DMT Extraction and Purification by Critical Switch

7/13/2019 DMT Extraction and Purification by Critical Switch

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5kg DMT EXTRACTION AND PURIFICATIONCritical Switch

Here I will be outlining the extraction for5000grams of Mimosa Hostilis root bark. One of thesteps along the way will produce what I call jungleDMT (seems to contain another active ingrediant

which gives the DMT a frightening dark side, mostdo not prefer it in this form. May contain b-

carbolines but not sure.) Then after a purificationwash you will be left with almost pure nn-dmt (muchsmoother and enjoyable than the jungle DMT) Ill

also talk about how to smoke it in a smooth andeffective way.

BE PREPAIRED TO WORK YER DAMN ASS OFF!

#1 Get the bark

-10X500g MIMOSA HOSTILIS-


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#2 Break it all into 3-5cm chunks.

-5kg MHRB Broken into 3-5 cm lengths-During this step you need leather work gloves

or youll wear the skin right off your hands. This

literally takes hours and hours to do. If you can

find a better way to do this, then please make it

common knowledge; its pure hell.

#3 Powder the bark in a blender.

A BA- Good powerful blender to smash the bar to

powder. The plactic ones are carp; dont usem them.


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B- This is what the bark looks like powdered in theblender for a few minutes.

I generally fill the blender up to just under a

third of the volumn and smash it on high for a few

minutes. If you want to do this quickly then you

need to wear a dust mask. Theyre like a buck at a

hardware store and will stop that purple dust from

going down your throat annd nose.

#4 Put all 5000g of powdered bark into large winefermenting bucket.

#5 Make a batch of acidified water in anotherbucket.


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-Acidified water in bathtub of hot water-

Get wine buckets that have a measurement scale on

the side. Fill the bucket with water that is as hot

as your hot tap will make it. Some use distilled

water, but in a large extraction it is not

practical, and neither would be heating this amount

of water. (besides it works fine) Fill the bucket

to 15L. Now you add 15-20 small drops of Muriatic

acid. The water in this bucket looks redish just

because there was still some powder leftover in it

from breaking up the bark. Normally it looks clear.


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-Muriatic acid from hardware store.

#6 Pour the acidified water onto the bark.

-Bark soaking in acidified water in tub with hot

water in it.-After you have poured the water sitr it up every

five minutes with a long plastic spoon like this

one from a wine making store. The bucket is in a

tub of hot water to keep it warm.


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#7 Strain the first batch of acidified water out ofbark.

I did this with 2 stainless steel salad bowls and a

colander made of the same.

First you put the bark into the colander.

-Note the wad bark is the size of a softball-

Next you put one salad bowl under the colander andone on top of the bark.


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Next you step on the top bowl and squeeze as muchacid solution out is as humanly possible. Dontpust too hard until the third acid soak, youll

have an aneurism. But on the third soak you need topull up on the bottom bowl. Pull hard as hell andget all that solution! I put the strained solutioninto another bucket. You repeat this step two moretimes. The acid solution is put into carboys. Itwill take two of them to hold all the acid water

and leave enough room for a base solution.

#8 Once the acid solution is in the two carboys letit sit in a cool place for a day or two so all the

crap settles to the bottom. You can them siphon outthe good liquid back into the buckets, being

careful not to vacuum up any of the sludge. Youwill have to pour the last little bit though.


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-Carboy with funnel for pouring from bucket-

#9 Rinse the leftover sludge out of the carboys andpour the acid solution back in. Put an even amount

into each.

#10 Basification. I suck and forgot to take pics of

this part. You simply mix sodium Hydroxide intowater. I used almost half a bottle this size in Ithink 15L of warm water. Next time I will weightthe exact amounts. Basically I put about 112gramsof it into about 7 litres of water. NOTE: You willnot need nearly all the NaOH & water solution to

basify.


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-Sodium Hydroxide-

I poured in a cup of basified water at a time intothe the carboy (do one at a time) Each time I poursome of the base solution in I stir it really wellwith the stick end of the long spoon which is

polyethelyne. Once the solution is black, I pour intwo more cups for good measure and stir.


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-This is a carboy just after basification-

#11 Pulling the DMT from basified solution withNon-polar solvent.


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-Lab Grade Xylene 4L-

If you want the jungle DMT, then you will have to

use xylene (lab grade or distilled) or similar DCM.

