Downside Abbey Country Life

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    Tere has cntly bn a vogu

    fo count-factual histoy, an

    intllctually igoous qustioning

    of what would hav happnd had

    cicumstancs bn dif fnt. If, fo xam-

    pl, th Luftwaff had dfatd th rAF in

    1940, would th magazin you a adingb in Gman? easi to answ is th qus-

    tion of what th english landscap would

    look lik if th dissolution of th monastis

    had nv happnd. If ny VIII had did

    in 1530, still maid to Cathin of Aagon,

    and had bn succdd pacfully by his

    daught, May, mo of ou countysid

    would smbl th Somst villag of

    Statton-on-th-Foss, south-wst of Bath,

    which is psidd ov by Downsid Abby.

    Th Bndictin Community of St Ggoy

    th Gat at Downsid, which ncompasss

    a famous public school as wll as a monas-

    ty, povids a complling imag of how

    monastic lif in england might hav con-

    tinud had ny VII I not so abuptly ndd

    it. Yt what w s dats no futh back than

    th 19th cntuy. Th magnificnc of th

    monastys buildings, spcially its gat

    Gothic chuch, mbodis th momnt whnth roman Catholic Chuch, aft th

    cntuis of posciption and discimina-

    tion, flt abl fo th fist tim to asst its

    idntity as Bitains histoic Chuch.

    Th Downsid community was foundd in

    1606 at Douai in what is now nothn Fanc.

    Most of its monks w english xils, and

    sval undtook dangous missionay wok

    in thi nativ countysix w matyd

    btwn 1608 and 1679. Fom aly on, th

    monasty povidd an ducation fo th

    sons of english cusant familis. A cucial

    vnt fo th monks pcption of thi ightful

    ol in english lif occud in 1607, whn

    Dom Sigbt Buckly who was pofssd

    as a monk duing th ign of May I in th

    bif vival of th Bndictin community at

    Wstminst Abby, gav th monastic habit

    to two pists who joind th Douai commu-

    nity, thus handing onto it th ancint ightsand pivilgs of th english Bndictins.

    In 1795, th tid of histoy was vsd. As

    th Fnch volutionay amis dvastatd

    euopan monastic lif, th Douai community

    fld to england. aving bn basd fo 20

    yas at Acton Bunll in Shopshi, it movd

    in 1814 into a small, aly-18th-cntuy hous,

    Handsomely doneDownside Abbey Church, Somerset

    Michael Hall describes the creation of a great Gothic church thatpersuasively suggests that the Reformation never happened

    Photographs by Paul Barker

    Fig 1 above: Downsides church from

    the south. The tower was finished in

    1938. Fig 2 facing page: The Lady

    Chapel, designed by Dunn & Hansom.

    Its furnishings are by Ninian Comper

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    Mount Plasantwhich still suvivsat

    Downsid, a hamlt on th dg of Statton-

    on-th-Foss. Although th pnal laws had

    falln into dsutud, english Catholics w

    still xcludd fom public lif, and so th Bn-

    dictin Od in england maind oganisdalong missionay lins. As a sult, as wll as

    continuing its school, Downsid xpctd

    most of its monks to wok in paishs acoss

    th county onc thy had bn pofssd.

    Fom 1829, with th Catholic rlif Act,

    lgal discimination against Catholics bgan

    to b dismantld, a chang that was cog-

    nisd by th papacy in 1850 with th sto-

    ation in england of th Catholic hiachy.

    In spons, th was a gowing dsi in th

    english Bndictin communitis to mov

    away fom thi missionay, paochial ol

    towads th nclosd, contmplativ lif

    consistnt thm thoughout th stoy of th

    nw chuch is achitctual ambition: th

    monks wantd a gat building and w

    ppad to wait ath than compomis thi

    idals. Th succssiv schmstwo by

    Pugin, dawn up in 1839 and 1841, and onby Chals ansom, in 1846poposd a nw

    monasty on th gandst possibl scal,

    but nothing was don fo lack of funds.

