DIY CHECKLIST IN PAGES copy 3 - Mazza Inspections...Attic Insulation 64 Attic Framing 65 Attic...

Grounds 8Driveway 8Walkway 8Porch 8Courtyard 9Patio 9Gutters 9Retaining Walls 10Hose Bibs 10Patio Cover 10Gates 11Wood Fence 11Wrought Iron Fence 12Chain Link Fence 12Block Wall 12Stair Railing 12Grading / Yard Drainage 13Irrigation 13Sub-Surface Drainage 14Trees 14

Exterior 14Walls 14STUCCO 14WOOD SIDING 15Trim 16WOOD TRIM 16FOAM TRIM 16Electrical 17

NOTESBarbecue 17Fountain 17Exterior Closets 18

STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS 18Wall Framing 18Roof Framing 18Concrete Slab Foundation 19Raised Foundation 19Sub-Grade Area 19Raised Foundation Ventilation 20Raised Foundation Framing 20Raised Foundation Electrical 21Stem-Wall Foundation 21

ROOFING 21Composition Shingles 22Concrete / Other Tile Roofing 22Wood Shingles 22Flat Roofing 23Cal-Shake roofing 23Roof Flashings 23

CHIMNEYS 24Factory Built Chimney 24Masonry Chimney 24Pre-Cast Chimney 25Free-Standing Vent Stack 25Gas Appliance Termination 26

INTERIOR FIREPLACE 26Factory built Fireplace 26Masonry Fireplace 27Gas Appliance Fireplace 28Wood / Pellet Fireplace / Stove 28

PLUMBING 28Main Water Supply 29

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NOTESRegulator 29Water Pressure 29PRV (Pressure Relief Valve located at the main water supply) 29Supply Piping 29The water supply piping is: COPPER PLASTIC GALVANIZED 29COPPER Supply Piping 30PLASTIC Supply Piping 30GALVANIZED Supply Piping 30Drain-Waste-Vent Piping 31Fuel Supply 31Water Heater 32

GARAGE 34General Conditions 34

Garage Slab 34Garage Separation Wall 35Garage Walls and Ceiling 35Garage Ventilation 35Garage Fire door 35Garage Side Man-Door 36Garage Framing 36Vehicle Door(s) Rollup / Tilt up 36Automatic Opener(s) 37Garage Electrical 37Garage Stairs 37Garage Windows 38

ELECTRICAL 38General Comments 38Weather Head (Aerial Service) 39Underground Service 39Service Panel Cover 40Dead Front Cover 40Service Size 40Wiring Methods 40Bus Bar 40



NOTESInfrared Observations 41Circuit Breakers 41Panel Wiring 41Neutral / Grounding Bus 41Equipotential Bonding 42Wiring Type 42Grounding System 42

SUB-PANEL 43General comments 43Sub Panel Service Panel Cover 43Sub Panel Dead Front Cover 43Sub Panel Service Size 43Sub Panel Wiring Methods 43Sub Panel Bus Bar 43Sub Panel Infrared Observations 44Sub Panel Circuit Breakers 44Sub Panel Wiring 44Sub Panel Neutral / Grounding Bus 44Sub Panel Wiring Type 44Sub Panel Grounding System 45

INTERIOR (room) ____________ 45Electrical 45Interior Doors 46Exterior Doors 47Windows 48Flooring 49Walls 50Ceilings 50Egress 51Interior Bar 51Cabinetry 51Sky-Lights 51

STAIRS 52



NOTESStair Railing 52Stair Treads 52

LAUNDRY 52General Comments 52Supply piping 52Waste 53Gas Supply 53Electrical 53Dryer Duct 53Cabinetry 53Combustion / Make-up Air 54Room Ventilation 54Washing Machine Pan 54Laundry Sink 54Electrical 54

KITCHEN 55General Comments 55Electrical 55Countertop 57Countertop Observations 57Kitchen Sink 57Garbage Disposal 58Kitchen Cabinets 58Gas / Electric Cook top 59Gas / Electric Oven 59Exhaust Ventilation / Light 59Dishwasher 60

BATHROOMS 60Electrical 60Toilet 61Sink 61Ventilation Fan 62Bathtub / Shower enclosure 62



NOTESHydromassage Bathtub 63Vanity 64

ATTIC 64Attic Access 64Attic Insulation 64 Attic Framing 65Attic Ventilation 65Attic Electrical 65Attic Exhaust Ducts 66Factory Built Chimney Flue / Fire Stop 66Masonry Chimney Observations 66Attic Separation wall (Condo / Town-house) 66

Heating System 67Heating System Observations 67Combustion Chamber 67Venting 67Fuel Supply 68Combustion / Make up Air 68Evaporative Coil 68Circulating Fan 68Condensate Drain(s) 69Thermostat(s) 69Return Air 69

AIR CONDITIONER 69General Observations 70Electrical 70Refrigerant Lines 70Temperature Differential 71

REGISTERS AND DUCTS 71Flexible Ducts 71Asbestos Ducts 71Rigid Fiberglass / Metal Ducts 71Thermostatically Controlled Dampers 72



NOTESRegisters 72

SWIMMING POOL AND SPA 72Water Fill and Overflow 72Disinfectant type 73Pool Tile 73Pools Interior Finish Material 73Coping 73Pool Deck 74Skimmer 74Pool Drains 74Cleaner Machine 75Lighting 75Diving Board / Diving Rock 75Slide 75Ladder / Railing 76Pool Pumps 76Air Blower 78Piping 78Valves 78Filtration 79Heating System 79Gas Piping 79Electrical 80Sub Panel Service Panel Cover 80Sub Panel Dead Front Cover 80Sub Panel Service Size 81Sub Panel Wiring Methods 81Sub Panel Bus Bar 81Sub Panel Infrared Observations 81Sub Panel Circuit Breakers 81Sub Panel Wiring 82Sub Panel Neutral / Grounding Bus 82Sub Panel Wiring Type 82Sub Panel Grounding System 82



NOTES

GroundsDriveway

Driveway(s) Okay

Cracks less than 1/8” (Typical)

Cracks greater than 1/4” (Non typical)

Settled concrete surface

Settled brick surface

Raised surface (trip hazard)

Raised surface tree root damage - (DIY TIP: Pay close attention to yard drain pipes as well as sewer drain piping and main water supply piping).

Newer sections (may suggest prior damage here)

WalkwayWalkways Okay








PorchPorch Okay







NOTESRaised surface (trip hazard)


Newer sections (This may suggest prior damage here)

CourtyardCourtyard Okay








PatioPatio Okay






Raised surface tree root damage - (Pay close attention of yard drain pipes as well as irrigation piping). Test all yard drains before purchase!


GuttersGutters Okay

Sagging gutters

Missing / damaged screens

Debris or water filled



NOTESMissing or loose nails

Rusted or deteriorated

Leaking (seams may require sealant)

Gutter downspouts drain too close to the building (less than 6 feet)

Retaining WallsRetaining walls Okay

Loose materials

Wood planks / rail road ties / telephone poles (may not be suitable as retaining wall materials)

Segmental wall with no angle / Is vertical - (DIY TIP: check maximum height for this material)

Stacked concrete not grouted installed - (DIY TIP: check maximum height for this material)

Cracks in block or concrete

Leaning wall - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Tree root damaged - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

No visible drains in wall / is leaking

Wall close to the house / dirt against the building / lacks drainage - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Hose BibsHose bibs Okay

Hose bib pipe is loose in the wall

Hose bib: ___ handle ___ riser ___ pipe leaks continually

Missing vacuum breaker

Hose bib is stripped

Missing handle

Hose bib riser is loose and suggested to be better secured to wall (vertically)

Hose bib is galvanized when majority of house is re-piped in copper - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate to determine whether dissimilar metal contact was made and / or how much galvanized material still exists within the wall)

Patio CoverPatio cover Okay



NOTES*DIY TIP Check permits

Wood is weathered

Wood is moisture damaged

Seal the ledger (wood board that attaches to the building) attachment to the house

Post to slab contact (No space between wood and concrete / dirt)

No ledger attachment (Rafters are attached directly to fascia board)

Rafter boards sagging (Over spanned / rafters are too long)

Beam is sagging (Over spanned / beam is too long)

Wood sheathing for roof is moisture damaged - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate the roof covering materials as well as determine if the roof leaks)

GatesGates Okay

Gates do not close unassisted leading to pool - (*Safety concern)

Gate is damaged and will not operate at all

Gate rubs the ground / wall

Gate is wood and deteriorated

Gate is wrought iron and rusted

Gate was locked remember to re-check

Refer to our pool barrier safety page on our website if this property possesses a swimming pool or spa

Wood FenceWood Fence Okay

Wood fence has rot

Wood fence has missing boards

Wood fence has wood members which are not “Rot Resistive” (Cedar, California Redwood, Cypress, Teak)

Wood fence Leans / Sways

Wood fence is beyond its useful life

Wood posts are not secured into footings

Wood fence damage is a safety hazard due to swimming pool / spa present



NOTES

Wrought Iron FenceWrought Fence Okay

Wrought iron fence is rusted / deteriorated

Wrought iron fence is disconnected from base / wall attachment

Wrought iron fence sways - (Be sure to inspect the point at which the fence is secured such as the top of a block wall or into a footing)

