DOWNTOWN - Mason-Dixon Knitting · 2019-03-17 · MDK Color by Jill Draper Bottom Line Pullover...

| i

mason-dixon knittingfield guide n0. 10

Kay Gardiner and Ann Shayne

DOWNTOWN

ii |

Introduction

Petula Pullover

MDK Color by Jill Draper

Bottom Line Pullover

Downtown Omaha

X-Factor Cowls

Exhibit A

Two Knitters, One City

Getting to Know Designer Isabell Kraemer

Abbreviations

Our Mission

2.

6.

14.

16.

26.

28.

32.

34.

36.

38.

40.

CONTENTS

Downtown

mdk field guide no. 10

Kay Gardiner and Ann Shayne

2 | | 3

INTRODUCTION

Maybe you don’t know who Tony Hatch is. We didn’t, until we discovered that he is the genius behind the song “Downtown” that became Petula

Clark’s biggest hit and an international musical phenomenon.

Tony Hatch grew up outside London, as did Petula Clark. In the leafy suburbs. In 1964, he made his first visit to New York City. Wandering from his Central Park hotel, he stopped at 48th Street, saw the neon lights of Times Square coming on, and thought he’d arrived downtown.

A song was born. Except.

He wasn’t even downtown. The inspiration for his hit “Downtown” wasn’t even the true downtown of New York—which was located miles away down Broadway. But who cares? He captured everything that we think of when we think of downtown: the energy, the people, the wide-open feeling, the escape that can come even when you’re in a crowd. Even Petula Clark’s starry- eyed performance feels right.

Why are we giving you the history of a song here at the outset of this Field Guide?

Because we’re struck by the way that “downtown” is such a rich idea to so many people, how it has universal appeal. Anybody who’s been to New York remembers that first visit so vividly.Downtown is a state of mind.

4 | | 5

Downtown is where the fun is. Downtown is that feeling of being in the center of it all, where there’s nothing to stop you. Or as Clark sang, “Just listen to the music of the traffic in the city / Linger on the sidewalk where the neon signs are pretty / How can you lose? / The lights are much brighter there / You can forget all your troubles, forget all your cares.”

If you’re wondering what knitwear designer most captures the spirit of downtown, in our humble opinions it is Isabell Kraemer. From the moment we first discovered Isabell’s iconic photos of her self-modeling her own designs, we were knocked out by the attitude that comes pouring out. Isabell brings a casual, seemingly effortless chic to everything she creates.

It doesn’t matter that Isabell lives in a small town in Germany and, in fact, has never lived in a city. The three designs she created for this Field Guide prove our point. The Petula Pullover is a no-fuss, wear-everyday sweater with a band of geometric color-work that feels simultaneously ancient and modern, especially in Isabell’s neutral color palette. The Bottom Line Pullover is a gorgeous lesson in minimalism with a twist, in this case a rustic yarn combined with a strategic band of lace. And, in a design Isabell originally came up with just for herself—just to keep warm—the X-Factor Cowls are two cowls to wear together or on their own, with a handy drawstring for style and fit.

Love,

6 | | 7

Isabell kraemer loves a sweater with a pattern around the yoke. In fact, she can rightly be called a championship-level yoke sweater designer, given that her

Humulus pullover was the champion of MDK March Mayhem 2018. To learn more about that knitterly extravaganza, check out: masondixonknitting.com/march-mayhem/ To have a new yoke sweater from Isabell is a true joy. Petula (named after Petula Clark) takes the idea of a yoke down to a single band of patterning—a narrower swath of curvilinear shapes that Isabell first developed with a pencil and eraser on graph paper and then refined with swatching. While the shapes are all hers, she suspects a conversation with a friend about suzani wall hangings around the time she was working out the details may have influenced her subliminally.

This sweater is worked from the top down, such a fun, addic-tive technique: around and around, trying on as you go.

PETULAPULLOVER

8 | | 9

kniTTed meASuRemenTSBust: 353/4 (391/4, 43, 453/4, 483/4,

521/4)" [91 (99.5, 109, 116, 124, 132.5) cm]

Length to top of shoulder: 241/2 (25, 251/2,

26, 261/2, 27)" [62 (63.5, 65, 66, 67.5,

68.5) cm]

SizeX-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large,

2X-Large)

To fit bust sizes 30–32 (34–36, 38–40,

40–42, 43–45, 47–49)" [76–81.5

(86.5–91.5, 96.5–101.5, 101.5–106.5,

109–114.5, 119.5–124.5) cm]

mATeRiAlS — Mohonk by Jill Draper Makes Stuff

[4 oz (113 g) skeins, each approx

370 yds (338 m), 100% cormo wool]:

4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins Bone (A);

1 skein Barnside (B)

— Size US 3 (3.25 mm) circular needles,

16" (40 cm) and 32" (80 cm) long,

and double-pointed needles (set of

4 or 5)


16" (40 cm) and 32" (80 cm) long and

double-pointed needles (set of 4 or

5), or size needed to achieve gauge

— Stitch markers

— Waste yarn

gAuge22 sts and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) over St

st, using larger needle

SpeciAl AbbReviATionSDS: Double stitch; see Special

Technique, German Short Rows

STiTcH pATTeRn1×1 Rib (even number of sts)

— All Rnds: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

SpeciAl TecHniQueGerman Short Rows: Work number of

stitches indicated in pattern, turn work.

