Create a Farm Woodland Toolkit - City of Trees to create a farm woodland_0.pdfThe National Forest is...

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A toolkit to help you plan and plant A toolkit to help you plan and plant From experiences in The National Forest From experiences in The National Forest

Transcript of Create a Farm Woodland Toolkit - City of Trees to create a farm woodland_0.pdfThe National Forest is...

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A toolkit to help you plan and plantA toolkit to help you plan and plant

From experiences in The National ForestFrom experiences in The National Forest

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Create a farmwoodlandA toolkit to help you plan and plant

Compiled by Hugh WilliamsThe National Forest Company

From experiences in The National Forest

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Funding for this guide has been obtained from the National Forest Company, theForestry Commission and the Leicester Shire Economic Partnership. Thepreparation and advice provided by Ian Thompson and Chris Wait (both fromADAS) is gratefully acknowledged. Lastly, but most importantly, this guide hasbeen prepared with advice and experience obtained from many landowners whohave created and continue to manage their woodlands in The National Forest.

© Copyright The National Forest Company

www.nationalforest.org

First published in 2003 by The National Forest Company, Enterprise Glade, Bath Lane, Moira, Swadlincote, Derbyshire DE12 6BD

ISBN 0 85538 464 6

Editing and design: Jenny Claridge, Forest Research, Farnham, SurreyStudio design and printing: Colourgraphic Arts, Bordon, Hampshire

Cover photos: View over just-planted woodland at East Hill, Tatenhill, 1998.Marking out using a spray boom; a redstart; trees establishing in weed-free rows.

Photo credits: Christopher Beech, Rob Fraser and Martyn Pitt;Forest Research Photo Library; Forest Life Picture Library

Illustrations on pages 22 and 26: John Williams, Forest Research

Acknowledgements

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Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii

Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Why plant a farm woodland? . . . .Timber production . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Shelter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Screening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Game cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Recreation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Wildlife habitats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Woodland design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Type of woodland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Woodland layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Tree spacing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Tree suitability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .How to plant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Types of trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

When to plant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Site preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Marking out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Types of hand planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Weed protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Protection against animal damage . . . . . . . . . . 26

Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Keeping the trees growing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Replacing dead trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Ongoing management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Looking ahead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Contents

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Inviting children to help plant new woodland is anexcellent and popular way of involving local people. Over

150 local schoolchildren took part in this planting atChestnut Woodland, Moira.

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‘Farmers don’t make foresters’ is one of the many myths that have beenshattered by the creation of The National Forest and other community forestryprojects throughout the country. In The National Forest, some of our finestyoung woodlands are now being planted and managed by landowners andmanagers who have never before even contemplated such an enterprise.Nevertheless, it is not reasonable to expect such newcomers to haveimmediately to hand all the knowledge, techniques and skills needed to createand look after a new woodland.

Whether the primary purpose of woodland is for growing quality timber, fornature conservation or for amenity, good management is both essential andrewarding. A viable market for woodland products is the best driver for thismanagement and that is something we are working towards in The NationalForest. But knowledge of best practice is also vital.

We have had many pleas from owners considering a woodland scheme, andfrom those who have already taken the plunge, for a clear, practical manualcovering the basics of designing their woodland, getting it well established andits longer-term management.

Creating a woodland is a real commitment but enormously satisfying. We hopethat this book will provide a helping hand and reassurance.

Susan Bell, OBEChief Executive, The National Forest Company

Foreword

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The extensive new woods at Grangewood (60 ha) andadjoining Park Farm (82 ha) show the part woodland

can play in assisting farm diversification and enhancing the landscape.

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All woodland, regardless of where it is located, provides opportunities that far exceedthe trees alone. It can help landowners to diversify their landholding and businessinterests, create commercial and/or amenity benefits and can be linked with workthat enhances or creates opportunities for recreation, public access and tourism.

The National Forest is creating, through working partnerships and with communityparticipation, a new 200 square mile multi-purpose woodland for the nation in theheart of England. Ultimately 30 million trees will be planted which will cover a thirdof the Forest area. The National Forest is steadily turning what was once one ofthe least wooded parts of England into a sustainable forest for the 21st centuryand beyond.

The aim of this book is to provide information for landowners who are thinkingabout creating new woodland. Although every woodland scheme may have itsown set of unique particulars, the extensive experience of landowners within TheNational Forest has demonstrated that there are robust guidelines that can beapplied to most situations. This book draws these guidelines together.

For more information on The National Forest contact www.nationalforest.org

Helping you to achieve your woodlandWhen you decide to create a new woodland first thoughts should be about whyyou want one. The first section in this book looks at some common objectives forplanting a woodland. Having decided on your objectives, you need to design thewoodland, thinking about tree species and how the individual trees are laid out.That is also the time to consider future management tasks, such as weeding,because they will influence your decisions. When it comes to planting your wood,there are a number of factors to consider; the middle section of the book looks atvarious factors, from the choice of young (nursery) stock through to the tools usedin planting, to help ensure success. Getting the trees into the ground is a greatachievement but only the start of the story. So finally, we look at ways of protectingthem from damage (such as browsing), controlling weed competition andmaintaining them so that the wood you thought about at the planning stagematerialises successfully.

Introduction

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Well before a single tree is planted, it is very important to think about thepurpose of the woodland. Your aims will affect what woodland species will beplanted and how they will be managed. It is also essential to think of how thewoodland will ‘fit’ into the wider context of the landholding. For example:• Will the woodland maximise the non-woodland benefits of the landholding?• Could the woodland provide a setting for other interests such as lakes,

caravan parks, game shooting?

Factors such as these fundamentally affect the nature of the woodland createdand must be given careful and thorough consideration. Seeking early advice isrecommended. Sources of further information and advice are provided onpages 33–36.

We need to start somewhere …There are many reasons for planting woodland. These include: • timber production• provision of shelter• screening• game cover

Timber productionTimber production can be for use on the farm, for example fencing posts, or forcommercial purposes, or both. Most (70%) of the current national timber demandis for softwood (coniferous trees) but this market is subject to major pressure fromimports. The longer-term strategy within The National Forest is to produce highquality timber. The majority of trees (in excess of 80%) planted in The NationalForest are hardwoods (broadleaved trees).

Shelter Shelter can provide increased productivity for agricultural crops or livestockenterprises through improvements in the local microclimate. Opportunities fornew or earlier crop production may be possible. The working or living environmentaround homesteads or workplaces can be enhanced.

