutterrunsintothemashisworthit.
2poundsredpotatoes,peeledandquartered
½stick(4tablespoons)unsaltedbutter⅓cupheavycream
2teaspoonssalt,ormoretotaste
⅛teaspoongratednutmeg⅛teaspoongroundwhitepepper½stick(¼cup)saltedbutter,meltedfordecoration(optional)1tablespoonfinelychoppedparsley(optional)1.Placethepotatoesinalargepot,addcoldwatertoabout1inchabovethepotatoes,cover,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheattoasimmer,andcookuntilthepotatoesaretenderwhenprickedwithafork,about20minutes.2.Drainoffthewater,andputthepotatoesinapanoverlowheatfor1to2minutestodrythemthoroughly.Mashthepotatoeswithapotatomasherorpassthemthroughariceruntiltherearenolumps.Stirinthebutter,heavycream,salt,nutmeg,andwhitepepper.Adjusttheseasoningandplaceintoaservingdish.Flattenthetopandgarnishwiththemeltedbutterandparsleyifdesired.
MAKES6SERVINGS
ROASTTURKEY
1(14-pound)turkey3onions,peeledandchopped4carrots,peeledandchopped6ribscelery,chopped2bayleaves2cupswhitewine
3cupschickenbroth
1stickbutter,softened
2tablespoonsdriedthyme
Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Removetheturkeyfromtherefrigeratorabout1½hoursbeforecookingtoallowittocometoroomtemperature.Preheattheovento325degrees.Placetheonions,carrots,celery,andbayleavesinthebottomofalargeroastingpan.Pourthewineandbrothoverthetop.
2.Removeallthegibletsinsidetheturkey.Rinsetheturkeythoroughlyandpatdry.Rubthesoftenedbutteralloverthebreastandlegsoftheturkey,andsprinklealloverwiththethymeandthesaltandpepper.Laytheturkeyonitssideontopofthevegetablesandroastfor1½hours.Coverwithfoiliftheturkeystartstobrowntooquickly.Turntheturkeyontoitsotherside,androastforanotherhour.Laytheturkeybreastsideup,removeanyfoil,androastuntiltheinternaltemperatureinthethickestpartofthethighregisters170degreesandtheskinisgoldenbrown.
3.Removetheturkeyfromtheovenandplaceitonalargewarmedplate.Tentitwithfoiltokeeptheturkeywarmandletitrestfor30minutes.Strainthebrothatthebottomofthepan,skimanyfatthatrisestothetop,anduseasis,orthickenwithall-purposeflourandbuttertomakeaclassicturkeygravy.
MAKES8SERVINGS
RoastTurkey
PIQUANTDILLANDLIMESAUCE
4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,divided2clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed½cupheavycream1tablespoonsugar2teaspoonshoney2teaspoonsDijonmustard4tablespoonsfreshlimejuice
2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshdill
In a small sauté pan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add thecrushedgarlic,stirforaminute,andthenaddthecream,sugar,honey,mustard,and lime juice.Whisk the ingredients together, and increase the heat until thesauce starts to boil. Reduce the liquid by half, or until it gets to a syrupconsistency. Remove the pan from the heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoonsbutter,andshake thepanuntil thebutterblends into thesauce.Stir in thedill.Keepthesaucewarmuntilyouarereadytoserveit,butdonotletitreturntoaboil.
MAKES1CUPOR4SERVINGS
CURRIEDCHICKENPIES
½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter
2tablespoonsmildcurrypowder
¼cupall-purposeflour
1cupchickenbroth
½cupplus1tablespoonheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1(2½-pound)roastedchicken,skinandbonesremoved1(17-ounce)boxfrozenpuffpastry,thawed1egg,beaten1.Preheattheovento375degrees.Inasautépanoverhighheat,meltthebutterandstirinthecurrypowder.Addtheflourandstiruntilcombined.Graduallywhiskinthechickenbrothandcream,seasonwiththesaltandpeppertotaste,andreducetheheattoasimmer,forabout5minutes.
2.Dicethechickeninto¼-inchcubes,andstirintothesauce.Addalittlemorebrothifthesauceistoothick.Heatuntilbubbling,andadjusttheseasoning.Removefromtheheatandallowtocool.
3.Rolloutbothsheetsofpuffpastryonalightlyflouredtableintoarectangleabout⅛inchthick.Usinga2-inchcookiecutter,cut48circlesoutofthedough.Place1½teaspoonsofthecurriedchickenfillinginthecenterofhalfthecircles.
4.Brushtheotherhalfofthepastrycircleswiththebeatenegg,andpress,brushedeggsidedown,ontothetopofthechickenmix,sealingthepastryedgestogether.Brushthetopsofthepieswiththeremainingbeatenegg,andtransferthepiestoabakingsheet.
5.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removetoacoolingrackandallowthepiestocoolslightly.
MAKES24SMALLPIES
VENISONSTEW
2poundsvenisonhaunchorleg,cutinto1-inchdice1½cupsredwine2mediumonions,finelychopped3ribscelery,chopped2carrots,peeledandchopped1bayleaf
1teaspoondriedthyme
4clovesgarlic,crushed6juniperberries,crushed1teaspoonrosemary
2tablespoonsoliveoil
½stick(¼cup)butter½cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsbeefbrothSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
2tablespoonsredcurrantjelly1.Marinatethevenison,redwine,onions,celery,carrots,bayleaf,thyme,garlic,juniperberries,androsemarytogetherinaziplockbag.Sealthebagandrefrigerateforuptothreedays,butatleastovernight.
2.Preheattheovento350degrees.Strainthemeat,vegetables,andherbsintoacolander,reservingtheredwinemixtureforuselater.InaheavyDutchovenorcoveredcasserole,heattheoilandbutteroverhighheatuntilthebuttermelts.Addthemeatandvegetablesandsautéinbatchessonottocrowdthepan,untilthemeatstartstobrown.Repeatwithallthemeat.Setasideallthebrownedmeatandvegetables.Inthesamepot,addtheflour.Stirforseveralseconds,andthenaddthebeefbrothandthereservedredwinemixturefromthemarinade.Returnthevenisonandvegetablestothepot,andseasonwiththesaltandpeppertotaste.
3.Bringthesaucetoasimmer,cover,andplaceonthemiddleovenshelf.Braisefor1½hours,oruntilthemeatistender.Removefromtheoven,adjustthe
seasonings,andremovethebayleaf.Stirintheredcurrantjellyandserve.
MAKES4SERVINGS
SUPREMEOFPHEASANTSTUFFEDWITHGOATCHEESE
4(5-ounce)pheasantbreasts,from2(3-pound)youngpheasants
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
½cupskinnedandfinelydicedredbellpepper
1pinchdriedthyme
Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper¼cupgoatcheese,softened
2tablespoonsoliveoil1(14-ounce)packagefrozenpuffpastry,thawed1eggyolk
2teaspoonssesameseeds
1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Removethetenderloinfromeachpheasantbreast,andsetthetenderloinsaside.Turneachbreastskinsidedown.Ata45-degreeangle,makeanincisionlengthwiseoneachsideofthepheasantbreast.Thiscreatesapocketthatcanbestuffed.Setthebreastsaside.
2.Preparethefillingbymeltingthebutterinasmallskilletsetovermediumheat.Addthepeppersandsautéuntilsoftandlimp.Addthethyme,andseasonwiththesaltandpepper.Removefromtheheatandcool.Dividethegoatcheeseandstuffanequalamountineachbreastpocket,followedbytheredpeppers.Laythereservedtenderloinontopofthefilling,andsmooththeraisedpheasantmeatbackoverthetenderloin,creatingaplump,butnormal-
shaped,pheasantbreast.Seasonthebreastswithsaltandpepper.3.Heattheoliveoilintheskillet,andsearthebreastsforabout2minutesperside,browninglightly.Removefromthepantoaplateandcool.
4.Openthepuffpastry,androllouttoabout¼inchthick.Cut8longstrips,approximately1×18inches,andbrushonesideofeachstripwiththeeggyolk.
5.Windthepastryaroundthepheasantbreast,startingatthepointandoverlappingslightlytocoverthepheasantinaspiralcone.Theegg-yolk-brushedsideofthedoughshouldbefacingup,nottouchingthepheasantbreast.Youwillprobablyneed2piecesofthedoughtocovereachbreast,andmakesurethepiecesarejoinedontheunderside.Sprinklethesesameseedsonthetop,andplacebreastsonabakingsheet.Chillthepheasantsforabout30minutes.Youcanprepareuptothisstage12hoursahead.
6.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor25to30minutes,oruntilthepastryisagoldenbrown.Removetoaplateandletrestinawarmplacefor5minutes.Toserve,sliceacrossthebreastonthebiastoshowthefilling,andservewithPiquantDillandLimeSauce(page162).
MAKES4SERVINGS
LAMBRAAN(INDIANLEGOFLAMB)
3½to4poundsbonelesslegoflamb6clovesgarlic,crushed1onion,finelydiced2tablespoonsoliveoil1cupplainyogurt
1teaspoonsalt
½cupgroundrawcashewnuts
1tablespoongarammasala
1tablespoonfreshginger,crushed2tablespoonsredchilisauce(Srirachaorotherchilegarlicsauce)
1teaspoongroundcumin½cupchoppedfreshmint1.Rinseandpatdrythelegoflamb.Scorethelamb,cutting½inchdeepintotheskinabout6to8times.Placethegarlic,onion,oliveoil,yogurt,salt,cashewnuts,garammasala,crushedginger,chilisauce,andcuminintoalargeziplockbag,andmixwell.Addthelamb,rubbingthemarinadeintothelamb,especiallyintothecutareas.Refrigerateforatleasttwohoursanduptotwodays.Theflavorwillgetstrongerthelongerthelambmarinates.
2.Preheattheovento350degrees.Removethelambfromthebagontoaroastingpan,andpourthemarinadeoverthetop.Bakefor2hours,oruntilthelambistender.Bastewiththejuicesseveraltimesduringcooking.
3.Removethelambfromtheroastingpan,andallowtorestforabout15minutes.Reducetheremainingmeatjuices/marinadetoasauceconsistency.Slicethelambinto½-inch-thickslices,pourthesauceovertheslices,and
garnishwiththechoppedmint.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
IRISHSTEW
¼cupoliveoil2poundslambleg,cutinto2-inchchunks4mediumpotatoes,peeledandcubedinto1½-inchpieces3largecarrots,peeledandchopped3mediumonions,choppedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper2teaspoonsdriedthyme1cubebeefbouillon1cubechickenbouillon2bayleaves
1quartwaterorless
½cupchoppedfreshparsley1.Heattheoilinalargesautépanuntilhot,butnotsmoking.Searthelambuntilbrown,andsetthemeatasideinabowl.Drainoffallbutathinlayerofoil.Layerthepotatoes,carrots,onions,andlambinaDutchovenorenameledcoveredcasserole.Addsaltandpeppertotaste,thethyme,bouilloncubes,andthebayleavesontop.Addjustenoughwatertocoverthemeatandvegetables.