With yarn in front, slip first stitch purl-

wise, then pull yarn tightly up and over

needle so that two legs of stitch below

slipped stitch are showing; this creates

a Double Stitch (DS) on right needle. If

next stitch to be worked is a purl stitch,

bring yarn back around to the front, ready

to purl; if next stitch is a knit stitch, keep

yarn at back, ready to knit.

When you come to gap created by DS

on next row, knit or purl two legs of DS

together to close DS, depending on

whether stitch is to be a knit stitch or a

purl stitch. The two legs of DS will always

be counted as a single stitch.

noTeSThis pullover is worked in the round

from the top down to the armholes, then

sleeves and body are divided and worked

separately in the round to bottom edge.

Short rows are used to shape back neck

and lower back yoke.

YOKE

Using smaller 16" long circular needle and A, CO 96 (100, 104, 110, 116, 122) sts using long-tail method. Join, being careful not to twist sts; pm for beg of rnd (marker is at center back) and work in the rnd as follows:

— Work in 1×1 Rib for 5 rnds. — Change to larger 16" long circular

needle. — Knit 1 rnd.

Note: Change to larger 32" (80 cm) long circular needle when necessary for number of sts on needle

SHApe bAck neckNote: Back neck is shaped using German Short Rows (see Special Technique).

— Short Row 1 (RS): K24 (26, 28, 32, 34, 36), turn.

— Short Row 2 (WS): DS, purl to beg-of-rnd marker, sm, p24 (26, 28, 32, 34, 36), turn.

— Short Row 3: DS, knit to beg-of-rnd marker, sm, [k5, M1L] 3 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times, knit to DS, close DS, k3, turn—3 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts inc.

— Short Row 4: DS, purl to beg-of-rnd marker, sm, [p5, M1PL] 3 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times, purl to DS, close DS, p3, turn—3 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts inc.

— Short Row 5: DS, knit to DS, close DS, k3, turn.

— Short Row 6: DS, purl to DS, close DS, p3, turn.

— Short Rows 7 and 8: Rep Short Rows 5 and 6 once.

— Short Row 9: DS, knit to beg-of-rnd marker; do not turn—102 (108, 114, 120, 126, 132) sts.

— Resume knitting in the rnd; knit 2 rnds, closing DSs as you come to them.

— Inc Rnd: *K3, M1L; rep from * to end—136 (144, 152, 160, 168, 176) sts.

— Knit 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) rnds. — Inc Rnd: *K2, M1R, k5, M1L, k1; rep

from * to end—170 (180, 190, 200, 210, 220) sts.

— Knit 1 rnd.

10 | | 11

A

B

No stitch

M1R

M1L

Chart A

11

9

7

5

3

1

13

10-st rep;inc to 12 sts

21

19

17

15

23

5

3

1

14-st rep

Chart B

— Work Rnds 1–23 of Chart A once, working incs as indicated in chart—204 (216, 228, 240, 252, 264) sts.

— Inc Rnd: *K3, M1R, k7, M1L, k2; rep from * to end—238 (252, 266, 280, 294, 308) sts.

— Work Rnds 1–5 of Chart B once. — Knit 2 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) rnds. — Inc Rnd: *K4, M1L, k3; rep from * to

end—272 (288, 304, 320, 336, 352) sts. — Knit 6 (7, 9, 9, 9, 9) rnds.

Sizes X-Small, Small, and Large Only — Inc Rnd: *K17 (24, –, 8, –, –), M1L; rep

from * to end—288 (300, –, 360, –, –) sts.

Size Medium Only — Inc Rnd: *K9, M1L, k10, M1L; rep

from * to end—336 sts.

Sizes X-Large and 2X-Large Only — Inc Rnd: *[K– (–, –, –, 8, 9), M1L] 4

times, k– (–, –, –, 10, 8), M1L; rep from * to end— – (–, –, –, 376, 392) sts.

All Sizes — Work in St st (knit every rnd) until

piece measures 71/4 (73/4, 81/4, 83/4, 91/4, 93/4)" [18.5 (19.5, 21, 22, 23.5, 25) cm] from center front.

SHApe loweR bAck Yoke — Short Row 1 (RS): K104 (107, 119, 129,

134, 139), turn. — Short Row 2 (WS): DS, purl to beg-of-

rnd marker, sm, p104 (107, 119, 129, 134, 139), turn.



— Short Rows 5–8: Rep Short Rows 3 and 4 twice.

— Short Row 9: DS, knit to beg-of-rnd marker; do not turn.

