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PORTFOLIODAVE MAKICHUK

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TravelL at e s t n e w s at c a l g a r y h e r a l d . c o m / t r av e l

Section F

iNside Today:

BEACH RETREATSRomance blossoms amid

sun, sea and sand settings See Page F4

CAVES, PLANES & BOATSOut-of-the-ordinary options

for your next vacationSee Page F9

Editor: Lisa Monforton 403-235-7428 [email protected] saturday, apriL 2, 2011

dave makichukcalgary herald

HaVana

it’s a typically warm and sunny afternoon in Havana and a gorgeous,

blue cloudless sky serves as an appropriate backdrop at the nearly packed Estadio Latinoamericano, home to the famed Industriales Lions.

The 55,000-seat stadium is visibly rocking to the hypnotic, pulsating rhythms of a tireless group of conga drummers and young, salsa-

swaying cheerleaders as the Lions’ big hitter, Alex Malleta, slowly strolls up to home plate.

The visiting Ciego de Avila Tigers are in deep trouble; it’s early innings and Los Azules (the Blue Ones), so named for their Blue Jay-like blue and white uniforms, have put two run-ners on base with only one out. The Lions are about to close in for the kill, and the crowd senses it.

It’s a gutsy throw — a fast-ball right down the middle. Crack! A line drive to right.

The crowd erupts — it’s complete and utter pande-monium in the stands as the runners round the bases. A deft pickup in the outfield is followed by a precise throw to second, which is relayed home . . . safe!

Instantly, I’m surrounded by a sea of joyous, bouncing conga-driven “fanaticos” as the entire Lions squad leaps from the dugout to form a line of high-fives for the scoring runner.

Welcome to baseball Cubano-style!

One only has to watch one game in the Cuban National League to gain an appreciation for the re-markable calibre of play, the

fierceness of competition and the undying loyalty of the fans, not to mention the unparalleled experience it offers visitors to Cuba.

Unlike the majority of Canadians who fly south in winter — most of whom head straight to the nearest beach, all-inclusive buffet or bottomless pina colada — I came to experience a week of “beisbol.”

To say that Cuban base-ball has left me — a tried and true MLB Detroit Ti-gers fan since 1967 — com-pletely and utterly spoiled for all time, is an under-statement.

Passion and sheer joy made one visitor ‘fanatico’ for the game

i love Cuba. Goddamn, they play baseball for all the right reasons: ’Cause they like it. They don’t play it

because they can make some more money and sell some more satellite dishes. They play it for all the right reasons.Bill (Spaceman) lee

Original image courtesy Dave Makichukthe industriales lions host a cuban Baseball league game at estadio latinoamericano, in havana.

FINALISTS • Jeju, the largest island off the south coast of Korea’s mainland, is in the running to become one of the new 7 wonders of nature.

Jeju is the only location worldwide to gain three UnesCO world heritage certifications: the Biosphere Reserve in 2002, UnesCO world Heritage site in 2007 and Global Geoparks in 2010. the island’s central feature is Halla mountain, a dormant volcano, which rises 1,950 metres above sea level.

Jeju is one of 28 new 7 wonders of nature finalists. You can see the entire list — which includes Canada’s Bay of Fundy — with images and videos and enter your seven votes at www.n7w.com.

Ladies only tour to India

culture • If your idea of a good time is travelling with women only, China-pac International has just the vacation for you: a new 19-Day Ladies Only India tour departing next Feb. 6.

while the itinerary includes visits to famous sites like the taj Mahal, it also promises a glimpse into India’s cultural, historical and architectural diversity. You’ll visit 11 Indian towns and have such experi-ences as elephant and camel rides, along with sari tying, cooking demonstrations and learning how textile is woven.

the land package com-mences in Delhi and is priced from $4,099. Chi-napac International (www.chinapac.com) can also arrange your airfares.

Three new guidebooks

ON THE SHELF • Let’s Go europe 2011 (Let’s Go, $21.95, 1,220 pages) — the student-travel bible has spruced itself up with a more-readable design, rewritten every listing and added photos. entries have youthful attitude and direct the backpacking crowd to cheap, filling food, nightlife and affordable rooms.■ Guided by a stone-Mason: exploring the Cathedrals, abbeys and Churches of Britain by thomas Maude (tauris Parke, $17, 176 pages) — How in the world did workmen using simple tools create the wondrous sanctuaries of the U.K.? this paperback will tell you.■ all aboard: the Complete north american train travel Guide by Jim Loomis (http://takeatrainride.blogspot.com) — not only will the third edition of this useful guide (Chicago Review Press, $18.95, 354 pages) help you plan a trip, but it also will tell you such fascinating tidbits as why a train that’s late can still be considered on time.

— Calgary Herald

World of wonders

roSS Werlandmcclatchy newspapers

In the fun book Concierge Confidential, superstar Manhattan concierge Mi-chael Fazio explains how to pry what you want out of the service world. He provides some intriguing insight into the inner human brat that service people often face. For that, you’ll have to buy the book. But here are a handful of his tips for navi-

gating this rusty old world in more princely fashion:■ No reservation at the restaurant? No problem. Check in with the host, be engaging and acknowledge that you’re an idiot. Say, “Look, I know I’m a loser. I didn’t make a reservation. I’m in your hands.” Fazio swears by it.■ Waiters have more clout than you know and can re-ward good customers. Tip no less than 20 per cent.

■ Hotels track your com-plaints. If you are a nice guest, that will go on your record. You may be re-warded even at other hotels. And if you’re a jerk, you may be rewarded for that too.■ If you have a reason to send food back, be very gra-cious no matter how you feel. You might be surprised at how well you’ll be treated.■ “Don’t make plans when you’re drunk. Trust me.”■ “You’re not going to get

good service from some-body who’s afraid of you.” ■ When trolling for celebri-ties at restaurants, sit up front, not in the back. In front, you’ll see the “whole parade.”■ In selecting a service person, do you want to see a cute face or get help? “I always look for the oldest, least glamorous person.”

Above all, treat service people as if you’re on their team, and they will deliver.

Concierge dishes on how to get your wish

See BEISBOL, Page F2

concierge confidential is filled with great tips on how to get your every wish when you’re travelling.

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F2 Saturday, April 2, 2011 Breaking news at calgaryherald.comtravel

The experience starts at the ticket window. A standard seating ticket for a game at Estadio Lati-noamericano, home of Havana’s popular Industriales Lions, who some have called the New York Yankees of Cuba for their impres-sive string of championship titles, is only 3 Cuban CUC, or about $3.50 Cdn.

Or, if you go with a local, who buys the ticket for you while you stand out of sight, it will cost only about 2 Cuban pesos — gasp! — for a pair. The equivalent of less than 5 cents Cdn!

No booze is allowed in the stands, which is just as well, and police will search your backpack should you have one (bottled wa-ter is OK).

That’s a good thing, by the way. There is a strong police presence and they will spring into action at the slightest sign of trouble.

Not that there was much, to speak of. Cuban fans are rabid for the game, but, to my surprise, they are largely well-behaved. Emo-tional exchanges between fans of rival teams can be heated, but in a lighthearted way.

Like all sports stadiums, there is a great assortment of snacks.

Hot pastries, ham and cheese sandwiches, popcorn and candy, along with ultra-strong espresso coffee, are for the taking.

On to the ambience.There is nothing quite like the

Cuban National League experi-ence.

For one thing, the conga drum-ming and lively dancing by team “cheerleaders,” who are some-times on hand, never stops.

It doesn’t take long before you too, are swaying or tapping to the beat. More so during the mid-innings stretch, which allowed the drummers and dancers to really get into it.

Afraid to say, it puts the North American version of the seventh-inning stretch to shame.

Industriales also features a mas-cot, a good-natured Lion who kept the crowd amused, albeit with some adult-oriented gestures to-ward the opposing team.

This befits the crowd, of course, which is 90 per cent adult males, with a few families sprinkled in.

On the field, the game is largely identical to MLB, but if the game is tied after nine innings, a tie-breaker comes into play, so the game doesn’t drag on forever.

The new rule, which apparently is not popular with some fans, automatically puts two men on base in the 10th, and subsequent innings if needed.

Teams can choose any batter to lead off, and then revert to the regular lineup after that.

Almost all games start at 1 p.m., to take advantage of the daylight hours, and this is especially important at Estadio Latino-americano, where the lights have reportedly been inoperable since last season.

There are some subtle Cuban nuances, too.

