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Daikanyama & Ebisu

eat drink

1. chano-ma nakameguro kangyo build- ing • 1-22-4 kami-meguro, meguro-ku • 81.3.3792.9898 creative types claim tables for two or camp out on the wide, continuous daybed that runs along one wall of the trapezoid-shaped room. round trays stabi-lize dishes of updated japanese comfort food from lunchtime until late. opt for dessert and tea with the lunch set—the pumpkin cake and parfait divine.

2. afuri ramen 1-1-7 ebisu, shibuya-ku • 81.3

.5795.0750 ~ ramen is to tokyo what pizza is to new york city: a hot-button topic that often boils down to water. all three loca-tions of this popular mini chain swear by h20 from the wells of mt. afuri in kanagawa. pick and pay for a bowl using the picture menu on the vending machine, hand the ticket to the chef and then join the best-noodle-bar-in-town debate inevitably in full swing at the bar.

3. ivy place tyharborbrewing.co.jp/

en/ivy • 16-15 sarugakucho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.6415.3232

witness how japan does a better take on american comfort food than america does. at this beau-tiful bar-cafe-restaurant in the daikanyama t-site, you can eat buttermilk pancakes topped with acacia honey or return later for a pint from tokyo’s t.y. harbor brewery, modeled after, yes, cali-fornia microbreweries.

4. hacidenda del cielo modern-mexicano.jp/hacienda • mansard daikanyama • 10-1

sarugakucho, shibuya-ku • 81

.03.5457.1521 ~ not every evening in tokyo ends soaked in sapporo and sake. a mexico-themed res-taurant and lounge serving tacos al pastor, ceviche and stiff frozen margaritas on the patio makes for a trip within a trip. say hola to tokyo from the ninth floor.

photo: food image courtesy of flickr photo: courtesy of ivy place photo: courtesy of huge

downhill from the heart of shibuya, things get low key in daikanyama. artisanal coffee joints, indie shops and the can't-miss tsutaya books dot residential blocks. ebisu is maze of little boutiques,

bars and smoky izakaya along the meguro river—perfect for a fun night out.

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Daikanyama & Ebisu

5. tsutaya books t-site.jp/daikanyama • 17-5

sarugakucho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.3770.2525 ~ a new media compound from mega book-seller tsutaya. get lost for hours milling about three buildings and a multi-use courtyard. break for a starbucks coffee, muji snack or a breather in one of the many smart-looking seating areas.

6. bonjour records bonjour.jp • 24-1 sarugaku-cho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5458

.6020 ~ for the person whose devout attention to the obscure, independently published arts ‘zine can only be rattled bythe realization that either the limited-edition vinyl needs to be flipped or the artisan coffee has run dry, this fashionable record and men’s shop is a must.

7. ebisu yokocho 1-7-4 ebisu, shibuya-ku it doesn’t look like much from the street. but once inside, this after work and late-night dining destination reveals itself to be a revelrous winding food hall showcasing regional dishes from across the country. grab frosty mugs of lemon shochu cocktails and take a table in the aisle where you can dig into all sorts of small plates from onigiri and sushi to yakisoba and steak.

8. claska hotel claska.com/en/hotel • 1-3-18

chuo-cho, meguro-ku • 81

.3.3719.8121 ~ rooms that run the style gamut from japanese modern to tatami, and some that are designed to be weekly resi-dences make for a beyond-cool boutique hotel. the gallery and gift shop on the second floor, has a little nationally sourced something for everyone. the rooftop deck, lobby bar and res-taurant more than make up for the slightly out-of-the-way locale.

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photo: courtesy of claskaphoto: flickr/hazuijunpei

while you 're hereexploreshop

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Ginza & Marunouchi

eat drink sleep

1. kyubey kyubey.jp • 8-7-6 ginza, chuo-ku • 81.3.3571.6523 ~ 80-year-old stalwart equals big-deal sushi dinner. like all high-end sushiya, each piece is made individu-ally and served with reverence. chew slowly and nod vigorously as your conception of sushi is al-tered forever. the omakase clocks in at $100, a steal compared to the famous jiro.

