DIFFERENT DYIENG METHODS

8/3/2019 DIFFERENT DYIENG METHODS

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DEEPALI CHOUDHARY

NIFT-G

DYEING METHODS


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Dyeing- a general introduction

Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics.

Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical

material. After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut Chemical bond with fiber molecules.

Dyes are obtained from flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and plants as well

as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes. The other class of dyes

is known as synthetic dyes that are artificially prepared.

.

Dyeing methods

Textile materials can be dyed using batch, continuous or semi-continuous processes. The type

of process used dependson several things including type of material (fiber, yarn, fabric, fabric

construction, garment), generic type of fiber, sizeofdye lots and quality requirements inthedyed fabric. Machinery for dyeing must be resistant to attack by acids, bases, other

auxiliarychemicals and dyes. Stainless steel is normally used as the construction material for

all parts of dyeing machines that will come in contact with dye formulations.

Batch dyeing processes

Batch processes are the most common method used to dye textile materials. Batch dyeing is

sometimes called exhaust dyeing because the dye is gradually transferred from a relatively

large volume dye bath to the material being dyed over a relatively long period of time. The
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dye is said to exhaust -from the dye bath to thesubstrate. Textile substrates can be dyedin

batch processes in almost any stage of their assembly into a textile product including fiber,

yarn, fabric or garment. Generally, flexibility in color selection is better and cost of dyeing is

lower the closer dye application is to the end of the manufacturing process for a textile

product.

Some batch dyeing machines operate at temperatures only up to 1 OOC. Enclosure of the dye

machine so that it can be pressurized provides the capability to dye at temperatures higher

than 1OOC. Cotton,rayon, nylon, wool and some otherfibers dye well at temperatures of 1

OOC orlower. Polyester and some other synthetic fibers dye more easily at temperatures

higher than IOOC.

The three general types of batch dyeing machines are those in which the fabric is circulated,

those in which the dye bath is circulated while the material being dyed is stationary, and

those in which both the bath and material are circulated. Fabrics and garments are commonly

dyed in machines in which the fabric is circulated. The formulation is in turn agitated by

movement of the material being dyed. Fiber, yarn and fabric can all be dyed in machineswhich hold the material stationary and circulate the dye bath. Jet dyeing is the best example

of a machine that circulates both the fabric and the dye bath. Jet dyemachines are excellent

for knit fabrics, but woven fabrics can also be dyed using jet machines. The following are

examples of some batch dyeing machines.

Optimizing the Batch Dyeing Process

For any dyers the ultimate dream is to get the maximum out of the process of dyeing, at

minimal cost. For a batch dyeing process the following techniques can prove to be effective

for optimum utilization.


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Use machinery that are fitted with latest state-of-the-art automatic controllers of fill volume,

temperature and other dyeing cycle parameters, indirect system of cooling and heating,

innovative hoods and doors that lessens vapour losses.

Choosing the machinery that is exactly sized for the batch that needs to be processed. Also

confirmation that it is operated exactly within the specified range of nominal liquor ratios forwhich it is designed. It has been seen that machines that are operated with a consistent liquor

ratio while being loaded at 60 percent level of their nominal capacity gives optimum results.

With yarn dyeing machines this level can stretch to even 30% of the nominal capacity.

Opting new machineries that adheres to the following requirements:

Liquor ratio that is low-or-ultra-low, Complete in process separation of bath from substrate,

Mechanism that involves smooth internal separation of process liquor, Mechanical liquor

extraction that brings the carry-over to minimum, and Reduced cycle duration.

Replacement of conventional overflow-flood rinsing method with methods like drain and fill

or other methods (for example smart rinsing for fabric).

Proper re-use of rinsed water for the next dyeing session.

Re-use of the dye bath if technical considerations allows.

2) Continuous dyeing processes

The working of a continuous dyeing process is described here. The textile substrates are

feeded continuously into a dye range. The speeds can vary between 50 to 250 meters per

minute. According to Industry estimates Continuous dyeing is a popular dyeing method and

accounts for around 60% of total yardage of the products that are dyed.

A Continuous dyeing process typically consists the following. Dye application, dye fixation

with heat or chemicals and finally washing. Continuous dyeing has been found to be most

suitable for woven fabrics. Mostly continuous dye ranges are designed for dyeing blends of

polyester and cotton. The step of padding plays a key role in the operation of continuous

dyeing. Sometimes Nylon carpets are also dyed in continuous processes, but the design

ranges for them is unlike that for flat fabrics. Warps are also dyed in continuous process.

Very good examples of such warp dyeing are long chain warp dyeing and slasher dyeingusing indigo.

A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically sustainable for dyeing long

runs of a given shade. One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from batch

dyeing is the tolerance factor for color variation. That is more for continuous dyeing as

compared to batch dyeing. This is so because of two reasons a) the speed of the process. b)

presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye application. The process

that is illustrated below is designed for dyeing of blended fabric of polyester and cotton.


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Some of the popular methods in continuous dyeing process are Pad-steam, Wet-steam,thermosol dyeing, TAK dyeing, space dyeing, and pad-steam dyeing long chain warp dyeing

etc.

Continuous dyeing is most suitable for woven fabrics. Most continuous dye ranges a r e

designed for dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. Nylon carpets a r e sometimes dyed i

n continuous porcesses but the design of the range for continuous dyeing of carpet is

much different than t h a t for flat fabrics. Warps can also be dyed in continuous

processes. Examples of warp dyeing a r e slasher dyeing and long chain warp dyeing using

indigo.

Optimizing the Continuous dyeing Process

Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone to water

consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If some strict

control measures are taken up it is possible to reduce this losses of concentrated liquor. The

following steps may prove useful.

Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimising of volume capacity of

the dip through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation.

Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed on-line as separate

streams. They gets mixed only at the moment just before the delivery to the applicator.

Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to know that

it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pick up:

A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in comparison to the

processed fabric. The resulting values thus obtained are processed automatically and applied

in preparing the next comparable batch.


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Application of the technique of rapid batch dyeing. Here the dyestuff solution is prepared just

in time, with steps that are based on on-line measurement of the pick-up. This proves better

than those dyestuffs that are kept prepared already for the whole batch before the

commencement of the dyeing batch.

To increase washing efficiency based on the proven principles like reduction of carry-overand counter-current washing

3) Semi continuous dyeing process

In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad-jig, pad-roll the

fabric is first impregnated with the dye-liquor in, what is called a padding machine. Then it is

subjected to batch wise treatment in a jigger. It could also be stored with a slow rotation for

many hours. In the pad-batch this treatment is done at room temperature while in pad-roll it is

done at increased temperature by employing a heating chamber. This helps in fixation of the

dyes on to the fiber.

After this fixation process, the material in full width is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed in

continuous washing machines. There is only one point of difference between Continuous and

semi-continuous dyeing process is that in semi-continuous dyeing, the dye is applied

continuously by a padding. The fixation and washing remaining discontinuous. Liquor Ratio

in semi-continuous dyeing is not of much importance and is not taken as a parameter. One of

the widely used techniques for semi-continuous dyeing process is the Pad Batch Dyeing a

schematic diagram is given here for the semi-continuous dyeing process.

The following table shows some of the important machineries for semi-continuous and

continuous dyeing processes.