Fans are asked to throw errant foul balls back onto the field, to help the team cut down on ex-penses. And, it was nice to see a female umpire, who worked the third-base line.

One on-field incident I wit-nessed also made clear the Cuban approach to the game, or any game, for that matter.

I watched as a Tiger left-fielder raced to the foul line to catch a hard-hit, errant fly ball. The effort was valiant, but doomed.

He smacked the wall with a huge thud, dropping the ball and clearly injuring himself in the process.

Refusing a stretcher, he barely

made it off the field, with the aid of the manager and a trainer.

Expecting a warm round of ap-plause, this poor fellow earned a round of taunting jeers, as soon as he neared the dugout. Shocked, I turned to a Cuban spectator next to me, asking him why this guy got the raspberry.

He responded, with a sharp wave of the hand: “If you’re on the field, you’re the enemy.”

Clearly, there is no quarter given, or taken in Cubano beisbol!

As for the calibre of play, just look at the number of past and current Cuban players in the ma-jors, and wonder how many more would be drawing mega-salaries if the U.S. ended its decades-long trade and cultural embargo on the Caribbean nation.

Though the ranks have been depleted some after a spate of high-profile defections (reliever Aroldis Chapman, a.k.a. the “Cu-ban missile,” holds the record for the fastest recorded pitch in the majors at 105.1 m.ph. and was signed by the Cincinnati Reds last season to a six-year, $30-million contract), baseball experts say if the blockade was ended, dozens of players, if not more, would jump to the majors.

Not only that, but within a few

years, the number of Cuban play-ers could even exceed that of the Dominican Republic.

In the words of Cuban defector Alberto Castillo, who pitches for the Baltimore Orioles: “Cuban players, they were made to play baseball.”

Suffice to say, in one Lions homestand, I saw some great ac-tion, including a fierce pitching duel with one of Villa Clara’s ace pitchers, some incredible fielding and hitting, a near bench-clearing brawl prompted by an argument over a called strike, not to men-tion some great conga music and crowd shenanigans.

It doesn’t take long to become a regular — a few games in I re-ceived taps on the shoulder from familiar fans, offering me ciga-rettes, candy or just some good discussion on the previous play.

Cubanos share a passion for the game, and it’s downright infec-tious.

And I can only shudder at the thought of what I would have missed, had I just sat on some beach, drinking pina coladas in-stead.

BEISBOL: Nothing quite like a Cuban National League experience

FrOm F1

Herald Archive, Getty ImagesThe Industriales Lions mascot greets supporters in the stands at Latinoamericano stadium in Havana.

■ GETTING THERE: Sunwing.ca has numerous packages available to Havana and other destinations in Cuba. The flights can some-times depart late, and legroom is limited (unless you buy the $40 upgrade) on those stretch 737-800s, but FA staff are definitely a notch above and inflight meals are included, along with headphones and other freebies.■ WHERE TO STAY: I stayed at the fabulous Nacional Hotel in Vedado, which features an incred-ible breakfast buffet (17 CUC) in a classy atmosphere and my eighth-floor room also had a stunning view of the Malacon. Also, it’s only a 6 CUC cab ride from the Nacion-al to Estadio Latinoamericano, but you can also take a bicycle taxi for only 1 CUC.■ BASEBALL INFO: The National Series features 16 teams split into west and east divisions. The season runs from late Novem-ber to March, with the playoff quarter-finals starting in early April. Unfortunately, both Havana-based teams, including defending champion Industriales and the Metropolitano Guerreros (War-riors), did not make the cut.■ SOURCES: Finding an accurate season or playoff schedule can be daunting, but for basic info, go online at http://www.base-balldecuba.com/indexeng.asp. The Spanish link can be accessed at http://www.baseballdecuba.com/Index.asp. Also, if you search “Cuba National Baseball Series” on travel websites, such as TripAdvisor.com, you can find a wealth of information. To contact the Federacion Cubana de Beisbol in Havana, phone 07-879-7980.

— Dave Makichuk

If You Go

ONLINE • On the heels of a long, harsh winter which saw travel numbers to Florida soar, Visit Orlando has unveiled a new web-site that provides a user-friendly vacation planning experience.

VisitOrlando.com — a one-stop solution for researching and vacation planning — features a new look, enhanced planning tools and is now available in eight languages.

Whether it’s accessing informa-tion about attractions to choosing an evening of entertainment, this online portal offers travellers the ability to research and pre-plan nearly every aspect of their vaca-tion. Consumers can also share itineraries with others to either provide tips or garner feedback.

Some of the features include:■ Trip Ideas Generator — To kick-start vacation planning, travellers answer a few questions about their travel party and activities of interest and this simple and fun tool instantly offers a range of customized ideas.■ Trip Itinerary Builder — For those ready to dive deeper into vacation planning, the Trip Itinerary Builder allows travellers to add accommo-dations, activities and restaurants of interest to the itinerary.

Visit Orlando has also launched a mobile solution, VisitOrlando.mobi, that offers the same research and planning tools but is tailored to mobile devices includ-ing iPhones.

To order a complimentary vaca-tion planning kit that includes a comprehensive Official Vacation Guide and Orlando Magicard or to purchase discount attraction tick-ets, log onto VisitOrlando.com or call a travel counsellor at 1-800-551-0181 or 407-363-5872.

— Calgary Herald

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Breaking news at calgaryherald.com Friday, august 28, 2009 F5

Driving.cap r e v i e w : 2 0 1 0 a s t o n m a r t i n d B s v o l a n t e

AstonMartin’s510-h.p. supercarsurprisinglyeasy to handle

Dave MakichukCalgary Herald

“Be careful going down thecurb, the front spoilercosts about $10,000.”

Thewords from the AstonMartin rep reverberated inmybrain, leaving a distinct impres-sion, as he handedme the Emo-tion Control Unit— essentiallythe keys to a brand new lightningsilver $325,000 AstonMartin DBSVolante roadster.I couldn’t help but be reminded

of a similar scene which hadplayed out on the big screen sev-eral times frommy youth to pres-ent day: “Try to bring it back inone piece 007,” an exasperated Qwarns James Bond.All to no avail of course. More

often than not, the car got trashed,but usually for a good cause—saving the world and so forth.But on this day, wewon’t be

chasing any bad guys on dark-ened, twisty roads, in a desperatesearch for a kidnapped Britishagent, or banging doors at highspeed along twisty tunnels liningthe shore of Lake Como.In fact, I showed up at the North

American Volante’s launch inCalgary, hosted by AstonMartinof Calgary and the Dilawri Group,with a passenger— fellow autoaficionado and longtime buddy JR— to play the part of co-driver.As well as offering his impres-

sions of the vehicle, he wouldmore importantly act as mysecond set of eyes on Calgary’sprecarious, construction-strewnroads, warningme in advance, Ihoped, of any unseen dangers thatcame our way.AstonMartin rep Lawrence

Romanosky gave us a quick pre-flight rundown as we circled theDBSVolante, which sat unassum-ingly outside the dealership inGlendeer Circle.We learned that this particular

roadster was the 16th convertiblemodel produced in the company’s95-year history.Romanosky rattled off a litany

of impressive specs: an all-alu-minum framewith carbon fibretrims; 510-horsepower V-12 enginecapable of 0 to 100 km/h in 4.3seconds; Touchtronic 2 six-speedgearboxwith shift-by-wire; 1,000watt Bang andOlufsen BeoSoundDBS stereo system; Dynamic Sta-bility Control; Servotronic speed-sensitive steering; Pirelli P Zerosfront and back, etc., etc. . . .The rest I didn’t hear as I drifted

off into a Homer Simpson-esquestate of bliss, feeling somewhatoverwhelmed by the driving ex-perience that was about to comemyway.“This is the Emotion Control

