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8/13/2019 Digital IQ Index China Beauty Supplement EXCERPT
1/13
1
China
Beauty
Supplement
January 22, 2013
SCOTT GALLOWAYNYU Stern
DOUG GUTHRIE
The George WashingtonSchool of Business
L2 2012 L2ThinkTank.com
EXCERPTDigital IQ Index: China Beauty SupplementTo access the full report, [email protected]
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E-Commerce ExplodesIf China is the epicenter of growth in beauty, e-commerce is ground zero.
With sales of more than $8 billion in 2011, China is the largest online beauty market
in the world, nine times that of the U.S.4Online beauty sales are projected to top
$20 billion by 2016, and have registered year-on-year growth of almost 200 percent
between 2006 and 2012.5In 2012, approximately 17 percent of luxury cosmetics in
China were purchased online versus four to six percent in mature markets.6Shiseido
and Bobbi Brown launched e-commerce in 2012, and all but two brands in this
years Index (Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain) sell online in China. Much of the volume
is incremental as e-commerce enables beauty brands to extend their reach to Tier
3 and Tier 4 cities. In 2012, Este Lauder reported that 70 percent of online sales in
China come from cities with no brick-and-mortar distribution.7
1. Cosmetics and Jewelry in China, Jeffrey Hayes, Facts and Details, December 2012.
2. National Bureau of Statistics of China, November 2012.
3. Beautifying China Is LOreal And Estee Lauders Big Opportunity, Trefis Team, Forbes, May 31, 2012.
4. ibid
5. Online Beauty Sales Slated to Top $20 Billion in China by 2016, Reports Kline, Kline & Company , April 23, 2012.6. Ruder Finn/Ipsos China Luxury Forecast 2012, August 2012.
7. Este Lauder taps small Chinese cities, Warc, November 5, 2012.
Maos RougeBanned by Mao and his political heirs until the 1980s, global beauty and cosmetics brands are relatively newto the Chinese market. Just 30 years later, China is the epicenter of growth for the industry as young women
armed with increasing disposable income spend 10 to 15 percent of their annual income on beauty products.1
Despite a slowing Chinese economy, the $17 billion domestic beauty industry is up 16.5 percent yearoveryear
through the first ten months of 2012.2Growth in the high-margin prestige segment has outpaced mass brands
as women continue to trade up.3
C
hallenges RemainAlthough the numbers are big, the majority of sales occur on Taobao and
other C2C channels and often feature gray market or off-price products.
Counterfeit sites and products continue to be an issue. The jury is out on Tmall,
Taobaos B2C platform. SK-II and Yue-Sai launched brand stores on Tmall in 2012,
while Benefit Cosmetics exited the platform in June. Lancme and local brand
Herborist removed links to Chinese third-party e-tailers, focusing efforts on their
direct businesses, though the latter continues to sell on Tmall and 360buy.
http://l2thinktank.com/mailto:info%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Brand%20Rankinghttp://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/china-beauty-supplement-2013/mailto:membership%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Membershiphttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.klinegroup.com/news/beauty_retailing_sales4-23-12.asphttp://www.warc.com/LatestNews/News/EmailNews.news%3FID%3D30588%26Origin%3DWARCNewsEmailhttp://www.warc.com/LatestNews/News/EmailNews.news%3FID%3D30588%26Origin%3DWARCNewsEmailhttp://www.klinegroup.com/news/beauty_retailing_sales4-23-12.asphttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-lauderhttp://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspeculations/2012/05/31/china-is-the-next-big-growth-market-for-loreal-and-estee-laudermailto:membership%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Membershiphttp://www.l2thinktank.com/research/china-beauty-supplement-2013/http://www.l2thinktank.com/research/spirits-2013/mailto:info%40l2thinktank.com?subject=Brand%20Rankinghttp://l2thinktank.com/ -
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Student Becomes the MasterDigital platforms are more than just a sales channel, and much of the
Beauty industrys digital marketing innovation is coming from China.
Brand BBS sites, including Lancmes RoseBeauty and E ste Lauders EL-Lady,
provide robust consumer engagement platforms to manage sampling, content,
and consumer data capture. Seven brands maintain these brand-specific
communities. CRM and loyalty initiatives in China are often the model for the
rest of the world and include a drive-to-retail component often managed through
a consumers mobile device. In addition, robust China-specific social media
programs inspire robust participation, tapping into the Chinese consumers
desire for self-expression.
