Croatia

Peter Dragicevich, Anthony Ham, Jessica Lee

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NorthernDalmatia

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Split &Central Dalmatia

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Dubrovnik &Southern Dalmatia

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Inland Croatia

KvarnerIstria

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Croatia . . . . . 4Croatia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Croatia’s Top 17 . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .18If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Month by Month . . . . . . . 22Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Outdoor Activities . . . . . 36Croatia’s Islands . . . . . . . 44Travel with Children . . . . 52Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Regions at a Glance . . . . 60

ZAGREB . . . . . . . . . . . 64Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 81Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 87Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 92Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

INLAND CROATIA . . . 98Around Zagreb . . . . . . . . 99Samobor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Mt Medvednica . . . . . . . . . 102Zagorje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Klanjec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Krapinske Toplice . . . . . . . 104Krapina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Varaždin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Međimurje . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Slavonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112Ðakovo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Osijek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Baranja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Vukovar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Ilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

ISTRIA . . . . . . . . . . . 125Istria’s West Coast . . . . 127Pula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Brijuni Islands . . . . . . . . . . 134Vodnjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Bale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Poreč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Umag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Central & Eastern Istria . . . . . . . . 150Momjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Grožnjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Motovun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152

Buzet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Roč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Hum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Pazin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Svetvinčenat . . . . . . . . . . . 159Labin & Rabac . . . . . . . . . 160

KVARNER . . . . . . . . . 169Rijeka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Around Rijeka . . . . . . . . 176Risnjak National Park . . . 176Volosko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Opatija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Učka Nature Park . . . . . . . 180Lošinj & Cres Islands . . .181Beli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Cres Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Valun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Lubenice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Osor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Nerezine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Mali Lošinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Veli Lošinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Krk Island . . . . . . . . . . . 192Malinska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Krk Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Punat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Vrbnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Baška . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196East Kvarner Coast . . . 198Crikvenica . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Senj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Rab Island . . . . . . . . . . . 200Rab Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Lopar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205

NORTHERN DALMATIA . . . . . . . . 206Lika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208Plitvice Lakes & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208

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Contents

Gospić . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Paklenica National Park . . . . . . . . . . 211Pag Island . . . . . . . . . . . 213Pag Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Zrće Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Novalja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Nin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Zadar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220Dugi Otok . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Veli Rat & Punta Bjanca . . . . . . . . . . . 227Božava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Sali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Telašćica Bay . . . . . . . . . . 229Šibenik-Knin Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Tisno & Murter Island . . . 229Krka National Park . . . . . .230Šibenik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Primošten . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Rogoznica . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236

SPLIT & CENTRAL DALMATIA . . . . . . . . 237Split . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Around Split . . . . . . . . . 258Kaštela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258

Trogir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Šolta Island . . . . . . . . . . . .264Stobreč & Podstrana . . . . 265Omiš . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Makarska Riviera . . . . . 266Brela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Makarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Biokovo Nature Park . . . . 269Brač Island . . . . . . . . . . 269Supetar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Bol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Hvar Island . . . . . . . . . . 275Hvar Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Pakleni Islands . . . . . . . . . 282Stari Grad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Jelsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284Vis Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Vis Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Komiža . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288

DUBROVNIK & SOUTHERN DALMATIA . . . . . . . .289Dubrovnik . . . . . . . . . . . 291Around Dubrovnik . . . . 314Cavtat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Konavle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Elafiti Islands . . . . . . . . . . 317Mljet Island . . . . . . . . . . 318Mljet National Park . . . . .320Okuklje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Saplunara . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Pelješac Peninsula . . . . 321Ston & Mali Ston . . . . . . . 321Orebić . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Korčula Island . . . . . . . . 324Korčula Town . . . . . . . . . . . 325Lumbarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Vela Luka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330Lastovo Island . . . . . . . . 330

Croatia Today . . . . . . . . 332

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334

The Croatian Mindset . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348

Architecture . . . . . . . . . 352

The Natural Environment . . . . . . . . . 354

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 362

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 367

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .371

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 383

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESCroatia’s Islands . . . . . . 44

Lazy Days in Zagreb . . . 76

Croatia’s Coast . . . . . . . 163

Lazy Days in Split . . . . 252

Lazy Days in Dubrovnik . . . . . . . . . . . 312

Dubrovnik’s Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 306

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SURVIVAL GUIDE

Plan Your Trip

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Itineraries

Essential Croatia

This itinerary focuses on the essential Croatian experience – a sunny island-hopping trip along the Dalmatian coast stopping at three World Heritage Sites along the way. Conveniently, it has an international airport at each end. We’ve envisaged it as a journey that can be made predominantly by ferry.