Make up Process Equipment

Woven and Knitted

Fabric, tufted carpet

Rope ContinousPadding Machine for Piece

in rope form

Open

width

Semi

Continous

Pad batch (or carp-

o-roll for carpet)

Padding Machine+ Washing

Machine

Pad batch (or carp- Padding Machine+ Washing


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o-roll for carpet) Machine

Pad -jigPadding Machine+ Jigger+

Washing Machine

ContinousPad stream

Padding Machine+

Steamer+ Washing Machine

Pad DryPadding Machine+ Stenter

frame+ Washing Machine

Yarn Dyeing

When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is called Yarn dyeing. There

are many forms of yarn dyeing- Skein (Hank) Dyeing, Package Dyeing, Warp-beam

Dyeing,and Space Dyeing.

Skein (Hank) Dyeing

The yarns are loosely arranged in skeins or hanks. These are then hung over a rung and

immersed in a dyebath in a large container. In this method, the colour penetration is the bestand the yarns retain a softer, loftier feel.

Package Dyeing

The yarns are wound on spools, cones or similar units and these packages of

yarn are stacked on perforated rods in a rack and then immersed in a tank. In

the tank, the dye is forced outward from the rods under pressure through the

spools and then back to the packages towards the center to penetrate the

entire yarn as thoroughly as possible.

Warp-beam dyeing

It is similar to package dyeing but more economical. Here, yarn is wound on to a perforated

warp beam, immersed in a tank and dyed under pressure.

Space Dyeing

In this method, the yarn is dyed at intervals along its length. For these two

procedures- knit- deknit method and OPI Space-Dye Applicator- are

adopted. In the first method, the yarn is knitted on either a circular or flat-

bed knitting machine and the knitted cloth is then dyed and subsequently it
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is deknitted. Since the dye does not readily penetrate the areas of the yarn where it crosses

itself, alternated dyed and undyed spaces appear. The OPI Space-Dye Applicator technique

produces multi coloured space- dyed yarns. The yarns are dyed intermittently as they run at

high speeds of upto 1000 yards (900 m) per minute through spaced dyebaths with continuous

subjection to shock waves produced by compressed air assuming supersonic velocities.


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Styles and techniques of dyeing

Resist dyeing

Resist-dyeing is a term for a number of traditional methods ofdyeing textiles with patterns.

Methods are used to "resist" or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a

pattern and ground. The most common forms use wax, some type of paste, or a mechanical

resist that manipulates the cloth such as tying or stitching. Another form of resist involves

using a chemical agent in a specific type of dye that will repel another type of

dye printed over the top. The most well-known varieties today include tie-dye and batik.

Basic methods

Wax or paste: melted wax or some form of paste is applied to cloth before being dipped in

dye. Wherever the wax has seeped through the fabric, the dye will not penetrate. Sometimes

several colors are used, with a series of dyeing, drying and waxing steps. The wax may also

be applied to another piece of cloth to make a stencil, which is then placed over the cloth, and

dye applied to the assembly; this is known as resist printing.

Paper stencils may also be used; another type of resist printing. The same method is used in

art in printmaking, in one form ofscreenprinting.

Mechanical: the cloth is tied, stitched, or clamped using clothespegs or wooden blocks to

shield areas of the fabric.

Chemical: a modern textile printing method, commonly achieved using two different classes

of fiber reactive dyes, one of which must be of the vinyl sulfone type. A chemical-resisting

agent is combined with dye Type A, and printed using the screenprint method and allowed to

dry. A second dye, Type B, is then printed overtop. The resist agent in Type A chemically

prevents Type B from reacting with the fabric, resulting in a crisp pattern/ground

relationship.
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Tie-dye

Tie-dye is a process ofresist dyeing textiles or clothing which is made from knit or woven

fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright colors. It is a modern version of traditional

dyeing methods used in many cultures throughout the world. "Tie-dye" can also describe theresulting pattern or an item which features this pattern. Tie-dyeing became fashionable in the

West in the late 1960s and early 1970s as part ofhippie style.

Tie-dyeing is accomplished by folding the material into a pattern, and binding it with string

or rubber bands. Dye is then applied to only parts of the material. The ties prevent the entire

material from being dyed. Designs are formed by applying different colors of dyes to

different sections of the wet fabric. A wet t-shirt is much easier to use rather than just dyeing

on a dry t-shirt. Once complete, the material is rinsed, and the dye is set.

Mudmee tie-dye

Mudmee tie-dye is mainly created in Thailand and neighboring part ofLaos. It uses different

shapes and colors than other types of tie-dye, and the colors are, in general, more subdued.

Another difference is that the base color is black.
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Fold and patterns

Below is a list of common modern tie-dyeing folds and patterns.

Spiral

Spiral patterns are created by gathering a small section,usually with a clothes pin or a kitchen

fork, in the middle of the fabric and slowly rotating the piece creating pleats of fabric

arranged in swirls around a central point. It is then gathered into a flat round bundle and the

different wedges of the circular bundle are usually dyed different colors to create a greater

spiral effect.

V

The 'V' shape is achieved by folding a shirt in half vertically, then a line is drawn diagonally

from the shoulder area down to the center fold of the shirt. The fabric is then accordingly

folded along the line and bound into one or more areas to which the dye is applied. This will

show in the shape of a 'V'.

Random

This category can hold several different patterns, the majority of which have nothing to do

with each other; they can be combinations or they can be as chaotic as bundling the item to be

dyed.

Random circles

This effect is made by tying knots with string or elastic bands in different places. The morefabric that is tied, the larger the circles.
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Batik

Batik is a cloth that traditionally uses a manual wax-resist dyeingtechnique. Batik or fabrics

with the traditional batik patterns are found in Indonesia, Japan, China, Azerbaijan, India, Sri

Lanka, Egypt, Nigeria, Senegal, Malaysia and Singapore

Javanese traditional batik, especially from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, has notable meanings

rooted to the Javanese conceptualization of the universe. Traditional colours include indigo,

dark brown, and white, which represent the three major Hindu Gods (Brahm, Visnu, and

iva). This is related to the fact that natural dyes are most commonly available in indi go and

brown. Certain patterns can only be worn by nobility; traditionally, wider stripes or wavy

lines of greater width indicated higher rank. Consequently, during Javanese ceremonies, one

could determine the royal lineage of a person by the cloth he or she was wearing.

Types and Variations of Batik

Javanese Kraton Batik (Javanese court Batik)

Javanese kraton (court) Batik is the oldest batik tradition known in Java. This type of batik

has earthy color tones such as black, brown, and dark yellow (sogan), sometimes against a

white background. The motifs of traditional court batik have symbolic meanings. Some

designs are restricted: larger motifs can only be worn by royalty; and certain motifs are not

suitable for women, or for specific occasions (e.g., weddings).

The palace courts (keratonan) in two cities in central Java are known for preserving and

fostering batik traditions:

Surakarta (Solo City) Batik. Traditional Surakarta court batik is preserved and fostered

by the Susuhunan and Mangkunegaran courts. The main areas that produce Solo batik are
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the Laweyan and Kauman districts of the city. Solo batik typically has sogan as the

background color. PasarKlewer near the Susuhunan palace is a retail trade center.