Wrought iron fence is damaged / beyond its life

Chain Link FenceChain Link Okay

Chain link fence is damaged / missing pieces

Chain link fence is used as a pool barrier and has small openings (*safety hazard due to swimming pool)

Chainlink rusted

Block WallBlock fence Okay

Block fencing leans

Block fencing sways

Blocks are loose

Blocks are missing

Blocks are cracked

Cap material is loose / missing

Tree roots causing damage to wall

Stair RailingStair / Railing okay

Stair treads are smaller than 10”

Stair Risers are taller than 7 ¾”



NOTESStair risers / treads possess more than a 3/8” difference between them

Railings are needed one one side when there are more than 4 risers

Railings are loose

Railings are not between 34-42”

Railings are damaged

The space between “pickets” are wider than 4” - (Hazard to small children)

Grading / Yard DrainageGrading okay

The site possesses a *very steep hillside up or down - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The grade slopes towards the house at any point around the property - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There are holes in the yard which may suggest the removal of a tree - (DIY TIP: Ask the seller if there was a tree removed if so, be aware of the location of the underground piping – inspect as necessary)

There are areas where the soil or concrete touch the bottom of the house - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Hillside has no visible swales or drainage basin - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There are planters which are close to / up against the house _____ with _____ without the ability to drain in the event they become flooded

There is insufficient slope away from the house (6” in first 10 feet dirt)( 2% slope for solid surface)

Solid surfaces are higher than the lower edge of the exterior wall of the building risking water entry into the building - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

IrrigationIrrigation Okay

Leaking valves / pipes / sprinkler heads

Irrigation valves too low to grade - (possible cross contamination of potable water supply)

Sprinkler heads spraying onto the building finishes - (re adjustment needed)

Damaged / Missing sprinkler heads

Timer damaged / missing

Loose / exposed wiring



NOTES

Sub-Surface DrainageSub surface drains Okay

Sub grade drainage noted but there are no holes curbside (where does the water go?)

Vegetation growing from within the drain pipes

Stains surrounding the drains – (suggesting the drain is blocked)

Trees close to sub grade drain piping - (video scan suggested here)

Missing / damaged drain covers

TreesTrees on hillside

Dead trees on property close to the house or possible piping - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Trees close to plumbing or other piping - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (A video inspection of piping may be necessary here)

ExteriorWalls

STUCCOStucco walls Okay

Cracks 1/16 – 1/8” (These cracks are considered typical in stucco construction)

Cracks 1/8-1/4” + (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks diagonal at the window or door (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Spalling / deterioration of the stucco covering (*check sprinkler spray and gutter runoff)

Holes in the stucco wall covering

Penetrations around pipes and trim needs to be sealed

Stucco needs to be painted



NOTESThe wall was recently painted - may hide damage or previous repairs

Missing material in large quantity

Exposed building wrap / paper

Exposed wood framing - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Bowed wall … vertical / horizontal - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Leaning wall - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Raised Foundation: Cracks in wall at the sill plate level (This may suggest the building has shifted from its attachment to the foundation) - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Raised Foundation: Repairs in wall at sill plate level (raised foundation) - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Large patches in stucco - (be aware that the building paper can be damaged when cutting into stucco the stucco wall) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Doors / windows added into the stucco wall (*be aware that when adding doors and windows into walls may require supports to be placed above the windows or doors as exterior walls are load bearing walls) - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Doors / windows added into the stucco wall - (*be aware that when adding doors and windows into walls may require the cutting into the building envelope or paper wrap which protects the building from moisture entry) - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The weep screed is rusted and deteriorated (be aware that sprinklers may be damaging the weep screed)

The weep screed is not installed (Weep screeds are designed to drain moisture behind the stucco and in front of the building paper) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The weep screed has been stuccoed over (wall may not drain properly) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Large gap between the weep screed and the building

The bottom of the wall touches the ground i.e. concrete / soil (no weep screed means the wall may not drain sufficiently. This was common practice for older homes 60’s and before) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Vegetation contact with the walls

WOOD SIDINGSiding overall: OKAY FAIR POOR

Siding shows signs of typical or normal wear

Siding is weathered – needs paint

Rot was observed in the wood siding

Missing siding boards



NOTESLoose / warped siding boards

Exposed building paper - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Wood siding makes contact with the soil or concrete

Wood siding connections or joints need to be sealed

Holes and penetrations need to be sealed

Vegetation contact with wood siding

MASONRY SIDING

Masonry facing added to the front of the house w/o flashings - (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Masonry facing damaged / missing materials

Masonry material deteriorated

Sealant is suggested at various penetrations

Siding overall: OKAY FAIR POOR

TrimWOOD TRIM

Wood trim Okay

Wood twisted / weathered needs paint

Wood Needs to be sealed where connected to the building

Wood possess dry rot

Termite damaged wood noted

FOAM TRIMFoam trim Okay

Cracks in foam trim

Loose foam trim

The trim was recently painted - may hide damage or previous repairs

Weathered foam trim

Trim needs to be sealed to the wall



NOTES

ElectricalElectrical Okay

Are the plugs GFI protected - (Safety concern if the exterior plugs are not GROUND FAULT protected)

Non operational plugs

Plugs missing cover plates - (Safety concern)

Exposed / loose wiring hazard - (Safety concern) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Loose or damaged junction boxes - (Safety concern) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Light fixtures missing glass

Loose light fixtures

Light fixtures need to be sealed where they make contact with the house

Lights that do not operate. Location(s): ______________________________________________

BarbecueBBQ Okay

Does the BBQ operate Y/N

Damaged knobs

Missing parts

Enclosure / base / built-in is made of wood - (*Safety concern) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Located under a solid combustible cover - (*Safety concern) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Located under trees - (*Safety concern)

FountainFountain Okay

Does the fountain operate Y/N

Empty not tested

Concrete pieces loose

Plug not GFI protected - (*Safety concern) (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTES

Exterior ClosetsClosets okay

Closets are full and therefore not inspected

Doors are damaged / weathered

Doors are hollow core

Moisture damaged walls within the closet - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS Wall Framing

Wall framing Okay

Wood framing is visibly damaged / cracked / missing

Termite damage

Moisture damaged

Contact with grade

Framing members appears to have been repaired - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Framing members appear to have been modified - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Roof FramingALL CONDITIONS LISTED BELOW (IF CHECKED) REQUIRE AN ADDITIONAL INSPECTION BY A PROFESSIONAL OF THIS TRADE

Roof framing Okay

Missing framing members

Cracked roof framing members

Moisture stained wood

Repairs observed

Wood trusses cracked / damaged / missing



NOTESTruss / Ceiling joists removed for whole house fan

Cracks in wood framing members

Wood which is too long for span

New Tile roofing on existing roof framing

Scorching suggests previous fire

Concrete Slab FoundationSlab Okay

ALL CONDITIONS LISTED BELOW (IF CHECKED) REQUIRE AN ADDITIONAL INSPECTION BY A PROFESSIONAL OF THIS TRADE

Vertical cracking in stem-wall of the slab

Horizontal cracking in stem-wall of slab

Deteriorated concrete slab (crumbling)

Repairs to the concrete slab

Post tension slab with cracks larger than 3/32” (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Raised FoundationAccessibility Okay

Not accessible – no entrance

Access screen damaged / missing

Access too small - unable to access

Not entered due to pests observed under the house

Not accessed – too wet

Sub-Grade AreaSub grade area Okay


Sub grade moist….. ___ Very ___ Moderately ___ Somewhat damp

Signs of previous moisture



NOTESWater currently standing / ponding under house

Deep ruts cut from plumbing repairs or otherwise (* Ask seller if any repairs were performed)

Vegetation growing under house

Debris under the house

Rodent activity

Termite activity

Mold / mildew

Raised Foundation VentilationVentilation Okay


No vents for sub-grade area

Vent screens damaged - may allow rodents into sub-grade area

Vents too close to the ground - may allow water under the building

Too few vents for size of underfloor area - too little ventilation

Ventilation helped by fan - indication of too little ventilation

Additional ventilation needed – mold – mildew – moisture observed under the house

Raised Foundation FramingFraming Okay


Missing framing

Undersized framing

Moisture / insect damaged framing

Soil contact with wood framing

Seismic upgrades Noted / Needed

Holes drilled / Notches cut into framing

Newer framing / repairs noted



NOTES

Raised Foundation ElectricalElectrical Okay


Loose exposed wiring not terminated (live / dead)

Loose / damaged junction boxes

Open junction boxes

Wiring laying on ground

Melted wiring

Loose Romex (NM) wiring hanging

Stem-Wall FoundationStem walls Okay


Vertical cracking……….. 1/16” to 1/8” 1/8” to 1/4” 1/4” Plus ++

Horizontal Cracking ……….. 1/16” to 1/8” 1/8” to 1/4” 1/4” Plus ++

No stem walls / framing sitting on….. ___ Rock ___ Dirt ___ Wood

No visible foundation bolts

Foundation Bolt spacing is less than building code requires **1/2” bolt spaced no less than 6’ and 4’ for 2 story

ROOFINGDIY Tips:

1. Because you have no idea what condition the roofing paper is in by a visual inspection or even by simply running the water over the top of the roof covering materials, we always suggest a roof inspection prior to your purchase.