Start with a stroll through the marbled streets of the postcard-perfect walled town of Trogir. Either relax here for a

night or continue on to Croatia’s exuber-ant second city Split. Diocletian’s Palace is a living part of this seafront city, a throbbing ancient quarter that’s home to 220 historic buildings and about 3000 people. Base yourself here for a day or two of sightseeing and nightlife.

Hop on a fast catamaran to Bol on the island of Brač (or alternatively a car ferry to Supetar and then a bus). This pretty little port is most famous for Zlatni Rat beach – a glorious spur of pebbles that extends 500m into the Adriatic.

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Peristil (p240), Diocletian’s Palace, Split

Next, catch the catamaran to historic Hvar Town, the vibrant capital of the island of the same name. This picturesque place offers an intriguing mix of European glamour and a raucous bar scene.

From Hvar Town there are year-round connections to Korčula Town – a highly photogenic walled town jutting out into the Adriatic on its own little peninsula. From May to mid-October, there are

catamarans from here to Dubrovnik, oth-erwise you’ll need to catch the car ferry to Orebić on the Pelješac Peninsula and continue by bus.

Your first sight of the magnificent old town of Dubrovnik, ringed by mighty defensive walls and the sparkling blue Adriatic, is bound to blow you away. Spend the next two days taking in its sights.

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MONTENEGRO

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Pag Island

Trogir

Zadar

Split

Dubrovnik

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ITALY

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Take in the heavyweights of Croatia in this two-week journey, including the capital city, three national parks and the gems of the Dalmatian coast.

Start in the capital, Zagreb, and set aside two days to delve into its booming cafe culture, cutting-edge art scene, simmering nightlife and interesting museums. En route south, spend the day at the World Heritage–listed Plitvice Lakes National Park, exploring its verdant maze of turquoise lakes and cascading waterfalls.

Cut down through the Velebit mountains to the coast and cross onto Pag Island to try some of its famously pungent cheese and indulge in its summertime beach-club scene. Continue on to Zadar, one of Croatia’s most underrated cit-ies. It’s simultaneously ancient and modern and packed with attractions.

The next day, stop en route at Krka National Park and do the hour-long loop along the board-walks connecting the little islands in the emerald-green river. End the outing with a swim at the lake below Skradinski Buk, the park’s largest waterfall. Continue on to Šibenik, another gem of an old town with a truly magnificent cathedral.

Next day, stop at Trogir to admire the World Heritage–listed walled town sitting on its own little island, then travel south to the buzzing Dal-matian city of Split for a two-day fling focused on Diocletian’s Palace.

If you hired a car, return it here and hop over to chic Hvar Town by ferry for a taste of its happening nightlife and for some clothing-optional sunbathing on the Pakleni Islands, immediately offshore.

Catch another ferry to Pomena on the gorgeous island of Mljet, gateway to Mljet National Park – you’ll get a great view of Korčula Town from the boat. Walk through the forest and around the salt lakes before hiring a car to drive to the eastern end of the island to spend the night. The follow-ing morning, return the car to Pomena and catch the ferry on to Dubrovnik. Spend the next two days exploring the old town’s gleaming marble lanes, vibrant street life and fine architecture.

Note that the Hvar–Pomena–Dubrovnik fer-ries only operate from May to mid-October. At other times it’s easiest to omit Mljet, ferry back to Split and catch the bus to Dubrovnik.

2 WEEKS Capital to Coast

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Top: Mljet Island (p318),Bottom: Restaurants in Zagreb’s Old Town (p85)

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Explore the Istrian peninsula for its coastal resorts, pretty beaches, hilltop medieval towns, top-rated food, award-winning wines and lovely rural hotels.

Start your trip in Pula, the peninsula’s coastal capital, home to a remarkably well-preserved Roman amphitheatre that overlooks the city’s harbour. The Arena, as it’s known locally, once hosted gladiatorial contests with up to 20,000 spectators; today you can tour its remains and take in the small museum in the chambers downstairs. Base yourself in Pula for two days to see the smattering of other Roman ruins and take at least an afternoon to explore nearby Cape Kamenjak by bike or on foot. This en-tirely uninhabited cape, Istria’s southernmost point, features rolling hills, wildflowers (includ-ing 30 species of orchid), medicinal herbs and around 30km of virgin beaches and coves.

Stop to check out the captivating town of Bale, an offbeat place and one of Istria’s best-kept secrets. Push on to Rovinj and set aside at least two days for the coast’s showpiece resort town. Its steep cobbled streets and piazzas lead up to St Euphemia’s Church, an imposing con-struction with a 60m-high tower that punctuates the peninsula. Take time to explore the verdant beaches and some of the 14 green islands that make up the Rovinj archipelago just offshore.

