Disposal of Fashion Waste

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    FASH ION DI SPOSAL

    OR

    DI SPOSAL OF FASH ION WASTE

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    NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE

    ARESEARCH REPORT

    ON

    FASHION DISPOSAL/ DISPOSAL OF FASHION WASTE

    RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

    Under the guidance of :

    Ms.GulnazBano

    NIFT, Bangalore

    13th

    of May, 2013

    Submitted By :EktaArgal

    Nikita Prasad

    ShaliniSinha

    FD-VI

    Batch 2010-1014

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    DECLARATION

    We, EktaArgal, Nikita Prasad and ShaliniSinha hereby declare that the Research Study

    document submitted to the Department of Fashion Design, NIFT, Bangalore as part of our

    academic requirements is an original work done by us under the supervision of Ms.

    GulnazBano, MFM, NIFT, Bangalore.

    EktaArgal

    Nikita Prasad

    ShaliniSinha

    Faculty Guide

    Ms.GulnazBano

    MFM, NIFT, Bangalore

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    CERTIFICATE

    This is to certify that EktaArgal, Nikita Prasad and ShaliniSinha, SemesterVI, Batch 2010-

    2014has undergone the Reseach Study on Fashion Disposal/ Disposal of Fashion Waste.

    Also, certified that this Research Methodology Document is their bonafide work.

    EktaArgal

    Nkita Prasad

    ShaliniSinha

    Place : Bangalore

    Date :13.5.2013

    Ms. GulnazBano

    Department of Masters of

    Fashion Management

    NIFT, Bangalore

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    ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

    This work is not a sole endeavour but rather an integrated effort of many individuals

    directedtowards the same goal. We feel indebted to several authors and researchers who helped us

    in the secondary data collection as well as in understanding of various issues relating to our topic.

    We would like to extend our gratitude towards the college NIFT, for providing us opportunity ofcarrying out this research. We would also like to thank our Director Mr. Shivalingam Sir NIFT,

    Bangalore, our Mentor Ms. GulnazBano for her support, patience and excellent correctionsand all

    those people who directly or indirectly has helped us in the Data-Collection process. This document

    would not have seen the light of the day without their cooperation.

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    CONTENT

    CHAPTER NAME PAGE NO.

    1.

    2.

    3.

    4.

    5.

    6.

    Introduction

    Review of Literature

    Research Methodology

    Data Analysis

    Conclusion

    Suggestion

    Appendix: Annexure

    1

    2

    3-4

    5-12

    13

    14

    CONTENTCONTENT

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    List of Figures

    S No. Description Page

    1 Consumer shopping behavior 5

    2 No. of clothes purchased by a consumer 6

    3 Wardrobe culling habit 7

    4 Clothes disposal by a consumer 7

    5 Trend conscious consumer 8

    6 Are u aware of eco-friendly fashion 9

    7 Do you find trendy apparels in eco-friendly store 10

    8 Are Consumers Willing To Accept A Take Back System For

    Clothing

    11

    9 Venn diagram showing methods of disposal of clothin by consumers 11

    10 Are Consumers Willing To Pay More For Bio Degradable Disposable

    Garments

    12

    11 Venn diagram showing criteria if purchasing in fast fashion stores by

    consumers

    12

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    CHAPTER 1

    INTRODCTION

    CONTENT

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    Executive Summary

    Now-a-days, with the development in technology, fashion industry has become far more

    affordable to millions of consumer but at the same time it is one of the most polluting and

    waste generating sectors in the world.Globalization has made it possible to produce clothingat increasingly lower prices, prices so low that many consumers consider this clothing to be

    disposable. Some call it fast fashion, the clothing equivalent of fast food. Many brands like

    Zara, H&M, C&A,etc are bringing fashion forward styles to the masses but fast fashion

    garments are generally designed to only last around 10wears. It is surely in such case that

    almost everyone with even a passing interest in their wardrobe must accumulate enough

    stuff in their wardrobe that, at some stage, sooner or later ,theyll need to get rid of some of

    it. With such fast fashion clothes that restocks every week, clothes have become

    consumption goods that increasingly constitutes a landfill problem along with several other

    environmental threats. The purpose of research is to do detail study of the above

    mentioned problem and find ways of dealing with the same. Secondly, being a designstudent we need to have knowledge about Eco-Friendly Fashion and Zero-Waste Fashion.

