3 Major Types Of Denim Jeans

Dry/Raw denim

Raw denim is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Over time, denim will generally fade, which is often considered desirable. During the process of wear, it is typical to see fading on areas that generally receive the most stress, which includes the upper thighs (whiskers), the ankles (stacks) and behind the knees (honey combs).

After being crafted into an article of clothing, most denim is washed to make it softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage, which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to achieve a worn look.

Much of the appeal of factory distressed denim is that it looks similar to dry denim that has, with time, faded. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of his or her daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months, though it is not a necessity for fading.

Love it or hate it, raw denim is dyed denim fabric that has not been washed, treated with finishing chemicals or distressed in any manner. Raw or dry denim is initially dark in color and stiff to the touch, but eventually softens and fades with wear.

Selvage denim

Selvage denim forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the out-seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn.

The word "selvage" comes from the phrase "self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric. As applied to denim, it means that which is made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge cannot fray like denim made on a projectile loom that has separate wefts, which leave an open edge that must be stitched. This advantage is only realized on one edge of the fabric, however, as the fabric has to be cut to shape and anywhere it is cut the self-edge is lost.

Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way to the selvedge edge. When the cuff is turned up, the two selvedge edges (where the denim is sewn together) can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stitched

with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and (most commonly) red. Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics.

Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo dye is available in some denim labels. Though they are supposed to have the same chemical makeup, there are more impurities in the natural indigo dye. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.

In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950s, American denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60 inches or wider). Synthetic dying techniques along with post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.

Selvage denim is one of the more expensive denims because of its durability, and self-edge that will never fray.

Stretch denimStretch denim usually incorporates an elastic component (such as elastane) into the fabric to allow a degree of give in garments. Only a small percentage is required within the fabric (approx 3%) to allow a significant stretch capacity of around 15%.

Stretch denim is a wildly popular innovation welcomed by people of all body types. No longer are you a slave to your blue jeans. The stretchable character of stretch denim gives with the body rather than restricting movement. This material includes a small percentage of Spandex woven into the cotton fibers and most closely resembles true denim than any other blend.

Color denimDenim fabric dyeing is divided into two categories; indigo dyeing and sulphur dyeing. Indigo dyeing produces traditional blue colors or shades similar to blue colors. Sulfur dyeing (also called color denim) is used to create specialty black colors and other colors like pink, grey, rust, mustard, green, and red.

Ring Denim

Ring spinning is the original method to produce denim fabric. In the early 1970s, denim manufacturers abandoned complex ring spinning in favor of the less expensive open-end spinning technique. With the surge in popularity of vintage-look blue jeans, manufacturers have reintroduced ring-denim manufacturing. Ring denim gets its appeal, in part, from the fabric's surface irregularities or slubs formed during manufacturing.

Bull Denim

Bull denim is undyed, cotton twill fabric that is soft to the touch, but heavier, more durable and longer lasting than traditional denim. The fabric is similar to canvas without the stiffness associated with thicker denim-like fabrics. In spite of its weight, bull denim takes dye easily and with even results. This denim is suitable for pants, shorts, slipcovers, tote bags and hats.

Silk Denim

Silk takes denim from casual wear into the boardroom and beyond. Silk is a popular fabric favored for its natural beauty, softness and durability. The sturdy and supple nature of silk is the perfect partner for rugged denim. The strength of fine silk threads allows them to be easily woven into lightweight denim fabrics. Silk denim is a fashionable alternative to everyday jeans and jackets.

Flat-Finish Denim

Flat finishing is a process performed at the mill to impart denim with an evenly distributed wash-down color and smooth surface. Manufacturers use the mercerization and calendering processes to produce a flat denim finish. Mercerization swells the cotton fibers, and the rollers of the calender machine flatten the denim surface. The combination process also creates the trademark sheen or polish of certain denim fabrics.

Organic Denim

Premium organic denim is manufactured with 100 percent organic cotton. Organic denim, as with other organic textiles, is regulated by the Organic Trade Association under strict guidelines in regard to sustainable growing conditions, use of natural pesticides, non-toxic fiber processing, colorants and fabric treatments. Due to these safeguards, products made from organic denim tend to be more expensive than ordinary denim.