2. The use of an infrared camera is strongly suggested when looking for leaks within the roofing system in conjunction with a certified water intrusion test

Estimated Roof Age __________ YEARS



NOTES

Composition ShinglesNumber of Layers _______

Shingles Okay

Newer Roofing - (Check for permits)

Damaged / Curling shingles - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Missing shingles - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Exposed Nail heads - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Prior repairs performed- (* Ask sellers about this work and check for permits)

Debris on the roof deck

Roof is at the end of its useful life - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Ridge cap is deteriorated / End of life - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Concrete / Other Tile RoofingConcrete tile roof okay

Missing tiles (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Slipped tiles (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Roofing paper observed under slipped tile (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracked tiles (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Prior repairs performed (* Ask sellers about this work and check for permits)

Debris on the deck

Chipped tiles (above the head of the lower tile)

Roof is older than 30 years (* Have a roofing contractor inspect the roofing paper here)

Wood ShinglesWood shingles Okay


Missing shingles

Roofing paper observed under missing shingles

Cracked / Split shingles



NOTESPrior repairs performed (* Ask sellers about this work and check for permits)

Debris on the deck

Roof is older than 30 years (* Have a roofing contractor inspect the roofing paper here)

Flat RoofingFlat roofing okay


Loose roofing material


No bleed-out observed / fish-mouth noted (*Material is not stuck to one-another)

Ponding observed on roof deck / Poor drainage on roof deck

Material is beyond its useful life

Drain covers are missing

Drains are clogged

Cal-Shake roofingCAL SHAKE ROOFING MATERIAL IS AN INFERIOR MATERIAL AND IF YOU BELIEVE YOU HAVE THIS MATERIAL SEEK THE SERVICES OF A ROOFING CONTRACTOR TO INSPECT THIS ROOF.


Missing shingles

Roofing paper observed under missing shingles

Cracked / Split shingles


Debris on the deck

Roof FlashingsRoof flashing okay

Rusted flashings

Missing “B” or “BW” vent caps



NOTESVent caps for “B” vents are rusted / Deteriorated and collapsed on top of the vent - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Flashings / Vents require sealant at the penetration

“B” vent too close to a vertical wall or window

Chimney suggested to possess a “cricket”

No “kick-outs”

Valley flashing is cut short

CHIMNEYSDIY Tip:

1. Because you have no idea what condition the flue liner is in by a visual inspection or even by simply looking into the flue from the top of bottom, we always suggest a chimney inspection prior to your purchase.

2. If the house was re-piped, you should consider looking into permits or warranties

Factory Built ChimneyChimney Is okay

Chimney Sways when pressed upon (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks located within the chase stucco finish

Damaged foam trim at the top of the chase

Wood rot trim at the top of the chase

Chase cover sunken and holds water (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Rusted chase cover (* May be a potential safety issue-have this inspected by a chimney contractor)

Missing / Damaged spark arrestor

Chimney is short and does not meet the 3-2-10 rule - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Chimney was added - Check for permits

*It is always suggested that the inner flue liner of every chimney system be inspected by a professional with a camera

Masonry ChimneyChimney Is okay

Chimney Sways when pressed uponcopyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �24


NOTESCracks within the brick or grout - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Ash dump door rusted or missing

Wood trim (eave / fascia) makes contact with the chimney

Missing or damaged spark arrestor (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks within the chimney cap (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)


Chimney was added - Check for permits (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

*It is always suggested that the inner flue liner of every chimney be inspected by a professional with a camera

Pre-Cast Chimney

Chimney Is okay

Chimney Sways when pressed upon (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks within the exterior walls of the chimney - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Ash dump door rusted or missing

Missing / Damaged spark arrestor (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)


Chimney was added - Check for permits

Cracks within the chimney cap

It is always suggested that the inner flue liner of every chimney be inspected by a professional with a camera

Free-Standing Vent StackVent Is okay

Vent Sways when pressed upon (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Vent is rusted deteriorated

Vent is not properly supported (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Vent is short and does not meet the 3-2-10 rule - (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Vent was added - Check for permits



NOTESIt is always suggested that the inner flue liner be inspected by a professional with a camera

Gas Appliance Termination

*It is always suggested that the inner flue liner of every chimney be inspected by a professional with a camera

*You must possess the manufactures manual for installation in order to properly inspect these types of systems

INTERIOR FIREPLACEFactory built Fireplace

Fireplace Is okay

Fireplace flue is disconnected - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

Damper is stuck open / closed - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

Damper needs to be blocked in the open position when gas logs are present - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

Fireplace flue contains an excessive amount of creosote - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

Gas pipe penetrating the refractory needs to be sealed - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

Gas valve is inoperable

Refractor is cracked / deteriorated / or otherwise modified - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

The grate is not the same grate that came with the “Listed” fireplace system

The grate is installed backwards - (* This is a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

The doors are missing - (*Factory built fireplace require their “listed” components for use)

The doors require service for ease of operation

No screens present

The gas bib is too far forward

A wood burning / pellet stove was inserted into this box - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor evaluate)

Cracked materials in the hearthcopyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �26


NOTESLog set is too large for this fireplace (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The “burn pattern” on the refractory is not centered (DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is soot on the exterior of the fireplace suggesting poor drafting - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

The hearth extension is missing - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)

The hearth extension is too small - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)

The hearth extension is combustible material - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)

The hearth extension has been added - made of wood - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

There is insufficient clearance to combustible material surrounding the fireplace opening i.e. mantel etc… - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

The mantel is loose

Masonry Fireplace

Fireplace Is okay

Fireplace flue is cracked - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

Mortar is missing within the ___ Throat ___ Under the first liner ___ Firebox - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

Mortar is missing from within the fire brick / Tuck-and point is needed - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

The damper is frozen inoperable

The damper should be blocked in the open position with gas logs present - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

Screens are missing and therefore suggested

The grate is missing / Deteriorated

The gas valve is frozen

The hearth extension is higher than the inner hearth

The gas bib is too far forward

There is soot on the exterior of the fireplace suggesting poor drafting - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

The hearth extension is missing - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)



NOTESThe hearth extension is too small - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)

The hearth extension is combustible material - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)

The hearth extension has been added - made of wood - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

There is insufficient clearance to combustible material surrounding the fireplace opening i.e. mantel etc… - (* This may be a hazard and should be corrected prior to use)

The mantel is loose

Gas Appliance Fireplace

*This type of fireplace is suggested to be inspected by a profession with access to the installation standards and listed instructions prior to use.

The gas appliance operated by switch

There is a standing pilot - (*This may be a hazard)

Wood / Pellet Fireplace / Stove

*This type of fireplace (freestanding stove) is suggested to be inspected by a profession with access to the installation standards and listed instructions prior to use.

There is insufficient clearances to combustible materials at the Side / Front / Rear of this unit - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard - DO NOT USE FIREPLACE - Have contractor of this trade evaluate)

PLUMBINGDIY Tips:

1. Because you have no idea what condition the main sewer line is in by a visual inspection or even by simply running the water, we always suggest a main sewer line inspection prior to your purchase.

2. If the house was re-piped, you should consider looking into permits or warranties

3. If there is fire suppression present, have a professional inspect this system

4. The use of an infrared camera is strongly suggested when looking for leaks within the plumbing system



NOTES5. If you find that the house is more than 30 years old or there are trees in close proximity to the

front of the house - GET A SEWER LINE SCOPE / INSPECTION

Main Water SupplyMaterial Type ___________________

Material Size _________

Original / Replaced

RegulatorThe gas valve is frozen

There is NO regulator present (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Regulator is leaking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Regulator piping appears smaller than other piping leading into / out of regulator (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water Pressure* Test the water pressure by running multiple fixtures and placing a pressure gauge onto a hose bib which is regulated

The water pressure is okay 45-60 PSI

The water pressure is too low (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The water pressure is too high (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The water pressure drops from a normal 45-60 psi to 0-20 psi during use of multiple fixtures (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

PRV (Pressure Relief Valve located at the main water supply)

The PRV is okay

The PRV is leaking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The PRV is corroded (may leak) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Supply PipingThe water supply piping is: COPPER PLASTIC GALVANIZED



NOTES

COPPER Supply Piping*With copper piping you may experience a “ticking” noise when you test the hot water which is generally typical expansion and contraction

The copper supply piping is okay

The copper piping rattles or is noisy when fixtures are abruptly turned off (water hammering) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is surface corrosion where visible ( just inspect annually)

Piping not supported / strapped properly

Leaking was observed within the copper piping system (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The material looks like type “M” with a red stripe which is a thinner material (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is galvanized piping intermixed with the copper piping (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There are galvanized connections made directly not the copper piping (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Prior repairs were observed or disclosed (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous repairs here)

PLASTIC Supply Piping*With plastic piping you may experience a “ticking” noise when you test the hot water which is generally typical expansion and contraction