Zip up the coast to Poreč to gape at its World Heritage–listed Euphrasian Basilica, one of Eu-rope’s finest intact examples of Byzantine archi-tecture, with magnificent 6th-century frescos.

Spend the rest of your trip exploring the pen-insula’s wooded interior. Drop into music-filled Grožnjan before continuing on through to Motovun, a similarly artsy hilltop settlement known for its summer film festival. The hilltop town of Buzet, known as Istria’s truffle epicen-tre, makes for a good base for exploring the villages of Croatia’s foodie heartland.

Stop to wander around the ‘world’s smallest town’, the adorable Hum. Head southwest towards Pazin to walk through the famous chasm which once inspired Jules Verne. On your way back to Pula, make a final stop to stroll through scenic Svetvinčenat, with its Renais-sance-era square and castle.

1 WEEK Highlights of Istria

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Take in the delights of Croatia’s northern coastal stretches and their wild hinterland, starting with the Kvarner Gulf and moving south to northern Dalmatia with its wide spectrum of appealing sights.

Start in the capital of the Kvarner, Rijeka, Croatia’s third-largest city and a thriving port with a laid-back vibe and a lively cafe scene. Take a day to explore this undervisited city and another to visit the elegant seaside resort town of Opatija. Its beautiful belle époque villas date from the dying days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, when the town was the stomping ground of the Viennese elite. While you’re at it, take time to stroll Lungomare, a picturesque path that winds along the coast through exotic bushes and thickets of bamboo to Volosko, a pretty fishing village that’s become one of Croatia’s gastronomic destinations; make sure you have lunch or dinner in one of its acclaimed restaurants.

Next, hop over to one of the Kvarner islands for two days – the interconnected Cres and Lošinj are the most offbeat. Wilder, greener Cres has remote campgrounds, pristine beaches, a handful of medieval villages and an off-the-radar feel. More populated and touristy Lošinj sports a pair of pretty port towns, a string of beautiful bays, and lush and varied vegetation throughout, with 1100 plant species and 230 medicinal herbs, many brought from faraway lands by sea captains. Spend another two days chilling on Rab, lounging on the sandy beaches of Lopar Peninsula and exploring the postcard-pretty Rab Town with its ancient stone alleys and the four bell towers that rise from them.

Back on the mainland, if you’re feeling ad-venturous, don’t miss a hike through the alpine trails and canyons of Paklenica National Park. Next head down to Zadar for an amble through this vibrant coastal city with its medley of Roman ruins, Habsburg architecture and a lovely seafront; stick around for two days to take it all in. Head back inland to spend a day exploring the dazzling natural wonderland of Plitvice Lakes National Park, with its gor-geous turquoise lakes linked by a series of wa-terfalls and cascades.

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Kvarner & Northern Dalmatia

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Silba

Rab

Ugljan

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ITALY

Off the Beaten Track

An obscure choice among the multitude of Adriatic islands, Silba nonetheless has ferry services, beaches and a legendary tower. (p223)

SILBA ISLAND

It’s nice to know that even the busy island of Krk has quieter coves, such as this pebble-and-sand stretch accessed from a minor road heading south from Punat. (p195)

STARA BAŠKA

Istria has many gorgeous walled hilltop towns, but what’s particularly charming about Hum is its tiny size (basically one street) and tucked-away location. (p156)

HUM

Although it’s Croatia’s largest natural lake, Vransko Jezero doesn’t register on many travellers’ radars – unless they happen to be birdwatchers, then it’s a must-visit attraction. (p228)

VRANSKO LAKENATURE PARK

With a name worthy of a fantasy novel, this area near the northern tip of the island of Pag has marked walking trails through the groves and signs pointing out significantly venerable trees. (p219)

OLIVE GARDENS OF LUN

Tour past wee red-roofed villages, stopping at family-run wineries along the way. This route is located in the countryside west of Zagreb, 20km south of the town of Samobor.(p102)

PLEŠIVICA WINE ROAD

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Koprivnica

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Vinkovci

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Virovitica

NovaGradiška

Ilok

Sinj

Sisak

Čakovec

Metković

Našice

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Lonjsko PoljeNature Park

Kopački RitNature Park#÷

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A verdant border region of green fields hemmed by mountains and punctuated by cypresses, hiding a gorgeous beach, a remote castle and excellent rural restaurants. (p317)