    Finally, in 1873, th foundation stons

    w laid at Downsid, fo th chuch, th

    monasty and th fctoy buildings that

    w to b shad by th school and com-

    munity. Accoding to tadition, Achbishop

    (lat Cadinal) Manning, who laid th

    chuchs foundation ston, askd th pio,

    Dom Aidan Gasqut: A you building

    a monasty o a town? Th dsigns w

    a roman Catholic patnship, Achibald

    nvisagd by th rul of St Bndict. Th

    monks of Downsid took a lading pat in this

    chang, which vntually sultd in Lo XIIIs

    bullDiu Quidem of 1899, instucting th

    english Bndictins to vis thi consti-

    tutions on taditional monastic lins. In thsam ya, th Pop aisd th th piois

    of english monks at Downsid, Amplfoth

    and Douai to th status of abbys.

    Cntal to this nw idal at Downsid was

    th building of an abby chuch, which, six

    tims a day, was to b th stting fo th

    pays of th community, th opus dei that

    St Bndict had stssd lay at th hat of

    his rul. Downsid alady had a chapl,

    dsignd in 1822 by th Bath achitct . e.

    Goodidg, but within a gnation, it had

    bcom too small fo th community (it still

    suvivs, but has bn gatly altd). On

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    Dunn and edwad ansom, Chalss son.

    Lgnd calls that Dunn saw that it was

    handsom, and ansom saw that it was don,

    which may indd b an accuat account

    of th way thy dividd thi sponsibilitis.

    Th complx stoy of thi dsigns fo thchuch at Downsid has bn unavlld by

    roy ODonnll. Dunn & ansoms oiginal

    poposal was basd on aly-13th-cntuy

    nothn english xmplas, most impot-

    antly th Cistcian monastis at Fountains

    and lswh, but Gasqut wantd som-

    thing mo opulnt. Th chuch that was

    bgun in 1880 was divd fom lat modls,

    most impotantly Wstminst Abby, that

    all-impotant link btwn th modn

    Bndictins and th mdival past. Wst-

    minst is a bui lding of vy dict Fnch

    inspiation, and Dunn & ansoms dsign

    has stuck most popl as stongly Fanco-

    phil, spcially in its tall, naow po-

    potions and fiv-sidd aps, suoundd

    by an ambulatoy and adial chapls.

    Th fist pat to b compltd was th

    cossing and tanspts, which w opnd

    fo woship in 1882. Th communitys

    ambition is vidnt in th gat sca l of th

    tansptit is 68ft high intnallyits ichly

    modlld lvations, which incopoata gat dal of sculptu (by A lfd Wall of

    Chltnham), and by th dcision to ct

    a mighty tow (Fig 1) on axis with th

    south tanspt, spaatd fom it by th

    cloist (Fig 5). By 1884, th tow had

    isn to 132ft, and was still not complt,

    as a stpl was intndd. Funds w not

    yt sufficint to allow th choi to b bgun,

    and so, as mo altas w ndd, it was

    dcidd to build th astn chapls. Poly-

    gonal in plan, thy flank a th-bay apsd

    Lady Chapl, aisd ov a cypt, which

    pojcts fom th ast nd of th chuch.

    By th tim th Lady Chapl was opnd

    in July 1888, th communitys achitctual

    tast was shifting. Dunn & ansoms dsign

    was old-fashiond vn bfo it was bgun,

    as in th Anglican Chuch, th Gothic vival

    had movd away fom 13th-cntuy modls,

    whth english o Fnch, towads lat,

    mo distinctivly english, Dcoatd and

    Ppndicula styls. edmund Fod, who

    was pio in 188588, bgan th pocssof aligning th chuchs styl by having

    Dunn & ansom cast thi dsign fo th

    two astn chapls that w thn und way,

    thos of St Bndict and St Isido. As built,

    thy a unmistakably english in appaanc,

    thanks to thi Ppndicula styl and th

    staight ast nds that english mdival

    achitcts almost always pfd to apss

    (pobably bcaus thy showd off th nativ

    lov of laboat window tacy so wll).