Yogyakarta Batik. Traditional Yogya batik is preserved and fostered by the Yogyakarta

Sultanate and the Pakualaman court. Usually Yogya Batik has white as the background

color. Fine batik is produced at Kampung Taman district. Beringharjo market

near Malioboro street is well known as a retail batik trade center in Yogyakarta.

Pesisir Batik (Coastal Batik)

Pesisir batik is created and produced by several areas on the northern coast of Java and on

Madura. As a consequence of maritime trading, the Pesisir batik tradition was more open to

foreign influences in textile design, coloring, and motifs, in contrast to inland batik, which

was relatively independent of outside influences. For example, Pesisir batik utilizes vivid

colors and Chinese motifs such as clouds, phoenix, dragon, qilin, lotus, peony, and floral

patterns.

Pekalongan Batik. The most famous Pesisir Batik production area is the town of

Pekalongan in Central Java province. Batik Pekalongan was influenced by both Dutch-

European and Chinese motifs, for example thebuketan motifs was influenced by

European flower bouquet.

Cirebon Batik. Also known as Trusmi Batik because that is the primary production area.

The most well known Cirebon batik motif is megamendung (rain cloud) that was used in

the former Cirebon Kraton. This cloud motif shows Chinese influence.
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Cirebon Batik depicting sea creatures

Lasem Batik. Lasem batik is characterized by a bright red color

called abanggetihpithik (chicken blood red). Batik Lasem is heavily influenced by

Chinese culture.

Tuban Batik. Batikgedog is the speciality of TubanBatik, the batik was created from

handmade tenun (woven) fabrics.

Madura Batik. Madurese Batik displays vibrant colors, such as yellow, red, and green.

Madura unique motifs for example pucuktombak (spear tips), also various flora and

fauna images.

Indonesian Batik from other areas

Java

Priangan Batik or Sundanese Batik is the term proposed to identify various batik cloths

produced in the "Priangan" region, a cultural region in West Java and Northwest Java

(Banten). Traditionally this type of batik is produced by Sundanese people in the several

district ofWest Java such as Ciamis, Garut, anTasikmalaya; however it also

encompasses Kuningan Batik which demonstrate Cirebon Batik influences, and also

Banten Batik that developed quite independently and have its own unique motifs. The

motifs of Priangan batik are visually naturalistic and strongly inspired by flora (flowers
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and swirling plants) and fauna (birds especially peacock and butterfly). The variants and

production centers of Priangan Batik are:

Ciamis Batik. Ciamis used to rival other leading batik industry centers in Java during

early 20th century. Compared to other regions, Ciamis batik is stylistically less

complex. The flora and fauna motifs known as ciamisan are drawn in black, white,

and yellowish brown. Motifs are similar to coastal Cirebon Batik, but the thickness of

coloring share the same styles as inland batik. The thick coloring of Ciamis batik is

called sarian.

Garut Batik. This type of batik is produced in the Garut district of West

Java. Garutan batik can be identified by its distinctive colors, gumading (yellowish

ivory), indigo, dark red, dark green, yellowish brown, and purple

Tasikmalaya Batik. This type of batik is produced in the Tasikmalaya district, West

Java. Tasikmalaya Batik has its own traditional motif such as umbrella. Center of

Tasikmalaya Batik can be found in Ciroyom District about 2 km from city center of

Tasikmalaya.

Kuningan Batik.

Banten Batik. This type of batik employs bright and soft pastel colors. It represents a

revival of a lost art from the Sultanate of Banten, rediscovered through archaeological

work during 2002-2004. Twelve motifs from locations such as Surosowan and

several other places have been identified.

Java Hokokai Batik. This type is characterized by flowers in a garden surrounded by

butterflies. The long fabrics usually is done in two pattern calledpagi/sore (Indonesian:

morning and afternoon) refer to two type of motifs in one sheet of fabric, as the solution

of cotton fabrics scarcity during war time.

Bali

Balinese Batik. As Balinese Hindu culture does not restrict the depiction of images, the

Balinese have traditionally focused more on sculpture and painting than on textiles.

Balinese batik was influenced by neighbouring Javanese Batik and is relatively recent

compared to the latter island, having been stimulated by the tourism industry and

consequent rising demand for souvenirs (since the early 20th century). In addition to the
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traditional wax-resist dye technique and industrial techniques such as the stamp (cap) and

painting, Balinese batik sometimes utilizes ikat (tie dye). Balinese batik is characterized

by bright and vibrant colors, which the tie dye technique blends into a smooth gradation

of color with many shades.

Sumatra

Jambi Batik. Trade relations between the Melayu Kingdom in Jambi and Javanese coastal

cities have thrived since the 13th century. Therefore, the northern coastal areas of Java

(Cirebon, Lasem, Tuban, and Madura) probably influenced Jambi in regard to batik. In

1875, Haji Mahibat from Central Java revived the declining batik industry in Jambi. The

village of MudungLaut in Pelayangan district is known for producing Jambi batik. This

Jambi batik, as well as Javanese batik, influenced the batik craft in the Malay peninsula.

Minangkabau Batik. Minangkabau ethnic also have batik called as Batiak TanahLiek(Clay Batik). They use clay as dye for batik. The fabric was immersed in clay for

more than 1 day to make permanent color and after that they design the motif of animal

and flora

Aceh Batik.

Palembang Batik.

Riau Batik.

Shibori

Shiboriis a Japanese term for several methods ofdyeing cloth with a pattern by binding,

stitching, folding, twisting, compressing it, or capping. Some of these methods are known in

the West as tie-dye.

Techniques

There is an infinite number of ways one can bind, stitch, fold, twist, or compress cloth for

shibori, and each way results in very different patterns. Each method is used to achieve a

certain result, but each method is also used to work in harmony with the type of cloth used.

Therefore, the technique used in shibori depends not only on the desired pattern, but the

characteristics of the cloth being dyed. Also, different techniques can be used in conjunction

with one another to achieve even more elaborate results.
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Ne-makishibori example

Kanokoshibori

Kanokoshibori is what is commonly thought of in the West as tie-dye. It involves binding

certain sections of the cloth to achieve the desired pattern. Traditional shibori requires the use

of thread for binding. The pattern achieved depends on how tightly the cloth is bound and

where the cloth is bound. If random sections of the cloth are bound, the result will be a

pattern of random circles. If the cloth is first folded then bound, the resulting circles will be in

a pattern depending on the fold used.

Miura shibori

Miura shibori is also known as looped binding. It involves taking a hooked needle and

plucking sections of the cloth. Then a thread is looped around each section twice. The thread

is not knotted; tension is the only thing that holds the sections in place. The resulting dyed

cloth is a water-like design. Because no knot is used, miureashibori is very easy to bind and

unbind. Therefore, this technique is very often used.

Kumoshibori

Kumoshibori is a pleated and bound resist. This technique involves pleating sections of the

cloth very finely and evenly. Then the cloth is bound in very close sections. The result is a

very specific spider-like design. This technique is very precise to produce this specific

design.

Nui shibori

Nui shibori includes stitched shibori. A simple running stitch is used on the cloth then pulled

tight to gather the cloth. The thread must be pulled very tight to work, and a wooden dowel

must often be used to pull it tight enough. Each thread is secured by knotting before being

dyed.
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This technique allows for greater control of the pattern and greater variety of pattern, but it is

much more time consuming.

