CROCHET BARBIE - trishagurumi · PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE FOR THE DOLL What do you...
Transcript of CROCHET BARBIE - trishagurumi · PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE FOR THE DOLL What do you...
1 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
CROCHET BARBIE
The pattern includes the crochet doll and her outfit.
2 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
FOR THE DOLL
What do you need:
lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of 1.25-1.5 mm)
for the body
use a hook of size 1.00 mm for the body
a preferred yarn for the hair (I used a red lace yarn, the
same type as I used for the body)
some wadding
an up to 1.0 mm wire for the legs and arms
thin scissors that are also used to assist in stuffing the
narrow areas of the doll
Skill level: intermediate
Finished Size of the doll: appr. 14 cm
Abbreviations:
rd = round / sc = single crochet / inc = increase / dec = decrease /
st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip stitch / ch = chain
You crochet down-to-up, starting with the legs, and work in
continuous rounds of single crochets, leaving an outline for the
arms that are crocheted with a new yarn.
© 2017 Trishagurumi
All rights reserved.
You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products made
with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the designer.
1 retrieved from http://www.amigurumipatterns.net (September 2017)
How to read the instructions:
To facilitate the reading, I abbreviate working several consecutive
stitches as the number to be crocheted:
e.g. “5 sc, inc (7)” means that you work a sc in each of the next 5
sts and 2 sc in the 6th stitch, getting a round of 7 sts.
“4 sc, dec (5)” means, likewise, working a sc in each of the next 4
sts and, then, crocheting the 5th & 6th st in a sc together, reducing
the round from 6 to 5 sts.
For the inc and dec sts, I shorten several consecutive increases/
decreases in terms of y-times (stated as x, i.e. yx inc or yx dec)
“2x inc” means that you increase the next 2 sts, thus, working 2
sc in each of the next 2 sc (4 sc in total); rd-inc by 2 sts.
“3x dec” means that you sc each of the next 3 2-sts together, thus,
sc the 1st & 2nd sc together, the 3rd & 4th, and the 5th & 6th. The
next rd is 3 sts lower.
INFO-BOX 1: How to decrease stitches invisibly
If you want to decrease sts without creating a noticeable
decrease pattern or gaps, the invisible decrease (dec) is the
perfect way to go: insert hook in each of the front loops of the
st that you want to sc together (1). You now have three loops
on your hook. YO and pull through the first two loops on your
hook (2). YO again and pull through the two loops remaining
on your hook (4). You have now invisibly decreased one st.1
2 retrieved from http://www.lookatwhatimade.net (September 2017)
INFO-BOX 2: How to make a bobble stitch2
ch 2, YO, insert hook into next st, YO and pull through the st
(you have 3 lps on the hook now), YO again and pull through
2 of your loops on the hook [you’ve got 2 loops on the hook
now; if you would pull through all 3 lps instead, you would get
a half double crochet].
Repeat the process on the same st:
YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through the st, YO
again and pull through 2 loops on the hook [you’ve got 3 loops
on the hook now].
Repeat the process on the same st a last time and close the
bobble at the end by pulling through all remaining lps:
YO, insert hook into same st, YO and pull through the st, YO
again and pull through 2 loops on your hook [you’ve got 4 lps
on the hook now]. At last, YO again and pull through all loops
on your hook.
Depending on how thick you want the bobble to be, you
repeat the process more often (we, in comparison, work 3-
times on the same st).
PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE 2
3 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
RIGHT LEG (from the doll’s perspective)
Chain 2
1. Rd: 6sc in 2nd st from hook
2. Rd: 5 sc, inc (7)
3. Rd: 4 sc, 3x inc (10)
4. Rd: 4 sc, 3x dec (7)
5.-7. Rd: 1 sc each st around (7)
8. Rd: 6 sc, inc (8)
9. Rd: 7 sc, inc (9)
10. Rd: 8 sc, inc (10)
11. Rd: 9 sc, inc (11)
12. Rd: 10 sc, inc (12)
13.+14. Rd: 1 sc each st around (12)
15. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 1 (11)
16. Rd: 1 sc each st around (11)
17. Rd: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc (11)
18. Rd: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc (11)
19. Rd: 10 sc, inc (12)
20. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 1 sc (13)
21. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 1 sc (14)
22. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (16)
23.-26. Rd: 1 sc each st around (16)
27. Rd: 14 sc, dec (15)
28. Rd: 1 sc each st around (15)
29. Rd: 1 sc each of the next 5 sts, sl st the 5th st and stop (do
not finish the rd)
LEFT LEG
Work as above until the 29th rd. In the 29th round work 11 sc
instead of 5 sc like in the right leg, then ch 3 and sc through the
6th sc from the last round of the 1st leg (the first of the left-out sts
from the 29th rd) to connect both legs by ch sts.