KONAVLE

This fascinating former monastery, hidden in a remote valley on the island of Brač, can only be approached by a narrow, rocky track. (p272)

BLACA HERMITAGE

A little-visited gem on the popular island of Hvar, this wee town has a smattering of interesting attractions, including an unusual fortress church, a canal and a winery. (p284)

VRBOSKA

An expanse of little heritage villages set around a wildlife-rich swamp, right on the edge of Slavonia. (p111)

LONJSKO POLJENATURE PARK

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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37 737 7

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edi-tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Alberto Juan Ibanez Diaz, Bob Letteney, Catherine Fletcher, Chak Man So, Diana Rodriguez Luna, Els Peeters, Helen Forster, Jay Altieri, Joshua Tindall, Lee Fearnehough, Ruth Goldwyn, Stephan Brox, Tereza Niznanska

WRITER THANKSPeter DragicevichFirst and foremost, I’d like to say a huge hvala to Vojko, Marija, Ivan, Mario and Ivana Dragičević in Split, for the kindness and patience you’ve shown your distant cousin over the years. Many thanks to my Destination Editor, Anna Tyler, and all of the in-house Lonely Planet crew who have contributed to this book. Special thanks to my fellow writers, Anthony Ham and Jess Lee.

Anthony HamMany thanks to Luca, Miriam, Lidija, Marija and all the staff at tourist offices across the country. At Lonely Planet, I am grateful to my editor, Anna Tyler, for sending me to such wonderful places, and to my fellow writers Peter and Jess for their wisdom. To my family – Marina, Jan, Carlota and Valentina: con todo mi amor.

Jessica LeeA big thanks to the people of Croatia for being such great company. In particular, a huge thank-you to the enthusiastic staff at the tourist information offices of Varaždin, Osijek and Zagreb County for being founts of knowledge and helpful information, and a big thank you to Anton, Irena, Mila, Tea, Tom and Zvonimir for tips and chats.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Mljet Island, OPIS Zagreb/Shut-terstock ©

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

378

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Croatia guide was curated by Peter Dragicevich, and researched and written by Peter, Anthony Ham and Jessica Lee. The previous edition was written by Peter Dragicevich, Marc Di Duca and Anja Mutić.

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Anna TylerSenior Product Editors Kate Chapman, Elizabeth Jones, Anne MasonProduct Editor Heather ChampionRegional Senior Cartogra-pher Anthony Phelan

Book Designer Gwen CotterAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Kate Daly, Gabrielle Innes, Jenna Myers, Charlotte Orr, Monique PerrinCover Researcher Wibowo RusliThanks to Vesna Čelebić, Sandie Kestell, Susan Pater-son, Jessica Ryan

379

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 362accommodation 362-3, see

also individual locationsagritourism 104, 161camping 49, 186, 197-8children, travel with 54hostels 49nudist resorts 146, 197

activities 21, 36-43, see also individual activities

air travel 367, 368animals 355aquariums 130-1Arch of the Sergii 130, 5archaeological sites 20-1

Arch of the Sergii 130, 5Burnum 231-2Kotli 156Mljet National Park 320Roman Amphitheatre 129Roman floor mosaic 130Roman Forum 221-2Salona 262Temple of Augustus 129Vučedol Culture Museum

121-2architecture 338, 352-3area codes 17art installations 220-1, 318arts 75, 78, 357-60Artuković, Lovro 360ATMs 364Augustinčić, Antun 104, 360

Bbackpacking 49Bale 136-7Baranja 119-21Bašanija 150Bašić, Nikola 220Baška 196-8Baška Tablet 196-7

basketball 351bathrooms 366beaches 19, 46, 167, 252-3,

312-13Brač Island 271, 273Cape Kamenjak 15, 131Colentum Beach 229-30Cres Island 182, 184,

185, 186Dubrovnik 312Dugi Otok 228Hvar Island 279Krk Island 193, 195, 197Lubenice Beach 186Makarska Riviera 266, 267Mljet National Park 321nudist 205, 267Pakleni Islands 282Paradise Beach 205Pasjača 317Pelješac Peninsula 322,

323Rab Island 205Silba Island 221Split 252Trigor 261Vis Island 286Zlatni Rat 14, 273Zrće Beach 217-18

Beli 182-3beer 16, 76, 76bicycling, see cyclingbirdwatching 15, 43, 111,

119-20, 183, 356, 15Blaca Hermitage 272Blue Cave 287boat tours 131, 139, 203,

223, 302boat travel 18, 45, 368-9,

see also sailingBol 14, 273-6, 47books 332border crossings 315border disputes 333Bosnia & Hercegovina 346-7Božava 228Brač Island 14, 269-75, 168Brela 266-7