Arashishibori

Arashishibori is also known as pole-wrapping shibori. The cloth is wrapped on a diagonalaround a pole. Then the cloth is very tightly bound by wrapping thread up and down the pole.

Next, the cloth is scrunched on the pole. The result is a pleated cloth with a design on a

diagonal. "Arashi" is the Japanese word for storm. The patterns are always on a diagonal in

arashishibori which suggest the driving rain of a heavy storm.

Itajimeshibori

Itajimeshibori is a shaped-resist technique. Traditionally, the cloth is sandwiched between

two pieces of wood, which are held in place with string. More modern textile artists can be

found using shapes cut from acrylic or plexiglass and holding the shapes with C-clamps. Theshapes prevent the dye from penetrating the fabric they cover.

Ikkat

Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist

dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres.

Bindings, which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the desired patterns and

the threads are dyed. Alteration of the bindings and the dyeing of more than one color

produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When all of the dyeing is finished the bindings are

removed and the threads are ready to be woven into cloth.

The defining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, into the

threads before cloth construction, the weaving of the fabric, takes place. Herein lies the

difference between ikat and tie-dye. In tie-dye the fabric is woven first and the resist bindings

are then applied to the fabric which is dyed.

In warp ikat the patterns are clearly visible in the warp threads on the loom even before the

plain colored weft is introduced to produce the fabric. In weft ikat it is the weaving or weft

thread that carries the dyed patterns which only appear as the weaving proceeds. In weft ikat

the weaving proceeds much slower than in warp ikat as the passes of the weft must be

carefully adjusted to maintain the clarity of the patterns.
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Double Ikat is where both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to stringing on the loom.

Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loom is used, though any variant or modern

loom may be used.

Warp ikat

Ikat created by dyeing the warp are the more simple to make. First the material, be

it cotton, silk, wool or other, is tied into bundles. The bundles may be covered with wax (as

per batik), wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material- to prevent

unwanted dye permeation.

Weft ikat

Weft ikat uses resist-dye for the weft alone. The variance in colour of the weft means

precisely delineated patterns are more difficult to weave.As the weft is commonly a continuous strand aberrations or variation in colouration are

cumulative. Weft ikat are commonly employed where pattern precision is of less aesthetic

concern than the overall resultant fabric. Some patterns become transformed by the weaving

process into irregular and erratic designs. Guatemalan ikat is well-noted for its beautiful

"blurs" in colouration.

Oshima

Oshimaikat is a uniquely Japanese ikat. In Oshima, the warp and weft threads are both used

as warp to weave stiff fabric, upon which the thread for the ikat weaving is spot-dyed. Then

the mats are unraveled and the dyed thread is woven into oshima cloth.
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Other variants

Cambodian

The Cambodian ikat is a weft ikat woven of silk on a multi-shaft loom with an

uneven twill weave which results in the weft threads showing more prominently on the front

of the fabric than the back

Thai

In Thailand, the local ikat type of woven cloth is known as Matmi (also spelt 'Mudmee' or

'Mudmi').]Traditional Mudmi cloth was woven for daily use among the nobility. Other uses

included ceremonial costumes. Warp ikat in cotton is also produced by the Karen and Lawa

tribal peoples in northern Thailand.

South & Central American

Ikat patterns are common among the Andes peoples, and native people

ofArgentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guatemala, Mexico, Peru, and

Venezuela. The famousMapuche shawl or poncho of the "Huaso" cowboys of Chile are one

of the most famous to the Westerner.
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Dyeing machinery

Textile fibers such as cotton,wooletc are dyed in various forms such as loose cotton,sliver

yarn and cloth,the largest amount dyed being in the cloth form since it is the most convenient

and the cheapest of the processes.Inaddition,it requires less labour and less chemicals.Thedyeing of different forms of cotton requires different forms of machinery,since the method of

handling the material to be dyed varies from form to form.In the early dyes ,dyeing was

carried out in simple ways and it is only during the last 60 to 70 years that a great

development in the quantity and quality of dyeing has been achieved.In many of the cases

batch processes of dyeing have been replaced by continous process,thereby increasing the

production tremendously.This has been achieved to such an extent that it is not possible to

operate this process economically unless the production is very large.Some of the dyeing

machines developed earlier have become obsolete.

Dyeing of loose cotton

Dyeing of loose cotton becomes necessary when mixed yarns are needed ..Dyeing of loose

cotton is rendered expensive since the fibers tend to get matted and subsequently get formed

in the preparatory process before spinning.The staple length of the fibre is also

decreased,incurring a loss; the waste linters cannot be used in any other cellulose industry as

the waste linters are colored.Further, valuable dyes get wasted as dyed linters.The natural oils

and fats present in cotton offer considerable resistant to the uniform dyeing of cotton.Theses

oils and fats should not be removed from cotton as there presence is necessary during

spinning.

However, dyeing of loose cotton doesnot always need special appliances, the operation being

frequently done in vats or boilers,in which the material is turned by poles or forks.Circulation

of dye liquor through the pact fibers is finding more and more favour.The uneven dyeing

caused by matting of fiber is not noticeable after carding and combing, so that as long as the

depth of shade of the final yarn is the right one, uneven dyeing of the fibers would not be a

great disadvantage. In short, the disadvantages of loose cotton dyeing are more than balanced

by the advantages.One of the greatest advantages of loose cotton dyeing is the ease of

penetration of the dye liquor into the individual fibers.The tight weave of the fabric and the

twist of the yarn resistance to the even dyeing with good penetration n the case of individualfibres.This does not exist in loose cotton dyeing.Any unevenness of the shade is randomist

during the various processes of spinning.

Principles of dyeing machine construction

Dyeing is mostly a physico-chemical process and in some cases the chemical processes as

well and involves essentially a transport phenomenon, in which the dye molecule leaves one

medium such as water, emulsion or solvent enters the fiber substance. The success of


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practical dyeing depends on the uniform application of the dyes or mixtures of dyes, coupled

with maximum dye utilization in a reasonable time so as to make it economically feasible.in

order to achieve this four forms of energy are normally employed

1) Chemical, 2) thermal(high temp), 3)mechanical and 4) the fluid.

The conventional dyeing machines re-constructed on the basic principle of either the

movement of material to be dyed in an essentially stationary dye liquor as in jigger, padding

mangle or winch,or the movement or circulation of dye liquor through stationary package of

the material as in cheese dyeing or beam dyeing machines. In winch or jigger dyeing, the

chemical ,thermal and mechanical energies can be used with advantage but the transport

energy of the fabric is not large.The dye bath is stagnant except for the movement created by

the traveling fabric and the liquor dropping from it .after jet-dyeing machines were

introduced, substantial kinetic energy in the form of rapidly moving fluid, the fourh form of

energy mentioned above is employed in addition to the mechanical energy in the form of

fabric transport.As the result, the dyeing process is tremendously accelerated.The high rate of

re-circulation of the dye liquor and the extreme penetration and the interchange of the

dyestuff from the bath into the fabric ensure level dyeing.