The plastic supply piping is okay

There is surface corrosion observed at various joints or connections


There is CPVC piping (which is a controversial material) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is Kitec piping (which is a controversial material) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is Polybutylene piping (which is a controversial material) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Leaking was observed within the piping system (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Prior repairs were observed or disclosed (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous repairs here)

Galvanized or copper materials intermixed with this plastic piping (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

GALVANIZED Supply PipingThe Galvanized supply piping is okay



NOTESSurface corrosion / blisters noted (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Significant reduction in water pressure when water was tested (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Patches noted in galvanized piping (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Prior repairs noted or disclosed by owners (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous repairs here)

Copper mixed with galvanized piping (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)


Copper connections made directly onto galvanized piping (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Drain-Waste-Vent PipingNo visible leaks at the time of the inspection

Leaking noted (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Drains sloped negatively (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Vent piping sloped negatively (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Corrosion observed at drain pipe connections (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Asbestos piping observed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Vent too close to trap

Added Drain pipe - (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

vent pipe too close to an openable window

Drain piping not supported / strapped properly

CLEAN OUTS

Clean-out missing front / rear

Missing cap

Newer Cap (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous repairs here)

Leaking Clean out (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Fuel SupplyFuel Type: Natural Gas / Propane

METER

Meter okay



NOTESMeter needs to be better protected by a Bollard pole

Meter too close to the garage air vent (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Meter too close to door or window (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Meter too close to grade

Gas pipe

Gas pipe okay

Missing drip legs / Sediment traps

Added line noted (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Incorrect materials for gas pipe (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Missing shutoff valve 3’ before appliance (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Metallic gas piping is not allowed outdoors in or within six inches of the ground.(unless wrapped or protected coating applied) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Incorrectly supported

Not protected below ground (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Gas leak detected (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water Heater

Capacity ____ Gallons

Year __________

Water-heater okay

Water heater is new - (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Water heater knocks

Bollard protection needed

Lacks Clearance to top / front / side / rear

Water heater lacks combustion / make-up air (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Fuel

Fuel leak (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Fuel line too short

Sediment trap missing

Fuel line too small

Fuel line incorrect materialscopyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �32


NOTESFuel line kinked

Fuel valve damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Temperature Pressure Relief Valve

TPR Flexible materials

TPR does not extend to the exterior

TPR too close to grade (min 6”-24” max) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

TPR drain incorrectly into a pan (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

TPR present / no drain pipe

TPR missing - (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

TPR drain pipe incorrect materials

TEE installed within the TPR drain pipe (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

TPR drain pipe too small (3/4” or less) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Too many 90 degree fittings in the TPR drain pipe

Unable to verify the termination point (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

TPR drain pipe kinked

Water Heater Base

Water heater base is damaged

Water heater base is stained (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous leaks here)

Water heater base possess mold (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water heater base is too small (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water heater base is sagging (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Pan is needed at the water heater base

Base is not 18” high (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water heater base is unstable (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water Heater straps

Missing straps (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Straps are loose (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Only one strap (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Straps not installed at 1/3 and 1/3 locations

Incorrect materials used

Water Heater Vent



NOTESVent is too close to combustible materials (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Vent is asbestos Transite (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Vent is incorrectly installed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Vent is sloped incorrectly (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Draft hood is missing / loose (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Thimble reducer needed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Screws suggested in vent connections

Water Heater Supply Piping

No shutoff valve installed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

No means to disconnect the water heater (union / valve)

Supply pipe kinked

Corrosion observed at the supply piping

GARAGEGeneral Conditions

Number of Vehicles 1 2 3 4 5 6 ____

Converted into living space (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Most of the garage was not fully visible

Garage SlabCracks observed in the garage (<.25”)

Cracks observed in the garage (>.25”) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Efflorescence in concrete

Slab is deteriorated (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Slab lacks minimum slope (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Garage slab is lower than exterior grade (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Stem wall significant cracking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Flammable material on floor

garage lower than driveway (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �34


NOTESMoisture seeping from under slab (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Concrete popping

Garage Separation WallHoles observed in separation wall (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Seal penetrations in separation wall (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Ladder in fire separation wall (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Air duct through separation wall (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks observed in the wall (<.25”)

Cracks observed in the wall (>.25”) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Garage Walls and CeilingStains in drywall (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous leaks here)

Missing drywall materials

Cracks observed in the wall (<.25”)

Cracks observed in the wall (>.25”) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Garage VentilationLouvers suggested in vents

Missing vent covers

Screens damaged

Vents covered-over

Vents needed

Garage Fire doorDoor does not self close (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Pet door installed fire door (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Fire door needs to be weather stripped / Smoke seal

Door sweep missing

Threshold loose / missing screws



NOTESDoor rubs frame / sill

Double cylinder deadbolt installed in door (*DIY TIP: Safety concern)

Door hardware missing

Door hardware worn

Fire door is a hollow core door-not fire rated (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Garage Side Man-DoorDoor is hollow core door - solid is suggested

Door is badly damaged / weathered

Door frame badly weathered

Needs weatherstripping

Door rubs frame / sill

Self closer needed - (*DIY TIP: Door leads to pool area - Safety concern)

Door hardware is worn / damaged

Garage FramingGarage framing is stained (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous leaks here)

Cracked wood framing members observed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Building paper torn deteriorated (*DIY TIP: Ask about previous leaks here)

Holes bored into framing exceed maximum size

Added framing observed (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Door or window added into wall (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Insect / moisture damaged wood framing

Vehicle Door(s) Rollup / Tilt up

Door binding noted

Damaged door noted

Lower seal damaged

Side seal damaged

Glass damaged

Wood moisture damaged

Metal panel(s) damaged



NOTES

Automatic Opener(s)Automatic retractor Okay

Automatic retractor missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Automatic retractor too high (+12”) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Door closes halfway then retracts when button pressed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Loose chain

Missing emergency pull cord

Very noisy closer

Cover missing

Lights non operational

Damaged non functional

Garage ElectricalGFIs suggested throughout

GFIs defective (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

non metallic wiring (romex) exposed and installed in hard way (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Added wiring throughout (*DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Electrical conduit improperly supported (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Plus not grounded (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Plugs are reversed polarity (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Plugs damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

plugs scorched (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Switches -unable to determine their function throughout

Damaged switches / receptacles (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Junction boxes missing cover plates (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Open knockouts in junction boxes (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Loose wiring, exposed wires not protected (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Garage StairsStair / Railing okay



NOTESTREADS

Stair treads are smaller than 10” (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Stair treads do not possess a “nosing”

Stair Risers are taller than 7 ¾” (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Stair risers / treads possess more than a 3/8” difference between them (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

RAILING

Railings are needed one one side when there are more than 4 risers (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Railings are loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Railings are not between 34-42”

Railings are damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The space between “pickets” is wider than 4” - (Hazard to small children) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Garage WindowsWindow is Okay

Window is cracked

Window is difficult to operate

Window is fogged

Window is inaccessible

ELECTRICALGeneral Comments

DIY Tips:

1. Some houses possess multiple electrical panels. We suggest printing this section as many times as necessary to accommodate the number of panels at your property.

All conditions listed below (if checked) require an additional inspection by a professional of this trade

All conditions are considered a hazard if checked

Service feed is UNDERGROUND / AERIAL



NOTES

Weather Head (Aerial Service)Overhead service is Okay

Weather head is damaged

Service mast is leaning / rusted / cracked / damaged

Service conductors are too small for this size home

Service conductors not attached to weather head mast or roof cleat

Roof cleat is loose or pulled away from roof deck

Bolts on roof cleat need to be sealed

Neutral wire disconnected from mast

Flashing into the roof is missing / needs sealant/ damaged

Service mast is located more then 48” from eave

Wire entering Weather head is closer than 18” to the roof deck

Service conductors not suggested to pass over the roof more than 6 feet

Service conductors must maintain these clearances:

• 8 feet over flat roof

• 10 feet over grade

• 10 feet over deck within 3 feet

• 12 feet over driveway

• 14.5 over diving board

• 15 feet over alley

• 18 feet over road

• 22.5 feet over swimming pool

Wire entering Weather head are frayed / connections are exposed

Service wires laying on the roof deck

Service mast suggested to be better supported

No drip loop observed

Service wires too close to trees / buildings

Underground Service Check to see if any trees are close to underground feeders



NOTESExposed underground wires observed

Exposed service feeder wires above grade

Service Panel CoverSPC is Okay

SPC is damaged

SPC is loose

SPC hinges missing / damaged / loose

SPC missing

Dead Front CoverDFC is okay

DFC is missing

DFC is damaged

DFC is missing screws

DFC is screws are pointed and not blunt

DFC is missing breaker labels

DFC breaker labels are worn

DFC is missing knockouts

DFC is not tight to breakers leaving a gap

DFC is not original to panel / replaced / modified

DFC is rusted / deteriorated

Service SizeThe service size is _________ amps

The panels rating is __________ amps

Wiring MethodsThe wiring appears to be Non Metallic cable (Romex)

The wiring is drawn through conduit

Bus Bar



NOTESThe bus bar looks okay

The bus bar is scorched / damaged

The bus bar appears to have been replaced

Infrared ObservationsNo visible issues

Heat in excess observed at one or more connections / breakers / wires

Circuit BreakersCircuit breakers okay

Damaged Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers not approved for this panel board