2.Heatthecasseroleonhighuntiltheliquidjustcomestoaboil.Coverandreducetheheattosimmer.Cookthestewfor2½hours,oruntilthemeatistender.Whendone,removefromtheheat,skimoffthetoplayeroffat,andadjusttheseasonings.Removethebayleaves,andsprinklewiththeparsley.
3.Servehotwithlotsofsodabreadtomopupthejuices.Thisdishisevenbetterreheatedthenextday.
MAKES6SERVINGS
BREASTOFPHEASANTWITHAPEARLBARLEY“RISOTTO”
Theearthyflavorsreallycomethroughinthisdish.Butdon’tworryifyoucan’tgetpheasantorarenotkeenongame;chickenbreastsareafinesubstitute.It’sworth paying a little extra for the chanterelle mushrooms. And if your walletallows,afewmorelmushroomswouldbewonderful.
2pheasantbreasts,or2(5-ounce)chickenbreasts
1tablespoonoliveoil
8sprigsfreshor1⅛teaspoondriedsavory1lemon,zestandjuiceonly1cuppearlbarley2cupscoldwater
1tablespoonbutter
4slices(4ounces)smokedbacon,cutintolardoons2smallleeks,washedandfinelychopped6ounceschanterellesorbuttonmushrooms,cutintobite-sizepieces
2cupschickenbroth6ouncesgoatcheese,softenedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.Marinatethepheasantbreastswiththeoliveoil,lemonjuice,and2sprigs(or⅛teaspoondried)savoryinaziplockbagintherefrigeratorforatleast1hour,orupto24hours.Beforegrilling,removethepheasantbreastsfromtherefrigeratorandallowthemtocometoroomtemperature.2.Bringthepearlbarleyandwatertoaboilinaheavypan,andsimmeroverlowheatfor20minutes,oruntiltheliquidhasevaporatedandthebarleyistender.
Inalargepan,meltthebutterandsautéthebaconuntilitstartstocrisp.Addtheleeksandmushroomsandcookoveramediumheatuntilsoftened.
3.Preheatthegrilltomediumhot.Searthepheasantbreasts,orchickenbreasts,onthegrilloverdirectheatabout4to6minutesperside,oruntiltheyreachpreferreddoneness.Iliketoservethepheasantpink.Seteachbreastonacleanplatetorestfor5minutes.
4.Stirthepearlbarleyandchickenbrothintothebaconandmushroommixture,andsimmeruntiltheliquidstartstoappearlikeashinyglaze.Foldinthegoatcheese,6sprigsfresh(or1teaspoondried)savory,andlemonzest.Addthesaltandpeppertotaste.
5.Spoonthebarleyrisottoontoplatesnexttothepheasant.
MAKES2SERVINGS
BASMATIRICEPILAF
2cupschickenbroth
1tablespoonoliveoil
½onion,finelydiced1cupbasmatirice
1tablespoonbutter
½cupslicedalmondsSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro1.Inasmallsaucepan,bringthechickenbrothtoaboil.Inaseparateheavysaucepan,heattheoliveoiluntilwarm,addtheonion,andsautéuntilitstartstosoften.Stirintherice.Addthehotchickenbrothandstir.Bringthericetoaboil,andthenreducetheheattoasimmer.Coverandcookfor18minutes,oruntilalloftheliquidhasevaporated.
2.Inafryingpan,meltthebutterandaddthealmonds.Cookuntiltheyaregoldenbrown.Transferthecookedriceintoalargebowl,fluffupthegrainswithaforkandaddsaltandpepper.Pourthebutterandalmondsoverthericeandgarnishwiththechoppedcilantro.
MAKES4SERVINGS
MINCEPIES
Filling3cupsapple,peeled,cored,anddiced½cupmixedcandiedpeel2cupsraisins1cupcurrants
1cupgratedbeefsuet1lemon,juiceandzestonly1orange,juiceandzestonly
1cupDemerarasugar
½teaspoongroundnutmeg½teaspoongroundcloves
1teaspoongroundcinnamon
½cupbrandy½cupportwine
Assembly2boxesfrozenpuffpastry,thawed1egg,beaten
2tablespoonspowderedsugar
1.Forthefilling,placetheapples,candiedpeel,raisins,currants,suet,lemonjuiceandzest,orangejuiceandzest,sugar,nutmeg,cloves,cinnamon,brandy,andportwineinalargebowlandstir.Refrigerateinaplasticcontainerwithatight-fittinglidforatleastthreeweeksbeforeusing.Anyleftovermincemeatcanbekeptforuptoayearintherefrigerator.
2.Preheattheovento350degrees.
3.Fortheassembly,rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredtabletoabout⅛inchthick,andcutout48(2-inch)circlesusingacookiecutter.Placeabout1½teaspoonsofmincemeatfillinginhalfthecircles.Brushtheremaining24circleswiththebeatenegg.Press,eggsidedown,ontothetopofthemincemeat,sealingthepastryedgestogether.Brushthetopsofthepieswiththebeatenegg,andtransfertoabakingsheet.
4.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removetoacoolingrackandallowthepiestocoolslightly.Dustwiththepowderedsugarbeforeserving.
MAKES24SMALLINDIVIDUALPIES
TREACLETART
This tart is traditional British comfort food dating back to the seventeenthcenturywhen itwasmade using treacle, theEnglishword formolasses.Mostpeoplenowusegoldensyrup,aproductmadebyevaporatingsugarcanejuiceto the consistency of corn syrup. It has a nutty tastewithout the bitterness ofmolasses.ItisHarryPotter’sfavoritedessertand“HarryWales”enjoyedittoo.
¾cupplus2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,softened¾cupplus2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1egg
1teaspoonvanillapaste
3½cupsall-purposeflour1(1-pound)jargoldensyrup2cups(about7slices)freshwhitebreadcrumbs,withoutcrusts1lemon,juiced1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Creamthebutterandsugaruntillightincolor.Addtheeggandvanillapaste,andslowlyincorporatetheflourtoformaball.Wrapthisdoughinparchmentpaperorplasticwrap,andrefrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeusing.Thiswillmakemorepastrythanyouneedforasingletart,butIalwaysliketohavesomesparedoughintherefrigerator.Itkeepsforatleastthreeweeks.
2.Rolloutthedoughtoabout½inchthick,andlinean8-inchflanringorpiedish.Chilluntilreadytofill.Inalargebowl,combinethegoldensyrup,breadcrumbs,andlemonjuice,andspoonthemixtureintothepieshell.
3.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthepastryedgesaregoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,andallowtocoolslightly.Sliceandservewithicecream,whippedcream,orEnglishcustard.
MAKES6SERVINGS
AnoteinthemenubookfromtheQueen,requestingtreacletart
TRADITIONALIRISHSODABREAD
4cupsall-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingsoda
1teaspoonkoshersalt
1¾cupsbuttermilk
1.Preheattheovento425degrees.Sifttheflour,bakingsoda,andsaltintoalargemixingbowl.Graduallyaddthebuttermilk,stirringgently,andbindingthedryingredientstogetherwiththebuttermilktoformalargeroundofdough.Placethedoughonalightlygreasedbakingsheet,andmakeacrossabout1inchdeepontopofthedough.
2.Coverthesodabreaddoughwithsomethinglikealargecakepanandbakeforabout30minutes.Removethecakepantobrownthebread,andbakefor10moreminutes.Thebread,whenfullybaked,willhaveahollowsoundwhentappedonthebottom.
MAKES6SERVINGS
CHRISTMASCAKE
Christmascakeswereoneofthefirstthingsonourmindsoncethecourtmovedback to Buckingham Palace from Balmoral Castle. We needed about threemonths to let the cakes mature, and we would “feed” them every week withsyrup.IfyouplantomakethisrecipeforChristmas,you’llneedtostartbakinginSeptember.
2½cupscurrants2½cupssultanas¾cupbrandy1cupglacécherries,quartered1orange,zestandjuiceonly1largelemon,zestandjuiceonly4sticks(1pound)unsaltedbutter,softened½cupplus1tablespoonunsulfuredmolasses2¼cupsMuscovadoorturbinadosugar8eggs,lightlybeaten3cupsall-purposeflour
3tablespoonsbrandy
½cupsugar½cupwater½(12-ounce)jarapricotjam
1cuppowderedsugar
1½poundsmarzipan
1tablespoonbrandy1½poundsready-to-rollfondanticing1.Thedaybeforepreparing,mixthecurrants,sultanas,brandy,cherries,andorangeandlemonzestandjuicesina
largebowl,andletthemsteepovernight.
2.Preheattheovento325degrees.Linea10-inchcakepanwithparchmentpaperonthebottomandsides.
3.Creamthebutter,molasses,andsugaruntillightandfluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggsandflour,alternatinguntilbothareincorporated.Graduallystirthemixedfruitintothecakemixuntilcombined,andspoonintothepreparedtin.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenforabout2½hours.Ifthetopstartstobrown,placeasheetofaluminumfoiloverthecakeuntilitiscooked.Thecakeisreadywhenaskewerinsertedintothecenterofthecakecomesoutclean.
4.Removethecaketoacoolingrackandleaveinthepanuntilcold.Removethecakeandwrapitfirstinparchmentpaperandtheninplasticwrap.Leaveinacool,dryplaceforthreemonths,brushingitonceaweekwithasolutionof3tablespoonsbrandymixedwith5tablespoonssugarsyrup(½cupsugardissolvedin½cupwater).
5.Tofinishthecake,heattheapricotjam,passthroughasieve,andliberallybrushitoverthecake.Unwrapthecake,andplaceituprightonacakedish.Inalittlepowderedsugar,rolloutthemarzipanabout⅛inchthickintoacirclebigenoughtocoverthetopandsidesofthecake.Drapethemarzipanoverthecakeassmoothlyaspossible.Trimanyexcessatthebase.Thenrolloutthefondantdoughinalittlepowderedsugarintoacirclebigenoughtocoverthetopandsidesofthecake.Coverthecake,smoothingoutthetopandsides.Thecakewillkeepforuptofourweeks.
MAKES10SERVINGS
MULLEDWINE
1bottleredwine3tablespoonsMuscovadosugar1cupgranulatedsugar
1cinnamonstick
½teaspoongratednutmeg1orange,halvedandsliced1lemon,halvedandsliced1apple,halvedandsliced,coreremoved1bayleaf4wholecloves1cupbrandy1cupportwine
1cupfreshlysqueezedorangejuice
Pour thewine, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange and lemon and apple slices,bay leaf,cloves,brandy,portwine,andorange juice intoa stainless steelpan,andplaceoveralowheatuntiljustwarm.Donotboiloryouwillburnoffthealcohol.Strainintoglassesandserve.
