Walks on Doi Suthep and Doi Pui

Chiang Mai, Thailand.

3 Walks on Doi Suthep and Doi Pui, Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Brief descriptions and suggestions for walks on Doi Pui and Doi Suthep, readily accessible from Chiang Mai. Please use in conjunction with the freely downloadable maps map of Doi Pui and map of Huay Tung Taew region, and the map covering Wat Phalad, included here. These descriptions are mainly to aid finding the start and to suggest routes. Route descriptions are not comprehensive. Paths and tracks are generally good, but their proliferation can be confusing, so care is necessary particularly if you are new to the mountain. Mobile phone reception is patchy. The Chiang Mai hiking group ( http://chiangmaihiking.wordpress.com/ ) conducts regular walks in the region and welcomes visitors. Walking is predominantly through forest. At lower elevations this is drier. There are multiple rivers and waterfalls at these levels. At the midlevels, lychee plantations are found in clearings, and there are multiple streams and small waterfalls. The forest at this and upper levels is wet with almost full canopy, and bamboo. At upper levels there is also pine forest (northern slope of Doi Pui). Great views can be had at all levels. It can get quite cool at the higher levels – nice in the warmer months – and rains more that in the city.

4

1. Suthep Rd to Wat Phalad and Pilgrim trail to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep Getting to start: Drive to the top of Suthep Rd. Where the centre yellow line stops there is a cross roads. Turn right (signed "Nature Trail"). Take first left, also signed. Go to the end of the road, just before the gate to the TV transmitters. Park under the tree next to map of the walk to Wat Phalad. The walk: See accompanying map below. Start from behind the map. Stick to the main (large) trail to reach Wat Phalad in 30 mins. At Wat Phalad, cross the bridge over the main stream. Turn left, follow the path along the creek for 50 odd metres, passing the wat, the meditation building and the chedi, all to your right. Reach and ascend the steps, passing up to the right, soon degrading to a steep scramble to the road. Walk uphill along the road to a bridge over a stream. Cross the road. There is a path right next to the stream – don't take this, but rather a large path 20m further downhill. Follow this wide, quite steep path for around 70 minutes to again come out onto the road, 300m below Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. Return: Walking back the same way to parking spot is around one hour.

5 Map 1. Pilgrim Trail

6

2. Wat Prathat Doi Suthep to Baan Khun Chang Kien (around 4 hrs) Getting to the start (1): Drive or Songtaew straight up Huay Kaew Rd to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. Can get a songtaew from Kad Suan Kaew (near the start of Huay Kaew Rd) to CMU or the Zoo then another from there. The walk (1): Start up the steps to the wat, but don't do the right turn to the main stairs to the temple, instead go straight and duck between cafés to the area behind. You can also access this area by a dirt track around 50m further up along the main road. Pass through a trashy area, keeping the elephant house & all buildings to your right. Continue to follow the path. Don't go up the steps to your left, which go to the National park area. As you continue along the path, following pipes for a while, you will notice a path to your left. This also goes to the National park area and is the alternative start described below. Getting to an alternative start (2): Drive 100 odd metres past the wat to a concrete road up to your right – entrance to the national park site. Drive on about 800m. Go round a small knoll to see several accommodation bungalows lying below the level of the road on your right. Walk down between the accommodation bungalows to pick up a path leading down, soon to join the path described above (1) . The walk (both): Picking up from where the alternative start joins the main route, continue to follow a good path. After 1km there is a T junction as you reach a wider track. There is a signpost here to national park HQ (left) and Montatharn. Take the path leading down to the right (ie towards Montatharn).

7 After another 1km there is a signed turnoff to Montatharn to the right (2½ hrs from here). Go straight on. Continue on uphill along an overgrown previously motorable track to a 'crossroads' around 1km from the Montathan turnoff. If you turn right you reach an overgrown lookout point after 100m. If you go straight on you go downhill to reach a large lychee plantation. Turning left continues up to Baan Khun Chang Kien, a fairly large Hmong village. A few cafes are here and at least one is usually open. Return: Baan Khun Chang Kien is on a good road back to Wat Doi Suthep. Turn left onto the road, go under the arch at the start of the town road, where there is a T junction. Turn left. Continue past a coffee shop where the road becomes sealed. Pass a ranger hut and boom gate on your right. Reach a T junction, turn left, pass the palace to reach the wat. This is too far to walk. You may find a songtaew to take you from Baan Khun Chang Kien. The reverse walk, back the way you came, is around 2 to 3 hours. If you are only doing the walk down from Baan Khun Chang Kien, and took a songtaew to Baan Khun Chang Kien, you could divert to Montathan waterfall, reaching the main road to Chiang Mai considerably closer to City.

