Digital Photo Secrets by David Peterson

DIGITAL

PHOTOGRAPHY

SECRETS

By David Peterson

Digital Photography Secret 1

Move In CloserAlmost any shot will look better if you take two or three steps closer to your subject. Filling the frame entirely with your subject will make a terrific difference to your photos.

Alternatively, instead of moving closer, use the Optical or Digital Zoom of your camera to get a close up shot. (Preferably Optical zoom - I'll tell you why tomorrow)

When taking shots of family and friends, most people place the subject's full body in the frame, or place head and arms in the shot. Instead, fill the frame with your subject's FACE only - particularly if they are smiling or are in a moment of reflection.

Why does this work? With less clutter in the image, there's less to draw the eye away from the main subject of your photo. Also, human faces (particularly children's faces) are something we all feel pleasure looking at.

If you can't get close enough when you're taking the shot, you can zoom in later using photo editing software - crop out everything except the subject's face and see what a difference it makes.

When using the viewfinder for close shots, be careful of Parallax. Because the viewfinder is not at the same position as the camera's lens, centering the subject in the viewfinder may mean it is not centered for the lens resulting in an off-center final picture. Most digital cameras now come with an inbuilt LCD screen. You can eliminate this problem by using the LCD - which shows you what the lens sees - rather than the viewfinder.


Use Optical rather than Digital Zoom

Cameras are marketed with both an Optical Zoom and Digital Zoom capability.

If you've used a film camera, you'll be used to optical zoom. Optical zoom uses the lens of the camera (the optics) to bring the subject closer. Digital zoom uses clever software to digitally enlarge a portion of the image - thus simulating optical zoom.

So, which is better? Definitely Optical zoom. Here's why.

Digital zoom is not really 'zoom' in the strictest definition of the term. Digital zoom just enlarges the image. Eg it takes a portion of the image and enlarges it back to full size. You lose quality because of the enlargement process so photos that have been taken with digital zoom won't look as good as those without.

You can perform the same result using image editing software on your computer. In fact, it can be better to crop and enlarge using your image software in your computer as you can decide exactly what part of the image to enlarge, and how much to enlarge by.

So when taking shots, use optical zoom only. If you need to zoom in further, use your editing software to select the best part of the image to keep. Ensure your camera warns you when it's switching to digital zoom from optical zoom, or use your settings to disable digital zoom entirely.

Why is clarity important? The more clarity you have in your image, the larger the printed size can be without the image appearing fuzzy, or blocky. If you want to keep clarity in your images, use the optical zoom whenever possible, and avoid the digital zoom.

How do you use Optical Zoom? When you zoom in using your camera, it will use Optical zoom first and then use Digital zoom. You can usually set your camera to notify you when it starts to use the Digital zoom, or tell it to not use digital zoom at all. Consult your manual for details.


Place your subject off-centerRather than placing your main subject in the middle of the screen, place it to one side and ensure something interesting is in the background that fills the remainder of the image.

This can be especially effective if the background has the same theme. For example, if photographing a child opening a Christmas present, frame them to one side and have the Christmas Tree with unopened presents filling the rest of the image.

There are a few guidelines that can help you place your subject in the frame.

The Rule of Thirds

One of the most popular rules in photography is the "Rule of Thirds". It is a simple rule that can add dynamism to your photos. Simply, divide the image into thirds both horizontally and vertically. When composing your shot, place important elements either along these lines, or where the lines intersect - NOT at the centre of the frame.

For example, place a subject's eyes where the top line is, or place your subject on the place in the image where two of these lines intersect.

It's a very simple rule to follow and will result in a nicely balanced, easy on the eye picture. It also helps get rid of the 'tiny subject and large amount of space' tendency because you need to position items relative to the edges of the frame.

Having said this, the Rule of Thirds is also one of the rules you'll want to break often! This is fine - the Rule of Thirds is more of a guideline and sometimes you will find a better image when you break the rule.


Photographing ChildrenChildren make a wonderful subject. Here are some tips for ensuring photos of children are even more memorable.

Meet them eye-to-eyeBring yourself down to the child.s level . even if you need to crouch down. This will give your shots a 'kids eye view' and won't distort their image (as taking the shot from above does).

Capture natural expressionsWhile posed shots are great, often better results can be gained by capturing an image when their thoughts are preoccupied with something else . eg while at play. You.ll capture their faces enjoying the moment rather than thinking about the camera.

Familiarity ensures successChildren who have grown up having their photo taken will be a lot less likely to freeze or show off in front of a camera. Start early and make photo taking a part of every day out.

Children grow up quicklyRecord their growth from toddler to child to young adult by taking a family photo every year around the same time . either the first day of school, or during spring events.


Take More, And Erase Your ShotsThe ability to erase your photos is one of the major advantages of a digital camera. You'd be mad not to use this to the fullest extent!

Take MANY more shots than you think you need, and then erase those that aren't right.

Every half an hour, go back through your most recent photos erase any that don't make the grade, or you have better versions of.

Because you'll be erasing often you can just keep the 'best of the best'. Erasing often also ensures you don't need a large memory card, as it will not be storing your not-so-perfect images.

If you're always pressed for time, you can either invest in a larger memory card, or copy your images to another storage device like a laptop or card storage unit until a later point.

This is also a huge tip when photographing groups. With such a large number of people, there always seems to be someone blinking, or looking the other way. Having a large number of shots means you can pick the best of them to keep.