MAKES2QUARTS
BRANDYSAUCE
½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter½cupall-purposeflour1¼cupsmilk1½cupsheavycream⅓cupsugar¼cupbrandyInaheavysaucepansetoverahighheat,meltthebutter,andstirintheflouruntilcombined.Graduallywhiskinthemilkandcreamuntilcombinedandreducetheheattolow.Simmerforabout10minutes,removefromtheheat,andwhiskinthesugarandbrandy.
MAKES6SERVINGS
CHRISTMASPUDDING
We would make ten times this recipe each October after returning fromBalmoral.Thepuddingswouldthenbereadytousethenextyear(preptimeis3months to 2 years). These would be sent to Balmoral and Sandringham forshooting and hunting lunches. For shooting lunches we would cut fingers ofpudding3×1¼inchesandfrybothsidesinclarifiedbutteruntilwarm.Hunterswouldgettwofingersofcoldpuddingintheirsacklunches.
Liketherecipeformincemeat,Christmaspuddingincludesbeefsuet,whichistheveryfinewhitefatsurroundingthekidneys.Itisn’talwayseasytofind,soaskyourlocalindependentbutcherandthey’llusuallyknowwheretogetsome.
½stick(¼cup)unsaltedbutter,plusbutterforgreasing5cupsraisins3cupscurrants
2cupscandiedlemonpeel
2½cupsgratedbeefsuet
6cupsfreshwhitebreadcrumbs
1¼cupsall-purposeflour3½tablespoonspumpkinpiespice3eggs2cupsDemerarasugar
2cupsdarkbeer½cupdarkrum½cupbrandy,plus¼cupbrandy,forpouring1.Usingapastrybrush,lightlygreasethebottomandsidesofthepuddingbowlsandalsothreesquarepiecesofparchmentlargeenoughtocoverthetopsofthebowls.
2.Mixtogetherinalargebowlthebutter,raisins,currants,lemonpeel,suet,breadcrumbs,flour,piespice,eggs,sugar,beer,rum,and½cupbrandy;dividethemixtureequallyamongthepuddingbowls.Placetheparchmentpaperontopofthebowls,andcovereachwithaluminumfoil,wrappingtightlyaroundthebowl.
3.Putthepuddingbowlsinalargesteamerwithalid,makingsurethewatercomesatleasthalfwayupthesidesofthebowls.Boilfor5hours,checkingthewaterinthesteamereveryhour.Youwillprobablyneedtoaddmorewater.
4.Removethebowlsfromthesteamerandallowthepuddingstocool.Refrigerateforatleastthreemonthsanduptotwoyears.
5.Toserve,reheatthepuddinginasteamerfor2hours.Invertontoawarmdinnerplate.Warmtheremaining¼cupbrandy,pouritoverthepudding,andsetalight.Serveimmediatelywithbrandysauce(page179).
MAKESTHREE2-POUNDPUDDINGBOWLS
STEAMEDSYRUPSPONGEPUDDING
Recipes for steamed puddings are legion in British cookbooks, especially oldcookbooks. They are usually easy to assemble, stovetop friendly, and alwaysdelicious. This pudding can be steamed in two ways. You can steam it in adoubleboilerfittedwithasteamerinsertandawell-fittinglid,oryoucanplacethepuddingbasinonaracklaidinsideapot.Ifyouchoosethelatter,thewaterinsidethepotshouldcomehalfwayupthesidesofthepuddingbasin.Witheithermethod, checkyourwater levels from time to time.Youdon’twant thedoubleboilerorthepotrunningdry.
1stick(½cup)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusbutterforgreasing¾cupgranulatedsugar2eggs1eggyolk
1teaspoonvanillapaste
1½cupsself-risingflour1lemon,zestandjuiceonly,divided
3tablespoonsmilk
2cupsgoldensyrup,divided1.Lightlygreaseatwo-pintpuddingbasinandapieceofparchmentpaperlargeenoughtofitoverthetopofthebasin.
2.Inalargebowlcreamthebutterandsugar,andgraduallyaddtheeggs,eggyolk,andvanillapaste.Thenfoldintheflour,followedbythelemonzest,milk,andfinallythelemonjuice.
3.Place1cupgoldensyrupintothebottomofthepreparedpuddingbasin,andgentlyspoonthespongepuddingmixtureontop.Coverwiththeparchmentpaperandapieceoffoil,andfoldtheedgestightlyoverthebasin.Carefully
placethepuddingintothesteamer,oronarackinapot,andsteamforabout1½to2hours.Checkthewaterlevelinthesteamer/doubleboilerafterthefirsthour,andaddmorewaterifnecessary.
4.Toserve,removethefoilandparchmentpaper,andloosenthepuddingaroundtheedgesofthebasinwithasharpknifeoroffsetspatula.Invertthepuddingontoawarmedplate,andpourtheremaining1cupgoldensyrupoverthetop.ServewithEnglishcustard,icecream,orwhippedcream.
MAKES6SERVINGS
TRADITIONALENGLISHTRIFLE
1(11-ounce)SaraLeeall-butterpoundcake1cupraspberryjam,orhalfa12-ouncejar
1cupfreshraspberries
1⅓cupsgranulatedsugar,divided1¼cupswater4tablespoonssherry(optional)2cupsheavycream
5eggyolks
½teaspoonvanillapaste
2teaspoonscornstarch1¼cupsheavycream,whippedtosoftpeaksfortopping1Cadbury’schocolateflakeor2ouncesmilkchocolateforgarnish1.Cutthepoundcakeinto¾-inchslices,andsandwichthecakeslicestogetherwithalavishlayerofraspberryjam.Laythecakesandwichesintoalargeglassbowlacrossthebottominasinglelayerandslightlyupthesides.Spreadthefreshraspberriesontop.Boil1cupsugarandthewatertogetherinasmallsaucepanfor5minutes,oruntilthesugarmeltsandformsalightsyrup.Addthesherry,ifusing,tothesyrup,andpourthewarmsyrupoverthepoundcakeandberries.2.Bringtheheavycreamtoaboilinalargesaucepan.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheeggyolks,⅓cupsugar,vanillapaste,andcornstarchtogetherinasmallbowl.Pourthehotcreamovertheeggmixture,whiskingallthewhileuntilallthecreamisadded.Returnthecreamandeggmixturetothesaucepanandcontinuetostiroverlowheatuntilitjuststartstothicken.Don’tovercook.Removefromtheheat,andallowthecreamtocoolslightlybeforepouringoverthesponge.
3.Refrigeratethetrifleuntilthecustardhaschilledandset.Toserve,spoonthewhippedcreamoverthetopofthecustard.Decoratewiththechocolateflakeorgratedchocolate.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGSOR4SERVINGSIFYOULIVEINMYHOUSE
(left to right)MincePies,ChocolateRoulade“YuleLog,”TraditionalEnglish
Trifle
CHAPTERSEVEN
KensingtonPalace
AHomeforAllSeasonsKensingtonPalacewasthelastplaceIworkedinEnglandandinsomewayswasthemost important place I have everworked. Itwas the residenceofPrincessDianauntilherdeathanditwastheplacesheturnedintoahomeforherselfandhersons,WilliamandHarry.
I remember cooking atWoodFarm forHerMajestyoneDecemberday in1992,whilesheattendedthedogtrials.ShehadjustreturnedaftertheeventandsatinherLandRover,listeningtoPrimeMinisterJohnMajortelltheHouseofCommons—and the rest of the world—that the Prince and Princess ofWalesweretoseparate.IhavenevershakenthatimageoftheQueen,aloneinhercar,quietlylisteningtotheradio.Itwasasadmomentforusall,butespeciallyforher. Ithadonlybeena fewweeks since thegreat fireatWindsorCastle—andnowthis.IimmediatelythoughtthatIwouldnolongerseePrincessDianaatanyoftheroyalhousesandmightnotseetoomuchoftheboyseither.
But things turnedoutdifferently thanI thought. ItwasPrinceCharleswhomovedout ofKensingtonPalace. PrincessDiana stayed and the staff that hadservedthembothwassplitaccordingly.PrinceCharlestooktwoofthechefsandleftonewiththeprincess,creatingavacancy.Idecidedtothrowmyhatinthering.IgotwordtotheprincessthatIwantedthepositionandmyinterestmusthavebeenwellreceived.Allotherapplicantsweredroppedandthesubsequentinterviewwasamereformality.
Iwent towork for theprincess for thenext fouryears. Itwasn’t that longreally,butmymemoriesofthoseyearsaresofullthattheytendtocrowdouttheyears spent working at Buckingham Palace. Sure, I was sorry to leave mykitchenmatesandtravelingaroundtheworldin“royalstyle”withHerMajesty,butotherwiseIwasreadytogo.Ihadworkedmywayupfromjuniorcooktosenior pastry chef and was now ready for a new challenge. At Kensington Iwould be responsible for running a whole (albeit small) kitchen, a refreshingchangefromthemorerigidpartiesystematthepalace.
MyreturntotheKensingtonwaspickedupbythepress
Even though I knewPrincessDiana from the palace,my relationshipwithher really took offwhen I startedworking atKensington. Shewas entering anew stage in her life and taking better care of herself.Her years as a bulimiasufferer had ended and she was eating properly. She had willpower. I oftenteased her when I made donuts for the boys, saying, “Go on, your RoyalHighness,tryone.”
“Oh,Darren,”shewouldreply,“thatwillgostraight tomyhips.”Andshewouldgrabapieceoffruitinstead.
TheKensingtonapartmentwaselegantandcomfortable,laidoutoverthreefloorswith anursery for theboys.Therewas a small openkitchen thatwas apleasureformetoworkin,especiallyafterthelabyrinthinekitchensofWindsoror Buckingham Palace. The kitchen had a huge window that opened onto acourtyard.Therewasnoroomthereformetogrowanything,soIhadawindowboxbuiltandbegancultivatingfreshherbs.Onwarmdays,allofthewindowsinthecourtyardwouldbeopenandtheprincess’sfavoriteoperaariaswouldwaftintothekitchen.Ithinkitmighthavemademyherbsgrowabitfaster!
Theapartment’slocationwasperfectforPrincessDiana.Situatedrightinthe
heartofLondonnearChelseaandNottingHill,Kensingtonput theprincess inthemidstofbusycity life.Shecouldpopoffdown the roadandstop intoherfavoritecaféforacappuccinoorcallinononeofhergirlfriends.ShoppingwasnearbyandshecouldgetaroundLondoneasily.
EverythingaboutlifeatKensingtonwasmorerelaxedthanlifewiththeroyalfamily.WhenWilliam and Harry were at homewith their mum, the rules ofetiquettewereeased. In fact, therewasquiteabitofhuffingandpuffingfromthenannywhothoughtitscandalousthattheboyswereeatingtheirdinnerswiththeirmumoffoftrayswhilewatchingavideo.Evenwhenlunchwasservedinthediningroom,theprincessandtheboysatefamily-style.Foodwasserved“allin,”whichmeantbothcourseswereplacedonthesideboardbeforetheyenteredthediningroom.
