DecodingDecoding

Maître Maître EscoffierEscoffier

By Alain V. De Coster BMCA, CECBy Alain V. De Coster BMCA, CEC

2012 ACF National Convention, Orlando FL2012 ACF National Convention, Orlando FL

Before we do, Before we do, let’s spend a moment in let’s spend a moment in

timetimewith ourwith our

Ancestors / Forefathers Ancestors / Forefathers and Authors shall we?and Authors shall we?

How far can we go back?How far can we go back?

How did we, culinarians, How did we, culinarians, get all the information and get all the information and knowledge needed to be knowledge needed to be

where we are today?where we are today?

Cookbook Cookbook MilestonesMilestones

100 - 400 CE De re Coquinaria100 - 400 CE De re Coquinaria

A 57 page manuscript attributed to Marcus A 57 page manuscript attributed to Marcus Gavius  Apicus. Gavius  Apicus.

The text  was copied by at least seven The text  was copied by at least seven different monks after 744 in Germany.different monks after 744 in Germany.

First printed in 1483. First printed in 1483. The manuscript had almost 500 heavily spiced The manuscript had almost 500 heavily spiced

constructs, a third of which were sauces. constructs, a third of which were sauces. Myth tells us that Gavius Apicus was a party Myth tells us that Gavius Apicus was a party

animal who spent a literal fortune on his animal who spent a literal fortune on his soirees. No matter who or how many soirees. No matter who or how many participated in writing the text it left a lasting participated in writing the text it left a lasting influence on European cuisine for the next influence on European cuisine for the next millennia.millennia.

520 - De Observatione Ciborum; On the 520 - De Observatione Ciborum; On the Observance of FoodsObservance of Foods

The Letters of Anthimus, a physician who spoke The Letters of Anthimus, a physician who spoke of Roman food tradition and preparation of Roman food tradition and preparation methods. methods.

The first Greek / Italian influence to French The first Greek / Italian influence to French cuisine, one of the last written examples of cuisine, one of the last written examples of spoken vulgar Latin before the Romance spoken vulgar Latin before the Romance languages appeared in Europe and it is languages appeared in Europe and it is argumentatively argumentatively 

the first French cookbookthe first French cookbook. . The text shows the start of the change from The text shows the start of the change from

forest dominated game meats to the bread, forest dominated game meats to the bread, olive oil and vegetables of the latter-day olive oil and vegetables of the latter-day Western cuisine.Western cuisine.

1300 – Denmark1300 – Denmark Libellus de art Coquinaria; Libellus de art Coquinaria;

Kochbuch HarpestrengKochbuch Harpestreng

Perhaps Perhaps the first European gastronomic the first European gastronomic codexcodex, that is now thought to have , that is now thought to have originated in the kitchens of Fredrick II originated in the kitchens of Fredrick II who reigned from 1194 to 1250. who reigned from 1194 to 1250.

25/31 recipes, thought to have been of 25/31 recipes, thought to have been of French or Spanish origin, were possibly French or Spanish origin, were possibly translated into Danish another example translated into Danish another example of Europe’s one cuisine for the period.of Europe’s one cuisine for the period.

1304 – France1304 – France Instruction for Preparing All Types of MeatsInstruction for Preparing All Types of Meats

The first manuscript devoted entirely to The first manuscript devoted entirely to meat with 81 constructs written in Latin that meat with 81 constructs written in Latin that were incorporated in La Viandier some 70 years were incorporated in La Viandier some 70 years later.later.

1314 – Italy1314 – Italy Libre de Coquina; Book of Cooking – ItalyLibre de Coquina; Book of Cooking – Italy

Thought to be the oldest known Italian / Thought to be the oldest known Italian / Neapolitan manuscript that ties certain foods to Neapolitan manuscript that ties certain foods to certain areas. It’s Constructs  showed the certain areas. It’s Constructs  showed the obviouslinkage between local cultivars, obviouslinkage between local cultivars, ingredients and recipes. ingredients and recipes.

It was one of the first text to acknowledged It was one of the first text to acknowledged “they make it that way there and this way “they make it that way there and this way here”.here”.

1370 – French1370 – French Le Viandier; The ProvisionerLe Viandier; The Provisioner

First known French recipe collection by First known French recipe collection by Guillaume Triel {Taillevent}, printed in 1486. Guillaume Triel {Taillevent}, printed in 1486.

There were only four existent manuscripts of There were only four existent manuscripts of the works, until one was destroyed on D-the works, until one was destroyed on D-Day, 1944.  Day, 1944. 

The texts contain between 133 to 221 The texts contain between 133 to 221 constructs although some may have constructs although some may have been added to the later copies.  been added to the later copies.  

The text describes par boiling meat The text describes par boiling meat before roasting it which would certainly before roasting it which would certainly improve the tooth of tough meat. improve the tooth of tough meat.

It is now thought that Triel’s work was simply It is now thought that Triel’s work was simply a rewrite of an earlier text entitled the a rewrite of an earlier text entitled the manuscript of Zion / Sion written around manuscript of Zion / Sion written around 1300. Research continues!1300. Research continues!