Digital IQ = Shareholder ValueThis report is a supplement to our 2012 Digital IQ Index: China and
attempts to distill trends, best practices, and case studies in Beauty for
the China market.Our aim is to provide a tool for identifying areas of strength
and weakness, helping brands achieve greater return on digital investments. Like
the medium we are assessing, our approach is dynamic. Please reach out with
suggestions to improve our findings. You can reach me at [email protected].
SCOTT GALLOWAY
Professor of Marketing,NYU SternFounder,L2
E-Commerce as a Percentage of
Total Retail Sales: Beauty & Skincare
20052010
* First ten months
Source: National Bureau of Statistics of China, November 2012.
Source: The Worlds Next E-Commerce Superpower,
The Boston Consulting Group. November 2011.
Chinese Beauty Market
Retail Sales Growth
19%17%
17%
2011
2012
*
2010
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ABOUT THE RANKING
Digital IQ Classes
Genius 140+Digital competence is a point of competitive differentiation.
Successful multi-channel, digital campaigns; functional
sites that cater to local needs; strong social presence
and integration across platforms.
Gifted 110139Brands are experimenting and innovating
across their site, mobile, traditional and
emerging social media platforms.
Average 90109Digital presence is siloed
by dimension.
Challenged 7089Digital efforts lack.
Feeble
-
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GENIUS
Este Lauder
Lancme
GIFTED
Benefit Cosmetics
Clarins
Shiseido
Sephora
Chanel*
Kiehls
Biotherm
SK-II
AVERAGE
Herborist
Clinique
Bobbi Brown
Origins
CHALLENGED
Dior*
M.A.C Cosmetics
LOccitane en Provence
Guerlain
Yue-Sai
FEEBLE
Elizabeth Arden
Genius
DIGITAL IQ RANKING
RANK BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION
156
Expanded social presence from three tosix platforms
EL-Lady BBS features evergreen samplingcampaigns with fan reviews
Optimized for local search. Outperforms allbrands on emerging search engine So.com
Upgrade of RoseBeauty BBS cementsleadership position
Shanghai version of Rouge in Love TVCoutperforms global edition
Tapping the popular female-dominated socialmedia platforms Meilishuo and Mogujie
2
1
142
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GENIUS
Este Lauder
Lancme
GIFTED
Benefit Cosmetics
Clarins
Shiseido
Sephora
Chanel*
Kiehls
Biotherm
SK-II
AVERAGE
Herborist
Clinique
Bobbi Brown
Origins
CHALLENGED
Dior*
M.A.C Cosmetics
LOccitane en Provence
Guerlain
Yue-Sai
FEEBLE
Elizabeth Arden
BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION
3 9 129Presence on seven social platforms;
best-in-class email marketing
4 11 120Strong e-commerce mobile site
features in-store sample redemption
4 11 120One of two brands to launch
e-commerce in 2012
6 13 118Multiple campaigns on popular third-
party BBS drive traffic to brand site
7 15 117Movie star Zhou Xun boosts brands
online and offline buzz
8 17 115Custom tabs on Douban and a
dedicated page on the site attract fans
to games like design-your-own-skeleton
9 19 112Sampling campaign includes microsite
and iPhone app and teaches Chinese
guys how to Live Like A Man
BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION
10 20 111Successful sampling campaigns on
Sina Weibo and Youku generated
100,000+ participants
11 23 107Discover China Beauty UGC contest
allows fans to vie online, offline, and via
mobile to win a trip to Paris
12 27 101Popular on third-party BBS, but brand
doesnt maintain its own
13 30 97
Classroom section on site features
extensive beauty advice from localbeauty consultants
14 32 9419,000 virtual trees were planted
on the brands BBS to support its
ecological mission
Gifted
Average
DIGITAL IQ RANKING
* Chanel classified as Fashion brands in cross-category Digital IQ Index: China.
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BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION
15 40 88Haute couture show in Shanghai and
Chinese version of DiorMag
16 44 80Dynamic e-commerce site and
best-in-class email marketing dont
compensate for subpar social media
17 46 78Active Sina Weibo page launched in
July hosts frequent contests
18 47 76Little Black Dress fragrance microsite
included giveaway of 10,000 samples
and links to Sephora e-commerce
19 49 73Brand page on Meilishuo, the Chinese
Pinterest, drives traffic to Tmall
BEAUTY OVERALL BRAND DIGITAL IQ DESCRIPTION
20 79 54
Brand-owned BBS is stronger than
Chinese brand site and includes social
integration, local campaigns, and
product information
Challenged Feeble
DIGITAL IQ RANKING
* Dior classified as Fashion brands in cross-category Digital IQ Index: China.