Unit,” Romanosky said, as hehandedme an oddly-named andodd-looking pocket-sized de-vice about the size of a cigarettelighter. Bearing a beautiful sap-phire crystal embossed with theAstonMartin badge, Romanoskydemonstrated by inserting it intothe dash and holding it there asecond. Suddenly, themuscularV-12 sprang to life.On either side of the key fob bay

were the Park, Reverse, Neutraland Drive buttons.While theDBS also had shift paddles, Ro-manosky pointed out that the carwas quite content as a cruiser, andusing the shift paddles wouldn’tbe necessary for our test drive.“What if I touch the paddles by

mistake,” I asked sheepishly.Not to worry, I was told, the car

will correct things for you.Now, for anyonewho has never

driven a $325,000 roadster su-percar off a dealership parkinglot, I can say quite honestly thatmy emotions ran somewherebetween abject fear and a placeof higher glory— coupled with achildlike joy I’ve never quite feltbefore on four wheels.What Boomer frommy genera-

tion didn’t have the AstonMartinCorgi die-cast toy fromGoldfin-ger, complete with ejection seat,bulletproof shield andmachineguns?I deliberately held back from

asking the rep where the ejectionseat button was, knowing full wellit must be kept hidden until youactually plunk down the 325Gs,

plus GST. But back to the car . . .The very first impression was

unmistakable.“My god, do you hear that

exhaust note?” JR said. “That isincredible.”How can one fall in love with an

exhaust note, you ask? Quite eas-ily, actually.The V-12 power plant purrs so

beautifully, so elegantly . . . andwith somuch power— one darenot . . . repeat, dare not turn on the1,000-watt Bang&Olufsen stereo.Even if it has 13 speakers.“Let’s not turn on the stereo,”

JR said, and rightly so.Whowantsto listen to Calgary FM stationswhen the Picasso of exhaust notesmassages your very senses.I hadn’t heard anything this

good since I stood next to a rev-ving Alfa RomeoV-12 at the LongBeach Grand Prix, way back in the’80s. The Alfa’s V-12 was still thebest sounding engine of all time,but the Astonwas definitely rightup there.Completing the topless experi-

ence is an almost total lack ofwind buffeting in the cabin area

— credit offered to the designersand engineers at AstonMartin’sGaydon factory.Driving a suggested route

through south Calgary, we quicklyget the feel of this remarkableroadster.Smooth, controlled and just

downright fun to drive(Romanosky was right), drawing

stares whereverit stepped, onecould not helpbut get the im-mense feelingthe Volante waswilling and ea-ger to go faster,if called upon.Sleek and low

to the ground,everythingseemed faster,JR remarked,noting thatsuperlativesalone fell shortin describingthe precise,

exotic feel of this supercar, which,by the way, surrounds you in asea of hand-stitched leather and aluxurious dash layout worthy of aprince.With deference to Calgary’s ex-

pansive web of speed traps, I hadno intention of pushing the V-12anywhere near its lofty comfortzone—which was clearly wellabovemine. Unlike 007, our mis-sion on this day was tomake surewe brought this voluptuous grandtourer back in one piece.Briefly stopping in the com-

munity of Acadia, we snapped afew pictures of the Volante, whichlooked intoxicatingly gorgeousagainst the lush, green back-ground and unmistakable in itsAstonMartin DNA.

Pulling onto the Deerfoot 500for the last leg of our test drive,I tensed upwith concentration,bound and determined to avoid awindshield stone chip— aCalgary souvenir almost as rou-tine and traditional as gettingwhite-hatted at City Hall.No sooner hadwe hit the Deer-

foot, when two rolling tandemtrucks appeared inmy rear-viewmirror. Theywere right smackbehind us and closing fast— andI could already imagine the sprayof gravel if they blew past us.I called on the V-12 for help,

adding an oh-so-slight touch tothe accelerator.In an instant, wewere launched

to safety—without an ounce ofshimmy. A tap of the ventilatedcarbon ceramic brakes, andwe’reback to cruising.Trouble averted.Nowonder the DBS is standard

issue for double-O secret agents.Mission accomplished, our life-

time AstonMartin bucket list nowchecked off, the DBSVolante leftus aglow, andwantingmore . . . asin, more time in the car.It also left us somewhat spoiled.Having tasted such a rare vin-

tage, themixture of imports anddomestics that ply the streets allseem so trite now.Blame it on the wizards of

Gaydon, the AstonMartin mys-tique, or the remarkable sportscar passion of this luxury brand.A downside? Just one . . . the

DBS is available as a 2+2 or witha back shelf. The 2+2 option be-ing completely useless, as no onelarger than a hefty sized cat couldpossibly sit back there.Andwe did turn on the stereo.

It’s great . . . but nowhere near asgreat as that incredible exhaustnote.

vivaciousvolante

refinementmeets excitementin all-newDBS

■ Body:two-door convertible body stylewith 2+2 seatingaluminum, magnesium alloy andcarbon-fibre composite body

■ Roof:motorized retractable, fabric

■ engine:all-alloy, quad overhead cam-shaft, 48-valve, v-12.Front-mid mounted engine, rear-wheel drivemax power: 510 b.h.p. @ 6500r.p.m.max torque: 420 ft.-lbs. @ 5750r.p.m.acceleration: 0-100 km/h in4.3 secondsmax speed: 307 km/h

■ Transmission:rear-mid mounted ‘touchtronic 2’six-speed gearbox with electronicshift-by-wire control, or manual

■ Brakes:dynamic stability Control (dsC)with track modeanti-lock Braking system (aBs)electronic Brakeforce distribution(eBd)emergency Brake assist (eBa)traction control

■ in-car entertainment:Bang & olufsen Beosound dBssound systemwith 13 speakers

Price:■ dBs volante (touchtronic)$325,195

TheSpecs

Thev-12powerplantpurrs so

beautifully,so elegantly. . . onedarenot turnon the . . .1,000wattstereo

photos, Calgary HeraldThe 2010 DBS volante roadster is unmistakable in its astonMartin DNa—stunning on the outside andlavishly equipped on the inside. To start the formidable 510-horsepower v-12 engine, the emotion controlunit (below left) must be inserted into a console slot between the shift buttons.

CALAA716887_1_4

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DRIVING.caL AT E S T N E W S AT C A L G A R Y H E R A L D . C O M / C A R S

EDITOR: DAVE MAKICHUK 403-235-7302 [email protected] FRIDAY, MAY 11, 2012

SECTION F

INSIDE ON THE ROAD: A Datsun meet with a twist Page F2 BRZ: Floats like a butterfl y, stings like a bee Page F7

Memories ofMemories of

GillesR E M E M B E R I N G C A N A D A ’ S L E G E N D I N F O R M U L A O N E

Photos, courtesy, Dave MakichukCanadian Formula One great Gilles Villeneuve would claim six Grand Prix victories in 67 races, before his life was tragically cut short in Belgium at Zolder, in May of 1982.

“Either you drive, or you don’t. I can’t see that there’s anything in between.”

— Gilles Villeneuve

DAVE MAKICHUKCALGARY HERALD

Perched at treacherous Tarzan corner, aim-ing my telephoto lens

down the long straightaway at Zandvoort, the wind-blown seaside Formula One track hosting the 1981 Dutch Grand Prix, it was all too obvious what had happened, and what was going to hap-pen.

Gilles Villeneuve, in his turbo-charged Ferrari, had banged wheels with someone in mid-grid at the start, and was now spinning, bounc-ing and careering in our direction, at a very high rate of speed. At that moment, getting the “great shot” was not as important as surviv-ing, and as Villeneuve’s race

car kept going into the wood chips, there was no choice but to act.

Leaping out of the way, I banged my head on a gigantic telephoto lens held by a Ger-man photographer just above me. He cursed loudly when the camera he was holding smashed into his face. We — an assembly of terrifi ed photog-types — scattered in all directions, as the bright red Ferrari somehow slid to a stop, just short of the tire bar-rier in a huge cloud of dust.

Seconds later, Villeneuve was safely out of the car, the grid had passed, and his banged-up 126C was being hoisted out of trouble by a gigantic crane, positioned at that infamous corner in an-ticipation of carnage.

Such was my heart-pump-ing baptism by fi re, covering the very fi rst F1 race of my career.

SEE GILLES, PAGE F5

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Breaking news at calgaryherald.com Friday, May 21, 2010 F5

Aston’s Rapidehas luxury,looks and

V-12 powerDAVE MAKICHUKCALGARY HERALD

What is it about the en-during mystique of As-ton Martin that seems

to alight the senses and get the blood pumping? Could it be that recognizable Aston DNA and British racing heritage reflected in its sultry curves, toothy grille and winged badge?

Or is it the slick, rapier-like Daniel-Craig-in-a-tuxedo cine-matic good looks, evoking images of classy women, elegant casinos and mysterious secret agents.

Like its supercar competitors, it’s packed with high-tech toys and luxury conveniences, and what can one say about that oh-so-lovely 470-horsepower six-litre V-12 engine and its testosterone-tingling roar — an exquisite piece of engineering worthy of its Le Mans pedigree.