1390 – England1390 – England The Forme of CuryThe Forme of Cury

The earliest English language assemblage of The earliest English language assemblage of recipesrecipes, written around 1390, mentions olive oil, , written around 1390, mentions olive oil, porpoise porridge, boiled fruits in puff pastry and porpoise porridge, boiled fruits in puff pastry and custards. custards.

One of the oldest known English language One of the oldest known English language manuscripts in existence. The original vellum manuscripts in existence. The original vellum codex contained 196 constructs.codex contained 196 constructs.

1393 - France1393 - France Le Menagier de Paris; The Goodman of Paris, Le Menagier de Paris; The Goodman of Paris,

FranceFrance

This book was written for a young French bride This book was written for a young French bride by her husband and contains lots of household by her husband and contains lots of household tips as well as recipes for jellies, cod, sauce tips as well as recipes for jellies, cod, sauce Cameline and crepes. Published in 1846 and was Cameline and crepes. Published in 1846 and was one of the first instructional guides for one of the first instructional guides for “housewives”.“housewives”.

1420 – French1420 – French Du Fait de Cuisine; Because of Cooking/CuisineDu Fait de Cuisine; Because of Cooking/Cuisine

Created by Chiquart Amicvzo and written by the Created by Chiquart Amicvzo and written by the town clerk/scribe of Annessier with 78-81 town clerk/scribe of Annessier with 78-81 recipes and a list for setting up a kitchen with recipes and a list for setting up a kitchen with the proper pots and pans. the proper pots and pans.

Myth tells us that the recipes are supposed to Myth tells us that the recipes are supposed to be those used to prepared for a 3 day banquet be those used to prepared for a 3 day banquet for Amadeus VIII the Duke of Savoy held in for Amadeus VIII the Duke of Savoy held in 1420.1420.

One of the few accounts of a medieval banquet One of the few accounts of a medieval banquet arranged into menu items, presentation and arranged into menu items, presentation and guidelines. Recipes are presented in sections guidelines. Recipes are presented in sections for feast and fast days since the year was split for feast and fast days since the year was split almost equally between them during the period.almost equally between them during the period.

1435 – Italy1435 – Italy Registrum Coquine; Registry of CookingRegistrum Coquine; Registry of Cooking

Johane Bockenheim was a German cleric / Johane Bockenheim was a German cleric / cook who worked for pope Martin V and cook who worked for pope Martin V and other church movers and shakers in his other church movers and shakers in his career. career.

He always ended the 74 individual recipes He always ended the 74 individual recipes in his book with the tagline: et erit bonum in his book with the tagline: et erit bonum pro “excellent for” … Italians / Spaniards pro “excellent for” … Italians / Spaniards or barons / kings or beggars / hookers …or barons / kings or beggars / hookers …

This work had constructs for fat days and This work had constructs for fat days and lean in addition to 10 or so for fish.lean in addition to 10 or so for fish.

1440 – Germany; Print Technology Arrives1440 – Germany; Print Technology Arrives

Johannes Gutenberg invents movable Johannes Gutenberg invents movable type printing although the Chinese type printing although the Chinese have been printing full-have been printing full-page woodblock text for centuries page woodblock text for centuries and had mass-produced cooking and had mass-produced cooking broadsheets long before Europe. broadsheets long before Europe.

1440 – England1440 – England The Boke of KokeryThe Boke of Kokery

Written around 1440, with 182 constructs Written around 1440, with 182 constructs Became Became the first printed English language the first printed English language

cookbookcookbook. . It has three sections and many of these constructs It has three sections and many of these constructs

are said to come from an earlier work entitled are said to come from an earlier work entitled Diversa Servicia.Diversa Servicia.

1455-1467 – Italy1455-1467 – Italy Libro de arte coquinqria; The Book of Culinary ArtLibro de arte coquinqria; The Book of Culinary Art

65 sheets by Maestro Martino Como 65 sheets by Maestro Martino Como Translated into French, English and German and Translated into French, English and German and

promoted the use of sugar, butter and pork while promoted the use of sugar, butter and pork while deriding the excesses of the medieval  table.  deriding the excesses of the medieval  table. 

Began the move towards regional food local flavors  Began the move towards regional food local flavors  instead of the exotics spices from the east. instead of the exotics spices from the east.

1477 – Spain1477 – Spain Libre del Coch; Book of The CookLibre del Coch; Book of The Cook

Robert Nola wrote Robert Nola wrote the first cookbook printed in Catalanthe first cookbook printed in Catalan in 1520 then Castilian in 1525 where he claims that the in 1520 then Castilian in 1525 where he claims that the constructs are of Spanish, Italian, French and Moorish constructs are of Spanish, Italian, French and Moorish style. style.

The book contains 242 constructs and is yet another The book contains 242 constructs and is yet another example of the continuity between European cuisine.example of the continuity between European cuisine.