HISTORY OF DENIM

1. What Is Denim?o Denim is made from tightly woven fabric that usually comes from cotton warp

yarn and white cotton filling yarn. The filling yarns are stretched across the width of the fabric and interlaced at 90-degree angles with warp yarns, which are also stretched the length of the fabric. This creates an interwoven pattern of diagonal lines called “twill weave.” There are two kinds of twill weaves: left hand twill, which is softer and runs diagonally from right to left, and right hand twill, which runs diagonally from left to right and is flatter and smoother.

Modern Denim

o Although denim fabric was originally made from only cotton, today it also includes polyamide, lycra, polypropylene, polyester or nylon for stretch and

durability. The fabric is also sometimes given special coatings or rubberized effects to create a different appearance. Some denim fabrics are also made lighter by adding linen, hemp or wool.

Why It Is Usually Blue

o Denim is usually dyed the color blue just like the original versions of jeans, which were created for workmen. Those jeans were traditionally dyed with indigo, which was known as the most significant natural dye and associated with practical fabrics and work clothing. New colors were introduced to denim fabrics in the 19th century when synthetic dyes were created.

Denim Treatments

o Denim fabric is treated in a variety of ways to give it different aesthetics. For instance, manufacturers sometimes repeatedly pre-wash the fabric to make it softer, while stoned-washed denim originally involved pumice stones to give the fabric a more natural appearance. Today, the look of stone-washed denim is usually accomplished with ceramic balls, enzymes and sand. In addition, sand-blasted denim is sprayed with sand or chemicals to give it a worn look. Vintage or dirty denim fabrics are created with patterns, such as brown filler yarns that are added to the weaving.

The First Denim Jeans

o The first denim jeans are credited to Levi Strauss, a German immigrant who went to California in 1853 and sold rough canvas for tents and wagon covers during the Gold Rush. When clients told him they needed pants that were strong enough to last in the mines, Strauss began making jeans from the rough canvas, switching to denim when miners complained of chafing. However, the first “blue jeans” weren't created until 1873, when Strauss joined forces with a tailor from Nevada named David Jacobs and co-patented the idea of using rivets to make the jeans stronger.

Where It Gets Its Name

o A common theory about the origin of the word “denim” is that the fabric was originally created in the Middle Ages in Nîmes, France, under the name “serge de Nîmes”. The name was later shortened to “denim” when it reached the U.S. in the 1800s.

How to Wash Selvedge Denim1.o 1

Place the selvedge denim in your home washing machine. Set the machine on a "delicate" cycle and the water temperature to "cold."

o 2

Add 1/3 cup of color-safe detergent to the water if the denim contains dirt and debris. Using too much detergent can fade the denim's color.

o 3

Remove the denim from the washing machine when the cycle is complete. Hang the denim on a clothesline or drying rack, or place the denim on a flat surface in a well-ventilated area. Do not use your clothes dryer --- the heat can change the denim's color.

Best  Denim Brands Worldwide – Europe/ Americas/Asia

Denim Brand Denim Brand Denim Brand

45rpm Edwin Mavi Jeans

1921 Jeans Evisu Miss Sixty

575 Denim Genetic Denim Naked & Famous

7 for all Mankind Giorgio Armani Nudie

Acne Jeans Hudson Jeans Paige Premium

AG Jeans Iron Heart Paper Denim

Antik Denim J Brand PRPS

Cheap Monday Joe’s Jeans Rag & Bone

Citizens of Humanity

Juicy Courture Red Monkey

Current/Elliot Kasil Rock & Republic

Del Forte Denim Ksubi Samurai

Diesel  LA Denim Atelier

Serfontaine

dvb – Denim Lee Jeans Siwy Denim

Earl Jeans Levi’s Sugarcane

Earnest Sewn Loomstate True Religion

G Star    

William Rast    Wrangler

Japanese Denim Brands

1. 45rpm : 45rpm is very cautious about the fabrics it uses and has an exclusive deal with its mill, ensuring one-of-a-kind materials. The  company’s denims are made from both Zimbabwe cotton and Suvin hybrid cotton,

2. Edwin : Founded in 1969 by Edwin Company mainly focused on jeans manufacture. Brad Pitt is an official  spokesperson and model  for the brand, and appears in many of its advertisements.

3. Evisu : Founded in 1991 by Hidehiko Yamane. Yamane-san was trained as a tailor but his love for vintage denimn and his disappointment with the mass-produced modern versions led him firstly to business of vintage clothing import business and later to start putting together the elements required to reproduce vintage-style jeans. The initial production was 14 pairs of jeans a day !

