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    1

    China

    Beauty

    Supplement

    January 22, 2013

    SCOTT GALLOWAYNYU Stern

    DOUG GUTHRIE

    The George WashingtonSchool of Business

    L2 2012 L2ThinkTank.com

    EXCERPTDigital IQ Index: China Beauty SupplementTo access the full report, [email protected]

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    E-Commerce ExplodesIf China is the epicenter of growth in beauty, e-commerce is ground zero.

    With sales of more than $8 billion in 2011, China is the largest online beauty market

    in the world, nine times that of the U.S.4Online beauty sales are projected to top

    $20 billion by 2016, and have registered year-on-year growth of almost 200 percent

    between 2006 and 2012.5In 2012, approximately 17 percent of luxury cosmetics in

    China were purchased online versus four to six percent in mature markets.6Shiseido

    and Bobbi Brown launched e-commerce in 2012, and all but two brands in this

    years Index (Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain) sell online in China. Much of the volume

    is incremental as e-commerce enables beauty brands to extend their reach to Tier

    3 and Tier 4 cities. In 2012, Este Lauder reported that 70 percent of online sales in

    China come from cities with no brick-and-mortar distribution.7

    1. Cosmetics and Jewelry in China, Jeffrey Hayes, Facts and Details, December 2012.

    2. National Bureau of Statistics of China, November 2012.

    3. Beautifying China Is LOreal And Estee Lauders Big Opportunity, Trefis Team, Forbes, May 31, 2012.

    4. ibid

    5. Online Beauty Sales Slated to Top $20 Billion in China by 2016, Reports Kline, Kline & Company , April 23, 2012.6. Ruder Finn/Ipsos China Luxury Forecast 2012, August 2012.

    7. Este Lauder taps small Chinese cities, Warc, November 5, 2012.

    Maos RougeBanned by Mao and his political heirs until the 1980s, global beauty and cosmetics brands are relatively newto the Chinese market. Just 30 years later, China is the epicenter of growth for the industry as young women

    armed with increasing disposable income spend 10 to 15 percent of their annual income on beauty products.1

    Despite a slowing Chinese economy, the $17 billion domestic beauty industry is up 16.5 percent yearoveryear

    through the first ten months of 2012.2Growth in the high-margin prestige segment has outpaced mass brands

    as women continue to trade up.3

    C

    hallenges RemainAlthough the numbers are big, the majority of sales occur on Taobao and

    other C2C channels and often feature gray market or off-price products.

    Counterfeit sites and products continue to be an issue. The jury is out on Tmall,

    Taobaos B2C platform. SK-II and Yue-Sai launched brand stores on Tmall in 2012,

    while Benefit Cosmetics exited the platform in June. Lancme and local brand

    Herborist removed links to Chinese third-party e-tailers, focusing efforts on their

    direct businesses, though the latter continues to sell on Tmall and 360buy.

    http://l2thinktank.com/mailto:info%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Brand%20Rankinghttp://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/china-beauty-supplement-2013/mailto:membership%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Membershiphttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.klinegroup.com/news/beauty_retailing_sales4-23-12.asphttp://www.warc.com/LatestNews/News/EmailNews.news%3FID%3D30588%26Origin%3DWARCNewsEmailhttp://www.warc.com/LatestNews/News/EmailNews.news%3FID%3D30588%26Origin%3DWARCNewsEmailhttp://www.klinegroup.com/news/beauty_retailing_sales4-23-12.asphttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-laudermailto:membership%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Membershiphttp://www.l2thinktank.com/research/china-beauty-supplement-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/mailto:info%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Brand%20Rankinghttp://l2thinktank.com/
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    Student Becomes the MasterDigital platforms are more than just a sales channel, and much of the

    Beauty industrys digital marketing innovation is coming from China.

    Brand BBS sites, including Lancmes RoseBeauty and E ste Lauders EL-Lady,

    provide robust consumer engagement platforms to manage sampling, content,

    and consumer data capture. Seven brands maintain these brand-specific

    communities. CRM and loyalty initiatives in China are often the model for the

    rest of the world and include a drive-to-retail component often managed through

    a consumers mobile device. In addition, robust China-specific social media

    programs inspire robust participation, tapping into the Chinese consumers

    desire for self-expression.