1508 – England1508 – England The Boke of Kervynge; The Book of CarvingThe Boke of Kervynge; The Book of Carving

The first printed English book that tells you how to carve The first printed English book that tells you how to carve a joint of meat, a whole fish, a side of whale, or an a joint of meat, a whole fish, a side of whale, or an orange. orange.

This work shows the importance placed on the roasted This work shows the importance placed on the roasted joint and the status of the court/manor carver. joint and the status of the court/manor carver.

Just think of your father trying to chop up the Just think of your father trying to chop up the Thanksgiving turkey.Thanksgiving turkey.

1533 to 1589 – France … The Myth Begins1533 to 1589 – France … The Myth Begins La fantome des Medici’s; The ghost of the De Medici’sLa fantome des Medici’s; The ghost of the De Medici’s

Caterina Maria Romula di Lorenzo de Medici comes to Caterina Maria Romula di Lorenzo de Medici comes to France and becomes queen 14 years later in 1547 . France and becomes queen 14 years later in 1547 . Legend tells us that Caterina brought cookbooks and Legend tells us that Caterina brought cookbooks and cooks with her when she first came to court but there cooks with her when she first came to court but there is no historical record of this myth.  Although she may is no historical record of this myth.  Although she may have not brought a brigand of cooks or some of the have not brought a brigand of cooks or some of the fewer than 100 titled cookbooks that existed in the fewer than 100 titled cookbooks that existed in the period, she certainly brought the trappings of period, she certainly brought the trappings of renaissance La Dolce Vita with her.renaissance La Dolce Vita with her.

She established the way the French court would She established the way the French court would dress, party and eat for centuries to come.  She dress, party and eat for centuries to come.  She brought all the cravings that included men and brought all the cravings that included men and women dining together, the use of personal forks and women dining together, the use of personal forks and spoons, napkins and handkerchiefs and individual spoons, napkins and handkerchiefs and individual place settings that featured a variety of glass drinking place settings that featured a variety of glass drinking vessels and porcelain plates to replace the bulky vessels and porcelain plates to replace the bulky pewter and silver of the periodpewter and silver of the period..

You can be sure that Cat let the guys in the You can be sure that Cat let the guys in the kitchen know that she favored poultry with kitchen know that she favored poultry with citrus, artichokes, broccoli, Savoy cabbage, citrus, artichokes, broccoli, Savoy cabbage, pastas, oil and vinegar salads, puff pastry, pastas, oil and vinegar salads, puff pastry, meats without sugar, almond paste, meats without sugar, almond paste, candied flowers, ginger bread, sorbets and candied flowers, ginger bread, sorbets and the dessert table.   Her elaborate the dessert table.   Her elaborate entertainments set the stage for state entertainments set the stage for state affairs that lasted until the revolution and affairs that lasted until the revolution and she was the first European women to use she was the first European women to use snuff; what could be more French than snuff; what could be more French than sneezing into you fine lace handkerchief sneezing into you fine lace handkerchief after a little snort of tobacco?after a little snort of tobacco?

1604 – France1604 – France Ouverture de Cusine; The Kitchen Opening / Ouverture de Cusine; The Kitchen Opening /

The Open KitchenThe Open Kitchen

Lancelot de Casteau’s lost text was Lancelot de Casteau’s lost text was rediscovered in 1958 then published in 1983. rediscovered in 1958 then published in 1983.

This texts mentions potatoes (tartoufle) as This texts mentions potatoes (tartoufle) as well as constructs from Spain, Italy, Hungary, well as constructs from Spain, Italy, Hungary, Ireland, England and Portugal again citing Ireland, England and Portugal again citing examples of the continuity that existed in examples of the continuity that existed in European cuisine. European cuisine.

The work consists of four parts and includes a The work consists of four parts and includes a banquet menu for Bishop Robert Banks in banquet menu for Bishop Robert Banks in 1557 that had 143 courses. 1557 that had 143 courses.

The describe constructs included omelets, The describe constructs included omelets, salads with herbs, sorbets and featured a salads with herbs, sorbets and featured a section on children’s parties.section on children’s parties.

1651 – France1651 – France Le Cuisine François’ The French Cook Le Cuisine François’ The French Cook The Beginnings of Cuisine ClassiqueThe Beginnings of Cuisine Classique of the of the

medieval -gothic period. medieval -gothic period.

Written by François Pierre de la Varenne, Translated Written by François Pierre de la Varenne, Translated into English 1653 and cataloged the changes in into English 1653 and cataloged the changes in French cuisine from the medieval period. French cuisine from the medieval period.

It is the first text to  mentions the lard/ butter and It is the first text to  mentions the lard/ butter and flour roux, Béchamel sauce, stocks, reductions,  puff flour roux, Béchamel sauce, stocks, reductions,  puff pastry, bisques, bouquet garni and the cooking of pastry, bisques, bouquet garni and the cooking of vegetables. vegetables.

It also features the use of sugar in jams, jellies, It also features the use of sugar in jams, jellies, syrups, fruit drinks and a section of salads all “new” syrups, fruit drinks and a section of salads all “new” items. It began incorporating new items from the items. It began incorporating new items from the Columbian exchange that helped to transform all the Columbian exchange that helped to transform all the cuisines of Europe into not only national but regional cuisines of Europe into not only national but regional benchmarks.  benchmarks. 