Perhaps it’s all of the above. Then again, maybe it’s like asking Hemingway how he penned The Sun Also Rises, or why Marilyn commanded so much screen pres-ence or why JFK inspired. Partly borne of human inspiration but also that elusive, unknown star quality we can’t quite put our fin-ger on.

It just is, so accept it.This thought came to mind as

my guest co-driver, Andy Gilluley, and I stood in front of a pre-pro-duction Rapide four-door sports car at Aston Martin Calgary — the Alberta stop being just one on its North American tour.

Since it was first teased as a concept at the 2009 Frankfurt Motor Show, the reaction to this car has been unanimous — it’s nothing short of drop-dead gor-geous.

This, on its own, makes it a strong competitor to its main rival, the slightly larger but more bulky Porsche Panamera (fea-tured on Page F9).

A quick tour of the shiny, suave Rapide in Black Onyx paint re-veals it is actually a hatchback, with room in the trunk to store a few small pieces of luggage.

Not surprisingly, Aston designs and sells luggage that’s made to fit the 886 litres of expanded space, that is maximized by lowering

the divider and folding the seats down.

Underneath that gorgeous skin the Rapide is constructed using the carmaker’s extruded alumi-num VH (vertical-horizontal) architecture, providing increased torsional rigidity, better on-road dynamics and overall safety.

Bodywork is a combination of aluminum, steel and composite, with magnesium trunk-lid finish-ers running the width of the car, stainless steel cant rails and zinc hood louvres. The signature grille is also aluminum.

And that Aston badge? It’s made of pewter and enamel, as it has for generations.

Standard Bridgestone Potenza S001 performance tires on 20-inch forged aluminum wheels give the car a bona fide racing stance, and a discreet strip of LED lights run-ning along the edge of the head-light fairing add an elegant touch to the nose.

Flip open the doors, which are conveniently of the “swan wing” variety, and a wealth of luxury is revealed. The seats, dash and door sections are exquisitely trimmed in hand-stitched leather (10 hides are used in each Rapide), while the centre console, set in graphite and ringed with iridium silver, houses the climate and stereo controls, as well as the Aston’s unusual P, R, N and D buttons.

The instrument clusters are also classic Aston, with fine zirconium dials bearing the finish of a top-of-the-line luxury chronometer.

After ogling the interior, Andy and I attempt the back seat test.

At six-foot-one, I find it a bit of a challenge to get in, but once I master the Cirque du Soleil ma-noeuvre (right foot first), it’s not bad at all. Headroom is ample. Legroom, well, not so much. Let’s call it adequate.

Conveniences, on the other hand, are quite stellar. Helping to up the touring experience are dual 6.5-inch LCD Rear Seat En-tertainment (RSE) screens inset into the headrests. The infotain-ment system displays input from a six-DVD changer, MP3 players, games consoles or other auxiliary devices and allows each back seat occupant to watch independently using wireless headphones.

Passengers also have individual entertainment and ventilation controls, much like in a modern airliner.

For his part, Andy, whose stature is more compact, has no problem at all getting in or out, and finds the back seat experience quite royal.

Conclusion: As a four-door sedan, the Rapide would suit the commuting purposes of an urban family, and perhaps even o¦er enough utility for outbound trips of short duration. Without a doubt, kids will get a kick out of the back seat luxury and enter-tainment. Beyond that, it might be a tad confining for passengers of the taller, basketball variety. Then again, this is about looking good and feeling good as you drive up to the country club or the kids’ soccer practise.

From the driver’s seat, the view is much better.

Slide the sapphire crystal Emo-tion Control Unit into the dash, hold it in place and the V-12 bur-bles to life.

The information display above the centre console pops up and a touch of the navigation button reveals our exact location on a brightly lit screen.

“At least you don’t have to be a navy SEAL to use the nav,” remarked Andy, who also com-mented on its placement. “It’s in a

good position — out of the line of sight, but you can see it with one glance.”

All told, the console is nicely designed and laid out — every-thing is within easy reach and markings are intuitive but not overstated.

Other than the habit of con-stantly reaching for a shift lever, which is not there, and the mag-nesium manual shift paddles that get in the way of the turn signal lever, the environment seems to o¦er a nice blend of old-world As-ton and high-tech.

Though it’s a relatively warm spring day in Calgary, the venti-lated seats work nicely, keeping us cool and comfortable as we engage the Driving button, unlock the electronic parking brake and prepare to point the Rapide out on the town.

I find the two tweeter speak-ers (two of 15 speakers mated to the 1,000-watt Bang & Olufsen BeoSound audio system) on either side of the dash, which automatically elevate at startup, a bit distracting, but after a few minutes at the wheel, one forgets they’re there.

In “Normal” or “Sport” mode, the Rapide’s six-speed “Touchtronic 2) transmission works seamlessly, and in concert with, the same V-12 engine that powers the two-door DBS.

Coupled with a standard adap-tive suspension system, it all but guarantees precise control and taut handling. Touch the “Sport” button, and the suspension auto-matically sti¦ens to provide a bet-ter ride on twisty roads, sharpen-ing and shortening the gearshifts and giving the throttle a touch more response.

Not that you really need it. The Rapide’s demeanour is so deceptively relaxed, cornering or cruising at a relatively high speed feels as if you’re barely moving, with little in the way of unwanted body motion. The speedometer, which ends at 330 km/h, is a stark reminder that this is, after all, a supercar.

Andy summed up the ride suc-cinctly: “The first thought is, ‘Wow, it’s very calm’ . . . but it’s not like you have to rein it in. The power is there if you want it. It’s quite civilized.”

Which, by no coincidence, is exactly what Aston Martin engi-neers intended for the first four-door designed by the company in 20 years — the ultimate in a sport-ing, family car, yet still capable of 0 to 100 km/h in 5.1 seconds.

Other observations:

The Rapide is superbly quiet with its double-glazed windows up — creating a soothing cabin experience.

Side mirrors are wisely gener-ous, boosting rearward visibility and making lane changes rela-tively easy in tight tra«c.

Surprisingly, there is no North American-style vanity mirror light on the front passenger side, but there are side-roof mounted dome lights that o¦er ample light for those last-minute makeup touch-ups on the way to the op-era, and yes, it does have cuphold-ers front and back.

Eight airbags and four door-mounted inflatable curtains pro-vide ample safety, and a test of the handy parking distance control system showed why this is an im-portant feature.

Rear-mounted sensors alert the driver to the proximity of objects with beeping sounds — becoming a steady hum when an object is 15 centimetres away.

And as for gas mileage, don’t even ask. It’s a V-12, after all.

The Rapide marks the begin-ning of a new era for the company, as it launches a vehicle it hopes will compete for the deep-pockets crowd with the Panamera and other luxury sedans, and possibly even high-end SUVs.

While the DBS, DB9 and Van-tage, its two-door siblings, are currently built at Aston’s factory in Gaydon, England, and share the same V/H platform, exactly 1,500 Rapides will roll o¦ the line at a new manufacturing plant in Graz, Austria, later this summer.

In Canada, the Rapide will carry an MSRP of $215,000 Cdn.

DRIVING.caT E S T D R I V E : 2 0 1 1 A S T O N M A R T I N R A P I D E

■ Body: Four-door body style with tail-gate and four individual seats. Extruded aluminum bonded body structure.■ Engine: All alloy, quad overhead camshaft, 48-valve, 5.9-L V-12.■ Horsepower: 470-horsepower @ 6,000 r.p.m.■ Torque: 443 ft.-lbs. @ 5,000 r.p.m.■ Acceleration: 0-100 km/h 5 seconds.■ Maximum speed: 296 km/h.■ Transmission: Rear mid-mounted Touchtronic 2 six-speed gearbox with shift-by-wire control system.■ Wheels: 20-inch alloy wheels.■ Tires: front: Bridgestone Potenza 245/40 R20; rear: Bridgestone Potenza 295/35 R20.■ Brakes: Dual-cast brake discs■ Interior: Full grain leather, walnut fas-cia trim, iridium Silver centre console outer finish and Graphite inner finish.■ Entertainment: 1000 watt Bang & Olufsen BeoSound audio system with 15 speakers.

The Specs

The centre console is well laid out. Above right, the Rapide also boasts “swan wing” doors.

Courtesy, Andrew GilluleyThe 2011 Aston Martin Rapide is arguably one of the most beautifully designed vehicles in its class.