Brijuni Islands 134-5budget 17bus travel 367-8, 369, 374-5business hours 17, 364-5Buzet 153-6

Ccafes 18, 76, 76-7canyons 180, 230Cape Kamenjak 15, 131, 15car travel 369-70castles & fortresses 259

City Walls & Forts (Dub-rovnik) 292-3, 292-3, 306

Fort Lawrence 293Fort St Jerome 18Fortica 276Kaštel 193-4Kaštilac 258Medvedgrad 102Morosini-Grimani Castle

18, 159Nehaj Castle 199Pazin Castle 158Sokol Grad 317St Mark’s Cathedral 327-8St Michael’s Fortress 234-5Ston 322Town Museum 108Trakošćan Castle 14,

106, 14Trsat Castle 171Veliki Tabor Castle 106, 2Zagorje region 14, 106, 14

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

caves 102, 143, 158, 211, 213, 273, 287, 354

Cavtat 314-17cell phones 16, 365cemeteries 65, 108, 271Central Dalmatia 62, 237-88,

238-9children, travel with 46,

52-4, 82, 151churches & cathedrals 352

All Saints’ Church 328

Cathedral of St Domnius 241

Cathedral of the Assumption (Dubrovnik) 301

Cathedral of the Assumption (Varaždin) 109

Church of St Anthony the Hermit 190

Church of the Assumption (Osor) 186

Church of the Assumption (Rab Town) 201

Church of Virgin Mary of Jerusalem 106

Collegiate Church of the Assumption 216

Ðakovo Cathedral of St Peter 113

Euphrasian Basilica 144-5, 30

Holy Cross Church 202Jesuit Church of St

Catherine 69, 88Our Lady of Trsat Church

173 Our-Lady-of-Health

Church 245St Anastasia’s

Cathedral 222St Blaise’s Church

(Dubrovnik) 301St Blaise’s Church

(Vodnjan) 135-6St Donatus’ Church 222St Euphemia’s Church

137, 139St Francis’ Monastery &

Church 130St James’ Cathedral 234,

214-15St Lawrence’s Cathedral

260St Lucy’s Church 196-7St Mark’s Cathedral 327St Mark’s Church 69St Stephen’s

Cathedral 276Čigoć 111cinema 332, 358

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

380

IND

EX C-K

climate 16, 22, 23, 25, see also individual regions

convents & monasteriesBenedictine Convent

277-8Dominican Monastery 273Dominican Monastery &

Museum 299Dominican Monastery

of St Peter the Martyr 283

Franciscan Monastery 223Franciscan Monastery &

Museum 298-9Košljun Franciscan

Monastery 195Krka Monastery 230-1Lokrum Island Benedic-

tine Monastery 294-5Monastery of St

Euphemia 204Mother of Mercy Fran-

ciscan Monastery 231credit cards 364Cres Island 14, 181-92, 14Cres Town 183-5Crikvenica 198-9Crveni Otok 140culture 332-3, 348-51currency 16, 364cycling 38-9, 47, 49, 368, 39

Dalmatia 38Danube Route 117Hvar Island 279Kvarner region 38, 181Lastovo Island 330Lošinj Island 188Pannonian Peace Route

117Parenzana Bike Trail 147Pula 131Zagreb 81

Ddance 325, 360dangers 365Ðakovo 113-14Diocletian’s Palace 12, 240-

1, 243-4, 12, 27disabilities, travellers

with 362discount cards 94, 363distilleries 124diving & snorkelling 39,

167, 41Brač Island 274Brijuni Islands 135Cres Island 184

Krk Island 194Orca Diving Center 131Poreč 145Rab Island 203Rovinj 139Vis Island 286wrecks 39

dolphins 181, 190, 191, 49Donji Humac 270drinks

beer 18, 76, 76coffee 10, 18wine 58-9, 113, 324, 329

Dubrovnik 9, 62, 291-314, 296-7, 300, 8-9, 292, 294-5, 306-7, 312-13

accommodation 304-5activities 302, 304discount cards 299drinking & nightlife

309-10entertainment 310festivals & events 304food 308-9, 307history 291shopping 310-11sights 291-9, 301-2, 312tourist information 311tours 302, 304travel to/from 311, 314travel within 314walking tours 293, 303,

303Đuđa i Mate 319 Dugi Otok 227-9

EElafiti Islands 317-18electricity 363emergencies 17, 374environment 354-6environmental issues 182,

356, 363, 368etiquette 349events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17Euphrasian Basilica