84. Circular walk to the top of Doi Pui

Four routes are described here to reach the summit of Doi Pui. One is a sealed road (1), two are rough paths (2&3) and the fourth is a good path. The paths are steep.

Getting to the start:

First starting point. Drive or Songtaew past Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. Can get a songtaew from Kad Suan Kaew to CMU or the Zoo then another from here., pass the palace, where the road remains sealed, but becomes narrow, then 1km further take the right turn (if you continue straight you reach a Hmong village). Road remains sealed and narrow. Eventually – after about 4km – reach a boom gate across a road on your left, and a rangers hut. This is the first of several possible starting points (1) and goes up the road past the boom gate. The boom gate is permanently closed. You can park here.

Second and third starting points (2&3). Continue along the road approaching a national park campsite. This is a big terraced lawn area with several buildings. As you approach to turn right into the parking area adjacent to the camping area, note the small path on your left, almost opposite the turnoff. There is a sign with a map on it (in Thai) at the start that you can see from the road. This is the start of trail (2). Continuing to go along this road the start of path (3) is at a short gravel road opposite the far entrance to the camping area.

Fourth starting point (4). Continue driving past a coffee shop down steps on your right until you see a right turn going under an arch. The path up is small, but easy to find, and exactly opposite the road with the arch.

The road under the arch on the right goes to Baan Khun Chang Kien, a Hmong village about 1km further, where some cafes are often open. You can walk back to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep from here (above).

Walk (1):

Walking past the boom gate follows a sealed road (closed to vehicular traffic) for 2km, to a rather forlorn picnic area just below Doi Pui summit.

A 200m walk from here is well signed and takes you to the summit.

From the summit, you can continue straight along a small path, to descend one of the two nature trails described below (2&3). This path branches soon after the summit. That to the right is easier to do, but both are steep and better ascended.

Otherwise return to the picnic area, walk straight across (ie, north) to steps leading down to follow walk (4)

9Walk (2&3) [Nature Trails]:

Start where described above.

Both are similar small but clearly defined paths and are steep. The first is less so, with less loose soil. There is heavy leech infestation along both paths in the wet season. The paths lead directly to the summit (signed).

Continuing straight on takes you to the picnic area at the top of the sealed road, just below the summit.

If you walk straight on, through the picnic area, you'll see steps leading down (due north) to walk (4) below. This ends near Baan Khun Chang Kien.

Or you can descend via the road (walk (1)) to the closed boomgate.

Walk (4):

Continue up the path from the starting point. Well defined quite large path, moderately steep.

Reach the top of the ridge, where you reach a T junction. Turn left. (right turn leads back to the road, rather further on than where it was left). Steep in parts this is a beautiful ridge walk through pine trees with wonderful views.

You reach the picnic area described above at the road head.

To reach the summit walk straight across the picnic area. It's well signed.

If you choose to descend this way you must keep a sharp lookout for the path leading down from the ridge. It can be clearly seen but is in a grassy, relatively flat area.

To descend by one of the nature trails (2&3), continue along a small path beyond the summit. This path soon divides, the left going down walk (3), the right down walk (2).

Or you can walk down the road from the picnic area (walk 1).

10 3. Wat Prathat Doi Suthep to Montathan Waterfall (around 3 hrs)

Getting to the start: Drive or Songtaew to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. Can get a songtaew from Kad Suan Kaew to CMU or the Zoo then another from here.

Getting to an alternative start: Drive 100 odd metres past the wat to a concrete road on your right – entrance to the national park site. Drive on about 800m. Go round a small knoll to see several accommodation bungalows lying below the level of the road on your right. Park here, and walk down between these to pick up a path leading down, joining the path as described below.