    Digital IQ = Shareholder ValueThis report is a supplement to our 2012 Digital IQ Index: China and

    attempts to distill trends, best practices, and case studies in Beauty for

    the China market.Our aim is to provide a tool for identifying areas of strength

    and weakness, helping brands achieve greater return on digital investments. Like

    the medium we are assessing, our approach is dynamic. Please reach out with

    suggestions to improve our findings. You can reach me at [email protected].

    SCOTT GALLOWAY

    Professor of Marketing,NYU SternFounder,L2

    E-Commerce as a Percentage of

    Total Retail Sales: Beauty & Skincare

    20052010

    * First ten months

    Source: National Bureau of Statistics of China, November 2012.

    Source: The Worlds Next E-Commerce Superpower,

    The Boston Consulting Group. November 2011.

    Chinese Beauty Market

    Retail Sales Growth

    19%17%

    17%

    2011

    2012

    *

    2010

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    ABOUT THE RANKING

    Digital IQ Classes

    Genius 140+Digital competence is a point of competitive differentiation.

    Successful multi-channel, digital campaigns; functional

    sites that cater to local needs; strong social presence

    and integration across platforms.

    Gifted 110139Brands are experimenting and innovating

    across their site, mobile, traditional and

    emerging social media platforms.

    Average 90109Digital presence is siloed

    by dimension.

    Challenged 7089Digital efforts lack.

    Feeble

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    GENIUS

    Este Lauder

    Lancme

    GIFTED

    Benefit Cosmetics

    Clarins

    Shiseido

    Sephora

    Chanel*

    Kiehls

    Biotherm

    SK-II

    AVERAGE

    Herborist

    Clinique

    Bobbi Brown

    Origins

    CHALLENGED

    Dior*

    M.A.C Cosmetics

    LOccitane en Provence

    Guerlain

    Yue-Sai

    FEEBLE

    Elizabeth Arden

    Genius

    DIGITAL IQ RANKING

    RANK BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION

    156

    Expanded social presence from three tosix platforms

    EL-Lady BBS features evergreen samplingcampaigns with fan reviews

    Optimized for local search. Outperforms allbrands on emerging search engine So.com

    Upgrade of RoseBeauty BBS cementsleadership position

    Shanghai version of Rouge in Love TVCoutperforms global edition

    Tapping the popular female-dominated socialmedia platforms Meilishuo and Mogujie

    2

    1

    142

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    GENIUS

    Este Lauder

    Lancme

    GIFTED

    Benefit Cosmetics

    Clarins

    Shiseido

    Sephora

    Chanel*

    Kiehls

    Biotherm

    SK-II

    AVERAGE

    Herborist

    Clinique

    Bobbi Brown

    Origins

    CHALLENGED

    Dior*

    M.A.C Cosmetics

    LOccitane en Provence

    Guerlain

    Yue-Sai

    FEEBLE

    Elizabeth Arden

    BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION

    3 9 129Presence on seven social platforms;

    best-in-class email marketing

    4 11 120Strong e-commerce mobile site

    features in-store sample redemption

    4 11 120One of two brands to launch

    e-commerce in 2012

    6 13 118Multiple campaigns on popular third-

    party BBS drive traffic to brand site

    7 15 117Movie star Zhou Xun boosts brands

    online and offline buzz

    8 17 115Custom tabs on Douban and a

    dedicated page on the site attract fans

    to games like design-your-own-skeleton

    9 19 112Sampling campaign includes microsite

    and iPhone app and teaches Chinese

    guys how to Live Like A Man

    BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION

    10 20 111Successful sampling campaigns on

    Sina Weibo and Youku generated

    100,000+ participants

    11 23 107Discover China Beauty UGC contest

    allows fans to vie online, offline, and via

    mobile to win a trip to Paris

    12 27 101Popular on third-party BBS, but brand

    doesnt maintain its own

    13 30 97

    Classroom section on site features

    extensive beauty advice from localbeauty consultants

    14 32 9419,000 virtual trees were planted

    on the brands BBS to support its

    ecological mission

    Gifted

    Average

    DIGITAL IQ RANKING

    * Chanel classified as Fashion brands in cross-category Digital IQ Index: China.