— Resume knitting in the rnd; knit 1 rnd, closing DSs as you come to them.

divide foR SleeveS And bodY

— Dividing Rnd: Remove marker, k45 (48, 53, 56, 59, 62), place next 54 (54, 62, 68, 70, 72) sts on waste yarn for right sleeve, using backwards loop method, CO 4 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts for underarm, pm for new beg of rnd, CO 4 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts for underarm, k90 (96, 106, 112, 118, 124), place next 54 (54, 62, 68, 70, 72) sts on waste yarn for left sleeve, using backwards loop method,

17½ (18¼, 19, 20, 21, 22¼)"44.5 (46.5, 48.5, 51, 53.5, 56.5) cm

9½

(10

, 10

½, 1

1, 11

½, 1

2)"

24 (2

5.5,

26.

5, 2

8, 2

9, 3

0.5

) cm

24½

(25,

25½

, 26,

26

½, 2

7)"

62

(63

.5, 6

5, 6

6, 6

7.5,

68.

5) c

m

15"

38

cm

35¾ (39¼, 43, 45¾, 48¾, 52¼)"91 (99.5, 109, 116, 124, 132.5) cm

9 (9½, 9½, 9¾, 10¼, 11)"23 (24, 24, 25, 26, 28) cm

18"45.5 cm

11¼ (12, 13½, 15, 15¾, 16¾)"28.5 (30.5, 34.5, 38, 40, 42.5) cm

2"5

cm

12 | | 13

CO 4 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts for underarm, pm for side, CO 4 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts for underarm, knit to end—196 (216, 236, 252, 268, 288) sts.

— Next Rnd: P1 (faux seam st), knit to marker, sm, p1 (faux seam st), knit to end.

— Work even until piece measures 121/2" (32 cm), or to 21/2" (6.5 cm) less than desired length from underarm.

— Change to smaller 32" (80 cm) long circular needle.

— Work in 1 × 1 Rib until piece meas-ures 15" (38 cm), or to desired length from underarm.

— BO all sts in pattern.

SleeveSUsing larger dpns, and beg at center underarm, pick up and knit 4 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts from CO underarm sts, knit across sts from waste yarn, pick up and knit 4 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts from CO underarm sts—62 (66, 74, 82, 86, 92) sts. Note: To avoid holes at each edge of the underarm CO, you may want to pick up 1 less st on each side of the CO sts, then work a M1L or M1R increase at each of these points on the first rnd following pick-up.

Pm for beg of rnd and work in the rnd as follows:

— Next Rnd: P1 (faux seam st), knit to end.

— Work even until piece measures 21/2" (6.5 cm) from underarm.

SHApe Sleeve — Dec Rnd: P1, k1, k2tog, knit to last 3

sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec. — Rep Dec Rnd every 18 (15, 9, 7, 6,

6) rnds 5 (6, 10, 13, 14, 15) more times—50 (52, 52, 54, 56, 60) sts.

— Work even until piece measures 16" (40.5 cm), or to 2" (5 cm) less than desired length from underarm.

— Change to smaller dpns. — Work in 1 × 1 Rib until piece meas-

ures 18" (45.5 cm), or to desired length from underarm.


finiSHingWeave in ends; block as desired.

14 | | 15

MDK Color by Jill DraperAll the projects in this Field Guide are made with yarn from Jill Draper Makes Stuff. Jill was a downtown girl until she left her job in New York City’s fashion district to live and work way uptown, about 70 miles north in the Hudson Valley. Jill designs her own yarns—collaborating with sheep farmers and a mill to make sure they’re just right—before she hand-dyes them with her proprietary recipes. For MDK, Jill concocted this beautiful palette for Mohonk and Mohonk Light, the yarns Isabell chose for the two sweaters in this Field Guide.

16 | | 17

Isabell gives this lightweight, solid-color pullover its downtown cool by matching Mohonk Light, a lightweight rustic yarn from Jill Draper,

with a delicate eyelet round and eight rounds of a zig-zag lace at the yoke—plus an extra eyelet round near the ribbing at the bottom. The zig-zag lace is dis-tinctive, both as a surface design and as a cool knitting trick, recalling wrapped cables in nautical sweaters.

We've named this sweater, with its subtly embellished hem, in honor of The Bottom Line, a legendary live music venue on West 4th Street in New York City, which had a 25-year run before closing in 2004. The Bottom Line seated 400 people and showcased acts from the Pointer Sisters to Bruce Springsteen. Every time a certain young woman from Omaha got herself there, she summoned all the offhand elegance she could muster. This pullover would have been perfect.

BOTTOM LINEPULLOVER

18 | | 19

kniTTed meASuRemenTSBust: 36 (393/4, 431/2, 461/2, 491/2, 531/4)"

[91.5 (101, 110.5, 118, 125.5, 135.5) cm]

Length to top of shoulder: 241/2 (25, 251/2,

26, 261/2, 27)" [62 (63.5, 65, 66, 67.5,

68.5) cm]

SizeX-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large,

2X-Large)

To fit bust sizes 31-33 (34-36, 38-40,

41-43, 44-46, 48-50)" [78.5-84 (86.5-91.5,

96.5-101.5, 104-109, 112-117, 122-127) cm]

mATeRiAlS — Mohonk Light by Jill Draper Makes

Stuff [4 oz (113 g) skeins, each approx

550 yds (502 m), 100% cormo wool]:

3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins Bad Penny

— Size US 21/2 (3 mm) circular needles,

16" (40 cm) and 32" (80 cm) long, and

double-pointed needles (set of 4 or 5)


16" (40 cm) and 32" (80 cm) long and

double-pointed needles (set of 4 or

5), or size needed to achieve gauge

— Stitch markers

16½ (16½, 17½, 18½, 19½, 19½)"42 (42, 44.5, 47, 49.5, 49.5) cm

9¼

(9¾

, 10

¼, 1

0¾

, 11¼

, 11¾

)"23

.5 (2

5, 2

6, 2

7.5,

28.

