COTTON

FASHION: CIVIL WAR: RAJ.

A WORLD STAPLE

FASHION REVOLUTION “A way of behaving that is temporarily adopted by a

discernable proportion of members of a social group because that chosen behaviour is perceived to be socially appropriate for the time and the situation.”

Sproles

“Fashion was Rank” Parson Woodford’s Diary

“I meet milkmaids on every road with the looks and dress of strand misses”

John Byng 1781

“ ----luxury of dress of our female servants----and many others in inferior situations who think that a well chosen cotton gown shall entitle them to the appellation of young ladies”.

London Magazine 1783

IMPACT OF COTTON CO-OP Bandages Hygiene Curtains and

coverings

No Victorian Primness

End of 18th Century a World of Rapid Fashion Change

A Drapery more suited to the climate of Greece or Italy than an island in the 51st degree of latitude.

In the Directoire period, plain "Grecian-style" fabrics were popular.

Gowns were tubular in shape, with little or no petticoat support. The corset, if worn, was not a factor in determining the silhouette. The natural line of the body was all too apparent through the thin gauze or cotton and linen muslins used. Waistlines were raised to just under the bust, giving the illusion of an elongated slimness. Necklines were low, round or square; sleeves were short and puffed for evening wear, as at left, and either very short or long and fitted for morning dress.

Shawls, such as the one pictured here with a paisley pattern, were a necessary accessory. NORWICH

The World of Jane Austen Chemise style (Almost

Grecian) Could be washed,

dyed, printed High quality and cheap Hygiene Freedom from corsets

(For a time) Fashion no longer just

cloth but a handkerchief or petticoat of the right colour

Around 1817

BEAU BRUMMELL

Cruickshank 1818 (Dandies)

"I remarked one young man, whose handsome person, and most elaborate toilet, led me to conclude he was a first rate personage, and so I doubt not he was; nevertheless, I saw him take from the pocket of his silk waistcoat a lump of tobacco, and daintily deposit it within his cheek". Domestic Manners of the Americans, Fanny Trollope, 1832

Lower Down the Social Order 1780 Coal Heaver John Brown jailed for stealing two

cotton shirts. Local records show thefts off washing lines of cotton goods.

Poorer sorts willing to imitate the rich John Carey (On East India Trade)

Fashion or the alteration of dress is a great promoter of trade because it occasions the expense of clothes before the old ones are worn out” Nicholas Barban (End of 18th Century)

A) Fashion for the few exclusive B) Fashion for the many an engine of growth C) Demand from the working class particularly from

waged Women

SEA ISLAND COTTON IN DEMAND

PATENT No 72X Eli Whitney 1792

NOW ABUNTANTLY PRODUCED

BY MID 19th CENTURY BRITAIN GREW NOT ONE

OUNCE OF COTTON BRITAIN ONLY CONSUMED

10% OF COTTON GOODS

Britain was producing half the world's cotton cloth in giant mills that dotted the valleys and dominated many towns in the north of England.

70% by value of all exports

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT ( 1732-1792)

Credited with the spinning frame — later renamed the water frame following the transition to water power. developed in 1769, and the world's first water-powered cotton mill was built in 1771 at Cromford Derbyshire.

He was knighted in 1786.

CROMFORD MILL DERBYSHIRE

THE BILL GATES OF HIS DAY SELF MADE MAN His first steam powered

mill was opened in Manchester in 1781, although it was not immediately successful. He was knighted in 1786, and died one of the richest men in England in 1792. At the time of his death, his fortune was estimated to be in excess of £500,000.

INDUSTRIAL BRITAIN

TEXTILE SKILLS FROM OPPRESSION

THE WORLDS FIRST GREAT INDUSTRY LOCATED IN A FEW TOWNS IN LANCASHIRE

Huge Movement of People and New Towns and New Wealth Cottonopolis Liverpool changes tack Chemicals Leisure and Pleasure Banking and Insurance Health A value now on work Engels and Cotton Free Trade Economics

Working Women Move from old ‘muscle

industries’ and Domestic Service

Cotton was the Industrial Revolution !!

Move to new lighter industry That Typing Pool Move to Service and Retail

work Move to London and the

south

Brainwork rather than Brawn-work

27282930313233343536

1881

1901

1921

1951

1971

A FEMALE INDUSTRY Changing the old

social order from family based home work.

Industrial Discipline

Machine breaking by ‘Ned Ludd’.

CALICO RIOTS

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

1851- 1861- 1871- 1881- 1891-

Smallpox

Cholera

Typhus

Tuberculosis

Infant Mort.

COTTON IS KING (RUN BY PRINCESSES)

PLATTS to JAPANESE CARS

CIRCUMSTANCES OF GEORGIAN ENGLAND A VERY HARD AGE A VERY YOUNG POPULATION CHRISTIAN SCHOLARS PREACHED

THAT IT WAS INTENDED BY NATURE FEUDALISM NOT MUCH BETTER in

EUROPE OPPORTUNITIES FOR GREAT WEALTH

(Average of 10% return per annum)

THE TRIANGULAR SLAVE TRADE Outward with

manufactures Slave pick-ups on coast Slaves a result of local

wars Danger of Disease Transported to Americas Voyage home with Rum,

Sugar, Indigo, Tobacco, Hard woods, etc.

