CRAFT + ESTATE NOTES ON BurgundyE_Burg… · KEY POINTS: 1. Demeter certified Biodynamic estate run...

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CRAFT + ESTATE NOTES ON Burgundy

Transcript of CRAFT + ESTATE NOTES ON BurgundyE_Burg… · KEY POINTS: 1. Demeter certified Biodynamic estate run...

Page 1: CRAFT + ESTATE NOTES ON BurgundyE_Burg… · KEY POINTS: 1. Demeter certified Biodynamic estate run by fifth-generation Frédéric Magnien who persuaded his father, Michel Magnien,

CRAFT + ESTATE NOTES ON

Burgundy

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YONNEDomaine Louis Moreau, Chablis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

CÔTE DE NUITSDomaine Pierre Gelin, Fixin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Domaine Michel Magnien, Morey-Saint-Denis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

CÔTE DE BEAUNEDomaine Tollot-Beaut, Chorey-lès-Beaune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Domaine Xavier Monnot, Meursault . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange, Chassagne-Montrachet . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

CÔTE CHALONNAISEDomaine Laurent Cognard, Buxy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

MÂCONNAISMaison Joseph Burrier, Pouilly-Fuissé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

BEAUJOLAISDomaine Blain Sœur et Frère, Brouilly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

REFERENCESBurgundy Commune Cheat Sheet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Napoleonic Code & The Monopole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

MAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18-19

The Craft + Estate portfolio represents 12 producers from the following appellations in Burgundy. This guide summarizes some essential information and identifies 2-3 core SKUs from each domaine. For a full list of all Burgundy wines offered by Craft + Estate, please see our Portfolio Book at craftandestate.com.

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Domaine Louis Moreau(doh-mehn lu-ee more-oh)

Location: Chablis

Established: 1994

Principals: Louis Moreau (winemaker & owner), Anne Moreau (owner)

Hectares: 50

KEY POINTS:1. 6th generation grower in Chablis. Louis received a degree in oenology

from Fresno State and returned to Chablis with Anne in 1994 to take over half of the Moreau family vineyards once leased to a négociant.

2. Domaine Louis Moreau produces Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. Since 2004, the Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards have been farmed organically and are hand-harvested.

3. Louis seeks clarity of site in each of his wines and all of his decisions in the vineyard and cellar are meant to bring out the personality of each terroir. To wit, all wines are vinified and aged in stainless steel tanks, except for Grand Cru Valmur, which ages in up to 25% new 500-liter French oak.

CORE SKUS:1. Petit Chablis (peh-tee shaa-blee)

2. Chablis AOC (shaa-blee)

3. Chablis 1er Cru Vaulignot (voh-lean-yo)

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Domaine Pierre Gelin(doh-mehn pyehr zhuh-lahn)

Location: Fixin, Côte de Nuits

Established: 1925

Principals: Stéphen and Marie-Odile Gelin (owners), Pierre-Emmanuel Gelin (winemaker & owner)

Hectares: 11.45

KEY POINTS:1. Pierre-Emmanuel is the grandson of Pierre Gelin. He has taken over the

reins from his father and mother, Stéphane and Marie-Odile Gelin, who have run the domaine since 1969. He has an intense interest in organic production and is committed to making pure, honest wines.

2. Fixin is a small, up and coming appellation in the northern Côte de Nuits. Fixin offers one of the last great deals in Côte de Nuits red wines.

3. Domaine Pierre Gelin is the most important and prominent domaine in the appellation with the 1er Cru Les Hervelets holding as well as the only monopole of Fixin, 1er Cru Clos Napoleon (formerly known as aux Cheuzots).

4. The Domaine also has very fine holdings in Gevrey Chambertin including a tiny parcel of Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru.

CORE SKUS:1. Fixin (fee-zahn)

2. Fixin Clos Napoléon 1er Cru (Monopole) (fee-zahn kloh na-poh-lee-ahn prehm-yay crew mono-pol)

3. Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru (zheh-vray shahm-behr-tahn kloh pree-yur prehm-yay crew)

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Domaine Michel Magnien(doh-mehn me-shell man-yen)

Location: Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits

Established: 1967

Principals: Frédéric Magnien (winemaker), Michel Magnien (owner)

Hectares: 18

KEY POINTS: 1. Demeter certified Biodynamic estate run by fifth-generation

Frédéric Magnien who persuaded his father, Michel Magnien, to bottle the family’s wine in 1993. Prior to this, the Magniens sold their grapes to the local cooperative.

2. Holdings are spread across the villages of Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vosne-Romanée, with several premier cru and grand cru vineyards.

3. Frédéric has completely reinvented the house style by partially aging the wines in hand-turned terra cotta jars. He also uses much less oak in general, and no new oak starting with the 2015 vintage.