Preset your Exposure and FocusWhen set to auto, some cameras can take a while to adjust for white balance and focus. This is the 2-3 second delay between when you first push the shutter button, and the shot actually being taken.

If this happens with your camera, try presetting these by holding the shutter release half way down to tell the camera to focus before you need to take the shot.

Then, keep your finger held half way down until you get the perfect shot, or use your camera's 'lock exposure' feature to keep the exposure settings locked until you find the right time to shoot.

Presetting your exposure and focus can REALLY help out when taking shots of children. They tend to not sit in one place waiting for you to adjust your camera, so the best shots are taken when you are prepared for a candid moment - eg when the child is engrossed in a task.


Use A TripodYes, tripods can be a hassle to carry around with you but they help you take great shots in two ways.

First, the time you take to get out the tripod, set it up and position the camera on it will slow your picture taking down. This means you'll become more aware of other elements like composition of the image, and lighting. The more focussed you are to external conditions, the more likely you will be to take a great shot.

The added advantage is your camera is more steady allowing you to take razor-sharp images - particularly in low light situations.

An alternative to the tripod is a 'mono pod'. These only have one leg and don't have the stability of a tripod, but they have a greater stability than just your hands - particularly if you lean them against something.

If you do a lot of mountain walking, there are also extendable 'walking canes' (like a ski pole) that are great for helping you walk up steep hills. The top unscrews to reveal a tripod mount underneath turning it into a mono pod.

Tripod Tip : If you have a lightweight camera, you might consider purchasing a ultra lightweight tripod. These are small, don't weigh much and easily fit in a backpack or camera bag.

Extra Tip : You don't need to purchase a tripod either! Any horizontal surface around can make a tripod - arms of chairs, railings, rocks, anything! Be very careful not to damage your camera, though as cameras have a tendency to slip and break when perched on chairs, rocks etc.

There are lots of other ways to keep your camera steady without purchasing a tripod. My "267 Simple Tips for Sensational Photos" book discusses additional 5 techniques for taking rock steady images.

http://www.simplephototips.com/

http://www.walkingcanedepot.com/hiking_accessories/hiking_accessories.asp


Unusual AnglesMost photos are shot at eye level. I think this is because traditionally, you needed to have the viewfinder up to your eye to ensure you get everyone in the shot.

Because most digital cameras have an inbuilt LCD, you can now take the camera away from your eye and try taking photos from unusual angles.

Try tilting the camera left or right to better position your subject in the frame. Try taking the photo from below, or above your subject. Try getting further away or closer. The main point is to move the camera away from eye level and experiment!

There's always more than one way to photograph a subject. Using different camera angles can make an otherwise boring image really stand out. The more you practice using different angles, the quicker you'll know what works and what doesn't.

Angle Tip : Lie on the ground and point your camera towards the sky for an interesting angle to shoot large monuments with.


Using Flash During The DayInterestingly, one of the best uses of your flash is during bright sunlight! I know it sounds strange but it's true.

A flash helps to eliminate dark shadows (for instance under the eyes and chin of faces). It also helps to emphasize your subject.

When you take pictures of subjects with bright light behind them, for example a portrait that is backlit, or a duck swimming in water reflecting the sun, the camera will be fooled by the bright surroundings so the subject appears dark.

By turning flash on, you will fill in the shadow areas making the picture much more pleasing.

It can also be used to add a sparkle to eyes, and to reduce shadows under the nose and eyes when pictures are taken when the sun is bright and high in the sky (eg at midday).

Nature photographers even use flash to ensure the nooks and crannies of flower petals are properly lit - to reduce shadows.

Professional photographers use flash much more often than amateurs.


Use Continuous ShootingMost digital cameras have a continuous shooting mode, where shots are taken one after the other in rapid succession.

When taking shots, there is often a short delay between when you press your finger on the button, and when the picture is actually taken. This delay may mean your subject has finished their action (eg blowing out candles on a cake) and you have missed the magic moment.

With Continuous Shooting you can take a sequence of shots and keep just the right one. Continuous Shooting also increases you chances of capturing a candid moment.

Where else can this be useful? Any shots of children or group shots will benefit from continuous mode.


Give Yourself A ThemeSometimes you need to think creatively to find better shots. Set yourself a theme to give your brain a head start.

For example, on a vacation choose a different color every day and ensure all your shots for that day have that color in that image. Or shoot only shots with triangles in them.

Other examples of themes are:

Fences Bright Colors Time Cliche Unfinished Repeating Patterns Desperation Bliss

Make sure your theme is simple otherwise you'll be more pre-occupied with getting a shot in line with your theme than the image itself.

Another option for a theme when on vacation is to choose a selection of themes that captures the essence of the destination. Every area has themes relating to its landscapes, climate, cities, culture etc. Do some research by looking at local postcards or talking to taxi drivers to get an idea of the good picture taking locations.


Look For LightDifferent lighting can change the mood and feel of a shot, or be the difference between a mediocre and stunning shot.

The light from the setting sun can produce wonderful lighting for a subject, as does sunlight through leaves. Maybe you see a shaft of light between two large objects such as buildings that can be a perfect backdrop for your subject.

Other options for different light sources at night include :

Neon lights make great night time subjects. You can silhouette your subjects in front of them, or use them as a subject themselves. Use a long exposure on a tripod to capture streaks of car lights on a road or highway, or other moving lights like on a ferry.


Use Red Eye Reduction FlashMost newer cameras have two flash modes. Standard and Red Eye Reduction.