5, 3

0) c

m

24½

(25,

25½

, 26,

26

½, 2

7)"

62

(63

.5, 6

5, 6

6, 6

7.5,

68.

5) c

m

15¼

"3

8.5

cm

36 (39¾, 43½, 46½, 49½, 53¼)"91.5 (101, 110.5, 118, 125.5, 135.5) cm

9¼ (9¼, 9½, 9¾, 9¾, 10¼)"23.5 (23.5, 24, 25, 25, 26) cm

18"45.5 cm

11½ (12, 13½, 14¾, 15¾, 16½)"29 (30.5, 34.5, 37.5, 40, 42) cm

2"5

cm

20 | | 21

STITCH PATTERNS

1 × 1 Rib (even number of sts)

— All Rnds: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

openwoRk pATTeRn (multiple of 12 sts) (see chart)

— Rnd 1: *Yo, SL4R, p1, SL4L, yo, p1;

rep from * to end.

— Rnd 2: *K5, p1; rep from * to end.

— Rnd 3: *K1, yo, SL3R, p1, SL3L, yo,

k1, p1; rep from * to end.

— Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2.

— Rnd 5: *K2, yo, SL2R, p1, SL2L, yo,


— Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 2.

— Rnd 7: *K3, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo,


— Rnd 8: Repeat Rnd 2.

SpeciAl TecHniQueGerman Short Rows: Work the number

of stitches indicated in the pattern, turn

work. With the yarn in front, slip the first

stitch purlwise, then pull the yarn tightly

up and over the needle so that the two

legs of the stitch below the slipped stitch

are showing; this creates a Double Stitch

(DS) on the right needle. If the next stitch

to be worked is a purl stitch, bring the

yarn to the front, ready to purl; if the next

stitch is a knit stitch, keep the yarn at the

back, ready to knit.

When you come to the gap created by

the DS on the next row, knit or purl the

two legs of the DS together to close the

DS, depending on whether the stitch is

to be a knit stitch or a purl stitch. The two

legs of the DS will always be counted as

a single stitch.

noTeSThis pullover is worked in the round from

the top down to the armholes, then the

sleeves and body are divided and worked

separately in the round to the bottom

edge. Short rows are used to shape the

back neck and lower back yoke. You may

work the Openwork Pattern from the text

or the chart.

gAuge26 sts and 36 rows = 4" (10 cm) over

stockinette stitch, using larger needle

SpeciAl AbbReviATionSDS: Double stitch; see Special

Technique, German Short Rows

SL2L: Slip 3 sts purlwise from left to

right needle, lift third st over first 2 sts

and off needle, slip 2 sts back to left

needle, k2—1 st dec.

SL2R: Lift third st on left needle over first

2 sts and off needle, k2—1 st dec.

SL3L: Slip 4 sts purlwise from left to right

needle, lift fourth st over first 3 sts and

off needle, slip 3 sts back to left needle,

k3—1 st dec.

SL3R: Lift fourth st on left needle over

first 3 sts and off needle, k3—1 st dec.

SL4L: Slip 5 sts purlwise from left to

right needle, lift fifth st over first 4 sts

and off needle, slip 4 sts back to left

needle, k4—1 st dec.

SL4R: Lift fifth st on left needle over first

4 sts and off needle, k4—1 st dec.

Purl

Knit

K2tog

Yo

SL2R

Ssk

SL3R

SL2L

SL4R

SL3L

SL4L

12-st rep

Openwork Pa�ern

7

5

3

1

8

6

4

2

Purl

Knit

K2tog

Yo

SL2R

Ssk

SL3R

SL2L

SL4R

SL3L

SL4L

12-st rep

Openwork Pa�ern

7

5

3

1

8

6

4

2

22 | | 23

— Work Rnds 1–8 of Openwork Pattern once.

— Inc Rnd: K3, M1L, *k6, M1L; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3—252 (266, 280, 294, 308, 322) sts.

— Knit 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10) rnds. — Inc Rnd: *K7, M1L; rep from * to

end—288 (304, 320, 336, 352, 368) sts. — Knit 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10) rnds. — Inc Rnd: K4, M1L, *k8, M1L; rep

from * to last 4 sts, k4—324 (342, 360, 378, 396, 414) sts.

— Knit 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10) rnds.

Sizes X-Small, Large, X-Large, and 2X-Large Only

— Inc Rnd: *K18 (–, –, 9, 9, 9), M1L; rep from * to end—342 (–, –, 420, 440, 460) sts.

Size Small Only — Inc Rnd: *[K14, M1L] 3 times, k15,

M1L; rep from * to end—366 sts.