CORE SKUS:1. Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées

(zheh-vray shahm-behr-than lay soov-ray)

2. Morey-Saint-Denis (more-ay san deh-nee)

3. Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru (more-ay san deh-nee lay sha-foe prehm-yay crew)

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Domaine Jean Grivot(doh-mehn zhahn gree-voh)

Location: Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Established: 1930

Principals: Etienne & Marielle Grivot (owner), Mathilde Grivot (winemaker), Hubert Grivot (vineyard manager)

Hectares: 15.5

KEY POINTS:1. Domaine Jean Grivot is one of the great names in Burgundy – Etienne

Grivot and his wife Marielle Bize (Domaine Simon Bize) took over from Etienne’s father in 1987. Today, their daughter Mathilde is the head winemaker and their son Hubert manages the vineyards.

2. One of the first estates in the Côte d’Or to domaine bottle as a guarantee of authenticity and for quality control.

3. Holdings include the much-lauded premier cru parcels in Beaux Monts and Suchots in Vosne-Romanée along with grand cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot, Echézeaux, and the famed Richebourg.

4. Sustainable approach with minimal chemical intervention, only when necessary. The domaine uses two horses to work their grand cru vineyards, no tractors. The grapes are entirely destemmed and cold-soaked for gentle flavor extraction.

CORE SKUS:1. Vosne-Romanée

(vohn roh-ma-nay)

2. Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Charmois (nwee san zhohrzh leh shar-mwah)

3. Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (kloh duh voo-zhoh grahn crew)

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Domaine Tollot-Beaut(doh-mehn toh-loh-boh)

Location: Chorey-lès-Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Established: 1880

Principals: Jean-Paul Tollot (winemaker), Olivier Tollot (vineyard manager), Natalie Tollot (commercial director)

Hectares: 24

KEY POINTS:1. This domaine has been passed down through the long lineage of the

Tollot family. Today, cousins Nathalie, Jean-Paul, and Oliver manage all aspects of the family business.

2. Considered one of the most important domaines for Côte de Beaune red wines, Domaine Tollot-Beaut has helped elevate the quality and reputation of the appellation of Chorey-lès-Beaune.

3. The wines are structured and firm with minerality that represents the appellations correctly. There is silkiness and finesse in the aromatics of the wines that manifest the winemakers deft hand.

4. The Chorey-lès-Beaune punches above its weight and the 1er crus and grand crus still are values compared with their Côte de Nuits neighbors to the north.

CORE SKUS:1. Chorey-lès-Beaune

(shoh-ray lay bohn)

2. Savigny-lès-Beaune Lavières 1er Cru (sa-vee-nyee-leh-bohn lah-vyehr prehm-yay crew)

3. Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru (bohn breh-sahnd prehm-yay crew)

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Domaine Xavier-Monnot(doh-mehn zav-ee-yay mo-no)

Location: Meursault, Côte de Beaune

Established: 2005

Principal: Xavier Monnot (winemaker & owner)

Hectares: 16.5

KEY POINTS:1. Domaine Xavier Monnot is the former Domaine René Monnier (Xavier’s

grandfather), one of the most important producers in the village of Meursault with history going back to the mid-18th century. Xavier took over and renamed the domaine in 2005 to Domaine Xavier Monnot.

2. Meursault vineyards with vines from 30 to 60 years old. Very low yields with bracing acidity throughout all the wines. Moderate use of oak is present but not a dominant component of the wines.

3. Meursault is the primary story, but Xavier’s pinot noir vineyards and wines are very fine as well. Maranges 1er Cru offers an exceptional value.

CORE SKUS:1. Meursault Les Chevalières

(mehr-so lay sheval-ee-yehr)

2. Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru (mehr-so kloh lay sharm prehm-yay crew)

3. Maranges Clos de la Fussière 1er Cru (ma-ranzh kloh duh la fwee-see-yehr prehm-yay crew)

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Domaine Alain Chavy(doh-mehn a-lan sha-vee)

Location: Puligny-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune

Established: 2003

Principal: Alain Chavy (winemaker & owner)

Hectares: 7

KEY POINTS:1. 4th generation grower in Puligny, Domaine Alain Chavy was created

when Alain and brother Jean-Louis split their father Gerard Chavy’s 14-hectare estate in half.

2. Stylistically produces more restrained wines with high levels of tension and acidity that evolve slowly and show great complexity with age.

3. One of the few underground cellars in Puligny because of the high-water table.

4. Practices “lutte raisonnée” (sustainable approach to winemaking with minimal chemical intervention, only when necessary) with regular plowing for weed control.