Thisstyleofservice,sometimesusedbytheQueen,gavemoreprivacyandmeantthebutlersdidn’thavetokeepcominginandoutofthediningroom.Theprincesswouldusuallytuckintoapieceofchickenandasalad,whiletheboyswould have chicken, roasted potatoes, and some vegetables. I wouldoccasionally roast potatoes for the princess too, though unlike the boys, shewouldhavethefat-freeversion.ForthatI’dtossthepotatoesineggwhites,salt,andpaprikaandbake.Dessertwasusually something likebanana flanand theprincessmightskipthatinfavorofayogurt.WhatachangefromBuckinghamPalace.Noweveryonejustpassedfoodroundthetableandchattedupastorm.Itwasexactlywhattheprincesswantedforherboys.
Itwasasimplerhouseholdtoo.WhenIcametoKensington,PrincessDianahadahouseholdstaffoftwelve.Thereweretwochefs,twobutlers,twodressers,apoliceprotectionofficer,twohousemaids,akitchenhelper,achauffeur,andananny.Itsoonbecameclearthatwastoomany.Theprincessbeganeliminatingsomepositionsbutkeptherfavoritestaff,thoseshefeltshecouldtrust.
Instructionsfrom“theboss”
By the time she died, the number had whittled down to just five: a chef,butler,nanny,housemaid,andkitchenmaid,andapart-timehousekeeper.Itwasa small group and the typical royal household divisions melted away. If theprincess’scarneededgas—herewerethekeys.Someoneknockingatthedoororringingonthephone?Goandanswer it.Theroleofchefexpandedtobecomethatofacaretakerfortheprincessandtheboyswhentheywerehome.
My cooking reflected this new environment. No more traditional Frenchcuisinewithdemiglaceandcreamreductionsandcertainlynopheasant,grouse,ordeer.
APrincessintheKitchen
SoonaftercomingtoworkforPrincessDiana,IbegandatingWendy,whoisnowmywife.Theprincessquicklyfiguredoutthattherelationshipwasserious,soshewouldurgemetoleaveearlyonFridaytogetajumpstarton
theweekend.Iwouldleavefoodreadytobemicrowaved—nothingfancy—andmake sure therewas plenty forHerRoyalHighness to choose from.Thatwasimportant.Theprincessdidmanythings,butcookingwasnotoneofthem.
Greatnews.IcanheadoutearlytoseeWendy.
Onceshetriedtocookdinnerforagirlfriend.Shedecidedtomakeaneasy pasta dish and shemust have let the pastawater boil over. The gaspilot lightblewoutandbySundaymorning, theprincesscouldsmellgas.She called security and they immediately sent out a call to the localfirehouse.When IcamebackonMonday, theprincessgleefully informedmethatshehadtwelvehunkymeninherhousewhileIwasgone.WhenIheardthewholestory,Ijustlaughed.Theprincessdidtoo.
Darren,canyougivethistoWendy,please?”theprincesssaidasshepresentedmewithanenvelopeoneChristmasEve.
Infact,gamereferredexclusivelytotheboys’PlayStation!IfIwascookingonly for theprincess,breakfastwas sure tobe freshly squeezed juices,yogurt,maybe some scrambledeggs,or thatquintessentialBritish invention,beansontoast.Thathadzerofat,butloadsofcarbstogiveHerRoyalHighnessenergyatthegym.
For lunchordinner,PrincessDiana lovedpasta, freshvegetables, chicken,and fish. If shewas home alone for lunch, shewould have a place set at thekitchencounter.Shewouldwanderinaroundone,andIwouldserveherlunchand salad on her favorite Herrand Rothschild bird china. Dessert was alwaysfruit or yogurt. Lycheeswere her all-time favorite. She couldwork through apound of themwithout even thinking.When theywere in season, I’d leave abowlofthemoutinthesittingroomforher.
Theboyswereeasytofeedaswell.Theyhadtypicalchildhoodfavorites,allthe things my own children now enjoy—like stuffed potato skins, roastedchicken,pizza,andpasta.Theywereevenprettygoodabouteatingtheirveggies.Nannymade sure of that. The entire family loved ice cream, and often eitherWilliamorHarrywouldwanderintothekitchenlookingforhisfavoriteHaagen-Dazschocolatechocolatechip.Theywerealwayspoliteenoughtoask,andthenhelpedthemselvestoaspoonandtheicecream.Williamwouldsitinthekitchenwindowsill, his spoon digging right into the container, chatting away andkeepingoneeyeonthestairsforNanny.
Youdidn’tgetthatatBuckinghamPalace.IftheboyswerevisitingGrannyandwantedicecream,theQueenwouldcallherpage,whointurnwouldcalltheheadchef.Theheadchefwouldcallthepastrykitchenandthepastrychefwouldinturncallthesilverpantryforsomesilverdishestopresentiton.Theicecream
wouldbeformedintodecorativequenelleshapesandplacedinthesilverdessertdish.Then itwasoff to the linen room toget thepropernapkin.Eventually afootmanwould arrive to take the ice creamup to the royal dining room somefifteenminuteslater.
Theboys’lunch:(lefttoright)CornontheCob,BananaFlan,RoastPork,PotatoSkins
Thecousins,Fergie’sdaughters,oftencameoverforavisitwhentheywerein town,much toWilliam andHarry’s delight. Theywould all run about thehouse shrieking at the top of their lungs and enjoying themselves immensely.TheDuchessofYorkwouldstayforteaandvisit.Theprincessadoredthegirlsandwouldmake sure theyeachhadagift and that aballoonwas tied to eachchild’s chair. Tea would include several kinds of sandwiches, one being jampennies—theQueen’sfavorite.Chocolatechipcookieswereamustsinceallthechildren loved them, and the princess realized that children need sweets too,fromtimetotime.
I tried tokeep thecookinghealthyforeveryone,butoccasionallymetwithresistancefromthehousehold’syoungermembers.OneafternoonIenteredthekitchentoseeahandwrittennoteonthecounterthatread:“Darren,pleasegivetheboyspizzatonight.Thankyou.”Itwassignedbythenanny,butsomethingaboutthecrookedeight-year-oldhandwritinggaveitawayastheworkofPrinceHarry.Ipreparedroastedchickenandvegetablesandsentitallupwithaprivatechuckle.
Harryboundedintothekitchenthenextdaytellingmehewasgoingtogethismothertoallowpizzafordinnerthatnight.Idangledthenoteinfrontofhimandasked,“DoyouthinkIshouldletthenannyknowaboutthechange,Harry?”
Hiseyesgrewbigassaucersandhedashedout.Infact,Ithinktheprincessdidallow them tohavepizza thatnight, and Iprepared itwithpleasure.TheboysalsolovedAmericanbarbequeandeveryonceinawhiletheycouldallbefoundtucked into abooth eating ribs andburgers at a local spot aptlynamedStickyFingersalongKensingtonHighStreet.
JuniorApprentices
WilliamandHarrycamebythekitchenfairlyoftenlookingforatreatortofindoutwhatwasfordinnerorevenjusttograbapieceoffruit.Buteveryonce inawhile theywould try theirhandatcooking.“CanwehelpmakeMummy’sdinner,please?”theywouldask.Theprincess’sfavoritedishwasstuffed eggplant and the boys would get very excited about putting thattogether.Nomatterthatitlookedlikesmashedeggplantwhenitwasdone,they served it proudly and the princesswas thrilled. Shewould eat everybite.I’msureittasteddelicious—itwasmadewithsuchlove.
ThecardsentfromPrincessDianawhenmydaughterKellywasborn.ItcamewiththebiggestbouquetofflowersIhaveeverseen.
WhenIthinkback,itseemstomethattheprincessknewhertimewithher
childrenwasascarcetreasure.Itwoulddisappearastheygrewupandassumedmoreoftheirroyalresponsibilities.Shetriedtoletbothofthemhaveasnormaland relaxed a childhood as possible, and I think William and Harry reallybenefitedfromthat.Tohavecompleteunconditionallovefromtheirmotherwasasourceofstrengthfor them.Theywerefullofenergy, inquisitive,courteous,and temperamentally kind. You always knew when they were around: thecorridorswouldbethunderingwithnoiseoftheboysracingalongthehallwayorkickingaballordoingallthethingsthatboysdo.Itbroughtthehousetolife.Itbroughttheprincesstolifetoo.
ENTERTAININGATHOME
PrincessDiana always took an active interest in theworld aroundher.By thetimeofherdeath,shewaspatronof119differentcharities,ahugenumber.ButthatwasPrincessDiana.When she sawaworthwhile cause, she threwherselfintoit.Shedidn’thavehandlersoradvisersoranyoftheBP“graysuits,”asshecalled them, testing thewatersandadvisingheronprotocol.Theprincesswasherself, spontaneous and sometimes impetuous. That and her kindness andwarmthwerehergreateststrengths.
Sheopenedherhouseoftentoentertainonbehalfofthecharitiessheworkedsohardfor.Nodinnerparties,though.Lunchonly.Thatwasbydesign.Shewassure that the press would have a field day and there would be no end to thestoriesofwhowasinherhouseatnight.Butlunch,well,whocouldgossipaboutthat?
Thoughthediningroomcouldholduptothirtycomfortably,luncheonswereusuallylimitedtotwelve.PrincessDianapreferredsmallergroups.Shesaidthatitgaveherachancetotalktoeveryonearoundthetable.Herentertainingstylewas formal, but shemade everyone relax as soon as theywalked through thedoor.“Lookthemin theeyeandgiveafirmhandshake,”washermantra.Thediningroomwasveryfemininewithlotsofprettychinaandflowers.Shehaditcompletelyrepaintedaftertheprincemovedoutandnowthewallswerearustic,but tasteful, burnt orange. No gilt, no under butlers, no stewards and winewaiters,nopompatall.
BeetRed
Theprincesslikedalldifferentkindsofjuice,andsoIlearnedtoprepareallsorts,includingveggiejuices.Onceshecameintothekitchenandsaidshehadheardbeetrootjuicewasverygoodforyourskinandshewouldlikeaglass. I glanced quickly in my juicing book, which mentioned that youshould dilute beet juicewith carrot or apple.But since she justwanted ashot,Ijuicedsomebeetsandshedrankitdown.Shehadappointmentssetup all afternoon and wanted to look her best. By midmorning, her skinbegantoformredsplotchesandshewashavingpalpitations.
Shecameracing into thekitchen.“Aargh,Darren!”shecried.“I thinkyou’vepoisonedme!”
Well,Iwasprettysurethatshewouldlivetoseeanotherday,butIwasabitalarmed.GoodLord, I thought,whatdid that juicedo? It turnedoutthatthebookwasright.Beetjuiceisquitestrongandneedstobetemperedor diluted with other juices. After a quick stint on a tanning bed, theprincess’sblotchesbegan to fadeandshewasable tomakeherafternoonappointments.Irefrainedfromjuicinganythingredforawhile,thoughshedidlaughwhenIslylyputbeetrootsouffléonthemenuthenextday.