Why plant a farm woodland?

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• an educational resource• formal and informal recreation opportunities• creating wildlife habitats• creating a landscape feature

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ScreeningWoodlands can act as a screen to existing or proposed development, reducetraffic noise or protect an area from dust and smells. Creating a woodland as ascreen can enhance recreational activities and accommodate high numbers ofpeople while minimising the impact on the local environment.

Game coverMany existing mature woodlands were originally planted for game cover. Newlyplanted woodland can provide high value for game and wildlife improvement. Amixed conifer and broadleaved woodland with a significant proportion of woodyshrubs usually provides the best game wood. A carefully designed woodland isrequired to maximise shooting potential. For example, the woodland must not bedraughty so good ground cover is required and perimeter hedging could beplanted. The positioning and location of glades and rides is also important. Seekspecialist advice from organisations such as the Game Conservancy Trust whohave a range of helpful information.

EducationWoodlands can provide a wide range ofeducational opportunities, from a halfday tree planting event involving localschools to focused programmes thatinvolve aspects of the nationalcurriculum, university studies or specificarts projects. Woodland tasks such astree planting, weeding, thinning and useof timber products can provide anopportunity to train volunteers or newentrants to the industry in forest skills. Inthe wider context the general publicoften enjoy being involved in woodlandprojects and can learn a great dealabout their local environment.

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Tree planting is a great community activity, often involving local schools, and provides an opportunity to

learn about and improve the local environment.

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RecreationWoodland recreation can take manyforms. Game shooting has alreadybeen mentioned, but there are manyopportunities that a woodland setting can offer from informal walking to specialistorganised events. These may include horse riding, carriage driving, mountainbiking, paint balling, motorbike scrambling, four-wheel drive courses, caravansites, timber cabins, camping, show arenas for specialist events, nature watchingand fishing. There are opportunities to make money from all these activities.

Wildlife habitatsPlanting woodland creates habitats for a variety ofplants and animals. These range from the invertebratessuch as beetles and spiders that live on the forest floorto birds and mammals, and from mosses and floweringplants to lichens that will inhabit the mature woodland.Ancient woodland (where there has been continuouswoodland cover since at least 1600 AD) is the mostdiverse woodland habitat. If ancient woodland exists onor adjacent to a site then extending and protecting thisfeature will be of utmost importance.

Broadleaved woodland has a greater wildlife value thanconiferous (see page 6), but a compromise can befound with the creation of mixed woodland. Shrub andcoppice and open ground areas all provide usefulwildlife habitats. Woodland schemes make provision forboth of these habitats so they should be considered inthe design. Indeed, unplanted land can provide greatopportunities for wildlife and can add significant value.

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The redstart – a BAP species – whichlikes a mosaic of woodland habitats in

which it can feed and nest.

Installing boxes for the Noctule bat is onefeature of the National Forest’s

Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP) and isfrequently part of new woodland schemes.

From arable fields to fishing lakes in just 1 year.Beehive Farm at Rosliston is one example of the

way private landowners can use woodland creationto help in farm diversification.

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Many additional features can be provided within a woodland context. Theseinclude open water, wetlands, scrapes, reed beds, coppice, existing riversidetrees, ancient hedgerow trees, parkland trees, avenues, reinstating hedgerows,planting of wildflowers and the creation of traditional hay meadows.

LandscapeUsing available information andstudying the existing landscape willhelp determine the scale and type ofwoodland that may be appropriate.Large-scale woodlands may suitlarge open arable landscapeswhereas discrete woodlands may fitbetter where small fields create amore intimate setting.

The choice of species can also beinfluenced by the surroundings.Using natural regeneration in preference to planting should be considered next toexisting ancient and semi-natural woodlands. Traditional native species areappropriate next to ancient woodland sites, whereas more exotic species may beconsidered in a parkland style woodland. In an arable landscape single speciesplantations can be appropriate.

Maintaining views to and from awoodland are very important,particularly where there areinteresting landmarks such aschurch spires, and unusual orspecial natural features, and shouldbe allowed for in the design. Well-designed, well-managedwoodlands can increase the valueand desirability of a property.

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The land around Bagworth in the Midlands Coalfield has seen a significant increase in new woodland.

Mature hedges, boundary trees and church spires, as seen here at Lullington, are important landscape features

to consider when planning new woodland.

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Woodland design

There are many different aspects to consider when designing a woodland plan.The main aspects are:1. Type of woodland 2. Woodland layout 3. Tree spacing 4. Tree suitability

Type of woodlandBroadly there are four types of woodland that can be planted. A scheme mayconsist of one, some or all of the four main types described in Box 1.

BOX 1 I Main woodland types and additional elements

■ BroadleavedTypically consisting of major (dominant) species such as oak, ash, wild cherry and sweet chestnut. They can be grown for commercial reasons and if managed correctly will produce high value cropsin the long-term (60 years). Certain broadleaved species may need pruning to maintain their quality.Thinnings will be taken throughout the life of the woodland and will start when the woodlands are20–25 years old.

■ ConiferousTypically Scots or Corsican pine, larch or spruce, these are commercial crop trees. They are fastergrowing and have the potential to provide early saleable timber. Typically the first crop, the thinnings,will be taken from approximately 20 years of age and then every 7 to 10 years until the cropreaches maturity (at 40–60 years old) when it can be felled.

■ Mixed broadleaved and coniferousThis type of woodland mixes the two types and provides a compromise giving the increased wildlifebenefits of broadleaf woodland with the quicker timber production associated with conifers. There ishowever a need to consider the scale of the woodland, as small mixed woodland can negateeconomies of scale, providing insufficient amounts of either hardwoods or softwoods to beeconomic to manage.

■ Fast growing broadleavesThese are fast growing trees, usually poplars, grown under very specific planting and managementregimes to provide a final crop in a relatively short time frame of between 20 and 30 years.

Additional woodland elements

■ ShrubsShrubs form an important component of any woodland planting, providing cover for game birds,wildlife habitats and nesting sites for a variety of species. Some, particularly hazel, provide minortimber products.

■ HedgerowsAn important feature of the landscape, hedgerows act as corridors for wildlife, link woodlandstogether, provide natural barriers and, where they encircle the woodland, add warmth to thewoodland floor.

■ Individual treesPlanting unusual tree species (such as wild service tree, holm oak, wellingtonia) in small groups inan avenue or parkland style in open ground can provide a unique feature to the woodland. Be a little different!