CORE SKUS:1. Puligny-Montrachet

(poo-lee-nyee mohn-rah-shay)

2. Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru (poo-lee-nyee mohn-rah-shay lay foh-lah-tyehr)

3. Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains 1er Cru (poo-lee-nyee mohn-rah-shay lay shom gan prehm-yay crew)

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Domaine Blain-Gagnard(doh-mehn blan gan-yar)

Location: Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune

Established: 1980

Principals: Jean-Marc & Claudine Blain (winemaker & owners)

Hectares: 8.3

KEY POINTS:1. Formed when Jean-Marc Blain married Claudine Gagnard, youngest

daughter of Jacques and Marie-Josèphe of Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange. Their holdings include three grands crus: Le Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.

2. Jean-Marc is passionate about the geology of his vineyards and is extremely knowledgeable about the mineral composition of each site. He tailors a variety of organic, biodynamic and lutte raisonnée practices to the unique needs of each vineyard.

3. Jean-Marc uses minimal new oak to retain each wine’s bright fruit and purity of terroir. To add richness, the lees are stirred weekly through late December.

CORE SKUS:1. Chassagne-Montrachet (Blanc)

(shah-san-yuh mohn-rah-shay blanc)

2. Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte 1er Cru (shah-san-yuh mohn-rah-shay lah boo-dree-oht prehm-yay crew)

3. Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru (Blanc) (shah-san-yuh mohn-rah-shay mohr-zhoh prehm-yay crew blanc)

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Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange(doh-mehn gan-yar de-lah-granzh)

Location: Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune

Established: 1959

Principals: Marc-Antonin Blain (winemaker), Marie-Josèphe Delagrange (owner)

Hectares: 3

KEY POINTS:1. Marie-Josèphe, the widow of Jacques Gagnard, continues her husband’s

legacy with the help of her grandson (Marc-Antonin Blain) as winemaker.

2. Vineyards are farmed with environmentally-friendly practices, developed by Jacques and continued by his family.

3. Spontaneous fermentation from wild yeast gives complexity to the wine. Minimal amount of new oak used in aging.

CORE SKUS:1. Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte 1er Cru

(shah-san-yuh mohn-rah-shay lah boo-dree-oht prehm-yay crew)

2. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Rouge) (shah-san-yuh mohn-rah-shay prehm-yay crew roozh)

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Domaine Laurent Cognard(doh-mehn loh-rahn koh-nyar)

Location: Buxy, Côte Chalonnaise

Established: 1997

Principal: Laurent Cognard (winemaker & owner)

Hectares: 7

KEY POINTS:1. Although the Cognard family has been growing grapes for decades,

Laurent Cognard is the first in his family to vinify wines.

2. Sometimes called the “Chablis of the south” because of its old Bajocien and Kimmeridgian soils, the Côte Chalonnaise is quickly building a reputation for delivering high quality wines at exceptional values.

3. To capture the fresh fruit expression and minerality of his wines, Laurent prefers to use a combination of large and small barrels for aging, with minimal new oak.

4. The Montagny wines offer an exceptional quality for price ratio. Laurent also makes a small quantity of stellar Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Paradis rouge.

CORE SKUS:1. Montagny Les Bassets 1er Cru

(mohn-tany lay ba-say prehm-yay crew)

2. Montagny Clos du Vieux Château 1er Cru (mohn-tany kloh doo vee-uh shat-oh prehm-yay crew)

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Maison Joseph Burrier(may-zon joe-sef buh-ree-yay)

Location: Pouilly-Fuissé, Mâconnais

Established: about 1469

Principal: Frédéric-Marc Burrier (winemaker & owner)

Hectares: 43

KEY POINTS:1. Very old and well-known estate in Pouilly-Fuissé, owned by the Burrier

family who have been in the region since the 15th century. They are the largest land owners and producers of “estate-bottled” level wine in Pouilly-Fuissé.

2. Known for producing site specific expressions (single vineyards) of Pouilly-Fuissé. This is counterintuitive to what most people think of the appellation due to over exploitation by large négociants producing rather ubiquitous blended wines.

3. The charismatic Frédéric-Marc Burrier is a huge proponent of the Mâconnais and is raising the bar for the region. He is leading the charge in creating premier cru status for the best climats in Pouilly-Fuissé.

CORE SKUS:1. Château de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuissé

(shat-oh duh bo-ruh-gar pwee-yee fwee-say)

2. Château de Beauregard, Saint-Véran (shat-oh duh bo-ruh-gar san vuh-ron)

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Domaine Blain Sœur et Frère(doh-mehn blan siyr et frare)

Location: Brouilly, Beaujolais

Established: 2014

Principals: Lucie Blain (co-owner), Marc-Antonin Blain (winemaker & co-owner)

Hectares: 5.65

KEY POINTS:1. New project from son, Marc-Antonin, and daughter, Lucie, of Jean-Marc

and Claudine Blain of Domaine Blain-Gagnard. Marc-Antonin also doubles as winemaker at his grandmother’s estate, Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange.