2. mikimoto lounge mikimoto.com • 2-4-12 ginza, chuo-ku • 81.3.3562.3134 ~ a very ladylike dessert-and-tea lounge on the third floor of the ginza 2 building (also known as "the swiss cheese building” for obvi-ous reasons). order a passion fruit parfait and the orchid tea, a delicacy nearly as rare as the pearly wares downstairs.

3. star bar starbar.jp • sankosha build-ing, b 1f • 1-5-13 ginza, chuo-ku • 81.3.3535.8005 ~ a sub- terranean speakeasy-like spot with a no standing policy (go early), a clubby and cozy ambi-ence and bow-tied bartenders mixing seriously good drinks. the sidecar is the signature, but they’ll execute any order to perfection.

4. mandarin oriental, tokyo mandarinoriental.com/tokyo • 2-1-1 nihonbashi muromachi, chuo-ku • 81.3.3270.8800

darkly elegant interiors designed by famous japanese textile designer reiko sudo and rooms equipped with aromatic room oils and binoculars for spying on mt. fujii. (the hotel starts on the 30th floor which makes for gape-worthy views.) to note: dim sum brunch at its michelin-starred restaurant sense books up weeks in advance.

photo: courtesy of mikimotophoto: courtesy of kyubey

venture to glitzy ginza to understand the city’s twin obsessions: shopping (big-name labels in flashy buildings) and food (in sprawling subterranean food halls). the once-quiet banking district of marunouchi, centered around tokyo station, is now an equally posh retail destination flanked by fancy hotels.

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Ginza & Marunouchi

5. palace hotel tokyo en.palacehoteltokyo.com • 1-1-1 marunouchi, chiyoda-ku • 81.3.3211.5211 ~ a new reno-vation puts this hotel on par with the city’s top-tier stays. some perks: the imperial palace gardens next door can be appre-ciated from room balconies (a true tokyo rarity), soft pajamas laid out at bedtime and a swim-ming pool for jet-lag recovery.

6. mitsukoshi department store mitsukoshi.mistore.jp.e.ki .hp.transer.com • 1-4-1 nihon-bashi muromachi, chuo-ku • 81.3.3241.3311 ~ pass between two bronze lions to enter one of japan’s oldest and grandest department stores. head to the basement to witness row after row of food stalls offering every edible imagined, all immacu-lately, if at times mysteriously, presented. a great spot to pick up gifts like cherry blossom tea cakes.

7. dover street market ginza.doverstreetmarket.com • 6-9-5 ginza, chuo-ku • 81.3.6228.5080 ~ comme des garçons’ rei kawakubo takes the concept shop to wonderfully strange new heights (seven sto-ries of it, in fact). shopping feels more like exploring an avant-garde fashion museum.

8. tsukiji fish market tsukiji-market.or.jp • 5-2-1

tsukiji , chuo-ko • 81.3.3542.111

the stuff of legends. wake before the sun comes up to see chefs from near and far bid on the catch of the day followed by a fresh fish feast for breakfast. only 120 people are allowed in each morning. if you make the trip but miss the cut-off, wait on line at the perpetually mobbed sushi dai or daiwa-zushi, both in row six inside the open air wholesale market.

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Harajuku & Aoyamatree-lined omotesando avenue has wildly designed contemporary buildings vying for attention. the low-lying shops and cafes of chichi aoyama are tucked away on side streets. cat street may

as well be called cat walk—it’s here where you’ll find tokyo’s legendary street style.

eat

1. a to z cafe 5-8-3 minami-aoyama 5f, minato-ku • 81.3.5464.0281

the white-washed rustic cafe collaboration between artist yoshitomo nara and graf design firm is practically hidden on the fifth floor of a back street office building. order a lunch set (a su-per deal for 1000 yen) and peer into the windows of the club house constructed in the center of the room. note the collage-like details of nara’s workshop installation.

2. cocongo 2-31-9 j ingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.3475.8980 ~ pop down the alley just around the corner from the united arrows in hara-juku. if you see a goat wearing tribal beads, then you’re in luck: the curry spot is open. a laid back danish modern design sen-sibility coupled with ‘70s african flair and meals that easily last hours make this place feel less like a restaurant and more like a beatnik lair.