If not, then naptha, toluol or any other non-polar

solvent that is either free of contaminants or has

been distilled will work fine, though it may

achieve smaller yields.You will be performing three (or four if your

obsessive) solvent extractions on each basifiedcarboy. Each extraction will require 1000ml of

solvent. I know its a lot but no worries, you getmost of it back during distillation. Pour 1000ml of

solvent into each carboy (I do them both at oncehere) the solvent will float on top. Now take thecarboy and put it on some cardboard (actually

always have something like that under it if you areon a hard floor; breaking one of these is expensiveand would be an absolute disaster.) Now you takethe carboy and tilt it and swirl it around andshake it back and fourth enough to create a

whirlpool effect. Then let it sit and do the otherone. I swirl them every 5 minutes for an hour. Once


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this is done you need to siphon base solution outfrom under the solvent. Care is taken not to get

any of the solvent with the siphon.

-Siphoning base solution from under solvent-

Now store the solvent that is left and any small

amount of basified solution. The will be a lot ofemulsion and its a pain in the ass to separate.For now just store the solvent and emulsion in a

flask and as quick as you can get the solvent layeroff the other carboy. You do this two more times

and flask and bottle up all the solvent andemulsion layers.


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-A couple 2000ml flasks and various others full of

solvent emulsion and base solution-

#12 Seperating the solvent from the emulsion is apain in the ass. I sit the flasks in hot water for

a while then actually pour off as much of thesolvent as I can and add a few spoons full of salt.

Basically even pouring it from flask to flaskbreaks it down. Here I managed to retrieve justunder the 6000ml I put into it the was maybe 250mlof emulsion that was to tough to work with so I

just put it aside for now.


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-Solvent with Emulsion +2000ml-


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-Clean solvent is poured off-


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-All the emulsion-

Once the emulsion was down to only 250ml+- theclean solvent was put into proper flasks.


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-All the extracted solvent approx 5750ml-

#13 Sodium Carbonate and water washes. First wewill wash with NaCl and water, then just x2 just as

in other teks.

A B


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A. This is Sodium Carbonate for adjusting poolPH.

B.

This is how much I used for washing 2000ml ofsolvent.

-150ml of H2O with NaCl used for 2000ml solvent-

I literally just pour the water in stopper theflask and shake the hell out of it for 5-7min.


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-Water\sodium carb Sinks to bottom after shaking-

Next I suck the water layer from the bottom witha turkey baster that has a polyethylene tube

attached to the end.


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-Baster with polyethylene water tubing is greatfor pulling the water layer from the bottom of a

flask-

If you hold the flask on an angle you can be muchmore accurate. I Keep pulling in liquid until Ihave gotten some of the solvent in the tube as tobe sure that there is no water layer left at all.Keep the water layer you pull as it will have afair bit of solvent in it too. You will also

notice that once you have ran a batch of solventthrough a wash it will be foggy.


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-Flask is foggy from washing-

Once you have washed all your solvent, take thewater layer and put it in a sep funnel to get the

solvent back.


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#14 Distillation of the solvents is definitely astep you want to be sober for. Here we will betaking batches of 800ml of solvent and stilling

it down to about 150ml.

I have been told that this may be partlyresponsible for creating beta carbolines. A

friend who used a reflux condenser of his xylene

extraction told me he thinks the xylene had

pulled other alkaloids from the bark that are

converted into B-carbolines of some sort. Either

way your DMT yield will not be affected.


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The still I used is a homemade copper still thatis welded with copperbond (like a epoxy ie no

real welding needed) It can be made for cheap andonly takes a few hours.

-Still with #9 1 hole rubber stopper-


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-Small tube on left is solvent tube/ water input

on right-


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-Water from tap going to cool still-


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-Flask with 800ml solvent ready to rip-


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-Beaker ready to catch distilled solvent-


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-Still ready to go/water running into bottom out

top-


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-Solvent boiling-


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If you are seeing this! IMMEDIATELY TURN OFF THE

HEAT AND STAND THE FUCK BACK!If you want to boil down a lot of solvent really

you should use boiling chips. I dont bother but

Ill never fill a flask up as much as I did this

one again. No more then 800ml in a 1000ml flask.

Also putting a thick plate bottomed pot under theflask IS NOT AN OPTION; YOU NEED IT THERE TO

DISTRIBUTE THE HEAT!