Photos, Dave Makichuk, Calgary HeraldBack seat passengers will like the LCD screens inset into the headrests.Below, the Rapide maintains its stunning sleekness, despite its four-door sedan design.

BEAUTY

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Breaking news at calgaryherald.com Friday, September 25, 2009 F5

All-newC8Aileron sportsthe right stuff

Dave Makichukcalgary Herald

Strapping in— no, let me re-phrase that— climbing in tothe Spyker C8 Aileron feels a

little like being a test pilot.Not only does it take a little

practise to squeeze under thosepivoting gull-wing doors, butonce in place, the panel in front ofyou is lined with toggle switchesand aviation-style gauges on aspartan, brushed aluminum dash-board.The leather-lined cabin is cav-

ern-like and tightly enclosed, vis-ibility is aimed at the road ahead,the engine tucked smack right be-hind you— all told, a very seriousenvironment.Ladies and gents, this is not

your uncle’s Sunday driver.That feeling—what serious

drivers call the pucker factor— increases when you begin thestart sequence; flipping up the redguard switch, pushing the ignitionbutton and engaging the auto-matic Sport mode.At this point, andmuch like

a test pilot, you had better getyour seating position right andthemirrors at the perfect angle.Youmight also want to tie yourshoelaces, too, because what youare about to experience is nothinglike any other sports car on theroad.Last week, the Netherlands-

based carmaker brought its firstpre-productionmodel C8 Aileron— yes, you heard right, the oneand only first productionmodelC8 Aileron coupe— toNorthAmerica and Tony Dilawri’sSpyker Calgary dealership for aseries of media test drives.So rawwas this first model, that

some of the fit and finish on thevehicle had not yet been final-ized. By the time this article goesto print, the Aileronwill be fly-ing straight back over the pond,where it will be tested further— the results to be implementedin upcoming productionmodels.While elite carmakers such as

Ferrari, Lamborghini andMase-rati boast decades of sports cartradition, Spyker Cars is fairlynew to the game, but themarqueitself, is not.Founded in 2000 by Victor R.

Muller, its chief executive, SpykerCars draws it name and inspira-tion from the famedDutch carand aircraft company founded byJacobus andHendrik-Jan Spijkerin 1898.Known for its circular radiators,

that firmwould go on to buildsuccessful touring cars and rac-

ers, as well as airplanes and air-plane engines for the FirstWorldWar. After changing ownership itwould run out of money in 1926after producing about 2,000 ve-hicles in total.That same aviation heritage

is overtly reflected in all Spykersports cars, and especially thenewC8Aileron.The first styling cues that catch

one’s eye are the sweeping duct-ing tubes on the roof and sidepanels, which bring cool air to theengine compartment, brakes andcabin.The 19-in. turbine inspired Ro-

torblade wheels are also hard tomiss. Reminiscent of the bladesof a modern jet engine, they carryrace-ready Z-ratedMichelin tires(235/35 up front, 295/30 in back)for optimum handling.The Spyker logo itself also

sports a propeller, and stampedon the exhaust pipes is the Latinmotto of the original car com-pany: “Nulla tenaci invia est via,”which translates to: “For the tena-cious no road is impassable.”Tenacious or not, the Aileron

represents a new direction for theboutique car company.Spyker has refined and dis-

tilled some of the racetrackrawness seen in its other avail-able models, the popular Spyderconvertible and the Laviolettecoupe, and made the Aileronas much an exhilarating dailydriver, as it is a street legal, full-blown sports car.They alsowidened and squared

off the frame and given the all-aluminumbody a stunning newlookwhich, arguably,makes itobscenely noticeablewherever itgoes. Somuch so, in fact, rubber-neckers can pose amenace as theypull up alongside to get a look.But the Aileron is more than

good looks. Beneath that ultra-sporty skin lies a formidable

drivetrain. Amid-mounted 4.2-li-tre Audi V-8 provides 400 h.p.and 354 ft.-lbs. of torque at 7,200r.p.m., providing a top speed of300 km/h and a neck-snapping0-to-100 km/h in 4.5 seconds.Weighing in at about 1,360 ki-

lograms (3,000 lbs.), the Aileronboasts an enviable power-to-weight ratio.The test car was also equipped

with a Tiptronic six-speed auto-matic ZF gearbox, withmanualoverride. (AmanualGetrag six-speed gearbox is also available.)To say this car likes to rev is an

understatement. Merely pullingaway from a light brings amenac-ing roar that telegraphs to everyliving thing within a block thatthis is no ordinary set of wheels.Yet the Aileron is not a wild-

cat that requires a Formula Onedriver to tame it. Spyker appearsto have found the right balance inits newest model.The Tiptronic allows the driver

to sit back and enjoy the sights,sounds and sensations . . . or touse the steering-columnmountedshift paddles.Another Spyker oddity— one

which I’ve never seen in any othercar— is a fully exposed consoleshifter. Instead of hiding the link-age under the console, as in mostother cars, it is exposed and pre-sented in polished silver, addingto the lustre of exclusivity.Where one can’t see brushed

aluminum, every inch of the Aile-ron’s cabin is covered in luxuriousleather fromHulshof Royal DutchTanneries.Fourteen standard colours are

available, but Spyker will alsomake it any colour “if desired bythe customer.”Noticeably absent from the

pre-production car’s cabin wasa dash-mounted stereo. The fol-lowing productionmodels won’thave one either, though it willhave an iPod input, 300-watt ampand a six-speaker Kharma soundsystem. According to the rep, thisis not in keeping with the Spykerdriving experience.To be honest, one would have

to crank it up pretty loud just tomatch the roar of the V-8, whichis packed right behind the driver’sseat. Futuremodels will also fea-ture an in-dash navigation systemand Bluetooth interface.And finally, how does the Ai-

leron perform? Quite simply:superbly.A quick jaunt down toMillar-

ville and back offered a glimpseof the Aileron’s “ready-to-rock”personality.The four-corner, aluminum

wishbone suspension with Eibachsprings and Bilstein shocks keptus glued to the asphalt and in-spired confidence with its preciseresponse on a variety of undulat-ing, twisty roads.Andwhen it came to stopping

that ride— in a hurry— the rock-hard four-piston ventilated discbrakes could seemingly stop atrain. I found them a bit too hardfor my suburban tastes, but I wastold it would probably softened abit in the comingmodels.If Spyker was trying to build a

car that could be equally comfort-able driving to your favourite res-taurant, or give anyone a run forhis money on a race track, then ithas achieved that.It also has a trunk which can

actually hold a few things, includ-ing groceries or a six-pack of Bud-weiser tallboys.And speaking of bringing home

the bacon, youmay bewonder-ing exactly who is the targetmarket for the Aileron. (The au-

tomatic equipped coupe retailsfor $263,000 Cdn, themanual for$252,000)According to company reps, the

typical Spyder customer is worthabout $10million, owns a share inan executive jet and has alreadyhad the red Ferrari, the blackLamborghini and the silver AstonMartin. That same customer, theysay, is looking for something rareand different.No question there: the new

Spyker A8 Aileron screams “vivele difference” at every angle. In-side and out.And going by the looks and

questions we received fromnumerous onlookers, this smallDutch car company could well beonto something.

Driving.caF i r S t g l a n c e : 2 0 1 0 S p y k e r c 8 a i l e r o n c o u p e

TheSpecs

‘Spyke’ of adrenalin

dave Makichuk, calgary HeraldThe aileron’s shift linkage isfully exposed and adds to theinterior’s unusual look.

■ type: advancedmid-engine,two-seat sports car■ Body: Structural aluminumspace frame chassis■ Brakes: Spyker brandedaluminum ap brake calipers(four-piston), ap brake discs,cross-drilled and ventilated;Bosch aBS systemwith eBd■ engine: audi 4.2-litre V-8,40 valve, mid-mounted, multi-point fuel injection systemwithelectronic ignition; 400 h.p.@ 7,200 r.p.m.■ transmission: tiptronic

six-speed automatic ZFgearbox with manual override(automatic transmission), orSynchromesh six-speed trans-axle getrag gearbox (manualtransmission)■ performance: top speed, 300km/h; acceleration 0-100 km/hin 4.5 seconds■ price: Manual, $252,000;automatic $263,000. plusfreight & pdi, $3,000, andtransport canada green levy,$5,000

—courtesy, Spyker

courtesy, Bud Moore photographyThe 2010 c8 Spyker aileronpresents a super-sleek profile onhighway 22, nearMillarville.

dave Makichuk, calgary Herald

dave Makichuk,calgary Herald

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The Hotel Issue: France

MONICA ZUROWSKICALGARY HERALD

In 1927, Charles Lindbergh went to the Hotel Ambassador in Paris to celebrate his historic

trans-Atlantic solo flight.It seems almost surreal that

some 84 years later, I’m sitting in the same hotel lobby, toasting my own trans-Atlantic arrival in the City of Light.