2. Côte de Brouilly is located on higher slopes of the extinct volcano Mont Brouilly within the Brouilly Cru—known for producing wines of more concentration and structure.

3. Average vine age is over 50 years old. The fruit is hand-harvested, then transported in refrigerated trucks to Chassagne-Montrachet where it is vinified.

CORE SKUS:1. Côte de Brouilly Les Jumeaux

(coat-duh-brew-yee lay zhew-moe)

2. Côte de Brouilly Pierre Bleue (coat-duh-brew-yee pee-yehr bluh)

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Burgundy Commune Cheat Sheet

DISTRICT COMMUNE DESCRIPTION

Yonne Chablis Distinctively mineral wines due to cool northerly climate and calcareous Kimmeridgian soil.

Côtes de Nuits Fixin Typified by their robust, tannic, sometimes “sauvage” character. 1er Crus are more finessed.

Gevrey-Chambertin Tends toward concentrated, darker fruits, powerful tannins, and underlying earthiness.

Morey-Saint-Denis Combines the sturdy structure of Gevrey-Chambertin with Chambolle-Musigny perfume.

Chambolle-Musigny Seductive, refined, perfumed red wines that balance richness and elegance on the palate.

Vougeot Full-bodied red wines. The majority of the commune is the grand cru, Clos de Vougeot.

Vosne-Romanée For many, the perfect balance of weight, structure, elegance and longevity in Red Burgundy.

Nuits-Saint-Georges Earthy red wines that are robust and tannic. Can be more Vosne-like depending on location.

Côtes de Beaune Aloxe-Corton Reds with structure, weight, and complexity. A small percentage of white is also grown here.

Chorey-lès-Beaune Red wines that are light and supple with moderate tannins. Red-fruited with bright acidity.

Savigny-lès-Beaune Red fruited with red floral aromas. Ripe, fleshy red fruit on the palate with moderate tannins.

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Burgundy Commune Cheat Sheet continued

DISTRICT COMMUNE DESCRIPTION

Côtes de Beaune Continued

Beaune Reds that strike a middle ground in terms of style. Chardonnay makes up 20% of plantings.

Pommard Exclusively planted to red grapes. Sturdy, full-bodied, and richly-flavored Pinot Noirs.

Volnay The most finessed and elegant red wines of the Côte de Beaune marked by floral aromas.

Saint-Aubin Planted primarily to Chardonnay. Racy and mineral white wines akin to Puligny-Montrachet.

Meursault Rich, full-bodied white Burgundies with notes of butter, hazelnuts, citrus and minerals.

Puligny-Montrachet Greater mineral intensity and firmer structure than Chassagne or Meursault. Linear and sharp.

Chassagne-Montrachet Primarily a white wine village, similar in character to Puligny. Also a good source for red.

Maranges The southernmost communes of the Côte de Beaune. Medium-bodied red wines with charm.

Côtes Chalonnaise Mercurey The best quality reds from the district, known for a rich palate and solid texture.

Montagny Whites with a little more body and slightly higher acidity than other Chalonnaise appellations.

Mâconnais Pouilly-Fuissé Ripe, rich white wines with a mineral backbone thanks to a warmer climate and limestone soils.

Saint-Véran Rich white wines similar to Pouilly-Fuissé if slightly less mineral due to slightly less limestone.

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Napoleonic Code and the Rarity of the MonopoleThe French Revolution (1789-1799) brought about the seizure of ecclesiastical and aristocratic lands. Napoleon set out to reform the French legal system and established The French Civil Code in 1804. Among the reforms, the Napoleonic Code stated that property must be split evenly among heirs. Consequently, estates would be divided equally among inheritors and through succeeding generations, vineyards in Burgundy have splintered into small parcels of ownership. Famously, the 50-hectare Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot, once the sole property of the Catholic church, today has 80 owners. A monopole vineyard, one with a single owner, is therefore rare and unique.

DISTRICT COMMUNE DESCRIPTION

Beaujolais Brouilly More fruit-driven and less floral than many of the other Beaujolais crus with plums and berries.

Côte de Brouilly One of the smallest Crus producing concentrated, structured wines from blue volcanic soils.

Fleurie Located in the heart of the Beaujolais Cru area, pink granite soils lend delicate floral aromas.

Morgon Characterized by their dense and fleshy texture and possess an ability to develop well with time in bottle.

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Page 20: CRAFT + ESTATE NOTES ON BurgundyE_Burg… · KEY POINTS: 1. Demeter certified Biodynamic estate run by fifth-generation Frédéric Magnien who persuaded his father, Michel Magnien,

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