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Woodland layoutThe layout of the woodland has to consider a number of important factors:

1. Reasons for the woodland 2. Surrounding landscape3. Existing surrounding woodland 4. Areas of sensitivity (such as watercourses,archaeological features and nature conservation interest).

The types of woodland will have been decided at the design stage, taking intoaccount the aims of the woodland and its site conditions. The mix of specieswithin woodland types and their distribution now needs to be decided. There arethree options for the establishment of the trees. They can be planted as groups,in lines or in an intimate mixture.

GroupsThe advantage of this system is that in a mixed planting tree groups (varyingfrom 20 to 60 of each species) will grow at the same rate, ensuring survival of allthe species and resulting in a woodland that has all species represented. This is arobust and straightforward technique which can maximise the long-term value ofthe wood.

LinesThis option is the easiest to manage and suits mechanised planting andharvesting. However, care must be taken to avoid planting different species inalternate rows, especially on sloping ground, as this can create what is known asthe ‘pyjama pattern’, because of the obvious stripes that are visible from adistance.

Intimate mixtureThis is a random mix of the major tree species. In appearance this mix is themost desirable but in management terms it is the most difficult to achieve. Failureto manage correctly will result in the faster growing species shading out theslower ones and the desired design will fail to materialise.

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Tree spacingTree spacing can vary according to the types of species being planted and the typeof woodland desired and will affect future management practice. Examples ofspacing are shown in Box 2; the one selected will depend on your objectives.

Regular spacing is much easier to manage especially when the trees are small asit is easier to find them when they are in rows. It also allows the site manager toconsider management techniques such as mechanised inter-row swiping andmotorised spraying to control competing vegetation, methods which are fast andefficient (see pages 18 and 25).

Tree suitabilityThe suitability of a tree species to a particular site will depend on a number offactors. These include: soil condition, location, altitude and exposure. Tables 1 and2 on pages 10–11 indicate the suitability of different tree and shrub species tolocation and soil conditions. Table 3 on page 11 shows the suitability of trees andshrubs for shelter. Possible end-uses for their timber are shown in Table 4, page 12.

BOX 2 I Examples of tree spacing

■ 1 m x 1 mThis spacing is preferred for withies, a type of willow coppiced and used for weaving material. In thepast it was a traditional planting distance for oak trees and results in 10,000 trees per hectare.

■ 2.1 m x 2.1 mThis is the normal minimum spacing for larger woodlands where timber production is an objective.This equates to 2,250 trees per hectare. To grow quality timber, planting at greater density isfavoured. For example, a spacing of 2.1 m x 1.5 m will increase density yet still allow access formaintenance between rows.

■ 3 m x 3 mThis spacing is acceptable for small woods and in cases where the prime objective is to createaccessible community woodland. This equates to 1,100 trees per hectare.

■ 8 m x 8 mThis is an option often used for poplar plantations. The trees are carefully pruned and grown throughto a single crop without thinning. This results in 156 trees per hectare.

■ IrregularThis may be random within rows and/or random between rows. It is preferred if a more naturalappearance is desired or if wildlife and conservation are prime objectives. This variable spacing alsoallows space for natural regeneration to supplement the planted trees. To ensure successful creationof new native woodland a density of 1,600 trees per hectare should be achieved.

Note: 1 hectare = 2.471 acres. 1 hectare has dimensions of 100 metres by 100 metres.

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For woodland where nature conservation is important, the number of speciescan be increased. Advice is contained in FC Bulletin 112: Creating new nativewoodlands, based upon the National Vegetation Classification (NVC) – seepage 35. Each wooded NVC type (there are 19) is related to a particularclimatic zone and soil condition and represents the type of vegetation that woulddevelop if natural succession was allowed to take its full course.

When considering what species are suitable, also think about the overallbalance of the woodland and what the woodland is for. Where timber isa main aim, concentrating on a smaller number of species may bedesired. For example, consider planting three principal timber species(about 70% in total), two to three medium height species (20% in total)to provide balance and colour and three to four species of woody shrubs(10% in total) to give low cover.

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Table 1 I Suitability of selected tree species to site conditions

Ash ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Aspen ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Black poplar ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Common alder ✔ ✔ ✔

Common walnut ✔ ✔

Crab apple ✔ ✔ ✔

Cricket bat willow ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Downy birch ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Field maple ✔ ✔ ✔

Goat willow ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Larch ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Large leaved lime ✔ ✔ ✔

Pendunculate oak ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Pine ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Rowan ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Sessile oak ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Silver birch ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Small leaved lime ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Sweet chestnut ✔

Whitebeam ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Wild cherry ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Yew ✔ ✔

Wet / Heavy Neutral / Acid Light / Exposed Shady Contaminatedmoist alkaline dry

Soil typeSpecies

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Table 2 I Suitability of selected shrub species to site conditions

Wet / Heavy Neutral / Acid Light / Exposedmoist alkaline dry

Soil typeCommon name

Alder buckthorn ✔ ✔

Almond willow ✔

Bay willow ✔ ✔

Blackthorn ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Dog rose ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Dogwood ✔ ✔ ✔

Eared willow ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Elder ✔ ✔ ✔

Field rose ✔ ✔

Guelder rose ✔ ✔ ✔

Hawthorn ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Hazel ✔ ✔ ✔

Holly ✔ ✔ ✔

Juniper ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Osier willow ✔ ✔

Privet ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔

Purging buckthorn ✔ ✔

Purple willow ✔ ✔ ✔

Spindle ✔ ✔ ✔

Wayfaring tree ✔ ✔ ✔

Table 3 I Suitability of trees and shrubs for shelter

Narrow-crowned broadleaves foredges (many coppice well)

Tall broadleaves for height and longevity

Shrubs for dense lower storey

Alders: common, red and grey Ash Blackthorn

Ash Oak Buckthorn

Birches: silver and downy Sycamore Dog rose

Poplars Sweet chestnut Elder

Rowan Hawthorn

Whitebeam Hazel

Willows: white, goat and crack Holly

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Table 4 I Tree species and possible end-uses for their timber

Broadleaved species Possible end-use

Coniferous species Possible end-uses

Alder: black and grey Turnery work, medium priced furniture and hardwood pulp. Good firewood fuel.

Ash Specialist market for sports goods, also tool handles.Burns well even when green – makes excellent logs.