Place a marker and count anew.
BUTTOCKS (continue with the round)
For orientation, I underline the area that is worked for the
buttocks.
30. Rd: 7 sc, 5x inc, 2 sc, 3sc along ch sts, 2 sc, 5x inc, 7 sc, 3 sc
along ch sts (44)
31. Rd: 10 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc,
13 sc (46)
32. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 14 sc (46)
33. Rd: 15 sc, inc, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, inc, 16 sc (46)
34. Rd: 20 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 20 (44)
35. Rd: 18 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 18 sc (42)
36. Rd: 17 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 17 sc (40)
37. Rd: 16 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 16 sc (38)
38. Rd: 15 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 15 sc (36)
39. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 9 sc (34)
40.-42. Rd: 1 sc each st around (34)
43. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc (32)
44. Rd: 1 sc each st around (32)
Insert a 1.0 mm wire and stuff the legs and hips. The wire is about
15 cm length in total that you bend to get two parts of the same
size. Insert each part into a leg so that the bended part lies in
between the legs. Stuff the legs with the help of a thin scissor as
far as you can. The feet and lower legs are considerably thin and
the 1.0 mm wire is a sufficient stuffing for those parts; thus, insert
the wadding to the upper leg only. Properly fill the butt and the
hips and bend the feet.
45. Rd: 8 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc (30)
46. Rd: 9 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc (31)
47. Rd: 1 sc each st around (31)
48. Rd: 9 sc, inc, 14, 4x inc, 3 (36)
49. Rd: 5 sc, 4x inc, 19 sc, 4x inc, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc (43)
50. Rd: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, 4x inc, 29 sc, dec (45)
51. Rd: (2, dec) x2, 24 sc, ch 5 and sc in 3rd next st, dec, 6 sc, dec
(42)
52. Rd: (2, dec) x2, 4 sc, dec, ch 5 and sc in 3rd next st, 13 sc, 5 sc
along ch sts, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (39)
53. Rd: 9 sc, dec, 5 sc along ch sts, 18 sc, dec, 5 sc (37)
54. Rd: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 21 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (33)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE DOLL
4 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
55. Rd: 5 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, (2, dec) x6, 1 sc (25)
56. Rd: (2, dec) x6, 3 sc (19)
Work the ARMS now before continuing with the rest of the body.
Thereby, take a new yarn, make a knot at the end of the yarn and
insert the hook in one of the left-out sts (arm-outline) of the 51st
Rd. Yarn over and directly continue sc the next sts as follows:
LEFT ARM: 1.-23. Rd: 1 sc each st around (7); include the transition
st that connects the [5] ch sts from the arm-outline with
the 54th Rd
24. Rd: 1sc, bobble st in next st (3x in same st; see
description in the introduction part), 5 sc
Fold both sides together and sc them together
(stitching 2 sc pairs together); weave in the yarn end.
RIGHT ARM: 1.-23. Rd: 1 sc each st around (7); include the
transition st that connects the [5] ch sts from the arm-
outline with the 55th Rd
24. Rd: 5 sc, BS, 1 sc
Fold both sides together and sc them together
(stitching 2 sc pairs together); weave in the yarn end.
Insert a wire that connects both arms. Stuff the upper body,
particularly the breasts. The arms are only stuffed with the wire.
57. Rd: dec every 3rd st, 1 sc rest (16)
58. Rd: dec every st (8x) (8)
59. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (8)
60. Rd: dec, 6 sc (7)
THROAT (continue with the round)
61.+62. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (7)
HEAD (continue with the round)
63. Rd: inc every st (14)
64. Rd: inc every st (28)
65. Rd: inc every 4th st (35)
From here, you can further stuff the upper body with the support
of a thin scissor through the throat to achieve a firm shape
66. Rd: inc every 7th st (40)
67. -77. Rd: 1 sc each st around (40)
78. Rd: 4 sc, 2x dec, 5 sc, 2x dec, 1 sc in the remaining sts (36)
79. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (36)
80. Rd: dec every 6th st (5x), 1 sc rest (31)
81. Rd: dec every 3rd st (7x), 3 sc rest (24)
82. Rd: dec every 2nd st (8x) (16)
Stuff the head.
83. Rd: dec every st and close the head
EARS (2x)
Take a new yarn and work 5 sc in a magic ring. Repeat for the
other ear.
Sew the ears to the face in a total length of 4 rows between the
12th+13th row from above and 9th +10th row from above,
approximately 19 sts apart; the ears are approximately in the
vertical line to the arms.