Hand dyeing

The dyeing of loose cotton by hand can be carried out in the simplest possible

appliances.This may be done in vats or circular tubes made of either wood or copper.The

cotton being dyed may be stirred in the vat either with poles or with rakes fixed to a rotating

shaft, care being taken to see that every part of the lot is turned over and over and that themass of the fiber is adequately open to minimize matting.In the later machines, The dye vats

and topa are largely replaced by machines in which the opening up of the fibers mass is done

mechanically.

Some of the earlier types of dyeing machines are described below :

1) Jagenburg machineOne of the earliest dyeing machine is one designed by jagenburg.This is the

combination of dyeing by earlier methods and some form of mechanization. The

machine consists essential of a metal rectangular or conical shape vat, fixed onsupports and heated from beneath.A shift with paddles radiating from the centre and

fixed at 90 degree to each other is provided in the vat and is rotated by hand.Due to

mechanization of such machines high rate of production of dyed cotton may be

achieved.


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The advantage of this type of machine include the following :

1) the individual fibers are dyed,

2) the whole lot is uniformly dyed,

3) The frictional force exerted on the cotton fibers during working produce some

luster in the fibers.

4) The cost of dyeing is low.

5)

Special effects can be produced by blending dyed and undyed fibers before

spinning.

The disadvantages of this method of dyeing include the following :

1) cotton gets entangled and matted during dyeing and it is difficult to set it right,thereby

causing some loss of fibers as well as dyes.

2) Only a limited number of dyes can be dyed.Example,only those dyes having very high

solubility in water should be used.

3) During the dyeing process, the natural oils and waxes present in cotton fibers are

removed, making the cotton brittle.Hence it is necessary to spray aqueous emulsions

of oil o the dyed fibres prior to spinning.

4) The spinning waste cannot be used in other cellulose industries because of the

presence of the dyes in the fibers.

2) Clauder-Weldon machineThis machine consists of a through with a sloping side at one side and contains the dye

solution at the required temperature. A cylindrical perforated drum of copper is provided


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in the trough.The flanges at the end of the drum carry a shaft.The drum is divided into

four

compartments with

perforated partitions and each f the compartment is provided with a manhole for filling

and removing the material.Protruding fingers are provided on the shaft to prevent

slippage of cotton and to keep the cotton fibers in the open state.The heated dye liquor

rushes ito the drum.The movement of the material is carried out by the rotation of that

drum, while the agitation of liquor also takes place.Thedum is rotated by spur

gear.Soaping, wasinhg and other operations may be carried out in this machne. These

machines are built in various sizes from 100lb to 1 ton. Motors are needed to run these

machines.The floor space for 100lb capacity machine is 12X 11 and a total height of 8.

3) Simplex machineThis machine essentially consists of a suitably supported rectangular trough.Somewhere

near the bottom of the trough a perforated plate is provided and two or more hooks areattached to the plate.A steam pipe is placed below the perforated plate.Loose cotton is

packed in the trough above the false bottom and another perforated plate is on the top of

he packed material to be dyed.The lower perforated pate can be given an up and down

motion by means of ropes


25/46

and an eccentric pulley, thereby compressing and releasing the packed cotton alternately.This

produces the required movement of the material in the dye liquor contained in the trough.The

liquor is heated by steam.This machine is well suited for dyeing raw wool.

4) Rhodes machine

The machine consists of a rectangular trough,divided into three compartments by two

plate.The lower portion of this late and the bottom of the middle compartment are alsoperforated.Steam pipes are provided at the bottom of the trough.Cotton is packed in

the middle compartment and kept in position by another perforated plate at the top,

where it


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is the liquor falls on the top of the middle compartment, ensuring continous circulation of the

dye liquors.The machine also is well suited for dyeing raw wool.Consumption of

steam,water,chemical is very large in this machine, while simplicity of operation and the low

cost f construction of the plant are its main advantages.This machine doesnot requires a pump

for the circulation of the dye liqour through the packed fibers.However, there is a limit to therate of circulation of the liquor.

5) Dreze machine

This machine consist of a cylindrical cage with a false bottom and provided with

acentral puffer tube.A steam injector system is provided in the bottom.The material to

be dyed is packed in the cage which is then lowered into the outer vessel.The

circulation and the hating of the dye liquor are affected by injecting live seam, which

throws the liquor

upward into the central puffer tube and later against metal sealed, hence it percolates

through the packed material then through the false bottom and is again thrown by

injector. This machine is also suited for dyeing wool.If cotton is packed in the

machine, it offers considerableresistance to the circulation of the dye liquor.


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6) Schmidts machine

This machine consists of two cylindrical vats one being mounted on the other.The

outer vat holds the dye liquor and the inner,the material to be dyed.The inner vat is

held in position and is opened at the top and has a false bottom which allows the dye

liquor to pass through.Duringdyeing,the material packed in the inner vat is enclosedabove and belw by copper wires to prevent it from being displaced by the movement

of the outer vat. A steam coil is fixed at the bottom of outer vat.The liquor passes

around the coil and the temperature of the liquor and that of the material being dyed

are practically the same.

This is a definite advantage of this machine over others described so far.A paddle wheel is

placed at the centre of the vats and is worked by an electric motors.The liquor is made to rise

up by the rotation of the paddle and on reaching the top rim of the inner vat, it gets poored

over the material contained in it. When the liquor is forced upward in the space between the

two vats a partial vaccum is created at the bottom of the vats,so that the liquor pouring over

the material being dyed forces its way through he bottom and the circulation repeats.

7) Hussong loose cotton dyeing machine

This machine is similar in principle Schmidts machine except that in this machine thepaddle is placed in the side compartment instead at the centre.The solution rises in the

side compartment and gets poured over the material, through which it percolates


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down and collects at the bottom compartment from where it is sucked and again

forced up the side compartment.

The main feature of the later dyeing machine are the compactness of packing of the

material and the use of powerful pumps for the efficient circulation of the dye liquor

through the package.The compactly packed marterials offers considerable resistance

to the floor of the liquor through the material and as a result uniformity of dyeing

suffers.Mechanical agitation of the liquor increase the temperature and the control of

the dyeing condition is rendered difficult.

8) Obermaier machine

This machine consists of a cylindrical perforated carrier of stainless steel with asolid

bottom and when packed with loose fibres to be dyed and lowered into an outer

cylindrical dye vessel called container, fits into a seating of the later and then

connected to acentrifugal pump by suitable piping.A solid lid fits on to the carrier and

is provided with a hook.The carrier is also provided with a perforated central tube.The

cotton is first packed in the carrier by compressing as uniformly as possible and is

placed in the dye-vessel by an overhead crane. The dye liquor at the proper

concentration and temperature is forced by the pump through the central perforated

tube.


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The solution comes out of the carrier by forcing its way through the packed columns

of fibers and is taken out and fed back into the central tube.

The capacity of such machines varies from 100lb to ton.By having a spare carrier

this machine may be made semi-continuos by the loading the sphere carrier whileone

lot is being dyed and inserting this carrier after the container.

A severe criticism had been leveled against this machine of the dye liquor from inside

out.The concentrated dye liquor emerging from the central perforated tubes comes

into contact with a smaller amount of the fibers then when it leaves the carrier.