Air travel has, of course, become much more routine in the last eight decades, but one can’t help but be impressed at Lindbergh’s significant event that was cel-ebrated here.

The Hotel Ambassador had just opened that year and each of its 600 rooms had a private bathroom, which was quite the luxury in 1927. It became a destination of choicew for politicians, celebrities, kings and queens, boasting a plush ambi-ence, crystal chandeliers and origi-nal artwork.

“During the 1930s, the Hotel Ambassador was the epitome of

luxury in the finest traditions of the world’s great hotels,” notes the authoritative website Historic Ho-tels of the World Then & Now.

Now operated by the Radisson

Blu Hotel group, recent renova-tions have turned the property into a sparkling display of 1920s

art deco style.Here, you can also forget every-

thing you’ve heard about the size

of Paris hotel rooms. At the Am-bassador, rooms are actually spa-cious with first-rate comforts in-cluding free high-speed Internet, LCD flat-screen TVs and heated towel bars.

In addition to the historic Bar Lindbergh, the hotel is home to a fine dining room (Le 16 Hauss-mann), a first-rate breakfast buf-fet and a top floor lounge, with a view that extends to the Eiffel Tower.

The full name of the property — Radisson Blu Ambassador Hotel, Paris Opera — reflects the fact that the property is only two minutes away from the famous Paris Opera House and the amazing shopping centre Galeries Lafayette. In 20 minutes, you can walk to the Lou-vre and Tuilieres Gardens.

“It’s a great location because you can easily get to so many places from here,” says Elektra Garvie-Adams, who is a local host for Monograms based out of the Ambassador. Monograms’ vaca-tions are quickly becoming popu-lar with independent travellers, because they focus on individual-izing holiday packages for a travel-ler’s budget, time and travel style, while still providing support from a local host.

Courtesy, Radisson Blu The grand entry into the Radisson Blu Ambassador Hotel, Paris Opera.

Perfect place to toast history■ Best amenity: Spacious rooms, considering it is Paris.■ Who would like it here: Travellers who want to be close to the heart of Paris attractions and are also looking for a slightly upscale hotel experience, with plush, modern com-fort.■ One quibble: It took too long for the towel bar to heat up.■ Pricing: Rates for regu-lar room can start at about $290 Cdn. ■ More information: www.radissonblu.com for details while more information on the Mono-grams independent travel program is at www.mono-grams.com .

The detailsRADISSON BLU AMBASSADOR HOTELPARIS, FRANCE

I4 Saturday, October 15, 2011 Breaking news at calgaryherald.com


Wasn’t that Robert de Niro and Gerard Depar-dieu having a heated ar-

gument by the steps of the Hotel du Cap? Yes, it was them.

And I could have swore that was Madonna, in dark glasses, wearing a long, silky red dress, followed by a train of luggage, heading for the cabanas . . . and can you believe the gall of Bruce Willis? Show-ing up with 400 guests for a pool party at the Eden Roc? What was he thinking? It ended at 7 a.m., with someone playing the saxo-phone by the horizon pool.

C’est la vie . . . just another day in the life of the Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc D’Antibes.

Walking into a masterpiece

“Turn right, 300 metres,” the distinctive GPS voice intoned as we turned our steel-grey BMW rental car off the Cote d’Azur and onto Boulevard John F. Kennedy, towards Cap D’Antibes, (pro-nounced, DON-TEEB).

A few kilometres down a nar-row, tree-lined road lay the prom-ise of an unparalleled hotel experi-ence — the legendary Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc — a Napoleon III sanctuary to the stars, royalty, au-thors, the rich and famous — and now, lowly travel writers from Calgary.

Our arrival was understated, but oh so elegant. Mark met us at the front steps, with a smile: “Wel-come to the Hotel Du Cap, I will take your keys and deliver your luggage to your room.”

Ah, service — a nice change from the ultra-touristy establish-ments of Nice.

We meet Gilles Bertolino, the

hotel concierge, and other hotel staff at the front desk. They seem truly glad to know we had a safe drive, and are happy to meet us.

We were whisked to our room on the second floor. Or should I say, palace? Beyond the door is nothing short of jaw-dropping.

Gasping in silence, we tour the two giant high-ceilinged rooms with only one thought: “Some-body, pinch me, for I have walked into a masterpiece.”

It might have been the original artwork adorning the sound-proof walls, the perfectly placed antique Louis XV furniture, the stunning Venetian chandeliers or the elegant draperies, that were so impressive. Or, perhaps it was the two marble bathrooms with “experience showers” (featuring a 32-cm shower head that simulates a soft rain) and a stunning glass-encased mini-bar, complete with natural water bottled at the hotel.

Each room had its own flat-screen TV and the best hotel Wi-Fi signal strength I have yet to encounter. That bit of technology didn’t seem out of place, nor did the remote wand for instant valet and room service.

Large French doors opened to our 50-foot panoramic balcony.

Beyond lay the shimmering, crystal blue waters of the Cote d’Azur, dotted with sailboats competing at the Cannes yacht challenge. Did I mention the champagne, chocolates and fresh cut flowers and fruit?

Mark arrives with our luggage, and I press him with the big ques-tion. Being so close to Cannes, the place must always be filled with

stars for the film festival, “Have you met Brad and Angelina?”

“Why of course,” he answers, as if it were an every-day occur-rence. “They are very nice . . . they will shake hands with anyone.”

A retreat for writers

We are seated in the Hotel du Cap’s famous Bellini bar, with hotel manager Philippe Perd, sip-ping what else, Bellinis.

The peach juice with Cham-pagne goes down well as we are briefed on the hotel’s massive 45 million euro, 27-week renova-tion, which transformed it from a decaying structure, to a gleaming oasis of 67 bedrooms, villas and cabanas.

Originally built in 1870 as a villa for writers to recuperate or redis-cover their muse by Figaro mag-nate Auguste de Villemessant and purchased by the Oetker family in the 1960s, the hotel is now part of the prestigious Masterpiece chain, which includes equally grand sister hotels in Venice, Baden Baden and Paris.

“We wanted to keep the heri-tage, keep the soul of the Hotel du Cap, like it has been for many years,” Perd says. “In a way, the

guests guided the direction of the reno . . . keep in mind, some guests have been coming back ev-ery year, for 40 or 50 years.”

I ask him about Cannes, and the stars which descend every May.

During that time, the hotel is nearly 80 to 90 per cent film in-dustry people.

“The stars come here to be low-key, calm, with good service,” he says, “not accessible and away from the paparazzi, and we try to make it extra special for them.”

Madonna, he tells us, likes the solitude of the hotel’s cabanas, which are perched along the shore, and, offer a basic roof, a dollhouse door, sun, sky and mostly silence.

Movie stars and VIPs

Meeting members of the hotel staff, is not unlike meeting the stars themselves. They have seen it all, and then some.

Actress Elizabeth Taylor was

fond of the hotel, and was often preceded by a truck carrying her suitcases. Famed artist Picasso always came simply dressed, wearing shorts, a sweater, a cap and espadrilles. He helped design the restaurant menu, creating wonderful drawings in a few short seconds.

Japanese director Akira Ku-rosawa, enjoyed strolling the 22-acres of manicured gardens and shaded woodland around the hotel, while famed Nobel Laure-ate, playwright and critic Robert Shaw found inspiration for some of his writings here.

As previously mentioned, de Niro and Depardieu did indeed have a heated exchange, because one hadn’t invited the other to his birthday party, and Die-Hard ac-tor Willis did have a pool party for 100, but showed up with 400.

Yet, the Hotel du Cap is not just about movie stars and VIPs.

I found it to be one of the only hotels that openly, and proudly touts the uniqueness of its staff. Whether it was barman Anthony Ciacia, sommelier Xavier Dinet, cabana manager Giovanni Rizzi or chief concierge Gilles Bertolino, all of whom we had the pleasure of meeting, we were greeted in a manner which befit the luxury and simplicity of a home away from home.

