Dreamscapes Down Under

8/9/2019 Dreamscapes Down Under

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V i r t u o s o i n s i g h t s V i r t u o s o i n s i g h t s 19

Kangaroos and koalas. Sauvignon blanc and shiraz. Dramatic

scenery, exuberant cities, and cultural encounters with indigenous

populations.Anita Carmin discovers that a New Zealand and

Australia cruise delivers the best of both dream destinations.

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Spear in hand, eyes wide as salad plates,the tattooed Maori warrior appears less thanfriendly. What are your intentions? he demands in loud,indecipherable chants. Hal, a gregarious Florida businessman

and the leader of our visiting tribe quietly approaches, picksup the small branch the warrior has placed on the ground, then

respectfully backs away. Translation: We have come in peace.

The ritual complete, my boyfriend, Robert, and I are allowed

to enter the marae the sacred Maori meeting ground where

the warriors tribal members have gathered for generations.

After mihimihi and whaikorero (greetings and speeches), were

warmly welcomed with a hongi the ceremonial pressing of

noses and foreheads, and the exchange of breath to signify

unity. What a lovely and cordial custom, I think. What a

wonderful introduction to these lands down under.

This is our first day ashore on Holland America Lines 14-day

New Zealand and Australia voyage; a cruise where, Ill discover,no two days are the same. Thats the beauty of these diverse

island nations. One day youre rubbing noses with a Maori

tribe member; the next, youre debating the merits of a crisp

sauvignon blanc at an outdoor wine-tasting.

More Dreamscapes Down Under on page 20 P

Lf rih: Lion Rock lounges on Piha Beach near Auckland; the head of apou whenua (carved land post) contemplates the relationship between

living Maori, their ancestors, and their environment; ripe for the picking; andthe Melbourne Arts Centre, the focal point of the citys cultural precinct.

Jenny&TonyEnderby/Gettyimages


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While many plan a vacation to one or theother down-under destination, I reason that ifRobert and I are going to fly half way across the world, it

only makes sense to combine New Zealand and Australia

on one multifaceted voyage. (After all, who knows when

well have an opportunity to return?)

Thats why the idea of this cruise is so appealing: Fly

to Auckland. Hop on the ship. Unpack once. And see the

best of both Southern Hemisphere worlds on one two-week

adventure culminating in Sydney.

Holland America Lines 1,432-guest Volendam is the

perfect ship for the trip: big enough to offer the amenities

I like a lido-deck fitness center with panoramic views,

a cushy spa complete with heated ceramic chaise lounges,

a culinary arts center offering daily cooking demos yet

not so big I need a map to find my way around. Theres

always ample space on the lower promenade deck for

brisk walks in the sea air, and plenty of room along the

polished rail to take in the scenery which, on our first

day at sea, includes New Zealands most active volcano,

White Island aptly named by Captain Cook for the

dense white clouds of smoke it emits.

Its strange (in a good way) to awake in a completely

different world each morning. The day following our

shore excursion to the marae, the Volendam slips into

Napier, a lively seaside resort in Hawkes Bay. Devastated

by an earthquake in 1931, the city was rebuilt in Art

Deco style. Since Hawkes Bay is one of New Zealands

leading wine producing regions, Robert and I opt for

the Picturesque Puketapu shore excursion featuring

a visit to Moana Park, a boutique winery specializing in

organic varietals. Its our chance to taste winemaker Dan

Barkers award-winning sauvignon blanc and pinot gris,

not available outside of New Zealand.

The next day finds us in Wellington, where we wish

we were wearing Wellingtons (aka Wellies), when the

clouds open up en route to Te Papa Tongarewa. This not-

to-be-missed Museum of New Zealand warrants a full-

day visit, but when the morning rains subside, we bolt

outdoors to ride the citys famous cable car that whisks

us up a steep incline to the 141-year-old Wellington

Botanic Garden. We stroll this national treasure

classified as a Garden of National Significance by the

Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture from

top to bottom, marveling at the exotic trees and

enormous hydrangeas.

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Clckwis frm uppr lf: White Island lets off some steam; a taste ofNew Zealand; and poppies blaze at the Wellington Botanic Garden.


JoseAzel/Gettyimages


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I love Wellington (which reminds me alot of San Francisco), and two days later Imjust as enamored with Christchurch, nicknamed the

most English city outside of England. It does look like

England, Robert and I concur, as we pass Christchurch

Cathedral on the citys historic tram. From England

we cruise to Scotland, enjoying a port call at misty

Dunedin, deemed the Edinburgh of the South by its

Scottish founders.

At this point, midway through the cruise, I cantruthfully verify what Ive heard for years: Kiwis are

genuinely friendly, downright jolly, and bend-over-

backwards helpful. We see it everywhere in the taxi

drivers, the shopkeepers, even the Christchurch librarian

when we appear just before closing to check our e-mail.

Something else I love: the way Kiwis talk; their clever and

humorous expressions. One of our dinner tablemates,

Dennis, is a Kiwi. I tell him Im concerned about reports

of rough seas and strong winds in Fiordland National

Park since I tend toward queasiness. No worries, he

assures me. Worst case: Head to the infirmary, get ajab

[shot] and youll be right as rain.

