DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS Heirloom … · DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS ......

12
http://www.woodonline.com DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS ® Page 1 of 12 DP-00190 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002 Heirloom Hope Chest Looking for a handsome, functional project that won’t overtax your woodworking skills? Here’s one, and it makes a wonderful storage or hope chest. You’ll find the construction of this piece strictly straightforward, with groove-and-tenon joints you cut with only a tablesaw. Blankets, toys, or family keepsakes will never have a more beautiful home.

Transcript of DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS Heirloom … · DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS ......

Page 1: DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS Heirloom … · DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS ... Looking for a handsome, functional project that wonÕt overtax your woodworking skills?

http://www.woodonline.com

DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®

Page 1 of 12DP-00190 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

Heirloom Hope Chest

Looking for a handsome, functional projectthat won’t overtax your woodworking skills?Here’s one, and it makes a wonderful storageor hope chest. You’ll find the construction ofthis piece strictly straightforward, withgroove-and-tenon joints you cut with only atablesaw. Blankets, toys, or family keepsakeswill never have a more beautiful home.

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Page 3 of 12

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1‡"1‡"

20fi"

A

Width of groovesmust match widthof laminated panels.

›"

3"

›"

L

Paper pattern and ‹" hardboardtemplate for marking the leg profile

L

Start with the carcase partsand top cleatsNote: For the best fitting joints,surface-plane at the same time allmaterials that require the samefinished thickness.1 From 8/4 walnut, cut the legs (A)to the size listed in the MaterialsList and set aside. You also canmake the legs by laminating three‡"-thick boards and surface-plan-ing to the listed dimensions.2 From 5/4 walnut, planed to 1"thick, cut the side top rails (B), sidebottom rails (C), stiles (D),front/back top rails (E), front/backbottom rails (F), front/back cleats(G), side cleats (H), and top cleats(I) to the sizes listed.3 Cut a ›" notch in both ends ofthe side cleats (H), where shownon Drawing 1a.4 Lay out and cut a ‡" radius onthe ends of the top cleats (I), whereshown on Drawing 1. Then rout a¤" round-over on the outer edgesof the cleats.5 To form the fi"-thick side panels(J) and front/back panels (K), firstcut ‹"-thick cherry plywood to thesizes listed. (You’ll need to doublethe quantity in the Materials List.)For the best appearance, cut thepanels so that the veneer lamina-tion line will be in the center ofeach panel, where shown onDrawing 1. Determine whichpanels—when placed side byside—offer the best overall look,and which can be joined back toback. You’ll want the best face ofeach panel facing the outside of thechest. Then, glue and clamp thepanel sets back to back.

Machine the details on the carcase parts1 To cut the grooves in the legs (A)to receive the side panels (J),front/back panels (K), and thetenons of the rails, install a ›"dado blade in your tablesaw.Adjust it to cut Î" deeper than the›" depth shown on Drawing 2 toallow for glue squeeze-out and toensure that the rail tenons do not

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Page 4 of 12

Drawing 2LEG

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C

D

EB

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BE

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4"

15‹" for part39‹" for part F

C

,

,

Tenon widthmust matchthickness oflaminated panels.

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bottom out in the grooves. Using ascrap the same thickness as thelegs for a test cut, position yourtablesaw fence so that the dadoblade will cut a groove that is justshy of being centered in the scrap.Make the cut, turn the piecearound, and make another cut towiden the groove. Test-fit a panelin the groove. Adjust the fenceand repeat the test cut, as neces-sary, until the panel fits in thegroove. Then, cut the two groovesin each leg.2 To cut the grooves in the sidetop rails (B), side bottom rails (C),

stiles (D), front/back top rails (E),and front/back bottom rails (F),where shown on Drawing 3, toreceive the panels and stiletenons, follow the same processthat you used for adjusting thefence position for the legs (A)except use a scrap that is the samethickness as the rails for your testpiece. Then, cut the grooves in therails, where shown.3 Now, to form the ›"-long tenonson the ends of the rails (B, C, E, F)and stiles (D), where shown onDrawing 3, begin by attaching anauxiliary fence to your tablesaw

miter gauge to avoid chip-out, andalso attach a stopblock to thefence. Adjust the height of your›" dado blade to ‹" and set thestopblock ›" from the side of theblade, as shown in Photo A.Using a scrap that is the samethickness as the rails and stiles,cut one end of the piece, turn itover, and cut it again to form atenon. Test-fit the tenon in the leggroove. Adjust the blade heightand test-cut, as necessary, untilyou get the proper fit of the tenon.Then, cut the tenons on the endsof all of the rails.

Drawing 3GROOVE-AND-TENONJOINERY

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4 Lay out the arch in the side bot-tom rails (C) and front/back bot-tom rails (F), where shown onDrawings 4 and 5. Refer to theShop Tip, An easy way to layout smooth arches, on page 8.Now, bandsaw the arches and sandto remove saw marks.