3. lapaz lapaz.tokyo.com • 2-22-2

jingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3

.6438.9624 ~ act like a local and settle in for an afternoon at this cafe, mercantile and event space. go for coffee, tea and baked goods, or take the medi-terranean sandwiches, salads and pasta route. either way, end up on a couch and take advan-tage of wi-fi in the sunny back room. pick up chocolates, statio-nery, candles or other gifty items on the way out.

4. tas yard tasyard.com • 3-3-14 sendaga-ya, shibuya-ku • 81.3.3470.3940 a destination cafe and garden shop where the rustic plates and desserts are as much of a draw as the pop-up shop/outdoor hut for wood carving workshops and rosette making. after coffee, cruise over to nearby playmoun-tain, another beacon of post-modern japanese lifestyle from landscape products, ltd.

photo: courtesy of jellyfish.bz

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Harajuku & Aoyama

5. montoak montoak.com • 6-1-9 jingu-mae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5468

.5928 ~ a cushy, just-retro-enough lounge and restaurant where tired feet can retreat after a day of pounding the omote-sando pavement. early diners tuck into bento boxes and bagna cauda while the late shift comes for champagne cocktails and a slice of chiffon cake.

6. green smoothie stand 1f 6-5-6 j ingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5467.8284 ~ an oasis of freshness on the border of roppongi and harajuku, and a rejuvenating alternative to the savory and sweet munchies that overrun the streets. the freshly juiced veggie and fruit beverag-es, smoothies and vegan and raw food snacks can’t be beat.

7. le baron de paris lebaron.jp.en • aoyama cen-ter building • 3-8-40 minami-aoyama, minato-ku • 81.3.3408

.3665 ~ the payoff for walking down this dark alley is interna-tional impresario andré saraiva’s parisian import which often plays host to magazine parties and launch events—so give the calendar a glance before head-ing over. to be expected, sharp dressers have a good shot at get-ting in the door.

8. streamer coffee company streamercoffee.com • 3-28

-19 jingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5772.6633 ~ do not let the extreme latte art distract from the matter at hand: award-winning baristas serve espresso shots poured in milky lattes alongside donuts iced with at-titude. (the camouflage designs are referred to as “military donuts”.) this elevated shop in harajuku is easier to find than the omotesando location, which is on a residential side street.

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photo: courtesy of montaok.com courtesy of green smoothie stand photo: courtesy of le baron de paris

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9. the little shop of flowers thelittleshopofflowers.jp • 6-31-10 jingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5778.3052 ~ a neighbor- hood gem known for textural ar- rangements in unexpected color combinations. take home a free- form collage made of dried flow- ers and specially preserved flora. it's open only friday, saturday and sunday: visit the shop-in-shop in beauty & youth united arrows on the other days of the week.

10. vacant 3-20-13 j ingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.6459.2962 ~ orchestrated by no idea, an events group known for curating arts, music and cultural happenings. the first floor is a mish-mash cafe and curio shop. there’s usually something worth investigating on the second—like an installa-tion, performance or party.

11. d-mall 2-27-6 j ingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3.6863.7500 ~ when life requires that you wear stripe shirts and loose-fitting premium denim, pack some snacks into primary-colored canvas totes and carry a few delicately illus-trated books, this is your shop.

12. kate spade new york 5-2-12 r2-a minami, minato-ku

• 81.3.5468.8161 ~ a happy burst of style and cheer. pop into the tokyo flagship (one of 14 loca-tions throughout the city) and down the gold hallway to peruse ready-to-wear, accessories and more under the twinkly star-burst chandeliers.

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13. reaulii reauli i .com • arrow pla-za harajuku 114 • 4-19-8 j ingumae, shibuya-ku • 81.3

.6804.2986 ~ an of-the-moment art form, personalized piece of pop culture and two hour beau-ty service all in one. the inspired and attentive nail artists design wild-style manicures based on client preferences and what-ever’s in fashion at the time. the best fleeting souvenir we’ve found.