4. Iron Heart : The denim is made in Japan out of the highest quality, long fibre cotton. These long fibres allow the individual cotton threads to be spun less tightly than is normal. The result is a surprisingly soft feel to this ultra-heavy denim.

5. PRPS : Made from Zimbabwe Organic Cotton, the denim dream of the founder of Akademics and ex-Nike designer, PRPS defines perfection in today’s over saturated denim market.

6. Samurai : Founded in 1997,their collection exists of various models of unwashed denim. All Samurai jeans,uses 100% pure indigo with no fillers, and use  the maximum amount of indigo that the yarn can hold. Samurai  has also maximized the tension of the weave, so that after washing, the denim actually becomes even more stiff and the weave even tighter

7. Sugarcane : Sugar Cane ’ denim by traditional Japanese dyeing techniques by hand and not by machine. The first model ‘ Sugar Cane Awa ’ is made of sugar cane denim dyed by Awa indigo. Sugar Cane were the first in the world to produce a selvage-denim fabric made from woven cotton yarns and sugar cane fibers. otton and sugar cane yarns are dyed completely by hand with 100% natural indigo.

 

Italian Denim Brands

1. Diesel : The world famous jeans brand. Needs no introduction ! .    Links : a) Financials  b) Buy Diesel Jeans

2. Armani Jeans :Armani Jeans is a bridge-line collection of denim-related clothing created in 1981 by Giorgio Armani. Unlike Armani’s lower-end collection Armani Exchange, Armani Jeans is mainly sold in department stores instead of freestanding stores.

3. Miss Sixty :

 

Swedish Denim Brands

1. Acne : A ton of variety in mens’ fits, and repeat winner of ‘Designer of the Year’ by Swedish Elle.

2. Cheap Monday : Founded in 2000 by Örjan Andersson, originally as a  second hand clothing store, in a suburb of Stockholm. The name of the brand originates from the fact that the original store was only open on Sunday.Being cheaper than other brands, and with tons of crazy prints and colored washes, it is liked by high school students a lot. Link.

3. Nudie : Men’s Jeans made from the best Italian, Turkish, American, and Japanese qualities using the best techniques. How they are made?

 

Netherland (Dutch) Denim Brands

1. G-Star : G-Star offers a well-balanced range of jeans in various designs, the right range of fittings and attractive washings. Products made for denim connoisseurs by denim connoisseurs.

 

US Denim Brands (L.A denim brands included)

1. AG Adriano Goldschmied : Starting out as a small boutique line in 2000, AG is a brand that is centered on recreating vintage denim washes.AG continues to evolve its “AG-ed Vintage” collection by introducing new fits, washes and fabrications. For Spring 2010, the brand will launch a Khaki Program, where the “AG-ed” 3-D whiskering technique is applied.    Links :  a)Some details

2. Paige Premium Denim : Paige Premium Denim, LLC was founded in 2004 by fit model Paige Adams-Geller on the principle that you don’t have to be a size zero to look great and feel great in a pair of designer jeans. She was the body behind the brands like 7 For All Mankind, Lucky Brand, Citizens of Humanity, Guess and  used her expertise and unique values to create the “perfect fitting jean.”

3. 7 for all Mankind : Owned by VF Corp. since 2007 ,7 For All Mankind was the first company to truly bring premium denim to scale in 2000.7 For All Mankind’s premium jeans literally exploded onto the scene, quickly earning critical acclaim and an immediate following for its innovative use of fits, fabrics, and finishes in denim.Hollywood celebrities like  Angelina Jolie, Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Garner, Liv Tryler and Ben Affleck endorsed the ‘Sevens’.  Links :a)VF acquires 7

4. Siwy Denim : Launched in Spring 2005 in downtown New York City, Siwy offers the ultimate denim collection: vintage-inspired, sexy, fashion-forward designs with perfected finish, detail, and fit. Each piece is finished with hand-crafted labels made out of vintage feedsack cloth.

5. Earnest Sewn :Earnest Sewn brings forth two concepts: 1) process innovation and 2) heritage. Everything from  "Twice Sewn" [stitching] process, to  specialized hand-sanding techniques, which are worked on by one expert artisan per pair, to  coffee-stained hang tags and individually wrapped craft paper set it apart from other labels.