Birch: downy and silver Useful furniture plywood and veneer. Poorer quality timbers used for particleboard and pulp. Potential to create birch coppice for fencing hurdles.

Cherry In great demand for furniture, veneer and turnery. Consider the use of specialist species such as ‘Wildstar’; seek advice.

Hazel Traditionally used for hedge stakes and binders – a developing market. Also used as a thatching material. Nuts are still harvested –but a niche product.

Lime: small and large leaved For turnery and carving. Some furniture applications.

Maple: field Musical instruments. Wavy grain maple sought after for appearance.

Oak: pendunculate and sessile Furniture, panelling, high-class joinery and veneers.Low grades – fencing and gates.

Poplar Particularly good for veneers and can be used for internal furniture. Fast growing and can be harvested within 25 years but quantity and quality determine potential value. Seek advice.

Sweet chestnut Can be split easily to make cleft fencing and stakes. Alternative to oak in furniture products.

Walnut Potential for veneer quality timber if high quality stock planted and trees are managed for quality. A specialist species, seek advice.

Sycamore Furniture, joinery & flooring. Quality determines price- ‘wavy’ grain is particularly prized. Don’t dismiss as a ‘weed’ but consider risk posed by squirrel attack.

Willow: cricket bat and goat Cricket bat willow is a specialist crop so seek advice. Goat willow has niche uses for sculpture, craft and arts work.

Larch: European and Japanese General framing, deckboards, baseboards, sometimes leading edge board. Fencing, gates and posts, some joinery use

Pine: Corsican and Scots Trussed rafters and general framing. Deckboards and baseboards. Fencing, gateposts, space boarding and purlins. Some joinery uses.

Spruce: Norway A species that can be used as a ‘nurse’ crop, felled early and used for Christmas trees. However consider the increasing popularity of varieties more resistant to dropping their needles; seek specialist advice.

Yew Specialist use in high quality furniture and crafts, such as yew bows.

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Planting

Now that you have thought about the design of your woodland, it’s time to getsome trees into the ground! In addition to planting techniques and the types oftrees, you need to consider site preparation and the best time of year to plant.Seven main elements are involved in the initial planting of a wood.

1. How to plant2. Types of trees3. When to plant4. Site preparation

How to plantThere are four options: self-planting, hired help, professional tree plantingcontractors or mechanical planters.

Self-planting This is the cheapest option in terms of direct cost, and can be done at your ownconvenience. Be realistic about the amount of time that it may take, time whichmay not be readily available or would be better used elsewhere. Typically someonewho is not used to planting will manage to plant about 400–500 trees in a day.

Hired helpUsing hired help will greatly reduce the physical workload but will still necessitateorganising the planting team. This requires a high level of personnel managementand the ability to interpret and implement the carefully considered design planseffectively.

5. Marking out6. Type of planting7. Tools

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Professional tree planting contractorsThis is the more expensive option, but it does move some of the responsibilityfrom the owner/advisor to the planting contractor. Choose recommendedcontractors who can demonstrate that they are well organised and know how tohandle delicate planting stock. It is advisable to see if they have carried out worklocally and, if they have, to speak to the landowner and visit the site. Professionaltree planters work much more quickly and can often plant up to 1,000 trees perday. They are experienced in implementing written planting specifications. Onedisadvantage with good contractors is that everybody wants them at the sametime and availability may be an important factor.

It is accepted practice to put a tree replacement (or ‘beat-up’) clause into theinitial contract, making the contractors responsible for replacing any trees that failto establish over a specified time (usually the first two growing seasons). This willencourage contractors to take better care with the initial planting.

Mechanical planterUsing a mechanical planter is cheaper than hand planting and can give significantsavings in time. A machine planter can plant as many as 10,000 trees per day inlarge new woodlands with a simple layout. They are less labour intensive than

manual planting but are not ideallysuited to sloping ground and aredependent on drier and more friablesoil conditions. If conditions are notperfect there can be problems withthe trees not being plantedcompletely upright. Drying out andcracking of the ground can occurwhere the planter has travelled,leading to exposed roots and treemortality.

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Tree mortality of 5–6% at the end of one growing season is consideredreasonable. If the mortality is greater than this then possible causes (suchas poor planting, poor maintenance and pests) need to be investigated.

Machine planting at Grey Lodge Wood, Ratby. Note the raised spray booms (front) and the planting machine (rear)

mounted on the tractor.

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Planting designs have to be very simple to accommodate mechanised planting. Inpractice a design which has too many species is unlikely to be accuratelyreplicated. Hand planting may be required to plant special tree species, areas oftrees at specific places or at awkward areas where the machine could get stuck.

Types of treesThere is a range of planting stock types to choose from and the choice willdepend on species and situation. The stock types include bare root transplants,cell grown, whips, feathered whips, standards and setts. Box 3 describes thedifferent types and explains the advantages and disadvantages of each. As ageneral rule, for most large-scale woodland planting, it is most cost effective touse 15–20 cm cell grown conifers and 40–60 cm bare rooted broadleaves. It isrecommended that the trees are sourced from a reputable forest nursery.

The National Forest is committed to the use of trees of local provenance, i.e.those grown from British seed, which have improved growth, better chances ofsurvival and support native wildlife.

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Bare rooted oak transplant. Cell grown oak transplant.

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Box 3 I Different types of planting stock

Bare root transplantsTree height will vary between 15 and 90 cmand trees will be priced accordingly. Up to 90cm in height young trees are classed astransplants and will be categorised by the timespent growing in a nursery bed and the time‘hardening off’ outdoors. For example a 1 + 1transplant is one year in a nursery bed and oneyear planted out. A 1 u 1 transplant is a plantgrown for one year in a nursery bed, the rootsare then undercut in situ and grown for afurther year. This technique creates large fibrousroot systems.

Cell grownThe trees are grown from seed in trays of smallplastic cells. They are grown rapidly in plastictunnels and then hardened off outside onconcrete or raised trestles. They can vary in ageand the length of time they have been hardenedoff – very young trees should be avoided.

Whips, feathered whips and standardsThese are larger trees that range from 90 cm(whips and feathered whips) to 3 m (standards).They can be purchased bare rooted (at thesmaller sizes) or rootballed. Rootballing meansthe trees come with soil attached. This improvestheir chances of survival but increases the cost.

SettsSetts are cuttings of species (typically willowand poplar) which are planted directly into theground. Willow setts are about 20 cm in lengthand can be planted at great speed and highdensity. Poplar setts are generally about 0.5 min length and can be bought with or withoutroots; unrooted poplar setts are generallypreferred and tend to establish more quickly.