5 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
NOSE
Take a new yarn and thread it between the 10th st in the round
of the ear-ends to a round below (the nose is about 3 rows’
length)
BELLY BUTTON
With a new skin-coloured yarn work a belly button by stitching on
the 9th row from the bottom. Stitch twice firmly from between the
butt cheeks to the belly button and back to add on shape!
EYES
The eyes consist of 2 simple stitches
with a ply yarn (strong thread). Take
two strands of black yarn and,
together, thread them in the 1st row
above the nose-begin and about 1 st
aside. Work diagonally (form a right
triangle per eye), covering 2 rows.
The eyes are, at the bottom, 2 or 3 [empty] sts apart.
Alternatively, use safety eyes of about 3 mm.
MOUTH
The lips are made using two strands of pink-orange or red
coloured ply yarn similar to the eyes. The upper lip’s length is 6
sts, the lower lip lies on 3 sts, and the lips go altogether through
3 rows.
Start at the top of the head and
thread in the 1st row below nose-end
about 3 sts aside. Stitch in the 5th st
to the right and continue going from
the inside to the lower lips. Stitch
them in between 1 st and then work
the sides.
Pull the thread ends tightly in order to shape the head on the lips
and knot the ends together.
HAIR
The hair is worked in strands of lace yarn (I chose pink for the
colour). Each stitch is being filled up to the middle of the back of
the head.
For each hair strand, insert the hook through two stitches of
vertical rows, take one piece of yarn with the hook and pull it back
through the two sts. Now, you’ve got a loop on one side and two
yarn ends on the other side. With the hook or your fingers pull
both yarn ends through the loop to create a knot. Stretch the yarn
ends to close the knot firmly. Continue those steps for each hair
strand until you’ve covered the top of the head and got your
desired hair density.
6 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
7 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
FOR THE OUTFIT
What do you need:
lace yarn (at a recommended hook size of 1.25-1.5 mm)
in blue (for the shorts), light-violet (for the top), and
beige (for the shorts-details)
use a hook of size 1.00 mm
Skill level: intermediate
The outfit consists of …
jeans-shorts
a crop top
Abbreviations:
rd = round / sc = single crochet / dc = double crochet / inc =
increase / dec = decrease / st, sts = stitch, stitches / sl st = slip
stitch / ch = chain
How to read the instructions:
See description for the doll
© 2017 Trishagurumi
All rights reserved.
You may not sell, redistribute or publish this pattern. Final products
made with this pattern can be sold if Trishagurumi is credited as the
designer.
SHORTS
The shorts are worked with a blue-coloured yarn at a
recommended hook size of 1.2-1.5 mm (the same yarn size you
used for the body of the doll). At each round end, ch 1 and turn
your work, unless it states that you continue crocheting in
continuous rounds.
ch 37
1. Rd: 1 sc in each ch st around (36) [ch 1 + turn]
2. Rd: 18 sc, inc, 17 sc (37)
3. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 11 sc (39)
4. Rd: 11 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 11 sc (41)
5. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 15 sc, inc, 12 sc (43)
6. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 12 sc (45)
7. Rd: 12 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 12 sc (47)
8.+ 9. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (47)
Connect both sides of the last round with a sl st and continue
working in continuous rounds:
10. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (47)
11. Rd: count 24 sc and work a sc into the 24th sc to create two
equally sized outlines for the legs.
Continue working on the left leg [from the view of the doll]
12. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (24)
Weave in the yarn end and continue with a new yarn on the right
leg:
12. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (24)
Weave in the yarn end, put the trousers onto the doll and use the
beginning yarn end to sew the top of the trousers on the doll
together. Thereby, the sides to be closed have to be in the front.
CROP TOP
For the top, use another colour of the same yarn type. At each
round end, ch 1 and turn your work.
ch 25
1. Rd: inc every 2nd st (36)
2. Rd: inc every 6th st (42)
3. Rd: inc every 7th st (48)
4. Rd: inc every 8th st (54)
5. +6. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (54)
7. Rd: 7 sc, count 11 and sc in the 11th st (left arm-outline), 19 sc,
count another 11 sc and sc in the 11th st (right arm-outline)
8. -11. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (35)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE OUTFIT
PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI
8 PATTERN BY TRISHAGURUMI CROCHET BARBIE
Put your work on the doll so that the backside is open and sew
both sides of the work on the back together.
DETAILS ON THE SHORTS
Take a white or beige yarn of the same size like before and sew
the outlines typical for jeans on the trousers: starting from the
side-lines to double-lines on the back of the shorts, to side-
pockets and the pockets at the back.
The output can look something like this: