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he Original CZ Forum GENERAL CZ HOME GUNSMITHING (Moderators: mbott,jwc007) CZ-75 Trigger job lots of pics

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KonigsTigerII

Posts: 5

CZ-75 Trigger job lots of pics

on: December 18, 2006, 12:57:05 AM

Hello, kinda new to the forum, usually on sksboards.com, but I own a SP-01,CZ-85B and a CZ-52, and I would like to share some info on an easy trigger

job, enjoy!

This is my first detailed how to, so if anything is missing, confusing, etc let me

know. Also this is do at your own risk, and remember to go slow and take off

little bit at a time. Its much easier to remove material than to add it. I

recommend reading thru the whole thing before attempting. While taking the

pistol apart, it is a very good idea to take note of the postion of the parts and

how they work together.

Also note CZ triggers usually need to break in (around 500 rounds) and the

trigger will improve during break in, if this is not enough for you, then this

may be of help to you.

This was done useing a CZ-75B SP-01, models with a decocker will be different

than this one with a manual safety. I plan on doing this to a decocker model,

but I don't have one...yet.

The tools I used are:

picks (like dental picks)

Punch

phillips screw driver

sand paper (400 grit I found works well)

and a paded vise

First off you need to unload and field strip your pistol

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then pull it out




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The slide will now pull off towards the front, removing the barrel and spring is

not required for a trigger job

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

next remove the grips using a phillips screw driver




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remove the mainspring plug pin (under pressure, push the plug against a table

or simlar surface while doing this)




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then carfully take out the magazine break like so lifting up and pulling forward:

Then release the mainspring plug




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Pull out the plug and mainspring

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next lift up on the sear spring




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while lifting up the spring pull out the safety (helps if its on safe to give more

to grab onto) The CZ-85B you have to pull out both sides of the safety

lift out the trigger assembly




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Remove the sear pin




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taken apart, be careful of the two small springs in it (sear spring and firing pin

block lever spring)

------------------------------------------------------------------

Next sanding on the sear. I use 400 grit paper and found it to be effective,while sanding I found putting the paper on a flat surface and carfully taking

the sear across it the best way do sand it down, though other ways such as

usin a vise ma also work. Also do not round an corners off!




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The part to sand, this is after and it gives good trigger pull and weight. Do a

little bit at a time to be safe, an note hammer engagement. When the trigger

is pulled in single action, if the hammer moves back before releasing this is

positive engagement (safest), if it doesn't move its neutral, and if it moves

forward, negative (most unsafe). My goal is to have minimal postive

engagement, though neutral may be desirable for a target oriented pistol)

Now reassembly of the trigger assembly (basically reverse order)




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Leave firing pin safety lever spring like this for reassembly...

Then while carfully pushing lever towards its side move spring to its correct

position

Reassembled




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next is to remove hammer pin retaining peg

Push up on it from here




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then pull out from the top using tweezers

Push out the hammer pin




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pull the hammer assembly out of the top

Shows the surfaces to be smoothed, also don't round any edges. I would

recommend keeping the angles the same here too, can be angled backwards

but I recommend against it, as it may cause negative engagement




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----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Reassembly is just reversed, but with a few helpful tips

Lift this spring when putting safety back in




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then push back the safety detent plunger back far as you can, while pushing

safety back in.

Then reversed order on the main spring and grips and slide.

The mainspring also may be changed too as well to help with trigger pull,

especially with double action. I used a Cz-52 spring since I have extras andfound them to be reliable, you can get the same effect as cutting coils off, but

that is un reversable and you may make it too light, you can get lighter

s rin s here:




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www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/EAANF.html

Then as usual function test the pistol and safety.

I hope this helps make your CZ trigger much better. I have tried my best to

make it clear and concise, but let me know if you run into any snags while

trying this.

-Sterling

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Walt-Sherrill

Guest


Reply #1 on: December 18, 2006,

06:40:19 AM

Very nicely done.

Just add some more cavaets about taking off too much metal (by sanding) can

leave you with some unexpected results.

I've moved a copy of this, which will be blocked from further responses or

changes (at least for now), to the CZ Pistols FAQ area.

If adjustments are needed for the FAQ version, let me know, and I'll make

them for you, or open it up so you can do it in that area, too.

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Virginia Jake

Sr. Member

Posts: 394



06:53:57 AM

You have removed some of the mystery out of this thorny subject!

Yours,

Bob Troxell.

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StuartHero Member

Posts: 6174

CZ-75 Trigger job lots of pics Reply #3 on: December 18, 2006,

09:43:39 AM

Nicely done..great explanation, picture and diagrams..

thanks for taking the time to post..

just a note..when working on your hammer hooks..be sure to keep your

cutting square and in parallel..

the CZ factory hammers have very deep hooks and have a negative angle,

which is why the hammers cam when the trigger is pulled.

couple of other good areas to polish to help smooth things out is the FP safety

plunger where it enters the slide..and the lever where it contacts the FP

plunger...