The Red Eye Reduction flash causes the camera to flash multiple times before taking the shot to get the subject's eyes used to the bright light.

Use this whenever taking photographs of people looking directly at the camera in low light.

Many people don't realise they needed to use the red-eye flash until after they look at their photos after the event. So remember to use red eye reduction whenever taking photos in the following situations :

People looking directly at the camera Low Light Using your flash.

It is also possible to remove Red Eye with software programs if you don't have this feature on your camera. There are a few free programs available to do this on the Internet. My Image Editing Secrets course shows a video for how to do this on day 3.

Another option is to use Picasa. This is a free image manipulation program from Google that does a great job of removing red eye. To download for free, click on the image at right.

http://www.imageeditingsecrets.com/


Don't Rely On FlashIn previous tips, we've discussed using your flash. There are occasions, however, where using a flash ruins the mood of the event you are photographing.

Why? A flash tends to create harsh subjects and will ruin any natural mood.

So, rather than using the flash whenever your camera tells you to, use available light whenever possible. In a dark situation, it's often better to open the shutter for longer to let in more light, or turn on existing lights to illuminate the room than to use the flash.

In daytime and when your subject is inside and near a window, have them face the light and position the camera between the window and your subject. This will allow the sunlight to light your image fully.


Use Different Lenses and FiltersThere are a wide variety of lenses and filters available to increase the range of options you have for shooting a photograph.

Note that not all digital cameras come with the ability to attach different lenses and filters. Check the manual for your camera.

Some lens types include :

Wide Angle Telephoto Fish Eye

Using a Wide Angle lens is good for shooting a indoor room, or shooting a mountain vista. A TelePhoto lens can be useful when you need a close up. TelePhoto lenses are bascically a better optical zoom.

Filters include :

Polarizing Soft Focus Cooling/Warming Graduated

A polarizing filter can be the most useful filter to own. A Polarizing filter can deepen the color and contrast in the sky, eliminate glare from water or reflective surfaces, or cut through fog like haze. Soft Focus filters generate more diffused looks for romantic, moody, atmospheric, foggy or glowing effects in your shots.

Cooling filters add more blue to an image giving a psychological effect of calming or serenity in the final image. Warming filters cut out excess blue in an overcast sky to add more reddish tones to the image and make your photos look less harsh.

Finally, graduated lenses help for scenes that have a huge difference in light level - eg late in the day when the sky is still bright, but the foreground is in shadow.


Use Predefined ModesMany people don't know that most cameras now come with selected modes for taking shots. Eg Landscape, Cloudy Day, Full Sun, Indoors, Night.

Changing the mode of your camera to match your situation can result in better shots, as the camera has a better chance of selecting the shutter speed, flash and other exposure choices for a perfect picture.

Camera makers put a lot of thought into the settings for each of the different modes and tailor the settings to what will work well with their camera. So don't be afraid to use the predefined scene modes of your camera.


Don't add frillsSome manufactures give you a feature that can imprint the current date and time onto your image. Or they offer to imprint other stats like the current exposure settings, or shot number.

Turn these off!

You don't want anything to distract you or your viewer from the subject of your photo.

Modern digital cameras record the time and date the shot was taken anyway in a separate part of the image file anyway, and most digital printing places will stamp the back of the image with the time and date the shot was taken so you can always see it.


Use the LCD Monitor to preview images

The LCD monitor will show you what your final image will look like. It won't be as large in size as your final image, but you will get enough of a feel for the image to know how your shot will turn out.

If your camera can show you a half second freeze of your shot just after you have taken it, turn this feature on. The half second will give you enough time to see if the image was well framed, and have the correct exposure or if you need to take another one.

However the LCD uses a lot of battery. Find out how to increase battery time with a secret only discussed in my "Digital Photo Secrets" book. Click on the link to learn more.


Look for ReflectionsWater is a fantastic element to include in your photos, as the reflections it generates can make your image stand out.

Keep a look out for water around your environment when you shoot. Reflections from lights, or splashes of color can really help with the ambience of an image.

Rainy days are particularly good as puddles abound!

Extra Secret: Photographing just the reflection and leaving the subject out is a great way to produce abstract images.

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/book


Shooting VacationsHere are some tips for helping with your vacation shots

Take plenty of memory!

Make sure you have extra memory cards, have another storage facility like a Laptop or media storage unit.

Get close

Don't stand too far from your subject - instead get nice and close so you can see their face. Either a three-quarter shot, or profile generally works well.

Candid counts

Images with people are usually more interesting when the subject is caught in a candid moment. When setting up for a posed shot, try to include something interesting to liven up the shot.

Make your trip a story. Create a visual diary by photographing landmarks along your journey such as signposts and street scenes. You can also capture the mood of the day - If you feel bright and happy, shoot some scenes which will capture that feeling. If you're moved by what you see, ensure your shots convey that feeling.

Take shots at meals

This is the time when family is gathered around. Take advantage of it by taking an image or two of your relatives around the dinner table. Ensure you use a the red eye reduction mode of your flash and activate the self timer if you also wish to be in the shot.

Include the mundane

Most vacation photographers just photograph landmarks and scenery. Make your vacation shots more interesting by including the mundane - washing the dishes, taking off in the car, setting up camp, waiting for an aeroplane etc.


Clean your CameraIf your images always turn out all blurry, it may mean your lens needs a clean. Most high end cameras come with threads to which you can attach a SkyLight (or UV) filter. This helps to protect the lens from not only dirt, but scratches. Cheaper cameras don't have threads so remember to cover the lens when not in use and try not to touch it.