144-5, 30

Fferry travel 369, 166festivals & events 22-5, 24,

see also music festivals, individual locations

Cest is d’Best 23Dubrovnik Summer

Festival 304film 24, 81, 82, 83,

131, 153Following the Cross 284

food 155Labin Art Republika 160-1Pag Carnival 217puppetry 82Rijeka Carnival 22, 173-4 theatre 82

films 332, 358food 19-20, 46, 55-9, 3, 57,

58, 215, see also indi-vidual locations

cooking classes 56, 131festivals 155Istria 10olive oil 135, 154, 219, 224oysters 322paški sir 213, 216truffles 153, 154, 155, 157 vegetarian 58, 87

football 351fortresses, see castles &

fortresses

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGame of Thrones 293,

302, 304gardens 74-5, 79, 283, 316gay travellers 90, 350, 364Gospić 210-11Grabovača Cave Park 213Gračišće 162griffon vultures 182, 183, 184Grohote 264Grožnjan 151-2

Hhealth 363hiking 37-38, 47, 49, 38

Biokovo Nature Park 269Cres Island 181, 190Hvar Island 279Krk Island 197Lastovo Island 330Lošinj Island 181, 188,

190Medvednica Nature

Park 103Paklenica National

Park 211Rab Island 201Risnjak National Park 177Žumberak Samoborsko

Gorje Nature Park 99historic sites & buildings,

see also archaeological sites

Arsenal 277Diocletian’s Palace 12,

240-1, 243-4Krapje 111Rector’s Palace 297-8

Sabor 69Sponza Palace 301Tvrđa 115Varaždin 107

history 334-47, see also individual locations

holidays 365Hum 156-7Hvar Island 275-85Hvar Town 10, 276-82, 277,

278, 10, 44

IIlok 123-4Ilovik Island 189infectious diseases 363inland Croatia 60, 98-124,

100-1insurance 363, 370internet access 363-4internet resources 17islands 44-51, 166, 50-1Istralandia 151Istria 10, 61, 125-62, 126itineraries 26-35, 45, 26,

28, 34-5

JJadrolinija Island 189Jelsa 284-5

KKastav 178Kamerlengo Castle 261,

164-5Kaštela 258-9kayaking 40, 47, 139, 302,

304, 41Klančić 195Klanjec 104Koločep 317Komiža 288Konavle 317Kopački Rit Nature Park 15,

43, 119-21, 2, 15Korčula Island 324-30, 11Korčula Town 11, 46, 325-9,

326Kornati Islands 355Kornati National Park

230, 214Košljun 195Kozjak 208Krapinske Toplice 104-5Krapje 111Krk Island 192-3, 167Krk Town 193-4Krka National Park 12,

230-2, 12Kumrovec 105Kvarner 61, 169-205, 170

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

381IN

DEX L-P

LLabin 160-2lacemaking 213, 216-17lakes 78, 208-9, 229,

236, 320language 16, 357, 371-5Large Onofrio Fountain 298Lastovo Island 330legal matters 364LGBT travellers 90, 350,

364lighthouses 150, 227-8Lika 208-12, 213Limski Kanal 141Lipizzaner horses 114literature 332, 357-8Lokrum Island 294-5, 294-5Lonjsko Polje Nature

Park 111Lopar 205Lopud 317Lošinj Island 181-92Lotrščak Tower & funicular

railway 68, 54Lubenice 186Lumbarda 329

MMakarska Riviera 266-9Mala Učka 180Mali Lošinj 187-90Mali Ston 321-3Malinska 192-3maps 364markets 68, 93, 88Maslinica 264measures 365medical services 363Međimurje 111-12memorials 130Milna 270Mirogoj 65, 88-9Mljet Island 13, 318-21,

13, 28-9Mljet National Park 13, 320mobile phones 16, 365Momjan 150-1monasteries, see convents

& monasteriesmoney 16, 17, 364Montenegro 315monuments 120, 139 Mostar 315Motovun 13, 24, 152-3,

154, 13Mt Medvednica 102-3mummies 136Murter Island 229-30museums & galleries

Antun Augustinčić Gallery 104

Archaeological Museum (Split) 244

Archaeological Museum (Zadar) 221

Archaeological Museum (Zagreb) 74

Branislav Dešković Art Gallery 273

Bukovac House 315Castle Eltz 122Cres Museum 183-4Croatian Association of

Artists 73-4Croatian Museum of

Naïve Art 65-8Croatian Museum of

Tourism 179Croatian Natural History

Museum 72Dražen Petrović Memorial

Museum 79Ethnographic Museum 78Fritzy Palace 188Galerija Klovićevi Dvori 68Gloria Maris 115Grožnjan 151Istria Historical &