Circuit breakers scorched

Circuit breakers loose

Circuit breaker is tripped for unknown reasons

AFCI (blue button) recalled

GFCI breaker defective

Circuit breakers amps too large for appliance / circuit / wire

Panel WiringWiring looks okay

Wires scorched

Wires are corroded or deteriorated

Wires loose in panel not terminated

Two or more wires into one breaker

Wire is too small for breaker size

Wire / circuit is not protected by breaker / fuse (direct tap)

Neutral / Grounding BusPanel appears to be bonded

No visible bond observed (The bus bars appear to be floating)

Bus is deteriorated

Two or more neutral wires under one terminal



NOTESGround and neutral wire under one terminal

GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR disconnected

Equipotential BondingEQ bond is complete

EQ bond is not visible / missing

EQ bond was terminated in re-pipe

No EQ bond due to plastic water pipes

EQ bond present but not compete to gas and hot water pipes

EQ bond clamps loose

EQ bonding conductor is too small ( < #8 AWG )

Wiring TypeThe wire type is non metallic ( Romex)

The wire type is stranded wire pulled through conduit

The wire type is old Aluminum

The wire type is pre-1984 Non metallic ( Romex)

Grounding SystemThe GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR (GEC) was verified

There is no GEC installed

The GEC is incorrectly sized

The GEC is was not visible to verify

The GEC is spliced

There are two or more GROUNDING ELECTRODES

The GEC has been nullified

The GEC requires a bonding jumper

The GEC is subject to damage and not protected

The grounding rod electrode is exposed and not completely embedded

There is only one grounding electrode where two are required



NOTES

SUB-PANELGeneral comments

Sub Panel Service Panel CoverSPC is Okay

SPC is damaged

SPC is loose

SPC hinges missing / damaged / loose

SPC missing

Sub Panel Dead Front CoverDFC is okay

DFC is missing

DFC is damaged


DFC is screws are pointed and not blunt

DFC is missing breaker labels


DFC is missing knockouts

DFC is not tight to breakers leaving a gap

DFC is not original to panel / replaced / modified


Sub Panel Service SizeThe service size is _________ amps


Sub Panel Wiring MethodsThe wiring appears to be Non Metallic cable (Romex)


Sub Panel Bus BarThe bus bar looks okay



NOTESThe bus bar is scorched / damaged

The bus bar appears to have been replaced

Sub Panel Infrared ObservationsNo visible issues

Heat in excess observed at one or more connections / breakers / wires

Sub Panel Circuit BreakersCircuit breakers okay

Damaged Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers not approved for this panel board

Circuit breakers scorched

Circuit breakers loose

Circuit breaker is tripped for unknown reasons

AFCI (blue button) recalled

GFCI breaker defective

Circuit breakers amps too large for appliance / circuit / wire

Sub Panel WiringWiring looks okay

Wires scorched

Wires are corroded or deteriorated

Wires loose in panel not terminated

Two or more wires into one breaker

Wire is too small for breaker size

Wire / circuit is not protected by breaker / fuse (direct tap)

Sub Panel Neutral / Grounding BusThe neutral and grounding bus are separate

The sub panel appears to be incorrectly bonded to the equipment panel board

Neutral and grounding conductors are intermixed

Sub Panel Wiring TypeThe wire type is non metallic ( Romex)



NOTESThe wire type is stranded wire pulled through conduit



Sub Panel Grounding SystemThe GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR is present

There is no GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR

The GEC is disconnected

INTERIOR (room) ____________DIY Tips:

1. We suggest printing this section as many times as necessary to accommodate the number of bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms etc… at your property.

2. In many cases with an occupied property, much of the area within the house is blocked by the occupants belongings. There really isn't much you or any inspector can do about this as many inspectors including yourself are not suggested to move the occupants belongings without permission.

ElectricalSWITCHES

Switches are verified and functional

Unable to verify switch operation (location: __________________________________________)

Damaged switches observe (location: __________________________________________)

Upside-down switches observed (location: __________________________________________)

RECEPTACLES

The receptacles are functional

There are receptacles which do not operate (location: _________________________________)

There are receptacles which are scorched (location: ___________________________________) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are receptacles which are cracked (location: ___________________________________) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are receptacles which are not switched (1/2 hot required when there are no lights) (location: __________________________________________)



NOTESAFCI receptacles still “ON” when breaker tripped where applicable (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

GFCI receptacles needed / required (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

GFCI receptacles defective (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

LUMINARIES

Ceiling lights are functional

Ceiling lights with non operational light bulbs

Ceiling lights with missing / damaged globes

Added recessed light fixtures (DIY TIP: Check for permits)

Loose recessed light fixtures

WIRING / CONDUIT

Open junction boxes / exposed wires (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Electrical conduit installed and is not secured

Exposed non metallic wiring AKA romex (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

CEILING FAN

Ceiling fan is functional

Ceiling fan is non operational

Ceiling fan wobbles

Ceiling fan is not hard wired

Missing fan blades

CEILING FAN LIGHTS

Lights are functional

Light bulbs non operational

Missing glass globes

Interior DoorsINTERIOR DOORS



NOTESInterior doors are functional

Interior doors are damaged (location: __________________________________________)

Interior doors are unpainted (location: __________________________________________)

Interior doors are non operational (location: __________________________________________)

Interior door rubs frame / floor

interior door binds

INTERIOR DOOR HARDWARE

Interior door hardware is functional

Double key deadbolts observed ___________________ (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Interior door hardware is damaged / worn

Interior door hardware is non operational

Interior door hardware is loose

Door hinges loose

Exterior DoorsSLIDING GLASS DOORS

Sliding glass doors are functional

Sliding glass doors are difficult to slide

Sliding glass door sill deteriorated

Sliding glass doors are cracked

Glass in door is fogged (condensation in pane)

Door hardware will not lock

Door hardware missing

Door hardware loose

SLIDING GLASS DOOR SCREEN

The Screen door is Okay

The screen door is missing

The screen door is damaged

The screen door will not open

The screen door hardware is worn



NOTESFRENCH DOORS

French doors are functional

French doors are difficult to slide / open

French doors sill deteriorated

Double key deadbolts observed ___________________ (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

French doors are cracked

Glass in French doors are fogged (condensation in pane)

French doors hardware will not lock

French doors hardware missing

French doors hardware loose

Stationary door is non function

MAN DOOR TO EXTERIOR

Man Door Observations

Man door is functional

Man door is damaged

Man door is unpainted

Man door is non operational

Man door is rubs frame / floor

Man door binds

Man door glass cracked / inoperative

MAN DOOR SCREEN

The Screen door is Okay

The screen door is missing

The screen door is damaged

The screen door will not open

The screen door hardware is worn

WindowsWINDOW TYPE: __________________________________copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �48


NOTES

WINDOW MATERIALS: VINYL WOOD ALUMINUM

WINDOW OBSERVATIONS

The windows tested were functional

There were cracked windows(*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There were inoperable windows

There are damaged sash balancers / cords

There were cracked window frames

Leaking windows observed

Windows were difficult to operate

Inner rubber seal is loose

Double pane glass is fogged / seal damaged

WINDOW SCREENS

The window screens were collectively okay

Worn / damaged screens noted

Missing screens noted

WINDOW HARDWARE

The window hardware is functional

Missing window hardware observed

Worn window hardware observed

There is missing window hardware

WINDOW WEATHERSTRIPPING

The window weatherstripping is functional

There is missing weatherstripping

Window weatherstripping is suggested

FlooringFLOORING MATERIALS: TILE CARPET WOOD LAMINATE OTHER: ____________________copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �49


NOTES

The interior flooring is okay

The interior flooring is worn in excess / moderately

Loose carpet observed

Cracked floor tile observed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Hollow floor tile noted

Floor tile grout missing

The interior flooring is installed in amateurish manner

There is interior flooring which is missing

Wood flooring water damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Wood flooring is buckled

Open gaps in wood flooring

Vinyl flooring is in need of sealant

Loose vinyl flooring

Seal vinyl flooring connection to the bathtub

Damaged vinyl flooring

Stained vinyl flooring

WallsThe interior walls were in generally good condition

Holes were observed within interior walls

Stains were observed in interior walls (*DIY TIP: Ask sellers of any knowledge of previous damage)

Mold was observed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks noted in the walls (1/8” 1/4” 1/2”) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Moisture damaged wall covering noted (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

CeilingsThe ceilings were functional

There were stains in the interior ceilings(*DIY TIP: Ask sellers of any knowledge of previous damage)



NOTESThere were popcorn ceiling materials (*DIY TIP: This material has been known to contain Asbestos - testing is suggested)

There were prior repairs noted (*DIY TIP: Ask sellers of any knowledge of previous damage)

Holes in ceilings noted

Cracks observed in the ceilings (1/8” 1/4” 1/2”) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

EgressEGRESS WINDOWS AND DOORS

All conditions listed below (if checked) require an additional inspection by a professional of this trade

All conditions are considered a hazard if checked

There is only one door for entry and exit

The window sills are higher than 44” from the floor

The basement does not have any operable windows or doors that leads to the exterior