He also wrote La Patissier François in 1653 which He also wrote La Patissier François in 1653 which was the first French pastry dialogue and his previous was the first French pastry dialogue and his previous work waswork was the first cookbook translated into English. the first cookbook translated into English.

1662 – Italy1662 – Italy L’Arte di Ben Cucinare; The Art of Good CookingL’Arte di Ben Cucinare; The Art of Good Cooking

Written by Stefani Bartolomeo, it is the First Written by Stefani Bartolomeo, it is the First Italian cookbook writer to address himself to the Italian cookbook writer to address himself to the different socio economic classes and regions, different socio economic classes and regions, well before any of his French peers. well before any of his French peers.

This tome also urged it readers to pride This tome also urged it readers to pride themselves in local food ways and reject the themselves in local food ways and reject the high cuisine of Francehigh cuisine of France..

1692 – Italy1692 – Italy Lo scalo alla modena; The Modern StewardLo scalo alla modena; The Modern Steward

Antonio Latini puts forward Antonio Latini puts forward the first tomato the first tomato sauce recipesauce recipe and speaks of a and speaks of a sauce sauce alla spagnuolaalla spagnuola

1789 – France1789 – France The French revolution begins, heads roll, chefs The French revolution begins, heads roll, chefs

get downsized and Madame La Farge knitsget downsized and Madame La Farge knits

Only 50% of the population spoke “French” the Only 50% of the population spoke “French” the rest relied on local dialects filled with patois.rest relied on local dialects filled with patois.

Mandatory military service, a public school Mandatory military service, a public school system and road construction were events and system and road construction were events and measures that helped to standardize language.measures that helped to standardize language.

No national cuisine at this pointNo national cuisine at this point since it is since it is hard to exchange recipes when you don’t speak hard to exchange recipes when you don’t speak the same language and just as hard to the same language and just as hard to transport ingredients from place to place with transport ingredients from place to place with few traversable roads.few traversable roads.

1796 – North America1796 – North America American Cookery, or the art of dressing viands, American Cookery, or the art of dressing viands,

fish, poultry, and vegetables, and the best modes fish, poultry, and vegetables, and the best modes of making pastes, puffs, pies, tarts, puddings, of making pastes, puffs, pies, tarts, puddings, custards, and preserves, and all kinds of cakes, custards, and preserves, and all kinds of cakes, from the imperial plum to plain cake: Adapted to from the imperial plum to plain cake: Adapted to this country, and all grades of life.this country, and all grades of life.

Quite a title for the first written and printed Quite a title for the first written and printed North American cookbook. Amelia North American cookbook. Amelia Simmon’s milestone work featured recipes for Simmon’s milestone work featured recipes for many native cultivars that were indicative of the many native cultivars that were indicative of the way American foodways had adapted indigenous way American foodways had adapted indigenous products and existing native constructs. And of products and existing native constructs. And of course the fact that she was a woman writing for course the fact that she was a woman writing for other women should not be overlooked!other women should not be overlooked!

1810 – France1810 – France Nicholas Appert publishes the first book on Nicholas Appert publishes the first book on

canning/preserving foodcanning/preserving food

1833 – France1833 – France Le Cuisinier ParisienLe Cuisinier Parisien

One of Marie - Antonin Carême most One of Marie - Antonin Carême most important books even though he wrote important books even though he wrote more than a half-dozenmore than a half-dozen

1903 - France1903 - France Le Guide CulinaireLe Guide Culinaire

Georges Auguste Escoffier’s Georges Auguste Escoffier’s most important book, although most important book, although he wrote over a dozen. Enough’s he wrote over a dozen. Enough’s been written about this work to been written about this work to make any further comment make any further comment superfluous.superfluous.

1914 – France1914 – France Le RLe Réépertoire de la Cuisine pertoire de la Cuisine

Written by Louis Saulnier for professionals who had already Written by Louis Saulnier for professionals who had already required the years of experience needed to develop a required the years of experience needed to develop a comprehensive repertoire. No recipes just a listing of comprehensive repertoire. No recipes just a listing of ingredients to refresh your memory.ingredients to refresh your memory.

1935 – France L’Art Culinaire Moderne; Modern 1935 – France L’Art Culinaire Moderne; Modern French Culinary ArtFrench Culinary Art

Henri-Paul Pellaprat wrote this definitive text of over a Henri-Paul Pellaprat wrote this definitive text of over a thousand pages.  Some great photos, done before  there thousand pages.  Some great photos, done before  there were food stylists, and hundreds of classic old school were food stylists, and hundreds of classic old school recipes . Great constructs like eclairs with goose liver puree, recipes . Great constructs like eclairs with goose liver puree, saddle of hare, galantines and lots of rarely seen stuff. saddle of hare, galantines and lots of rarely seen stuff. Pellaprat was the founder of the modern Paris Cordon Bleu Pellaprat was the founder of the modern Paris Cordon Bleu cooking school program.cooking school program.