Don't clean the lens too often - depending on how often you use your camera, every few weeks or few months is fine. To clean your lens, pick up a lens cleaning kit from your local photo store. Use the lens brush and air blower to remove any loose clinging particles. Place a drop of lens cleaning fluid onto some lens tissue (or a cloth) and wipe the lens clean with a circular motion. Use the blower to dry the lens, or let it dry naturally. Don't use any abrasive solution (such as soap) or wipe too hard on the lens as you can wipe away the special coatings.

Watch out you don't create a 'worn spot' by cleaning your lens the same way each time. Alternate the circular motion with up and down or sideways movements sometimes.

Ensure you protect the other parts of your camera as well. Particularly the Memory Card slot and Battery contacts. If you find they have any corrosion, you can remove it easily with a pencil eraser. Make sure you remove the excess eraser that can get left in the compartment with an air blower. Never ever insert anything into the memory card slot that isn't meant to be there, as you could break the small pins. To keep clean, it's best to leave a memory card in the slot, or at least keep the cover closed.

Digital Photo Secrets – Extra Tips

Lighting Secrets

Almost as important as composition is the use of light. Here are some secrets for using light.

The best outdoors light to be found is at dawn and dusk. Here the light is not as bright as midday, and the sun produces some wonderful reds. Both these help to make a normally ordinary shot look magic by creating a warm glow. When you are shooting outdoors, the best way to shoot is away from the sun. Don’t have the sun in your photographs because it will overpower the colors and ensure the side of your subject facing the camera is in shadow. Ensure the sun is behind your back. Another thing to watch out for is that your subject doesn’t squint. We all love to see bright wide eyes, so ensure the sun isn’t too bright. This is another reason to shoot at dawn or dusk - you can have the subject facing the sun but not squinting… and you get much better colors in your image at the same time! If shooting in sunlight, watch for shadows. Look at the shadow cast by your subject and ensure it doesn’t block anything, or look unsightly. Additionally, ensure your own shadow doesn’t fall into the picture! The best night shots are taken just after sunset. This is where scenes are lit up as if it were night, but there is still a tiny bit of sunlight around to help light the scene and bring out the detail. When indoors, try moving your lighting sources around. Lights at lower angles are usually more dramatic than plain overhead lighting. Remember the secret about using your flash during the day? It’s also possible on most digital cameras to take night shots without a flash. Try setting your ISO speed to 800 or above to ensure the camera is sensitive to very low light. Need to use the flash, but it’s a bit harsh? Try taping some wax paper over the flash to diffuse the light. Want to light a very small object? If you’re using your macro setting to take a shot, cut up a plastic milk container and place it around the object. It will diffuse the surrounding light.

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tips/flash.html

Tips for Taking Sports Images

Most of us have seen sports photos that capture the essence of the action - mostly in the sports sections of the newspapers. It’s normally pretty hard to create quality sporting photos because most of the time (for large events) you can’t get close enough to the action to capture the event properly. Would you like to be able to take those same quality images of your kid’s sports events? Read on.

Location

You need to get as close to what you are shooting as you can. Most press photographers are given specific places they can shoot from - and they pay for that privilege. I’m betting you don’t have a press pass and so will need to shoot from the stands. Get as close to the action as possible.

It also helps to know the sport you are photographing. Get into the correct location to enable you to “capture the moment”. Near the goal posts is usually a good spot for Football or Soccer.

Capture The Moment

Sports photography is mostly about timing. Be ready at the right place and be ready to shoot at the right time. Most sports have predictable moments - scoring a goal, getting a home run, shooting a basket. Be ready for when these moments happen.

Remember the following - “If you see the action, you missed it.” This basically means you need to anticipate the action. Don’t wait for the batter to hit the ball before pressing the shutter. If you do, the image will likely to be taken once the ball has been hit and has left the frame. Anticipate by holding the shutter release down half way (so the camera can focus and set the exposure level). Just before the ball is hit, press the shutter all the way down. Through experience, you will learn how much time beforehand you need to press the shutter.

Be aware that sports also have unpredictable moments, so keep a keen eye out for these and have your camera ready.

Sports Equipment

Having the correct gear is essential to great sports photography. Because most of the time you will be standing a long way from the action, you will almost certainly need a telephoto lens to enable you to zoom in. Because most good telephoto lenses are large and bulky, you should also think about a monopod (a tripod with only one leg). An optional piece of equipment is a flash with a high output but be aware that a lot of sports events do not allow flashes. Talk to an event official first to get the okay.

Focus

An out of focus shot is pretty useless. You should aim for every photo to be crisp and clear. Auto focus cameras do a very good job of this, and they usually focus pretty quickly. Many times, however, manual focus will work much better because the camera’s auto focus can take a long time to complete.

There are two ways you can focus your camera - Zone Focus and Follow Focus. Follow Focus is where you keep your camera on the subject, changing the focus as needed to ensure the subject stays in focus as they are moving around the court (or ground). This works well when most of your subjects are moving from side to side in your image - car racing, football and soccer are three examples.

Zone Focus is where you expect the action to take place at a specific position - eg a the basket ball ring or the jump point for a high jumper. Focus on the area you want to be sharp and wait for your athlete to move into the zone.

Composition

Faces. The face is the primary source of emotion, and because emotion is what makes a shot it’s vitally important to include faces in your digital images. It can be difficult to capture faces in some sports (fencing for example involves face cages, baseball caps create shadows on the players faces). Use a flash to fill in the shadows in these instances but remember the flash has a very limited range.

Use Vertical. Because the human form is taller than it is wide, it lends itself to a vertical composition. Rotate your camera 90 degrees so the height of your image is also larger than the width.

Rule Of Thirds. The Rule Of Thirds is also useful here. Divide the frame into thirds vertically and horizontally and place the subject where the lines intersect. Watch for where the player is moving too - if they are moving to the right, place them on the left third line and vice versa.

Take Individual Shots. Most professional photographs are of individuals so try to shoot one person at a time. Exceptions to this are when there is conflict - two players fighting for a ball.

Know Your Sport

Each sport has a different technique for getting the best images and it helps to know the key elements of your sport. Know the basic fundamentals of the game and be prepared for what may happen next. With 15 seconds to go with a basketball team two points down, they may try to shoot a basket from the opposite end of the court. Anticipating this will help immensely with your photographs.

It also helps to know the players. If a particular player does a victory dance after each touchdown, be ready for it when it happens.

Freezing Action Shots

Most of the time you want to freeze the action. People want to see people suspended in mid air, or in mid shot. To freeze the action you need a fast shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the better the freeze but the more light you need. Most of the time this won’t be a problem as a lot of sports are held outdoors. Set your camera to the fastest shutter speed possible.

The Illusion of Movement

It isn’t always the best thing to freeze-frame the action. Blurry images imply movement which helps in some sports. You don’t want a race car to appear to be standing still but having the car crisp while the background is blurry will help show that the car is moving fast.

Slow your shutter speed down and follow the subject (panning) with your camera. Try to keep your subject in the same position in the frame. This will blur the background and keep your subject sharply focused.

Emotion

Hands down Emotion is what makes fantastic photos. If there is no emotion, there is no desire to view a photo. Fortunately, sports participants who are exerting themselves exhibit emotion. The thrill of victory or the agony of defeat are both fantastic emotions to capture. But don.t forget the other chances for emotion to show: A high jumper preparing for the highest jump of his career; a cricketer batsman positioning a hit ball between two fielders; Even a junior hockey player getting the hair out of her eyes.

Oh, and crowd reactions also make fantastic shots. Don’t forget to turn your camera around every now and again and look at the crowd.

Take Safe Images

Although you want to try to take memorable shots at key points in the action, sometimes you just miss them. To ensure you have a record of the day, take a number of “safe” images that will show what happened, but may not have the emotion of that specific action shot. Take images of the players doing “what they do” in the sport. Eg a tennis player serving.

Take lots of images

Not every image you take will be a perfect shot capturing the action and emotion. Prepare for this and take as many shots as you can while at the event. It’s not unusual for professional photographers to take 100 shots during a match and only use two or three. Don’t just take any old shots though. Try to plan each one to capture a story or an emotion.

Taking memorable sports images can take time and effort, but with patience and a little knowledge, you too can produce sports magazine quality images.

Composing Great Photos at the Beach or a National Park

How do you get the best shots when you’re out and about? Here are some secrets for taking shots at the beach and inside National Parks.

Taking Photos At The Beach

The beach is a fantastic place to not only photograph your family and friends having fun, but you can get some good landscape photography of the beaches or hills as well.

When taking photos of sandcastles, drop down to the same level as the sandcastle and ensure your family is at the same level

The summer sun will usually be very bright and harsh. The best light will usually be in the late afternoon or early morning.

Take your telephoto lens if you have one. Pictures of surfers work really well in closeup.

Watch for beach animals such as crabs and photograph them using your Macro function.

Try standing in the water, keeping your camera close to the water and shooting towards the beach for an unusual shot.

Keep the flash on. This will “fill in” the shadows on their faces (particularly if your subjects are wearing hats)

Be careful with your camera, as sand and salt water are very harmful substances to get inside your camera!

Taking Photos At National Parks

Natural wonders abound in National Parks. There’s so much to photograph: The Animals, Scenery, Your Family!

When photographing wondrous scenery like waterfalls, focus on that subject but don’t make it the only thing in your photograph. Include some sky, or a person for scale.

Again, keep the flash on to help with shadows on your subject’s faces. Take advantage of the scenery. When photographing your family and friends,

include something of the surrounding area in the photograph as well. Try different angles to see if you can make the shot more interesting. Eg shooting

upwards from ground level. Taking more than one battery will help because you’ll have loads of good photo

ops you won’t want to waste any! Look for detail. The sheer cliff face might be breathtaking, but the climber scaling

the cliff would be just as exciting to capture in your photos.

Photographing Pets

You need a lot of patience to photograph pets! Fortunately with a digital camera, you can take a lot of photos and delete the ones that are no good.

Catch your pet in action - fetching a ball or stick, playing with a toy. Dogs in particular have a lot of energy. A bouncing-with-energy dog makes a

fantastic photo subject. Cats can show a keen concentration. Move in close to their face but use the

optical zoom so your cat desn’t get distracted by a camera in their face. Find where your pet loves to play, and hang out with them there. If they like

playing with a person, have the person there as well. Keep the camera handy and when you see a great shot, take it!

Have someone to help you if your pet is being uncooperative. They can supply a very useful extra hand.