WhensheentertainedIwouldtrytointroducenewdishestothemenu.Someof her favorites were pressed vegetable terrines with a pureed herb dressing,carrotandeggrouladewithamaplegingerdressing,bakedcrabmeatandcorncustards, chicken breast stuffed with red pepper and basil mousse, and icedpralineandamarettosouffléswithpoachedpears.
HollywoodatHome
PrincessDiana once hosted a lunch for the actor Clint Eastwood. I can’tremembertheexactreasonforthelunch,butIdorememberthatitwasonlyonewhere Iwas called into thedining room. It seemsMr.Eastwoodhadenjoyedhislunchsomuchheaskedtospeaktothechefdirectly.Isteppedthrough the green baize door and was introduced by the princess. Mr.Eastwood stood up to shakemy hand and Iwas surprised at how tall hewas!I’msixfeettwoinchesandamusuallythetallestoneintheroom.Atsixfeetfourinches,hehadmebestedbyafewinches.Idon’trecallwhathesaid. I just stood there in utter surprisewith a sheepish grin onmy face.WhatcanIsayexceptthatit“mademyday.”
Someofheroldfavoriteswereonthemenutoo.Tomatomoussewithlobsterwas a dish she loved from her Buckingham Palace days. The original recipecalledforthreedifferentkindsoffatandshehadmereworktherecipeintoafat-freeversion. I rememberononeoccasionwhena famousAmerican talk showhost came for lunch and I served the tomato mousse. The princess and Ichuckled later when she told me how the guest had gushed: “Diana this iswonderful! How do you manage to stay so slim?” Of course, the guest waseatingtheoriginalrecipewhilethebosshadthefat-freeversion.
Ofcourse,iftheboyshadfriendsover,thenthemenuwasmorekid-friendly:pork loinwithapple sauce,poachedchicken ina supremesaucewith riceandnursery favorites, baked jam roll and custard or a pear andbanana crumble, aPrinceCharlesfavorite.
Over the years, the princess opened her home to all sorts of people, somefamous, butmanywere just regular people doing goodwork. I remember sheonce invited a little boyover for lunch.Hehad cancer andhadwritten to hersaying hewould verymuch like to have lunchwith a princess.He arrived at
Kensington Palace in a black taxicab with his sister andmother in tow. Youcouldtellhismomwasnervous.Enoughpressurehavinglunchwithareal-lifeprincess,buttohavetodoitwithyourkids!
TheprincessaskedmetoservesomethingWilliamandHarrylikedtoeat,soIroastedtwochickensandsomevegetables.Inthediningroomtheprincesshadplacedagift-wrappedtoytruckonthelittleboy’sseat,adollonhissister’s,andahand-tiedbouquetofflowersonthetableforhismother.Theyallsatdowntoeatandtheprincessdidherbesttoputeveryoneatease.
Halfway through themeal the little boy picked up his drumstick with hishands andbegangnawing at thebone.Themotherhad a terrified lookonherface andPrincessDiana, reading the situation quickly, put down her fork andknife andpickedupher chickenwithherhands too.Theboy’smother smiledandbreathedasighofrelief.ThatwasclassicPrincessDiana—shenevermissedathing.
ACOMPLICATEDLIFEIalwayslookbackonmyyearsatKensingtonwithpleasure.Iwasreallyhappythere.Butinallhonesty,Idon’tthinkthatwasalwaystruefortheprincess.Shefound it extremely hard to have a normal life. The media focus on her wasintense. The princess, because of her marriage and her charity work, was aperson of interest to every major news and media outlet in the world. Andwherever she went, the press followed. The fact that she lived her life in agoldfishbowlmadehermoreadamantthatonlythosepeoplewhocouldguardher privacy were allowed to stay in her house. If she felt you wereuntrustworthy, you ended up leavingKensington. She initially had a personalprotectionofficerassigned toher from thepalace,butendedupaskinghim toleave.ShefelthereverymovewasreportedbacktoBuckinghamPalace,andshejustcouldn’tstandthat.
ChristmascardfromPrincessDiana
Shemissedherchildrenallthetime.Thecustodyarrangementwasthatsheand PrinceCharleswould each have the boys on alternate freeweekends andalternate holidays. By the time that Prince Charles and Princess Diana hadseparated,bothWilliamandHarrywereinboardingschoolandmostweekendstheystayedatschool.Thatwashardonher.Shewasnotyetreadyforthemtobeaway somuch.Andwhile she and the Prince split custody of the children onholidays,PrincessDiananevercelebratedChristmaswithherchildren.Shefeltthat atChristmas, the rightfulplace for theboyswasatSandringhamwith therestoftheroyalfamily.Itwasatraditionshewaswillingtosupport,butitleftherintearsandwithabigholeinherChristmasholiday.Shewasalonethen;allthestaffwereawayvisitingtheirownfamilies.IwouldloaduptherefrigeratorwithgoodiesforherandheadoutofthedooronChristmasEve.
Datingwas difficult for her and she could be fickle in her affections. Shedidn’thaveaclearsenseaboutwhatshewantedherlovelifetobe.Itwasaworkinprogress, impededbytherelentlessattentionhereverymovegenerated.Shewasreallypleasedatmyowngoodfortuneinmeetingmywife.Shethoughtitmustbeblissfullyeasytoformrelationshipswhenyourlifewasn’tsopublic.Ithinkshewasabsolutelyright.
CufflinksgiventomebyPrincessDiana
Thereisnodoubtshehadherfaults.Theprincesswasneitheramartyrnorasaint. She could get furious at someone for a perceived slight and then neverspeak to that person again.She stopped speaking tome for a fewdays after Idrovetoofastintoworkoneday,nearlycollidingwithhercarassheheadedouttothegym.Myapologieswereprofuse,butnotenoughtostopherfromtellingtherestof thestaff thatIhadnearlykilledher.Fortunatelyforme,afterafewdaysallwasforgiven.
PrincessDianawasawomanbuildinganewlifeandsometimesitsoutlineswerenotcleartoher.Shecouldfeellost.Iwasherchefandsheoftensatinthekitchen eating her lunch and chatting. Sometimes the conversation was justaboutwhathappenedinlastnight’ssoapoperasandothertimesshewouldburstinandsay,“Darren,youwon’tbelievewhattheQueen[oroftenFergie]hasjusttoldme!”Ifshetrustedyou,thenyouwereprivytoeverythingandanythingonhermind.Conversationswouldmeanderovertopics,coveringalittlebitofthisandthat.ListeningtoherIfelt thather innatecompassionandkindnesswouldhelphermature into awomanofgreatpurpose.She justneeded time togrowintoit,aswealldo.
Ididn’tknowthattimewastheonethingshedidn’thave.IwokeupearlyonSunday,August31,1997.Itwasgoingtobeafunday.
The“boss”wasflyingbackfromhervacation,andWilliamandHarrywouldbeatthehouseforafewdaysbeforetheywentbacktoschool.TheboyshadbeenatBalmoralandwereflyingintotheVIPterminalataboutthesametimeastheprincess.They’d all be atKensington for dinner and I had alreadybought thefood.
I sat down to breakfast and flipped the television on. I heard the BBCnewscastermentionPrincessDiana,butittookmeseveralsecondstomakeanysenseofwhathewassaying.OnscreenflashedapictureoftheprincesswiththedatesJuly1,1961–August31,1997underneath.Whatwashetalkingabout?Hecouldn’t be right. Her Royal Highness dead? No, there must be a mistake. IcalledKensingtonPalacebutonlygotaconstantbusysignal.
ThisnotecardaccompaniedaHermestieonChristmasEve.ItwastobethelastgiftIreceivedfromtheprincessbeforeshedied.
Idecidedtogointowork,takingallthefoodIhadboughtfordinnerwithme.As I drove through the gate into the royal compound, the usually cheerypoliceofficeracknowledgedme,thenquicklylookedaway.Iparkedmycarandheadedto theapartment,passingtheprincess’sofficeasIdid.TheofficedoorwasopenandIsteppedinside.Severalstaffmateswerethere,someintears.Noonesaidanything.Wealljuststoodthere,noneofusreallybelievingwhathadhappened.Thefaxmachinesuddenlybrokethesilence.
“OhmyGod!”Iheardoneofthesecretariessay.“Itistheprincess’slastwillandtestament.”ThefaxwasfromAntonyJulius,theprincess’sattorney.ItwasthenthatIrealizedshewasn’tcominghome.
During the next week I went in to work each day and cooked meals foranyonewhowasaround.Nooneate anything.Notevenme. Instead I took toambling around Kensington Palace gardens where only weeks before the
princesshadgonewalkingorroller-bladinginabaseballcapanddarkglassessoasnottoberecognized.
The park was now jammed full of people, all in mourning. Bouquets offlowers, stacked almost three feet high, were piled against the black and giltpalace railings, and the perfume brought back memories of the princess’sbirthdayeachyearwhenitseemedlikeeveryfiveminutesanotherbouquetwasdeliveredtothehousefromacharity,afriend,anadmirer,orjustfromsomeonewhoselifeshehadtouched,someoneshedidn’tevenknow.Inoticedthatmanyofthebouquetswerefreesias,herfavoriteflower.CandleslituptheparkandIrememberedhowmuch she loved candlelight.The apartmentoften carried thescentofKennethTurneroriginalfragrancecandles.ShehadgivenmeoneasaChristmasgift.Istillhaveitandlightitonspecialoccasions.
SignedPhotoofPrincessDianaingiltframewithPrinceofWalesfeathers
Thedaysprecedingthefuneralwentbyinslowmotion.Iwasoutofsorts.Ididn’twant to cookand insteadate atMcDonald’s sixnights in a row. Itwasfamiliar and anonymous and oddly comforting. Along with the rest of thehousehold staff, Iwas allowed to visit the princess in the chapel, paymy lastrespects,andsignthecondolencebook.
On thedayof the funeralwewereall atKensingtonPalacebynine in themorning.We formed a line at the front door, as we often did when PrincessDianawentoffonalongjourney,thistimetosaygood-byeforthelasttime.Wewere whisked toWestminster Abbey, through streets lined with more than amillionpeople.Thefuneralwasdifficultforme.IsatdirectlyacrossfromEltonJohnashesang“CandleintheWind”intributetotheprincess.Ifeltalumpinmythroatthatbecametearsasherbrother,EarlSpencer,gavetheeulogy.
Itwasn’tuntilIwasdrivinghomethateveningthatIsuddenlythought,NowwhatamIgoing todowithmyself? I stoppedatMcDonald’s foraburgerandtimetothink.IhadbeentoldthatI’dstayonthepayrollforsixmonthsandtheprincess’ssistershadrequestedthatIkeepmygraceandfavoraccommodationforuptoayearandnotbeturnedoutontothestreets.Good.Thatwouldgivemetimetosortoutmynextmove.