The solvent coming out the bottom of the still

will tend to be a little foggy at first. It will

be totally clear in a few minuter. The solvent


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you still down will get darker. Looks like an

amber beer at the end.

DMT TEK 2nd

half

#15 Evaporating the stilled solvent is a terriblething. Do this part away from where you have to

breathe cause the fumes are toxic and disgusting.I put the solvent in a baking dish I had that isfairly flat. I then cover it with a womens nylon(lets air pass through readily) and put a fan onit when possible and let it evaporate until it


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solidifies; which may require spreading it aroundwith a putty knife.

-All 850ml of stilled solvent-


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-Solvent with nylon covering it for cleanliness-

The oil will evaporate to leave a yellowish oil.


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This batch took a few days to get to this point.I know it looks like the 850ml of solvent, but

the volume has gone down a lot and theconsistency is that of honey.


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This is the exact same batch as above just the

oil has pooled into the corner and now looks likea repulsive puddle of motor oil.

#16 Turning the oil into a crystal is easy to dobut takes some time. I literally spread it outonto mirrors. To do this I use a small putty

knife that bends easily. Better yet would be anartists pallet knife. Anyway, I had to use

several mirrors and this took two batches beforeall the oil had solidified.


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-DMT oil spread out onto a mirror-

As the oil crystallizes it turns a yellowishcolor and goes from translucent to opaque. Notice

the areas where the oils is in globs or justthicker; once the thinner parts start to go

opaque, then re-spread the oil so it as thin andeven as possible.


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-Not ready to be scraped yet-

If the DMT oils out when scraped then re-spread

it again and put a fan on it.


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DMT ready to be scraped.

I got these mirrors from Ikea; guess there is areason for the shit-eating bastards at Ikea to

exist.


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This picture is crap, but the DMT should not oilout when scraped up. You may need to leave themirrors out for four hours or more. This wasafter about three hours with a fan on them.


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-All the DMT after scraping. It is quite dirty at

this point-


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-DMT before re crystallization came out to 37.3

grams-

#17 Recrystalization is needed her for a fewreasons. You can smoke the DMT as is but it willbe a little worse tasting and the actual high isnot as smooth. I put all the DMT into a flash andwash it with a nonpolar solvent until all that is

left is a puddle of dark red.


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-DMT is placed into 2000ml flask for solvent wash

(recrystalization)-


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Dmt submersed in solvent

Once the solvent has been added I swish it around

until the DMT has turned into a translucent red

liquid.


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-Dmt pretty much dissolved. What hasnt dissolved

will be caught on next wash-

You now decant off the solvent and evaporate it

or freeze separate it. Freeze precipitating willget a more pure product and this is what I will

illustrate.


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-Solvent decanted and ready for freezer-

JUNGLE DMTNow if you want the weird Dmt the stuff you see

in the beaker above will crystallize and lookmaroon. This product is the jungle DMT and Iadvise you to take caution if you decide to tryit. It wort work without using xylene or DCM as astarting solvent. The washes must then be done

with heptane or naptha.


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-Jungle DMT after it crystallizes-

Freeze precipitation is very easy (almostimpossible with xylene). Here I used naptha

(distilled camping fuel). It took a few differentcontainers to fit all the solvent. I used a 1Lpickle jar and a bunch of smaller mason jars.Once they are in the freezer they will go foggyat first and then after a few more hours therewill be all kinds of DMT crystals all over the

glass.


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-1L pickle jar after freeze precipitation for

about 3 hours. This jar alone yielded 10.4 grams-

You simply pour out the solvent and let the

crystals dry out for an hour or so.


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-One of the smaller jars with solvent poured out.

DMT is nice and white-

Now you scrape out all the crystals with a butter

knife and chop it up with a razor on a mirror so

it cad totally dry off.


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-8.4 grams of freshly dried and scraped snow

white DMT-

This particular batch yielded just over 25 grams

of the purified DMT.

That is basically it. Get as much of the DMT outof the solvent through freeze precipitation andthen store the solvent to use inn your next

freeze seperation or evaporate it and do a minirecrystalization to ensure its pure. If you use

naptha as you initial solvent the entireextraction will be easier and more pleasant asxylene is a terrible chemical to deal with.

Though you will not be able to make the jungleDMT and your yields will generally be smaller.

DMT Extraction and Purification by Critical Switch

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