Advantages Cheapest, most widely available stock, easiestto plant and have the shortest planting season(November–end of March).

DisadvantagesFragile, need to be handled gently and prone todrying out. Ordering trees to be delivered inspecially made black and white bags allowsthem to be stored for up to 4 weeks in a cooland shady place prior to planting.

AdvantagesArrive with a small amount of soil, so are moreresistant to dry conditions and can be stored forlonger than bare rooted material before planting.Planting season can be extended from Octoberthrough to May.

DisadvantagesMore expensive than bare root transplants. Takelonger to plant. Good planting technique isessential, as poor planting can lead to cellsbeing forced out of ground by frost. Heavier tocarry.

AdvantagesBest used in specialist situations (such asparkland, formal avenues) where an instanteffect and low numbers of trees are required.

DisadvantagesMore expensive and higher risk of losses (canbe up to 40%). Larger and heavier so moredifficult to move around and plant. May requirepit planting, the installation of drainage and (forvery large trees) specialist anchoring.

AdvantagesQuick and easy to plant. Willow setts growquickly in damper ground to give an immediatewoodland.

DisadvantagesA damp (not dry) spring is needed followingplanting otherwise many trees can die.

Type of tree Advantages and disadvantages

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When to plantTrees should be planted between November and the end of March and beforethey start coming into bud. Budding can be suppressed by nurseries that keeptrees in cold storage. The season can be extended from October and into May byusing cell grown stock. Planting late in the season increases the risk of tree mortality.This is particularly critical with bare root trees as they are prone to drying out.

Site preparationIt is vital to determine whether the ground has any innate restrictions to treeestablishment. If there is any doubt, soil pits (to about 1m in depth) should bedug at different points within the field. If restrictions (such as a plough pan,compacted soils or very heavy clay soils) are present this could result in limitedroot growth of the trees, poor growth, high mortality and possible long-termvulnerability to being blown over. Before planting, the plough pan should bebroken up by ripping or sub-soiling.

The site preparation is dependent on the current use of the field (pasture orarable). For example, whether the field is rough, if there is a high incidence ofweeds, and what method of future management you are contemplating.

If planting into pasture you have to decide whether or not to keep the existinggrassland sward and plant trees into it or whether to plough the field and then re-seed with a low productivity grass or a grass/wildflower mix before planting.Planting straight into the grassland is the cheaper option. However, establishedgrassland often harbours small populations of field voles. Closing off the site tostock or ceasing a cutting regime can result in a vole population explosion thatwill put young trees at risk (see pages 23–27).

On arable fields it is important to decide whether to leave them in stubble or toplough, cultivate and re-seed before planting. Leaving as stubble may meanleaving tramline ruts and an uneven surface that will require remedial works andmay affect future management plans. It will also allow any weeds to colonise thesite and may make future weed control more difficult. Re-seeding provides theadvantage of knowing exactly what grass mix is present (and therefore how tocontrol it) and reduces colonisation by weeds.

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Marking outMarking out is done for two purposes. The first is to locate the boundaries of theplanting, open space and any changes in species, for example from trees toshrubs. This can be simply done using canes, chalk or marking paint and makesplanting easier and quicker. The second reason for marking out is to achievecorrect stocking rates and assist future management. The following methods canbe used:1. Full grid2. Half grid3. Poles and string4. Canes

Full gridThis is the quickest method ofmarking out and can be done inadvance of the planting operation.It requires a grid to be marked outat the required spacing, bothup/down and across a field. This can be achieved by scoring the ground with abar attached to the back of a tractor or quad. Some sites are marked out by sub-soiler and planting undertaken at the sides of the rip lines. Both techniques willfacilitate the mechanical cutting and spraying of the weeds between the trees butthe latter can leave an uneven and sometimes cloddy surface.

Half gridThis is the same principle as a full grid but marking out is only in one direction.This method may be used on difficult or steep terrain (which makes marking outin two directions dangerous) or where a simplified management regime isintended. Maintenance can only be carried out in one direction – the direction ofthe row. Planting rods can be used to mark the distances of plants within the row.

If you decide to re-seed it is essential to use a specialist low-vigourgrass mix. Many suppliers sell specific ‘forestry’ mixes. You can increasethe diversity of the grass sward by adding wildflower seed.

Spray boom being used to apply marking out spray prior to ground being scored at

Roecliffe Wood, Packington.

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Poles and stringThis involves marking out theplanting area with poles andindicating the rows by stringrunning between them. Once inplace the string will ensure that therow spacing is constant in onedirection. Marked planting poles arethen used to establish the distancewithin the rows. This providesaccuracy between rows; althoughmoving long lengths of string iscumbersome, and in windy conditions accuracy can be reduced as the stringblows away or bows in the direction of the wind.

CanesThe planting area can simply be marked out with rods or canes. This is theeasiest and fastest to set up but has the greatest room for error. The plantingdistance between rows andwithin rows can vary greatly.One advantage of thismethod is that it is ideal forachieving an irregularplanting pattern. Conversely itis the worst method forenabling future inter-rowcutting or mechanised weedcontrol.

Scoring spike mounted onto rear of quad.

Ground scored in both directions at 2.1 m spacing at Park Farm,Ibstock. The chessboard pattern allows for subsequent management

in either direction.

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Types of hand plantingIf you have decided to plant the trees yourself, you will need to use the correcttechnique to ensure successful establishment. There are two types of handplanting technique: notch planting and pit planting, as described in Box 4.

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Box 4 I Types of hand planting

Notch plantingThe spade is used to cut a T- or L-shaped slit inthe ground, which is then rolled back and theroots of the tree are inserted. The tree is thenfirmed in.

Pit plantingA hole is dug in the ground, the tree insertedand the soil replaced and firmed in around it.This method is suitable for larger trees or rootsystems.

Advantages A fast process.

DisadvantagesAs this method is designed to be quick, thequality of planting can suffer. In particular, theplanting slit can be too small to accommodatethe roots, so do check.

AdvantagesBetter care of the roots. Ideal for smallerplantings or when tree planters areinexperienced.

DisadvantagesA much slower process.

Type of planting Advantages and disadvantages

The four main stages of notch planting

1. The spade is used to make a first slit in the ground.

2. A second slit is made and levered back.

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General tips for planting Whichever method is selected the following tips are important.