9) Long close loose cotton dyeing machine

This machine has the same features of the Obermeirmachine in that both contain a

carrier and a container.However, the long close carrier is of a conical shape instead of

the cylindrical one of the other.The conical carrier has a perforated base and

aperforated cover.The carrier can be fitted in the outer container and when in position

makes a leak proof joint with he conical seating provided for the purpose.Cotton is

packed in the container and is placed in position the dye liquor circulated by the

centrifugal pump.Thus concentrated dye liquor comes into contact.


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Steam coils are provided it the outer container for heating the dye liquor.After dyeing the dye

bath is drained and water is circulated towash the material and h carrier lifted by a crane and

kept on a stand.It is then turned in a vertical lain to dump the cotton out of the carrier.As in

the other machine, by having a sphere carrier the dyeing process can be made semi-

continuous.

Machines used for batch dyeing

Becks

Atmospheric becks can be used for dyeing at temperatures up to 1OO C. Pressurizedbecks

are used for dyeing at temperatures higher than 1OO C.dye beck consists of a reservoir or

trough which contains the dyebath and a reel to move the loop of fabric through the dye

formulation. The liquor to goods ratio used in becks is typically 15:l or higher although becks

using ratios as low as 4:l are available.The dye beck is sometimes called a winch because of

the winch mechanism used to move the fabric. The ends of the fabric piece to be dyed are

sewn together to make a continuous loop. The reel pulls the fabric out of the dye liquor in the

trough and over an idler roll. After leaving the reel, the fabricslidesdown the back wall of the

beck and gradually works its way from the back toward the front of the machine.Severalloops of fabric of about the same length are dyed simultaneously. The individual loops are

separated from one another by a dividing device called the peg rail extending the width of the

machine.The peg rail contains smooth pegs spaced several centimeters apart to provide an

opening through which the fabric rope can pass. Loops of fabric are typically 50 to 100

meters long depending on the weight of the fabric and other factors. The number of loops

processed depends on the size of a particular machineandmayvary from only one loop in a

laboratory or sample machine to 50 or more loops in a large production machine.The trough

is slanted at its rear to allow the fabric layers to slide down into the dye liquor and move


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gradually toward the front of the machine. A deep trough and steep sloping back works well

for fabrics which do not crease easily while a shallower more gradual slope helps to prevent

creasing. The idler roll presses some of the excess dye liquor from the fabric, improving

exchange of the liquid in the fabric with formulation in the trough.Chemicals and dyes used

in the dyeing are added to a compartment at the front of the beck. The divider separating thecompartment from the trough is perforated, allowing the added chemicals to gradually

become mixed with the liquor in the trough.Live steam is injected into the compartment to

heat the liquor to the required temperature. The injection of steam vigorously agitates the

compartment and aids in mixing the dyes and chemicals into the dye liquor. The steam

injected into the beck condenses in the liquor so some dilution of the dye liquor must be

tolerated.The greatest advantages of becks are simplicity, versatility and relatively low price.

Becks subject fabrics to relatively low lengthwise tension and encourage the development of

yarn crimp and fabric bulk. However, becks tend to use large amounts of water, chemicals

and energy.Becks can cause abrasion, creasing and distortion of some fabrics.Acontinuous

strand can bedyed instead of the usual multiple loops of fabric if the beck has this capability.

In this system, a single long strand of fabric is gradually spiraled through the dye formulation

from one side of the beck to the other. Thismethod decreases the requirements formaterial

handling, reduces waste andeliminates the necessity for trimming andsewing of individual

loops.

Jet Dyeing

Jet dyeing machines resemble becks in that a continuous loop of fabric is circulated through

the machine. However, the cloth transport mechanism is dramatically different in these two

types of machines. A high speed jet of dye liquid created by a venturi transports the fabricthrough the cloth guide tube of the jet machine. Ajet machine has a cloth guide tube for each

loop of fabric being processed.Apowerful pump circulates the liquor through a heat

exchanger outside of the main vessel and back into the jet machine. The fabric travels at high

velocity of 200-800 meters per minute while it is in the cloth guide tube. The fabric leaving

the cloth guide tube enters a larger capacity cloth chamber and gradually advances back

toward the cloth guide tube.

Pressurizing a jet dyeing machine provides for high temperaturedyeingcapability.High

temperature jet machines are especially suitable for delicate fabrics made of texturized

polyester. Some atmospheric machines designed for dyeing temperatures up to lOOC also usethe jet circulation principle.

Jet dyeing machines provide the following advantages compared to atmospheric becks for

dyeing fabrics made from texturized polyester.

- Vigorous agitation of fabric and dye formulation in the cloth tube increases the dyeingrate and uniformity.

- Rapid circulation of fabric through the machine minimizes creasing because the fabricis not held in any one configuration very long.

- Lengthwise tension on the fabric is low so the fabric develops bulk and fullness ofhandle.


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- Dyeing at high temperature of about130C gives rapid dyeing, improveddyeutilization, improved fastness propertiesand makes possible the elimination

ofcarriers required when dyeing at lowertemperatures.The lower liquor ratio used in

jetdyeing allows shorter dye cycles and saveschemicals and energy.

-

Some disadvantages of jet dyeing machinescompared to becks are as follows:

- Capital and maintenance costs arehigher.- Limited accessibility makes cleaningbetween dyeings and sampling for colorduring

the dye cycle difficult.

- The jet action tends to make formulationsfoam in partially flooded jet machines.- The jet action may damage the surfaceofcertain types of fabrics.

Jet dyeing machinery evolved steadilyafter invention of the machine in 1961.The first

machines were partially flooded.Fully flooded machines keep the fabriccompletely

submerged during the dyecycle. This prevents the formation oflongitudinal creases which

occur when thefabric is lifted from the bath in a partiallyflooded machine. Fully flooding themachine also prevents formation of foam. The so-called soft Row machines use the sameprinciple of a transport tube as a jet machine where the fabric is transported in a stream of dye

liquor. However, transportof the fabric in soft flow jet machines is assisted by a driven lifter

reel. These machines either eliminate the high velocity jet or use a jet having lower velocity

than that used on conventional jet dye machines. The soft flow machines are more gentle on

the fabric than conventional.


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Jigs

A jig consists of a trough for the dye or chemical formulation.The fabric from a roll on one

side of the machine is run through the formulation in the trough and wound on a roll on the

opposite side of the jig. When the second roll is full, the drive is reversed, and the fabric istransfered through the formulation back to the first roll. Live steam injected into the bottom

ofthe trough through a perforated pipe across the width of the jig heats the formulation.

Closed coils containing high pressure steam can also be used to heat a jig. Live steam heats

the formulation faster than closed coils but dilutes the formulation. Automatic devices control

temperature and reverse the direction of the fabric when required on modern jigs.

A dye jig is normally used for dyeing at pressure of one atmosphere although pressurized,

high temperature jigs have been made. Covering the top of a jig minimizes heat loss to the

atmosphere, keeps the temperature uniform on all parts of the fabric and minimizes exposure

of the formulation to air. Minimizing exposure to air is most important when using sulfur

and vat dyes since these dyes can be oxidized by atmospheric oxygen.Maximum batch size

on a jig may be up to several thousand meters of fabric. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise

tension on the fabric and are, therefore, more suit able for woven than for knit fabrics. Since

the fabric is handled in open width, a jig is very suitable for fabrics which crease if dyed in

rope form.