The window in the basement does not allow for safe exit to the exterior of the building

The window well in the basement does not possess a ladder

Interior BarThe bar faucet, sink and plumbing was functional

The bar faucet was non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The bar faucet hot / cold water is non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The bar plumbing leaks (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The drain trap is an “S” trap

CabinetryThe cabinet is functional

The cabinet is damaged

The cabinet is not secured to the wall

The cabinet doors are loose / need adjustment

There are missing doors at the cabinet

Sky-LightsThe skylight appear functional

The skylight is cracked (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �51


NOTESStains were observed under the skylight (*DIY TIP: Ask sellers of any knowledge of previous damage) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

STAIRSStair Railing

The stair railing was acceptable

The stair railing opening is wider than 6” (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The railing is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The railing is loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The balusters are loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The railing is too low (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The railing is too high (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Stair TreadsThe stair treads were okay

The stair treads are not uniform in their width (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The stair treads are not uniform in their tread projection (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The stair treads are not uniform in their height (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Loose stair treads were observed (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

LAUNDRYGeneral CommentsLAUNDRY AREA LOCATION: INTERIOR / EXTERIOR

Supply pipingThe supply piping is in acceptable condition

The angle stop on the hot / cold side was corroded

The angle stop hot / cold was leaking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hot / cold water supply was not functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �52


NOTES

WasteThe drain line was functional

The drain line was blocked (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Gas SupplyThe gas valve is okay

The gas valve is leaking (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The gas valve handle is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Electrical 120V SUPPLY

The Receptacle is okay

The receptacle is not grounded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The receptacle has reversed polarity (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The receptacle is non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The receptacle is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The cover plate is missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

240V SUPPLY

The 240 Receptacle is okay

The 240 receptacle is not grounded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The 240 receptacle is non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The 240 receptacle is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The cover plate is missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Dryer DuctThe dryer duct is okay

The dryer duct appears blocked (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The dryer duct is too long (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dryer duct is not made of rigid metal (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dryer duct vents vertically with no clean out (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The dryer duct has screws which penetrate the duct

Cabinetry



NOTESThe cabinet is functional

The cabinet is damaged

The cabinet is not secured to the wall

The cabinet doors are loose / need adjustment

There are missing doors at the cabinet

Combustion / Make-up AirThe combustion / make up air is okay

The combustion / make up air is insufficient (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Room VentilationThe room ventilation is okay

The room ventilation non functional (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The room ventilation fan is noisy (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The room ventilation fan is dirty (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The room ventilation fan is loose / hanging from the ceiling (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Washing Machine PanThe washing machine pan is okay

The washing machine pan is damaged

The washing machine pan is needed

Laundry SinkThe laundry sink faucet, sink and plumbing was functional

The laundry sink faucet was non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The laundry sink faucet hot / cold water is non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The laundry sink plumbing leaks (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hot and cold water lines are reversed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

ElectricalSWITCHES




NOTESUnable to verify switch operation (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Damaged switches observe (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Upside-down switches observed

RECEPTACLES


There are receptacles which do not operate (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There are receptacles which are scorched (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are receptacles which are cracked (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are receptacles which are not switched (1/2 hot required when there are no lights) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

AFCI receptacles still “ON” when breaker tripped where applicable (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



LUMINARIES




Added recessed light fixtures (*DIY TIP: Check for a building permit)


KITCHENGeneral Comments

The kitchen was remodeled. Request documentation or permits for any work performed. (*DIY TIP: Check for a building permit)

ElectricalSWITCHES


Unable to verify switch operation




NOTESUpside-down switches observed

RECEPTACLES


There are receptacles which do not operate

No GROUND FAULT receptacle in Island (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Island receptacle is more than 12” from the surface (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Island receptacle counter top extends more than 6” past the receptacle (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)


There are receptacles which are cracked (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are receptacles which are not switched (*DIY TIP: Check for a building permit)



LUMINARIES


Ceiling lights with non operational light bulbs (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)




WIRING / CONDUIT


Electrical conduit installed and is not secured (*DIY TIP: Check for a building permit)


CEILING FAN

Ceiling fan is functional

Ceiling fan is non operational

Added ceiling fans (*DIY TIP: Check for a building permit)

Ceiling fan wobbles

Ceiling fan is not hard wired (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTESMissing fan blades

CEILING FAN LIGHTS

Lights are functional

Light bulbs non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Missing globes

Countertop COUNTERTOP MATERIALS: TILE GRANITE SOLID SURFACE FORMICA CONCRETE

Countertop ObservationsThe countertop materials were in acceptable condition

The countertop material possess cracks / chips / damage

The countertop materials possess raised / lower seams

The countertop material is loose

The countertop material missing

There was no backsplash present

Missing backsplash materials noted

Kitchen SinkSINK

The kitchen sink is Okay

The kitchen sink is cracked

The kitchen sink needs caulking between sink and countertop

The kitchen sink is rusted

The kitchen sink is chipped

FAUCETThe faucet is okay

The faucet drips

The faucet leaks at the stem

The faucet is non functional

The faucet is loose

The faucet only provides hot / cold water (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hot and cold water lines are reversed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �57


NOTESDRAIN / TRAP

The drain trap is okay

The drain trap is corroded as if to suggest a current or prior leak

The drain trap is an “S” trap (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The drain trap arm is too long / too short to weir (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Crown venting is noted here

Island drain is not vented correctly (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

ANGLE-STOPS AND CONNECTORS

The angel stop is okay

The angel stop is / are corroded (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The angel stop is leaking hot / cold (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The angel stop is missing a handle hot / cold (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Garbage DisposalThe garbage disposal is okay

The garbage disposal is non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The garbage disposal noisy (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The garbage disposal is leaking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The garbage disposal is missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The garbage disposal is frozen (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The garbage disposal is missing a splash guard

Kitchen CabinetsThe kitchen cabinets were okay

The kitchen cabinets were missing doors / drawers

The kitchen cabinets need adjustment

The kitchen cabinets were damaged

The kitchen cabinets were peeling

The kitchen cabinets were missing hardware

The kitchen cabinets in overall poor condition (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The base under the kitchen sink was damaged

The base under the kitchen sink has mold (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTESThe base under the kitchen sink needs to be replaced (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The base under the kitchen sink was missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Gas / Electric Cook topThe cooktop was functional

The cooktop tilts forward and is not secured (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Burners were not functional on the cook top RR RF LR LF

Grates were missing from cook top

Missing knobs were noted

The electric control panel was damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Gas off not tested

Igniter was damaged non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

NUMBER OF OVENS: 1 2 3 4

Gas / Electric OvenThe ovens are / is functional

The upper / lower oven was non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The upper / lower oven door hinge was damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The upper / lower oven glass is damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The upper / lower oven door does not seal

The upper / lower oven was light was not functional

The upper / lower oven control panel was damaged / non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The upper / lower oven was failed to heat (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Exhaust Ventilation / LightThe exhaust fan and light were functional

The exhaust fan was non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The exhaust fan was very noisy (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The exhaust fan was missing filter

The exhaust fan does not duct to the exterior (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The light was non operational



NOTESThe light was flickering

The light was missing not tested

DishwasherThe dishwasher is functional

The dishwasher is leaking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dishwashers seal is old / worn

The dishwasher is loose /not secured

The dishwasher racks are rusted damaged

The dishwasher is very noisy (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dishwasher is leaking from the air gap device (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dishwasher is missing an air gap device (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dishwasher is non operational

The dishwasher is tripping the circuit (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The dishwasher display is damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

BATHROOMS(*Additional pages can be printed from our website for individual bathrooms)

ElectricalSWITCHES


Unable to verify switch operation (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)


Upside-down switches observed

RECEPTACLES


There are receptacles which do not operate (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)




NOTESThere are receptacles which are cracked (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are receptacles which are not switched (1/2 hot required when there are no lights)

AFCI receptacles still “ON” when breaker tripped where applicable (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



LUMINARIES






WIRING / CONDUIT


Electrical conduit installed and is not secured


ToiletThe toilet was functional

The toilet is not low flow

The toilet runs continually

The toilet bowl / tank / base is cracked

The toilet is loose at the tank / floor

The toilet does not flush properly

SinkThe bathroom sink is Okay (Double L / R)

The bathroom sink is cracked (Double L / R)

The bathroom sink needs caulking between sink and countertop (Double L / R)

The bathroom sink is rusted (Double L / R)

The bathroom sink is chipped (Double L / R)

FAUCET



NOTESThe faucet is okay (Double L / R)

The faucet drips (Double L / R)

The faucet leaks at the stem (Double L / R)

The faucet is non functional (Double L / R)

The faucet is loose (Double L / R)

The faucet only provides hot / cold water (Double L / R) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hot and cold water lines are reversed (Double L / R)

DRAIN / TRAP

The drain trap is okay (Double L / R)

The drain trap is corroded as if to suggest a current or prior leak (Double L / R)

The drain trap is an “S” trap (Double L / R) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The drain trap arm is too long / too short to weir (Double L / R) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Crown venting is noted here (Double L / R)

ANGLE-STOPS AND CONNECTORS

The angel stop is okay (Double L / R)