    Therefore this research also focuses on in depth concept study of Eco-Friendly Fashion and

    Zero-Waste Design and finding of new ways to Recycle, Resuse and Regenerate.

    1

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    CHAPTER 2

    REVIEW OF LITERATURE

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    Review of Literature

    S. No. ARTICLE SUMMARY

    1. SUSTAINABILITYTHEORY BY JESS

    This research focuses s on how waste is generated and whatare the different ways to reduce the environment impact of

    it.

    2. WASTE AND WANT BY

    SUSAN STRASSES

    In her research she traces the Progressive obsolescence of

    clothing and other consumer goods to the 1920s. She talks

    about conservation of clothes during the world war I which

    is needed again in 21st

    century. She promotes use of

    ecofriendly fashion and reducing fashion waste.

    3. GREEN IS THE NEW

    BLACK BY CHRISTINA

    CARDWELL

    In her research Christina highlights the benefits of

    ecofriendly fashion and rise of green technology and the

    ways to make it budget friendly.

    she also focuses on how various industries do their part to

    counter wastefulness by creating upcycled organic and

    natural fashion lines that employ green practices such as GO

    VINTAGE, BUY LOCAL, CHECK THE LABEL etc.

    4. ARE FASHION

    CONSCIOUS

    CONSUMERS MORE

    LIKELY TO ADOPT

    ECOFRIENDLY

    CLOTHING? BY HAE

    JIN GAM

    In this research a study about the purchasing of

    environmentally friendly clothing as a subset ofenvironmental behaviour is done by conducting surveys.

    its research talks about independent variable- predictors:

    fashion orientation, shopping orientation and

    environmental concern and eco-friendly behaviours as well

    as dependent variable purchase intention regarding

    environmentally friendly fashion.

    5. WASTE COUTURE BY

    LUZ CLAUDIO

    This research shows the importance of globalization,

    consumerism and recycling that has made it possible to

    produce clothing at lower prices. It also makes us aware

    about how fast fashion leaves a polluting footprints and

    generates environmental and occupational hazards.

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    CHAPTER 3

    RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

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    Introduction

    First there was fast food then came fast fashion which made clothes so cheap and appealing

    that ultimately make our wardrobes obese. Keeping the trends in mind we shop move

    leading to seriously overstuffed wardrobes. So excess is usually thrown away which end up

    in a landfill. Textile industry comprise four percent of the nations solid waste stream and the

    absolute amount is growing .Besides the clothing can be used again in one form or another.

    Discarding would be a waste, not just of the material itself but of the water and energy that

    went into the manufacturing.

    Statement of Problem

    It is surely the case that almost everyone with even passing interest in their wardrobe must

    accumulate enough stuff that at some point of time sooner or later they all will need to get

    rid of some of it. If ever a circumspect consumer has things to get rid of , imagine how much

    a lover of fast fashion might use to dispose of with development of fashion industry the

    fashion has become cheap and affordable but cheap fashion however has a cost. It takes

    8,500 litres of water to raise 1kg of cotton lint enough to make one pair of blue jeans . The

    use of pesticides and fertilizers, in addition to water makes the global textile industry one of

    the most polluting and waste generating sectors inthe world. Tonnes of old clothes end up

    in a landfill. Manufacturers and fashion houses need to think harder about recycling.

    Objective

    To know in detail about eco-friendly fashion and sustainable design and zero wastefashion.

    To find out different ways to recycle, reduce and reuse fashion generated waste.

    Research Methodology

    Research design - Exploratory and Descriptive Data collection

    Secondary research - magazine, articles, blog, journals

    Primary research

    3

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    Sample unit - consumers, retailers, manufacturers Sample size Consumers -50

    Retailers 5

    Manufacturers 1

    Sampling technique convenience

    Mode of Data Collection

    Questionnaire, Personal Interview

    Data Analysis

    Statistical tool in form charts and graphs

    Scope of Research

    The research focuses on the study of Ecofriendly-Fashion, Zero-Waste Fashion andSustainable Design.

    It can be further reviewed for knowing about the above topics. Moreover this research can further be referred for finding new ways to recycle

    reduce and reuse of fashion waste.

    Limitation

    Area is confined to Bangalore.

    Time is limited.