Planting The spade should be fully inserted into the ground and rolled backover the boot (steel toe-capped boots are advisable). This opens the cut and liftsthe soil out of the notch. When the tree is inserted particular attention should bepaid to the roots. It is important to ensure that the tree is planted at the correctdepth: the soil level should be flush with the root collar, i.e. the point on the treewhere the root changes into the shoot.

To find the root collar, rub the tree stem near the root; the root collar isthe point where the colour changes.

Soil After planting, the soil should be firmed back down with the boot heel toensure that no air gaps are left.

Roots The roots should be completely covered by soil to avoid damage to the tree.

Ash and sweet chestnut trees tend to have larger root systems and canbe poorly planted. If you can see the root or if too much of the root collaris exposed, then the planting is poor. Also check other species to monitorquality. Walnut has unusually large root systems so it is important todouble check that they are planted well.

Alignment The trees should be vertical; if they are leaning over when plantedthey will continue to grow at an angle, resulting in poor form and shape, and mayeventually fall over.

3. The tree is placed at the slit apex andpositioned at the correct depth with the

soil level flush with the root collar.

4. The soil is gently firmed in while holding the tree straight.

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SpadeThis is a normal garden spade,better suited to pit planting.

Pole or dibbleAs its name suggests, this isjust a long straight pole usedwhen planting willows andpoplar.

Planting spadeThis is a much narrower spadefavoured by the planting gangs.It is much lighter and fasterand designed to be just theright size for notch plantingsmall bare rooted trees.

Figure 1 I Useful planting tools.

ToolsFigure 1 shows a selection of useful planting tools and explains their suitabilityfor hand planting.

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Protection

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Trees need to be protected from two main threats: weeds and pests.

Weed protectionWeed protection is an essential part of tree care. It is important that this iscarried out immediately after planting and again each year after that (for about3–5 years) in order to reduce competition for water and nutrients from weedsand grasses. The timing will vary depending on the method. There are threepossible methods: mulching, mechanical and chemical; these are described in Box 5. On all but the smallest sites chemical weeding is likely to be the mosteconomic technique. Mechanical or mulching techniques may be preferred onorganic registered sites and may provide less risk to wildlife.

A clear, weed-free circle following spot application of herbicide at Seale Lodge, Overseal.

When to weedMulches should be applied straight after planting and should be inspectedregularly and reapplied as necessary.

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Box 5 I Weed protection methods

MulchesMulching smothers weeds or prevents themfrom germinating. There are two main types ofmulch: natural such as wood or bark chips orman-made such as polythene mats.

Mechanical weedingMechanical weeding is the cutting of vegetation,usually with mowers and strimmers.

Chemical weedingThe guidelines for chemical weeding areconstantly being updated. You arerecommended to refer to up to date sources ofadvice and always check the label on thecontainer to ensure that it is suitable for yoursituation. You can contract out the work; thecontractors then become responsible forensuring that the correct mix and type ofchemicals and rate of application are used.

A wide range of chemicals are currentlyavailable. Broadly speaking these forestherbicides fall into two categories: pre-emergent(also known as residuals) and emergent (mostlyfoliar acting).

Pre-emergent (residuals)Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied prior toplanting or immediately afterwards as thechemical goes into the soil and is then absorbedby the roots. Examples include products basedaround chemicals such as pendimethalin andpropyzamide.

Emergent (mostly foliar acting)Emergent herbicides must be applied after theweeds have had time to grow and establishthemselves. Examples include products basedaround chemicals such as glyphosphate,triclopyr and paraquat.

Advantages Can make chemical treatment unnecessary somay be appropriate on sensitive sites. Can beinstalled by volunteers without specialist trainingor certificates.

DisadvantagesOrganic mulches must be rotted down. Matsmust be fitted and fixed correctly. Loosemulches may require an occasional top-up (orherbicide spray). Expensive and mats can beprone to pest infestation (voles and mice buildtheir nests underneath).

AdvantagesRequires no special skills. Easy to see wherethe work has been carried out and can bephysically rewarding.

DisadvantagesNeeds to be repeated several times a year to betruly effective. Easy to get too close to the treesand damage them (particularly when usingstrimmers).

AdvantagesRelatively cheap. Very effective if appliedproperly and at the correct time.

DisadvantagesRequires knowledge and training in the use of sprays and their application. Most treesrequire protection from sprays. Can damagetrees and the wider environment if usedincorrectly.

Type of weed protection Advantages and disadvantages

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Chemical weeding should be undertaken immediately after planting and thenagain in the spring of each subsequent year for at least 3 years. The time of yearvaries with the substance being applied. February–early April can be an ideal timeto spray while weeds (such as grasses) are just emerging. It may be necessary touse at least two applications within a planting season. Should this be the casethen foliar acting herbicides could be applied from August to September and/orresiduals in December–January. As a general rule a minimum area of 1.2 mdiameter around each tree should be kept weed free from April–September, for3–5 years after planting, or until trees are well established.

Failure to control weeds in the early years will significantly restrict treegrowth for many years to follow. The presence of weeds also makes thetrees more vulnerable to other damage as it is simply harder to see andcontrol pests such as voles and rabbits.

As with planting it is possible to hire professional contractors to carry out this work.For help with invasive weeds, such as ragwort, specialist advice should be sought.

Mechanical spraying of rows with herbicide at Buildings Farm Woods, Hartshorne.

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Protection against animal damageNew trees are very attractive to animals looking foryoung growth to browse. They need protection againstcommon mammals, including deer, rabbits, hares andvoles, and against stock such as sheep. The four mainmethods of protection arefencing, tree shelters,grass cutting and raptorposts, as described in Box6. Individual tree sheltersare needed on a numberof sites. They are veryuseful but it is essentialto install them correctly –see Figure 2.

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ShelterUsed to protect the plant frompest attack and enhancesgrowth by acting as a‘greenhouse’. There is a widerange of products (spirals,sleeves, shelters, mesh guards)so check that the selection iscorrect for each species andthat it provides sufficientprotection.

MellUsed for knocking in thestakes to the required depth.

StakeIf tree shelters are requiredthen a firm stake or cane isneeded to ensure that theshelter stays in place. Stakesshould be driven at least 20 cminto the ground, but this doesvary with the type of shelterand stake being used. If tubesare used, the stake should beinserted so that it is just belowthe level of the shelter(otherwise the tree rubsagainst the stake and can bedamaged).

Figure 2 I Tree protection and tools.