LIVERPOOL and BRISTOL

LIVERPOOL (White Gold to White Gold)

COMPASSION GRADUALLY TAKES OVER ADAM SMITH ON FREE LABOUR AND MARKETS CHRISTIAN ETHICS: QUAKERS

(METHODISM:WESLEY 1774) JHN NEWTON (FORMER SLAVE OWNER:

(”AMAZING GRACE”) 1772: Slaves brought into UK could not be

forcibly removed. 1783: Slave Ship ‘Zong’ and Insurance) “WILBERFORCE BILL” 1807 Abolishes Trade.

Policed on high seas by the Royal Navy. Wilberforce & Clarkson: 1833 British Subjects

could not own slaves. 750,000 freed in Caribbean

James Henry Hammond,                                    Speech Before the United States Senate,4th March 1858

----would any sane nation make war on cotton?  ---- What would happen if no cotton was furnished for three years? ---- England would topple headlong and carry the whole civilized world with her, save the South.   No, you dare not make war on cotton.   No power on earth dares to make war upon it.   Cotton is king.  

Famine or Grim Reaper? William L Yancey

(Alabama) (Confederate delegate to England)

“To get cotton you must swallow slavery”

The Times ‘Cheaper to keep

Lancashire in Turtles than to plunge into war with the Northern States.

Note Canada

AND THE RESULT ON ENGLAND Outside the city hall stands a statue

of Abraham Lincoln, presented to the citizens of Manchester in 1919. In 1862, 98% of all the finished cotton produced world-wide came from Manchester, UK and 9 out every 10 people living in the city worked in the cotton (or related) industries. Despite the fact that the lifeblood of the city depended almost entirely on the cotton industry, the working people of Manchester came together at the Free Trade Hall on 31st December 1862 to express their support for Abraham Lincoln and the Northern States in their fight to abolish slavery. By supporting the Union under President Lincoln at a time when there was an economic blockade of the Southern States, the Lancashire cotton workers were denied access to raw cotton - the lifeblood of the region - which caused considerable unemployment and severe hardship throughout the cotton industry

Further reform of Representation now had to come.

The genie was out of the bottle Expanding class of artisan

working class Political parties wanted this new

class to shore up their votes. Head off class based Industrial

parties.

1867 REFORM ACT Second Reform Act had greatly expanded

urban electorates, bringing working-class majorities to most towns and especially to the industrial centers. All male householders could vote, regardless of the type of dwelling they occupied, providing they had been in occupancy for at least 12 months.

Redistribution of seats (Ridings)

BUT: A) NO Feckless or Slum Dwellers (Property

Qualification) B) AND for heavens sake no women

EAST INDIA COMPANY (1660 Charter from Elizabeth I)

EAST INDIA DOCK ROAD

Calico, muslin, dungaree, gingham, bandana, cambric, chintz, seersucker, taffeta

Earl Grey Tea bergamot orange

PAISLEY PATTERN Kashmir pattern

Chaldean date palm representing the tree of life. Imported into India by East India Company using Pashmina Goat Wool. After 1808 substitute cloth was made in Paisley Scotland.

INDIAN EMPIRE “THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN”

Flag of The East India Company Was it really

Betsy Ross? Boston Tea Party

From Manila Rope to Vancouver furs.

IMPORTED FROM INDIA From 1613 the Company

imported Indian cloth. Indigo Dye standards

pushing the company into India.

Calico craze brought laws to protect English wool industry (BIW)

1701 Act banning imports of Indian finished cloth. EIC started to import cotton thread which started the English Cotton Industry and hit the woolen industry hard.

The Cotton Revolution Indian Calico – Hand Printed

Started the greatest of all the Industrial Revolution Industries

Huge employer of Women (Note Silk in Japan after Meiji Restoration)

Even working women could afford to buy a cotton dress.

RIOTS No Police, Young

Population, A rough hard society

GEORGIAN TOWN LIFE Jane Austen Literature Elegance Theatre and walks Fashion Tea PS: Terrible

Building

East Indian Company to Indian Empire

Not Just Imports: Capital Goods and Textiles to India

Imperial Policy grew to Protect Trade to India. Maritime trade

routes Around cape and via

Suez Huge shipping

companies 1935 In House of

Commons. Unemployment 1 Day, Government of India Act 6 Weeks

NOTE OIL

STIFF UPPER LIP, SHOES AND CORSETS Lady Curzon’s Evening Dress 1902

Dhoti & Sari ---- Moslem Clothes

CLOTHING AS A REVOLUTIONARY STATEMENT

INDIAN NATIONAL FLAG

COTTON

FASHION: CIVIL WAR: RAJ.