   1938 – France1938 – France Larousse GastronomiqueLarousse Gastronomique

A massive work documenting modern French culinary art A massive work documenting modern French culinary art with a wealth of illustrations depicting foods and with a wealth of illustrations depicting foods and presentations from the past.presentations from the past.

And Now,And Now,

Back to Our Initial Back to Our Initial Subject, Subject,

if You Please…if You Please…

A Legend is Born!A Legend is Born! October 28October 28thth 1846 1846 Georges Auguste Escoffier is Born in Villeneuve Georges Auguste Escoffier is Born in Villeneuve

Loubet, a charming little village, not far from Loubet, a charming little village, not far from Nice, in the hills of the Provence area of South Nice, in the hills of the Provence area of South Eastern FranceEastern France

His father , a very well respected man, is the His father , a very well respected man, is the town’s blacksmith. Whilst his days are hard and town’s blacksmith. Whilst his days are hard and long, he also operated a prosperous business long, he also operated a prosperous business selling tobacco from his hand pushed cart to selling tobacco from his hand pushed cart to nearby villagesnearby villages

His mother tends to the family’s chores and daily His mother tends to the family’s chores and daily routineroutine

The Early YearsThe Early Years Georges Auguste Escoffier grows up Georges Auguste Escoffier grows up

surrounded by hard working family surrounded by hard working family members. He takes a particular liking to his members. He takes a particular liking to his grandmother, who is a fabulous menagère grandmother, who is a fabulous menagère and cook, thus perhaps laying the initial and cook, thus perhaps laying the initial steps for what would become his calling and steps for what would become his calling and famefame

Escoffier takes a strong interest in painting , Escoffier takes a strong interest in painting , although his father does not think this craft although his father does not think this craft would allow him to make a decent livingwould allow him to make a decent living

It is time to learn a trade!!!It is time to learn a trade!!!

At the tender age of 13, still thinking of At the tender age of 13, still thinking of becoming an artist, Georges Auguste becoming an artist, Georges Auguste accompanies his father for a leisure weekend accompanies his father for a leisure weekend to Nice. Once they arrive, they visit his uncle to Nice. Once they arrive, they visit his uncle who operates a very successful restaurant (in who operates a very successful restaurant (in an area known as The Old Nice) called “Le an area known as The Old Nice) called “Le Restaurant Français”.Restaurant Français”.

Without much of a discussion, young Escoffier Without much of a discussion, young Escoffier is hired on the spot!is hired on the spot!

Working under very difficult and harsh Working under very difficult and harsh conditions, Georges Auguste is spared no conditions, Georges Auguste is spared no tasks or strenuous chores. No favoritism here tasks or strenuous chores. No favoritism here mind you! He quickly learns the inns and outs mind you! He quickly learns the inns and outs of the kitchens, including household tasks and of the kitchens, including household tasks and even how to inspect and receive merchandiseeven how to inspect and receive merchandise

As Georges Auguste learned the ropes about As Georges Auguste learned the ropes about operating a restaurant, he became anxious to operating a restaurant, he became anxious to put to practice all he had learned while put to practice all he had learned while working for his uncle. The opportunity came working for his uncle. The opportunity came along in the form of a new assignment. He was along in the form of a new assignment. He was hired without much difficulties by the nearby hired without much difficulties by the nearby “Hotel Bellevue”, because of his knowledge “Hotel Bellevue”, because of his knowledge about purchasing provisions and his ability to about purchasing provisions and his ability to organize service.organize service.

Escoffier knew, even at that young age, that Escoffier knew, even at that young age, that he would never fully master the craft he had he would never fully master the craft he had chosen (or was assigned to) simply by staying chosen (or was assigned to) simply by staying local. He had bigger dreams…local. He had bigger dreams…

And those dreams were soon to be And those dreams were soon to be answered….answered….

January 1865, while staying at The Hotel January 1865, while staying at The Hotel Bellevue, Mr. Bardoux, the owner of “Le Petit Bellevue, Mr. Bardoux, the owner of “Le Petit Moulin Rouge” in Paris, met a young man Moulin Rouge” in Paris, met a young man eager to learn. Needles to say he was eager to learn. Needles to say he was impressed by this young cook. impressed by this young cook.

Even though Mr. Bardoux had an excellent Chef Even though Mr. Bardoux had an excellent Chef de Cuisine by the name of Ulysse Rohan, he de Cuisine by the name of Ulysse Rohan, he decided to offer this young cook a position at decided to offer this young cook a position at his restaurant, knowing that he would be able his restaurant, knowing that he would be able to craft this young man’s future in no time.to craft this young man’s future in no time.

Chef Rohan was a ruthless brutal man who’s Chef Rohan was a ruthless brutal man who’s vulgarity preceded his talent. Escoffier , who vulgarity preceded his talent. Escoffier , who was short and frail, suffered more than anyone! was short and frail, suffered more than anyone!