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    BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION

    15 40 88Haute couture show in Shanghai and

    Chinese version of DiorMag

    16 44 80Dynamic e-commerce site and

    best-in-class email marketing dont

    compensate for subpar social media

    17 46 78Active Sina Weibo page launched in

    July hosts frequent contests

    18 47 76Little Black Dress fragrance microsite

    included giveaway of 10,000 samples

    and links to Sephora e-commerce

    19 49 73Brand page on Meilishuo, the Chinese

    Pinterest, drives traffic to Tmall

    BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION

    20 79 54

    Brand-owned BBS is stronger than

    Chinese brand site and includes social

    integration, local campaigns, and

    product information

    Challenged Feeble

    DIGITAL IQ RANKING

    * Dior classified as Fashion brands in cross-category Digital IQ Index: China.

    GENIUS

    Este Lauder

    Lancme

    GIFTED

    Benefit Cosmetics

    Clarins

    Shiseido

    Sephora

    Chanel*

    Kiehls

    Biotherm

    SK-II

    AVERAGE

    Herborist

    Clinique

    Bobbi Brown

    Origins

    CHALLENGED

    Dior*

    M.A.C Cosmetics

    LOccitane en Provence

    Guerlain

    Yue-Sai

    FEEBLE

    Elizabeth Arden

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    E-Commerce

    Except for Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain, and lifestyle brands

    Chanel and Dior, all Beauty brands sell online in China, with

    Bobbi Brown and Shiseido launching in the past year. Ninety

    percent of Beauty brands have customer service for China,

    three quarters show prices in RMB and have user reviews and

    ratings, and 40 percent offer live chat. The Beauty category has

    the fastest average site load times at 14.2 seconds, compared

    with 24.1 seconds across all categories.

    The majority of e-commerce-enabled brands support free

    shipping with an average minimum order value of 485RMB

    ($78). Three brands provide free shipping with no minimum.

    Clarins is the only brand that does not currently provide

    any free shipping options. Only five brands allow customers

    to choose samples during checkout, versus 58 percent of

    Beauty brands in the U.S. Only Clarins and SK-II support

    m-commerce sites. Four brands (Benefit Cosmetics,

    Herborist, Lancme, and Shiseido) maintain e-commerce-

    enabled iOS apps.

    Localization is robust, all Beauty brands support at least

    one local Chinese payment method. In addition, 79

    percent of brands offer a formal government-issued receipt(fapiao) to confirm purchases and track tax payments.8In

    China, fapiaoare key to consumer trust and the perceived

    legitimacy of purchase.9

    8. Doing Business In China: What is a Fapiao and why is it so important? , TheMIGroup,

    February 2011.9. The Importance of Chinese Fapiaos When Doing Your Accounts, China Briefing,

    February 21, 2011.

    Free Shipping Options Across

    E-Commerce Sites

    Beauty Brands

    October 2012, n=14

    Payment Options Across E-Commerce Sites

    Percent of E-commerce Enabled Beauty Brands

    October 2012, n=14

    Site Functionality

    Percent of Beauty Brands Emplying the Following

    October 2012, n=20

    100%90% 75%

    75% 65% 55% 40% 30%

    KEY FINDINGS

    http://l2thinktank.com/mailto:info%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Brand%20Rankinghttp://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/china-beauty-supplement-2013/mailto:membership%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Membershiphttp://www.themigroup.com/public/whats_new/relonow/ReloNOW-33-Business%2520in%2520China-What%2520is%2520a%2520Fapiao.pdfhttp://www.china-briefing.com/news/2011/02/21/a-closer-look-at-chinas-fapiao-system.htmlhttp://www.china-briefing.com/news/2011/02/21/a-closer-look-at-chinas-fapiao-system.htmlhttp://www.themigroup.com/public/whats_new/relonow/ReloNOW-33-Business%2520in%2520China-What%2520is%2520a%2520Fapiao.pdfmailto:membership%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Membershiphttp://www.l2thinktank.com/research/china-beauty-supplement-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/mailto:info%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Brand%20Rankinghttp://l2thinktank.com/
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    Social Media

    Ninety percent of Beauty brands are on at least two platforms.