Complete the legs1 Cut the filler strips (L), whichfill the bottom of the grooves in thelegs (A). Cut the strips slightlyproud of ›" thick.2 Glue and clamp the fillerstrips (L) in the legs (A), whereshown on Drawing 2. Whenthe glue is dry, sand the stripsflush with the legs.3 To cut the curves in the bottomof the legs (A), first make a photo-copy of the leg full-size pattern onpage 12. Then, using spray adhe-sive, adhere the pattern to a pieceof ‹" hardboard to make a tem-plate. Cut and sand the hardboardto the pattern line.4 Using the template, lay out thecurves on each leg (the curves areon the two sides with the grooves).Bandsaw and sand the curves tothe layout lines.

5 Chuck a ¤" round-over bit inyour router, and rout the threeouter edges and all bottom edges ofthe legs (A), where shown onDrawing 4.

Let the assembly begin1 To form each side of the chest,first dry-assemble the legs (A), sidetop rails (B), side bottom rails (C),stiles (D), and side panels (J). SeeDrawing 4. Check for correct fitand for square. Then, glue up andclamp each side-panel assembly.2 To form the front and back panelassemblies, dry-assemble the stiles(D), the front/back top rails (E), thefront/back bottom rails (F), andfront/back panels (K). SeeDrawing 5. To keep the stilesevenly spaced, use masking tape tomark their locations on the face ofthe rails. Check for square; then,glue up and clamp.3 Unclamp and sand all the panelassemblies. Then, place eachassembly outside face down and,referencing Drawings 1 and 6,measure 1‡" down from the topedge of the side bottom rails (C)and front/back bottom rails (F) forthe location of the top edge of the

side cleats (H) and front/back cleats(G). Because the front/back cleats(G) fit between the side cleats (H)when the panel assemblies arejoined together, you must centerthe front/back cleats (G) on therails, where shown in the drawings.4 With the cleats correctly posi-tioned on the rails, drill pilot andcountersunk shank holes throughthe cleats into the rails, whereshown on Drawings 1 and 6.Then, attach the cleats to the railswith glue and #8×1fi" flatheadwood screws.5 On a flat surface, glue andclamp the end-panel assembliesto the front- and back-panelassemblies to form the chest.Check for square.6 From ‡" cherry plywood, cut thebottom (M) to the size listed. Thenform the ›" notch in the corners,where shown on Drawing 1b.7 Place the bottom (M) on thecleats and drill pilot and counter-sunk shank holes through thecleats into the bottom, whereshown on Drawings 1 and 6.Attach the bottom to the cleatswith #8×1fi" flathead woodscrews.

Now add the trim1 From ‡"-thick walnut, cut thefront/back top trim (N) and side toptrim (O) to the sizes listed exceptmake the lengths 1" longer to allowfor the ends to be miter-cut later.2 Chuck a ‹" cove bit in yourtable-mounted router and rout a ‹"cove along the outer bottom edgeof all of the trim pieces, whereshown on Drawings 1 and 6a.Switch to a ¤" round-over bit androut the top outer edge of all of thepieces.3 Miter-cut all of the trim pieces tothe finished length. Then, positionthe front/back top trim (N) and sidetop trim (O) on the chest, whereshown on Drawing 1, so that theouter edge of the trim overhangsthe legs (A) by ›", where shownon Drawing 6a. Glue and clampthe trim in place.

Cut the tenons on the rails and stiles using a stopblock, as shown, toensure a consistent tenon length.

A

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Page 7 of 12

20fi"

C

D

B

A

A

15‹"

2fi"

6Ø"

11Í"

4"

3"

15‹"

2‹"

¤" round-overs

12"

¤" round-oversalong all bottom edges

Panels are laminatedfrom two thicknessesof ‹" plywood.

Good sidesfacing out

J

J

No round-over

Veneer lamination line centeredon outside face of each panel

L

Drawing 4SIDE PANEL(outside face shown)

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D

E39‹"

2‹"

8Á"

11Í"

4"

3"

39‹"

12"

2fi"

K

D

DF

›"

›"

Panels are laminatedfrom two thicknesses of‹" plywood.

Good sides facing out

Veneer lamination linecentered on outsideface of each panel

K

K

K

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An easy way to lay out smooth archesMark arches of nearly any length or curvatureusing this simple method. Clamp three stop-blocks to the workpiece, two at the ends of thearch and one at its middle (this block should cometo a point) as shown. Rip a ¤"-thick fairing stripof wood, position it between the blocks, and markthe arch.

SHOP TIP

Drawing 5FRONT AND BACK PANEL(outside face shown)

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Page 9 of 12

4 Drill pilot and countersunkshank holes through thefront/back and side trim into therails, where shown on Drawing1, and drive the #8×1fi" brassflathead wood screws.