Maritime Museum 129Kumrovec Staro Selo

Museum 105Lauba 78Lošinj Marine Education

Centre 190Love Stories Museum

18, 302Maritime & History

Museum 171Meštrović Atelier 72Meštrović Crikvene-

Kaštilac 245Meštrović Gallery 244-5Motovun: A History in

Motion 18Museum Mimara 74Museum of Ancient

Glass 221Museum of Art &

Crafts 78Museum of Broken

Relationships 65, 89Museum of

Contemporary Art 78-9Museum of Illusion 74Museum of Illusions 223Museum of Modern &

Contemporary Art 173Museum of Modern

Art 302Museum of Religious

Art 223Museum of Salt 219Museum of Slavonia

Archaeology Department 115

Museum of the Krapina Neanderthal 106-7

Narona Archaeological Museum 319

Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre 210-11

Osor Archaeological Collection 186-7

Pag Lace Gallery 216-17Rovinj City Museum 137Sacred Art Museum 261St Mark’s Abbey

Treasury 328Strossmayer Gallery of

Old Masters 75Technical Museum

Nikola Tesla 79Tortureum 69Tower Museum 190Victory Museum 18, 235Vučedol Culture Museum

121-2War Photo Limited 291-6World of Insects 109Zagreb 80’s Museum 69

music 255, 358-9 music festivals 23, 24, 139

Hideout 217-18INmusic Festival 23, 81Music Biennale Zagreb 81Osor Musical Evenings 187Outlook Festival 131Rab Musical Evenings 203Seasplash Festival 131Sonus 218St Donatus Musical

Evenings 224Tisno 231Ultra Beach 279Ultra Europe 247Varaždin Baroque

Evenings 109Mužilovčica 111

NNadin 224national parks 21, 354-5

Brijuni Islands 134-5Kornati National Park

230, 214Krka National Park 12,

230-2, 12Mljet National Park

13, 320Northern Velebit

National Park 355Paklenica National Park

211-16, 33Plitvice Lakes National

Park 9, 208-9, 210, 9, 38, 214-15

Risnjak National Park 176-7

nature parksBiokovo Nature Park 269Kopački Rit Nature Park

15, 43, 119-21, 2, 15Lonjsko Polje Nature

Park 111Medvednica Nature

Park 103Učka Nature Park 180-2Vransko Lake Nature

Park 228Žumberak Samoborsko

Gorje Nature Park 99Nerezine 187nightlife 21, 46-7, see also

individual locationsNin 219-20Northern Dalmatia 61,

206-36, 207Northern Velebit National

Park 355Novalja 218-19Novigrad 149

OObonjan Island 234Okuklje 320-1Omiš 265-6, 20Opatija 178-80opening hours 17, 364-5Orebić 323-4Osijek 114-19, 116Osor 186

PPag Island 213-19, 163Pakleni Islands 282-3Paklenica National Park

211-16, 33paragliding 42, 99, 198parks 74-5, 79, 283, 316passports 367Pazin 157-9Pelješac Peninsula 321-4photography 365picigin 244planning

budgeting 17calendar of events 22-5children, travel with 46,

52-4, 82, 151Croatia basics 16-17Croatia’s islands 44-51,

166, 50-1Croatia’s regions 60-2internet resources 17itineraries 26-35, 26,

28, 34-5outdoor activities 36-43repeat visitors 18travel seasons 16-17, 22,

23, 25, 45

382

IND

EX P-Z

plants 356Plešivica Wine Road 102Plitvice Lakes National Park

9, 208-9, 210, 9, 38, 214-15

Podstrana 265politics 332-3population 333Poreč 143-8, 144postal services 365Potomje 322Premantura Peninsula 131Primošten 236public holidays 365Pučišća 270Pula 127-134, 128, 30-1,Pulitika, Ðuro 360Punat 195

RRab Island 200-5Rab Town 200-5, 202Rabac 160-2rafting 43, 265raptors 232religion 333, 350Rijeka 171-6, 172, 32-3Risnjak National Park 176-7Roč 156rock climbing 42, 99, 197,

211-12, 43Ročka Konoba 156Rogač 264Rogoznica 236Roman ruins 335, 352, 20,

30-1, see also archaeological sites

Rovinj 137-43, 138

Ssafety 365sailing 40, 47, 188, 40Sali 228-9Salona 262Samobor 99Saplunara 321Sea Organ 220, 52Senj 199shopping 93-7, see also

individual locationsŠibenik 232-5, 233, 164Šibenik-Knin region 229-36Silba Island 221Šipan 318skiing 38, 103Skira, Dean 130Skradinski Buk 231, 12