MohammedAlFayed,Dodi’sfather,hadpromisedjobstoanymembersoftheprincess’s staff, if theywantedone.But Ihadn’t really thoughtabout that.PrinceCharles also offeredme a position as a personal chef, but I declined. IthinkIwouldhaveforeverfeltPrincessDianalookingdownonmesaying,“Youarenotgoing to cook for thatwoman, areyou?” IwasalsoofferedapositionwithMichaelHesseltine,theformerdeputyprimeminister,athisstatelyhomeinOxfordshire, but he and Iwere politically poles apart. I decided thatwouldn’twork.
Knowinghowmuchtheprincessadoredherfather,Isentheranotewhenhepassedaway.Ididn’texpectareply,buttheprincesslovedtowritenotes.
TheprincesshadalwaystalkedaboutmovingtoAmerica.AftereveryvisittotheStatesshewouldcomeintothekitchenandsay,“Darren,we’veabsolutelygottomovethere!”
Iwouldjust laughandreply,“Justgivemetimetopackafewclothesandthe juicer,yourRoyalHighness.” I calledher “yourRoyalHighness” rightupuntilherdeath,despitetheremovalofthetitleafterthedivorce.Idon’tknow.Itdidn’tseemrighttocallherbyanylessertitle.
Duringthenextweeksmythoughtskeptturningbacktothoseconversations.America.Live inAmerica.Well, someonemustneeda chef there. I could findsomeplacewarm.Definitelysomeplacewarmandawayfromallofthis.Maybethatjustmightwork...
AVOCADOANDHEARTSOFPALMSALAD
1headBibborbutterheadlettuce
1(16-ounce)jarheartsofpalmrings,drained1ripeavocado,diced2naveloranges,peeledandsegmented1smallredbellpepper,finelydiced½smallredonion,finelydiced¼cupraspberryvinegar2teaspoonssugar1teaspoonDijonmustard2teaspoonslemonjuice
1tablespoonwalnutoil¼cupwaterSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1tablespoonchoppedfreshtarragon
1.Tearthelettuceleavesintobite-sizepieces,removingthecenterriboftheouterleaves.Placethelettuceinalargebowl.Addtheheartsofpalm,avocado,orangesegments,bellpepper,andredonion.
2.Blendtheraspberryvinegar,sugar,mustard,lemonjuice,walnutoil,andwatertogether.Seasontotastewiththesaltandpepper.Foldinthetarragon.Drizzle2tablespoonsofthedressingoverthesalad,anddividethesaladamongfourplates.Drizzleeachplatewithmoredressing.Serveimmediately.
MAKES4SERVINGS
PARSNIPANDAPPLESOUPWITHPARMESAN-CHIVEFOAM
This recipe, which I often prepared for the princess, has the right balancebetweensilky,earthyparsnipflavorandthetasteoftart/sweetapplethatcomesthrough.Make time to prepare the garnish; it turns a good soup into a greatone.
Soup
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
1poundparsnips,peeledandchopped1GrannySmithapple,peeledandchopped1mediumonion,peeledandchopped1teaspoongroundcoriander3cupswater
1chickenbouilloncube
½cupheavycreamSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperGarnish¼cupheavycream
1tablespoonfreshlygratedParmesan3tablespoonsroughlychoppedfreshchives,divided1GrannySmithapple,peeled1.Forthesoup,meltthebutterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Whenthebutterhasstoppedfoaming,addtheparsnips,apple,andonion.Sautéuntiltheonionistranslucentandsoft,about5minutes.Addthecoriander,water,andbouilloncube.Bringthesoupuptoagentlesimmer,turndowntheheat,andsimmeruntiltheparsnipsaretenderenoughtobeeasilypiercedwithafork.Removethesoupfromtheheatandwithahand-heldblender,pureethesoup.If
youwanttouseastandardblendertopureethesoup,youwillneedtoletthesoupcooldownbeforeblending.Afterblendingthesoup,strainthecontentsthroughafine-meshstrainertoremoveanylumps.Thesoupcanbemadeaheaduptothispointandrefrigeratedforseveraldays.Warmgentlybeforecontinuing.2.Stirinthecream,andseasontotastewiththesaltandpepper.Letthesoupgethot,butdonotboil.Adjusttheconsistency,thinningwithalittlewaterifneeded.
3.Forthegarnish,whiptheheavycreamuntilstiffpeaksform.FoldtheParmesanand1tablespoonofthechivesintothewhippedcream.Gratesomeoftheappleintothebottomoffourwarmsoupbowls,andladlethesoupontop.SpoontheParmesancreamontopofthesoup,andgarnishwiththeremaining2tablespoonschives.
MAKES4SERVINGS
Parsnip and Apple Soup, Pear andWalnut SaladwithParmesanBalsamicDressing
STUFFEDBELLPEPPERS
4mediumredbellpeppers
¼cupoliveoil½cuproughlychoppedonion
1cupfinelyslicedbuttonmushrooms1zucchini,diced½teaspoondriedoreganoSaltandfreshlygroundpepper2tomatoes,roughlychopped1cuprice,cookeduntilaldenteandcooled½cupwater½chickenorvegetablebouilloncube4slicessmokedbacon,broiledcrispyandchopped1tablespoonfreshbasil,shredded4ouncesmozzarellacheese,diced
2tablespoonsgratedParmesancheese
1.Preheattheovento350degrees.Cutthetopsoffthepeppers,andcleanouttheseedsandmembranes.Ifthepepperswon’tstandup,cutalittlepieceoffthebottomtolevelthem.Placethepeppersonabakingsheet,anddrizzlewiththeoil.Bakefor25minutes,oruntiltheystarttosoften.Removefromtheovenandallowtocool.
2.Pourtheoilfromthepeppersintoafryingpan,andaddtheonions,mushrooms,zucchini,andoregano.Seasonthevegetableswiththesaltandpeppertotaste,andsautéoverhighheatuntiltheystarttosoften.Addthetomatoes,rice,water,andbouilloncube,andsimmerforabout5minutes.Adjusttheseasoning.
3.Foldinthebacon,basil,andmozzarella,anddivideamongthepeppers.SprinkletheParmesanontopofthepeppers,andbakeinthemiddleoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilthecheesehasmeltedandthefillingishot.
MAKES4SERVINGS.
Stuffed Bell Peppers, Stuffed Aubergine (StuffedEgglplant)
PEARANDWALNUTSALADWITHPARMESANBALSAMICDRESSING
Dressing½cupoliveoil¼cupfreshParmesancheese3tablespoonsmincedfreshbasil1teaspoonlemonjuice
2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar1clovegarlic,crushedSaltandfreshlygroundpepperSalad1headbutterlettuce1teaspoonlemonjuice
1teaspoonoliveoil
1ripepear,peeledandsliced4ouncesgoatcheese,crumbled3tablespoonsroughlychoppedwalnuts,toasted1greenonion,finelychopped1.Forthedressing,mixtogethertheoil,Parmesan,basil,lemonjuice,vinegar,garlic,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Shakeorwhisktoblend.Refrigerateforuptothreedays.2.Forthesalad,washandtearthelettuceintobite-sizepieces,discardingtheouterleaves.Addthelemonjuiceandoliveoil,andtoss.Dividethelettuceamongsixsaladplates,andarrangethepearslices,goatcheese,walnuts,andgreenonionontop.Drizzlethedressingoverthesaladandaroundtheedgesoftheplate.Serveimmediately.
MAKES6SERVINGS
STUFFEDAUBERGINE(StuffedEggplant)
This dish brings back fond memories of my days in the Princess of Wales’skitchen. StuffedAubergine, knownas eggplant toAmerican cooks,was one oftheprincess’sfavoritedishes.Moreoftenthannot,she’drequestthatIleaveanextraservingintherefrigeratorforhertoreheatontheweekend.Thatwasallright; this is one of those dishes that seems to improve with age and can beprepared ahead of time. The flavors and textures create a healthy and great-tastinglunchwhenservedalonewithasalad,orasavegetablesidedishservedalongsideagrilledsteak.
2smalleggplants,each6-incheslong4tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1largezucchini1largeorangebellpepper
2ribscelery
½cuproughlychoppedredonionSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1½cupsslicedbuttonmushrooms1largetomato,finelychopped2slicesbacon,cookeduntilcrisp1cupgratedmozzarellacheese1tablespoonchoppedfreshbasil
2tablespoonsgratedParmesancheese1.Preheattheovento350degrees.2.Cuteacheggplantinhalfintotwoequalcylinders.Cutacircleinthewhitefleshoftheeggplantsabout¼inchfromtheskinallthewayround,andabout
1inchdeep.Scoretheinsideofthecircle(i.e.,maketinycross-cutsintothefleshofthecircleabout½inchdeep).Thismakesiteasiertoscoopoutthefleshoncetheeggplantiscooked.
3.Brushtheeggplantswith2tablespoonsoliveoil,especiallythecuttopandbottom,andbakeonatrayintheovenfor15to20minutes.Turneacheggplantovermidwaythroughcookingsothebottomsdon’tgettoobrown.Whenthefleshfeelssoft,removetheeggplantsfromtheoven,andallowthemtocool.
4.Coarselychopthezucchini,bellpepper,andceleryinto¾-inchcubes.Inaskillet,put2tablespoonsoliveoilonmediumheat.Addthezucchini,bellpepper,celery,redonion,andmushrooms.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcookuntilthevegetablesstarttosoften.Stirinthetomato,taste,adjustseasoning,andallowthemixturetocool.
5.Finelychopthebacon,dicethemozzarellaintosmallcubes,andaddthesetothecooledvegetablesalongwiththechoppedbasil.
6.Gentlyremovethefleshfromtheinsidesoftheeggplant,takingcaretoleaveabout¼inchonthebottomtocreateashell.Thenchoptheflesh,andaddittothevegetables.Spoonthemixintotheeggplantshells,dividingitamongthefour.SprinklethetopswiththeParmesancheese.
7.Thestuffedeggplantsarenowready,andtheycanbeplacedintheovenfor15minutes,oruntilthefillingishot.Ortheycanberefrigerated,readyforaprincesstoreheatstraightfromtherefrigeratortooven.Servewithasaladorasavegetable.
MAKES4SERVINGS
POACHEDEGGSSUZETTE
2largerussetpotatoes,about12ounceseach2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterplus3tablespoonsbutter,melted3eggyolks,dividedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1teaspoonlemonjuice
1teaspoonoliveoil
2cupsspinachleaves,firmlypacked1pinchgratednutmeg1teaspoonwhitewinevinegar1teaspoonsalt2largeeggs
1teaspoonchoppedfreshtarragon
1.Preheattheovento400degrees,andplacearackinthemiddle.Bakethepotatoesfor1hourorlonger,untilslightlysofttothetouch.Removethepotatoesandsliceone-fourthoffthetopofthepotatoeslengthways.Scoopoutthefleshfromthepotatointoalargebowl.Putthepotatoshellsontoabakingsheet.
2.Mashthepotatoesuntilsmooth,adding2tablespoonsbutter,1eggyolk,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Usingapipingbagfittedwithastartip,pipethepotatoesaroundthetopofthepotatoshells,andreturntotheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Preparethefillingwhilethepotatoesarebrowning.