    Benefit Cosmetics increased its social presence from four to

    seven platforms, and Este Lauder is present on six.

    All beauty brands maintain a presence on Sina Weibo, but

    communities are much smaller than on Facebook. Beauty

    brands in the Index average 167,953 followers on Sina Weibo,

    versus 1.86 million on Facebook. Despite the smaller page

    sizes, the engagement rates on Sina Weibo (0.051%) still lag

    behind those registered on Facebook (0.071%).

    Sina Weibo added several Facebook-like features in 2012,including custom tabs and pinned posts. However, only

    10 beauty brands utilize pinned posts, and just six feature

    custom tabs. Five brands showcase products on these

    custom tabs, yet just three include pricing and none has full

    e-commerce integration.

    Chinese Social Media Adoption

    Percent of Beauty Brands Present on the Follow Platforms:

    October 2012, n=20

    100%

    91%

    of index

    20%

    of index

    35%

    16%

    of index

    25%

    9%

    of index

    10%

    7%

    of index

    5%

    17%

    of index

    15%

    29%of index

    50%

    51%

    of index

    45%

    Beauty brands in the Index average167,953 followers

    on Sina Weibo, versus1.86 millionon Facebook.

    KEY FINDINGS

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    TABLE OF CONTENTS

    Click to Jump To:

    5 Methodology

    6 Digital IQ Rankings6Genius

    7Gifted

    7Average

    8Challenged

    8Feeble

    11 Key Findings 9 On Top

    10E-Commerce

    11BBS Sites

    12Social Media

    14Other Social Media Platforms

    16Video

    17Search

    18Mobile

    19 Flash of Genius

    19 Lancme: Doll Eyes Bar

    20 Loral: Multi-Brand E-Commerce/Sampling

    21 Benefit and Lancme: Singles Day

    22 Sephora: Only Lady & Sephora Beauty Awards

    23 Dior and Chanel: Online Magazines

    24 Social Media Sampling

    25 Herborist: Discover China Beauty

    26 L2 Team

    27 About L2

    TABLE OF CONTENTS

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    L2 is a think tank for digital innovation.

    We are a membership organization that brings together thought leadership from

    academia and industry to drive digital marketing innovation.

    RESEARCH

    Digital IQ Index:The definitive benchmark for online competence, Digital IQ Indexreports score brands

    against peers on more than 600 quantitative and qualitative data points, diagnosing their digital strengths

    and weaknesses.

    L2 Collective:Series of benchmarking reports designed to help member brands better understand resources,

    human capital, budgets, and priorities supporting digital strategies.

    EVENTS

    Forums:Big-picture thinking and game-changing innovations meet education and entertainment.

    The largest gatherings of prestige executives in North America.

    300+ attendees

    Clinics:Executive education in a classroom setting with a balance of theory, tactics,

    and case studies.

    120180 attendees

    Working Lunches:Members-only lunches led by digital thought leaders and academics.

    Topic immersion in a relaxed environment that encourages open discussion.408 0 attendees

    CONSULTING

    Advisory Services:L2 works with brands to garner greater return on investment in digital initiatives.

    Advisory work includes Digital Roadmaps, Social Media Strategy, and Organizational Strategy engagements.

    MEMBERSHIP

    For membership info and inquiries: [email protected]

    Upcoming Events

    CLINIC: FOCUS 2013

    January 24, 2013 New York City

    CLINIC: BRANDS AS MEDIA COMPANIES

    January 31, 2013 Paris

    LUNCH: MOBILE LUNCH 2013

    February 5, 2013 New York City

    Upcoming Research

    DIGITAL IQ INDEX REPORTS:

    Hotels

    Automotive

    Haircare

    CROSS-PLATFORM:

    Mobile

    APAC

    L2 COLLECTIVEREPORTS:

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