Clear evidence of voledamage: removal of the barkand underlying growth layers

at the base of this poplar tree.

Raptor post – a cost-effective and natural

method for pest controlin establishing woodland.

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Box 6 I Main ways of protecting against animal damage

FencingIt may be necessary to erect some form offencing around the woodland to keep out stocksuch as sheep.

Individual tree protectionDifferent types of individual tree protection areavailable, from spiral guards, sleeves, wraps todouble skinned tubes. All provide a physicalbarrier to prevent mammal damage andenhance growth through a ‘greenhouse’ effect.Individual protection methods have the addedbonus of clearly marking tree locations, offeringa barrier against pests and giving a degree ofprotection to the trees when spraying weeds orcutting unwanted vegetation.

Grass cuttingThis is important in areas of high volepopulations. Voles can enter through rabbitfencing and under tree shelters. By keeping thegrass short between the rows they are deprivedof cover and more easily seen by predatorssuch as kestrels and owls.

Raptor postsEncourages birds of prey into the woodland asthey can perch on the posts and use them asplatforms from which to hunt.

AdvantagesFor larger sites this is significantly cheaper than fitting individual tree guards. Lessobtrusive in the landscape. No broken guards torefit or tidy up when no longer needed. Helps tochannel public access.

DisadvantagesOnce breached the woodland is vulnerable.Fencing does not protect trees against vole damage. Trees can be hard to find ifcompeting vegetation is not kept under control.

AdvantagesOffer greater protection to individual trees.Easier to find young trees. Weed control easierif installed correctly (no other vegetation inside).

DisadvantagesHigh initial cost. Too many tubes can give a‘graveyard’ appearance. Pests can make nestsin tubes. High maintenance cost: ongoingadjustment/removal of damaged guards andstakes. Some protection degrades too slowlywhich can ‘strangle’ and kill the trees. Long-term costs of removal/disposal have to be considered.

AdvantagesHelps pest control. Can make site look ‘neater’,although not necessarily better.

DisadvantagesPlan timing carefully to minimise disruption toground-nesting birds. Cutting can increasecompetition for nutrients and make the sitemore exposed, thereby slowing treeestablishment.

AdvantagesNatural, effective, cheap and quick to install –recommended.

Type of protection Advantages and disadvantages

Voles seem to particularly like ash trees – so if the ash are showingsigns of vole damage then use this as an early indication that they arepresent, pose a threat and need controlling.

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Several aspects are involved in the maintenance of a new woodland. Thefollowing is a useful checklist.• Keeping the trees growing so they establish successfully

– weeding around the trees– general grass control– control of competition

• Replacing dead trees• Ongoing management

Keeping the trees growing

• Weeding around the treesIt is critical that weeding is carried out at theappropriate time (see page 23) otherwise theweeds will out-compete the trees for availablenutrients and water before they becomeestablished. The single largest cause of deadtrees is the lack of adequate weed control.

• Grass controlControlling the grass by cutting makesmanaging the woodland easier but does notdirectly make the trees grow faster orestablish easier – these aspects are more greatly influenced by proper weedingand general maintenance. Indeed, cutting vegetation can encourage it to growback more vigorously, thus increasing the competition for nutrients and water, andslowing tree growth. However, there may be conditions, such as the need tocontrol areas of noxious weeds (although spraying is preferable on smallerpatches), to show paths, glades and open areas and to remove surplus vegetationin order to make weeding easier, where some grass control is necessary. Somewoodland owners like to cut the grass to make the woodland look neater, but thisis largely a matter of personal preference. Two main methods can be used tocontrol grass: mowing and strimming.

Maintenance

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Weed-free rows at Frankies, Alrewas. At this stage nofurther herbicide control is necessary to ensure thatthe trees become established, but ongoing shelter

maintenance will need to be considered.

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Mowing This is the most effective andleast likely to cause damage to the trees. Itis also a lot cheaper, faster and less labourintensive than strimming. A number oftractor-based flails and sit-on mowers are available.

Strimming This is labour intensive and frequently results in damage to the barkat the base of the tree. However, strimming may be the only option if the treesare planted in a pattern that is inaccessible for a machine-based mower.

Here there is a need to consider the benefits of grassland and unplantedground for nature conservation; controlling only selected parts of the grasslandmay be required. Farmland birds have declined seriously over the last 25 years –yet new woodland creates ideal habitat for many farmland birds such as skylark,snipe, curlew, lapwings, partridge and pheasant. Each species has its own birdnesting season (lapwings nest from April to mid August, snipe from mid May tomid July) but as a general rule mowing should be avoided between April to midAugust. When mowing wildlife friendly practices should be used such as settinga high mower height, manoeuvring around nests and, wherever possible, leavingareas unmown.

• Control of competitionThis includes weed and pest control (see pages 23–29). It is vital to determine thecurrent level, and future levels, of pests. This will influence the type of protectionused (e.g. individual guards, fencing) and determine management practices.

The creation of The National Forest is resulting in the expansion of suitable deerhabitat within a wider context of increasing deer numbers. Without adequatecontrol of the population, serious damage is likely to be caused to woodlands,crops and groundflora. Appropriate woodland design (including deer fencing,deer lawns) needs to be considered when planning a new woodland. Cullingdeer offers the potential for income (stalking, game products). Management isalso important to maintain the health of deer populations. The National Forest isencouraging landowners to work through Deer Management Groups to ensurewise and sustainable management.

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Muntjac deer are a threat to woodland and its associated groundflora. Deer numbers are increasing.

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As the woodland area expands and matures, so the grey squirrel will needcontrol. Grey squirrels can seriously damage trees and can compete with andpredate on native fauna, such as dormouse and woodland birds. Trapping orshooting are ways of control, but neighbouring landowners will need to worktogether in order to be truly effective.

Replacing dead treesTree numbers need to be counted in August to assess success rate and calculatenumbers required for restocking (beating-up). When replacing losses, it is best toreplant with the species that are establishing best while considering the overallaim of the woodland. Any natural regeneration can be used to offset the numberof new trees planted.

Ongoing managementThis involves regularly checking the site to monitor the progress of tree growthand looking out for potential problems. The following brief checklist may behelpful.

Spring in a young woodland – time to enjoy and to plan ahead.