Dinner at theRestaurant Eden-Roc

A tour of the grounds, which included the tennis courts, well-ness centre, exclusive villas and cabanas courtesy affable commu-nications director Valerie Muller, was followed by mid-afternoon Manhattans on the spectacular terrace of the Grill Eden-Roc.

Later that evening, we dined at the famed Restaurant Eden-Roc, as the lights of the French riviera glimmered in the distance.

With entrees starting at around 40 to 50 euro, we chose carefully, opting for the Violet Asparagus with Parmesan Sabayon and Aru-gula Oil as an opener, and, Sea Bass Baked in Egg White and Sea Salt. It did not disappoint.

With the soft musical accompa-niment of the hotel pianist in the background, at least five waiters hovered over us, looking after each aspect of our dinner and drinks, which ended appropri-ately with a well-chosen Cognac.

No wonder the stars like com-ing here!

DAVE MAKICHUK’S STAY AT THE HOTEL DU CAP-EDEN-ROC D’ANTIBES WAS

SPONSORED BY THE OETKER COLLECTION

OF MASTERPIECE HOTELS.

Dave Makichuk, Calgary HeraldRestaurant Eden-Roc overlooks the Mediterranean Sea and at night you can see the twinkling lights of the French Riviera.

More photos at calgaryherald.com/travel

■ Best amenity: The 32-centimetre rain-shower head in the “experience shower.” ■ One quibble: I didn’t get to meet Angelina Jolie.■ Starting price: 490 euro a night.■ Who would like it here: High- rollers and couples wanting to celebrate a special occasion.■ More information: www.hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com ( The Hotel du Cap is closed from mid-Octo-ber to April, every year.)

The details

Jim Makichuk, for the Calgary HeraldSecond-fl oor suite at the Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc D’Antibes.

Jim Makichuk, for the Calgary HeraldThe heated horizon pool is set into the rocks at the edge of the Cote d’Azur.

HOTEL DU CAP EDEN-ROC D’ANTIBES, FRANCE

Walking in theFOOTSTEPS

of STARS

CALGARYHERALD Saturday,March 31, 2007 F5TRAVEL

Variety the spice of life in BuenosAiresDAVEMAKICHUKCALGARYHERALD

Youknowyou’re inBuenosAireswhen . . . you crawl back toyourhotel roomaround 5 a.m., after an

eveningof unforgettable tango, superbwine and thebest steakyou’ve everhadinyour life—only tohear someonestaggerup tohis room afteryou.Such is the seduction, themagic and

the attraction of this amazingArgen-tine city—a seemingly endless sea ofcafes, restaurants and shopping, artgalleries and sporting events, and anexchange rate of about three pesos toeveryCanadian dollar.A placewhere theweather is fine,

the people are friendly, and touristbargains abound as this nation recov-ers from a currencymeltdown. Forthose daring enough to savourwhatBuenosAires has to offer, what followsismy top 10 things to do:

The tangoIt takes two to tango. That saying

cannot really be appreciated until yousee this incredibly sensuousmovingfeast for the eyes in SanTelmo, thebirthplace of passionate dance.Tango is everywhere inBuenosAires.

I chosequaintBarSur inhistorical SanTelmo for anevening’s entertainment.Famous for its surprisingly small, butauthentic bar roomambience, and itsstarry clientele—suchasAntonioBan-deras—about $55will get youadrinks,dinner anda front-rowseat to someofthemost best tango in the city.Bar Sur also boasts renowned tango

singer RubenGuerra, whoseVegas-like audience rapport and energizedperformanceswill give you an appre-ciation for thismusical art form. (BarSur, EstadosUnidos 299, Tel. 011/4362-6086, reservations recommended.)

ParrillaWhatcanonesayaboutArgentine

beef except that it’s superb.And forvisi-tors toBuenosAires, it is incrediblycheap.DinneratoneofBuenosAiresfamedparrilla (pronounced“pareesha”)restaurants,might run $15 to $25Cdn,dependingon thenumberof courses.Parilla essentially translates as, “on

the grill,” and steaks that are cookedthisway aremouth-wateringly deli-cious and always servedwith a garlicchimichurri dipping sauce.AtDe LaTerraza restaurant in

trendy PalermoViejo, I savoured asucculent appetizer of fresh chorizosausages, followed by an expertly pre-pared garden salad and a tender cut of“befe de lomo,”which excelledwitheach bite.If you find you’re dining alone at

7 p.m., that’s because Los Portenos(BuenosAireans) typically don’t dineuntil after nine. Youmight also findyourself gravitating to another table—owner Sergio Rosenfeld invitedme tosavour a spectacularMendozaMalbecwine and to learn about Canada. (DeLaTerraza Parrilla andVineria, 1824Gurruchaga, Tel. 011/4831-3119.)

SoccerTheArgentines play soccer like

AC/DC’sAngusYoungplays guitar—seriously andwith style. In pouringrain atRiver Plate’sMonumental Sta-dium, I savoured the game, themusic,the flares, the smoke bombs, the infec-tious drumming, singing and generalmayhem—in short, the other-worldlyexperience of a SouthAmerican soccermatch, and lived to tell about it. RiverPlate 5, Lorenzo0— five superb goals,and, a Pele-style bicycle kick, to boot.For a soccer fan, itwas pure heaven.Unfortunately, Argentine soccer is

in a bit of disarray. Fan violence andgang activity have forced cancella-tions. Should you decide to go to aleague game at either River or LaBoca, there is only oneway to do it.Ask your hotel desk to arrange a soc-cer tour— for approximately 150 pe-sos ($60Cdn), a reputable guidewillpick you up at your hotel, take you tothe stadium and deliver you to yourseat. The guidewill staywithin closerange throughout and return you toyour hotel in one piece.

PlazaDorregoWhile Plaza deMayo is perhaps the

most famous square in this city of2.7million people, and often a site for

various political protests, in the heartof SanTelmo there is awonderful is-land of solitude called PlazaDorrego.BuenosAires is famed for its plazas

and cafe culture, and PlazaDorrego isa fine example. Cobblestone streets,antique shops, patio restaurantswithrefreshingQuilmes beer, pizza to diefor, top-rate peoplewatching and—the piece de resistance— the excep-tional guitar playing of renownedAr-gentine streetmusicianManuel,whose renditions of popular songswill keep you in your chair for hours.After lunch, take a stroll on nearby

AvenueDefensa, where youwill finddozens of antique shops.

Art galleriesThe statelyMuseoNacional de Bel-

las Arts is located on busyAvenidaDelLibertador and presents a formidablecollection ofworld-class artwork.Among themanymasterpieces on

display are pricelessworks byDegas,VanGogh, Picasso, Goya,Monet,Renoir and,my favourite, Gaugin.(1473Avenida Libertador, Tel.011/4803-0802.)

Recoleta CemeteryArgentina’s grandand storiedhistory

is best viewedby taking awalking tour

of the expansiveRecoletaCemetery.Novisit toBuenosAireswouldbe

completewithout exploring thepas-sageways andapproximately 4,800 stat-uesquevaults,whichhouse the rich andfamous, aswell as ahealthypopulationof cemetery cats. Politicians,militaryleaders, explorers,writers andpriests.Anyonewho’s anyone is buriedhere,andoften in grand style.The cost to be buried in such digs:

about $10,000Cdn.Of course, everyvisitor is inevitably drawn to one par-ticular vault— that ofMaria EvaDuarte de Peron, better known asEvita, the former first lady. For a smalldonation, buy amap to the graves atthe entrance because youwill need itto find yourway around.

ConcertsBA’s famedTeatroColon opera

house is, unfortunately, closed for ren-ovations, but concert-goers have an al-ternative. TheUniversity of BuenosAires offers spectacular concertos forthe donation of a fewmere pesos atthe stately faculty of law building oncampus. The building is an impressivework of architecture on its own. I hadthe good fortune to hearUof B stu-dents performorchestral works fromPuccini andTchaikovsky.

The highlight of the eveningwasup-and-coming sopranoMaria del Ro-cioGiordano—who, in a glitteringblue gown, stunned the packed audi-encewithmemorable andmoving op-eratic pieces fromCarmen. (Informa-tion, Tel. 011/4809-5649.)