14. nicolai bergmann flowers & design nicolaibergmann.co.jp • 5-7-

2 minami-aoyama, minato-ku • 81.3.5464.0743 ~ a mash-up of the two most design-obsessed cultures (denmark, japan)makes this flower shop ultrachic. lush greenery spills over into the adjoining cafe where hip moms and their toddlers nibble on salad arrangements (organic roasted chicken, persimmons, danish blue cheese). flower ar-ranging classes are also offered, but alas, only in japanese.

15. nezu museum nezu-muse.or.jp • 6-5-1

minami-aoyama, minato-ku • 81.3.3400.2536 ~ small and exquisite. an adjoining japanese garden offers a peaceful oasis at the end of the hectic omote-sando. the building’s sleek lines contrast nicely with the centuries-old treasures within (like bronze vessels that date back to the 13th century b.c.). recharge with baumkuchen cake and espresso at the glass-walled cafe hidden in the garden.

16. park hyatt tokyo tokyo.park.hyatt.com • 3-7-1-2

nishi-shinjuku, shinjuku-ku • 81.3.5322.1234 ~ when yen is no object, reserve a sumptuous suite in this skyrise high above shinjuku. long after stealing the show in lost in translation, bold- face names continue check-ing in and out for their stay in tokyo. take in the scene at either of the two bars—new york or peak—while sipping expertly crafted cocktails and snacking from silver bowls of rice crackers and mixed nuts.

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photo: courtesy of park hyatt tokyo

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Roppongi

eat drink sleep

1. momodori roppongi hills • b2f 6-4-1 roppongi, minato-ku • 81.33

.5413.6886 ~ enter only when you're ready to grub at the ya-kitori joint at the bottom of the massive roppongi hills shopping complex. a mob of friendly, grill-happy young men in hachimaki (traditional headbands symboliz-ing determination) sling skew-ers of all kinds (meat, chicken, seafood, veggies) and keep the cold beer coming.

2. honmura an honmuraantokyo.com • 7-14-18 roppongi, minato-ku • 81.3.5772.6657 ~ at this michelin-starred soba spot you can go classic—cold buckwheat noodles with sesame dipping sauce—or go long with an eight-course tasting menu that might include shrimp custard and poached oysters.

3. serendipity bar serendipitybar.com • rop-pongi dione building • 4-1-12

roppongi, minato-ku • 81.3

.6277.7151 ~ mojitos pop up in the most unexpected places includ-ing this underground speakeasy/cocktail bar in crazy-packed rop-pongi crossing. here, the south american beverage is made with yuzu, shiso leaves and two types of rum. even small parties make reservations in advance but try your luck by announcing your arrival over the intercom at the entrance, crossing your fingers and hoping you get buzzed in.

4. grand hyatt tokyo.grand.hyatt.jp • 6-10

-3 roppongi, minato-ku •

81.03.4333.1234 ~ while consid-ered the laidback counterpart to its sleek sister property in shinjuku, the 53-story hotel anchors the action of roppongi hills. start the day at the indoor pool, tour nearby mori art muse-um and the tokyo tower grounds and end up at the oak room for a drink or late-night bite.

photo: courtesy of bento.com photo: courtesy of serendipity bar photo: courtesy of grand hyatt

the red light district was a foreigner's best frienemy after dark until new real estate developments like roppongi hills and tokyo midtown started to draw good folks in to experience the art museums, galleries,

restaurants, spas and shopping in broad dayight.

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Roppongi

5. hotel okura hotelokura.co.jp/tokyo • 2-10-4 toranomon, minato-ku • 81.3.3582.0111 ~ looks-wise, not much has changed since the hotel group opened its original location just outside the tony ginza district in 1962—the expansive, wood and gold lobby, warmly lit with mod paper lanterns, is just so cool. guest rooms have a bit of euro influence, but the dining op-tions and spa floor are distinctly japanese.

6. muji 9-7-3 akasaka, minato-ku • 81.3.5413.3771 ~ the brand made famous by being brandless ap-plies its philosophy of simplic-ity as easily to office supplies and utilitarian housewares as it does to clothing and food. while stores big and small (some with their own cafes) can be merely happened upon, head to this one. yurakucho is the largest of them all.

7. restir restir.com • 9-7-4 akasaka, minato-ku • 81.3.5413.3708 all of the futuristic gizmos, niche beauty products and col-lectible fashion and art one-offs you expect from japan fill the first floor. file past the dj booth and head upstairs for the feast of deftly curated men’s and women’s designer labels.