Bribing your pet with a treat will help if they’re not cooperative. Use a squeaky toy to get them to look towards the camera if you’re after a more

traditional portrait shot. Use a high shutter speed - particularly when your pet is excited. The more excited

they are, the more they move around and can produce blurry images. Simple backgrounds are best. Look for a solid color as a background so your pet

stands out. Just make sure your pet doesn’t blend in and become invisible! Avoid flash because a lot of pets eyes will reflect a green color (red-eye but

green). Don’t forget your smaller pets. Make sure you get really close, and avoid shots

with cage bars. Try shooting through the open cage door. Turtles can be placed with almost anything and produce a stunning photo.

Use the natural curiosity of your pet to your advantage. Give your kitten a new toy or play area and watch them investigate!

Take a bit of time to get the right photo. You may need to shoot thirty or more shots to get a perfect one. Keep working with it and you’ll be amazed at the results.

Groups of pets can make stunning photos, but you need a LOT of patience!

At the Zoo

At a zoo, you can shoot animals other than your pet. Zoo photos are great because you can use them to teach your children about various animals and create posters and other projects.

Watch for glass when using your flash. If there is glass between you and the animal you wish to photograph, place your camera on an angle so the flash doesn’t reflect back at the camera.

Flash also won’t reach very far into the indoor enclosures, so most of the time it might be better to not use the flash. Take a tripod (or monopod) and use the low light tips to take your photo. If you’re outdoors, remember to use the flash to fill shadows.

Have the camera at the same eye level as the animal. Watch the background and make sure it’s simple and free from distractions Remember to fill the frame with your subject. Use the highest optical zoom you

can. Use the rule of thirds. (from tip #3) Try to get your child and the animal in the same frame. Either with the child’s

back, or both as a side-on view. Don’t make all your shots of the animals. Capture your child’s expressions when

they spot a large creature!

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tips/rot.html

Using Tripods

Using a tripod is essential when taking photos - and not just for night shots. To get ultra crisp and sharp pictures, your camera cannot move at all when the shutter is open. In some circumstances, even the tiny movements your hand makes are enough to make a slightly blurry image. The best way to ensure your camera does not move is to use a tripod or other camera stand.

On sunny days or when you use a really fast shutter speed, simply holding the camera in your hand will still produce a sharp image.

But there’s another reason for using a tripod on these occasions as well. Erecting the tripod causes you to SLOW DOWN and think a little more about the shot you’re about to take. Because you’re concentrating more, you’ll have a better chance of composing your image correctly and ending up with a super shot.

Types of Camera Stands

Tripod. This is a three legged stand that attaches to the mount on your camera. This is the most common type of mount to hold your camera steady, and allows you to move your hands away from the camera completely and still have it steady in position.

Monopod. A variation on the tripod, this stand only has one leg. Attach the monopod to your camera, stand it on the ground and use your hands to ensure the camera and stand don’t fall over. This helps because the monopod stops the camera moving up and down, and provides a rest for your hands so camera shake is reduced. For a bit of extra stability, lean yourself, or your camera against another sturdy object like a light pole.

Chainpod. An ingenious design consisting of a length of chain (or string) with a loop on one end large enough to place your foot into. The other end is attached to your camera. To use a Chainpod, place your foot through the loop and pull your camera up so the chain is tight while taking your photo. The tension in the chain will reduce camera shake just like a monopod. The great advantage of a chainpod is you can crunch it up and place it in your pocket!

Dolly. This is a tripod with wheels (and brakes!). A dolly allows you to move your tripod around easily without needing to lift your camera, but it’s not so useful outdoors when the ground is uneven. There are dolly attachments available for regular tripods.

Car Window Mount. This gadget allows you to mount your camera to your car window to take photos of wildlife while still sitting in the car.

http://clownloach.net/Reviews/21022004/index.html

A Rock! Yes, as I explained in Secret #7 on Tripods, you can use any ledge as a tripod when you need a sharp picture but don’t have a tripod handy. You can also use a small bean bag to steady your camera and lens if your camera doesn’t stand upright by itself.

Which should I purchase?

If you’re just starting out, I recommend purchasing a standard tripod with telescoping legs that stands full length (5-6 feet). Make sure you get a sturdy (preferably all aluminum) model. Pick the heaviest model you can carry around with you.

Lightweight models are available, as are mini-tripods - Perfect for portability, but they don’t have the stability of the larger models.

Using a Tripod

Most of the time, you just setup your tripod, place your camera on top and shoot! There are a few subtleties to using a tripod that can help enormously.

The longer the legs of the tripod, the less steady the tripod becomes. Extend your tripod legs only enough to enable you to get your camera into the correct position.

Sometimes the act of depressing the shutter causes movement in the camera. To minimize this, use your other hand and press down on the top of the camera directly above the tripod mount. This will help to further reduce movement.

You’re most likely to need your tripod when your camera is fully zoomed in. When fully zoomed in, any small shake is likely to show on the image.

Other Tripod Secrets

Try to find a tripod with a built in level. The level will help ensure your landscape shots are completely straight and save needing to rotate the image slightly in your computer to get a level horizon.

Specialized lenses are available that can compensate for camera shake. They are called “Image Stabilizers” or “Vibration Reduction lenses”. They can be rather expensive, so I recommend sticking with a tripod.

Try to get a tripod with a quick release mount. This will enable you to quickly remove the camera from your tripod should you need to take a quick ‘candid’ shot.

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tips/tripod_monopod.html

About Digital Camera Memory Cards

Another accessory you should purchase is a spare memory card. Most cameras are sold with a ’starter’ memory card that is usually a low capacity card that’s enough to take a few sample photos on, but not enough for day-to-day use.