6. Current/Elliot : Born as late as 2008 when Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, both stylists, met with friend Serge Azria, CurrentElliot seems to have gained fame rather

fast. They are reputed to have started the BoyFriend Denim trend which is been adorned by Hollywood celebrities like Katie Holmes , Victoria Beckham etc.

7. J Brand :J Brand was co-founded by denim manufacturer Jeff Rudes and former stylist Susie Crippen.The two set out to create classic and sophisticated jeans with the emphasis on fit.J Brand – women’s-  launched as an exclusive at Ron Herman’s Melrose jeans bar in the spring of 2005.The brand had immediate success, and J Brand’s introduction of their skinny straight leg made them the first American-made premium jeans to drive this trend. The also have  a maternity line — Mama J by J Brand.In fall 2008, J Brand introduced a Men’s line under the label, J Brand Denim Co.

Denim Brands In India

Indian denim market is on a high growth path with a rate of growth in the range of 8-12%. However, the market is dominated by the non-branded players who take away the major share of the denim market. The branded denim market is estimated to be  around $450-$500 million , and is dominated by some international labels though the local brands are also getting prominent.

1. Levi’s : Levi’s is the leader in the branded denim category with about 20-25% share of the market. Using various innovative strategies, Levi’s has strengthened its hold on the market. It started operating in India in 1994 and is present in over 250 cities.

2. Killer Jeans : Owned by the Kewal Kiran Clothing limited, the brand was introduced in 1989 and is one of the well known denim brands in India. The other brands by this company – Easies,  Lawman and Integritti are also well known menswear brands.

3. Spykar : Targetting the tastes of the youth of the country, uses its labs to bring out a large variety of designer denim jeans .The company launched aggressive campaigns in colleges, pubs and coffee shops as well as sponsored college events and fashion shows to target the right clients It is on a high growth trajectory and is currently reported to have a turnover of $45million+.

DENIM BRANDSA : Acne Jeans, AG Jeans, Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle, Antik, Alice and Olivia,

B: Bardot, Bettina Liano, Bebe, Big Star, Buffalo David Bitton, Blue Cult,

C: Cheap Monday, Citizens of Humanity, Current/Elliot, Chip and Pepper, Corleone,

D: Del Forte Denim, Diesel, dvb – Denim, Dolce and Gabbana, Denim for Immortality, Diesel, DKNY

E: Earl Jeans, Earnest Sewn, Edun, Ezra Fitch, Evisu, Ed Hardy, Energie

F: Fornarina, Frankie B, Flying Machine

G: G Star, Genetic Denim, Giorgio Armani, Goldsign, Grass,

H: Hudson Jeans, Habitual

I: Iron Heart

J: Joe's Jeans, Juicy Couture, Joie, James Jeans, Just Cavalli, J Brand

K: Kasil, Ksubi, Killer Jeans ,

L: L.A.M.B, Lucky, Loomstate, Lee Cooper, Lee, Levi’s

M: Miss Sixty, Mavi Jeans

N: Notify, Nudies, Numero Uno, Naked & Famous

O: Oligo Tissew,

P: People's Liberation, People For Peace, Parasuco, Paige Premium Denim, Pringle, Pepe Jeans,PRPS, Paper Denim, Pace Jeans

Q:

R: Rock and Republic, Ranahan, Red Engine, Rogan, Reo Starr, Robin's Jeans, Roberto Cavalli, Ruf and Tuf, Replay Jeans , Red Monkey, Rag & Bone

S: Sacred Blue, Serfontaine, Stitch's, Salt Works, Sass & Bide, Spykar, Sugarcane, Siwy Denim, Samurai

T: True Religion, Taverniti SO, Tommy Hilfiger, Trigger Jeans

U: Union

V: Victoria Beckham for Rock and Republic, Versace

W: Wrangler, William Rast

X:

Y: Yanuk,YaYa, ,

Z: Z-Brand,

OTHERS: 7 For All Mankind, 575, 45rpm, 1921 Jeans

Acne Jeans

MAX RAWMax sits just below the waist and is cut slim through hip and thigh with a straight and narrow leg. It is characterized by flat rivets on the back pockets, narrow stitched seams, three needle stitching on inner leg and a hidden coin pocket. Classic styling with two front pockets, coin pocket, and two back patch pockets. Closes down the zippered fly front and secures at the waist band with an Acne embossed bachelor button. Acne logo is embossed onto the leatherette attached to the back of the waistband. This style comes in an over tinted raw denim. Tobacco colored outer seams.