    4

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    CHAPTER 4

    DATA ANALYSIS

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    The fashion apparel industry has significantly evolved, particularly over the last 20years,

    when the boundaries of the industry started to expand. The changing dynamics of the

    fashion industry since then, such as the fadingof mass production, increase in number of

    fashion seasons, and modified structural characteristic in the supply chain have forced

    retailers to desire low cost andflexibility in design, quality, delivery and speed tomarket.Looking at the basic structure of the fashion industry until the late

    1980s,traditionally fashion apparel retailers used their capability of forecasting consumer

    demand and fashion trends (known as ready-to-wear) long before the actual time

    of consumption in order to compete in the market. However, recent years have seen

    fashion retailers compete with others by ensuring speed to market with their ability to

    provide rapidly the fashion trends revealed by fashion shows and runways. Moreover due to

    competition in market, new and fashionable styles have become really cheap and affordable

    now a days due to which the buying frequency of an average consumer has increased. The

    chart below shows how oftenly people shop.

    Majority of consumers(33%) have a tendency to shop often i.e. twice or thrice a month.

    Imagine how many clothes they will end up buying at the end of the year which will

    ultimately make their wardrobe overstuffed at some point of time. Only 9% of the

    consumers buys once or twice in a month.

    Fig 1.Consumer Shopping Behaviour

    once or twice a year

    once in a month

    often

    occassionally

    5

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    Considering the above data on consumer buying behavior,it is clear that an average

    consumer buys more than 25 clothes per year. The no. of clothes purchased by a consumer

    per year is shown in the chart below.

    Majority of consumers purchase more than 20 clothes per year. The question here is that do

    we really need that much clothes? No, not really. So what we do to get rid of the excess

    clothes. The reality is that most of the unwanted clothes are thrown away which end up in a

    land fill creating a threat to environment.

    The chase after Spring, Fall, Resort and Pre-Fall seasons is pointless when you have chains

    like H&M and Target coming up with collections every week or so. Many of them cross the

    lines between winter and summer, and their pieces could be mixed and matched.Many fast

    fashion brands offer new collections twice or thrice per season due to which the clothes in

    our wardrobe seems out dated and we end up changing our wardrobes with new and trendy

    stuffs. The chart below shows how quickly consumers change their wardrobes.

    Fig2.Number Of Clothes Purchased By A Consumer

    1-5 clothes

    5-10 clothes

    10-20 clothes

    above 20

    6

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    Most of the people change their wardrobe whenever they feel like and 20% of the people

    change their wardrobe every season and very few people(10%) change their wardrobe once

    or twice a year.

    Let's put aside the question of how not to buy so much in the first place and address the

    predicament we're already in-an average of 68 pounds' worth per person annually for

    disposal.Besides, the clothing can be used again in one form or another. Discarding would

    be a waste, not just of the material itself, but of the water and energy that went into the

    manufacturing.

    Fig3.Wardrobe Culling Habit

    every month

    every season

    once in a year

    whenever they feel like

    Fig4.Clothes Disposal By A Consumer

    1-5 clothes

    5-10 clothes

    10-20 clothes

    above 20

    72

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    According to the chart above, an 58% consumers discards above 20 clothes per year which is

    a serious issue for this huge population. This create millions of tonnes of waste per year

    which is very harmful to the environment.

    Majority of consumers are trend concious consumers only 33% of people are not trend

    concious.

    Supporting eco-friendly fashion can be tough at times as there still isnt the same level of

    stylish, well-fitting options around compared to the cheaply made, mass produced ranges.

    With the onset of the global financial crisis, designers are developing a fashion conscience

    while consumers are seeking out economical alternatives to fast fashion, the frequent and

    rapid seasonal sartorial changes that take place according to the latest fashion trends.

    Sustainable fashion, then, seems like the perfect solution to the modern fashionista's catch-

    22 - combining the hedonistic pursuit of one's fashion instincts with the reduction of one's

    ecological footprint. Most of the people are aware of eco- friendly fashion but they do notuse it in their daily lives. There is a serious need to make people aware of the impact of

    fashion waste on environment and encourage them to use eco- friendly fashion.

    Fig5.Trend Concious Consumers

    yes

    no

    8

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    When asked this question are you aware of eco friendly fashion? 74% of the people said

    yes but when same people were asked to tell how do you implement eco friendly fashion in

    your daily life majority of them said they dont implement or they dont know.