He would have to make up for his deficiencies He would have to make up for his deficiencies through finesse and intelligence. What a through finesse and intelligence. What a lessons this was…lessons this was…

April 12April 12thth 1865 Auguste Escoffier arrives in 1865 Auguste Escoffier arrives in Paris. He takes his first job as a “commis - Paris. He takes his first job as a “commis - Rôtisseur” very seriously and immediately Rôtisseur” very seriously and immediately makes his mark. makes his mark.

However, he would have to leave this position However, he would have to leave this position to join the 28to join the 28thth Infantry Regiment for a 5 Infantry Regiment for a 5 month period. month period.

Returning to the kitchens of Le Petit Moulin Returning to the kitchens of Le Petit Moulin Rouge, after learning all he could, the summer Rouge, after learning all he could, the summer of 1870 sees him employed as” sauce chef”.of 1870 sees him employed as” sauce chef”.

Later that same year, France declares war on Later that same year, France declares war on Germany!Germany!

Auguste Escoffier is called to arms and, at Auguste Escoffier is called to arms and, at the request of Colonel d’Andlau , is assigned the request of Colonel d’Andlau , is assigned to the Rhine Army Headquarters at Metz, to the Rhine Army Headquarters at Metz, where he is appointed Chef de Cuisine. where he is appointed Chef de Cuisine. Georges Auguste Escoffier is 24 years old.Georges Auguste Escoffier is 24 years old.

Throughout the war years, Escoffier becomes Throughout the war years, Escoffier becomes a prisoner of war, escapes captivity, returns a prisoner of war, escapes captivity, returns to his duties as Chef de Cuisine all the while to his duties as Chef de Cuisine all the while gaining invaluable experience in the field. gaining invaluable experience in the field.

These years will affect greatly his way of These years will affect greatly his way of thinking about food but most importantly, thinking about food but most importantly, his cooking!.his cooking!.

During the winter of 1872, Escoffier During the winter of 1872, Escoffier accepts the position of Head Chef at the accepts the position of Head Chef at the Hotel du Luxembourg in Nice. Hotel du Luxembourg in Nice.

The following spring he returns to Paris. The following spring he returns to Paris. This time as Head Chef of Le Petit Moulin This time as Head Chef of Le Petit Moulin Rouge. He stays until 1878, when the Rouge. He stays until 1878, when the Universal Exhibition brings an influx of Universal Exhibition brings an influx of fastidious gourmets to the dining scene. fastidious gourmets to the dining scene.

His next ventures include management His next ventures include management periods at Maison Chevet (Palais Royal) periods at Maison Chevet (Palais Royal) and at Maison Maire, where he works and at Maison Maire, where he works under the careful eye of Mr. Paillardunder the careful eye of Mr. Paillard

Georges Auguste Georges Auguste EscoffierEscoffier

meets meets

César RitzCésar Ritz

In the 1840’s the Prince of Monaco takes In the 1840’s the Prince of Monaco takes refuge in his Château at Monacorefuge in his Château at Monaco

The annexation of Alsace and Lorraine The annexation of Alsace and Lorraine brings an influx of immigrants who form the brings an influx of immigrants who form the elements of the luxurious hotel industryelements of the luxurious hotel industry

The presence of Queen Victoria at Menton The presence of Queen Victoria at Menton brings immediate attention to the region, brings immediate attention to the region, seeing an illustrious clientele flock to the seeing an illustrious clientele flock to the area.area.

The Hôtel des Anglais and L’Hôtel des Isle The Hôtel des Anglais and L’Hôtel des Isle Britanniques were built at MentonBritanniques were built at Menton

The actual administration of the Hotel des Isles The actual administration of the Hotel des Isles Britanniques is led by a young, efficient, Britanniques is led by a young, efficient, energetic and very capable César Ritz who, not energetic and very capable César Ritz who, not long ago, opened the Grand National Hotel in long ago, opened the Grand National Hotel in LucerneLucerne

Cesar Ritz, born in 1850 at Niederwald in the Cesar Ritz, born in 1850 at Niederwald in the Canton Valais, like many Swiss, possesses the Canton Valais, like many Swiss, possesses the hotel business in his blood. He is a natural…hotel business in his blood. He is a natural…

In 1861, Monaco’s Sea Bathing Society begins the In 1861, Monaco’s Sea Bathing Society begins the construction of the superb Monte Carlo Casino. construction of the superb Monte Carlo Casino. The Hôtel de Paris is added not long thereafterThe Hôtel de Paris is added not long thereafter

Nothing built was to be compared to the luxury Nothing built was to be compared to the luxury of the soon to be built Grand Hôtel, at Monte of the soon to be built Grand Hôtel, at Monte CarloCarlo

The FootprintsThe Footprintstoto

History History

During one of his brilliant seasons, Cesar Ritz During one of his brilliant seasons, Cesar Ritz makes the acquaintance of an excellent Chef makes the acquaintance of an excellent Chef by the name of Jean Giroix. by the name of Jean Giroix.

We have to note that We have to note that Ritz was one of the first Ritz was one of the first hôtelier to appreciate the importance of the hôtelier to appreciate the importance of the cuisine to a hotel’s reputation!cuisine to a hotel’s reputation!