Max Soft Raw

Max sits just below the waist and is cut slim through hip and thigh with a straight and narrow leg. It is characterized by flat rivets on the back pockets, narrow stitched seams, three needle stitching on inner leg and a hidden coin pocket. Classic styling with two front pockets, coin pocket, and two back patch pockets. Closes down the zippered fly front and secures at the waist band with an Acne embossed bachelor button. Acne logo is embossed onto the leatherette attached to the back of the waistband. Max Soft Raw has been quick-water-dipped, a process which gives the jean a softer, more comfortable feel without compromising the overall raw look.

ROC CASHNew favorite model Roc comes in a moderate tight and narrow fit with a straight leg and comfortable, normal waist. Classic styling including two front pockets, coin pocket, two back pockets, Acne embossed waistband button and button fly. Acne logo is embossed onto the leatherette attached to the back of the waistband.Cash is an unwashed and slightly stretchy denim. The denim is over-coated to create the most intense black color possible. Note: color will fade when washed. However, this is intentionally and actually adds to the look as the jeans gain a more personal wash.

NUDIE JEANSTight Long John

Long John sits low on the hip and is tight all the way through the hip and thigh with narrow leg opening. Most Long John's are made from power stretch denim.

High Kai

High Kai has a long rise and is tight from the hips down to the narrow leg opening. Most High Kai's are made from power stretch denim for ultimate comfort.

Tube Kelly

Tube Kelly sits low on the waist and is tight and narrow through the hip down to the thigh and knee. Compared to Tight Long John and High Kai the leg opening is slightly wider.

Tape Ted

Tape Ted has a long rise with low back yoke. Ted is slim from the hip and thighs and tapers down to a narrow leg opening.

Thin Finn

Thin Finn is a slimmed down version of the 1950's carrot shaped silhouettes. Finn has a normal rise and an extra low back yoke. It's slim from the hip and tapers down to a narrow leg opening.

Grim Tim

Grim Tim is a straight slim fit with normal rise. It's straight from hips through thigh and parallel from the knee to the leg opening.

Slim Jim

Back in the day Jim was considered slim, but is now one of the straight fit boys. Jim has a normal rise and is straight from the hip down to the leg opening. You can spot Slim Jim by its signature two-needle side seam.

Sharp Bengt

The regular/loose Sharp Bengt, formerly known as Big Bengt, has a normal rise and sits roomy across the hip and waist. The leg is straight and tapers down to a narrow leg opening.

Hank Rey

The straight and regular Hank Rey has a normal rise and a low back yoke. It's straight from the hip down to the knee where it tapers down slightly at the leg opening.

Average Joe

Average Joe is a straight and regular fit. Joe has a normal rise and remains straight from the thigh down to the leg opening.

NAKED AND FAMOUSSkinnyGuy – Deep Indigo Selvedge

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric: Super rigid, best fading jeans! Color: Deep Indigo

SlimGuy – Raised Selvedge

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric: Scratched then brushed to “raise” surface. Fluffy like wool, soft like cotton. Color: Indigo

SkinnyGuy – Nep Selvedge

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric: Old-School neppy denim. Color: Indigo

SkinnyGuy – Elephant Selvedge

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric: Heavy, Rigid, feels like an elephants skin! Color: Dark Indigo

SkinnyGuy – Natural Indigo Revival Selvedge

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric#: 501 Color: True Indigo

SkinnyGuy – Broken-Twill Selvedge

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric#: 105 Color: Indigo

SlimGuy – Cashmere Stretch

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric: Luxury blend. Brushed interior for extra comfort! Color: Indigo

SkinnyGuy – Gris Extensible

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric#: Stretch denim with excellent recovery. Color: Grey

SkinnyGuy – Red Stretch

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric#: Beautiful saturated red dyed warp. Color: Red

SkinnyGuy – Indigo Power-Stretch with Grey fill

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric#: 309 Color: Indigo (Grey weft)

SlimGuy – Slub Stretch

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Slubby and stretchy denim with great stretch recovery. Fabric: Slubby and stretchy denim with great stretch recovery. Color: Indigo

SkinnyGuy – Black Power Stretch

Fit Description: Regular rise, Skinny leg Fabric#: 301 Color: Black