    "More and more people are finding quality recycled clothing and leaving behind the old-

    fashioned fables of mothballs and knitted blankets." There has been an increase in stores

    which sell organic clothing," Ms Fitzpatrick said. "There are also more and more small

    designers who are using organic dye and fabrics to make clothing. The trend towards

    vintage clothes is also rising, as an increasing number of stores sell second-hand or vintage

    clothes."

    Fig6.Are Consumers Aware Of Eco Friendly Fashion

    yes

    no

    9

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    Most of the people do find trendy clothes in ecofriendly clothing stores sometimes but fast fashion

    clothing is more cheap and affordable than that.

    When our clothes become worn and unfashionable, we throw them away. From an environmental

    perspective it seems that the best thing to do is to recycle them, either by giving them to the

    appropriate organization or to sort and reuse the clothes for e.g. production of yarn, cotton waste,

    mattresses etc. However, there may also be problems with sending them to the Salvation Army or

    others for reuse since the clothes will eventually end up as waste somewhere in the world and it

    might be in a place with no incineration facilities where the waste will end up in landfills.Some major

    companies and chains have begun actively to collect clothes they sell, some in cooperation with

    charity foundations (Marks & Spencer and OxFam in Britain have an arrangement where if you hand

    in used clothing to the latter, the former gives you a premium towards a new purchase). The

    American sports-company Patagonia has another type of ambition; they want to collect all the

    clothes they sell themselves in order to actually recycle them and put them back in a closed-loop

    system.

    Fig7.Do Consumers Find Trendy Apparels In Eco Friendly

    Clothing Store

    yes

    no

    10

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    Majority of consumers are ready to accept take back system for clothing where a clothing item can

    be taken back when the consumer do not need it. But it is a recent concept which is still under

    development.

    Many consumers are willing to pay more for an eco friendly clothing if it goes with the trend and

    provide them the required look and quality. People today are more concerned about style and

    glamour rather about environment.

    Fig8.Are Consumers Willing To Accept A Take Back System For

    Clothing

    yes

    no

    throw away 4 2donate24 2

    recycle 2

    reuse2

    11

    Venn Diagram showing methods

    of disposal of clothes by

    consumers

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    Many consumers are willing to pay more for an eco- friendly clothing if it goes with the

    trend and provide them the required look and quality. People today are more concerned

    about style and glamour rather about environment.

    Fig8.Are Consumers Willing To Pay More For Bio Degradable Disposable

    Garments

    yes

    no

    brand loyalty

    8

    2 4

    prices and offers 2

    6

    trendy clothes

    3

    window display

    4

    advertising and media2

    2

    2 2

    12

    Venn Diagram showing criteria

    of consumer buying at fast

    fashion store.

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    CHAPTER 4

    CHAPTER 5

    CONCLUSION

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    Through this data analysis we conclude that:-

    the trend concious consumers out of which mostly are female of age group20-30 years andincome group 5-10 lakh.The women of this age group are very experimental with fashion

    and like to keep themselves updated with latest trends.

    Most of the consumers like to shop often i.e twice or thrice a month as the fast fashionstores offer new and trendy stuffs very often

    An average consumer has 200-300 garments in their wardrobe An average consumer buys above 20 clothes per year. With every passing year which makes

    their wardrobe overstuffed because of which they need to get rid of the excess to

    accomodate new stuffs.

    Most of the consumers change their wardrobe whenever they feel like Majority of people donate their old unwanted clothes but a big number of people throw it

    which end up in a land fill

    An average consumer dispose above 20 clothes per year More than 60% of people are trend concious consumers

    Most ot the people like to shop at fast fashion store because of their prices and offers Majority of consumers are aware of eco friendly fashion but most of them do not

    implement it

    Majority of consumers agrees that there are trendy stuffs in an ecofriendly storessometimes

    Minc, Quiksilver, Mother earth, Spykar, Jute cottage, Fab india etc. Are the eco friendlybrands recognized by the consumers.

    Many people are willing to accept a take back system for clothing

    13

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    SUGGESTION

    CHAPTER 6

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    ResellIf your old clothes are stylish and in top condition, sell them at your neighborhood vintage

    shop. You can also resell onebay.

    SwapBring your clothes in exchange shop "clothes swap" and pick up good stuff from someone

    else. Most swaps are free or charge just a nominal fee.Find a swapin your area or organize

    one of your own just for friends.

    DonateGive your disposable clothes for a good cause. Some organizations make it exceptionally

    easy. You can consider-http://goonj.org/

    -Oxfam International

    Make freely availableSign up withfreecycle(for free of course) and list the clothes you're interested in

    unloading. If someone wants them, they'll let you know.