Inevitably and almost naturally, Ritz and Inevitably and almost naturally, Ritz and Giroix take over the reins of the Grand Hotel Giroix take over the reins of the Grand Hotel in Monte Carlo. Under their careful planning, in Monte Carlo. Under their careful planning, it attracts the rich, well born tourists of every it attracts the rich, well born tourists of every nationality and more…nationality and more…

While all this was going on, the Catelain While all this was going on, the Catelain brothers become very eager to do well . The brothers become very eager to do well . The brothers had just taken over the reins at The brothers had just taken over the reins at The Hotel de Paris and realized what Ritz had Hotel de Paris and realized what Ritz had started. started.

And bright as the brothers are, they And bright as the brothers are, they resolved to buy the services of Chef Giroix at resolved to buy the services of Chef Giroix at any priceany price

Ritz therefore, has to find a Chef of equal Ritz therefore, has to find a Chef of equal brilliance! And the sooner the better…brilliance! And the sooner the better…

Giroix often spoken of Escoffier to Ritz, since Giroix often spoken of Escoffier to Ritz, since the two worked at Le Petit Moulin for a the two worked at Le Petit Moulin for a period of timeperiod of time

Ritz has no objection in replacing Giroix by Ritz has no objection in replacing Giroix by this well respected young man and it is thus, this well respected young man and it is thus, during the season of 1883 -1884 that during the season of 1883 -1884 that Auguste Escoffier arrives in MonacoAuguste Escoffier arrives in Monaco

Their meeting would change the hospitality Their meeting would change the hospitality industry as we know it, forever…industry as we know it, forever…

Madame Ritz wrote of their meeting: Madame Ritz wrote of their meeting:

“ “The collaboration of Ritz and Escoffier The collaboration of Ritz and Escoffier must be counted as one of the most must be counted as one of the most fortunate of their lives”.fortunate of their lives”.

And Ritz himself to follow:And Ritz himself to follow:

“ “Monsieur Escoffier is undoubtedly the Monsieur Escoffier is undoubtedly the finest Chef in the world. He is far in advance finest Chef in the world. He is far in advance of all the other Chefs I have ever met”.of all the other Chefs I have ever met”.

The Master’s LegacyThe Master’s Legacy

Once Maître Escoffier was asked by Once Maître Escoffier was asked by Madame Duchêne, one his many female Madame Duchêne, one his many female admires who’s husband was managing admires who’s husband was managing the Ritz in London “What is the real secret the Ritz in London “What is the real secret of your art? I have heard many of your art? I have heard many explanations but I should like to learn the explanations but I should like to learn the true solution of the problem from your own true solution of the problem from your own mouth”mouth”

““Madame, replied Escoffier, my success Madame, replied Escoffier, my success comes from the fact that my best dishes comes from the fact that my best dishes were created for ladies”were created for ladies”

The partnership with César Ritz creates The partnership with César Ritz creates the most successful, luxurious hotel chain the most successful, luxurious hotel chain in the world. in the world.

They include:They include: The Savoy and Carlton in LondonThe Savoy and Carlton in London The Grand Hotel, RomeThe Grand Hotel, Rome L'Hôtel des Thermes, Salsamaggiore, L'Hôtel des Thermes, Salsamaggiore,

ParmaParma Ritz Hotels in Paris, London, New York, Ritz Hotels in Paris, London, New York,

Montreal, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Madrid Montreal, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Madrid and Budapest. and Budapest.

Besides having written several cookbooks, Besides having written several cookbooks, Georges Auguste Escoffier leaves us much Georges Auguste Escoffier leaves us much more than recipesmore than recipes

He takes grate pride and spends a notable He takes grate pride and spends a notable amount of time developing ways to preserve amount of time developing ways to preserve foods ,mostly by a very early canning foods ,mostly by a very early canning procedure (his experience during the Prussian procedure (his experience during the Prussian war left an indelible mark about sustainability) war left an indelible mark about sustainability) and feeding the needyand feeding the needy

He makes sure no one under his command He makes sure no one under his command uses profanities or the wrong type of languageuses profanities or the wrong type of language

His cooks always had access to some sort of His cooks always had access to some sort of refreshment, most often a drink made out from refreshment, most often a drink made out from BarleyBarley

No one smokes in his kitchensNo one smokes in his kitchens

He comes to the assistance of one of his He comes to the assistance of one of his former Chef, fallen ill and in need of funds to former Chef, fallen ill and in need of funds to be hospitalized. Escoffier takes it all under his be hospitalized. Escoffier takes it all under his umbrella till the poor man passesumbrella till the poor man passes

He brings food and even buys a new horse for He brings food and even buys a new horse for a group of nuns at a convent near his a group of nuns at a convent near his hometownhometown

One of the most important achievement of his One of the most important achievement of his legacy is the creation of the brigade system. legacy is the creation of the brigade system. System for which he is duly credited. Not System for which he is duly credited. Not surprising since Escoffier possesses a gift for surprising since Escoffier possesses a gift for organization, at an early age. Again he draws organization, at an early age. Again he draws from his wartime experience when food was from his wartime experience when food was scarce and mouths needed to be fedscarce and mouths needed to be fed