3.Forthefilling,placetheremaining2eggyolksintoametalbowl,orthetoppartofadoubleboiler,overapanofboilingwater.Whisktheyolks,andgraduallyaddthelemonjuiceandtheremaining3tablespoonsmeltedbutter.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste,setaside,andkeepwarm.
4.Heattheoliveoilinafryingpan,andaddthespinach.Sautéthespinachuntilitwilts,andaddthenutmegandthesaltandpeppertotaste.Dividethespinachbetweenthetwopotatoshells,andkeepthemwarm.
5.Bringa2-quartpanofwatertoaboil,addthevinegar,andthe1teaspoonsalt.
Carefullypoachtheeggsforabout3minutes.Removethemwithaslottedspoon,andplaceontopofthespinachinthepotatoshells.
6.Spoonthesauceovereacheggandsprinklewiththechoppedtarragon.Serveimmediately.
MAKES2SERVINGS
PEACHPANNACOTTA
1packetunflavoredgelatin
2¼cupsheavycream,divided⅓cupplus1tablespoonsugar¼teaspoonvanillapaste½cupeaudeviedepeches(peachbrandy)
3ripepeaches1tablespoonvanillasugar(seepage76)1teaspoonroughlychoppedfreshmint
6individualramekins
1.Softenthegelatinin¼cupheavycreaminabowl.Bringtheremaining2cupsheavycreamandthesugartoasimmerinalargesaucepansetoverhighheat.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthegelatinmixtothehotcream,andwhisktogetheruntilthegelatinandsugararefullydissolved.Addthevanillapasteandpeachbrandy.Strainthemixtureintosixindividualramekins.Refrigerateovernight,oruntilset.
2.Stoneandpeelthepeaches,anddiceinto¼-inchpieces.Placethepeachesinabowl,addthevanillasugarandmint,andmixgently.
3.Unmoldeachpannacottaontoadessertplate,andgarnishwiththefreshpeaches.
MAKES6SERVINGS
ICEDPRALINEANDAMARETTOSOUFFLÉWITHPOACHEDPEAR
Praline
1teaspoonvegetableoil
1½cupsgranulatedsugar1cupslicedrawalmonds,pecans,hazelnuts,oracombinationofallthreePear1cupgranulatedsugar2cupswater1cinnamonstick
1largeripepear
Soufflé¾cupgranulatedsugar6tablespoonswater
6eggwhites
¼cupamarettoliqueur1½cupsheavycream,whippeduntilstiffpeaksform1.Forthepraline,lightlygreaseabakingsheetwiththevegetableoil.Inaheavy-bottomedsaucepan,meltthesugar,stirringuntilitreachesadeepcaramelcolor.Removethecaramelizedsugarfromtheheat,andaddthenuts.Stirtocombine,andpourthesugarednutsontothegreasedbakingsheet,spreadingthemoutintoathinlayer.Allowtocool.2.Forthepoachedpear,bringthesugar,water,andcinnamonsticktoaboilfor3minutes.Peelandcutthepearinto6equalsegments.Immersethesegmentsinthewarmsyrup,andremovefromtheheat.Allowtocool.
3.Linesix4-ounceramekinswithparchmentpaperontheoutsideoftheramekinandatleast1inchabovethelip.Stapleorusearubberbandtohold
theparchmentinplace.4.Forthesoufflé,bringthesugarandwatertoarollingboiluntilthemeltedsugarsyrupreachesthe“softballstage”(theconsistencyofcornsyrupisagoodproxy).Whilethesyrupisboiling,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Carefullypourthehotsyrupontotheeggwhitesslowlyandcontinuewhisking.Foldtheamarettointothewhippedcream,andstiruntilcombined.Placehalfthecooledpralineintoaziplockbag,andpounditwitharollingpintomaketinypieces.Foldabout1cupofthecrushedpralineintothesoufflé.Reservetherestforgarnish.Spoonthesoufflémixintotheramekinsandfreezeforatleast2hours.
5.Oncethesouffléshavefullyfrozen,carefullyremovetheparchmentpaperbeforeservingandplaceeachsouffléonadish.Placeawedgeofpoachedpearnexttothesouffléandsprinkletheplatewithsomeofthecrushedpraline.Breaktheremainingpralineintolargeshardstodecoratethesoufflé.
MAKES6SERVINGS
IcedPralineandAmarettoSoufflé
Index
Pagenumbersinitalicindicatepageswithillustrations
AAlice,Princess,154Andrassy,Count,50Andrew,Prince,3,13,41,70, 114,129Anne,Princess,49Appetizers ChilledTomatoandDillMousse (Fat-FreeVersion),9,193,213 ChilledTomatoandDillMousse withLobster,9,20,193 CroquesMonsieur,12,17,23 CucumberandMintMousse,52 EggsDrumkilbo,94,95 GleneaglesPâté,18–19,19 HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese andMapleSalmon,22–23,23 SausageRolls,23,24 StiltonandPecanSablewith PoachedPear,12,21,23 StiltonFritterswithCreamy WalnutDressing,158Armstrong-Jones,Sarah,113,131Ascotboxes,48Ascothorseraces,2,47–49
BBallathieHouseHotel,viiBalmoralCastle,6,108,114
beautyof,109–110 Dee,River,109,112–113 foodservedat,112,113 GhilliesBall,113,116 onholidayat,113–115 kitchenandchefsat,110,115 kitchengardenat,110–111 mushroomsat,6–7 Penndoor,110,110 royalcalendar,xii,2,109 shootingparties,111–112 staffat,110 wildlifeat,111Barnes,Nanny,115Beef BeefCarbonnade,93 BeefCurry-EnglishStyle,172 BeefWellington,54,55 CottagePie,115,122,123–124 GaelicSteaks,25 SteakDiane,125 TenderloinSteaks,withBoursin, Rosemary,BellPepperSauce, 126,127 TenderloinSteaks,withStilton andWalnutCrust,Mushroom CreamSauce,100Berry,John,viiBeverages IcedCoffee,35,48–49 LemonRefresher,92,102 MulberryGin,44,81 MulledWine,179Bluebottle,86BoxingDay,154–155Breads EnglishPancakes,71
BreadandButterPudding,136,137 BreadSauce,151,162 TraditionalIrishSodaBread,177Britannia,HMY,82,84 CowesWeek,49,84 foodservedon,86,87–89,92 kitchenandchefson,89–92, 90,92 menufor,89 royalcalendar,xii,2 summertimesailing,84–85 tripsaboard,83–84,86–89,91 yachtracing,49,84BuckinghamPalace,4 costsassociatedwith,9 diplomaticreceptions,11–12 foodservedat,6–9,189–190 gardenteaparties,14–16 kitchenandchefsat,5–6 lifeat,xi–xiii,8–9 menusfor,8 royalcalendar,1,2,5 statevisitsandbanquets,8–11, 10,11 teatime,12–14 transportingfood,7
CCakes BattenburgCake,14,28,30 ChocolateBiscuitCake,13–14, 28,31 chocolatecakes,13–14 ChocolateRoulade“YuleLog”, 176–177,182 ChristmasCake,147,147,152, 178–179
EarlGreyTeaCake,32 JamandCreamSponge,28,106 JamandCreamSwissRoll,33 RoyalBirthdayCake,74–75,75 Yulelogs,146,152,154, 176–177,182Carluccio,Antonio,6,124Charles,Prince atBalmoralCastle,114–115, 116–117 favoritefoodsof,6,193 giftsfor,149 menufor,3 onRiverDee,113 separationfromDiana,185 weddingof,ix–xCheese CheeseSoufflé,96,97 CroquesMonsieur,12,17,23 FallGreenswithRoastedBeets, CaramelizedWalnuts,Goat Cheese,WalnutDressing,202 HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese andMapleSalmon,22–23,23 SageDerbyDauphinoise Potatoes,27 StiltonandPecanSablewith PoachedPear,12,21,23 StiltonFritterswithCreamy WalnutDressing,158 SupremeofPheasantStuffedwith GoatCheese,166 TenderloinSteaks,withStilton andWalnutCrust,Mushroom CreamSauce,100Chicken ChickenandLeekPie,163
CurriedChickenPies,164,168Chocolate AndrassyPudding,50,66–67 ChocolateBiscuitCake,13–14, 28,31 chocolatecakes,13–14 ChocolatePerfectionPie,72–73,73 ChocolateRoulade“YuleLog”, 176–177,182 CoffeeMousse,68 CrathieCrunch,134,135 GlenfiddichChocolateMousse,130 RoyalBirthdayCake,74–75,75 ChristmasCake,147,147,152, 178–179 Christmascelebrations,15, 145–153,150,151,153,154 ChristmasPudding,152,180Cookingtraining,vi–viiiCorgis,xiv,112,152,156CowesWeek,49,84Crepes CrepesIslandaise,45,67 Eastertraditions,44–45 EnglishPancakes,71 HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese andMapleSalmon,22–23,23CrossofSt.George,79CucumberandMintMousse,52
DDee,River,109,112–113Desserts.SeealsoCakes;Icecream; Piesandtarts AndrassyPudding,50,66–67 BrandySnaps,69,152 BreadandButterPudding,136,137
ChristmasPudding,152,180 CoffeeMousse,68 ColdLemonSoufflé,102–103, 103 CrathieCrunch,134,135 CrèmeBrûlée,43,70 EnglishPancakes,71 FramboisesSt.George,47,78,79 GlenfiddichChocolateMousse, 130 GreekYogurtandStrawberry Cheesecake,127,138 IcedPralineandAmarettoSoufflé withPoachedPear,193,218, 219 IsleofWightPudding,107 LemonCheese,80 LemonMille-FeuillewithRhubarb Coulis,76–77,77 PeachPannaCotta,217 PeachPrincess,139 QueenofPuddings,142 ScottishThistleShortbread,113, 131 SteamedSyrupSpongePudding, 168,181 SummerPudding,132,133 TarteTatin,104–105 TraditionalEnglishTrifle,182,183 VeiledFarmer’sDaughter,141 YogurtBrûléewithMangoand Papaya,105Diana,Princess,188,197 atBalmoralCastle,114–115, 116–117 onBritannia,85 complicatedlifeof,194–198
deathof,195–197 deerhuntingof,112 dogsand,46 entertainingatKensingtonPalace, 191–194 favoritefoodsof,9,115,137,188, 192–193,214 friendshipwith,15,115,195,199 giftsfrom,195,196 influenceof,vi atKensingtonPalace,v,185–195 mangoesand,12 menufor,3 notesfrom,187,188,191,196, 198 PrincessintheKitchen,188 SandringhamHouse,lovefor,155 separationfromCharles,185 weddingof,ix–x atWindsorCastle,46Dickman,Cyril,157Diplomaticreceptions,11–12DisneyWorld,87DukeofEdinburgh.SeePhilip,Prince