Time to top it off1 Cut enough ‡"-thick random-width walnut boards for the top(P). Cut the boards so that whenplaced edge to edge they exceedthe top’s finished width and lengthby 1".2 Joint the edges of the boards;then glue and clamp them to formthe top, keeping it as flat as possi-ble. Remove any squeeze-out.When the glue is dry, cut the top(P) to the size listed.3 Set up your router with a fi"round-over bit, and rout theperimeter of the top (P) on its bot-tom side, where shown onDrawings 1 and 6a. Switch to an¤" round-over bit, and rout theperimeter of the top on its faceside, where shown. Sand smooth.4 Position the cleats (I) on the bot-tom face of the top (P), whereshown on Drawing 1, and drillpilot and countersunk shank holesthrough the cleats into the top for#8×1fi" flathead wood screws.Remove the cleats.5 To allow for expansion and con-traction of the top, drill a ›" coun-terbore fl" deep in the bottom ofthe cleats in the two outer screwholes (see the Shop Tip, page10). Now, screw (no glue) thecleats to the top.

Attach the lid to the chest1 To locate the positions for theno-mortise hinges, first make thehinge locating jig, shown onDrawing 7. With the top (P) facedown, position the jig on the backedge of the top (as viewed from theback) flush with its right end. Placea hinge in the opening in the centerof the jig with the barrel up (tokeep the hinge flat for marking)and against the jig. Mark the loca-

D

B

A A

J

N

#8 x 1fi" F.H.wood screw

20fi"

2‹"

1‡"

G

HM

K K

FF

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P

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O

J

G

#6 x fl" F.H.wood screw

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C

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fl" ¤" round-overs

E

PN

Drawing 6SIDE SECTION VIEW

Drawing 6a LID SECTION VIEW

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Page 10 of 12

tions for the hinge screws in thesmall leaf part of the hinge. Now,move the jig and hinge to the leftend of the top, flush with the edgeof the top, and again mark thescrew hole locations in the hinge.Drill pilot holes in the markedlocations, and attach the hinges tothe top with #5×fl" flatheadwood screws.2 To locate the hinge positions onthe back top trim (N) of the chest,see Photo B for set-up. With thetop (P) positioned as shown andthe top centered end-to-end with

the chest, mark the screw locationson the trim. Attach the hinges tothe trim with #5×fl" flathead woodscrews in pilot holes.3 To install the flap stay, cut thefiller block (Q) (or two blocks ifyou want to install a second flapstay) from fi"- thick walnut to thesize listed. (We installed one flapstay and found this to be adequate.However, if you prefer additionalresistance to lid closure for safetyreasons, install the additional flapstay.) Glue and clamp the block tothe side top rail (B), where shown

To locate the hinge positions on the back top trim (N), set thechest on 1fi"-high support blocks (we used 2x4s). Position the top(P) as shown.

B

on Drawing 6. When the glue isdry, secure the block by driving ascrew in the center into a pilothole. Attach the flap stay to theblock and to the top (P), whereshown, by driving screws intopilot holes.

Sand and finish it up1 Remove the flap stay and hinges.Finish-sand the entire chest with220-grit sandpaper.2 Apply a clear finish of yourchoice, sanding between coats andremoving dust with a tack cloth.We suggest using a penetrating oil,such as Watco Danish Oil, for thechest portion to highlight the grainand enhance the colors of thewoods. For the top, we recommenda Zar polyurethane finish to pro-vide more durable protection forthis piece. Because multiple coatsof satin polyurethane have a poten-tial to cloud the finish, we recom-mend that you first apply two coatsof high-gloss polyurethane fol-lowed by a final coat of satinpolyurethane. Sand and removedust between all coats.3 Install the hardware and start fill-ing the chest. ¿

Low-tech trick gives solid-woodpanels room to moveThere’s no getting around it: wood contracts andexpands with changes in seasonal humidity. If youdon’t allow for that movement, wide panels of solidwood will bow, cup, or split. So, when you screwcleats to solid panels, counterbore the screwholes in the cleat as shown. That allows the screwto move back and forth as the panel moves. Neverglue cleats to wide, solid-wood panels.

SHOP TIP

I

P

Produced by Marlen KemmetWritten by Owen DuvallProject design: Kent WalshGraphic Design: Jamie DowningIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna JohnsonPhotographs: Baldwin Photography; Douglas E. Smith©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2002

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P

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Page 11 of 12

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Page 12 of 12

The purchase of these plans does not transferany copyright or other ownership interest in theplans, the design, or the finished project to thebuyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plansfor sale nor offer for sale any copies of the fin-ished project.

fi‹ ‡

1"

SCALE

To ensure full-sized patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measure full-sized patterns to verify size.

A

20fi"

1‹"

3"

LEG(4 needed)

FULL-SIZE PATTERN