Throughout his career, Georges Auguste Throughout his career, Georges Auguste Escoffier lives an exemplary life. He serves the Escoffier lives an exemplary life. He serves the richest, the noblest, Kings and Queens, Heads richest, the noblest, Kings and Queens, Heads of State the pretenders and the poor alike, of State the pretenders and the poor alike, never forgetting where he started or where he never forgetting where he started or where he came fromcame from

He never smokes or drinks, being afraid that He never smokes or drinks, being afraid that those abuses would affect his sense of smell those abuses would affect his sense of smell and tasteand taste

He creates and writes over 5,000 recipes during He creates and writes over 5,000 recipes during his life timehis life time

While at the Carlton, Escoffier leads his entire While at the Carlton, Escoffier leads his entire brigade of 52 to the flat rooftop for a brigade of 52 to the flat rooftop for a photograph. At that moment, even the most photograph. At that moment, even the most overworked of them feels like he could reach overworked of them feels like he could reach for the stars for the stars

Hotels become more sophisticated and Hotels become more sophisticated and luxurious day after day, the kitchen facilities luxurious day after day, the kitchen facilities have no choice but to follow. Who better to have no choice but to follow. Who better to accept these tasks than the Master himselfaccept these tasks than the Master himself

Escoffier is asked to design and staff some of Escoffier is asked to design and staff some of the most modern and important kitchen of its the most modern and important kitchen of its timetime

In 1921, retiring at age 61, he returns to In 1921, retiring at age 61, he returns to Monaco. A place he never truly left. During his Monaco. A place he never truly left. During his illustrious career, Escoffier ‘s family rarely illustrious career, Escoffier ‘s family rarely follows him. They were true to their heritage follows him. They were true to their heritage and place of birthand place of birth

Even though César Ritz and Escoffier reached Even though César Ritz and Escoffier reached fame and fortune, once they split, they really fame and fortune, once they split, they really didn’t stay much in touch, both returning to the didn’t stay much in touch, both returning to the place they once called homeplace they once called home

Ritz withdrew progressively from the affairs of his Ritz withdrew progressively from the affairs of his various companies, selling out his interests in various companies, selling out his interests in hotelshotels

By 1912, according to Marie-Louise Ritz, to all By 1912, according to Marie-Louise Ritz, to all intents and purposes his life had finished. In 1913 intents and purposes his life had finished. In 1913 he was placed in a private hospital at Lausanne, he was placed in a private hospital at Lausanne, and the following year he was moved to another. and the following year he was moved to another. He died on 26 October 1918.He died on 26 October 1918. Although from a Although from a humble Swiss background, César Ritz and his humble Swiss background, César Ritz and his luxurious hotels became legendary, and his name luxurious hotels became legendary, and his name entered the English language as an epitome of entered the English language as an epitome of high-class cuisine and accommodation.high-class cuisine and accommodation. He is He is buried in the village of his birth.buried in the village of his birth.

Georges Auguste EscoffierGeorges Auguste Escoffier

Passes Passes

12 February 193512 February 1935

His written legacy includes:His written legacy includes:

LLe Traité sur L'art de Travailler les Fleurs en e Traité sur L'art de Travailler les Fleurs en CireCire (1886) (1886)

Le Guide Culinaire (1903) (1903) Les Fleurs en CireLes Fleurs en Cire Le Carnet d'EpicureLe Carnet d'Epicure (A Gourmet's Notebook) (A Gourmet's Notebook) Le Livre des MenusLe Livre des Menus (1912) (1912) L'Aide - mémoire CulinaireL'Aide - mémoire Culinaire (1919) (1919) Le RizLe Riz (Rice) (1927) (Rice) (1927) La MorueLa Morue (Cod) (1929) (Cod) (1929) Ma CuisineMa Cuisine (1934) (1934) 2000 French Recipes2000 French Recipes Memories of My LifeMemories of My Life

Old (Classical) Old (Classical)

v/s v/s

New (Nouvelle)New (Nouvelle)

Dilemma or simply a weak argument?Dilemma or simply a weak argument?

Did we really invent anything or do we re-Did we really invent anything or do we re-invent all always?invent all always?

What about the times of Vatel, Tirel, de la What about the times of Vatel, Tirel, de la Varenne, Carême, Escoffier, Point, Bocuse, Varenne, Carême, Escoffier, Point, Bocuse, Troigros, Chapel, Guérard, Robuchon, Troigros, Chapel, Guérard, Robuchon, Maximin, Loiseau, Outhier, Ducasse, Maximin, Loiseau, Outhier, Ducasse, VonGerichten, Adrià… and YOU!VonGerichten, Adrià… and YOU!

Final Thoughts…Final Thoughts…

DemoDemo

The versatile Dover Sole The versatile Dover Sole

and the and the

Shallow Poaching MethodShallow Poaching Method