8. mori art museum mori.art.museum • 53f rop-pongi hills mori tower • 6-10-1 roppongi, minato-ku

• 81.3.5777.8600 ~ on the 53rd floor of the mori tower in the roppongi hills complex, the views are staggering and the exhibits are scintillating. think blockbuster ai weiwei and the work of danish sound artist jacob kirkegaard. note: it will be temporarily closed for renova-tions in early 2015.

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photo: courtesy of restir photo: courtesy of moro art museumphoto: courtesy of hotel okura

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Shibuya

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1. izakaya go-one 11-11 udagawa-cho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5728.8408 ~ whether crammed in at the bar or tucked into a tatami room in the back, the friendly cooks deliver the authentic izakaya experience you’ve always dreamed of (in-dulge in the sashimi and tempu-ra.) this hole in the wall is tough to find but worth every baffling wrong turn. the best we can do: just north of tokyu hands there’s a 7-11; look for the alley en-trance directly across the street, then head up hill. the restaurant entrance is on your right. gan-batte! (translation: good luck.)

2. shibuya granbell hotel 15-17 sakuragaoka-cho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5457.2681

a design-driven hotel conve-niently located a few blocks from hatchiko station. splashy pop art punches up otherwise minimal-ist but comfortable rooms. from singles to suites, reasonable rates only add to its appeal.

3. cerulean tower tokyu hotel ceruleantower-hotel.com/

en • 26-1 sakuragaokacho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.3476-3000

contemporary rooms with stylish details and thoughtful ameni-ties give this no-brainer business hotel more style and personality than one might expect. floors 19-40 deliver the added bonus of sweeping, unobstructed views. domo arigato.

4. jack spade 103 kawai building • 1-17-9

jinnan, shibuya-ku • 81.3.3780

.6860 ~ dashing fellows with a penchant for sturdy carryalls, outdoorsmen who see the merits of carrying a wallet and fans of collegiate americana all know to look for the grey herringbone facade in shibuya. it’s a gateway to a handsome accoutrement. or two. or three.

photo: courtesy of granbell hotel photo: courtesy of tokyu hotels photo: courtesy of jack spade

prepare for sensory overload: shibuya covers a lot of ground, including the famous shopping district that shares its name. at its heart: the scramble, an enormousintersection that makes nyc's times square look sleepy. bright lights, big city, indeed.

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Shibuya

5. today 's special todaysspecial.jp • 4f, shibuya hikarie shinqs, 2-21-1 shibuya • 81.3.6434.1671 this concept shop from local design heavyweight cibone is the latest destination for inspired housewares, acces-sories and tools for everyday living. take tea or a bite of sea-sonal fare at today’s table on the third floor, or take home pack-aged specialty foods.

6. shibuya 109 shibuya 109 .jp/en • 2-29-1

dogenzaka, shibuya-ku • 81.3

.3477.5111 ~ to see where trends are born, brace yourself and head to ichi-maru-kyu. just over 100 trendy brands fill ten sto-ries—each with its own team of sales girls fully committed to a head-to-toe look (think back-up dancer, country romantic, mountaineer). all compete for the attention of thousands of high schoolers who come for the fashion frenzy each day.

7. tokyu hands tokyu-hands.co.jp/foreign .html • 12-18 udagawacho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.5489.5111 a mecca for diy-ers and hob-byists, floors are organized by interests: stationery (decorative masking tape has its own sec-tion), only-in-japan grooming goods, kitchen tools and out-door supplies. those with an af-finity for quirky paper ephemera might not make it past the free hint file pamphlets (step-by-step mini guides on everything from proper tooth brushing to bal-loon animal design).

8. meiji shrine 1-1 yoyogi-kamizono-cho, shibuya-ku • 81.3.3379.5511

the antidote for sensory over-load brought on by smoky pachinko parlors and cheesecake crepe-wielding kawaii girls: a visit to the century-old, 175-acre shinto shrine in the heart of the city. breathe in 365 varieties of evergreen trees before diving back into the urban jungle for more.

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