Again..I want to say..great work sir..thank you..

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briang2ad

Hero Member

Posts: 1592



10:33:17 AM

1) I would assume that the TOP of the 'hooks' give the most trouble for DA

pull? WHERE exactly do you smooth for this, and HOW? (Can you just use a

dremel with felt?)

2) Exactly how do you smooth the SA hooks which engage the sear? I

thought you needed an "India" stone and a special jig.




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Here is a minor point. Folk may want to take the mag brake out a bit

differently. If you use a hex nut or the corner of a work bench, you can grab

the pistol grip and push the trigger spring retainer IN a little, slide the

retaining pin out at least 3/4 of the way, and lift the mag break out without

bending it.

Thanks - nice pics!

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KonigsTigerII

Posts: 5

CZ-75 Trigger job lots of pics Reply #5 on: December 18, 2006,

08:46:51 PM

Thanks,

I'm not sure about ? number 1, I don't work on the double action of them as I

find it to be good already.I think i know what you're talking about but I'm not

sure.

for 2 i just use 400 grit paper and something to hold the paper flat and

striaght in, such as a file and put he hammer in a vise and carfull smoothen it

out.

Yeah taking it out this way i found to be the easiest since sometimes the mag

break pin can be stubborn to get out, but yes that is a way to if you don't want

to bend the mag break.

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briang2ad

Hero Member

Posts: 1592



09:11:42 PM

So... do any of the experts here know if you can take 600 grit paper to the

TOP of the hooks to smooth tou the DA pull?

Also. I assume that with something to hold the 400-600 gritt paper flat, you

could shorten the hammer hooks?

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KonigsTigerII

Posts: 5



10:20:42 PM

now i think about it, You could smooth down the tops it, I don't see how it

would have any negative effects. You would also want to strip the pistol down

and find the moving sufaces for da pull and smoothen those down as well. I

believe if you didn't change any angles, edges or take too much off, then you

would be ok.

You could shorten the hooks, but I think it would make it worse? It would

cause you to have more over travel and the sear and hammer would be resting

against each other on less surface area possibly making it more gritty or

something like that, The only benifit is it would make the travel to release the

hammer less. Also to take into consideration is that there would be less for the

sear to grab, and if you take too much off you would have a pistol that is DAO,

and/or may make it unsafe.

Not saying that you can't do it but If you do becareful and always when

experimenting, expect to buy a new part incase you go too far. And as a rule

of thumb, always modify the cheapest part.

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Posts: 4



01:53:02 PM

Thank's !!!

Very nice job.




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Ciao from north Italy

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Posts: 4



02:19:39 AM

Hi KonigsTigerII

Very nice job .

Can you disassemble the trigger

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briang2ad

Hero Member

Posts: 1592



07:38:05 AM

So, does anyone know how to slicken a DA pull? I have never really seen it on

any of the pistol FAQs or any other lost - not specifically on DA - just general

instructions on 'smooth everything, etc.' Thanks.

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Posts: 4



02:05:53 PM

Ok, no problem

Sorry for the the question.

Bye.

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Walt-Sherrill

Guest



06:12:23 PM

To smooth up the double-action trigger, you'd just polish up all of the internal

surfaces, sides of trigger bar, sides of the hammer, anyplace where metal rubs

metal.

Jim Miossi has suggested using GUN BUTTER as an intermediate step. He also

polishes other spots, like the bar upon which the mainspring rides, etc.

A slightly lighter hammer (main) spring won't make it smoother, but will make

it SEEM smoother.

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Tommy Tran

Posts: 25


Reply #13 on: January 18, 2007,

12:20:03 AM

I just completed my trigger job tonight and these directions were a great

help... Thought it would have took me longer but only took about 2.5hours

taking my time...

I polished some extra parts to see if I could improve the overall action of the

gun too.

I recut the sear and hammer hooks starting with 500grit then 1000 grit then a

reflective 1200 grit!!! I recut the angles so there is basically very very little to

no camming of the hammer now in SA, im sitting here dry firing to get the

surfaces to mate a little more before tomorrows steel night at the local




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range...

For smoothing the DA end of things I polished both sides the hammer where it

sits in the frame, the hammer strut that the main spring rides on, installed a

lighter main spring, polished the tops of the "ears" of the trigger bar... Its

ALOT smoother and lighter than stock.

Peace

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briang2ad

Hero Member

Posts: 1592


Reply #14 on: January 21, 2007,

03:37:54 PM

Tommy: Exaclty how did you polish the 'ears' of the trigger bar? Did you take

the trigger bar/trigger assembly out of the weapon?

Also, if you have no gun butter before the meet, Remoil did MUCH for my DA

trigger.

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