GENIUS
Este Lauder
Lancme
GIFTED
Benefit Cosmetics
Clarins
Shiseido
Sephora
Chanel*
Kiehls
Biotherm
SK-II
AVERAGE
Herborist
Clinique
Bobbi Brown
Origins
CHALLENGED
Dior*
M.A.C Cosmetics
LOccitane en Provence
Guerlain
Yue-Sai
FEEBLE
Elizabeth Arden
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E-Commerce
Except for Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain, and lifestyle brands
Chanel and Dior, all Beauty brands sell online in China, with
Bobbi Brown and Shiseido launching in the past year. Ninety
percent of Beauty brands have customer service for China,
three quarters show prices in RMB and have user reviews and
ratings, and 40 percent offer live chat. The Beauty category has
the fastest average site load times at 14.2 seconds, compared
with 24.1 seconds across all categories.
The majority of e-commerce-enabled brands support free
shipping with an average minimum order value of 485RMB
($78). Three brands provide free shipping with no minimum.
Clarins is the only brand that does not currently provide
any free shipping options. Only five brands allow customers
to choose samples during checkout, versus 58 percent of
Beauty brands in the U.S. Only Clarins and SK-II support
m-commerce sites. Four brands (Benefit Cosmetics,
Herborist, Lancme, and Shiseido) maintain e-commerce-
enabled iOS apps.
Localization is robust, all Beauty brands support at least
one local Chinese payment method. In addition, 79
percent of brands offer a formal government-issued receipt(fapiao) to confirm purchases and track tax payments.8In
China, fapiaoare key to consumer trust and the perceived
legitimacy of purchase.9
8. Doing Business In China: What is a Fapiao and why is it so important? , TheMIGroup,
February 2011.9. The Importance of Chinese Fapiaos When Doing Your Accounts, China Briefing,
February 21, 2011.
Free Shipping Options Across
E-Commerce Sites
Beauty Brands
October 2012, n=14
Payment Options Across E-Commerce Sites
Percent of E-commerce Enabled Beauty Brands
October 2012, n=14
Site Functionality
Percent of Beauty Brands Emplying the Following
October 2012, n=20
100%90% 75%
75% 65% 55% 40% 30%
KEY FINDINGS
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Social Media
Ninety percent of Beauty brands are on at least two platforms.
Benefit Cosmetics increased its social presence from four to
seven platforms, and Este Lauder is present on six.
All beauty brands maintain a presence on Sina Weibo, but
communities are much smaller than on Facebook. Beauty
brands in the Index average 167,953 followers on Sina Weibo,
versus 1.86 million on Facebook. Despite the smaller page
sizes, the engagement rates on Sina Weibo (0.051%) still lag
behind those registered on Facebook (0.071%).
Sina Weibo added several Facebook-like features in 2012,including custom tabs and pinned posts. However, only
10 beauty brands utilize pinned posts, and just six feature
custom tabs. Five brands showcase products on these
custom tabs, yet just three include pricing and none has full
e-commerce integration.
Chinese Social Media Adoption
Percent of Beauty Brands Present on the Follow Platforms:
October 2012, n=20
100%
91%
of index
20%
of index
35%
16%
of index
25%
9%
of index
10%
7%
of index
5%
17%
of index
15%
29%of index
50%
51%
of index
45%
Beauty brands in the Index average167,953 followers
on Sina Weibo, versus1.86 millionon Facebook.
KEY FINDINGS
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Click to Jump To:
5 Methodology
6 Digital IQ Rankings6Genius
7Gifted
7Average
8Challenged
8Feeble
11 Key Findings 9 On Top
10E-Commerce
11BBS Sites
12Social Media
14Other Social Media Platforms
16Video
17Search
18Mobile
19 Flash of Genius
19 Lancme: Doll Eyes Bar
20 Loral: Multi-Brand E-Commerce/Sampling
21 Benefit and Lancme: Singles Day
22 Sephora: Only Lady & Sephora Beauty Awards
23 Dior and Chanel: Online Magazines
24 Social Media Sampling
25 Herborist: Discover China Beauty
26 L2 Team
27 About L2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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DIGITAL IQ INDEX REPORTS:
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CROSS-PLATFORM:
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