Size Medium Only — Inc Rnd: [K9, M1L] 12 times, [k8,

M1L] 18 times, *k9, M1L; rep from * to end—402 sts.

All Sizes — Knit 7 (8, 8, 9, 10 10) rnds.

Sizes Large and 2X-Large Only — Inc Rnd: [K– (–, –, 24, –, 16), M1L) – (–,

–, 3, –, 5) times, k– (–, –, 23, –, 15), M1L] – (–, –, 12, –, 20) times, *k– (–, –, 24, –, 16), M1L; rep from * to end— – (–, –, 438, –, 490) sts.

Size X-Large Only — Inc Rnd: *K20, M1L; rep from * to

end—462 sts.

All Sizes — Work in St st (knit every rnd) until

piece measures 71/4 (73/4, 81/4, 83/4, 91/4, 93/4)" [18.5 (19.5, 21, 22, 23.5, 25) cm] from center front.

SHApe loweR bAck Yoke — Short Row 1 (RS): K124 (131, 144, 157,

166, 174), turn. — Short Row 2 (WS): DS, purl to beg-of-

rnd marker, sm, p124 (131, 144, 157, 166, 174), turn.





YOKEUsing smaller 16" long circular needle, CO 108 (108, 114, 120, 126, 126) sts using long-tail method. Join, being careful not to twist sts; pm for beg of rnd (marker is at center back) and work in the rnd as follows:

— Work in 1 × 1 Rib for 6 rnds. — Change to larger 16" long circular

needle. — Knit 1 rnd.

Note: Change to larger 32" (80 cm) long circular needle when necessary for number of sts on needle.


SHApe bAck neckNote: Back neck is shaped using German Short Rows (see Special Technique).

— Short Row 1 (RS): K40 (40, 42, 44, 46, 46), turn.

— Short Row 2 (WS): DS, purl to beg-of-rnd marker, sm, p40 (40, 42, 44, 46, 46), turn.







— Resume knitting in the rnd; knit 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) rnds, closing DSs as you come to them.


— Knit 1 rnd. — Eyelet Rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from * to

end. — Knit 5 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) rnds.

Sizes Small, Medium, Large, and X-Large Only

— Inc Rnd: *K– (18, 19, 20, 21, –), M1L; rep from * to end— – (190, 200, 210, 220, –) sts.

Size 2X-Large Only — Inc Rnd: *K10, M1L, k11, M1L; rep

from * to end—230 sts.

All Sizes — Knit 0 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) rnds. — Inc Rnd: *K5, M1L; rep from * to

end—216 (228, 240, 252, 264, 276) sts.

24 | | 25

— Resume knitting in the rnd; knit 1 rnd, closing DSs as you come to them.

divide foR SleeveS And bodY

— Dividing Rnd: Remove marker, k54 (59, 64, 69, 73, 78), place next 64 (66, 74, 82, 86, 90) sts on waste yarn for right sleeve, using backwards loop method, CO 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts for underarm, pm for new beg of rnd, CO 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts for underarm, k107 (117, 127, 137, 145, 155), place next 64 (66, 74, 82, 86, 90) sts on waste yarn for left sleeve, using backwards loop method, CO 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 18) sts for underarm, knit to end—234 (258, 282, 302, 322, 346) sts.

— Continue in St st until piece meas-ures 12" (30.5 cm), or to 31/4" (8.5 cm) less than desired length from underarm.

— Eyelet Rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from * to end.

— Continue in St st until piece meas-ures 123/4" (32.5 cm), or to 21/2" (6.5 cm) less than desired length from underarm.

— Change to smaller 32" (80 cm) long circular needle.

— Work in 1 × 1 Rib until piece meas-ures 151/4" (38.5 cm), or to desired length from underarm.


SLEEVESUsing larger dpns, and beg at center underarm, pick up and knit 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts from CO underarm sts, knit across sts from waste yarn, pick up and knit 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts from CO underarm sts—74 (78, 88, 96, 102, 108) sts.

Note: To avoid holes at each edge of the underarm CO, you may want to pick up 1 less st on each side of CO sts, then work a M1L or M1R increase at each of these points on the first rnd following pick-up.

Pm for beg of rnd and work in the rnd as follows:

— Work in St st until piece measures 3 (3, 3, 2, 11/2, 21/2)" [7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 5, 4, 6.5) cm] from underarm.

SHApe Sleeve — Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts,

ssk, k1—2 sts dec. — Rep Dec Rnd every 16 (12, 8, 7, 6,

5) rnds 6 (8, 12, 15, 18, 20) more times—60 (60, 62, 64, 64, 66) sts.

— Continue in St st until piece measures 143/4" (37.5 cm), or to 31/4" (8.5 cm) less than desired length from underarm.

— Eyelet Rnd: *K2tog, yo; rep from * to end.

— Continue in St st until piece measures 151/2" (39.5 cm), or to 21/2" (6 cm) less than desired length from underarm.

— Change to smaller dpns. — Work in 1 × 1 Rib until piece

measures 18" (45.5 cm), or to desired length from underarm.


finiSHingWeave in ends; block as desired.