• Weed infestation observed and controlled

• Growth rate of grass and othercompeting vegetation monitored

• Fences repaired if damaged or collapsed

• Tree guards repaired, replaced or removed

• Raptor posts in place

• General site maintenance, such aslitter collection and checking signage

• Mowing paths and glades

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Creating new woodland on farmland is both a challenge and an opportunity.Some landowners look at their newly planted woodland and feel a sense ofdisappointment – the trees resemble little green twigs and their neighbour’swheat field looks so tidy. Yet, as the trees develop and the opportunities thatthe woodland provides become more apparent, so these feelings change. Manylandowners comment on how they enjoy seeing the trees grow, the increase inwildlife and how they find something different in their woodland every time theygo through it. The change from a ‘twig’ to a recognisable tree is not, as manypeople think, a slow process. By the time that the trees are 5 years old theycan be 2 metres tall and the character of the woodland is emerging.

Successful woodland creation rests upon thorough planning, implementationand maintenance. There is a lot of work involved. In particular the first 5 yearsare the vital time for tree establishment and weed control – all of which caninfluence the future direction of the woodland. Experience shows that keepingthings simple, robust and sustainable results in greatest success. A considereddesign is paramount to avoid future conflicts, concerns and costs. Maintainingwoodland carefully, and carrying out operations at the right time, is imperative.Not looking after woodland only serves to accumulate problems for the future,so if there are any concerns, advice should be sought.

Like the trees, woodland-related opportunities can grow quickly. In The NationalForest, leisure and tourism are becoming increasingly popular and an attractivesource of income for many landowners. Markets for the timber are developing– existing outlets are rejuvenating and new ones emerging. A woodland’s firsttimber supplies will be the lower grade materials, called thinnings, that will beproduced when the trees are 20 years old. This low-grade material can beconverted into products such as logs, charcoal, rustic furniture or woodchips forequestrian purposes or woodfuel. The development of installations that needwood as a fuel in order to provide heat and/or electricity is a real opportunity,both within the Forest and on a wider, national scale.

Looking ahead

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There is, however, no standard formula for maximising the products that can betaken from the wood. In the past, woodland owners have sought to sell timberas a raw, unfinished commodity. This benefits the buyer, not the grower. In TheNational Forest every encouragement will be given to landowners to thinkdifferently, to add value and to maximise opportunities. So, a maxim should be:

think beyond the trees.

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Organisations

National Forest CompanyBath LaneMoiraSwadlincoteDerbyshire Tel: 01283 551211DE12 6BD www.nationalforest.org

Responsible for creating, through working partnerships and with communityparticipation, a new 200 square mile multi-purpose forest for the nation in theheart of England. The National Forest Company offers advice, grants and supportfor projects that can help contribute towards the creation of the Forest.

Forestry CommissionWillingham RoadMarket RasenLincolnshire Tel: 01673 842644LN8 3RQ www.forestry.gov.uk

Regional office for Forestry Commission advice, grants and forestry policy.

The Game Conservancy TrustFordingbridgeHampshire Tel: 01425 652381SP6 1EF www.gct.org.uk

A charity that promotes for public benefit the conservation of game species,conducts research and advances the education of the public in game biology andconservation. This is also the contact address for:

The British Deer Society Tel: 01425 655434www.bds.org.uk

Sources of further information and advice

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Forest ResearchAlice Holt LodgeFarnhamSurrey Tel: 01420 22255GU10 4LH www.forestry.gov.uk/forest_research

Research, development and surveys relevant to the forest industry in Britain.Information and advice via publications, webpages, consultancies and contracts.Much of the research effort is directed at increasing the environmental and socialbenefits of trees, including biodiversity and recreation, and ensuring integratedland management.

Northmoor TrustLittle WittenhamAbingdonOxfordshire Tel: 01865 407792OX14 4RA www.northmoortrust.co.uk

A charity that promotes wildlife and countryside conservation. It offers specialistexpertise and advice regarding walnut for quality timber production.

Royal Forestry Society102 High StreetTringHertfordshire Tel: 01442 822028HP23 4AF www.rfs.org.uk

The UK’s largest and cosmopolitan educational forestry charity, organising fieldtrips, study tours and publishing the Quarterly Journal of Forestry for its 4,400members.

Small Woods AssociationThe CabinsMalehurst EstateMinsterleyShropshire Tel: 01743 792644SY5 0EQ www.smallwoods.org.uk

Aims to advance education in the conservation of small woodlands. Offersinsurance advice and packages, open days and woodland events.

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Further reading and references

Forestry Commission publications and website

Ellis. J. and the SE England Conservancy Team (2003). So, you own awoodland? Getting to know your woodland and looking after it. Forestry Commission, Cambridge.

Kerr, G. and Williams, H.V. (1999). Woodland creation: experiences from TheNational Forest. Forestry Commission Technical Paper 27. Forestry Commission,Edinburgh.

Morgan, J.L. (1999). Forest tree seedlings – best practice in supply, treatmentand planting. Forestry Commission, Edinburgh.

Rodwell, J. and Patterson, G. (1994). Creating new native woodlands. ForestryCommission Bulletin 112. HMSO, London. Reprinted 2001: Forestry Commission,Edinburgh.

Willoughby, I. and Clay, D. (1996). Herbicides for farm woodlands and shortrotation coppice. Field Book 14. HMSO, London.

Willoughby, I. and Clay, D. (1999). Herbicide update. Technical Paper 28. ForestryCommission, Edinburgh.

Willoughby, I. and Dewar, J. (1995). The use of herbicides in the forest. FieldBook 8. HMSO, London.

Many other useful publications are listed on the Forestry Commission’s website:www.forestry.gov.uk/publications. They can all be obtained from: ForestryCommission Publications, PO Box 25, Wetherby, West Yorkshire LS23 7EW.Tel: 0870 121 4180 [email protected], contact your local Forestry Commission office.

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Other publications

ADAS (2002). Creating native woodlands on farms. Defra, London.

Miles, A. (1999). Silva: the tree in Britain. Ebury Press, London. Beautifully produced and photographed, this coffee table book will inspire andfascinate all woodland owners and users.

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Notes

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Based upon the experiences oflandowners within The National Forest,the toolkit:• considers the advantages of

farm woodland• describes what type of woodland

can be planted• highlights how to plant and

manage woodland• gives handy hints and compares

different techniques• points to other sources of information• fits in a jacket pocket so that it can

be used in the field.

Creating your own farmwoodland can be a

challenging and rewardingexperience. This toolkit

provides, in a concise andpractical style, information

that can be used by alllandowners who areconsidering creating

new woods on farmland.