Package Dyeing

The term package dyeing usually refers to dyeing of yarn which has been wound on

perforated cores so that dye liquor can be forced through the package. Packages may be

tubes, cheeses or cones. Cores for dye packages may be rigid stainless steel, plastic or paper.

Plastic and papertypes are normally intended to be used only once while stainless steel cores

can be reused indefinitely. Plastic and paper cores as well as stainless steel springs are used

as compressible cores. These compressible cores allow more packages to be forced into the


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dye vessel and increase the capacity of the machine. the yarn packages are placed on

perforated spindles on a frame which fits into a pressure vessel where dyeing takes place. The

dye vessel is cylindrical and has domed ends. The top cover, which must be removed for

loading and unloading, is secured during dyeing by bolts or a sliding ring which can be

quickly locked. Most package dyeing machines are capable of dyeing temperatures up to135C. The number of packages may vary from as few as one in a laboratory machine to

several hundred in a large production machine.

The dye formulation is pumped through the perforations in the spindles and package cores

into the yarn. The flow of liquid can be either from inside-to-outside of the package oroutside-in. Periodic reversal of the direction of flow improves uniformity of dyeing. A

package dye machine has an expansion tank mounted alongside the dye vessel. The

expansion tank accomodates theincreased volume of dyebath resulting from thermal

expansion when the bath is heated. Chemical and dye adds are made to the vessel through the

expansion tank. A heat exchanger using high pressure steam as the heat source heats the dye

liquor in a package dye machine. The steam coils for heating the liquor are also used as

cooling coils after the dye cycle is completed. Liquor ratio in a package dye machine is

typically about 1O:l when the machine is fully loaded. Use of lower liquor ratio can save

water, energy and chemicals. The liquor ratio can be lowered by only partially flooding themachine. If the liquor covers all of the packages but does not fill the top dome of the

machine, the liquor ratio is only slightly lower than it is in a fully flooded machine. Ifonly

the base of the carrier is covered with dye solution, the liquor ratio may be as low as 4: 1.

However, the direction of liquor flow can only be inside-out using this arrangement. High

quality dyeings may be more difficult to achieve at very low liquor ratio in package dye

machines.Raw stock, tow and other materials can be dyed using the same principles as

package dyeing. A basket (cage) is nor-mally used to hold these materials during the dyeing.


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Beam Dyeing

The principles of beam dyeing are essentially identical to those of package dyeing. Either

yarn or fabric can be beam dyed. The fabric or yarn is wound on a perforated beam. A beam

machine can be designed to hold a single beam or multiple beams in a batch. Beam dyeing of

warps is practical in producing patterned fabrics where the warp yarn will be one color andthe filling will be another color.

Paddle Machines And Rotary Drums

Paddle machines and rotary drum machines can be used to dye textiles in many forms, but

these two methods are used mostly to dye garments. Steam injection directly into the dyebath

heats both of these types of machines.The paddle circulates the bath and garments around a

perforated central island. Chemicals, water and steam for heat are added inside the perforated

central island.

The overhead paddle machine is simply a vat with a paddle having blades the full widthof the

machine. The blades dip a few centimcters into thevattostir the bath and push thegarments

down, keeping them submerged in thedye liquor. A rotary drum machine is cylindrical vessel


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slightly larger than its internal perforated drum which holds the material to be dyed. The

perforated drum is divided into several chambers each having its own door through which it

can be loaded and unloaded. Rotary drum machines are commonly used to dye hosiery.

TumblersTumblers are very similar in principle to rotarydrum machines except that they are usually

larger. They also resemble large commercial drycleaning machines. Tumblers have a

perforated drum which rotates inside a larger vat which contains the dye or chemical

formulation. The drumcan be divided into compartments to assist in agitating the garments,

or baffles around the periphery of the drum serve to the garments in the dye formulation.

These machines extract some of the water by centrifugal action after completion of the

dyeing. Tumblers are used for (prewashing) garments dyed with indigo. Modern machines of

this type are usually equipped with automatic controls and some are designed to tilt forward

to provide for easy loading and unloading of batchesof garments.

PARAMETER CONTROL IN BATCH DYEING


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YARN DYEING

Winding density should be even. Package density is checked before loading the package.

First take circumference, then measure height and deduct the center portion of cone that is

hollow. Then weigh it so you will get the density. For cotton the package density is taken as

0.3 gram/cc.

Shape of the Cheese :

Shape and size of the cheese should be same. Prior to process checking is done visually.

Checking the angle of the winding:

Angel should be 30-45 degree. As the angle increases the density decreases.

Perforation of the spindles:

Perforation of the spindles prior to mounting the spindle. It is visually assessed.

Standard: No perforation mark.

Necessary action : Wound butter paper or non woven textile. Polycarbide,and polyethylene

spindles are only wound. Spring type are not wound..

MLR:

MLR for conventional machine is 1:10. Fongs has reduced the MLR to 1:4.

Standard: MLR varies from 1:6 to 1:12 and necessary action is adjusting the MLR as per

therequirement.

Pump pressure:

Modern machine gives upto 6-7 Psi and old machines used to give 4psi.

Take necessary action for smooth reversal flow of the liquor.

Recipe Color and chemical:

Prior to dyeing ensure confirmatory of standard recipe.


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Color Dissolution:

Prior to dyeing check color dissolution. Method of checking is spotting on filter paper.

Standard: Complete dissolution of color, if partly color is getting dissolved then strain thesolutionprior to dyeing.

pH:

Check with pH paper or pH meter.

Standard: No standard it varies as per the dye class.

Necessary action: By addition of acid or alkali.

Temperature:

Check with thermometer and adjust steam supply.

Standard: No standard, it varies as per the class of dye.

Time:

During process, the method of checking is dyeing record.

Entrap air:

Entrapped air is checked prior to built up of the pressure. Method is by checking air vent

valve.

Standard: No entrap air and ensure complete air removal.

Steam leakages:

During process visual checking is done for no leakage in the pump and circulating valve.

Necessary action: Trap or plug all leakages.

Variation in Package density during process:


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In case of cotton carry out pretreatment process with low alkali. In case of polyester

texturised yarn dueto boiling treatment yarn shrinks, to avoid that either hold the batch at low

temperature for longer timei.e 45-60min or adjusting density during winding i.e Wind at

lower density so the density increases orbecome optimum after shrinking.

PARAMETER CONTROL IN BEAM DYEING MACHINES

Parameters for fabric preparation:

Uniform Whiteness, Degree of heat setting is checked by below method

Method of testing: Iodine absorbency test. Oil free fabric is necessary.

Necessary action: Uneven white fabric is taken for heat setting. Reheatset at higher

temperature thenprevious.

Density of Fabric:

Particularly for Beam dyeing machine optimum density is 0.6gm/cc. (Density calculation as

per packagedyeing )

Necessary action: To conform to uniform winding of fabric on a beam.

Minimum 8 to 10 layer of wrapper cloth is the standard. If Polyester is more, than more

layers ofwrapper cloth must be wound. Ensure proper length of wrapper cloth according to

the width of thefabric to avoid perforation marks.

Overlap on beam:

During batching this precaution is to be taken that the Blend content or width of the selvedgeshould besame.