What is a memory card?

A memory card is the little removable piece of plastic that your camera uses to store your photos. Memory cards come in different sizes and names such as Compact Flash (CF), Secure Digital (SD), Memory Stick (MS), Smart Media (SM) and xD.

Running out of memory on your card is a little like running out of film in a traditional camera. Rather than purchasing a new film to take more shots though, you move your images to your computer or a CD and re-use the same memory card.

Purchasing extra memory cards is a good idea is you’re on a vacation and want to ensure you can store all your photos. Fortunately, prices of memory cards have come down dramatically in recent times.

Purchasing - what do I need to know?

There are two pieces of information you need to know when purchasing a new memory card. What type of card your camera takes, and how large a memory card you wish to buy.

What memory card type does my camera use?

The simplest way to find out the type of memory card your camera uses, is to take your existing card out of the camera and look on it for one of the types listed above. If you’re still not sure, take your existing card into the camera store and ask the staff for a new card with the same type as what you have.

The size of memory card you purchase will depend on your photography needs as well as your budget. Memory cards come in sizes between 16 Megabytes (and will fit between 4 and 32 images depending on your camera capabilities and image quality) and 4 Gigabytes (4,000 megabytes - store thousands of images on one of these cards).

My advice is to purchase the largest sized card you can afford. This will allow you to take as many pictures as possible before needing to transfer to a computer or CD. On my last holiday, I took along 1 Gigabyte of memory card storage allowing me to take about 500 images without needing to take my computer along with me to download the images to.

Memory Card Speed

Another feature to keep in the back of your mind when purchasing a new memory card is the card’s speed. The faster your memory card speed, the faster your camera can write its image to the card, and the quicker you can take another photo. The actual speed will be the LOWEST of either your camera’s fastest transfer speed (see your camera’s manual) and the memory card’s speed. If your camera can transfer at 40X speed, but your memory card can only handle 12X, 12X will be the actual transfer speed. Note that some cameras ignore the card’s speed and write as fast as possible all the time.

How many memory cards do I need?

I recommend you have at least two memory cards for your camera. The professionals usually carry 4-6 memory cards and when they run out of memory on one they swap to the next, but unless you’re taking LOTS of photos, that’s overkill. With two cards, you can normally work with one but you have a spare just in case you run out of the first, or you go on a long vacation and need to store more images than you normally would.

Microdrives

A recent invention that’s gaining a lot of popularity is the Microdrive. These are for the Type II Compact Flash cards, and instead of memory inside the card, there’s a tiny hard drive. Their advantage is they can store an enormous amount of data (over 6 Gigabytes), but the problem is they are a little more expensive than a traditional memory card, and can take longer to save your image. They also aren’t as shock resistant as standard cards.

Care of cards

Memory cards, although they seem to be small and flimsy, can be quite robust. I’ve dropped one of my cards in a glass of coke and it has survived - although I don’t recommend you do this! It will also depend on the brand of card you purchase. More expensive cards tend to withstand more pounding. Most memory cards will withstand a small amount of misuse, but like any electronic components, take good care of them and they will serve you well.

Other Memory Card Secrets

If you transfer lots of images to your computer, purchase a card reader. These will allow you to transfer the images to your computer at a much faster rate than using your camera’s connection.

Contrary to popular opinion, airport x-ray machines will not damage your camera’s memory cards. If you’re really worried, remove them from your bag and ask the screeners to inspect manually.

Turn off your camera when inserting or removing memory cards. Taking the memory card out while the camera is writing to the card could wreck both your card and camera.

Tips for Purchasing a Digital Camera Lens

Your lens is an essential element to good photographs. It’s not just your camera. People spend thousands of dollars on a good camera and neglect the lens.

Change that around! Make sure you buy a good camera lens when purchasing a camera. Buy a good camera as well, but don’t neglect a good camera lens.

Why? Your camera is just the ‘holder’ for the photograph. The lens is what your camera sees all your shots through. A good lens is essential to clear and sharp photos.

With most compact digital cameras, you can’t change the lens. So in that case, don’t just buy a good camera, ensure it also has a good lens.

Avoid a plastic digital camera lens because it doesn’t have the clarity of a glass lens.

What model of lens?

Stick with camera lenses from well known manufacturers like Nikon, Canon and Pentax. Ensure you purchase a lens that works with your camera too. A Nikon camera lens usually won’t work well with a Canon camera.

There are specialty lens manufacturers like Carl Zeiss, Leica and Leupold. If you’re a beginner, don’t worry about these lenses until you are more advanced as they come with very high prices and it’s hard to justify the price for the small increase in quality.

Types of Camera Lens

The most common lenses are : Wide Angle, Normal and Telephoto. The type of lens is determined by the Focal Length of the lens. See below. A Zoom Lens is simply a lens that can change Focal Length from a Wide Angle to a Telephoto (or somewhere inbetween).

There are a number of things to look for when purchasing a camera lens.

Lens Focal Length

The Focal Length of a lens determines the amount of magnification and angle of vuew the lens can see. The Focal Length is measured in mm. It’s the Focal Length that determines if the lens is a:

Wide Angle; small magnification, wide angle of view. 20mm to 35mm Traditional, or Normal; 50mm Telephoto; high magnification, narrow angle of view; 105mm to 300mm. Zoom; A Zoom lens can change it’s focal length to zoom in. A Zoom lens might

have a Focal Length of between 50mm and 150mm.