26 | | 27

DOWNTOWNOMAHA

As young girls in the ’70s, my friend Laurie Beber and I dreamt of going downtown on our own, expecting to find bright lights and sophisticated fun.

When we finally got permission to take the bus there, the department stores and lunch counters that once seemed so glamorous to us were gone or fading fast, in favor of the new shopping malls a few miles to the west. But there was still a movie theatre, the Astro, where Laurie and I saw movies like Pink Floyd (which we didn’t like, as it was loud and the boys in the band didn’t seem nice), and one with Robby Benson (which we did like, because, well, Robby Benson). There was still a Woolworth’s, which stocked Harlequin Romances, our secret indulgence. We’d get a piece of fried chicken from under the heat lamps there, and sometimes browse a tacky gift shop, where I once bought a set of notecards that were die-cut in the shape of hot pants. Then we’d get back on the bus for the lurching, diesel-scented ride home, our noses deep in our Harlequins the whole way.

—Kay

28 | | 29

X-FACTORCOWLS

While deciding on the projects for this Field Guide, we asked Isabell if she had a quick project for us, something that was as recognizably

“Isabell” as her sweaters, but required a smaller time commit-ment. Well, she said, one time she had made two very simple cowls to wear together to stay warm in her studio. Although others were intrigued by them, she always thought they were so easy to make that anyone could just copy them without a pattern.

A pattern so easy that it doesn’t need a pattern? That’s our favorite kind of pattern! But we usually find that no matter how simple a project, we still have questions. A knitter wants to know how many stitches to cast on, in what yarn, how to finish it, and—especially in the case of Isabell’s creations—how to wear it. So, here you go, Isabell’s behind-the-scenes secrets.

30 | | 31

kniTTed meASuRemenTSCircumference: 221/2 (241/4)" [57 (61.5) cm]

Length: 12 (91/2)" [30.5 (24 cm)]

SizeS1 (2)

mATeRiAlS — Kingston by Jill Draper [4 oz (113 g)

skeins, each approx 270 yds (247 m),

100% targhee wool]: 1 skein Abeel,

Elmendorf, Flatbush, Forsyth, Gage,

Hasbrouck, Rondout, or Wiltwyck

— Size US 6 (4 mm) needles, or size

needed to achieve gauge

— Crochet hook size US G-6 (4 mm) or

7 (4.5 mm)

gAuge20 sts and 34 rows = 4" (10 cm) over

Double Garter stitch

STiTcH pATTeRnDouble Garter Stitch (any number of sts)

— Row 1 (RS): Knit.

— Row 2: Knit.

— Row 3: Purl.

— Row 4: P5, yo, p2tog, purl to end.

— Rows 5–7: Rep Rows 1–3.

— Row 8: Purl.

— Rep Rows 1–8

SpeciAl TecHniQueSProvisional CO: (Crochet onto Needle)

Make a slip knot with waste yarn and place

it on crochet hook. Hold spare needle in

left hand, pointing up, and crochet hook in

right hand; hold both ends of yarn behind

needle with left hand, with working end of

yarn over index finger. *Take crochet hook

across front of needle, go under working

end of waste yarn from left to right, catch

yarn, and draw it through loop on crochet

hook to create 1 stitch on needle; take

working end of yarn over tip of needle to

back again. Repeat from * until you have

cast on required number of stitches onto

needle. Work a few crochet chain stitches

to indicate which end of cast-on to undo

to unravel it, then cut yarn and draw tail

through loop on crochet hook to fasten off.

When ready to work live sts, unravel cast

on, beginning with crochet chain end,

and unzip chain, placing live sts on a

spare needle as you unzip them.

Kitchener Stitch: Thread tail onto blunt

tapestry needle. Hold needles with live

stitches to be joined parallel in left hand,

with WSs together, both needle tips

pointing to right; tail will be coming from

back needle.

Working from right to left:

— insert tapestry needle into first

stitch on front needle purlwise, pull

yarn through, leave stitch on needle.


stitch on back needle knitwise, pull


— *insert tapestry needle into first

stitch on front needle knitwise, pull

yarn through, remove stitch from

needle.

— insert tapestry needle into next

stitch on front needle purlwise, pull



stitch on back needle purlwise, pull

yarn through, remove stitch from

needle.

— insert tapestry needle into next

stitch on back needle knitwise, pull


— Repeat from *, working 3 or 4

stitches at a time, adjusting stitch

tension to match pieces being

joined.

— When 1 stitch remains on each

needle, cut yarn and pass through

last 2 stitches to fasten off.

Twisted Cord: Cut one strand six times

desired length. Fold strand in half and

secure one end to stationary object.

Twist from other end until it begins to

buckle. Fold twisted length in half and

holding ends together, allow it to twist up

on itself. Tie cut end in overhand knot.

noTeSCowl is worked lengthwise, beginning

with a provisional cast on, then both ends

are grafted together using Kitchener

stitch. A twisted cord is worked and

threaded through eyelet rows.

COWL — Using crochet hook, waste yarn, and

provisional CO, CO 60 (48) sts. — Change to working yarn and

needles, if desired placing marker on front of first row to indicate RS.