Eva PeronTheMuseo Eva Peron is another

must-see. Seldomhas a political figurebeen so controversial, so talked about,so fought over, even to this day. Re-gardless of howone feels about Evita’spolitical heritage, which has undoubt-edly polarized large segments of Ar-gentine society, one can’t help bemes-merized by her legend.Located in upscale Botanico, the

three-storeymansion features variousmemorabilia, photos and videofootage, which documents her risefrommagazinemodel to PresidentJuan Peron’s first lady. Evita’s suddendeath in 1952 from cancer shocked thenation.What happened to hermum-mified body from that point on is in-triguing and bizarre—a story that,oncewitnessed, never quite leavesyou. (Museo Eva Peron, Lafinur 2988,Tel. 011/4807-9433.)

El AteneoGrandSplendidLeave it to theArgentines to trans-

form a historic cinema into an elegantbookstore. Even if you don’t care forbooks, youmust see this innovativebusiness, which carries books andmu-sic floor to ceiling, operatic-like bal-cony boxes for reading in private andan onstage cafe. I loaded up on tangoCDs at $7 apiece. (Avenida Santa Fe1880, Tel. 011/4813-6052.)

Jardin JapaneseGardenThe JapaneseGarden, located in the

trendy Palermo, is a great spot to kickback and relax. There is no betterplace for an afternoon of reading,basking in the sun, or to just enjoy thebeautiful gardens, arched bridges andfeed schools ofmulti-coloured fish.Entrance is three pesos, or about $1

Cdn. (AvenidaCasares andAvenidaAdolfo Berro, Tel. 011/4804-4922.)

Photos, DaveMakichuk, CalgaryHeraldTourists are drawn toRecoleta cemetery,where Eva Peron rests.

RenownedArgentine streetmusicianManuel entertains dailyat PlazaDorrego in SanTelmo.

European-style cafes are found justabout anywhere in BuenosAires.

If YouGo■Transportation: Getting aroundBuenosAires is easy and cheap. A cabride to just about anywherewill run you$5 to $10Cdn., but buckle up for theride of your life. At times youmay feelas though you’ve entered a car rally.BA’s dependable Subte, or subway sys-tem, is even cheaper, efficient and gen-erally safe.■Where to Stay: TheChe LuluGuestHouse in PalermoSoho offers awon-derfulmix of hotel and hostel, at a greatvalue and allwithinwalking distance ofsomeof the city’s finest restaurants,bars and shopping. Rooms range fromabout $20 to $50Cdn.(www.luluguest-house.com, or 011/4772-0289).■Airlines: Continental Airlines offersregular and efficient service viaHous-ton,with a no-hassle connection.

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Breaking news at calgaryherald.com Saturday, April 10, 2010 F5TRAVEL


Ask average tourists what they did on their recent trip to Los Angeles, and they’ll

usually tell you the same thing — a visit to a theme park like Dis-neyland or Universal, the famous handprints of the stars at Grau-man’s Chinese Theater, or perhaps Venice Beach.

All great places to see, mind you, but there’s so much more to the City of Angels than these big draws, especially if you’re a movie or television bu , enjoy great local food or just want to soak up some culture. For your next trip, con-sider straying o the beaten path with an o beat L.A. tour.

Philippe’s French Dip Restaurant

A visit to L.A. would not be complete without a stop at Philippe’s. Not far from the edge of Chinatown, where the fi nal scenes of Roman Polanski’s 1974 fi lm of the same name were shot, the self-described home of the French dip sandwich is a treat.

Stepping into the confi nes of this venerable establishment is nothing short of a journey into a bygone era, where the price of cof-fee remains at 9 cents, the coun-ter girls still dress in 1940s-style uniforms and the clientele is a refreshing cross-section of Angeli-nos. Think homeless people, cops, lawyers, movers and shakers. Bypass the breakfast menu and go straight for your preference of beef, ham, pork, lamb or turkey dip sandwich — all accompanied by Philippe’s special hot mustard.

Philippes.com

UCLA Campus BookstoreCare for a bit of cool shopping?

Head to Westwood and drive straight into the main entrance of the UCLA campus. At the end of Westwood Boulevard is a visi-tor’s parking garage on your left with nominal rates. Step onto the

campus and ask anyone where the bookstore is. It’s a short, brisk walk to a main central building, which houses a massive fl oor of USC and UCLA-themed mer-chandise that has to be seen to be believed. Here you’ll fi nd myriad clothing and souvenirs, perfect for gifts, or treat yourself. Two fl oors above, there’s also a food court with open-air dining areas.

Shop.uclastore.com

Chili John’s RestaurantLove authentic chili? Care to

rub shoulders with locals and the occasional Disney animator? You won’t fi nd a better bowl of chili or more friendly service in a cool diner setting anywhere in SoCal than Chili John’s in Burbank.

In fact, LA Weekly has rated it among its top restaurants to eat in before you die. Just be careful when you choose your level of spiciness, and ask for an Arnold Palmer to wash it down.

2018 West Burbank Boulevard

Three Stooges StepsFans of the Three Stooges will

thoroughly enjoy this trip back in time. I speak, of course, of one of the most hallowed, and remark-ably preserved, fi lm locations in Stoogedom: the famed Three Stooges steps. Essentially, it’s where one of the most famous Stooges episodes was shot.

The episode (1941’s An Ache in Every Stake) where Curly at-tempts to carry blocks of ice up a long fl ight of concrete stairs to an impatient customer, only to fi nd the ice melted down to a cube when he reaches the top.

The location is hard to fi nd. It sits at the end of a cul-de-sac in Silverlake, between 2257 and 2258 Fair Oak View Terrace. A GPS will prove handy here. But once there, you can, as some Stooge fans have done, bring along a set of ice tongs and Styrofoam ice blocks, and at-tempt the same poses as the com-edy trio. Neighbours are generally OK with it all, but please, no pie

throwing.

94th Aero Squadron Restaurant

One of the best ways to spend a relaxing afternoon is to head over to Van Nuys airport for a landing at the 94th Aero Squadron Restau-rant. On arrival, the extravagant World War One-themed aviation decor will prompt you to pull out your digital camera, but it’s best to walk through the place and grab a seat on the open-air terrace. The restaurant is located adjacent to one of the busiest runways in the world where you can sit in the shade enjoying lunch or dinner, an Irish co ee or cold beer, watch-ing aircraft — some belonging to the stars — land and take o . Bil-lionaire recluse Howard Hughes fl ew out of Van Nuys, and John Travolta keeps some of his aircraft there.

By the way, some of the scenes from Casablanca, starring Hum-phrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman,

were fi lmed at this airport, which o ers historical tours.

The94thsquadron.com and lawa.org/welcomeVNY.aspx

Vasquez RocksWhat Trekkie would not want to

release his inner Kirk and explore the otherworldly Vasquez Rocks — site of one of the most famous Star Trek episodes, “Arena,” where Capt. Kirk (William Shatner) battles and defeats the reptilian Gorn creature.

Vasquez Rocks Natural Area Park is located about 50 kilome-tres north of L.A., o Hwy. 14.

The strange, unearthly look-ing formations have been used numerous times in fi lm, television and countless magazine ads, and chances are you will see a fi lm truck there. Look carefully for the o -ramp sign — it’s quite small and easy to miss. Admission to the park is free. On the way back, stop at nearby Agua Dulce Winery for a refreshing wine tasting.

Santaclaritaguide.com/vasquez-

rocks.html and aguadulcevine-yards.com

Chez JaysMost tourists who walk the

Santa Monica Pier are probably not aware that just down the street at 1657 Ocean Avenue is a fabu-lous, 1960s-era bar called Chez Jays, one of the most famous living landmarks in Rat Pack history. Yes, Frank Sinatra and the boys used to hang here, along with ac-tresses and astronauts.

In fact, astronaut Alan Shepherd took one of the peanuts from Jay Fiondella’s bar to the moon and back. It’s also rumoured a certain Hollywood actress could be seen in one of the booths, waiting for a phone call, then leave to meet none other than JFK for a secret rendezvous. Jay passed away at 82 not long ago, and a lot of history went with him, but the bar still serves up great steaks and beer.

Chezjays.com

[email protected]

From great chilito Capt. Kirk

Photos, courtesy Jim Makichuk, Badland Pictures

Clockwise from top: Chili John’s restaurant in Burbank is popular with locals; the famed Three Stooges Steps; and the viewing terrace at Van Nuys airport’s 94th Aero Squadron Restaurant.

S O U T H E R N C A L I F O R N I A : O F F B E A T L . A .

For more photos and offbeat L.A. sugges-tions, go to calgaryher-ald.com/travel

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Dave Makichuk's portfolio

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