Fortunately, no jab is required. Its smooth sailing

and sunny skies as we sail into Milford Sound, the

parks breathtaking 10-mile-long fjord. While Ive seen

untold photos of this dramatic natural wonder first

discovered by the Maori people more than a thousand

years ago nothing compares to being there in person,

out on the bow of the Volendam, surrounded by sky-

piercing, emerald forest-clad cliffs. Our cameras work

overtime snapping plunging waterfalls and pyramid-

shaped Mitres Peak that towers a mile over our heads.After eight days of port calls and scenic cruising, I

welcome two days at sea to reflect on where weve been

and where were going. Crossing the Tasman Sea to

Australia, theres time to hit the gym, take a cooking

class, have a massage, tour the galley, and attend an

art lecture. Todays talk: Salvador Dal: Madman or

Genius? Martin Joubert, the Volendams art director, is

both knowledgeable and entertaining, dishing up you-

gotta-be-kidding anecdotes that lead me to believe he

personally knew the surrealist. (Ditto for his lecture on

Picasso the week before).


nothing compares to seeing milforD soUnDin person, oUt on the bow of the Volendam, sUrroUnDeD

by sky-piercing, emeralD forest-claD cliffs.

Clckwis frm uppr lf: Waterfalls plunge into Milford Sound; Mitre Peak piercesthe sky; and to great heights: a cable car ascends the steep slopes of Wellington.


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One of the pluses of sailing down underwith Holland America Line: Many cruisesinclude a day in Tasmania, Australias only island state.

Separated from the mainland at the end of the last Ice

Age, Tasmania is a refuge for many threatened species on

the continent. Robert and I book the shore excursion to

Wings Wildlife Park, a haven for injured and orphaned

wildlife. We roam freely among a dozen kangaroos

that allow us to pet them and admire their joeys. Wecozy up to a sleepy-eyed koala, have a humorous chat

with a sulphur-crested cockatoo, and come face to face

separated, thankfully, by a short fence with the

islands notorious Tasmanian devils.

Melbourne (pronounced Mel-bun) is next. Australias

second-largest city, it is both regal and refined, hip

and happening. The city claims the most elaborate

Victorian architecture in all of Australia along with one

of the tallest buildings the landmark Rialto Towers

in the entire Southern Hemisphere. (A 55th-floor

observation deck offers a 360-degree panorama of the

city.) When in Melbourne, you mustride the City Circle

tram, which, of course, we do. The worlds largest tram

network, its red heritage trams circuit the city for free,

allowing you to hop on and off at major attractions.

We spend our Saturday morning ashore riding the

tram, admiring the architecture, window-shopping in

tucked-away boutique-lined lanes, and exploring Lygon

Street, Melbournes Little Italy, which boasts the

highest concentration of Italian restaurants and cafs

in Australia.

That afternoon we meet up with some newfound

friends from the ship a lively mix of Americans,

Canadians, Kiwis, and Aussies for a late lunch at

Number 8, one of the hot restaurants in Melbournes

swanky Crown Entertainment Complex. I opt for local

snapper and Robert, the Moreton Bay bugs (a species

of lobster from Australias north coast), as our table

conducts an informal tasting of Australian wines. Our

favorite: the Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2006.


Clckwis frm uppr lf: Tasmanian angel: a koala poses on its perch;Melbourne rises from the banks of the Yarra River; and men at work.


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goQantas Airlines offers a number of

non-stop or direct flights to Auckland

and Sydney from various U.S. cities,

including Los Angeles, New York, and

San Francisco.

SeeHolland America Line explores the

wonders down under on a series of

14- and 17-day Australia and New

Zealand cruises sailing from Sydney

to Auckland (or reverse) between

December 6, 2009 and February

3, 2010. From $1,699 per person. A

48-day voyage between Sydney and

Brisbane departs February 28, 2010.

From $4,999 per person. In addition,

the Volendam will embark on a 34-day

circumnavigation of Australia

including a five-day Great Barrier

Reef experience on March 14, 2010.

From $3,999 per person.

StAyLocated in Sydneys historic Rocks

district, the Park Hyatt Sydney

offers jaw-dropping views of the citys

celebrated harbor, Opera House and/

or Harbour Bridge from its 158 well-

appointed rooms, most with private

balconies. The rooftop deck provides

the ideal venue for relaxation, while

the chic Tony Chidesigned restaurant

allows guests to take in the fresh sea

air and Sydney Harbour views through

floor-to-ceiling glass doors. Virtuoso

guests receive an upgrade on arrival,

if available; daily continental buffet

breakfast; chilled bottle of French

Champagne; and early check-in, if

available. For up-to-the-minute pricing,

contact your Virtuoso travel advisor.

DoinG iTVISITING AUSTRALIA& NEW ZEALAND

In Australia, we discover, one spectacular meal issure to be topped by the next. We celebrate our last nighton board with dinner in the Pinnacle Grill, the Volendams intimate,

reservations-only dining room where Holland America Line kicks

it up a notch: tables set with Frette linens, Bvlgari china, Riedel

stemware, and menus featuring gargantuan cuts of Sterling Silverbeef along with a Wine Spectatorworthy wine list. Also impressive:

a Caesar salad prepared tableside and the warm Grand Marnier

chocolate volcano cake.

While Robert and I are sad to see the cruise end, were looking

forward to tomorrow. Like many of the other guests on board, we

plan to extend our holiday in Sydney, a destination that warrants a

longer-than-eight-hour port call. Thats the beauty of this voyage. It

is delivering us in style, and at considerable savings right to one

of the planets most exciting cities.

Is this the trip of a lifetime or what? As our Aussie friends would

say, Too right!

Frm p: Perfect presentation: a Caesarsalad with anchovies, and iconic Sydney.

Dreamscapes Down Under

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