— Work Rows 1–8 of Double Garter Stitch 23 (25) times, then work Rows 1–7 once.

— Cut yarn, leaving tail 4 times width of piece. Unpick provisional CO; graft ends together using Kitchener st.

finiSHingWeave in ends; block as desired. Work a 50" (127 cm) long or longer twisted cord and lace through eyelets.

32 | | 33

In middle age (humor me, please), something has hap-pened. A change has come over me (not that one). I find myself, a lifelong trinket-eschewer, exploring the fun of

self-embellishment. I’m enjoying a bit of primping, a little something sparkly now and then. Good lord, I’ve even started getting my eyebrows done. After an adulthood spent aspiring to a certain severity of style, in recent years I’ve acquired some baubles. I may even move on to bibelots.

I didn’t set out to do it, but it happened. The camel got its nose under the tent, and it was wearing a nose ring. Exhibit A: a long, clustered necklace from Alabama Chanin. I saw it at a trunk show, where it didn’t strike me as jewelry, but as a textile. What looked like beads were tight knots of indigo-dyed cotton jersey cord. Looped twice around the neck, it was practically a scarf. I was beguiled by it and bought it.

The first few times I wore the necklace, I felt self-conscious. I kept thinking of my childhood observation that the jewelry old ladies wore seemed to grow in size with each passing year, wondering whether maybe I was at the point of losing my sense of scale with these big cotton knots. But people kept noticing this unusual necklace, and complimenting it, and saying things like, “It’s so you!”

It is so me. Especially in summer, when a woolly scarf is out of the question, I reach for The Necklace. Festooning my collar-bone now seems like a natural gesture. What’s next? A brooch?

—Kay

EXHIBIT A

34 | | 35

TWO KNITTERS, ONE CITY

ONE CITY

In the 1980s, right out of college, we both moved to New York—Ann from Nashville, Kay from Omaha—and we both lived downtown. Book publishing was the lure for Ann, law school for Kay. How is it that our paths never crossed? Maybe they did, and we never even knew it.

fiRST ApARTmenT SizeAnn: 450 square feet.Kay: 600 square feet, airshaft view.

fiRST job Ann: Editorial Assistant.Kay: Junior associate at a Wall Street law firm.

SAlARYAnn: $12,500.Kay: A lot—because, apparently, I had sold my soul—but not enough given my law school debt.

Time befoRe beginning new job SeARcHAnn: 3 weeks.Kay: 3 years; I accepted my fate.

bReAkfAST oRdeR, AS Sung bY counTeR peRSon, wHen You enTeRed deliAnn: “Coffee regular corn muffy wi buttah.”Kay: “Peanut buttah!” (bagel was implied).

HAppieST momenT of woRk dAYAnn: It was all downhill after corn muffy wi buttah.Kay: Eating peanut butter bagel.

ReebokS wiTH pAnTY-HoSe foR commuTeAnn: Definitely.Kay: Hello? How is that even a question? Black only.

wAlkmAn coloR: Yellow (THe SpoRTS one) oR blAck (STAndARd)Ann: Silver, superfancy because it had Auto Rewind, which was a brand new feature when I got it.Kay: Yellow.

noTAble neigHboRAnn: Amateur soprano who sang “Queen of the Night” from The Magic Flute every night.Kay: The apron-clad lady with the nice curtains and window cats, who tutted about “you girls.”

cARbS AS peRcenTAge of ToTAl dieTAnn: 80% sesame noodles, 20% fried pork dumplings.Kay: Sesame noodles + pierogis = 110%

fAvoRiTe downTown ReSTAuRAnT THAT STill exiSTS TodAY Ann: John’s Pizzeria on Bleecker.Kay: Veselka on 2nd Ave.

TimeS You SHouTed “Hi plAcido” AT An opeRA STAR becAuSe, AfTeR Two mARgARiTAS, You THougHT You knew Him Ann: 0Kay: I decline to answer on the grounds that it was me.

TimeS You dRopped An HoRS d’oeuvRe on elie wieSel’S fooTAnn: 1Kay: 0

moST common nigHT-Time AcTiviTYAnn: Reading terrible manuscripts.Kay: Ordering dinner at my desk; crying; checking citations.

fAvoRiTe locAl YARn SToReAnn: Second-floor shop in Garment District, where they sold yarn on cones from designers like Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren.Kay: Second-floor shop near Morgan Library, with Rowan to the rafters.

beneTTon oR eSpRiT SAleAnn: Esprit, duh! Benetton was way too sophisticated.Kay: Benetton.

Statistics on Our Downtown Days

36 | | 37

GETTING TO KNOW DESIGNER ISABELL KRAEMER

Isabell Kraemer is an independent designer celebrated by knitters for her cool, modern, and comfortable sweaters and accessories. She keeps a low pro-file—a Ravelry page but no website—but reaches knitters around the world by publishing her patterns in multiple languages, including English, German, French, Italian, Russian, Danish, and Spanish. She resides in a small town in southern Germany but enjoys traveling far and wide to teach and for pleasure.