Necessary action: Maintaining desired overlap.

Air Entrap:

Before taking the pressure in the beam, entrapped air is removed. Method of checking is

overflow valve.


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Necessary action: Circulating the liquor for 5-10 minutes in both the direction.

Flow Reversal:

Standard: During the flow reversal the pressure should not be less than (forward pressure of 4Psi) Ifpressure is less then it then check the pump. Optimize the number of wrapper layers.

Check amount ofwater in the beam machine, and ensure complete air removal.

MLR:

Beam dyeing MLR is 1:10 to 1:12.

NECESSARY ACTION: Take optimum liquor ratio.

Vessel Pressure:During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on beam dyeing should be35-40psi.

JET DYEING MACHINE:

MLRs of Various Jet based Machines:

Old Jet 1:8

Rapid Jet 1:6

Super Rapid Jet 1:4-1:5Soft flow 1:1-1:1.5

Over flow 1:4-1:5

Air Flow 1:1

Jet Pressure:

Jet pressure: 15-20 psi. Adjust jet pressure according to the quality.In case of soft flow

dyeing machine pressure is very low from 3psi to 10psi. Because in this machinesfabric is

moved mechanically and jets are used only to penetrate the dye liquor in fibres.

Necessary action: Adjusting the jet pressure according to the quality.

Recipe:


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No standard for recipe it is as per the quality of fabric.

pH:

During dyeing it is checked by pH meter or pH paper, 4.5-5.5 is the standard.

Necessary action: Adjust the concentration of acid buffer.

Temperature:

Standard: The standard is set during dyeing as per the requirement with the help of

thermometer.

Necessary action: Ensure uniform heating rate as per the dyeing program. Maintain uniformsteampressure, and conform effective working of thermostat.

Dyeing time:

Dyeing time is kept as per the previous records in record book. Ensure desired holding time

for thedyeing. Rapid jet takes 1 hour, old jet and beam take 2.5 hours, soft flow also takes 2-

2.5 hours for completion of dyeing.

Vessel Pressure:

During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on jet should be 25psi, for soft flow it should be 20-25

psi. Soensure optimum pressure.

JIGGER DYEING MACHINE:

Fabric preparation:

Points to check: Absorbency, whiteness, ph of core fabric, creases of the fabric and the

selvedges.

Standard: Uniform whiteness, Ph must be neutral, and fabric should be crease free.


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Necessary action: Give two acetic acid or formic acid wash. If the absorbency is not proper

thenrescouring is to be done. If uniform whiteness is not there then segregate the fabric. If

creases are therethen pass through the stenter to remove the creases.

Batching:

Standard : Knife cut batching (very even batching). If batching is not even, then segregate the

fabric ordry the fabric on the stenter. During batching another precaution is that the

expanders of the jigger mustwork properly.

Batch Size:

Indian machines are having batching capacity in kg but internationally, diameter of the batch

is specified.

Measurement of the yardages of the fabric:

Standard: It is the maximum permissible limit.

Maximum Limit:

Do not permit to overload the fabric. Because the fabric may get overlapped.

MLR:

Jigger dyeing machine is 1:1 to 1:1.5. During colouration 1:1.5, during soaping 1:2, during

soaping for

overflow washing it is 1:5. Maintain constant water level for over flow washing. Prevent

water and steamleakages.

Quality of the end cloth fabric:

Nonabsorbent like nylon, polyester, linen etc. Length and width of the end cloth needs to be

checked.

Crease free fabric:

Creases are found near the selvedges. So it has to be removed immediately. Creases are

formed inbetween the fabric due to the improper working of expanders.


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Recipe:

Calculated according to the weight of the fabric and the quality of the fabric.

Colour Preparation:

Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter paper by spotting. Ensuring

properdissolution of the colour. Strain the colour through bolting cloth prior to dyeing. This

parameter is forconventional jigger machine.

Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give sufficient time for dissolution.

Colour and Chemical Addition:

Importantly colour and chemically addition should be in even installments and not in odd

installments.

Use of splash board should be done during addition of any chemical to the jigger dyeing

machine. Properstirring of the solution in the trough after every addition. All solid chemicals

must be added by predissolving.

Concentration of Chemicals:

During dyeing optimum amount of chemicals should be used and there is no standard for it.

Temperature:

During dyeing with the help of the thermometer check the temperature and the standard

oftemperature should be as per the class of the dye. Regulate the heat supply. Heat the

solution during theend of the turn and not in between when an endis running.

pH:

Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum dose of alkali and acids in

the trough.

Addition of colours for the correction of the shade:

Ensure that addition must be done in the jigger by draining half quantity of trough solution.

The reasonis that the new dye requirement to set the shade right will be less as the dye


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initially present hasreduced to half the quantity plus in addition there will be shift in

equilibrium and hence dyeing will againstart and lead to shade correction.

After treatment:

In case of after treatment in sulphur dyeing i.e. after oxidation Sodium acetate and pine oil

treatment isgiven to avoid bronziness and tendering. In case of Disperse dye Reduction

Clearing is given. In case ofDirect dye dye-fixing treatment is given.

PARAMETERS CONTROL FOR SEMI-CONTINUOUS ANDCONTINUOUS METHODS:

Fabric Preparation:

Check even absorbency and fabric should be crease free. For semi continuous the width of

fabric is more important as it is rolled. Proper stitching of fabric is required. Heavy stitches

should not be there. Fabric should be uniform and even in absorbency. Uneven width pieces

must be segregated..

Nip Pressure:

In nip pressure, the padding roll and squeezing roll are to be checked.

Method: Roller pressure is measured by taking % expression. Hardness of the roller is

checked bydegree shore meter or by carbon expression test. Polishing of the soft roller is

done to adjust thepressure. Proper working of hydraulic and pneumatic pressing device is

checked for.

Threading of the fabrics:

Threading must be checked during drying, padding and soaping.

Expanders:

During dyeing, expanders are to be stretched. Proper working of ball bearing should be

checked for proper and regular greasing and oiling should be done for proper working.


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Guide Rollers:

During dyeing, ensure smooth working of guide rollers.

Colour Preparation:

Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter paper by spotting. Ensuring

properdissolution of the colour. Strain the colour through bolting cloth prior to dyeing. This

parameter is forconventional jigger machine. Use proper dissolution method in case of vat

and sulphur, give sufficient time for dissolution.

pH:

Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum dose of alkali and acids inthe trough.

Speed:

Speed is measured with dial speed meter. Maintain optimum speed for dyeing.

Dwell Time:

During dyeing, the dwell time is checked with the stop watch. Adjust the speed to getuniform dwelltime.

Temperature of drying chamber:

Ensure slow and uniform drying to avoid migration of the colour.

Flow of feeding liquor:

Flow of feeding liquor has to be adjusted with the flow meter. Adjust the flow such that theliquor shouldpass throughout the width and length of the fabric.

Batching for semicontineous Process:

Avoid over batching. Batch must be revolving to avoid the seepage. For continuous dyeing

range thefabric must be cooled before batching.

Covering batching:


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For pad batch and semi continuous method the fabric is to be isolated from the

departmentalatmosphere.

Necessary action: Wrap the batches with polyethylene sheets to avoid localized drying.

DIFFERENT DYIENG METHODS

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