Škrip 270Slavonia 112-24snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingŠolta Island 264-5Southern Dalmatia 62,

289-330, 290Split 12, 62, 240-58, 242-

3, 248-9, 252-3accommodation 247-9drinking & nightlife 251-4entertainment 255festivals & events 247food 249-51history 240shopping 255sights 240-1, 243-5, 252tourist information 256tours 245travel to/from 256-7travel within 257, 258walking tours 246, 246

sports 351St Mary’s Campanile 201Stara Baška 195, 48Stari Grad 283-4Stiniva 286, 36Stobreč 265Stomorska 264Ston 321-3, 165Sumartin 270Supetar 271-2Susak Island 189Sveta Katarina 140Sveta Marija 320Sveti Ilija 201Svetvinčenat 159-62swimming 37, 131, 36synagogues 299

Ttap water 363tax 362Telašćica Bay 229telephone services 16, 365tennis 351Tesla, Nikola 79, 210-11, 350thermal springs 104-5, 109,

112, 154time 16, 366tipping 364Tisno 229-30, 231Tito, Josip Broz 105, 135,

343, 344toilets 366Toreta 223tourism 332-3tourist information 366tours 370, see also boat

tours, individual locations

Trakošćan Castle 106, 14train travel 368, 370, 374-5Tramuntana sheep 182travel to/from Croatia 17,

367-8travel within Croatia 17,

368-70trekking, see hikingTrogir 259-60, 260Trsteno Arboretum 316Tučepi 268tunnels 130turtles 188

UUčka Nature Park 180-2Ultra Europe 247Umag 148-50Unije Island 189

Vvacations 365Valun 185-6Varaždin 107-12, 108Varaždinske Toplice 109vegetarian travellers 58, 87Vela Draga 180Vela Luka 330Veli Brijun 49Veli Lošinj 190-2Veli Rat 227-8Veliki Revelin Tower 327, 48Veliki Slap 208Veliki Tabor Castle 106, 2Verne, Jules 158Vid 319Vidova Gora 272Vis Island 11, 285-8, 11Vis Town 286-8visas 16, 366Vodnjan 135-6Volosko 177-8volunteering 366Vransko Lake Nature Park

228Vrbnik 18, 195-6Vrboska 284Vukovar 121-3

Wwalking tours, see

individual locationswalled towns 19, 164, 178,

199-200, 292-3water parks 151waterfalls 208, 209, 231, 354weather 16, 22, 23, 25weights 365wildlife 355-6wildlife sanctuaries 182-3,

188, 213, 232

wildlife-watching 43, 49, 177, 181, 209

windsurfing 42, 47, 188, 273-4, 14

wine 58-9, 113, 324, 329wineries

Brač Island 273Central Dalmatia 258-60Ilok 124inland Croatia 102Istria 143, 150Kozlović 150Kvarner region 195, 196Međimurje 111-12Pelješac Wine Trail 322Plešivica Wine Road 102Slavonia 113Zagorje 104

work 366

ZZadar 13, 220-7, 222, 13, 20

accommodation 224-5activities 223drinking & nightlife 226entertainment 226festivals & events 224food 225history 220shopping 226sights 220-3tourist information 226tours 223-4travel to/from 226-7travel within 227

Zagorje 14, 103-10, 14Zagreb 10, 60, 64-97, 66-7,

70-1, 10accommodation 64, 83-4children, travel with 82climate 64drinking & nightlife 10,

76, 87-92entertainment 92-3festivals & events 81-3food 64, 85-7, 28highlights 66-7, 66-7history 65LQBTIQ+ travellers 90shopping 93, 93-7sights 65, 68-9, 72-5, 78-9street art 75tourist information 95tours 79, 81travel seasons 64travel to/from 95travel within 94, 96-7walking tours 79, 80, 80

zip lining 18, 158, 159, 197, 213, 266, 20

zoos 79, 115Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

383383

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – April 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 805 1© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSPeter DragicevicIstria, Central Dalmatia, Southern Dalmatia After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home

– although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere. Peter also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Anthony HamKvarner, Northern Dalmatia When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Ten years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had become his second

home. Now back in Australia, Anthony continues to travel the world in search of stories.

Jessica LeeZagreb, Inland Croatia In 2011 Jessica swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing. Since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia, and she has contributed to guidebooks on Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus, Morocco, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia and Vietnam. Her travel writing has also appeared in Wanderlust magazine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet.

com. Jess has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’