Some lenses are interchangeable between film cameras and digital cameras, but you need to be aware that the effective focal length CHANGES between film and digital. The focal lengths I describe above are for FILM cameras and need to be multiplied by 1.6 to get the effective focal length on a digital camera. So using a film 35mm lens on a digital camera has an effective focal length of 56mm.

What does this mean for you? It means that you won’t get as wide angle on a digital camera as you would on a film camera using the same lens. A 35mm lens which gives a medium wide angle on a film camera acts as a traditional lens on a digital camera

This is a complex subject, so I can’t go into too much detail here. If you need more help, the best person to speak to would be your local camera store’s resident expert.

Lens Speed

The ’speed’ of a digital camera lens also defines a lens. The speed is determined in f-stops and is similar to the f-stop aperture setting on your camera. Faster lenses are more expensive and usually heavier.

Focusing Distance

This is the minimum distance from the camera lens that a subject must be to be in focus. Don’t worry about getting a camera with a close focusing distance. Concentrate on a telephoto instead.

More Advanced Features

More expensive lenses have more advanced features.

Vibration Reduction. A feature called ‘vibration reduction’ keeps images sharper when shooting in low light. They help to counter any vibration in the camera. Try to find a digital camera lens with this feature.

USM USM stands for Ultrasonic Motor. This feature of Canon lenses gives you a high speed auto focus but the main benefit is the ‘motor’ is almost silent, so you don’t disturb people around you when your camera is focussing.

Filter Thread. When purchasing a half-decent lens, it should have a filter thread. This is a thread that allows you to screw on a filter (such as a polariser) to help when photographing difficult situations. Even if you don’t need filters right now. it’s handy to purchase a lens with a thread so you can add a filter later.

You get what you pay for

Generally the more expensive the lens, the better it is. More expensive lenses usually have a higher number of glass elements in the lens, which also makes them heavier.

Final Notes

While it is important to choose good quality camera lens, for beginners it isn’t as important as good composition. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking you can only take a great picture with an expensive top-of-the-line lens. A badly composed picture won’t look great with a great camera lens.

I don’t mean to discount the importance of a good quality lens. A good rule is to only add to your lens collection only when you have a specific need for a particular digital camera lens.

Do your research and your homework first, and find the lens that suits both you and your camera.

Digital Camera Modes - Basic Modes

Most people use the automatic mode of their camera and it takes good shots in most situations. It is often very helpful though to let the camera know what type of shot you’re trying to take. This allows the camera to select the best settings for that particular image.

This can be done by changing to a different camera mode. In today’s tip, we’ll explain each of the different modes, when to use them, and what decisions the camera makes for each mode.

Landscape Mode

Use Landscape mode to take photos of mountains, scenery or cityscapes. Anytime where the whole image - both the foreground and background - needs to be in focus. Setting Landscape Mode will tell your camera to select a small aperture which will give a large depth of field and ensure the whole image is in focus.

Portrait Mode

Select Portrait mode when you want to take a shot of a person - usually showing their face. The best portraits are where the subject is in full focus, but the background is out of focus, so the camera increases the aperture in this mode to get a small depth of field. This places only the subject in focus.

Sports Mode

Sports mode is perfect for fast action shots. It ensures the camera uses a fast shutter speed so you can take photos of moving subjects without motion blur. Also, on some cameras the continuous shooting mode is enabled so the camera keeps taking shots as long as you depress the shutter.

Macro Mode

Close up shots of flowers, insects and the like require the camera to focus on an object that’s really close to the lens. Macro mode provides just that setting by using the macro lens of the camera.

Night Mode

Use Night Mode at night, or at dawn or dusk. This is where you want to make best use of what little light is available. The camera will choose a slow shutter speed and turn off the flash. Try to place your camera on a tripod or keep it steady some other way when using this mode to ensure your images stay sharp.

Beach and Snow

Some cameras provide a “Beach and Snow” mode. This mode is for use when shooting highly reflective scenes - like at the snow. The camera will compensate for the bright scene and ensure the image is exposed correctly.

Digital Camera Modes - Advanced Modes

Once you’ve mastered shooting with basic modes, try some of the more advanced modes your camera supports. When starting to use these modes, I recommend some experimentation so you get familiar with each mode and how it changes the final photo.

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tips/basicmodes.html

Program Mode

This mode is similar to the Auto function in that the camera does some of the work, but you still have some control over how you want the photo to look. Program mode allows you to select from one of a number of shutter/aperture combinations for a specific exposure. I suggest learning how the different modes affect the shot by setting your camera on a ledge or tripod and shooting a scene with each of the different program modes. Notice how each mode changes what you see with the image.

Aperture Priority / AV Mode

This mode allows you to set the aperture setting for your camera and let your camera choose the appropriate shutter speed. Changing the aperture allows you to control the depth of field in your image - basically so you can choose how much is in focus.

Shutter Priority / Time Priority / TV / S Mode

Use Shutter Priority when the portrayal of motion is most important. When you want moving objects to blur, choose a slower shutter speed. A fast shutter speed will freeze your subject. The camera will select the appropriate aperture for a correct exposure.

Manual Mode

Here you can choose both the shutter speed and aperture to get just the setting you want. This mode gives you total control over the depth of field, lighting and motion in your images.

Most professionals use Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Full Manual mode because they provide the most control over the image. All these extra settings do take some learning though, so I recommend trying one mode at a time and see how it affects the images you take.

END OF COURSE

Digital Photo Secrets by David Peterson

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