The angel stop is / are corroded (Double L / R)

The angel stop is leaking hot / cold (Double L / R) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The angel stop is missing a handle hot / cold (Double L / R)

Ventilation FanThe ventilation fan is operational

The ventilation fan is noisy (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The ventilation fan is non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The ventilation fan is loose at the ceiling

The ventilation fan is missing the cover

The ventilation fan needs to be cleaned

Bathtub / Shower enclosure



NOTESThe Bathtub / Shower enclosure is functional

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure chipped / cracked

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure drains slowly (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure leaks

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure water valves leak (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure water valves are reversed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure water valves were non operational hot / cold side (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure produce low water volume hot / cold side (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure water valve(s) / handle(s) are loose

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure water valve handle is missing

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure door is missing / damaged / off track

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure is heavily worn including chips and cracks in fiberglass

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure have missing / cracked tile

The Bathtub / Shower enclosure needs caulking throughout

The tile shower pan leaks (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Hydromassage BathtubThe hydromassage bathtub jets were functional

The hydromassage bathtub is not installed on a solid substrate (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hydromassage bathtub does not possess a GROUND FAULT for protection (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The hydromassage bathtub GROUND FAULT is defective (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The hydromassage bathtub is not on a dedicated circuit (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The GROUND FAULT is too far from the hydromassage bathtub (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The hydromassage bathtub is not bonded (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The hydromassage bathtub air switch is non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hydromassage bathtub air switch is temperamental

The hydromassage bathtub jets low volume (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)copyright diyinspectionchecklist.com 2018 �63


NOTESEyeballs missing

The hydromassage bathtub jets are non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hydromassage bathtub is leaking at supply lines (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The hydromassage bathtub was added (*DIY TIP: Check for a building permit)

VanityThe vanity was functional

The vanity was missing

The vanity was added

The vanity was missing doors

The vanity was missing countertop

There is no backsplash

Damaged countertop

ATTICATTIC ACCESS LOCATION: _____________________

Attic AccessThe attic was fully accessible

The attic was not accessible at all

The attic was accessible only on the furnace platform

The attic was only partially accessible

The attic access was limited due to the occupants belongings

Attic InsulationThe attic is insulated with:

Fiberglass batt | Mineral (rock or slag) wool | Cellulose | Vermiculite | Urea Formaldehyde Foam | Asbestos

The attic was insulated with ___________ inches of insulation

There was poor coverage (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTESThere was loose / missing insulation (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The insulation appears to be rodent damaged (urine / feces) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The insulation is compressed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The insulation may be a hazardous material (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The insulation is cellulose pre 1979 (may be flammable) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Attic FramingThe attic framing appears to be in generally good condition

The attic framing has stains consistent with potential leaking (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic framing is moisture damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic framing has been structurally modified (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate & check for permits)

The attic framing has been removed or otherwise modified (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate & check for permits)

The attic framing appears to have been in a fire (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate & check for permits)

The attic framing appears to have been repaired (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate & check for permits)

The attic framing appears undersized for the roofing material installed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There are damaged wood members within the attic (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Attic VentilationThe attic ventilation is functional

The attic ventilation is marginal (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic ventilation is missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic ventilation needs improving (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic ventilation fan is inoperable (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic ventilation fan is damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Attic ElectricalThe attic electrical is functional

There are loose wires in the attic (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There are open junction boxes in the attic (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



NOTESThere is loose “Romex” NM cable in the attic

There are recessed lights too close to insulation or wood (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Wiring appears to have been damaged by rodents (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Attic Exhaust DuctsThe attic exhaust ducts appear functional

The attic exhaust ducts need to extend to the exterior (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic exhaust ducts are crushed

The attic exhaust ducts are disconnected from fan (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Factory Built Chimney Flue / Fire StopThe fireplace vent / fires stop is functional

The fireplace vent is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The fireplace vent is too close to wood or insulation (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The fireplace vent is disconnected (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The fireplace fire stop is missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The fireplace fire stop is incomplete (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The fireplace fire stop is not a listed component (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Masonry Chimney ObservationsThe masonry chimney appears functional

The masonry chimney bricks need re-pointing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The masonry chimney is too close to wood (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The masonry chimney is not strapped in accordance with building code (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The masonry chimney appears damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The masonry chimney appears modified or repaired (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate & check for permits)

Attic Separation wall (Condo / Town-house)The attic separation wall is functional

The attic separation wall is damaged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic separation wall possesses holes (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The attic separation wall is missing or incomplete (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTES

Heating System FORCED AIR UNITLOCATION:AGE:

Heating System ObservationsThe heating system was functional

The heating system was not operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The gas was off

The furnace is red-tagged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The furnace is a floor furnace and needs to be inspected by a professional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Combustion ChamberThe Combustion chamber is clean

The combustion chamber is filled with rust and is deteriorated (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cracks are visible within the heat exchangers (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The unit appears to draft improperly (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

“Roll-out” was observed upon starting the furnace (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The flame pattern is erratic - further evaluation is needed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Water appears to be leaking into the combustion chamber (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

VentingThe vent is functional

The vent is too close to combustion material (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The vent is disconnected (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The vent is incorrectly sloped (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The vent is deteriorated / rusted (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The vent is stained (roof leaking) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is single wall vent within the attic (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTESThere is Transite installed here (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There is a gap from the 3” to 4” connection (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The draft inducer is very noisy (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Fuel SupplyThe fuel supply is operational

The fuel supply does not possess a sediment trap (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The fuel supply valve leaks (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The fuel supply possess aluminum or brass flex gas line

The fuel supply flex enters through the side wall of the furnace cabinet (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The fuel supply flex line is kinked

Combustion / Make up AirThe supply air to the furnace is acceptable

The supply air to the furnace is limited (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The supply air to the furnace is missing

The supply air to the furnace is missing screens

The supply air to the furnace possess attic screens

Evaporative CoilThe Evaporative coil is acceptable

The Evaporative coil is new

The Evaporative coil is leaking water (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Evaporative coil is leaking air

The Evaporative coil is deteriorated (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Circulating FanThe circulating fan is functional

The circulating fan is noisy

The circulating fan out of balance

The circulating fan is very dirty

The circulating fas belt is loose



NOTES

Condensate Drain(s)The condensate drains are functional

The condensate drain (primary) / (Secondary) is clogged (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condensate drain leaks from the secondary (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condensate drain pan is filled with water (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The secondary condensate drains are not installed over a window (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condensate drain (primary) is kinked (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condensate drains not installed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condensate drains into a pump - ensure the pump is functional

The condensate drains termination is not visible or cannot be located (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Thermostat(s)The thermostat is functional

The thermostat is loose

The thermostat is non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The thermostat is defective

The thermostat is in the wrong place (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Return AirThe return air base is functional

The return air base needs to be sealed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The return air base is under the furnace closet door

The return air is in the wrong location

The house is 2 story with only one return air (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The return air is located too close to the kitchen or laundry room (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)(*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

AIR CONDITIONERSIZE: 1 TON 2 TONS 3 TONS 4 TONS 5 TONS AGE: ___________



NOTES

General ObservationsThe air condition system appears to be functional

The condenser is newer (ask about installation by professional / permits)

The condenser was moved - (check for permits)

Not accessible for inspection

The condenser is at the end of its life (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condenser is out of level

The condenser is under / over sized for square footage (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condenser is turning on and off repeatedly (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The coil is damaged (fins are smashed)

The condenser is very dirty

The condenser is not secured to the slab / 3” from grade

The condenser is too close to adjacent walls or plants (12”)

The condenser is too close to irrigation

The condenser is too close to the pool (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condenser is too close to the dryer vent termination (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The condensers fan is imbalanced

The condenser is making unusual noises (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

ElectricalThe electrical is functional

The sub panel needs to be sealed to the wall

The sub panel is missing its inner cover - exposed wiring (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The sub panel is not secured to the wall

The sub panel is located behind the condenser - hazardous location (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The sub panel is missing knockouts (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Conduit is disconnected from the sub panel / condenser (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The sub panel possess fuses which are too large for the condenser (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The sub panel is missing fuses

Refrigerant LinesThe refrigerant lines are acceptable



NOTESThe refrigerant lines are missing insulation

The refrigerant lines possess deteriorated foam

The refrigerant lines are run underground (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The refrigerant lines are lying on grade

The refrigerant lines are uninsulated inside the wall (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The refrigerant lines are not supported properly

The copper refrigerant lines are connected to galvanized straps

Temperature DifferentialThe temperature differential is acceptable (18 - 21 degrees)

The temperature differential is unacceptable

REGISTERS AND DUCTSFlexible Ducts

The flexible ducts are acceptable

The flexible ducts have damaged vapor barriers

The flexible ducts are disconnected

The flexible ducts are kinked / crushed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Sealant is needed at a couple / multiple connections

The flexible ducts are installed incorrectly (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The flexible ducts are newer replaced (*DIY TIP: Ask the seller of any knowledge of this)

Asbestos DuctsThe Asbestos ducts are in-tact - undisturbed

The Asbestos ducts are damaged - friable (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Rigid Fiberglass / Metal DuctsThe rigid fiberglass / metal ducts are acceptable