The walk: Start up the steps to the wat, but don't do the right turn to the main stairs to the temple, instead go straight and duck between cafés to the area behind. You can also access this area by a dirt track around 40m further up along the main road. Pass through a trashy area, keeping the elephant house & all buildings to your right. Continue to follow the path. Don't go up the steps to your left, which go to the National park area. As you continue along the path, following pipes for a while, you will notice a path to your left. This also goes to the National park area and is the joining point for the alternative start.. Continue along a good path. After 1km there is a T junction as you reach a wider track. There is a signpost here to national park HQ (left) and Montatharn. Take the path leading down to the right (ie towards Montatharn). After another 1km there is a signed turnoff to Montatharn to the right. The path is small but well defined. Overgrown in places with a few creek crossings it is quite easy to follow with care. You conclude by reaching a small waterfall on your left, then descend on the east side of the main waterfall to its base. Cross the river and continue along tourist trails to reach the tarred road. Continue down on the concrete road to reach the main road to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep after 2km.

Return: It's a long (6km) walk back to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep from here. You could try for a songtaew or, after 1.5km, walk up the pilgrim trail from where it crosses the road above wat Phalad.

115. Circular walk from Baan Chang Kien Hmong village.

Getting to the start: Drive or Songtaew up Huay Kaew Rd, past the zoo and Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. Pass the palace, where the road remains sealed, but becomes narrow, then 1km further take a (the first) right turn. Road remains sealed and narrow. After about 4km pass a boom gate across a road on your left, with a rangers hut: continue to the right. Pass a national park campsite (a big terraced lawn area with several buildings), then a coffee shop down on your right (road unsealed from here), until you see a right turn going under an arch. Drive under the arch to Baan Khun Chang Kien, a Hmong village about 1km further, where some cafes are often open. Leave car here. This is quite a long drive, taking around 45 mins.

The walk: Continue walking along the road you were travelling. The track you want is straight ahead and you need to skirt a school. Continuing in this direction you start descending a motorable track . There are several tracks to the left going to lychee fields, and a few small paths to the right (mainly shortcuts). You are looking for a track to the right, and there is a sala near the far corner. Going straight takes you down to Huay Tung Taew. Take this right turn and continue along a level track, passing through lychee fields. After about 1km the track passes up to a low ridge. The top has a large marked tree. Quite large walking paths go to the right and left. If you turn right here, you ascend steeply back to the village. If you go straight on you can return to the village a much longer way round. This way you pass through more lychee fields, eventually ascending to a cross roads. This is the track described above, going from Wat Doi Suthep to Baan Khun Chang Kien. Turn right at this crossroad to ascend to Baan Khun Chang Kien The track up is easy but quite long. Turning left leads to an overgrown viewpoint (100m) Straight on descends to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep.

126. Circular walk to Huay Tung Taew Waterfall

Getting there: Up Huay Kaew Rd, cross the Rincome lights intersection, turn right at Canal Rd towards the 700 year stadium. Drive around 6 ½ km to see a sign to Huay Tung Taew. Turn left here, follow the road. Reach entrance booth to the park (cost B20 pp), continue to a T junction. Turn right and follow the road to the other end of the lake. There's a gravel road to your right with an open boom gate. Take this to the national park entrance. There's a ranger's hut and open boom gate here. Park here. Going up past the boom gate leads to Baan Khun Chang Kien. The walk to the waterfall starts by crossing the concrete wier to your left.

The Walk: Cross the stream via the concrete weir and continue up a good path. If you simply follow the main track, which follows the south bank of the stream, you reach a cascades. The path leads to the top of the cascades. At this point there is a path to your left, while the main path crosses the stream. The path to your left is an easy way to get above the main waterfall (or a way to get down from the top of the waterfall), described later. Continue over the stream, following the main path, to continue along the north bank of the stream. Notice a bamboo bridge crossing the stream about halfway along this section. From here it's not far to the bottom of a large waterfall. From the bottom of the waterfall, backtrack 20m, to see a path ascending steeply on your left. Follow this to soon reach a rock gulley. Scramble over the first few boulders, then ascend a series of ladders reaching to the top of the waterfall (40 odd metres high). From the top of the waterfall, you can follow paths to your right or left. The right path ascends long and steep to a track in a lychee field, which connects to tracks to Baan Khun Chang Kien. The left path takes you back down any of several easy ways. Taking the left path, ascend a while then traverse along a rather overgrown path, which soon starts decsending towards a saddle separating a small knoll from the general mountain slope. At the first fork in this path the left leads back to the path you ascended, between the cascades and waterfall at the bamboo bridge. Continuing on the right path leads to a second fork. The left path from the second fork leads up over the top of the knoll, then descends back to the ascended path at the top of the cascades. The right path leads back to the ascended path not far above the start of the walk. Follow the ridge down and to the left. There are a few turns off on the right which should be avoided (see map)

13