    In 1894, Fod tund to Downsid,

    initially as pio onc mo, and thn, fom

    1899, as th fist abbot. continud th

    Fig 3 left: The sacristy, designed by F. A. Walters and completed in 1915. Fig 4 above:

    The view from Giles Gilbert Scotts nave into the choir designed by Thomas Garner

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    anglicisation of th chuch by appointing

    Ninian Comp to dcoat and funish th

    Lady Chapl in 1894(Fig 2). Comp basd

    his dsign on his scholaly study of th

    chancl aangmnts of english mdival

    chuchs. Th alta, nclosd by cutainssuppotd by fou iddl posts, is st against

    a wall that squas off Dunn & ansoms aps;

    it has a low, cavd dos of paintd and

    gildd alabast basd on 15th-cntuy modls.

    Comp wokd on th chapl fo many yas

    (th glazing was not compltd until 1927),

    and th sulting nsmbl is on of th

    most bautiful, and bst psvd, xps-

    sions of his english, lat-Gothic idal.

    In 1895, Fod was facd with a difficult

    poblm. Just as th mony to mbak on

    th choi had bn aisd, Dunn & ansom

    signd as th chuchs achitcts, bcaus

    of ansoms ill halth. Th was no obvious

    succsso, as englands lading roman

    Catholic achitct, J. F. Bntly, was too busy

    with Wstminst Cathdal. Thn, in 1896,

    Lo XIII issud his bullApostolicae Curae,

    which dclad that Anglican ods w

    invalid, stiking at th notion that th Chuch

    of england was pat of th univsal Catholic

    Chuch. As a sult, th achitct Thomas

    Gan convtd to roman Catholicism and

    ndd his patnship with G. F. Bodly, whoas fa back as th 1860s had ld th Gothic

    vival in th diction of lat english

    mdival modls. Gan was pfctly

    qualifid fo th challnging task of inst-

    ing th choi into th spac btwn Dunn

    & ansoms tanspts and astn chapls.

    Th tchnical d ifficultis w compoundd

    by Gan and Fods dcision to bak not

    only with th styl of Dunn & ansoms build-

    ing, but also with its plan. Gans choi

    (Fig 4), which voks english chuchs of

    about 1400, has a squa ast nd, with

    th gat achs, miniscnt of thos in

    th choi at Wlls Cathdal, and a tipa-tit ast window divd fom that at St

    Albans Cathdal, which in th Middl Ags

    had bn a Bndictin abby chuch.

    Although whn Gan did in 1906, having

    compltd th choi, th was no going back

    on th stylistic chang that h had mad,

    his dsigns fo th st of th chuch w

    not followd. This was patly fo asons of

    pacticalityfo xampl, his poposal fo

    th sacisty was too small and was placd

    by a Ppndicula dsign by F. A. Walts

    (Fig 3). Thn, in 1917, th community com-

    missiond Gils Gilbt Scott, dsign of

    Livpools Anglican cathdal (wh th

    choic of a roman Catholic achitct had

    bn contovsial) to bui ld th nav. Thy

    assumd that h would follow Gans intn-

    tions, but Scott thought that was a dull ida

    and poposd instad a dsign of his own.Th sult, opnd in 1925, is a subtl

    finmnt and simplification of th dsign

    of th on nav bay built by Dunn & ansom

    to povid abutmnt fo thi cossing. This

    was not all that Scott did at Downsid: h com-

    pltd to his own dsign Dunn & ansoms

    tow (without a stpl), ovsaw th con-

    stuction of th choi stalls, which w

    copid, at th monks qust, fom thos at

    Chst Cathdal, and dsignd th sanctu-

    ay aangmnts, lft unsolvd at Gans

    dath. Scott also dsignd a splndid tomb

    fo Cadinal Gasqut, th monastys fom

    pio, who had bgun th building of th chuch,half a cntuy bfo. This bought th stoy

    in a full ciclo almost. Th nav now con-

    sists of svn bays, but Scott intndd two

    mo, which xplains th last satisfactoy

    aspct of th building, th navs tmpoay

    wst font. Might th abby, which in 2014

    clbats th 200th annivsay of its aival

    at Downsid, choos to mak th occasion

    by complting this gat bui lding?

    Downside Abbey: An Architectural

    History, edited by Dom Aidan Bellenger,

    with photographs by Paul Barker, will

    be published by Merrell in October

    Fig 5: Benedictine monks process from the monastery along Dunn & Hansoms linking cloister towards the church

    The monks ambition

    is evident in the greatscale of the transept

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