The rigid fiberglass / metal ducts are unwrapped / damaged / split



NOTESThe rigid fiberglass / metal ducts are crushed (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The rigid fiberglass / metal ducts are disconnected (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Thermostatically Controlled DampersThe Thermostatically Controlled Dampers work as intended

The Thermostatically Controlled Dampers leak (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Thermostatically Controlled Dampers are non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

RegistersThe registers are acceptable

The registers are non operational in the _______________________ room (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The registers have very low volume in the ______________________ room (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There were register covers missing

SWIMMING POOL AND SPAOPERATION MODE - The pool was on / off at the time of the inspection

Water Fill and OverflowFILLER TYPE

The filler valve is: Automatic | Manual

WATER FILLER VALVE

The water filler valve is operational

The water filler valve is leaking

The water filler valve non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

AUTO FILLER

The auto fill valve is functional

The auto fill valve float is damaged / missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The auto fill valve is leaking



NOTESThe auto fill valve is stuck

OVERFLOW DRAIN

The overflow drain is present

The overflow drain is missing

FILLED BY WATER HOSE

The pool is filled by a water hose

Disinfectant typeCHLORINE DISINFECTANT

SALT DISINFECTANT

OTHER DISINFECTANT TYPE___________________________________

Pool TileThe pool tile is functional

The pool tile is missing

The pool tile is cracked

The pool tile is loose

The pool tile is calcium stained

The pool tile is new or replaced

Pools Interior Finish MaterialPLASTER FINISH

PEBBLE FINISH

CopingCOPING MATERIAL

The coping is concrete

The coping is stone or brick



NOTESCOPING OBSERVATIONS

The coping is functional

The coping is cracked

The coping is raised / settled

The coping is loose

The coping is missing

The coping is otherwise damaged

Elastomeric sealant is needed between pool coping and deck

Pool DeckDECK MATERIAL

The pool deck is concrete / stone / brick / pavers / missing / other ______________________

DECK OBSERVATIONS

The pool deck is functional

The pool deck is cracked - large / small

The pool deck is settled or raised (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pool deck is sloped towards the pool (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pool deck is sloped towards the house (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

SkimmerThe skimmer is functional

The skimmer is cracked (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The skimmer needs to be sealed at the top connection to deck (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The skimmer has only one port

The skimmer is older concrete type (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The skimmer is older metal type (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The skimmer is missing its weir gate

Pool DrainsThe swimming pool drains are anti entrapment type and functional

The swimming pool drains are non anti entrapment type (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The swimming pool drains are less than 3 feet apart



NOTESThe swimming pool drains are cracked / damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The swimming pool drains are missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The swimming pool drains are sealed / missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Cleaner MachineThe cleaner is present and functional

The cleaner is not moving (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The cleaner is damaged

The cleaner is in need of repair (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The cleaner is piped into the skimmer

LightingThe Lighting is GROUND FAULT protected and functional

The Lighting is not GROUND FAULT protected (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The Lighting GROUND FAULT is defective (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The Lighting is missing a switch (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The Lighting was non operational pool / spa (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The Light(s) is / are missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Diving Board / Diving RockThe diving board present is functional

The diving board is cracked / fiberglass fibers showing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The diving board is loose (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The diving board bolts are rusted / deteriorated (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The diving board is not bonded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

SlideThe slide present is functional

The slide is cracked / fiberglass fibers showing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The slide is loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The slide bolts are rusted / deteriorated

The slide is not bonded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



NOTES

Ladder / RailingThe ladder or railing is functional

The ladder or railing is loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The ladder or railing is rusted

The ladder or railing is not bonded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Pool PumpsCIRCULATION PUMP

The pump is bonded and functional

The pump is non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pump is not bonded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The pump is not secured to the slab

The pump leaks at the pump / motor connection (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pump leaks at the lid

The pump basket is damaged / missing

The pump cavitates (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pump is leaking at the pipe connection in / out (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The front pipe is too short into the pump

The pump wiring is loose / detached (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The pump does not possess a shutoff switch at the equipment (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

SPA JET PUMP












NOTESThe front pipe is too short into the pump



WATER FEATURE PUMP













OTHER PUMP PUMPS USE ______________________









The pump is leaking at the pipe connection in / out






NOTESDIRECT PRESSURE PUMP











Air BlowerThe air blower is functional

The air blower is non operational

The air blower is loose at the post connection

The air blower possess loose / exposed wiring (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The air blower is not bonded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The air blower does not possess a back-flow valve

PipingThe pool piping is functional

The pool piping needs support

The pool piping is leaking suction line / return line (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pool piping needs to be painted

The pool piping is cracked (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pool piping is too small (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The pool piping possess too many 90’s (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

ValvesThe valves are functional

The valves leak suction / return lines (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)



NOTESThe valves have missing handles

The valves are automatic and non functional (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The automatic valves do not operate with remotes (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

FiltrationThe filter is functional

The filter leaks band gasket / pressure gauge / backwash (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The filter has high pressure (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The filter is too small (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The filter allows debris back into the pool (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The filter pressure gauge is damaged

The filter backwash housing is missing (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Heating SystemThe heating system was functional AND bonded

The heating system short cycles

The heating system was not functional

The heating system is too close to the property line

The heating system vent is too close to a window / combustible material / wall

The heating system is not bonded (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Gas PipingThe gas pipe appears function (always pressure test the gas line prior to purchase)

The gas pipe is laying on grade (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Gas leak noted (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The gas pipe is missing a shutoff valve (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The gas pipe is not sleeved through the slab

The gas pipe is rusted and deteriorated (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The gas pipe was added without a permit (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The gas pipe is not secured

The gas pipe is too small



NOTES

ElectricalEQUIPOTENTIAL BONDING TO GRID

The bond wire is visible and assumed to be tied into the pool body, decking etc…

There is no visible bonding wire (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The bond wire is too small (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The bond wire is not connected to :_____________________________ (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

RECEPTACLES


The GROUND FAULT receptacles are functional

There are receptacles which were non operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

There were receptacles with missing / damaged cover plates (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There wasn’t at least one receptacle not less than 6’ and not more than 20’ from the inside pool wall (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The receptacles located between 6-20’ were not GROUND FAULT protected (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

There were receptacles located less than 6’ from the pools edge (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

ELECTRIC PANEL

Sub Panel Service Panel CoverSPC is Okay

SPC is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

SPC is loose (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

SPC hinges missing / damaged / loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

SPC missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Sub Panel Dead Front CoverDFC is okay

DFC is missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

DFC is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)


DFC is screws are pointed and not blunt (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



NOTESDFC is missing breaker labels (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)


DFC is missing knockouts (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

DFC is not tight to breakers leaving a gap (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

DFC is not original to panel replaced / modified (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)


Sub Panel Service SizeThe service size is _________ amps


Sub Panel Wiring MethodsThe wiring appears to be Non Metallic cable (Romex)


Sub Panel Bus BarThe bus bar looks okay

The bus bar is scorched / damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The bus bar appears to have been replaced (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Sub Panel Infrared ObservationsNo visible issues

Heat in excess observed at one or more connections / breakers / wires (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Sub Panel Circuit BreakersCircuit breakers okay

Damaged Circuit breakers (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Circuit breakers not approved for this panel board (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Circuit breakers scorched (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Circuit breakers loose (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Circuit breaker is tripped for unknown reasons (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

AFCI (blue button) recalled (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

GFCI breaker defective (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



NOTESCircuit breakers amps too large for appliance / circuit / wire (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Sub Panel WiringWiring looks okay

Wires scorched (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Wires are corroded or deteriorated (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Wires loose in panel not terminated (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Two or more wires into one breaker (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Wire is too small for breaker size (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Wire / circuit is not protected by breaker / fuse (direct tap) (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Sub Panel Neutral / Grounding BusThe neutral and grounding bus are separate

The sub panel appears to be incorrectly bonded to the equipment panel board (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Neutral and grounding conductors are intermixed (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Sub Panel Wiring TypeThe wire type is non metallic ( Romex)

The wire type is stranded wire pulled through conduit



Sub Panel Grounding SystemThe GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR is present

There is no GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The GEC is disconnected (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

TIMER BOX

The timer box was functional and safe

The cover protecting the electrical connections is missing (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

The timer box is loose (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

The timer box is damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



NOTESConduit is loose / disconnected from the timer box (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

REMOTE CONTROLS

The remote control was functional within the home / spa

The remote control was non functional where tested (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

OTHER ELECTRICAL

There were loose / exposed wiring within the pool equipment area

There is metal conduit that is deteriorated / damaged (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Switches which cannot be determined (function) (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Other receptacles which were not operational (*DIY TIP: Have contractor evaluate)

Lights which were added around the pool which are too close (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Loose wiring not terminated properly (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)

Open junction boxes (*DIY TIP: This is a hazard)



DIY CHECKLIST IN PAGES copy 3 - Mazza Inspections...Attic Insulation 64 Attic Framing 65 Attic...

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Transcript of DIY CHECKLIST IN PAGES copy 3 - Mazza Inspections...Attic Insulation 64 Attic Framing 65 Attic...