EEastertraditions,44–47,45Eastwood,Clint,193Edinburgh,Dukeof.SeePhilip,PrinceEggs CarrotandEggRouladewith MesclunSaladandaMaple GingerDressing,192,200–201 EggsDrumkilbo,94,95 PoachedEggsenCroûte,111,118, 120 PoachedEggsSuzette,216
Elizabeth,Queen(QueenMother),3, 85,113,154ElizabethII,Queen birthdaycelebration,45–46 corgisof,xiv,112,152,156 favoritefoodsof,13–14,31,45–46 giftsfor,12,41,88,146,149 giftsfrom,149 horsesatAscot,48 influenceof,viElizabethII,Queen menufor,3,26 pancakeday,45 Queen’scarrots,xiii teatime,xiv,13–14 WindsorCastlefire,38 WindsorHorseShow,49
FFromont,Mark,xiFruit BalmoralStrawberryJam,143 ColdLemonSoufflé,102–103, 103 FramboisesSt.George,47,78,79 GreekYogurtandStrawberry Cheesecake,127,138 IcedPralineandAmaretto SouffléwithPoachedPear,193, 218,219 IsleofWightPudding,107 LemonCheese,80 LemonMille-FeuillewithRhubarb Coulis,76–77,77 LemonRefresher,92,102 OldEnglishApplePie,140 ParsnipandAppleSoupwith
Parmesan-ChiveFoam,204,205 PeachPannaCotta,217 PeachPrincess,139 PearandWalnutSaladwith ParmesanBalsamicDressing, 204,209 RaspberryIceCream,28,29 RaspberryTartlets,34–35,75 StiltonandPecanSablewith PoachedPear,12,21,23 SummerPudding,132,133 TarteTatin,104–105 VeiledFarmer’sDaughter,141 YogurtBrûléewithMangoand Papaya,105Fruitcakes,147,147,152,178–179
GGardenteaparties,14–16Gardner,Anne,109GhilliesBall,113,116Giftsforroyalfamily,12,41,88,146, 149Gloucester,Duchessof,154Goldensyrup,155,175Grandprix,49
HHam CroquesMonsieur,12,17,23Harry,Prince,6,188,194 atBalmoralCastle,114–115 onBritannia,85 custodyarrangements,194–195 favoritefoodsof,123,142,175, 189,189,190–191 giftsfor,147,148
JuniorApprentices,190 atKensingtonPalace,187 rabbithunting,112 onRiverDee,113HolyroodPalace,2HomeParkPrivate,42,43,50Hotboxes,111–112Hyams&Cockerton,8
IIcecream atBuckinghamPalace,189–190 RaspberryIceCream,28,29 VanillaIceCream,65InternationalDrivingGrandPrix,49
JJams BalmoralStrawberryJam,143 JamandCreamSponge,28,106 JamandCreamSwissRoll,33
KKensingtonPalace,184 entertainingat,191–194 foodservedat,187–191,189, 192–194 lifeat,185–195 menusfor,8
LLamb LambRaan(IndianLegofLamb), 167 NavarinofLambwithHerbed Dumplings,168,169 RackofLambwithGarlic,
Rosemary,andJuniper,56 RoastSpringLegofLamb,53LifeboatInn,150
MMales,Pete,viiiManatees(seacows),88Margaret,Princess,45Marmite,25Masson,Sandy,112McGradyfamily,ixMenuRoyaltradition,8Menus,3,13,26,89MulberryGin,44,81
NNewYear’sEve,156–157,157
OOrderoftheGarter,47
PPage,Peter,6,8Pancakeday,44–45Parker,Michael,xiParkHouse,145ParsnipandAppleSoupwith Parmesan-ChiveFoam,204,205Pastillagedishes,10–11,10Pheasants BreastofPheasantwithaPearl Barley“Risotto”,171 SupremeofPheasantStuffedwith GoatCheese,166Philip,Prince atBalmoralCastle,113–114 favoritefoodsof,25,45,67
gardensatBalmoralCastle,110 grilling,loveof,114,125,127 InternationalDrivingGrandPrix, 49 menufor,3 yachtracing,84,86Piesandtarts,sweet ChocolatePerfectionPie,72–73,73 MincePies,152,174,182 OldEnglishApplePie,140 RaspberryTartlets,34–35,75 TarteTatin,104–105 TreacleTart,175Piesandtarts,savory ChickenandLeekPie,163 CottagePie,115,122,123–124 CurriedChickenPies,164,168Pine,Robert,115,115,147Plumpuddings,152
QQueen’scarrots,xiiiQuick,David,81
RRoyalAirForce,viiiRoyalAscothorseraces,2,47–49Royalcalendar,xii,1–2,5,37,109,145RoyalHouseholdSocialClub,40, 152–153Royallife,vRoyalwarrant,7RoyalWindsorHorseShow,1,49–50
SSaladdressings CarrotandEggRouladewith
MesclunSaladandaMaple GingerDressing,192,200–201 ChiveCreamDressing,52 FrenchDressing,93 PearandWalnutSaladwith ParmesanBalsamicDressing, 204,209 PureedHerbDressing,192,215Salads AvocadoandHeartsofPalm Salad,201 CarrotandEggRouladewith MesclunSaladandaMaple GingerDressing,192,200–201 FallGreenswithRoastedBeets, CaramelizedWalnuts,Goat Cheese,WalnutDressing,202 PearandWalnutSaladwith ParmesanBalsamicDressing, 204,209 PressedVegetableTerrine,203 SmokedSalmonandCrabmeat Custards,212–213SandringhamHouse,144 beautyof,145,155 BoxingDayat,154–155 Christmasat,145–153,150,151, 153,154 foodservedat,146,151–152,153, 153,154–155 kitchenandchefsat,145,146 NewYear’sEve,156–157,157 royalcalendar,xii,1,145 shootingparties,154–155Sarah,DuchessofYork,13,14,30, 155,190Sauces
BrandySauce,179 BreadSauce,151,162 CreamWalnutDressing,158 DillCreamSauce,64 DillHollandaise,128 GravadLaxwithSauceSuedoise, 121 PiquantDillandLimeSauce,162 TenderloinSteaks,withBoursin, Rosemary,BellPepperSauce, 126,127 TenderloinSteaks,withStilton andWalnutCrust,Mushroom CreamSauce,100SausageRolls,23,24SavoyHotel,viii,ix–xScrabsterHarbor,85Scones,xiii RoyalTeaScones,xiv,75Seafood ChilledTomatoandDillMousse withLobster,9,20,193 CurriedSalmonKedgeree,111,117, 118 EggsDrumkilbo,94,95 GleneaglesPâté,18–19,19 GoujonsofSalmonwith TyrolienneSauce,113,129 GravadLaxwithSauceSuedoise, 121 HaddockSt.Germain,101 HerbedCrepeswithGoatCheese andMapleSalmon,22–23,23 LobsterThermidor,210,211 PoachedSalmonwithDill Hollandaise,128 SalmonenCroûte,58
SalmonFishcakes,118,119 SmokedSalmonandCrabmeat Custards,212–213 SoleMurat,57Shootingparties,111–112,154–155Sidebars Ascot,48 BeatRetreat,90 BeetRed,192 ChristmasBall,15 ChristmasPudding,152 DianaattheCastle,46 FeedingtheCooks,150 GiftFromaQueen,149 HollywoodatHome,193 HuntressDiana,112 JuniorApprentices,190 FromKitchentoTable,7 LeftoversforDinner,153 Maids-a-Milking,42–43,43 MeetingaPrincess,115 OfMiceandMen,87 NotYourTypicalFruitcake,147,147 PrincessintheKitchen,188 ProvisioningtheKitchen,41 RoyalGifts,88 RoyalPolitesse,12 SneakAttack,148 WavesOutsideandInside,91 WhattoWear,155 WhatWilltheQueenEat?,8 WhoFootstheBill?,9 WildBalmoral,111 WindsorAblaze,38 WindsorMulberries,44Smith,Arthur,148Soufflés
accidentatWindsorCastle,41–42 AndrassyPudding,50,66–67 CheeseSoufflé,96,97 ColdLemonSoufflé,102–103,103 IcedPralineandAmarettoSoufflé withPoachedPear,193,218,219 SpinachSoufflé,26–27Soupsandstews BeefCurry-EnglishStyle,172 IrishStew,170 NavarinofLambwithHerbed Dumplings,168,169 ParsnipandAppleSoupwith Parmesan-ChiveFoam,204,205 SpringAsparagusSoupwithDill,51 VenisonStew,165Statevisitsandbanquets,8–11,10,11Stews.SeeSoupsandstewsSt.George,47,79St.Stephen’sDay,154Superman,85,85
TTarts.SeePiesandtartsTeatime,xiv,12–14Transportingfood,7,48–49,125Treacle,155Turkey RoastTurkey,160,161
VVanillaSugar,76Veal PojarskiSmitane,98,99Vegetables AvocadoandHeartsofPalmSalad, 201
BasmatiRicePilaf,173Vegetables BreastofPheasantwithaPearl Barley“Risotto”,171 CarrotandEggRouladewith MesclunSaladandaMaple GingerDressing,192,200–201 ChickenandLeekPie,163 ChilledTomatoandDillMousse (Fat-FreeVersion),9,193,213 ChilledTomatoandDillMousse withLobster,9,20,193 ChouxálaCherbourg,55,59 CottagePie,115,122,123–124 FallGreenswithRoastedBeets, CaramelizedWalnuts,Goat Cheese,WalnutDressing,202 HaddockSt.Germain,101 MarinatedPortabellaMushrooms, 124,127 MashedPotatoes,159,168 Normandy-StyleBoulangère Potatoes,61,62 PetitPoisálaFrançais,61,63 PommesFondantes,64 PressedVegetableTerrine,203 RoastedSpringVegetables,60,61 SageDerbyDauphinoise Potatoes,27 SpinachandRedPepperRoulade withShavedParmesan,208–209 SpinachSoufflé,26–27 SpringAsparagusSoup withDill,51 StuffedAubergine(Stuffed Eggplant),190,206,214–215 StuffedBellPeppers,206,207
WWhybrew,Paul,38William,Prince,6,188,194 atBalmoralCastle,114–115 onBritannia,85 chocolateeggfor,46 custodyarrangements,194–195 favoritefoodsof,123,142,189, 189,190–191 giftsfor,147,148 JuniorApprentices,190 atKensingtonPalace,187 rabbithunting,112 onRiverDee,113WindsorCastle,36 beautyof,37 dairyat,42–43,43 Eastertraditions,44–47,45 fireat,38 foodservedat,40–41 kitchenandchefsat,39–40,41–42 mangoesat,41 mulberrytreesat,44 OrderoftheGarter,47 royalcalendar,1,2,37 springtimeat,44 Windsorweekends,40–42WindsorGreatPark,42WindsorHorseShow,1,49–50WoodFarm,145,155,156,156,185
YYachtracing,49,84Young,John,110Yulelogs,146,152,154,176–177,182