What are your favorite places to visit? I have never visited a city I didn’t like—they all have their own special beauty and vibe. I fell in love with New York for its architecture—there is something to see around every corner—and for its everything-is-possible attitude; Prague for its moodier, more ruinous, unpolished aura; Cairo for its enthralling bustle; San Francisco for the spirit of freedom around every corner. But, as much as I appreciate these concrete jungles, I am always happy to return to my beautiful and quiet little town.

How did you develop your personal style?I don’t know where my style came from, but even as a kid I dressed a little different. My mom loves to tell the story of the day I wanted to wear orange, red, and purple checkered pants with a green pullover and a blue raincoat with yellow ducks on it. As a young adult, I was often ahead of trends. I remember wearing big fake fur boots in the mid-1990s before they were in style—and getting a lot of strange looks from my neighbors and everyone else in my town. After high school, I studied couture dress-making for three years. When I realized I didn’t have to let the fashion world dictate what I wore, I felt like I was set free. In general, I think as long as we feel good in our clothing, we’re doing great.

What are some of the key elements that make a knitted sweater or acces-sory feel modern to you?This is a hard question to answer because it’s always changing. Sometimes it’s a super-long sleeve with a comparatively short overall body length or the relation of the fit of a sleeve (tight) and the fit of the body (oversized). Sometimes it’s the length of the ribbing on the body or an unexpected combination of yarn and

stitch pattern. For example, the rustic yarn I matched with a lace pattern for the Bottom Line Pullover (see page 16).

What was the original inspiration for the X-Factor Cowls on page 28?I knitted them around 2008 when I was just getting back into knitting and my skills were still basic. I needed something to keep my neck warm, and I wanted it to be cool, unique, and handmade. A few of my sister’s friends saw me wearing them and asked me to knit some for them, so they were my first source of knitting income. They are easy to wear and combine. The drawstring is there to “close” them when it is really cold and/or to make a super slouchy hat out of them.

What do you like best about your career as an independent knitwear designer?I love working with my hands, and I love trying out new things, especially yarns and stitch patterns. I feel blessed to be able to make a living doing something I love and to be able to inspire and meet knitters along the way. And I love that I can make my own hours (I am not an early bird!).

38 | | 39

ABBREVIATIONS

Approx: ApproximatelyBeg: Begin(ning)(s)BO: Bind offCO: Cast onDec: Decreas(ed)(es)(ing)Dpn: Double-pointed needle(s)Inc: Increas(ed)(es)(ing)K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together. One stitch has been decreased.K: KnitM1L: (make 1 left) Insert left needle from front to back under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Knit this strand through the back loop. One stitch has been increased.M1PL: (make 1 purlwise, left) Insert left needle from front to back under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Purl this strand through the back loop. One stitch has been increased.

M1R: (make 1 right) Insert left needle from back to front under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Knit this strand through the front loop. One stitch has been increased.P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together. One stitch has been decreased.P: PurlPm: Place markerRep: Repeat(ed)(ing)(s)Rnd(s): Round(s)RS: Right sideSm: Slip markerSsk: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip 1 stitch purlwise, insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together from this position. One stitch has been decreased.St st: stockinette stitchSt(s): Stitch(es)Tog: TogetherWS: Wrong side

40 |

OUR MISSION

Mason-Dixon Knitting serves knitters by creating an ever-evolving world online and in real life where knitting is celebrated, explored, and taught. It is a place of rich community, creativity, curiosity, and humor—the ultimate rabbit hole for knitters.

Please visit us online where you will surely find stories, inspiration, a laugh, and great conversations in The Lounge, our forum. And you can shop. We bring in only the yarns we want to knit with, the patterns we want to explore. While supplies last, you’ll definitely find the yarn for all the projects in this MDK Field Guide.

Mason-Dixon Knitting Field Guide No. 10

Copyright © 2019 by Modern Knitting Media, llc

Photographs copyright © 2019 Sara Remington

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. For information, write to us at [email protected].

The purchase of this book allows you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes. Items produced using the directions in this book are not licensed to be sold for profit.

editor/creative director: Melanie Falickgraphic designer: Will Bradyphotographer: Sara Remingtonphotostylist: Alessandra Mortolatechnical editor: Sue McCainsample knitters: Susan Mitz, Francie Owens, Haley Parker, Nell Ziroli

Printed in Canada.

ISBN: 978-0-9977865-9-0

9 780997 786590

90000ISBN 978-0-9977865-9-0

Mason-Dixon Knitting Field Guides are little books that explore the big world of knitting, with patterns and stories to inspire the curious knitter.

FIELD GUIDE NO. 10 Designs by Isabell Kraemer

peTulA pulloveR

boTTom line pulloveR

x-fAcToR cowlS

Visit MasonDixonKnitting.com to be part of a vibrant online community— to laugh, to learn, to shop.

DOWNTOWN - Mason-Dixon Knitting · 2019-03-17 · MDK Color by Jill Draper Bottom Line Pullover...

Documents

Transcript of DOWNTOWN - Mason-Dixon Knitting · 2019-03-17 · MDK Color by Jill Draper Bottom Line Pullover...