    RecycleIf your clothes are really past their prime, see if there's a textile recycler in your area who

    will take them.

    Other Tips Fabrics made from recycled items are now becoming more commonplace with

    recycled polyester made from recycled drinks bottles now being made by companies

    such as Patagonia , Marks and Spencer, and Armani jeans.

    Recycling textile fabric- (Upcycling) for example using unwanted factory surpluses,offcuts or materials which would otherwise be thrown away.

    Recycling or customising clothing- taking second hand clothing and re-fashioning orrepairing it so it is given a second life.

    Designer should take initiave in terms of Zero-waste Fashion. Students should be taught about Zero waste design and pattern making.

    14

    http://www.ebay.com/http://www.ebay.com/http://www.ebay.com/http://clothesswap.meetup.com/http://clothesswap.meetup.com/http://clothesswap.meetup.com/http://www.freecycle.org/http://www.freecycle.org/http://www.freecycle.org/http://www.freecycle.org/http://clothesswap.meetup.com/http://www.ebay.com/
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    Bibliography

    http://emptyemptor.com/?p=1820 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964887/ http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/824819/eco-friendly-fashion http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals.htm?articleid=1926549 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964887/ http://emptyemptor.com/?p=1820 http://www.triplepundit.com/2012/12/sustainable-hms-new-global-clothes-collecting-

    initiative/ http://www.nicefashion.org/en/professional-guide/recycling/ http://www.nicefashion.org/en/professional-guide/recycling/breakthrough.html http://www.nrdc.org/thisgreenlife/0908.asp

    http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/824819/eco-friendly-fashionhttp://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/824819/eco-friendly-fashionhttp://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals.htm?articleid=1926549http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals.htm?articleid=1926549http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964887/http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964887/http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals.htm?articleid=1926549http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/824819/eco-friendly-fashion
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    ANNEXURE

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    QUESTIONNAIRE

    NAME: _____________________________________

    GENDER: Male Female

    INCOME GROUP: Less than 1 lakh 1-5 Lakhs

    5-10 Lakhs More than 10 Lakhs

    AGE: 10-20 20-30 30-40 Above 40

    1.HOW OFTENLY DO YOU SHOP ?

    Once Or Twice a Year Once In a Month

    Ocassionally Often

    2. HOW MANY GARMENTS ARE THERE IN YOUR WARDROBE ?

    _________________________________________________________________

    3. HOW MANY CLOTHES YOU BUY PER YEAR ?

    1-5 Clothes 5-10 Clothes 10-20 Clothes Above 20

    4. HOW QUICKLY DO YOU CHANGE YOUR WARDROBE/ GET BORED OF YOUR OLD CLOTHES?

    Every Month Every season

    Once in a year Whenever I feel like

    5. WHAT DO YOU DO WITH YOUR OLD CLOTHES?

    Throw Away Donate

    Recycle It Reuse It

    ANY OTHER

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    6. HOW MANY CLOTHES DO YOU DISPOSE OFF PER YEAR ?

    1-5 Clothes 5-10 Clothes 10-20 Clothes Above 20

    7. WHATMAKES YOU SHOP AT FAST FASHION STORE ?

    Advertising & Media Brand Loyalty

    Prices & Offers Window Display

    Trendy clothes

    8.ARE YOU AWARE OF ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION ?

    Yes No

    9.IF YES THEN,HOW DO YOU IMPLEMENT ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION IN YOUR DAILY WEAR STYLE ?

    ________________________________________________________________

    10.DO FIND TRENDY APPAREL IN ECO-FRIENDLY CLOTHING STORE?

    Yes No

    11.NAME ANY SUCH STORE WHICH PROMOTES ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTS.

    _________________________________________________________________

    12.IF A TAKE BACK SYSTEM (WHERE THE GARMENT IS RETURNED TO THE RETAILER OR MANUFACTURE AFTER

    USE FOR RECYCLING) IS OFFERED FOR YOUR GARMENT WILL YOU USE IT?

    Yes No

    13.WOULD YOU CONSIDER BUYING BIODEGRADABLE DISPOSABLE GARMENT, IF YOU KNEW IT WOULD HAVE A

    LESSER ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT BUT YOU COULD ONLY WEAR IT A FEW TIMES?

    Yes No

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    CHAPTER 6